Tag Archives: Lake Huron

Port Huron: Floating Sculpture

3 Oct

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The Michigan chapter of the Antique and Classic Boat Society is hosting the 2018 ACBS International Boat Show on the Black River in Port Huron. Participants began arriving earlier in the week; group activities and tours through the St Clair Flats show people around the Blue Water Region, guides tell visitors about the amazing local boating history and legendary men Christopher Smith and Gar Wood. Boaters, collectors and curious people from the United States and Canada are gathered along the length of River Street Marina, nearly 200 boats have made the trek and are on display for the public. We arrive early in the day, fog hangs low, I hope it burns off soon. A stairway leads us down to the river bank, we start at the 10th Street bridge, looking ahead we can see boats double and triple parked all the way to the Erie Street bridge, crowds of people mingle along the sidewalk, excited visitors wearing orange life jackets line up for a free ride on a classic boat.

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We don’t own a classic boat, it’s the beauty, styling and craftsmanship that brings us here today. Chris Craft outnumbers brands such as Lyman, Century, Higgins, Larson, Gar Wood; each one unique and eye-catching. Mahogany, Teak, chrome, red is a popular interior color, signs are on display listing the brand, size, motor and owner’s name. The humidity is high, the fog beginning to lift as we proceed down the river. Some owners go to great lengths with their displays; Lily has her own lily pads, “Rhubarb” is here all the way from Washington State with lots of pretty little rhubarb details, tables are set, picnic baskets are filled with goodies, antique water skis are ready to go. Boat designs reflect the automobiles of the time; steering wheels, big chrome emblems, dashboards filled with gauges, knobs and levers, tinted windshields, chrome exhaust tips. Engine compartments are open, men on docks stand and stare, fiberglass bodies are designed like automotive fins, wide stripes, bright colors, so cool!

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All shapes and sizes are present; cruisers, runabouts, classic launch and utility. The Higgins is a showstopper in red and white, I love the wrap-around windshield. The two-toned Chris Craft looks sweet with a red interior, I’m liking the wooden boats with the black-painted sides too. Kris’s favorite so far is the 21′ 1961 Chris Craft Continental with a Lincoln 275 hp motor, it’s fabulous in turquoise, gold seat inserts and funky roof supports, it screams 1960’s. A pair of silver boats are tied to a dock, they look like something Batman would drive. I’m surprised how many boats have multiple levels, I can only imagine the view from the top. The woodwork and attention to detail is exceptional, everything was thoughtfully designed, beauty was as important as function. Restoration photos always blow my mind, the time and effort put in can only be described as a labor of love. My favorite photos are the ones of the father and son, brothers, best buddies, arms around each others back, wide grins, standing in front of the finished project.

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Vendors are set up on the grass, they come from all over to sell boat-centric items from jewelry and clothing to wax and ACBS souvenirs. The most adorable boat wagons I’ve ever seen, ok, the only ones I’ve ever seen, are for sale along with rocking horse boats and wooden boat hats, all very clever. We climb up the stairs pausing on the bridge, here we have a great view of the show, a whole different visual perspective of the boats, a gorgeous sight. Following the Black River we end up at the mouth where it joins the St Clair River, boats are filled with passengers coming and going, all enjoying the deep blue water and now sunny sky. Freighters pass in the distance, a little red boat with polka dot curtains looks minuscule in comparison. The old railroad bridge still reaches straight up, it’s become a bit of an icon, a landmark, I hope they never get rid of it.

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Walking back through the show we stop at several boats to get a closer look, some of the cruisers are open to the public to come aboard. This time I notice the steering wheel of Wilgold is on the left like a car. I ask around and learn that boat propellers turn clockwise. Hulls used to be designed in such a way that when there was torque on the prop the right side of the boat would rise up. The steering wheel was put on the right so the weight of the driver would counteract that. Modern hulls don’t have that problem but the design stuck. Most racing boats have the steering wheel on the left.  A trailer contains a Lyman display, photos show the old factory in its glory days in Sandusky OH. We actually stopped in that building last summer. It’s now event space but the owners have kept a bit of the Lyman heritage alive with boats and memorabilia.

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Back at 10th Street we climb the hill towards the parking lot. A group of antique cars are on display for the festivities. Packards, Pierce Arrow, Lincoln, Auburn (a boattail of course) and even a Wills Sainte Clair join the gathering. Ernest Camera Shop has a vehicle here with antique reproduction Kodak advertising on it, looks great. Time to get some food, it has turned into a perfect September day, waterside dining is a must.

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Courses is located in the Culinary Institute of Michigan, part of the Baker College system. Students get world-class training in baking and pastry, culinary arts, food and beverage management. Students learn the art and business side of the food service industry. The building sits on a grassy hill next to the old Thomas Edison Inn, now the Double Tree Hotel, overlooking the St Clair River, Canada and the Blue Water Bridge–how’s that for scenery? Students are the hosts, servers, bartenders and chefs. A tv above the bar allows you to watch the students at work in the kitchen. There’s an open table right in front of the windows, perfect, we are greeted quickly, given menus and water.  Our server arrives with the signature bread basket, takes our order and heads to the kitchen. We satisfy our hunger with pretzel rolls, cranberry bread, bread sticks and sweet muffins topped with blue cheese. The food arrives and we dig in without hesitation. I’m having today’s pasta which is fettuccine with a vodka sauce topped with roasted vegetables, it’s wonderful. Kris has the German stew, tender chunks of meat in a rich smoky sauce with peppers and onions topped with spaetzle, very good. Courses is open Wed-Fri from 11:30 – 2:00 when classes are in session. Check the website before you come, a reservation is never a bad idea. The food is delicious, prices are fair and the view is unbeatable.

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The Thumb: Be Cool…

21 Jul

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It’s in the mid 90’s… again; we scan the weather forecast, looks like the Lake Huron breeze is going to help us out, low 80’s on the thumb coast. We point the car north and aim for the tip of the thumb, in less than 2 hours we’re looking at the beautiful blue waters of Lake Huron. Kris zig zags his way north and west to Caseville Rd, we make a right on 25, this is where the view gets really good. The lake is gorgeous, a kaleidoscope of blues and greens, cars fill cottage driveways, beach-goers have their arms full carrying towels, coolers and floating devices, I swear I can smell Coppertone in the breeze. We follow the shoreline north and slightly east, public parks and beaches are in high demand today. We catch glimpses of the lake between cottages; many look like they were built in the 1950’s, others are new and stately like something from HGTV. We reach Port Austin, park and walk out to the lake. The town is buzzing with tourists, lines form at restaurants and cafes, we have something else in mind.

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A short drive from downtown Port Austin on Grindstone Rd leads us to The Tap Room At Bird Creek Farms. The 40-acre farm grows alfalfa for local dairy farmers, vegetables, strawberries, raspberries, edible flowers; their largest crop is garlic. The large white farmhouse has an inviting wrap-around porch, pretty planter boxes and colorful hanging pots; all of the activity is out back. The covered deck plays host to a corrugated metal bar, mismatched bar stools and tables; a brief menu lists today’s food offerings, a chalkboard lists beverages. Kris is drinking B Nektar’s Zombie Killer, I’m having Blake’s Flannel Mouth; crisp and cool it’s perfect for a day like today. Before long cardboard serving cartons arrive filled with Sausage Gravy Poutine Fries, traditional BBQ Pulled Pork Tacos and Baja Tacos. Everything is very tasty, they even manage to keep the fries crispy under all that yummy gravy. 

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Continuing our lakeside journey we drive on to Grindstone City. In the mid 1800’s two companies operated out of two quarries producing grindstones; by 1888 the population rose to 1500 people. Unable to survive the Great Depression the companies folded. There are two buildings left in the Historic District, one of them is the 3-story grain mill, the other is Rybak’s Ice Cream Store built in 1884 by Capt. A.G. Peer. Visitors sit on benches placed on the deep front porch when we arrive, each has their hands full eating humongous ice cream cones. The building is charming in that very old-fashioned way; floors creek, black and white photos line the walls, antique lights illuminate the space, posts are quite decorative. There are a variety of items for sale, candies, cards, gifts and notions; I’m here for the ice cream. I study the list of Guernsey flavors and choose the mint chocolate chip, it has some kind of dark chocolate cookie chunks in it too, it’s sooo good! I have to eat it quickly before it all melts.

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White Church Gallery is just across the street, I meet Kris inside. The building is a simple white church with red-trimmed Gothic-style windows. Inside purple paint covers the walls, a mix of old and new light fixtures hang from the ceiling; the way the light is coming in right now everything seems to glow. In the front room a gorgeous Art Nouveau cabinet is used to display the works of Michigan fine artists. We wander around on wide-plank floors looking at photography, lovely jewelry, life-like paintings, stained glass and  attractive wooden bowls.

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We are headed south and east on 25 passing through Historic Huron City. This was a lumber town back in the mid 1800’s, several of the original buildings still remain, they are maintained through the Lyon Phelps Foundation. The buildings are open to tour on Saturdays in July and August from 11 am – 4 pm. The Pointe Aux Barque Lighthouse is next. The original lighthouse was constructed of stone taken from the shores of Lake Huron in 1848,the light keepers house was separate from the tower. This area was complete wilderness back then, winters were rough, storms were wicked. The weather and a fire took their toll on the building, a new structure was built in 1857, this time living quarters were attached to the tower. The light is still in use making it one of the oldest, continuously operating lights on the Great Lakes.

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The house and tower have been completely restored, it’s now a museum open to the public and it’s free. Let’s go in. We walk around in the house where the light keeper lived, rooms are tiny, I like the turquoise stove in the kitchen. Artifacts are on display; models of ships, books, newspaper articles, blueprints of the building and a lens. The sleeping quarters are upstairs, there’s an old wood-burning stove to keep the family warm and a pitcher and bowl for washing up. You had to maximize space so rooms were multi-purpose, beds share the space with a sitting area and desk. Back on ground level we learn more about the history of the lighthouse and the people who lived here. 

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Outside we walk around the grounds, in 1875 a Class A lifesaving station was built south of the house, it was the first lifesaving station on the Great Lakes. In 62 years of service the crews performed over 200 rescues. Walking toward Lake Huron I stop and read the signs telling us about shipwrecks and storms, the Great Storm of 1913 also referred to as the “White Hurricane” is legendary, it was a blizzard with hurricane-force winds. It killed 250 people, destroyed 19 ships and stranded 19 others. Today the lake is calm and beautiful, bluish-green water laps at the rocky shore, trees cling to the coast line, wildflowers grip the sandy soil, the water is clear to the bottom. Kris traverses the rocks, you can see how they’ve broken away from the shoreline. Notice their unusual coloring, almost like they’re rusty, moss covers the ones closest to shore, it’s slippery so he has to be careful. Meanwhile I stand on shore looking out into infinity.

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25 leads us through Port Hope and Harbor Beach, the beaches, lake and piers are shrouded in swimsuit clad visitors. We stop in Lexington to get something cold to drink, to our delight the Cadillac House Inn and Tavern is open. The building has been completely renovated back to its 1859 glory. When it opened July 4, 1860, it was such a big deal they celebrated with a parade and a steamer ship brought guests all the way from Detroit for the occasion. The 3-story Italianate structure has never looked better! We enter the building and are greeted with a blast of cold air, the dining room is busy, guests are in a waiting area to be seated. There are empty bar stools at the bar, perfect. Kris orders a craft cocktail with Gin, blueberries and lemon, I’m having a Kalamazoo Stout. I like the simple interior; antique-looking lights, wide moldings and wood beams. It feels good to sit back, cool off and enjoy a drink. It’s nice to see people embracing the old Cadillac House once again. It’s been a full day of Lake Huron adventures, we’ve enjoyed good food, good booze lake breezes and unbeatable views.

PORT HURON: I Cover the Waterfront

5 Jun

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It’s hot! When Mother Nature turns up the heat Port Huron is a great escape. Known as the Maritime Capital of the Great Lakes, Port Huron offers waterfront parks, beaches, a river walk and breathtaking views of Lake Huron on 7 miles of shoreline. We drive straight to the Thomas Edison Parkway, this is where the St. Clair River and Lake Huron meet, the iconic Blue Water Bridge provides a spectacular backdrop for photos as it connects the United States to Canada. We park the car and begin our walk toward the bridge; it’s a gorgeous, sunny day, a cool breeze blows in from the lake. Fishermen have baited their poles and locked them into place, a bell will signal them if there’s activity on the line, a net is kept close by in anticipation of catching a big one. We pass the lightship Huron, once a floating lighthouse, now a museum ship. Power boats wearing fancy paint jobs zip by at speed, there’s some pretty big ones out here today. The girls on the Jet Ski look like they’re having a blast. 

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Signs are posted here and there along the riverwalk filling us in on interesting facts about the area. Did you know Port Huron is located at the 43rd Parallel? That means when I am standing here I am actually closer to the Equator than I am the North Pole. Thomas Edison moved to Port Huron with his family when he was 7 in 1854, the St. Clair River is 39 miles long, oh, and the water that flows through the Great Lakes ends up in the Atlantic Ocean. You can also read about native fish, shipwrecks and sacred grounds. A Coast Guard boat is keeping an eye on all of the activity, a diver down flag bobbing on the river’s surface tells us a scuba diver is looking for sunken treasures below. A train moves slowly down the waterfront track, I bet it just came from the Domtar paper mill. The anchor is from the John S Martin which sank in 1900. A monument dedicated in remembrance of the Great Storm of 1913 stands on the other side of the train tracks; 19 ships and 250 lives were lost in the storm, an additional 50 ships were damaged. On the north end of the parkway is my favorite statue, the Blue Water Maiden, she was moved here in 2010 and greets all who travel the waterway.

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The Midwest Sculpture Initiative (MSI) has put together a sculpture exhibition along the riverwalk for the last 3 years. Ken Thompson, an artist and sculptor himself, formed MSI to provide innovative exhibitions that feature outdoor sculpture throughout the midwest. Let’s take a look. I stand in one place and look out over the open-space gallery, bright colors, geometric shapes,rusty, shiny, large forms and goats fill my sight. In no particular order Kris and I traverse the landscape to see each piece. 6 metal forms are grouped together to form Old Orchard, I think they’re apple trees. Crescent Song has a coyote howling at the moon, I follow the sound of wind chimes to Madame Butterfly, look at all the butterflies gathered around her head, she looks happy.

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Each sculpture has a plaque with the name of the piece, the name of the artist and the price, some names are obvious; Curves, Falling Pyramids, R&B. I like the colors of Red Green Construction, I totally follow the yellow bounce of bouncing ball. A close look at the goats reveals found objects integrated into the sculpture; chains, wrenches, a hood hinge, what do you see? Icarus is a complex piece, a figure hangs by delicate fingers from a bar, unattached wings to the sides, the expression somber. There’s a horse on a rainbow and a whimsical figure named Daphne who has a tree growing from the top of her head, I bet the kids love to play on the Morning Glory Whisper Bench II. If you like sculpture be sure to check out MSI’s website to see other exhibitions in the midwest. If you’re looking for more Michigan art, check out the MI Amazing Art Tour app, available for iPhone and android. 

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We’re having lunch downtown at the Port Huron Office Center building. Rix’s Roof Top restaurant owned and operated by a local family, is located on the 6th floor, this is actually the old Fog Cutter space, ring a bell? The elevator takes us to the top floor, the dining room is surrounded in glass, chandeliers of electric candles glow dimly, ceiling panels are black, the floor is dark, the decor is the panoramic view outside the windows. We’ve arrived during Happy Hour, well drinks are just $2. When the cocktails arrive we place our order, we watch freighters pass while eating warm bread slathered in butter. The burger and steak bites arrive together as we requested, the food is good; steak bites are tender, burger is prepared well. The service was great and the view unbeatable.

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The Exquisite Corpse Coffee House opened in 2012, last December new owners Maggie and Nathaniel took over and have really made the place their own. The space is beautiful, warm, welcoming, the coffee is excellent; they have added baked goods, light sandwiches and bagels to the menu. Art is still in the front part of the space, works are by local artists, a counter in the front window allows patrons a glimpse of the goings-on outside. Choose a seat at the large community table or relax in a comfy chair, play one of the many available board games with friends.

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There’s always something going on in the coffee shop these days; ballroom dancing lessons, yoga, magic shows, music and hypnosis demonstrations.  We’re here for the coffee and the company. We drink our cold brews as we catch up on the latest Port Huron news; they’re making progress on the new City Flats hotel, new businesses are coming soon, Boat Night is July 13, the Port Huron to Mackinac Race is July 14, the International Boat Show is September 14-15. We prefer coming on just an ordinary day, the water is always blue, the breeze is cool, the food is good and the people are friendly.

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Michigan: Thumbin’

4 Jan

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 Since we’re stuck in a deep freeze right now, let us take you back to a warm, sunny September day in Michigan’s thumb…It’s the end of summer, sunshine and warm temperatures suggest otherwise; it’s a perfect day for a road trip in the country. Heading north we drive past picturesque farms; cornstalks have been picked clean, cows and horses graze under a powder blue sky. Located in the northwest region of the thumb, the city of Gagetown has an architectural gem known as the Thumb Octagon Barn. This historic structure was built in 1924 by a Mr James Purdy, when he was traveling out west he had seen similar barns in Iowa, when he arrived home he hired local builders George and John Munro to construct the barn. George and John consulted with the local mathematics teacher to help them with the calculations needed to build an octagon-shaped building. The barn is just beautiful; painted white with deep green roofs, it’s quite a sight! Each of the 8 sides measures 42′ 6″ and is 24′ high, it has a 3-stage roof, the first level is the longest and sports a dormer on each of the 8 sections, each dormer has a 9-lite window, the second level has more windows and a much shorter roof leading to the third level, the cupola, where we have more 9-lite windows; there are 288 individual window panes in the barn roof. Evidence of a lightning rod system still exists.

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Walking toward the barn we notice a tour has just begun, we join the others and are brought up to speed. The interior is quite spectacular in its own octagon way; you can see all the way to the top, sunlight filtering in from all those windows, narrow ladders are built into the structure, boxed-in ducts make up the ventilation system, the circular track over the loft area is for the hay car system. The ground floor of the barn is a poured cement foundation 4′ high that supports a 20′ high timber-framed wall. All of the timbers came from on-site, the land was dense with Tamarack trees, the Munro brothers cut the trees into timbers and used them to build the barn. Mr Purdy owned a lumberyard in Gagetown which provided the rest of the wood. The perimeter of the barn on the lower level is original, the silo is gone, the old tack room is now the welcome center. They have some great photographs of the barn when it was new and what it looked like when the Friends Of The Thumb Octagon Barn took it over. You know the story, the property had gone into foreclosure in 1990, the Michigan DNR bought the property from the bank to be incorporated into the Gagetown State Game Area. The buildings were in such bad shape they likely would have to be demolished. Local citizens stepped in, formed the “Friends” and saved the Purdy family homestead. The DNR allowed the friends to have all of the buildings and 10 acres of land.

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Our guide points out notable parts of the structure, he tells us stories about Mr Purdy and what Gagetown was like in the late 19-teens and 20’s. I won’t bore you with a lot information but I do want to share this: James Purdy joined his father at the Bank of P.C. Purdy and Son at the age of 21, James went on to become the bank president; his bank was 1 of only 2 banks in the state of Michigan to remain solvent during the Great Depression. Afterwards Purdy met with other bankers and formulated a plan where the government would insure the investors money, supported by President Franklin Roosevelt, the FDIC was born. Moving on. The Octagon Barn is now an agricultural museum; artifacts, farm equipment, butter churns, and milk separators are on display, oh look, there’s a crate from Stroh’s Ice Cream. There’s a nice saddle in the stables, the wooden model of the barn is amazing.

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We move on to the house, it was actually built before the barn; the Purdy’s moved into their 15-room, Craftsman-style bungalow in 1922. Our guide takes us through the rooms, the master bedroom is on the first floor and has its own attached bathroom. I really like the natural stone fireplace in the family room, the Craftsman style really shines in this area; thick wooden beams on the ceiling, book cases that flank the fireplace, wide wood frames around the windows, the french doors that lead to the dining room. A showcase holds dozens of Mrs Purdy’s diaries, she documented her life from 1895-1954. Her grandson preserved, then donated them to the “Friends”; they were helpful during the restoration. The kitchen has a built-in ice box and a big blue stove, the pantry holds spices and staples every household needs. Upstairs there are 7 bedrooms, each has a transom window, there is a full unfinished attic. There’s a porch on every side of the house except the south side. The large, covered front porch hosted many dances back in the day. 

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We follow the brick-pillard porte-cochere out to the garage, a blue car bears a Dodge Brothers emblem. Mr Purdy built his own powerhouse on the property, nobody is sure of the exact date. The 12×20 ft ornate brick building has been restored, the 32-volt DC Delco light system allowed the Mr Purdy to be self-reliant by providing electricity for his personal needs, he joined the Detroit Edison grid in 1938. The Purdy’s sold the farm in 1942 and moved back to the city of Gagetown. We are told this is the largest wood-structure octagon barn in the United States, it really is impressive, come up and see it sometime.

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We drive northwest past fields of windmills, acres of crops and yellow patches of ragweed, reaching Caseville in time for a late lunch. Thumb Brewery on Pine Street is the perfect place for dining Al fresco. The patio is full so we grab a table on the porch, having eaten here several times we know what we’re going to order, all I have to do is check out the beer menu. We’re ready when the waitress arrives, she returns quickly with an oatmeal stout for me and a hard cider for Kris… that really hits the spot. The BBQ Chicken flatbread has shredded chicken, bacon, yellow peppers, onions, cheddar-jack and a spicy BBQ sauce on a crisp flatbread–a great combination of flavors. We take our time eating, we have no schedule, it feels good to relax.

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In Michigan you are never far from a big, beautiful body of blue water, in this case it’s the Caseville Harbor on the east shore of Saginaw Bay. The Caseville Pier extends 1800 ft. out into the bay, it’s gorgeous! Boats enter the bay through the mouth of the Pigeon River, there’s a steady stream of boating traffic this afternoon. We walk to the end of the pier. The surface of the water is sparkling like diamonds, wispy clouds paint the sky, fishermen head out to try their luck, sailboats glide by, to the right we see a sandy beach. Are you feeling warmer yet? I will leave you now with that picture in your mind, you’re welcome. 

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Port Sanilac

30 Oct

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Michigan’s thumb coast is often overlooked, underappreciated and ignored by potential tourists residing in southeast Michigan. Meanwhile generations of families have built or maintained cottages along the St. Clair River and Lake Huron, enjoying the deep blue water, numerous beaches, quaint towns, ice cream shops, restaurants and camping… not to mention the availability of bait on nearly every street corner in town. The thumb has its own unique culture. Free Press columnist Rochelle Riley recently gushed to readers about her visit to Marine City; with so much to offer, why don’t more Detroiter’s take advantage of  the close proximity of this water-wonderland? Today we’re headed about mid-way up the thumb coast.

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The Village of Port Sanilac sits snugly on the shores of Lake Huron. About 90 minutes northeast of downtown Detroit, it was originally a lumberjack settlement; the village is home to restaurants, beaches, marinas, the Port Sanilac Lighthouse (1886) and the oldest, continuously operating hardware store in Michigan, Raymond Hardware (since 1850). We’re in town for the Antique Boat Show and Vintage Festival. Old cars, boats and trailers fill Main Street, the harbor and the park. A steady stream of sandal-wearing pedestrians gravitate toward the activity; live music is playing in the distance, the aroma of food fills the air.

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Classic cars are parked on both sides of Main St. I follow Kris’s lead and walk over to the 1961 Dodge Phoenix, this one is white with a fire engine red interior, lots of chrome, glass and push buttons, great upholstery too.  The late 1950’s Galaxie Skyliner has a retractable top, it looks great in powder blue and white. Vehicles span the decades, there’s a beautiful Model A, I like the yellow wire wheels, the 1976 black Trans Am is a limited edition celebrating Pontiac’s 50th Anniversary. The metallic orange paint on the custom Chevy truck glows in the sunlight, the mid-60’s Ford Ranchero is pretty cool too.

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We walk directly down to the water, the lake is gorgeous today, people mill about checking out the antique boats. As usual, I like to read all the names; Chrissy, Alibi, Tight Lines, oh and a boat I think is stunning, Tiger Lily. We’ve been to a lot of these antique boat shows, many of the them have become familiar but I never get tired of looking. Chris Craft seems to rule the water in this area, all of that lovely wood, simple interiors, they truly are classics.

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I have lost Kris for the moment, then I see him on a dock, City Slicker has caught his attention. The long, black off-shore is a Stinger by Chris Craft; graphics in shades of red hug the sides, loop the arch and come to a point on the ‘hood’, not to be left out, bold stripes continue across the white upholstery, slick indeed… We pass more wooden beauties, larger cabin boats are further down in the marina, they have a nice turn out today, the weather is perfect too. Tables are set up by one of the buildings, model boats are on display; I can’t get over the detail! Replicas of boats from African Queen and Jaws get a lot of attention, I think they’re all pretty amazing.

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Members of Tin Can Tourists are set up in Harbor Park, not only are the trailers kitschy-cool, the owners let you go inside–I love that. Airstream, Shasta, Trotwood, just a few of the brands present today. Generally speaking, people who have vintage trailers seem to enjoy all things vintage; bicycles, furnishings, accessories, linens, electronics, they do a great job assembling items and incorporating them into their home-on-wheels.

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Many of the trailers have beautifully restored wood paneling, along with original features people add modern conveniences and their own personal touch. One of my favorites looks like a family room out of a 1950’s home decorating magazine. Mid-Century decor is probably the most prevalent. Theme’s are always popular too, the western one with the desert mural or the 70’s style with shag carpet.  Here’s something different, a newer motor-home (relatively speaking) with the original interior; dark wood, hammered copper tabletops, back splash and accents, stained glass inserts in the cabinet doors. I really like the leaf pattern on the couch and the tropical bedspread. The couple lives in the motor-home full-time, they travel from place to place like the wind.

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We drive over to The Portly Pig for lunch. The restaurant is located in a pretty blue house trimmed in white with orange accents. There’s a definite animal theme inside; meat, of course, is the main attraction. We order at the counter then have a seat near the large front windows, teal-colored walls remind me we’re right off Lake Huron. Large quantities of food arrive, I can’t wait to dig in. The Pork Stack is a generous heap of flavorful pulled pork resting on an amazing cornbread pancake topped with coleslaw and bbq sauce, every forkful is spectacularly delicious. Sharing table space is a side of fries and coleslaw, both excellent. They have full ice cream service too; cones, cups, malts, sundaes, not possible after the lunch we just had..

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At the public beach we park the car and take a walk on the pier, the scalloped edges are unique. It feels like we’re far out into Lake Huron; we watch sailboats and pleasure boats out for a cruise, wooden boats from the show are out enjoying the lake too. Swimmers, sunbathers and beachcombers are caught up in their surroundings, waves are rolling in, sunlight sparkles off the water, it’s like a picture in tourism brochure. You don’t have to drive all day and spend a lot of money for a trip to be a vacation, in Michigan you just follow the water.

Port Huron Pleasures

29 Jul

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It’s HOT! We need to escape the city, Port Huron provides a perfect waterside respite. Today it’s 10 degrees cooler here with the breeze coming off the big lake. We’re at the Vantage Point Farmers Market that takes place along the St. Clair River from May-Oct 29. This Michigan-only market features fresh produce, gourmet products, art and plants, along with a splendid view of the river and Canada. We park at the end of the lot facing the Black River, the promenade begins here; native plants fill elevated beds, a brick fireplace kicks out heat in cooler temperatures, picnic tables provide pedestrians a place to watch the boats go by. There’s a line at the Fresh-cut Fries truck, others have opted for ice cream, a double dip is certainly in order today. 

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We reach the row of white canopy tents, tomatoes, squash, lettuce and cucumbers are plentiful. You can buy Honey, Maple Syrup; Green Barn Winery is giving out samples. Pasta and jars of red sauce mingle with dog treats from Fritz’s Bone Appetite, Gielow pickles and bison meat. There’s a nice variety of produce, baked goods and ready-made foods from Brownwood Farms and Great Lakes. Power boats, jet skis and sailboats are out playing in the water, the Huron Lady II is out for a cruise, freighters come and go to Lake Huron. An announcers voice comes from speakers, he tells us about the current freighter in view, where it’s headed what she’s carrying, how cool! Ears of corn are selling quickly, squash come in a rainbow of colors, cherries are sweet or tart varieties, all sizes and shapes of eggplant are represented. Perennials, trees and flowering shrubs congregate at the far end of the market; the hot pink Phlox is gorgeous, purple cone flower, Shasta daisy and tiger lilies are waiting to be planted in someone’s yard. 

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We dip into the Great Lakes Maritime Center, a little air-conditioning will be nice. People fill tables and chairs arranged along the front windows, some are eating lunch from the deli, others sip on cold drinks, the donuts look delicious. Videos and displays tell stories of the Great Lakes, this is the headquarters for BoatNerd.com, a live underwater camera provides us with a view of whats going on under the St. Clair River. The center documents historical events such as the sinking of the SS Edmund Fitzgerald; near hurricane-force winds and waves up to 35 ft sent the ore-carrying vessel 530 ft down to the bottom of Lake Superior on November 10, 1975, is the song playing in your head now? Mine too. The floor is covered in a wave-patterned carpet, a map showing all of the shipwrecks in the area is inset. Display cases are filled with all things Great Lakes; ship models, rocks, diving equipment and memorabilia.

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Back outside we take a leisurely stroll on the Blue Water River Walk. This entire stretch of shoreline was given to the St. Clair Community Foundation by local philanthropists James and Suzanne Acheson in 2011. Since that time the 1-mile stretch of land has been cleaned up and transformed into a public park where native plants flourish and a naturalized shoreline welcomes visitors. We are on the pedestrian trail, the old railroad ferry dock once used to help transport goods back and forth to Sarnia Ontario Canada in the early 1900’s has been restored and turned into an observation deck. We look out over deep blue water, a cabin boat is out having fun, another freighter makes its way to Lake Huron, a few white, puffy, clouds are clustered together in an otherwise clear sky. The shoreline is dotted with tiny beaches and secluded landings, one is at lake level, I stand still and let the waves wash over my feet, cooling me off. Butterflies draw nectar from flowers, shrubs bear groups of fuzzy red berries. Placards teach the public about the structures, plants and wildlife found in the St. Clair River ecosystem. I had no idea mink lived here…

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The fishing pier is just south of the US Navy ship Grayfox, we have the pier to ourselves, the panoramic view is stunning, relaxing. Public art shows up in the form of a 7-foot-tall iron horse named Sugar, a 1,000 lb metal sturgeon named Stella Clair, a mural featuring native fish covers the River Rats Club building. Black-eyed Susan’s, Queen Anne’s Lace and milkweed stand in the foreground of the river. Wetland restoration is ongoing and currently fenced off; the ducks don’t seem to mind. This is part of the Bridge to Bay Trail System which continues to grow and improve every year. 

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My growling stomach reminds me it’s time to eat. We drive over to Freighters Eatery and Taproom located in the Double Tree Hotel (formerly Thomas Edison Inn) on the riverfront. The large restaurant has a perfect view of the Blue Water Bridge, St. Clair River and the entry into Lake Huron, in other words, it’s perfect.  We sit by the window, the menu is filled with locally sourced items, they use Michigan vendors and suppliers whenever possible. Appropriately so, a freighter passes as we wait for our meal, diners take photos from the patio, it’s a big deal for someone who’s never seen it before. Our Mesa Chopped Salad arrives; crisp greens are tossed in chipotle ranch dressing, blackened chicken, grilled sweet corn, peppers and fried garbanzo beans, tortilla strips join the mix, yum! We also have a side of salt and pepper fries, they’re really tasty. When we’re finished we head out to the boardwalk; from under the bridge we watch cars zoom by going from one country to another, sailboats fill the Lake Huron horizon.

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Back downtown on Quay St. The Alley Room has just opened for the evening, a cocktail sounds good about now. Although the same owner has had the place for years, it has undergone several incarnations. Currently the menu consists of pizza, sliders and a good meatball sandwich (so I’ve been told). The attractive, rustic interior features an antique tin ceiling, brick walls, wood floors. We sit at the bar, the Moscow Mule is on special, sounds good to me, Kris is in the mood for an Old Fashion, they don’t have all the ingredients so he makes do with what they have. A couple of friends arrive unexpectedly, what a nice surprise; we strike up a lively conversation as we finish off our cocktails. Outside, the sun is low in the sky, the temperature has dropped, giving us more relief. We’re lucky to be surrounded by such beautiful water here in Michigan, Port Huron is less than 70 miles from Detroit making it a quick and easy escape from big city to sandy beaches. There’s only so much summer left, what are you waiting for?

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PORT HURON: Boat Night

21 Jul

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It’s the eve of the 91st running of the Bayview Yacht Club Port Huron to Mackinac Race, Port Huron is wall to wall people, the banks of the Black River are thick with boats, a forest of tall masts pierce the sky; the excitement is palpable. 250 teams have entered the race sponsored by Bell’s Beer, they will sail either a 259 nm Cove Island Course–for faster, bigger boats, or a 204 nm Shore Course–for all others, taking them from lower Lake Huron to Mackinac Island. Bayview Yacht Club is celebrating 100 years of sailing in 2015. What began as a 3-story tin boat house in 1915 on Motor Boat Lane is now 1,000 members strong, occupying a 5,000 sq ft clubhouse on the Detroit River near the mouth of Lake St Clair.

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We park our car on Military Street and walk to the Black River, downtown is swarming with pedestrians, walkways on both sides of the river are overrun with activity. We cross the drawbridge and head down to the water, it’s an amazing scene; the sky is powder blue, a few puffy, white clouds hang low, a steady procession of boats travel up and down the river,  huge sailboats are anchored two deep parallel to the walkways, everyone seems to know one another. We walk to the farthest drawbridge then slowly, taking our time, walk back, observing the bash that is Boat Night.

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Dockside picnic tables are crowded with beer cans, bottles of wine and tasty looking edibles, leashed dogs seem unfazed by all of the activity. Crews arrive with sleeping bags, back packs and supplies, they talk strategies and routes getting ready for the morning start, Bell’s decals cling to the bow of participating boats. We traverse the wide sidewalk passing live performers, family BBQ’s and restaurants and bars filled to capacity—everyone is having a good time. Lovely condos line the south side of the river seizing the best view of all. Boats have arrived from Wisconsin, Illinois, Florida, South Carolina, Chicago and Detroit, many are personalized, one has a giant Detroit Lions decal. Flags from sister yacht clubs cling to the rigging, colorful spinnakers flutter in the breeze. The old Michigan National Bank building (aka Bank of America) hovers in the background, come August it will begin its transition into a City Flats Hotel.

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Back on street level, the main drag through downtown is closed to vehicles, the area is teeming with visitors and vendors, games and activities. Human mannequins grab our attention, we make our way to the live mannequin contest sponsored by Salon Pizazz. Talented stylists have created exotic, make-believe characters, extravagant hairdo’s, whimsical, eccentric costumes all combine into surreal mannequins; my two favorites were the young ladies who looked like fire and ice–very cool! We direct our steps toward the lake, traffic is still heavy on the river; vintage wood boats, pontoons and a pilot-boat all join in the fun. Each restaurant we pass has a line, doors and windows are open to the street, smiling patrons are wedged inside. As we near the lake we remember a little out-of-the-way place, riverside.

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Vinomondo Wine Bar and Brew Pub is a nice place to catch a light meal, a glass of wine or pint of beer while relaxing waterside. We are happy to see open tables available on the deck, we choose one with a view of the Black River and Lake Huron—perfect! We order as the sun goes down, an orchestra plays Big Band standards under a canopy nearby, Kris sips on Kiwi Pear wine, tables fill up quickly. As darkness arrives so does our dinner, the panini is made with turkey, brie and slices of Granny Smith apples, the bread is crisp but tender, the brie warm and gooey. Our flatbread pizza is covered with a sun-dried tomato bruschetta, prosciutto, tiny pepperoni, yellow pepper rings and mozzarella, a tasty combo. Looking out, city lights dance on the water’s surface, clouds create interesting patterns in the night sky, lights from carnival rides glow in the distance. When we finally get up to leave our table is snatched quickly, the inside of the restaurant is empty, every patron is on the deck on this spectacular July night. 

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Back on Military Street we stop in at The Raven before hitting the road; a combination cafe and coffeehouse that also serves cocktails. The interior is a wonderful combination of wood, wrought iron, stained glass fixtures, book shelves, photographs and movie posters. A musician is singing on the balcony above the door, the tune sounds straight from the Delta. Kris orders an iced coffee and a brownie, I can’t resist the Rioja on the wine list. As we sit and listen much of the talk is centered around the boat race, this is the biggest night of the year for Port Huron and the city is a wonderful host.

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Bay City: Time Travel…

14 Oct

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Today we are about an hour and a half north of metro Detroit in the waterside town of Bay City. The annual River Of Time event is taking place this weekend, we’re here to check it out. For three days re-enactors from around the Midwest show up dressed in period costumes to live as people did in earlier times. Spanning 300 years of history, period camps are set up along the bank of the Saginaw River in Veteran’s Memorial Park creating a time-line history. From the Native Americans through the Revolutionary War to Vietnam, we get a glimpse of both everyday life and American history through music, skill demonstrations, church services and skirmishes.

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Making our way to the west side of the river, we park the car on a grassy expanse and walk to the park. The first thing I notice is the amount of white tents scattered throughout, I pick up the scent of logs burning on an open fire, a woman in a hoop dress passes by, a man in a Civil War uniform seems in a hurry to get somewhere; so much going on. Individual camps are roped off, there are no signs or placards with descriptions of the camp or era it represents, just men, women and children going about their business like they would have at the time. It is noon, almost time for the mid-day meal; fires dance under cast iron cookware, steam rises from pots, tables are being set. A costumed player is telling stories to folks gathered around, I see what appears to be ancient medical instruments spread out on a table, by the looks on people’s faces, I’m not so sure I want to hear what he’s saying. A group of men representing the 1st New York Regiment wear Revolutionary War costumes, it’s nearly 80 degrees outside but they don’t seem to mind. An asphalt path leads us through the park, the river is on one side, grass on the other; camps are spread out on both sides. On the left, a huge variety of food covers a table, Indians with face paint and mohawks look anxious to dig in. Every camp has something cooking; kettles rest on metal grates, bread bakes in a clay oven, a deep, oversize cast iron pot is stuffed with simmering meat, potatoes and vegetables, all eyes are focused on the stew.

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A young man stops among the crowd and begins to play his fiddle, a gentleman smoking a pipe taps his foot to the music, a woman in a rocking chair carves something out of bone. The Folk Music Society of Midland plays under a canopy along the Saginaw River, Weeping Willows dot the shoreline, the water is as smooth as glass, the sky flip-flops between powder blue and a grouchy gray. From their hats to their shoes, soldiers look so formal, everything appears authentic, right down to the buckles. A metal worker has built a makeshift chimney, roaring flames heat wrought iron that will be formed into hooks and tools, we all watch with fascination as he works. Many have sat down to take their meal, others have finished and trade lively conversation around the table. The World War I, II and Vietnam camps are expansive; here the tents are green, military vehicles are randomly parked, bed rolls, rifles, helmets and rations are displayed. Off to the side a man is sitting in a foxhole reading a book, he seems happy enough…. Soldiers answer questions, a group of men sporting different uniforms have pulled up chairs and share stories. 

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One thing that becomes clear very early in our visit is how simple, yet difficult, life was. Before there was refrigeration, running water, electricity for goodness sakes; food was prepared as it was needed, washing was done in the river or in a large bowl that was filled with by a pitcher, clothes were cleaned in a tub on a washboard and hung to dry, you had to hunt for meat, grow your vegetables; this is big news to the current generation. The Trombley House is open today, the oldest surviving building in Bay City, it was built about 1836. A crowd has gathered near the Log Cabin, on the porch Abe Lincoln is about to deliver the Gettysburg Address, how cool is that? The Fife and Drum Corps is approaching; fifers, drummers and flag bearers perform authentic songs written before 1800, Sutler’s Row offers goods for sale: animal pelts, antlers, beads, pouches and the like. We continue to zig zag through time; bacon cooks over an open flame, a woman spins wool into yarn, a young girl plays the bagpipes, visitors are walking to the cannon….

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We follow the crowd to find the cannon pointed toward the river, men work together stuffing something down the barrel, when they cover their ears, we cover ours; I jump about a foot in the air when it goes off, Kris just laughs….. I’m glad that’s over. We take a stroll on the River Walk Pier, from here we can see all the activity on both sides of the river, there’s a lot of building happening on the east side, new construction too. As we get back to the park a Colonial skirmish is taking place, it’s very intense, one does not want to get in the way. We move in the opposite direction for one last look around. They say this is Michigan’s largest living history encampment, it is definitely unique, from the people to the cannon and canoe, the costumes, housewares, instruments and campsites, indeed, it is history come alive.

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The sky has returned to a lovely shade of blue, walking back to the car we notice the elevated River Walk, looks like fun. An elegant white crane stands in the shallow water, ducks paddle along at a leisurely pace, the boardwalk leads us to Middle Ground Island. A party is taking place under the pavilion, friends gather on benches in the park, we admire the panoramic view. We make quick work of the walk back, it’s time to eat!

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Kris and I are both fond of restaurants that have been part of a city for generations; Krzysiak’s House on Michigan Ave is just that sort of place. Started in 1979 by husband and wife team Don and Lois they have been serving authentic Polish and traditional American cuisine for decades. So popular, the building has been expanded 5 times; their website states they serve 700-900 customers per day, wow! Walking in the front door we find ourselves in a little retail space selling an assortment of items, the hostess greets us and takes us to a table in the dining section. Krzysiak’s is known for their outstanding buffet, today is Sunday so it is filled with Polish specialties in addition to an assortment of salads, soups, side dishes, desserts; it’s really quite remarkable! As tempting as the buffet is, we order off the menu instead.
As we wait for our meal to arrive we take a look around; hand painted murals cover most walls, one features family members, the cathedral wall reflects photographs taken in Poland, the scenery is quite lovely. Everywhere I look photos and mementos cover the walls, pretty stained-glass windows made specially for Krzysiak’s are aglow in the sunlight; it is apparent the heart and soul of the family has gone into the restaurant. I dig into a bowl of chicken noodle soup, the homemade noodles are outstanding. Huge platters of food follow; the Polish plate comes with Golabki, Pierogi, Polish potatoes (fried with cabbage and other tasty things), Polish sausage and Kraut, you could feed a whole family from this plate alone! The potato pancakes are large and delightful, sour cream is the perfect addition. The food is authentic, made from scratch, hearty and delicious. The experience of eating here is a treat.

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Before we head south we take a drive through downtown, Bay City is definitely on the move, new stuff is happening all over town. We park on Saginaw St and notice a new artisan cheese shop has opened. Artigiano sells cheese, wine and craft beer, not to mention specialty items and condiments from local businesses. The shop adds an urban flair to general feel of Saginaw St, very nice. Across the street we stop in at Brewtopia to get a couple of coffees for the road. Sticking with the urban flair, the shop has exposed brick and a white painted tin ceiling, large windows give it a light and airy feel. Coffee beans are roasted in house, they provide a nice selection of teas, fruit smoothies, muffins, cookies and desserts. At the counter we meet the new owners, friendly and ambitious they are excited about the positive momentum in Bay City; so are we.

Roadtrip: Oh, Canada!

4 Sep

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When you think of long sandy beaches, perfect blue water, bikini’s and ice cream stands, Canada may not be the first place that comes to mind, after today it will. We are off in search of sun, water and relaxation, our destination: the western shores of Ontario, Canada. Never ones to miss the opportunity for a scenic drive, our journey begins in Algonac MI, it is here we board the Walpole-Algonac Ferry. Relieved to find only a few cars ahead of us, we are immediately guided onto the ferry, with the engine off and windows down we sit back and enjoy the ride. This ferry line has been crossing the St Clair River for over 100 years, today $7.00 buys us a ride to Canada. After pulling onto shore each car must pass through customs; be sure and have your enhanced driver’s license or passport ready. Once on Walpole Island, Kris has a regular route he follows, within minutes we are following the shoreline of the St Clair River, the view is breathtaking, there are no obstructions, just turquoise water as far as the eye can see. We pass through the tiny towns of Port Lambton, Sombra and Corunna, never without a river view, houses and businesses are situated on the other side of the road. Sarnia is the largest city of the bunch, we stop in at the visitors center to exchange our money and pick up a current Ontario map; there is a wealth if great tourist information, I always end up with an armload of travel guides, maps and brochures! Kris points the car northeast on highway 7, our vacation has just begun.

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The drive is easy; not a lot of traffic and good scenery, our first stop is Ipperwash Beach. Unlike any other beach I’ve ever been to, here cars are as much a part of the landscape as people. We follow the road right down to the beach, make a left turn and drive onto the hard-packed sand. Vans and sport utilities are backed up to the shoreline, making easy work of unloading coolers, folding chairs and umbrellas. It is still early in the day, so it is not crowded yet; children and dogs run up and down the sun drenched beach, sunbathers are stretched out on blankets. The thing that may surprise you is the amount of vintage tractors parked on the sand, Farmall seems to be the favorite brand. Used by locals as tow vehicles, they trailer their boats and jet skis to the lake; it’s really quite a sight! After driving to the end and back we jump on Hwy 21 and on to Grand Bend.

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The day is becoming hot and hazy, we take the left off of 21 onto Grand Bend’s Main Street, if you did not know better, you’d think you were somewhere on the Atlantic coast. Both sides of the street are lined with shops selling swimwear, sunglasses, flip-flops and souvenir t-shirts. After snatching one of the last open parking spaces, we make our way toward Lake Huron. We pass by stands selling ice cream and fries, racks of sundresses and cover-ups are out on the sidewalk, cafe tables are full of summer tourists. At last we reach the beach, the view is picture perfect. Folks have been coming here since the 1800’s, many Americans own cottages in the area. Recently, the city has spent a bunch of money on landscaping, making Grand Bend even more tourist-friendly; a new boardwalk lines the wide sandy beach, new street lamps and stone sidewalks have been installed. Picnic tables and benches rest in the warm sand, patches of dune grass are protected by small wood fences. The “beach house” is home to washrooms, refreshments and a viewing deck that provides a spectacular overlook of the lake. We climb the concrete stairs to the top, the sun sparkles off the waves as if someone has thrown glitter across the surface, from this height depth changes of the lake are clearly visible. Below, small children are building sand castles while the older kids play beach volleyball, in the distance a boat pulling a parasail streaks by, it is all fun in the sun.

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Time for lunch; the Growling Gator restaurant is located beachside, we score a table on the patio with a panoramic view, it doesn’t get much better than this! The menu has a wide variety of items, our waitress is friendly and attentive even though the place is swamped. There is plenty of activity to watch while we wait for our meal to arrive, I hear laughter drift over as kids play in the splash park, groups of bikini-clad girls walk out to the lake. Our meal arrives, our attention now focused on the food in front of us; a crispy green salad with the house dressing and a Canadian Club sandwich made with a chicken breast and peameal bacon are simply delicious and consumed far too quickly. We stroll through town on the way back to the car, stopping in to shops, enjoying the reprieve the air conditioning offers. Main Street is now lined with cars, our parking space is filled as soon as we pull out.

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In under a half hour we arrive in the quaint village of Bayfield. The town is one of those sleepy little villages that just ooze charm; weeping willows sway lazily in the gentle summer breeze, patios, decks and porches provide visitors with food, drink and respite. Buildings that house shops look timeless, as if they were planted here long ago and have grown to be part of the natural landscape. We wander in and out of shops selling items that are whimsical and artistic, passing by planters stuffed with bright green sweet potato vines, petunias and lobelia, the sweet scent of flowers carried on the gentle wind, there is a short line of people ordering ice cream cones, so many flavors to choose from. Near the end of the street we pop into a cute little bakery called The Pink Flamingo, a glass display case is filled with tempting homemade treats; Kris and I have an iced coffee and something chocolaty and delicious!

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Kryart Studio has taken an old barn and created a psychedelic masterpiece, art flows from the outdoors to the indoors, an artist is busy at work in the yard. Further on brightly colored baskets lean against the front of a store, we browse the pottery shop, then the outdoor sculptures next door. My favorite of the galleries is JMR Art Gallery, home of the Ontario artist. The selection of pieces range from glass and photography to paintings and original jewelry made by the owner herself. Here we discover an artist by the name of Catherine Shane, her vibrantly colored paintings immediately grab our attention, her work is imaginative and fun, depicting fairy-tale like places that I’d love to visit. This is the last shop open this evening, most close around 5 pm, even on weekends. We take a short drive over to the park for one last look at the lake before heading inland. The sun is starting to set, the last of the sunbathers have gone home for the night. A wooden staircase takes us down the steep bluff, past wildflowers in bloom to the empty beach below. It is quiet, peaceful, it’s just the water and us and a few other folks, enjoying the moment.

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The day has passed quickly, we are staying in London, Ontario for the next two nights, time to get a move on. Darkness has fallen, nothing left to see, so Kris gets on Hwy 4 and takes us into London. We have been coming to this city for over 20 years now, though things have changed, businesses have come and gone, one of our favorite places to eat still sits on Albert St downtown; Fellini Koolini’s. With the car parked on the street, we make our way inside, it is late, but they are still serving dinner. After making a quick decision we nibble on homemade breadsticks from a jar on the table, they are even better dipped in the seasoned olive oil, the table is covered in brown paper, Italian music, or songs sung by Italians, plays quietly in the background. I look around to see if anything is different since our last visit; Chianti bottles are still strung from the ceiling, a photo of Dean Martin hangs on a wall adjacent to a copy of the Mona Lisa, it’s still the same. Our meal arrives; the Mediterranean salad is wonderful, I love the combination of artichokes, pine nuts and chevre cheese, the dressing perfectly compliments the vegetables. The Quattro Formaggio pizza has a crispy thin crust, the mix of cheeses salty and flavorful, supremely yummy! We chit chat a bit with our waiter, he gives us a few ideas of places to check out over the next two days, I can hardly wait!

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PORT HURON: Cool Old Stuff….

27 Sep

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There seems to be no end to the fascinating history of Detroit and Michigan, this place has done it all! In the early days we built trains, ships and stoves, we made cigars, soda pop and ice cream sundaes; of course, we are best known for putting the world on wheels. North of Detroit, in the small town of Algonac, the legendary Chris-Craft boats were born. In the early days, beginning in 1917, Chris Smith teamed up with Gar Wood;  Smith built ’em, Wood drove ’em,  they went on to win five straight Gold Cups from 1917 to 1921 before parting to start their own companies. In 1922 the Chris Smith & Sons boat company was formed, by 1927 Chris-Craft was recognized as the largest builder of mahogany constructed power boats……..which leads me to today…..Every September the Michigan Antique and Classic Boat Society hosts the Blue Water Antique and Classic Boat Show at the River Street Marina on the Black River in downtown Port Huron. We are not boaters ourselves; terms like aft, bulkhead, cuddy, keel and gunwale mean absolutely nothing. But, given the opportunity to get a look at a group of pristine antique wooden boats, we’ll be there!

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It was a crisp Saturday morning, the weather forecast was not exactly boat friendly; windy, cool and rainy. Always enjoying a trip to Port Huron anyway, we took the ride up the water to check out the boats. We parked at the marina and were excited to see a fair amount of boats tied up at the docks. On the grass, a display of vintage outboard motors was set up; Sea King Midget, Chris Craft Commander and Mercury, some for sale, some just to look at. I love the way they even made the motors decorative back then, great lettering, pretty colors, they’re cool!   The boats themselves are works of art, seriously, have you ever seen a completely restored Chris-Craft Runabout? The mahogany is refinished perfectly, chrome railings and nameplates gleam in the sunlight, the upholstery flawless. Initially we walked along the sidewalk, getting an overall glimpse at each one, on the way back we took the time to see each individually by walking out on the dock.  The detail is amazing;chrome and teak make beautiful accents, dashboards are clustered with all sorts of gauges. Each owner adds their own personal touch with distinct colors and furnishings. The crafts ranged from the 1920’s to the 60’s, I couldn’t get over how modern the models from the 20’s and 30’s looked. The combination of wood and chrome is unbeatable whether a Runabout, Capri or Cruiser, they are gorgeous!

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Luckily, the rain held off, which meant we could have lunch on the roof-top deck at the Vintage Tavern. This charming brick building has been completely renovated; brick walls are left exposed, dark wood adds rich accents to the decor, each floor has its own fireplace. We walked through the cozy main dining room to the back stairway which led us to the rooftop. Straight out you can see water in the distance, off to the side is a view of the city, clear lights are strung across the top of the dining area; it must be beautiful at night.  The menu offers a little bit of everything; looking for a light lunch we decided on the Tuscan Dipping oil with a loaf of French bread and the gourmet cheese and cracker platter. Kris commented to our waitress that he was surprised to see dill pickle soup on the menu, she raved about it and was nice enough to bring us a sample, it’s really good! It had turned into a lovely afternoon; we sat in the sun and leisurely dined on marinated mozzarella, Italian salami, fresh fruit, nuts and crusty french bread. When we had our fill we descended the staircase and on the way down noticed many of the details we had missed the first time; framed ads of local breweries from back in the day, stained glass windows and the wine barrel that hangs precariously above the front door. It’s such a nice place we’d like to come back for dinner some time.

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For as many times as we have been to Port Huron this summer, our visits have never coincided with the open hours of the Knowltons Ice Museum of North America…until today that is. I know, an ice museum? YES, an ice museum, and what a great museum it is! We had no idea what to expect, which made it even more fun to discover. We came in the door, paid our admission and sat down to a short movie that summed up how the ice industry began. It’s funny how we take things for granted; we’ve all heard of ice boxes and the ice man, but maybe never stopped to think of where the ice came from. In the 1800’s and early 1900’s men would actually cut blocks of ice from frozen lakes and ponds, the ice would then be stored in ice houses to be used in the sweltering summer months; this was known as natural ice. The man who owns the museum is the founder of the Party Time Ice Company, he has a passion for collecting anything to do with ice; what better way to show off your collection than to open it up to the public. The museum is awesome; he has everything that was used to cut and harvest the ice: saws, axes, picks and chippers. There are the items used to store ice in the home: ice boxes, buckets and coolers, from plain to ornate he has loads of examples. There is an old-fashioned kitchen exhibit, it was no easy task being a housewife in those days; everything was done manually. The owner was a milkman at one time and has an excellent array of antique milk bottles. A glass cabinet is devoted to old, miniature ice wagons and trucks; there are ice crushers and makers, even horse-drawn ice wagons. The collection is huge! One section is dedicated to Diana’s Sweet Shop; opened in 1926 it was a  fixture in the city that sadly closed several years back. This was the place locals and visitors went for a meal or just dessert. There are photos of the interior, it was gorgeous, items from the restaurant include a Vernor’s dispenser, signage, uniforms and more. Someone actually bought the interior of the shop and moved it down to Nashville TN, so Diana’s lives on! Next time we go to the Music City, we will have to check it out.  I’m so glad we finally got a chance to visit the museum, make a plan to see it yourself.

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