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MICHIGAN: Coasting…..

It’s our last full day up north, we’ve got things to do! We pack up the Jeep with beach towels, food, cold drinks and head toward Sturgeon Bay. After a picnic lunch we cruise through tunnel of trees on our way to Harbor Springs; we park by the water then explore the quaint little town on foot. More than a century old, this waterfront community was once a thriving port-of-call for steam ferries and passenger ships carrying people from Detroit and Chicago to Little Traverse Bay. At one time a lumber mill, gristmill and toothpick factory took up real estate at the head of the harbor. Today beautiful historic structures grace the community, people come from all over to enjoy swimming, sandy beaches, boating, fishing and golfing.

The downtown business district follows the course of the bay, boutiques, bakeries, restaurants and galleries fill cute little storefronts. We meander in and out of shops selling designer fashions, glassware, cookware, artful pieces and home goods. The whimsical entrance at Boyer Glassworks draws us inside, a bevy of colorful glass pumpkins in orange, purple and blue fill gallery shelves. At Knox Gallery beautiful paintings line the walls, most impressive are the life-sized, phenomenally detailed bronze works. In the outdoor sculpture garden, bronze children hold hands and laugh, I really like the donkey, kinetic sculptures are active. We grab a cookie at Tom’s Mom’s Cookies on Spring Street, yum! Houses with roomy porches rest on hills, a red-brick church is adorned with Gothic windows, the hexagonal-shaped house was built in 1890 by Ephraim Shay–the guy who invented the Shay locomotive, the most widely used geared steam locomotive, the old Bar Harbor neon sign is cool. The view of Little Traverse Bay is exceptional, the water a deep blue today; we watch a sailboat glide past.

Going south on M 119 we then turn west on 31, Stafford’s Bay View Inn is our landmark, making a left on Encampment, we are now in Bay View. Founded in 1875 the Bay View Association of the United Methodist Church is nestled into 337 terraced acres featuring more than 30 public buildings, nearly 450 cottages and 2 inns that have been in operation since the early 1900’s. Originally formed as part of the Methodist Camp Meeting movement, it is now part of the Chautauqua movement. Educational programs of lectures and music began in 1886, in time programs for children and classes were added. By the late 1800’s Bay View Association had a Chautauqua series summer university attracting tens of thousands of visitors to the “intellectual and scientific culture and the promotion of the cause of religion and morality.” During this time the early “tent city” was transformed into the lovely Victorian resort community you see today.

The best way to experience Bay View is to stroll the shady, tree-lined lanes, taking in gingerbread laden cottages finished with crisp white trim, screen doors and lacy curtains. Each cottage is a different color; sunflower yellow, navy blue, white, grey. Rocking chairs and wicker furniture fill expansive porches, baskets of flowers hang from fancy trim, red geraniums fill a flower box. A sky blue beauty literally matches the sky today, the third floor of the turret is open to the outdoors, the view must be spectacular. Grand cottages are reached by concrete steps built into the hill, fish scale siding, ornate railings and gobs of spindles adorn the residences. Leaseholders are here from May through October, the community is closed November through April and the cottages must be vacated.

Our walk continues, we pause at the Happiness Is….. cottage decked out in bright yellow, orange and green, just looking at it really does make you happy. American, state and college flags shift in the breeze, many cottages are in the hands of third and fourth generations of a family. We come to the cottage I consider the Queen of all the Victorians, you can see it from 31, it’s this rambling, gorgeous, burgundy and cream doll house plastered with fine Victorian details, the wrap around porch is stunning. In the campus area all is quiet at Evelyn Hall and the John M Hall auditorium. A small group of tuxedo and gown wearing teenagers have gathered at the Terrace Inn. The front doors are open, we follow the trail of concrete stairs to the lobby, tonight is the local prom, it’s being held in the 1911 restaurant inside the Inn. The room is magnificent; the wooden floor gleams, columns are wrapped in white lights, wooden beams criss cross the ceiling, crystal chandeliers glow, they’re going to have a wonderful time.

Although the Bay View Association is only open to Christians, all of the programs are open to the public including the nationally renowned Music Festival which has been running for over 100 years. You are welcome to attend Sunday morning worship services, weekday religion and life lectures and musical performances. There’s a real sense of tranquility here, folks work in their garden, sit in a comfy chair drinking lemonade, everybody waves or says hello. The view of the bay is stunning. It’s exactly the way I imagine summers were a century ago.

A little further west is Bay Harbor. For more than 100 years, a cement plant and mining operations filled over 1,200 acres and 5 miles of Lake Michigan shoreline; industry left leaving a no-mans land of vacant, scarred property some described as a moonscape on Little Traverse Bay. In 1993 David V Johnson began the task of turning this forgotten land into one of the most luxurious residential communities in existence, it became the largest land reclamation project in North america. You’d never imagine it to be anything other than the extraordinary, year-round resort we see today. The greater community is made up of low-density neighborhoods, nature preserves, a marina, golf course and business district, all on the water’s edge. The Village Hotel offers boutique hotel rooms with a panoramic view of the bay. A small shopping area includes high-end boutiques, eateries and a coffee shop. The water is a deep turquoise, perfectly landscaped homes are carved into the natural setting, it looks like a postcard.

After a little r & r back in Charlevoix at the Earl Young cottage we are renting, we follow the tribe of sunset worshipers to the beach. I never tire of a Lake Michigan sunset, no two are the same. Sitting on a brick wall we watch as the sun descends, a lone wooden boat passes in the horizon. As the sun drops out of view the sky takes on the warm hues of summer; splendid, dazzling, memorable, as this whole trip has been. We close the night out in town at the Bridge Street Tap Room. Offering 32 taps of Michigan craft beer it takes us a few minutes to decide. Kris is having Short’s Soft Parade and I’m drinking Right Brain CEO Stout. We have fun thinking back over the last few days; the beautiful sights, tasty food and friendly people have made this a trip to remember.

Tags: Architecture, Bay Harbor, Bay View, Beaches, Charlevoix, Explore, Field Trip, Harbor Springs, Lake Michigan, Petoskey, Pure Michigan, Travel

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Categories Visit

Charlevoix The Beautiful

16 Jun

We are in the picturesque town of Charlevoix nestled between Lake Michigan and Lake Charlevoix. We’re spending a few days checking out everything the area has to offer while staying in an Earl Young cottage. After breakfast the first thing we do is walk down to the beach, we have easy access as stairways are built into the bluff on the other side of the road from our cottage. The white sand is already warm, we discard our shoes and walk the shoreline. Lake Michigan’s sparkling water is still frigid, we take turns walking from water to sand. The water is so clear you can perfectly see rocks nestled into the bottom, looking out, the water changes shades from clear to turquoise to deep blue. Pleasure boats skip across the waves, beach combers are preoccupied looking for the coveted Petoskey stone, paddleboarders head out into the lake. Sunbathers are already set up as we walk out to the boardwalk, the South Pier Lighthouse is owned by the city of Charlevoix, restoration has been ongoing, the Coast Guard still operates the light. From here we have a spectacular view of the lake and our surroundings, far to the left is the cement plant, to the right a fancy boat follows the Pine River into Round Lake; it’s staggeringly beautiful here.

Next we amble towards town, we make a stop at the Charlevoix Historical Museum inside the Harsha House on State Street. This splendid Victorian home was built by Charlevoix businessman Horace Harsha, his daughter Irene married Earl Young. The house is decorated in high Victorian style, bright-colored, patterned wallpaper covers the walls, doilies are everywhere. There are 3 period rooms filled with graceful, decorative items, exquisite fireplaces, artwork created by local artists and pianos. The next section concentrates on the settlement of Charlevoix from the 1850’s through the 1880’s; we learn what life was like in this tiny lake town; the kind of businesses that were here, the modes of transportation. They have a working player piano, a huge safe from the Charlevoix Lumber Company and an Edison Gem phonograph, I especially like the weathered wood fish market sign, Kris is fascinated by the historic photos. The gift shop offers a nice selection of Charlevoix-esque things including books on Earl Young and his mushroom houses.

In town we park on Bridge Street in the snug, 4-block business district. We make a beeline to That French Place, a quaint little creperie and ice cream shop to get a quick lunch. Studying the pastries in the glass case our hunger is apparent. We order at the counter from a chalkboard menu and grab the remaining table in the front window. Moments later our crepes arrive in cardboard crepe cones just like you would get on the street in Paris. The ham, egg and cheese is served in a buckwheat crepe, it’s delicious, the butter and sugar crepe— ok, butter and sugar folded up in a delicate crepe wrap, tres bon! This is a nice change from the standard menu offerings in town.

Now we can take our time walking both sides of the street, we wander in and out of galleries, clothing boutiques home goods stores, shops selling Michigan themed items housed in cute storefronts. We grab an iced coffee from a corner bakery, fill a bag with dozens of different flavored taffy from The Taffy Barrel. Gourmet food shops such as Kilwin’s, American Spoon, Murdick’s Fudge and Cherry Republic are Michigan staples, I can’t resist stopping in no matter how many times I’ve been. The streetscape is so pretty; beautiful blue water, miles of Petunias and the drawbridge that opens every half hour. The year-round population of Charlevoix hovers around 3,000, that number swells dramatically in the summer months. This small town offers big-city conveniences such as a municipal airport, marina, skate park, farmers market, performance pavillion and waterfront parks. And one of the most beautiful natural harbors in the country.

After eating and shopping we take a field trip a little south off M-66 to Castle Farms. I really didn’t know much about Castle Farms until I read a few things once we had our trip planned; intrigued by the story and photos we put it on our list of things to see while we’re here.The farm was built in 1918 by Albert Loeb, the acting president of Sears and Roebuck at the time. Loeb was fond of the stone barns and castles found in Normandy France, he decided to build his own French-inspired model dairy farm right here in Charlevoix. The farm was home to over 200 head of prize-winning Holstein-Friesian and 13 pair of Belgian draft horses. At one time the farm employed over 90 people and was the largest employer in the city; surrounding residents would come to the farm to buy milk, cheese and ice cream. Loeb would try out new farming equipment here to decide if Sears should sell it. It must have been quite a sight back in those days, all those cattle roaming around the castle…

From the 1970’s to the 1990’s the property became a music theater and summer concert venue: Castle Farms Summer Music Theater. Rock was the main genre, big names like Alice Cooper, Ozzy Osbourne, Billy Idol, Stevie Nicks, Cheap Trick, Peter Frampton and Def Leppard all played here. Maybe you saw a concert here. In 2001 Linda Mueller purchased the property and began an extensive renovation of the property and buildings. What had been removed was rebuilt, what was here was restored, one of the largest model railroad layouts in Michigan was added in 2008. Today it’s a unique, lovely, wedding and event destination. Let’s go for a walk…

We meander in and out of gorgeous stone buildings alongside gardens organized by theme, a rose garden and a formal garden. We get our first look at the model railroad, wow! G-Scale trains run on seven levels through tunnels, over bridges through hedges and past waterfalls. There are more than 60 trains that glide past little buildings, water towers, animals and people. An observation tower overlooks the railroad giving us a great view, guess what? Tracks line the inside of the tower, trains chug by making their way to the top.

We traverse the grounds stepping into the Round Office with historic photos and blueprints of the farm, the Octagonal building was once used as an ice house. The Carriage Hall originally had open sides, it was used to house the Loeb’s wagons, carriages and cars. Two antique vehicles are on display along with showcases filled with toys from 1860 through the present. Each building houses one of the owners many collections such as glass, toys, royal commemorative pieces honoring royal families from around the world, wedding cake toppers, you get the idea. The original blacksmith shop is now the 1918 Museum featuring WWI memorabilia and items from the 1918 Sears catalog. Shelves of items such as toys, trains, hats, boots, plates and tools are displayed next to the actual catalog page description. WWI uniforms and posters are treasured collections of the owner.

One space after another offers an elegant, opulent, dazzling space to hold a wedding or special event. Some such as the Great Hall have soaring wood-beam ceilings, stone walls, wrought iron chandeliers; the King’s Balcony overlooks the grounds. Each space is a little different in size and decor but all are awe-inspiring. Four towers were originally built as silos, original glazed tiles still line the silo walls; there’s a nice blend of old and new. Speaking of new, Norm the dragon found a home here in 2013 after being purchased in 2012 at ArtPrize, now he has his very own garden. We say good-bye to Norm, watch the ducks in the reflecting pond then make our way back to our cottage. We’re back at the beach in time to watch the sunset, what a magnificent one it is. Goodnight.

Tags: Castle Farms, Charlevoix, Explore, Field Trip, Great Lakes, Lake Michigan, Resort Towns, Travel, Up North

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Categories Visit

Charlevoix: Rock On!!!

8 Jun

Our travels have taken us to the northwestern edge of the mitten, the city of Charlevoix to be exact. You may know Charlevoix by reputation; quaint, small town surrounded by water: Lake Michigan, Round Lake and Lake Charlevoix, magnificent views, stunning harbor, pristine sandy beaches, fresh whitefish and fudge. What you may not know about the city is its one-of-a-kind stone “mushroom” houses built by famed local architect Earl Young. We have the good fortune of spending the next 4 days at one of his cottages on Park Ave called Abide. Check in is at 4:00 pm, so we have some time to explore the neighborhood.

Earl Young built more than 30 structures in the city of Charlevoix. In 1908 he enrolled in architecture school at U of M, bored with the study of traditional architecture, he left after one year; he learned about construction and architecture on his own by reading books and magazines, he was an apprentice stone mason to gain understanding of how things were built. He became a realtor and insurance agent, never a registered architect. Young had his own way of doing things, he never made blueprints, he designed the structure to fit the landscape, it is said he was difficult to work with, he designed on-the-spot using stones that ‘spoke to him’. His wife Irene, an artist, would refine his sketches and bring them to the job site describing Young’s vision to workers.

We begin our walk in Boulder Park, Young purchased this large piece of land in 1924, partitioned it into 85 irregular-shaped lots, he sold them for $100 each with the stipulation that the first floor of any house built had to be made of stone or stucco; Young built 10 homes in Boulder Park. He first worked on a house with green mortar between the stones, entryways to his homes are in unexpected places, almost hidden, some without a walkway to the entrance. Chimneys are remarkable, giving the impression of randomly placed stones, often chimney-tops appear to be slathered in frosting or snow (I prefer frosting…). Houses are built of stone and timber, some have rolled eaves, colored mortar, stucco. All are playful, whimsical, looking as if they sprouted from the place in which they sit. One looks like an English cottage, another resembles a Swiss Chalet, they have Arts and Crafts characteristics. There’s the Owl House, the Enchanted Cottage, the Norman Panama House, the Pagoda House.

The most well-known house in the park is Boulder Manor, it’s amazing. Young had a habit of saving boulders, he would hide them underground, in the woods or in Lake Michigan, always remembering each one, waiting for an opportunity to use it. Boulder Manor would be the recipient of many of these stone treasures. He began work on the home in 1928, it was to be his family home, the playhouse in the backyard was finished first. Before the home could be completed the Great Depression hit, Young lost the house to the bank in 1929. Finally in 1937 he regained possession, finishing it in 1939. You can’t miss it, the front of the house has a huge arched window that looks out over Lake Michigan, the boulders used in construction are massive. Pictures of the interior feature a magnificent fireplace. You do not simply look at these homes, they literally stop you in your tracks. Combinations of stones, uniquely shaped exteriors, roof lines, all cause us to pause, study, and admire the structures.

The temperature hovers in the mid 80’s as the afternoon sun blazes overhead, the breeze off Lake Michigan provides relief. We head northeast following Lake Shore Dr to East Park to see some of Young’s later houses, He started building in 1919 and continued into the 70’s. On the left perched above the lake is one of the most photographed of Young’s houses. This one appears to resemble an elongated mushroom, glass panels afford us a view straight through the house to the turquoise water below. The house is irregular in shape, the chimney made up of 3 stone stacks, flat stones are layered to create borders and fences, it’s pretty spectacular.

Park Avenue is home to some of Young’s later houses, referring to these structures he is quoted as saying he “built roofs and then shoved the houses underneath”. Indeed Young’s creativity flows here; roofs meander, buildings are built into hills and trickle down slopes, I can picture Tinkerbell or perhaps Snow White and the 7 dwarfs living in Half House, Hansel and Gretel in Abide, they’re interesting, inviting, they pique our curiosity, I want to peer inside the funny shaped windows, sit on the rock steps, drink hot chocolate by the fireplaces. In 1945 Young built a large cottage with a thatched roof from Europe, later the roof was changed to shingles, the new owners of the house have returned the roof back to thatch as originally constructed.

We walk to downtown for lunch at the Weathervane. Originally built as a gristmill in 1871, Young purchased the property and converted the building into this iconic restaurant in the mid-50’s. There are 5 fireplaces in the restaurant, the main one is topped by a 18,260 lb. glacial boulder found by Young years back. We are seated on the deck overlooking the Pine River channel and Lake Michigan, not a bad view! We eat a lunch of today’s special whitefish sandwich, very tasty and a caprese salad, I wash it down with a Belgian Dubbel from Petoskey Brewing. We are entertained by all of the activity; boats come and go through the channel, tourists walk waterside out to the beach.

When we are finished we take a self-tour of the restaurant, checking out the fireplaces, the main bar constructed of shipwreck planks, the view. A circular stairwell leads to the lower level where Young once had his office, we find massive timbers and boulders, another fireplace. Displays pay tribute to Young and his work, old photos and memorabilia tell the history of the buildings and Charlevoix. Outside we cross the parking lot to the Terrace Inn nestled into the landscape, Young’s signature turrets obscure stairwells that lead to the second floor rooms of the hotel, it’s enchanting. We peek into the lobby to get a look at yet another sensational fireplace.

Across the road, Young built another hotel called The Lodge, which opened in 1959, a huge rock out front bears the name of the hotel. Two-stories tall, constructed of wood and stone it looks very lodge-like, here again we have the castle-like turrets that enclose stairways. We enter the lobby, the desk clerk is not surprised to learn we are here to see the fireplace. It’s unique in its vertical design, the wood mantle is very attractive, we learn the sawn-log end tables are original to the lobby too. When you come to Charlevoix you have many options of Earl Young designed accommodations available to you, in addition to the hotels many of his cottages are available for rental privately or through VRBO. Which leads us (finally) to Abide, the cottage we have rented for the long weekend.

It doesn’t get any more charming than this. Abide was built by Young in 1938 as a rental cottage, it’s darling. A curved pathway leads us to the arched wooden door which is unlocked, waiting for our arrival. Inside a landing of rock makes way to a wood floor, in fact the whole interior is wood, stucco and stone. The square footage comes in at 620 sq ft, every single inch exudes warmth, beauty and coziness. The fireplace is the first he built of Onaway stone, an easy chair is pulled up close. The living space is wide open, one area easily leading to the next. A large table with a bench on each side fills the dining room, wood beams line the stucco ceiling, windows give us a view of the outdoors from every angle. A single bed is tucked into the sleeping porch, a queen bed takes up most of the main bedroom. A narrow hall leads to a galley-style kitchen, all of the modern conveniences are found in this sweet space. As I unpack and explore Kris plays Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong on the CD player, I feel as if I have gone back in time. The evening breeze shuffles the curtains, as evening falls people walk past on their way to catch a sunset on the beach, what a wonderful idea. We immediately feel at home, and we are, at least for the next few days that is……

Tags: Architecture, Charlevoix, EARL YOUNG, Explore, Field Trip, Lake Michigan, MUSHROOM HOUSES, THE LODGE, Travel, Up North, WEATHERVANE TERRACE INN

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Categories Road Trips, Visit

A Little North…..

2 Jun

We are in the Village of Romeo, there’s an estate sale at the former Prospect Hill Bed and Breakfast at 439 Prospect Street. We’ve always wanted to see the inside of this 6,000 sq. ft. beauty, today’s our chance. We park on the street and approach the hill-top property, curiosity-seekers and shoppers enter and exit through the front doors. The imposing structure is quite lovely, immediately in the entry way a staircase leads us up, we make our way from room to room noticing antique light fixtures, wide moldings surrounding the ceiling and doorways and the unique feature of inset sinks in the bedrooms. Fireplaces are marble, floors are wood, medallions grace a few of the ceilings. Everything is for sale.

Having satisfied our curiosity we decide to take a stroll through the neighborhood. The area now known as Romeo was originally inhabited by Chippewa Indians and called Indian Village, as more and more people moved into the village homes were put up, businesses began to grow; the town was re-named Romeo in 1838. Much of the architecture you see today dates to the 19th and 20th centuries, most of it Victorian in style, including the picturesque downtown. The entire Village of Romeo is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. We stroll up and down Main Street, beautiful Queen Anne homes sport lattice, spindles, fish-scale and shake siding. Elaborate paint schemes make the most of architectural details, porches are large and inviting, baskets of flowers hang above.

Throughout the neighborhood homes have leaded glass windows, graceful columns, stone is a popular feature whether used for a chimney or the lower level of a house, I like the way it looks. Flowering trees are still in bloom, lawns are deep green and lush. Greek Revival and Italianate styles join the Queen Anne’s with their colorful exteriors. We spy a pale yellow home with the fanciest trim I think I’ve ever seen, from the distinctive columns and window pediments to the third-story dormers and decoration under the eaves, it’s spectacular. The green Second Empire at 240 Sisson is gorgeous, as are so many of these well cared for homes. Romeo still maintains its agricultural history with farms and orchards throughout the city.

A short drive and we’re at Blake’s Ciderhouse and Winery in Armada for lunch. Gerald and Elisabeth Blake along with their 13 children started the historic farm back in 1846, they now have over 500 acres of orchards and farmland. The business has passed down through the generations and is one of the most popular cider mills in the area. With the addition of hard cider, wine and beer a whole new clientele is being introduced to the Blake’s family. The Ciderhouse and Winery is housed in a charming, rustic-looking building. The interior is an attractive mix of wood, wrought iron and decorative concrete, a large open fireplace rests in the center of the room. Wood shelves and cabinets hold craft ciders in glass bottles and aluminum cans, wine is sold by the bottle in several varieties.We have a seat at the bar, check out the latest ciders and place our order. I am having the Cransylvania Cider, a mix of blood orange and cranberry, it’s refreshing and delicious. Kris is drinking the Flannel Mouth, a nice, sweet apple-y hard cider. Our bbq chicken flatbread arrives; a sweet tangy bbq sauce is layered with chicken, smoked gouda cheese and sliced red onion, yum! Have to leave room for dessert…..

Achatz Handmade Pie Company has been making pies using recipes passed down through the generations since 1993, we are at the North Ave location in Armada. If you have seen the name but aren’t sure how its pronounced, it rhymes with jackets. The space is homey, comfortable, shabby chic, vintage items are re-purposed as shelving and displays. You can purchase salsa’s, salad dressing, jam, honey, popcorn and of course pie! The length of the room is one long string of tasty offerings from homemade soups to desserts. There’s a lot to choose from so we have to give this some serious consideration, we finally agree on the Turtle Cheesecake. We order a slice at the counter along with espresso for Kris and tea for me. We take our tray to a seat by the roll-up door. The caramel cheesecake rests on a chocolate crust then is topped with a chocolate ganache and pecans, rich and delicious. We take our time enjoying our sweet treat, the afternoon sun and the breeze coming in through the door. Life is Good.

Tags: Achatz Handmade Pie Co, Armada, Blake's Orchard, Detroit, Explore, Field Trip, Hard Cider, Historic Homes, Romeo, Romeo MI, Travel

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Categories Drink, Eat, Visit

DETROIT: Cruisin’ Gratiot….

25 May

In a yet to be revitalized area of the city, the Assumption Of The Blessed Virgin Mary Catholic Church has been standing on this very spot since 1847, today it is better known as Assumption Grotto Catholic Church, the building you see today was put up in 1929. The limestone Neo-Gothic structure faces Gratiot Ave, three elongated, arched windows top three ornate wooden doors, wrought iron lanterns hang from winged brackets. Inside the church only a handful of lights are on, there’s still about 30 minutes until Mass.

Overhead lights illuminate the altar, the marble altarpiece is spectacular. The simple stone interior is adorned with brightly colored stained glass windows, archways line the nave. I look to the back of the church where the organ loft is located, my eyes are drawn to the gorgeous wood-beamed ceiling, funny I didn’t notice that right away. More lights are turned on, candles are being lit, more worshipers arrive. Now painted patterns on ceiling beams are obvious, I can see details in the Italian marble altars, gates and communion rails. The organist has started, Mass is about to begin.

Behind the church is a cemetery, scattered through the park-like setting statues stand atop tombstones, crosses vary in size and design, the names Schoenherr, Rivard and Trombley can be found here. Some tombstones are in German, French and English, others resemble rocks with inset designs. A Pelican stands atop the headstone of Father Amandus Vandendriessche, the first pastor of Assumption Grotto (1852). The oldest stones we see are from the 1840’s and 50’s.

We follow the paved walkway through the cemetery, past the stations of the cross that line each side, to the grotto. It’s a pretty big deal. In 1876 Father V visited the Sanctuary Of Our Lady of Lourdes in France, he was so inspired he decided to build his own holy grotto right here in Detroit; he laid the cornerstone in 1881, it’s been here ever since. In 1882 Pope Leo XII signed a proclamation “granting partial and plenary indulgences” for anyone who visited the grotto and prayed for propagation of the faith, which brought thousands of pilgrims to worship at the shrine. Those sick in mind, body and soul have prayed for the aid of the blessed virgin.

The grotto is constructed of limestone, boulders around the shrine were carried by farmers from all over Michigan, the fountain in front of the shrine has not been turned on yet. Brick pavers fill the space between the fountain and grotto, a single wooden kneeler faces the open archway. A statue of the Virgin Mary sets high on the rooftop, inside there’s a small altar, inscriptions cover inside walls and ceiling. It is because of the notoriety of the shrine the Church Of The Assumption began to be known as Assumption Grotto.

Heading south on Gratiot we turn into the parking lot of the Better Made factory and outlet store, the original sign still stands since 1934. Unfortunately the public can no longer tour the factory, but, you can buy all of the delicious snack foods Better Made makes! We walk in the front door and find ourselves standing in a small customer waiting area, framed articles about the company hang on the walls, antique potato chip tins rest on shelves, memorabilia items fill a display case. You can buy T-shirts, hats, drinking glasses and key chains all with the Better Made logo. Plexiglas separates the public area from the factory, workers wait on customers one at a time placing cases of potato chips, popcorn, pretzels and other snacks in a passageway, money is slid under a bank-teller-like window. We leave with a stash of potato sticks, cheese balls and dill pickle chips.

A little further down Gratiot is On The Rise Bakery and Cafe. Sponsored by the Capuchin Soup Kitchen. Bakers have recently been released from prison or have completed a substance abuse treatment program. After bakery trainees complete their allotted time they move on to seek employment elsewhere and a new participant assumes their position. Each purchase supports housing, training, counseling services, educational opportunities and self-help programs AND their bread and baked goods are wonderful! The counter is piled high with individually wrapped brownies, muffins, caramel pecan rolls and pineapple upside-down cake, cookies the size of frisbees fill a display case. We place our order, before we know it our lunch is brought out on a tray. Mildly spiced chili is made with ground beef and beans, we like ours with oyster crackers. Our turkey sandwich is served on multi-grain bread with lettuce tomato and Dijon mustard. Coming here always makes me feel good, I get to eat delicious food and at the same time I am contributing to a worthwhile cause.

Tags: Assumption Grotto, Bakery, Better Made, Capuchin Soup Kitchen, Cemetery, Detroit, Explore, Field Trip, Grotto, Historic Church, On The Rise, Travel

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Categories Eat, Visit

West Side Memories

17 May

Once upon a time, uniformed men driving delivery trucks went door to door through neighborhoods offering goods and services such as milk, vegetables, coffee, knife sharpening and baked goods. Though he was just a young boy at the time, Kris has vivid memories of the Awrey’s Bakery man coming to their house on Coplin, carrying his treasure chest of sweet treats. In 1910 the Awrey family began selling baked goods in their Detroit neighborhood, their first store was on Tireman. The family business continued to grow through the decades becoming one of the largest privately owned bakeries in the United States. The company was sold in 2005 with family members still working for the company. Financial troubles arose in 2012, Awrey’s was headed for the auction block when Jim McColgan of Minnie Marie Bakers stepped in and purchased the company. Today Awrey’s Bakery is alive and well, America’s Hometown Bakery lives on.

We are in Livonia at the Bakery/Outlet, Awrey’s moved production here in 1967. A cool, vintage, neon windmill marks the location, today Tulips in full bloom surround the sign. The building is not fancy to look at, you’d never know the deliciousness stored inside. Tables, rolling shelves and racks hold popular items such as coffee cakes, danish, muffin tops and brownies. In the center, a table of ‘seconds’ awaits sweet-toothed consumers; 8-inch square French Buttercream Ripple Cake (think “bumpy cake”), Carrot Cake and Kris’s favorite, Caramel Ripple Cake sell for $2.49 each, a perfect one will cost you $4.99. Two old-fashioned, green and stainless steel conveyors wait to check out shoppers. You can find old favorites like Windmill cookies, along with sheet cakes, new items, Bill Knapps 6″ chocolate cakes and Sanders candy here at the outlet. Of course, we couldn’t leave without the caramel cake, it’s just as good as he remembers…maybe even better…

Next stop, Nankin Mills in Westland. This is one of those historic places that has undergone many incarnations over the years. The 2 1/2 story Greek Revival building was constructed as a gristmill in 1863. In 1918 Henry Ford came along and purchased the mill as part of his Village Industries. He converted the building to a small factory, employing 12 workers, producing screws for Ford. In 1927 the mill employed 70 people as they changed over to produce dies that cast the infamous Ford logo that appeared on hub caps, instrument panels, horn buttons and gear-shift knobs. The factory closed after WWII. In 1948 Ford donated the site to the Wayne County Road Commission, which remodeled the mill and opened as a nature center in 1956.

In 2001 the original mill opened as an interpretive center demonstrating the changing face of the mill and the area’s cultural and natural history. Exhibits follow tribes of Native Americans that canoed the Rouge River, aquariums hold turtles and tortoises as placards explain the area’s eco-system. We follow the mill through its gristmill days spanning 1819-1918, equipment takes us through the steps of taking wheat, corn, rye and buckwheat from grain to flour. Antique machinery and samples of items made for Ford accompany videos of workers sharing their memories. Its small, but still a fascinating place.

For lunch we stop at the Daly Drive-In on Plymouth Road, it’s been here since 1959, the original drive-in is still in operation. The yellow corrugated roof extends in waves over parking places complete with speakers. Inside we’re seated in a booth, a red and white checkered cloth covers the table, the menu still sports the retro blue and orange boomerang-shaped logo. We get the Dalyburger Plate: a 1/4 lb burger smothered in Daly sauce, with fries and slaw. The DalyDog is a 1/4 lb footlong drenched in spicy coney island sauce, mustard and diced onions, served in the same cardboard sleeve they’ve been using since 1948. Simple food served with a side of nostalgia.

The Custard Hut has been on W Warren in Dearborn Hts since 1979, this is our first visit. This frozen custard and ice cream shop is known for one particular item, the Famous Hot Waffle Sandwich. We step inside, the only decision we need to make is what flavor frozen custard we want, the two flavors of the day are toasted coconut and pistachio (chocolate and vanilla are always available), easy, make it a twist. The girl behind the counter disappears, she reappears holding 2 steaming chocolate chip waffles, she carefully swirls the coconut/pistachio custard on one waffle, tops it off with the other, sandwich style, wraps it in foil and hands it over. The waffle is warm and tender, easy to bite through getting a satisfying mix of custard and waffle, yum! A steady stream of patrons come and go as we eat, it seems the waffle sandwich has a loyal following, I can totally see why. It’s been another great day visiting businesses and places that have stood the test of time.

Tags: Adventures, Awrey's Bakery, Custard Hut, Daly Drive-In, Detroit Blog, Eat, Explore, Field Trip, Henry Ford, Historic Mill, Nankin Mill, Travel, Village Industries

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Categories Visit

Marine City: Sweetness OD

10 May

If you haven’t been to Marine City in a while (or ever) you need to put it on your list of places to visit. This quaint city along the west bank of the St. Clair River has a newly vibrant downtown that includes restaurants, boutiques, antique shops, waterfront parks, a public beach and two live theatres. There’s even a car Ferry that will take you across the river to Sombra, Ontario Canada. Roughly 50 miles northeast of Detroit it’s perfect for a quick escape from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Today we are seeing a matinée performance of Roald Dahl’s Willy Wonka at the River Bank Theatre, first we’re having lunch at the Marine City Fish Company. We arrive before the theatre rush; the eatery specializes in local fresh fish, house made pasta, house-smoked ribs and smoked salmon. We’ve selected the BLT: house-smoked brown sugar bacon, white cheddar, tomato, greens and creole mayo on a grilled french roll. The bacon is crisp, the brown sugar and creole seasoning work well together, yum. The smoked salmon salad starts with a generous portion of baby greens, onion, tomato, cucumber, gourmet cheeses and of course, the house-smoked salmon; the cherry vinaigrette is a nice touch. When we’re finished I notice there isn’t an empty seat in the place. There’s still time before the show, let’s go get dessert.

The Sweet Tooth moved into its new location earlier this year, the larger space allows the chocolates to be made on-site and includes a rentable room for parties. The man behind the chocolate is Marine City’s own Candy Man, Todd May. Todd has transformed the shop into a Wonka wonderland! Candy bars wear Wonka labels straight out of the movie, other Wonka candy varieties are nestled together on a table display. Whirly Pops and Unicorn Horn suckers are a rainbow of colors, big glass jars hold jaw breakers, suckers and gumballs. Big wooden cases display vintage candy signs and retro candy from the 50’s-70’s.

On the left side of the shop glass cases display handmade chocolates from truffles, barks and clusters to turtles, toffee and pretzels dipped and sprinkled a half-dozen different ways; a dazzling array of bulk bins line the other wall. The Sweet Tooth also sells Michigan’s own Hudsonville Ice Cream, that’s what I’m having, if I can just decide which flavor….. In the meantime Kris decides on toffee and a chocolate dipped Nutter Butter, I order a scoop of Sleeping Bear Dunes Bear Hug in a cup, best decision I’ve made today. Deep chocolate ice cream, thick caramel swirl and chocolate covered cashews, delicious.

When we’ve finished we walk down Water Street three doors to the River Bank Theatre. Originally the Marine Savings Bank, the brick and stone building was constructed in the early 1900’s. The structure was converted to a theatre seating 179 patrons with tiered and box seating; the vaults and architectural details remain, love that. Wonka has taken over the theatre, framed posters of lickable wallpaper hang in the lobby. Bank vaults are visible, fascinating to be able to look at them up close. Heading to the theatre entrance we’re handed programs and shown to our seats.

We’re sitting in the last row, we have a wonderful overall view of the space; decorative plaster has been restored, fancy medallions and highly detailed moldings surround the interior. Two staff members from The Sweet Tooth hold old-fashioned cigarette-girl-type-boxes filled with Wonka bars on stage, patrons stand in line for Nestle Crunch, Reese’s and Cookies and Cream bars (wrapped in Wonka labels, of course) in hopes that they might be the lucky recipient of a ‘golden ticket’. Before the show starts winners raise their hand, they each receive a Sweet Tooth gift card.

The lights dim and the show begins, Willy Wonka emerges from box seating, as he descends the staircase to the stage he sings Pure Imagination and our ride to the Wonka factory begins. The sets are colorful, creative and downright fun, all of our favorite golden ticket winners are here, audience members can’t help sing along to songs ingrained in our memories– The Candy Man, I’ve got a Golden Ticket, I Want It Now, etc. Oh, I can’t forget the Oompa Loompas, elementary-aged children dressed in white overalls, orange-faced, wearing green wigs, singing and dancing—adorable. As all good stories go, they all lived happily ever after. In the wise words of Willy Wonka “If you want to view paradise, simply look around and view it. Anything you want to, do it.” Now get out there and have some fun!

Tags: Candy, Dinner, Explore, Ice Cream, Marine City Fish Company, Musical Theater, Pure Michigan, The Sweet Tooth, Travel, Willy Wonka

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Categories Eat, Visit

Exploring Clarkston

4 May

About halfway between Detroit and Flint off I-75 is the tiny Village of Clarkston. Roughly a half square mile in size the picturesque village is home to a thriving downtown, over 100 historic structures, Parke Lake and the Mill Pond. Early settlers include brothers Jeremiah and Nelson Clark, for whom the village was named in 1842. The pilot for the HBO series HUNG was shot at Clarkston Jr. High School. Recently Clarkston Union Bar & Kitchen and Union Woodshop were featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives as part of Kid Rock’s Detroit tour with Guy Fieri. Oh and Valerie Bertinelli lived here as a child.

We park the Jeep by the Mill Pond, a placard tells us it was created by the Clark brothers to harness water power. The original dam held Clinton River water to a depth of 22 feet producing the power to run the (then) nearby gristmill. The Mill Pond became a central feature in the village, it was used for boating, swimming and ice harvesting. Henry Ford came along in 1941 and built an enhanced dam to provide more power for his Village Industry at Clarkston Mill. Elegant homes rise up on the banks of the tranquil pond. We head out on foot through the charming neighborhood surrounding the pond.

Walking along the sidewalk, modest homes represent many styles of architecture, no two houses are the same. Cozy bungalows and Tudor revivals are some of the few homes made of brick, Saltbox and Victorians are colorful. Heading back to Main Street we watch a family of geese go for a leisurely swim in the pond. The grandest homes reside on Main Street (M-15); Queen Anne’s, Greek Revivals and an eye-catching Mansard in blue, take up loads of square footage. Porches are large, columns are a common feature and come in many lengths and diameters. The massive, white, Greek Revival is impressive, wide Ionic columns and black wrought iron balcony give the structure and important feel.

Lawns are deep green and lush, weeping cherry and Redbud trees bloom along with golden-yellow forsythia, multi-colored Tulips and dandelions. The homes are just lovely, white Colonial Revivals share the real estate with a grey Queen Anne donning pink accents; fish scale siding accompanies highly detailed trim, fancy window pediments and American Flags rustling in the breeze. The building at 90 N Main started out in 1910 as Clarkston High School, Henry Ford bought the property in 1940 and used it as a factory to manufacture vehicle straps and seat cushions for military and other vehicles during WWII. He added a smokestack and power plant at the back of the building using the water from Parke Lake to create steam power.

We dip in and out of side streets perpendicular to Main, more lovely homes are colored in deep blue, earth tones, lavender and pink; each is unique. Urns have already been filled with spring flowers, azaleas are a blaze of purple. Over on Buffalo we see what was originally the Methodist Episcopal Church built in 1873, it’s now a private residence, it’s gorgeous with fancy brickwork surrounding elegant wooden doors. Homeowners are creative with their decorating style, many of the houses look recently restored.

Back on Main St. flowering pear trees are in full bloom, Rudy’s Grocery has a large selection of hanging flower baskets for sale; the store is charming with its stone exterior. Essence On Main sells specialty foods, select wines, locally roasted coffee, housemade soups, sandwiches and treats in addition to housewares. I love the Detroit Jewel Stove used in one of the displays. All of this food is making us hungry! Further down the street we have arrived at our destination, Union Woodshop. The place is jam-packed, 2 empty bar stools have our names written all over them. We like sitting at the bar, the conversation and interaction with the staff is always interesting. A quick look at the menu and we place our order.

Union Woodshop is part of the Union Joints family which includes Clarkston Union, Vinsetta Garage, Fenton Fire Hall, Pumphouse Custard and Union General Store. Kris and I love that they put their businesses in such interesting, old buildings. We eat our Cherry Pork Salad of house-smoked pulled pork, piles of romaine lettuce, dried Michigan cherries and crispy friend onions dressed in honey mustard and the Pretender sandwich: House-made vegan patty, coal-fired tomatoes, arugula, broccoli sprouts, goat cheese, shiitake bacon dressed with roasted garlic balsamic mayo; nary a word is uttered—everything is top-notch delicious! The restaurant has an eclectic decor of funky light fixtures, tin ceiling, sawed-log-covered walls and knotty pine beams.

Further down Main St. we stop in at the sister store Union General a boutique and cupcakery housed in a 1850 parsonage. After all that savory food we could use a sweet little something. The self-description of the store is purposeful goods and lovely whimsies, yep, I’ll go with that. And then there’s the cafe; ice cream, coffee drinks, hot chocolate made with Sanders Hot Fudge (I know!) and an assortment of baked goods, cupcakes are the specialty. After much thought we choose the PBJ and a Baby Cake, a cup of coffee completes our order. We sit at the only table and dig in, both are wonderful; moist, dense cake, creamy frosting, just the right amount of sweet, perfect.

Clarkston is an ideal destination for a day trip. The pretty little village has destination-worth dining, walkable neighborhoods and plenty of surrounding water, check it out.

Tags: Architecture, Eat, Explore, Field Trip, Mill Pond, Travel, Union Joints, Union Woodshop, Village of Clarkston

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Categories Eat, Visit

DETROIT: Y-not ??

27 Apr

We’re in downtown Detroit today at the Boll Family YMCA for the Our Detroit photography exhibit; the show features 3 Detroit photographers: Amy Sacka, Bruce Giffin and Donita Simpson. We step into the light-drenched lobby, framed photographs, grouped by artist, temporarily hang on metal racks and wire partitions. Curious visitors meander the space; the photographs, taken in Detroit, feature faces of everyday people who call the city home. Kris and I met Amy shortly after she moved back to Detroit, we truly admire her work, she really has a way of capturing the true essence of her subjects; it makes her pictures come to life. Each of the artists has their own unique style. The photos reach out to the viewer, making us pause to consider the subject, the surroundings, before moving on to the next.

While we’re here we might as well check the place out. Walking to the far end of the main floor a large window affords us a look at the indoor pools, one for swimming, one for laps; bathing suit-clad members are having a good time splashing about. We take the stairway up to the top, a 40′ climbing wall with a seamless rock face has climbing routes for both the beginner and advanced climber; we watch as athletes young and old practice their skills. We take a peek in the conditioning room, floor to ceiling windows give people on treadmills and ellipticals a wonderful view of downtown. The indoor track makes us feel as if we are floating among surrounding buildings, a pick-up game of basketball is going on one side of the gym, a volleyball game on the other.

Much of the building is glass, making one feel connected to downtown, colorful artwork hangs on walls. Renderings follow the Detroit YMCA from its beginning in 1887 on Grand River and Griswold to the 1909 building on Witherall and Adams to today’s Y. Prominent Detroit families like the Fords, Dodges, Kresges, Fishers and Hannans all supported the Y through the years. This building is named after philanthropists John A and Marlene L Boll, their foundation supports education, the arts and health services, all of which can be found here on Broadway.

The evening is mild, we decide to walk the couple blocks to Vertical for dinner. Located below street level in the 1913 flatiron shaped building, originally the Henry Clay Hotel, then the Milner Hotel, now The Ashley, it’s home to 67 one and two bedroom apartments, Vertical wine bar and restaurant and the soon-to-open Dilla’s Delights donut shop. We enter on Centre Street, the lobby is quite lovely in white with black accents; some of the original stained glass windows remain as does the tile floor. The restaurant is quite attractive, eclectic decor includes interesting chandeliers, partially restored tin ceiling, patterned soffets and bright red columns. Wine bottles are everywhere.

We are seated at a small table in the main dining area, the menu is filled with a variety of tasty appetizers, composed small plates, salads and desserts–the wine list is expansive….We each choose two items to share. Flash-fried Spanish Queen olives are stuffed with Roquefort and served in a martini glass with curried honey, the focaccia of the day is a wonderful dense, tender bread brushed with chipotle honey and served with chive butter. The spinach salad is a combination of Mission fig, candied walnuts, tomato, red onion, Roquefort, tossed with a red-wine vinaigrette. The scallops (probably the most delicious we’ve ever had) are served with a corn coulis, bacon lardens, bacon powder, pea tendrils and a fig gastrique, this dish was exceptional. I have to say everything was excellent, flavorful and unique.

When we’ve finished we head out on foot again to a little hideaway in an alley. The Belt is the alley between Broadway and Library Street, linking Gratiot and Grand River. Home to fabulous public art including murals and installations, it’s also the only way to enter the newest craft cocktail bar Standby. Strings of lights criss-cross overhead, a lantern lights an open doorway cut into the brick wall, the entrance is through an old elevator shaft. Inside, the space is dimly lit, the decor clean and simple; dark wood, dark colors, soothing. Two large, circular paintings hang on the left wall, small tables and blue banquette seating fill the room.

Earlier this month the Detroit Free Press named Standby one of the Top 10 Best New Restaurants in Metro Detroit, tonight we’re here for cocktails only. We are seated at a cozy corner table and given cocktail menus; drinks are organized by spirits; Gin, Whiskey, Rum, Beer, etc. Ingredients for each drink are listed as well as flavor profiles–floral, tart, minty, woodsy, you get the idea. If you’re not sure, your server will help you out. Kris is having an Old Fashioned, I am giving The Last Straw a try; it’s, tart, botanical and fresh tasting—all the flavors I like.

We sit back and relax as we enjoy our drinks in this (not so) secret (anymore) spot. The city is changing quickly. It’s hard to keep up with all of the new restaurants and bars opening their doors. Detroit is an exciting place to be these days, c’mon down and be a part of it!

Tags: Amy Sacka, Cocktails, Detroit Blog, Dinner, Explore, John A & Marlene L Boll Foundation, Photography Exhibit, Restaurants, Standby, Travel, Vertical, YMCA

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Categories Drink, Eat, Visit

DETROIT: A Little Night Music

19 Apr

It’s dusk when we arrive at the Detroit Yacht Club on the banks of Belle Isle, interior lights are just beginning to glow within. The building, designed by George Mason in the Mediterranean style was completed in 1922. We enter through revolving doors, ascend a stairway and find ourselves in the main lobby. Directly in front of us is the Detroit River, the view is spectacular. It is here the fairy-tale like evening begins.Tonight the Downtown Opera Club, one of 14 opera clubs across southeast Michigan, will be performing in the ballroom. Opera clubs present performances in local communities as a way of educating and entertaining both the novice and die-hard opera enthusiast. Programs feature the operas seen on stage that season at the Michigan Opera Theatre, during the evening the host talks about the operas, piquing interest in the upcoming season.

We have a little time before the performance begins, we roam a bit taking in the beauty; amazing works of art come in form of paintings, sculptures and architecture. Peacock Alley, named after the Peacock Alley in the Waldorf Astoria where society ladies would have tea, is where a number of paintings hang, the elegant chandeliers came from Rose Terrace (the former Dodge mansion), arched windows line the exterior wall. Inside the ballroom rows of chairs have been set up in front of the massive fireplace, enormous chandeliers light the room, the gorgeous wood ceiling is over 3 stories; the room exudes an old-world charm. At the bar we have our choice of red or white wine or beer, one long table holds platters of cheeses and assorted crackers. Did I mention this event is free?

We take our seats as does the pianist, after a brief introduction music and voices join together. The acoustics and beauty of the room create an incredible dynamic for the performers. Three men and two women take turns as soloists and ensembles, singing numbers from Macbeth and Magic Flute along with songs from My Fair Lady and Carousel. The showstopper of the evening was Leo Delibes Flower Duet. I don’t think a single person moved or took a breath for the 6 or 7 minute duration of the melody; it gave me goosebumps, some were moved to tears. It seems impossible for a piano and two voices to create such an enchanting, tranquil sound. Nearly two hours later the opera club finishes with the full ensemble singing the final number.

The only proper way to end such an evening is dessert at The Whitney. This magnificent mansion has stood on this spot at the corner of Woodward and Canfield since 1894. The Romanesque Revival residence, designed by Gordon W Lloyd, was the home of lumber baron David Whitney Jr. The rose-colored exterior is fitted with a slate roof, stone carvings and Tiffany stained glass windows. The interior is even more impressive with its bronze balustraded staircase, quarter-sawn oak, English tile and 20 fireplaces. The home has been a fine dining restaurant since 1986. We’re headed to the second floor, home to the Katherine Whitney McGregor dessert parlor, named after Mr. Whitney’s daughter.

We climb the massive staircase, stopping on the landing to admire the 2-story Tiffany window, amazing woodwork and ornate light fixtures. The second floor was originally the ballroom and bedroom suites, tonight glass covered cake plates and multi-tiered stands hold cakes, tortes and individual pastries. We study the selection then are seated in a cozy candle-lit room. Our coffee is served with a tray of sugar cubes and 2 petite dishes of fresh whipped cream. The white chocolate marscapone cheesecake is topped with sliced bananas and cinnamon-roasted almonds, an amaretto glaze finishes it off. We’re also trying the miniature chocolate banana boat and the chocolate peanut butter mousse…..yum! I’ll be honest, they could serve Twinkies and we’d be happy just to be sitting here in this spectacular, grand, lavish place. Another magical night in Detroit…..