Tag Archives: Rochester

The Burbs: Natural History…

17 Jun

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Sometimes you just want to be out in nature; fortunately the metro area has plenty of options. Today we’ll enjoy the beauty of nature and explore some amazing local history in the Shelby Twp, Rochester area. Our journey begins at River Bends Park, covering nearly 800 acres the park offers ball fields, soccer fields, trails for walking, hiking and biking, an archery range and rental pavilions. Let’s start at the Burgess-Shadbush Nature Center. Just outside the building we find a beautiful garden, I can’t resist gardens. A sign tells us this section is filled with deer-resistant plants, I find that a hopeful statement… Barberry shrubs are vibrant colors, several stunning varieties of Iris are in bloom, the purple Columbine are so pretty. Inside a gated area we find an attractive combination of annuals and perennials, I’ve never seen a smoke flower before, poppies are ready to burst open, white anemone, pink hardy geraniums bloom on this late spring day.

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Inside the nature center a large stone fireplace, picture windows overlooking the woods and knotty pine make us feel like we’re up north. Aquariums hold lizards, snakes, a leopard frog (I think he’s awesome) and other amphibians. I get a kick out of watching turtles swim, two are stacked on top of each other in a roomy tank by the wall. Displays identify different species of turtles, birds and rodents. Maps mounted to a wall show us the parks of the 1920’s-30’s; have you heard of Swiss Valley, Green Glen or Broadway? Look at the way the river twists and turns. It seems the Clinton River was the top recreation spot for people living in Detroit back in the day. In the next room photos and descriptions lay out the history of the area, pretty fascinating stuff. From 1850-1864 part of the land was Spring Hill Farm. Landowners Sarah and Peter Lerich were known for their strong views on anti-slavery. Peter dug a spring for the farm and enlarged the spring house to form a cavity that could hide several people, a large Cedar tree atop the spring house was known as the Beacon Tree, marking it as a station on the Underground Railroad.

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In 1939 Joe Louis purchased Spring Hill which was then a well-known riding establishment; he was an avid horseback rider. Mr Louis made many changes to the farm; he added a track at the bottom of the hill for horse shows along with bleachers and box seats. The house was renovated and made into a restaurant and nightclub (really!) I saw a photo of an old postcard featuring the house with a map of the location, it reads: Joe Louis’ Spring Hill Farm “A Good Place To Eat And Drink”. I’ll bet it was something to see! He used the farm as a training camp to prepare for fights. He lost the property due to financial difficulties, the Michigan Conservation Department purchased the property in 1944.

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In another section of the park the first large Public Works project in Michigan was getting underway in 1838; the Clinton and Kalamazoo Canal. The canal would have made it possible to cross Michigan by boat from Lake St. Clair to Lake Michigan. Lack of finances ended the project in 1843 after only 12 miles of the canal were completed. Evidence of the canal can be found in several places. Walking from photo to photo one in particular grabs my attention. In 1957 the farm became one of four Nike Missile Bases in the Detroit area. It was manned by members of Battery B-516th AAA Missile Battalion until 1964. In 1974 the Michigan DNR regained control of the land and added it to the Rochester/Utica state recreation area. 

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Time to get out in the fresh air. We follow the back stairway down the steep hill to the Boardwalk Trail, the sky has cleared, we are surrounded by tranquility. Mushrooms sprout from fallen trees, everything around us is green and lush, woodland flowers are in bloom, it looks as if the boardwalk will be enveloped by plants soon. The trail leads us through the Tamarack Swamp, deer travel the ridge trail above us, sweet honeysuckle scents the air. The trail ends at the river, the water level is high, we turn around, going back the way we came. Extending our time outdoors we head east following the old forgotten trail along the ridge. The terrain changes from grassy to sandy to forest. Birds sing, deer are busy eating but take off as we approach. Remnants of the past are found in piles of railroad ties, concrete pads, partial structures of things that fell down or burned down over the years. The land has come full circle and is wild again.

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It’s Tuesday, if we time it right we can get over to Bloomer Park in Rochester Hills and watch the cyclists practice at the International Velodrome. The IVBP is an outdoor, 1/8 mile/200m oval with banking from 13-44 degrees. Paid for with private donations and built by volunteers from the cycling community, it was given to the city of Rochester Hills. A lone bicyclist is taking laps on the track. We get right up to the railing and have a good look, the bank looks steep to me but the rider handles it effortlessly. Kris notices a tunnel that leads to the center of the track, we traipse down the hill, find an asphalt path and enter the interior of the track. Wow, this is cool. More riders have arrived, they’re putting on their equipment as we wander over to them. One strikes up conversation with us, he lets me lift his bike, at less than 15 lbs I’m shocked at how light it is. All three riders are out on the oval now, they stay in pack form as we watch, each lap takes them a little higher. There are races here every Friday night throughout the summer, we’ll have to come back and catch one.

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Exploring the park further we find ourselves at the stone shelter, to me it looks like an old ski lodge. Built during the depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps, it’s made up of big stones, wood-shingle roof, wood ceiling, the far wall is a fireplace; so charming. We walk around inside then out the back to the balcony overlooking the park; you can follow the nearly 200 steps to the bottom of the hill. Did you know there was a ski jump right around here in the 1920’s? The story goes like this, ski jumping was very popular during the roaring 20’s, 6 brothers from Ishpeming MI formed the Detroit Ski Club in 1925, purchased 11 acres of land from the Newberry Farm on Bloomer Rd then spent $40,000 to build a competition-grade ski jump standing 112 feet atop Newberry Hill’s 230 ft elevation. More than 10,000 people attended its inaugural competition. The jump was destroyed by high winds in 1934 and rebuilt, it was destroyed again by winds in the 40’s, it was never replaced. 

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I’m hungry. A few minutes later we’re standing in line at Lipuma’s Coney Island on Main Street in downtown Rochester. We’ve been coming here forever and are never disappointed. I order the food, Kris grabs a table, a moment later my tray is loaded with food. It’s beautiful out on the deck, we relax to the sound of the river flowing by and the chatter of ducks. It doesn’t take long for us to polish off our food; 2 tacos for me, a Chicago dog and a Mexican dog for Kris. This is good stuff. For dessert we head to Dino’s Cookie Dough Bar on University. With more than a dozen flavors it’s not an easy decision, thank goodness they give you samples to try; butterscotch it is. A sweet ending to a great day.

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OAKLAND COUNTY: Backroads & More….

21 Nov

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 Not yet ready to relinquish all that is autumn we decided to enjoy a scenic drive on a mild November Sunday. We gassed up one of the vintage cars and headed to Rochester, then northwest on Orion Rd, a real beauty with its twists and turns. Our first stop was the Goodison Cider Mill; we parked on the side, the aroma of just fried donuts greeting us as we exited the car. The building sports a fresh coat of blue paint, windows are trimmed in white. Inside we are face to face with all of the standard cider mill offerings; bags of Michigan apples, jars of jam and apple butter, gallons of cider, and an entire glass case filled with donuts, oh, and the specialty of the house: pistachio bread. Kris and I only had one thing on our minds; cider and donuts. I can’t resist the plain old cake style donut, here the blueberry are Kris’s favorite; a glass of cider and we were set. We sat on a bench under the partly sunny sky and ate our goodies, then it was back in the car headed west.

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Up the road slightly we hung a left on Clarkston Rd, the road covers rolling hills and passes several picturesque lakes; leaves are smoldering in large piles, they fill the air with their unmistakable scent. We arrive in downtown Clarkston, a charming village with quaint shops and fantastic restaurants (one of my favorite combinations). We park the car and walk down Main Street, we are heading up the hill to Clarkston Union. We arrive just before 3pm, brunch is ending, the dinner menu starts at 3, so we wait to order. The Lions are on TV, as 3:00 arrives the door continues to open as hungry patrons fill the seats. The building was originally a church, the stained glass window in the front floods the space in colored light, church pews provide ample seating. The menu is filled with really good, hearty dishes, they were known for their Mac & Cheese before it became trendy. We ordered a Plowshares plate and the Union Press of the day, so much good food and so delicious! The ingredients rotate for both selections; we were served salami, Roma tomatoes, red onion, white cheddar, carrot sticks, a baguette and fresh fruit on the Plowshares plate. I’m not exactly sure what was on the panini….roasted red peppers, maybe some artichokes, doesn’t matter, it was fantastic! We ate till we could eat no more.

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Next door is Union General Cupcakery, you can see where I’m going with this… We stepped inside to find a quaint little shop, the centerpiece being, of course, the display case loaded with cupcakes, cookies and dessert bars. Antique furniture fills the room, bookshelves are packed tightly with cookbooks and kitchen do-dads. Unable to decide on a cupcake flavor I continued to walk around the shop; kitchen goods give way to a gift shop stacked with unique and funky goods. After browsing through books, smelling candles, and trying on jewelry I was ready to make my decision. Kris knows what he likes, so the caramel pecan bar caught his eye immediately, the carrot cake cupcake won me over with its tasty batter and heavenly cream cheese frosting. They also serve ice cream, coffee drinks and a variety of hot chocolates, so remember to save room. Barely able to move we walked slowly back to the car; this is definitely one of those towns  worth the drive. Spend the day window shopping, have a great meal and check out the lovely homes.

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Back in the car we made our way to White Lake Rd and continued west through the wooded landscape to Indian Springs Metropark. The Environmental Discovery Center has wonderful exhibits and a cool underwater pond viewing room, that’s where we started. We descend the stairs, the reflection from the water creating a pattern on the walls and floor, we come to the tunnel, we are surrounded on three sides by water, albeit cloudy, for a cool yet creepy effect. Above, a layer of sand and algae lay on the glass, we proceed further into the dome area; fish swim near the bottom, sunlight plays upon the water, we have the area to ourselves. I sit on the bench and look out across the pond, Kris snaps photos of fish as they swim past, it is an interesting perspective of pond life. Down a narrow hall, a series of windows grants us more views, pieces of wood appear to be fuzzy with the growth of underwater vegetation, some resemble sea monsters…… Back upstairs we follow the displays and learn about our surroundings; a giant cattail shoots up from a glass basin mimicking wetlands, an over-sized grasshopper clings to a stem as a giant frog leaps toward a lily pad. We step out onto the deck and gaze at the pond, this time from outdoors. We follow the gravel trail and stop to read the informative signs along the way, all the while keeping an eye open for rattlesnakes, seriously….at last circling the pond. Surrounded by beautiful backroads this 2,200 acre park has plenty to offer, give it a look.

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