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DETROIT: Ponyride

Shop Small, Buy Local, these are phrases we hear daily; with the explosion of entrepreneurship in Detroit, it is becoming easier to do just that. At one time an individual had to have drive, a college degree and a hefty bank loan to open an independent business. These days with hard work, determination, passion and help from non-profits like Ponyride, artisans and social entrepreneurs are given the opportunity to open a business with low start-up costs. Ponyride purchased a 30,000 sq ft warehouse on Vermont for $100,000.00, space rents for approximately $0.25 per sq ft, which includes the cost of utilities. The low-cost of rent allows the tenants to concentrate on the creative side of their business without always having to worry about making their next rent payment. The mission is this: “Ponyride nurtures collaboration using shared resources, knowledge and ideas to cultivate opportunities created by the strength and crises of Detroit. Participants serve Detroit communities by sharing their craft and expertise.” In other words, individuals work as a team; they assist one another, teach classes, volunteer their time–everybody wins!

Tonight Ponyride is hosting an open-house and Makers Mart, in addition to seeing the renters spaces, pop-up businesses are also selling their wares. When we arrive the surrounding streets are lined with parked cars, lights blaze from the second story windows, we walk to the building joining up with others who are attending the event. Inside, the place is jumping! Strands of white lights criss-cross the ceiling, the crowd is packed shoulder to shoulder. To the left the space opens up into one large room, individual vendors line the walls; we find artisans selling paintings, fiber arts, jewelry, clothing and Wolf Moon Mixers, fresh juice combinations to mix with your favorite spirits. Tonight they are selling bottles of Watermelon Mint, Hibiscus Margarita Mix and Citrus Mix, they look beautiful too! We meander the maze that is the first floor, Beard Balm has a large table stacked with tins of, well, Beard Balm, a leave-in conditioner for, you guessed it-beards. They distribute their products from the building. We enter a space with a vintage band saw and miniature water towers, hhmm….. I’d like one for my yard.

Through a doorway we are greeted with the scent of fresh ground coffee from Anthology, the Smith Shop, a metalworking studio, has a huge display of pieces for sale; jewelry made from nails, housewares, hardware, belt buckles, all very cool. In addition they host classes, workshops and private lessons from their space. We see a familiar face at the Sister Pie table, Lisa makes delicious pastries, after tasting every one of her samples, we purchase a package of her Buckwheat Chocolate Chip Cookies–yum! Next we stumble upon a woodworking area, pieces of furniture are in multiple stages of completion, canning jars holding white pillar candles are set about, we recognize yet another face, this space belongs to Kaija–architect, entrepreneur, furniture maker, you name it, she is also a board member of Ponyride. A short stairway leads us to the basement, home to Beehive Recording Company. Instruments, monitors and speakers fill the large room. Recording bands for free since 2010, they have captured over 68 different artists ranging from Jazz to punk, rock and roll to hip hop.

The second floor is equally as crowded, Dirt Label has several racks filled with t-shirts, sweatshirts and caps. Detroit Denim occupies a large portion of the second floor, they design, cut, sew, and finish all of their jeans in this shop using only US sourced materials. I love the vintage industrial sewing machines, they say some of them are over 100 years old! Our noses lead us over to the Batata Shop (Batata is Spanish for sweet potato), tables are covered in orange and yellow cloths, menus list tonight’s offering, waffles made from sweet potato and whole wheat flour. Stukenborg Press is both an art studio and an educational facility that teaches letterpress techniques; the letters are fascinating to look at. We traverse the second floor through hallways and sectioned off spaces, Cyberoptix is selling ties, we watch another group as they silkscreen shirts and bags, the Sushi looks amazing….

The thing we find most intriguing the entire night is an organization called The Empowerment Plan, you may have read about it. The non-profit organization hires homeless women from local shelters and trains them to be full-time seamstresses. They manufacture a coat that transforms into a sleeping bag, which is then given out to homeless people living on the streets at no cost to them. Made from left over scraps of sound absorbing material from the Chevy Malibu and Buick Verano, the coats are self heated and waterproof, how amazing is that? I encourage you to click here and read more about it. Veronika Scott created The Empowerment plan as a 20-year-old woman in 2011, the coats are made right here.

It is a short drive to Vince’s Italian Restaurant in Southwest Detroit. A neighborhood staple since 1960, Vince’s was founded by Vincenzo and Maria Perfili. Beginning as a 4-table pizza parlor, through the years it has grown into the restaurant you see today. The dining room is decked out for Christmas, glass covers the lace tablecloths, booths and chairs are upholstered in gold fabric, murals depict life in Italy. As we glance over the menu a basket of warm bread is placed on our table, it’s the kind of bread you can make a meal out of, crispy outside, warm and tender inside, we’re going to need another basket….The combination salad is delicious; ham, salami, cheese and olives sitting atop perfectly dresses greens. The cannelloni is drenched in a creamy white sauce, the cheese has been baked to a delicate brown, the meat filling, tasty. When we have finished, the plates are clean and there isn’t a crumb of bread to be found. It’s been another great night in Detroit.

Tags: Beehive Recording Company, Detroit Denim, Detroit Entrepreneurs, Makers Mart, Ponyride, The Empowerment Plan, Vince's Italian Restaurant

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Categories Eat, Happenings

DETROIT: Boats, Bagels and Beans ??

13 Jan

When the weather turns cold we head indoors to local museums to see the latest exhibits. Today we are on Belle Isle visiting the Dossin Great Lakes Museum; closed for five months for renovation we’re excited to see what’s new. The museum is dedicated to telling the story of maritime history on the Great Lakes and the Detroit River spanning 300 years; everything from shipping fleets and industry to social history. After parking in the lot we stop at the Miss Pepsi Pavilion for a look at the first hydroplane racing boat to top 100 mph. Raced by the Dossin family in the 1950’s, she’s quite a beauty; wood is varnished to a high shine, paint scheme is red, white and blue, the dashboard surprisingly ordinary. On the lawn nearby lies the bow anchor of the Edmund Fitzgerald, it’s huge!

Once inside I am happy to see the “Gothic Room” looking better than ever; removed from the passenger steamer City Of Detroit III before it was scrapped, the room exemplifies the golden age of Great Lakes cruise ships. The vessel carried passengers between Detroit and Cleveland or Detroit and Buffalo, the Gothic room itself was originally three times this size and even had a pipe organ. The elaborate English oak carvings are done in true Gothic design, stained glass windows and unique chandeliers exude elegance. Display cases in the room contain memorabilia such as dishes, schedules and renderings of the ship. No matter how many times we come here I am still in awe of the beauty of this room!

Further into the museum old exhibits have been revamped and new ones installed, here we find hands on activities; quite popular is the interactive video display simulating a speedboat racing down the Detroit River, there’s an 18th century re-creation of a canoe that you can climb into as the early settlers did. The newest permanent exhibit called Built By The River explains the ways in which Detroiter’s have used the rivers and lakes around us, did you know that at one time the Detroit River was the busiest waterway in the world or that Detroit shipyards built more vessels that any other city in the region? All pretty cool stuff! A River’s Roar will be on display until April, I highly recommend checking it out. It’s all about the history of hydroplane racing in Detroit. For over 100 years the Detroit River and Belle Isle have featured some of the finest racing in the country during the Gold Cup–the oldest trophy in Motorsports. Boats, trophies and artifacts along with vintage programs, pins and buttons are displayed behind glass. Trophies are quite elaborate and elegant, photos of racers such as Gar Wood, Guy Lombardo, Wild Bill Cantrell and Bill Muncey hang on walls along with stories about each man.

We stop to look at the showcases filled with model ships then make our way to the former pilot house of the SS William Clay Ford, one of the city’s most noted freighters. From here we look out across the river to Ontario Canada, the sunlight dancing on the river’s surface. The entire interior is painted mint green, children love to pretend they are captain standing at the ship’s wheel. A voice comes over a speaker, we are able to listen to communication between ships on the river, you can also watch the action on the river right from home by clicking on to the Detroit River Watch Webcam.

The Detroit Institute of Bagels on Michigan Ave opened Thanksgiving week and has been busy ever since. Reworking and adding on to an existing building, the end result is a cozy space made up of exposed red brick, beam ceiling, white walls and blonde wood floor. Tables line the perimeter of the space, we hang our coats on chairs in front of a sunny window then place our order. A handwritten menu board hangs behind the counter, metal baskets overflow with plain, sesame, poppy, salt, cinnamon raisin and everything bagels–made that morning they are boiled and then baked. There are six regular and small batch flavors such as bacon cheddar or rosemary olive oil available each day. While we wait for our sandwiches to be made we peek into the open kitchen, it gleams in white and stainless steel, the bakers are finished for the day. We have ordered two different sandwiches, each taking a half we dig in; the ham, egg and cheese on a salt bagel is delicious, the bagel tender with enough filling to make it hearty. The turkey, bacon, avocado is a handful, lots of textures working together; chewy bagel, crispy bacon, creamy avocado–yum! Definitely get a new dill pickle with your sandwich, they’re excellent! Open everyday except Tuesday, give ’em a try.

Often we like to end the day with coffee, located just a few blocks away we choose Anthology Coffee in the Ponyride building on Vermont St. Outside the building a small sandwich board reads ‘Coffee’, an arrow points to a wall covered in black and white graffiti. The space inside is stark; cinderblock walls, four singular light bulbs hang above a simple counter. A chalkboard menu is surrounded by a woodplank wall, a barista is busy at work measuring and weighing coffee beans. I walk over to the counter as Kris explores the space, I order a decaf for me and an iced coffee for Kris. On the tiny counter rests a coffee grinder, scale, pots of hot water, paper filters and a variety of glass bottles. I watch with interest as the beans are ground, then placed in a filter where hot water is poured over them, I love the scent of fresh ground coffee, the process takes several minutes. As Kris wanders over to grab his drink he notices a plate of triangular bar cookies, we each take one, they go perfect with our coffee. Anthology keeps it simple: Source Roast Brew Tasty Coffee. You can’t ask for more than that!

Tags: Anthology Coffee, Belle Isle, Detroit Institute of Bagels, Dossin Great Lakes Museum, Pony Ride, Travel, visit detroit

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Categories Eat, Visit

DETROIT: Staycation…

7 Jan

There’s not a better night’s sleep to be found than a night in the Raymond C Smith Carriage house at the Inn on Ferry Street. Upon waking we dress and walk the short distance to the main house of the Inn, the John Scott House; this is where guests check in and where breakfast and refreshments are served. The house itself is an orange brick Queen Ann with a wide front porch, built in 1886-87, original owner John Scott was a well-known architect. Scott’s firm, John Scott & Co. took in a young Albert Kahn (apparently he was everywhere!) as an apprentice, but let him go because he didn’t think Kahn had a future in the business–oops! The home, 84 E Ferry, resides on land that was originally part of the Ferry Seed Company, the property was later developed into an upper class neighborhood. Today the Inn consists of four restored Victorian homes and two carriage houses, close to museums, the DMC and Wayne State University.

We enter the house through the back door, the aroma of fresh brewed coffee permeates the air, guests conversation creates a low hum. The breakfast area is lovely; walls are olive green, a fireplace of rectangular glazed tiles graces the back wall, ceiling and walls are accented with beautiful wood. We choose a table near a large window, morning light streams in. We hang our jackets on the chair backs, grab plates and fill them with items like scrambled eggs, waffles, fresh fruit, muffins and yogurt; there is also an assortment of coffee, tea and juices. As we eat, the Inns shuttle driver arrives, he is driving a group of guests downtown; the shuttle is free and will drop you off and pick you up within a 5-mile radius. When we have finished our breakfast I sip my coffee slowly as we decide how we will spend the rest of our day.

The luggage is loaded and we have checked out. We walk to the end of the block, at the corner of Woodward and Kirby we step inside the Park Shelton. Built in 1926 as a residential hotel called The Wardell, it was named for Fred Wardell, founder of the Eureka Co. Interestingly enough, Kris’s mom and dad spent their honeymoon here back in the 1940’s, even more notable, Diego Rivera lived here while working on his mural at the DIA. The hotel was later bought by Sheraton and in the 1950’s renamed The Park Shelton Hotel; accommodations were luxurious, celebrities such as Bob Hope, George Burns, Gracie Allen and Raymond Burr were guests. In the 1970’s it became apartments, in 2004 the building was redeveloped into 227 luxury condos with retail and restaurants on the ground floor. The lobby has maintained its elegance with indoor fountains, rectangular columns capped in gold leaf, ornate plaster ceilings, dark marble accents and a gorgeous antique clock that hangs near the reception desk.

Down the hall we wander into the Peacock Room, this is one of those pretty stores; gorgeous architecture and decor, clever displays, attractive merchandise for women featuring great hats, handbags, jewelry, clothing…… Everything a girl needs and then some! A few feet down, we duck into Goods LLC, mainly selling customized and Detroit-centric t-shirts, the shop also sells items from local artisans. Exiting through the Woodward door we proceed to Emerald, the newest of the shops in the Park Shelton, mainly a men’s store they have a wonderful selection of hats, gloves, scarves, ties, cuff links and shaving goods. The space is attractive, the chandelier came from an old theater downriver, it’s super cool, someone told me display cabinets came from the old downtown Hudsons. They have a nice selection of gift items and books too.

After all that shopping we find ourselves hungry, lucky for us Good Girls Go To Paris Crepes is only a few steps away. Bright red walls are covered with French movie posters, the chalkboard menus of sweet and savory crepes have grown through the years. I order at the counter as Kris finds us a table, it seems this place is always busy. Owner Torya is behind the counter making crepes today, she makes it look so easy the way she spreads the batter, adds the filling and neatly folds each one. The Seine arrives first, a simple crepe with butter and sugar, to me there’s nothing better. The Dana is filled with chicken, Brie, sun-dried tomatoes, basil and herbs, it is delicious. We drop into 14 East next, serving gourmet coffee, tea and pastries it’s also a bit of an art gallery; furniture and decor are reminiscent of Mid Century design. We order at the counter, cold brew coffee for Kris and a pour over for myself.

We are less than a block from the DIA, we decide to stop in and have a look. It’s Sunday, the museum is active with tours, drop-in workshops, drawing in the galleries and the Sunday Music Bar in Kresge Court. We observe visitors of all ages at easels creating pencil drawings with the assistance of artists. The Contemporary Art gallery is one of our favorites, spanning the mid 20th century to present day, we find great American art from abstract painting to Pop Art. After a leisurely stroll through the building it is time to call it a day. It has been a fantastic weekend get-away, and we never had to leave our home town!

Tags: Bed & Breakfast, Blogtastic, Corrado Parducci, DIA, Inn on Ferry, Midtown Shopping, Park Shelton, Restaurants, Staycation, Travel, visit detroit, Wardell Hotel

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Categories Eat, Shop

DETROIT: Lush Life

23 Dec

We are celebrating our anniversary with a little staycation; fine dining, world-class opera, a luxurious stay at a bed and breakfast. The best part is we don’t have to drive far, all of this and more can be found right here in downtown Detroit! We arrive at the Inn on Ferry Street, we are shown to our temporary quarters in the Raymond C Smith Carriage House. Built in 1892 as a carriage house, it was converted to a single family home in 1926. Today the entire second story is a three-room suite consisting of two bedrooms, full bath and sitting room–wow! Furniture is Arts and Crafts style, colors are warm, the rooms cozy and inviting. We slip out of our everyday clothes and replace them with our evening attire, one must get dressed up for a night on the town.

First opened in 1938 by Gruber brothers Lester and Sam, the London Chop House is the best-known restaurant in Detroit history. Operating for 53 years in the Murphy Telegraph Building, the legendary restaurant closed in 1991. In February 2012 an amazing thing happened, after a year of restoration and refurbishing Nico Gatzaros re-opened the Chop House, even the old phone number is back. We park on W. Congress, an illuminated awning fronts a nondescript door, we descend the stairway to a host stand where we are greeted and our coats are checked. One step into the dining room the air just feels different, the space looks much as it did in its heyday; the long oak bar and mirrored back wall are all original as are the famous circular red leather booths and banquettes, even the built-in telephone booths are working again. This place has an amazing history of guests who have dined here; locals such as Henry Ford II, the Fishers, Stroh’s, Harley Earl, sat side by side with musicians and entertainers such as Bob Hope, Gary Cooper, Frank Sinatra and John Barrymore. In 1961 James Beard named it one of the top 10 best restaurants in America; it was the epitome of fine dining and patrons dressed the part. In one newspaper clipping I read it said “Deals were done and fortunes were made over thick pieces of steak and expensive wines”. I like to think that somehow all of that history and energy is absorbed into the walls creating a mojo of its own.

We cross the room to our table, holiday decorations adorn the space, diners are dressed up for the occasion. Our server is attentive and friendly, after explaining the specials she leaves us to peruse the menu. We start with a salad, citrus marinated hearts of palm, bibb lettuce, charred bell peppers. avocado and lump crab, outstanding. I order the Salmon served with broccoli rabe, pecan pesto and beet relish, Kris chooses the Bourbon Brined Pork Loin with apricot marmalade, bacon, sweet onion and frisee salad. Both meals were very good, the service impeccable; our glasses were never empty and nary a crumb littered the table-cloth.

We have tickets to see La Traviata at the Detroit Opera House. Of all the theaters in Detroit, I think the Opera House is the most elegant. Designed by C Howard Crane (who also did the Fox, State and Orchestra Hall) it opened in 1922 as the Capitol Theatre, in addition to showing movies they also had live entertainment; both Louis Armstrong and Duke Ellington performed here. Through the years the theater changed names, it was the Paramount, Broadway Capitol and finally the Grand Circus Theater. At the end, the lovely plaster work had all been painted black and punk rock bands took the stage. When they finally shuttered the place someone neglected to turn off the water, by the time the Michigan Opera Theatre became interested in the building the orchestra pit was filled with water and most of the plaster had fallen. Jump forward to 1996, after millions of dollars spent on a remarkable (some even thought impossible) restoration, the Michigan Opera Theatre celebrated the grand opening of their new home with a performance by Luciano Pavarotti.

We enter the grand Ford Lobby, women wear fancy dresses, gowns, sequins and mink coats, men look dapper in their dark suits and colorful ties. Magnificent crystal chandeliers illuminate the space, the carpet is an exact reproduction of the original. We climb the staircase to the second floor, the view from here is dazzling; beautifully decorated Christmas trees are placed here and there, white lights wrap ornate railings, plaster is finely detailed and painted blue and cream. Inside the auditorium itself gold leaf abounds, ceiling patterns are larger here, the proscenium is painted solid gold, the curtain shimmers in red.

La Traviata premiered in Venice in 1853, tonight we are commemorating the 200th anniversary of Giuseppe Verdi, La Traviata stands as the most-performed opera around the world to date; once you see it, you’ll know why. The lights dim and the curtain rises to enthusiastic applause. One of the things I love about going to the opera is the passion of the audience; we clap for the scenery, the costumes, and of course the incredible performers. Violetta and Alfredo capture our hearts in Act I, Alfredo’s father, Giorgio Germont shows up in Act II to cause trouble, I wouldn’t dare tell you what happens in Act III ! Many songs are familiar, the music is enchanting, mesmerizing, heart-wrenching, Verdi at his best. Sung in Italian, there is little need to read the English subtitles to follow the story, I can hardly take my eyes off the cast. Almost three hours later the story comes to a close, the crowd is on its feet, cheers of “Bravo” fill the air.

The temperature outside has dropped into the teens, we make a quick dash back to the car, a night-cap would be perfect. Since we are all dressed up we will end our evening with cocktails at Roast. Located on the ground floor of the Westin Book Cadillac, Michael Symon opened this meat-centric restaurant in 2008. He has since won numerous culinary awards and can be found regularly on the Food Network and ABC’s The Chew. The bar area has a contemporary feel, the place is hopping, we manage to find two seats at the bar. iPads are scattered across the counter, it takes us a few minutes to realize these are the menus. Kris is usually good with a VO and Diet Coke, so he goes with it, I decide to scroll through the menu. After going through the lists of wine by the glass, beer, cocktails and spirits I decide simple is best and order a rum and coke. We leisurely sip our cocktails while watching the comings and goings of people in the restaurant and hotel. It has been an amazing evening, tonight we are definitely living the lush life!

Tags: Detroit, Detroit Opera House, Fine Dining, Inn on Ferry, London Chop House, Michigan Opera Theater, Music, Roast, Travel

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Categories Drink, Eat

Packard Proving Grounds

14 Dec

Detroit’s rich automotive and manufacturing history spreads far beyond the city limits. Today we are in Macomb County, Shelby Township to be exact, visiting the Packard Proving Grounds Historic Site. In 1927 the Packard Motor Car Company began constructing a testing facility on 560 acres of farmland in Shelby Twp. Designed by (don’t you know it) Albert Kahn, the steel-framed buildings were state-of-the-art in their day. The Lodge was home to proving grounds manager Charles Vincent and his family, with the start of WWII, the family left the Lodge in 1942. Packard continued to use the property until 1958, it was then sold to Curtiss-Wright, who in turn sold it to Ford Motor Company in 1961. By 1998 Ford no longer had use for the property. After a long series of negotiations the acquisition of the total site was a combination of a gift from Ford Motor Land Development Corp. and purchase by the Packard Motor Car Foundation.

It is a chilly late Autumn day, a combination open house and car show is being held on the property. A line of cars has formed gaining entrance to the event, rows of vehicles are parked on the front lawn, the familiar scent of exhaust fumes fill the air. Everywhere I look people are milling about, vintage Packards are parked along the garage area, they are beautiful, elegant, dazzling. Many have Art Deco style designs and trim, colors range from rich jewel tones to creamy neutrals, spare tires are mounted on the side like a decoration, hood ornaments are large and showy, and then there’s the chrome…….. Most models had a letter or a number for a name: Model K, N, the Dominant Six or Super Eight, later they used names like the Caribbean, Clipper and Hawk. The vehicles are a testament to the era they were designed and equally as attractive today.

The Lodge is open for tours today. We enter through the kitchen, renovation is an ongoing process, the vintage sink, stove and refrigerator are from the 1920’s. Passing through the sitting room it is pointed out that the fireplace brick was laid in Kahn’s signature herringbone design, the foyer floor is original Pewabic tile. Upstairs we find a series of bedrooms, the Vincent’s had three daughters, the youngest, Roberta is living in Arizona today, but has been back to visit the house. Windows are leaded glass, photos, books and Packard advertisements are displayed, wet plaster is under repair, yellow caution tape abounds. The master bedroom overlooks the main gate and the Princeton Elms that line the boulevard. We come to a hallway leading past several dormitory-style rooms, these were used by visitors to the Proving Grounds. Most interesting is the Radio Room. Mr. Vincent was a ham radio enthusiast; he designed and built the equipment used in the first successful air-to-ground radio-phone communication which was done at the Proving Grounds in 1929. The tour ends back downstairs in the living room, currently used as a Board Room for meetings, the room is similar to its original appearance, complete with fireplace.

Back outside we cross the courtyard to the Repair Garage, once used as an experimental and engineering laboratory, today the Johnny Trudell Orchestra is playing big band favorites, Packard’s are randomly parked throughout the building garnering much deserved attention. On view are a number of engines complete with that signature Packard script, the 1956 showroom display chassis has drawn a crowd, Kris and I catch a glimpse of the stonework that surrounded the main entrance at the original Packard building in Detroit, safe at last. On loan for the day from the Algonac/Clay Twp Historical Society is the Miss America X. On September 20, 1932 Commodore Gar Wood set a speed record of 108.48 knots for a nautical mile and 124.71 knots for a statue mile. Powered by four 12 cylinder Packard engines, they are arranged as a two bank unit of two 24-cylinder engines creating 6,400 hp. A platform allows us to get an up-close view of Miss America X, she’s a beauty! Dials, gauges and levers cover the interior, the engine gleams in orange paint, the wooden hull is varnished to a high shine. We’ll have to visit the museum soon.

Behind the building an elevated water storage tank stands high above the proving grounds, a sight familiar to me since I was a little girl. Just beyond sits a 4,000 sq ft hangar, now called the Lindbergh Hangar. In 1929 Col Charles Lindbergh visited the site to test-fly a Packard-powered airplane. At the back of the property the original timing stand and a 458 ft section of the test track remain. The second level of the timing stand provides a panoramic view of the proving grounds. Back in the day we would be overlooking a 2.5 mile oval track specifically built for high-speed testing. They say it was so well-engineered that drivers could travel around the banked curves in excess of 100 mph without holding the steering wheel. In 1928 Leon Duray set a World’s record for a closed course of 148 + mph, making the test oval the fastest in the World. Volunteers are taking visitors for a ride around the grounds in vintage Packards, we go for a spin, the drive ends and we are dropped off near the gate. Thanks to the support and donations by members of the old-car hobby, automotive historians and the local community, this site has been preserved and is now on the National Register of Historic Places; this is more than Detroit history, it is the history of our Nation.

Bad Brad’s BBQ is located nearby on 23 Mile Rd, serving up delicious beef brisket and pork shoulder, the restaurant is a wonderful addition to the area. The interior is a combination of wood planks, brick and corrugated metal, the main dining room offers tables, booths and bar seating, they also have an awesome patio. Meats are steeped in fruit wood and hickory smoke for up to 14 hours, everything on the menu is made from scratch. Our Classic BBQ sandwich is piled high with sliced brisket, a wooden skewer stuck through the middle holds it together. House made sauces are on the table, I recommend trying each and every one. The kettle style BBQ chips go nicely with the sandwich, a side of cornbread is a must!

Stony Creek Metropark is just a short drive from here, so we decide to extend the day with a walk and visit to the Nature Center. Much of Stony Creek was part of Valley Creek Farm, a weekend getaway for the Charles Hodges Sr family of Grosse Pointe from 1928 until the metroparks purchased the property in the mid 1950’s. Here we find prairies, woodlands and wetlands, trees like Norway Spruce and Norway Maple were planted by the family and are not native to the area. We begin our walk on the Reflection Trail, fallen leaves crunch under our feet, my face and hands are getting cold. A boardwalk leads to a lookout over a river, colorful leaves reflect off the water. The trail provides many places to stop and take in picturesque views. We keep our eyes open for wildlife such as birds, ducks, fish and turtles, something runs across the trail, we follow the sound and watch a cute little chipmunk have a bite to eat.We warm up a bit in the Nature Center, the building resembles a lodge, lovely wood beams make up the ceiling, large windows fill the walls, it has that “up north” feeling. Glass aquariums contain live frogs, snakes and turtles. Tall cabinets display examples of fox, ducks, hawks and owls, wow, some of them are huge! The view is tranquil, chairs are placed near windows overlooking bird feeders, I can feel myself relax as I watch the birds come and go. The scenery changes with every season.

Tags: Albert Kahn, Automobiles, Bad Brad's BBQ, Cars, Detroit History, Historic Packard Proving Grounds, Shelby Twp, Stony Creek Nature Center, Travel

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Categories Eat, Visit

DETROIT: Midtown Chill….

8 Dec

Have you ever noticed how something as simple as a cup of coffee or a glass of wine tastes so much better when you are in beautiful surroundings? And there’s nothing like a cozy public space to make you feel part of the local community. The new Living Room at the DIA accomplishes both of these things and more. As long-time members of the DIA we often find ourselves popping into the museum to check out a current exhibit or visit a favorite gallery. As a member or resident of Wayne, Oakland or Macomb county, admission is free, so you no longer need to set a whole day aside to explore the entire museum, you can drop in for an hour or an afternoon. The recent renovation of Kresge Court into Detroit’s grandest living room is just one more reason to visit this extraordinary building. Did you know the first Van Gogh painting to enter a US museum was Self Portrait (1887) right here at the DIA?

Today the sole purpose of our coming here is to have a coffee while sitting on a comfy leather sofa and do a little people watching. The space is wonderful! Originally an outdoor courtyard, the room is surrounded by elegant dark brick walls with inlaid carved stone designs, topiaries, greenery and wrought iron pergola put me in the mind of an English garden. Seating groups are spaced throughout the room, the furniture a mix of traditional and modern; power outlets are readily available. Tall wood library tables are installed with iPads, area rugs add warmth and complete the look. Here you can curl up with a good book while snacking on a cheese or chacuterie plate, meet friends for a beer or glass of wine, page through one of many art books available for your viewing pleasure while sipping a piping hot cup of Starbucks coffee. On Friday nights Tapas are served. If you’re looking for somewhere new to meet friends, do some work or just relax, this is the spot!

Our next destination is just a little way down Woodward, from now until December 28th the Detroit Artists Market (DAM) is hosting Art For The Holidays! 125 area artists have put their best creations on display for you to purchase as gifts for friends and family this holiday season. The gallery is festive, decked out in holiday lights strung from the ceiling, snacks and beverages are complimentary today. The elongated space is crowded with shoppers this afternoon. Unique items are arranged on pedestals, tables and shelves; glass pieces seem to glow under the halogen lights. The variety of the pieces is refreshing; clever items like original stuffed animal characters make me smile. There’s a colorful array of fiber articles, scarves and purses for every style, jewelry is plentiful. Photos, books and cards along with glass, ceramics, cool paintings and metal work make it easy to shop for even the most difficult to buy for. The gallery has terrific objects all year around, but I have to admit, this is my favorite time to visit.

The N’namdi Center for Contemporary Art is tucked away on E Forest in the Sugar Hill Arts District, we love this building. The fascade is limestone with gorgeous detail surrounding huge windows. The gallery showcases national and emerging local artists with a series of curated and juried exhibitions. The building also houses a performance art theater. The front room has raspberry colored walls, today it is set up like a living room; furniture is made of clocks, dozens of watch faces, lots of shells and beads, I wouldn’t dare sit on it! The main gallery is my favorite area; the ceiling is exposed beams, it looks like knotty pine, the wooden floor is silent as we walk. The current exhibit features large black-framed photographs, I feel as though I am looking directly into the subjects eyes. At the back of the space we enter a small enclosed gallery with nautical blue walls, brightly colored paintings line all four walls. We stop in often as there is always something new to see.

We are off to try the latest restaurant to open in Midtown, La Feria, on Cass Ave. Serving hot (calientes) and cold (frias) tapas, the owners have brought a little bit of Spain to Detroit. Open from 11 to 3, and then again from 5 to 11, we settled on a late lunch to hopefully avoid a long wait. There are two empty tables, we help ourselves to the high-top in the front window, the late afternoon sun warms our backs as we glance at the menu. The place is lively, tables are filled with jovial customers passing dishes and catching up with one another. The ceiling is a deep blue, a red soffit adds a splash of color above the bar, a small chalkboard calls out today’s specials. Everything on the menu sounds delicious, our waitress is super friendly and helpful in our decision making. We start with a glass of house made red Sangria, be sure to have one yourself……First to arrive is the ensalada mixta: tender greens, cucumber, red onion, hard boiled eggs and Spanish olives, sprinkled with coarse salt. The tortilla Espanola is next, two triangular slices of cold Spanish omlette with fried potatoes and carmelized onion topped with roasted red pepper strips, mmmmmm, really good! The Sabor de Espana is a charcuterie board with exceptionally good meats, cheeses and charred bread, we had the small one and it was just right for the two of us. The food is outstanding, we look forward to eating our way through the entire menu!

After all the savory food, we are in a mood for something sweet, a new gelato shop called Melt opened just down the street and is creating quite a buzz in the neighborhood. Walking the short distance I take notice of the foot traffic on the block; folks are out walking their dogs, a bag of puppy chow slung over their shoulder, undoubtedly purchased from Cass Corridog. Young couples push baby carriages, college students bear the weight of heavy backpacks after a study session. Inside, the air is scented with the aroma of coffee and sugar, walls contrast in deep red and bright white, the counter is lined with cookies and treats. The gelato case is near the back, stainless steel compartments are piled high with multi-colored flavors; grapefruit sorbetto, roasted pistachio, autumn spice, and, our choice, bourbon caramel gingersnap–it tastes even better than it sounds! Our plastic cup is piled high with the creamy substance, we sit at a table overlooking the sidewalk, for a second I forget where I am. For as long as I can remember this is the Detroit I have been dreaming of; cute little shops, great restaurants, a neighborhood ice cream shop, pedestrians crowding the streets. I have to admit there were days I had my doubts, but I never lost my faith.

Tags: art, Best Blog ever!, DAM, Detroit, DIA, La Feria, Melt, N'namdi, Restaurant, Travel

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Categories Drink, Eat, Shop

DETROIT: It’s getting better all the time….

1 Dec

These days it seems a new restaurant is opening in Detroit every couple of weeks, as dutiful citizens we must do our part to patronize these independent establishments. I mean if somebody goes through all the trouble to open a place, the least we can do is eat there, right? Today we are having a late lunch at Ottava Via on the corner of Michigan Ave and 8th Street (hence the name). Open just a short time, we are anxious to give it a try. The building itself was built sometime in the early 20th century, brown brick and white terracotta, it began life as the Dime Bank, did time as a bakery and before its current reincarnation was a pawn shop, the red-letter LOAN sign is still attached to the building. The inside has a rustic charm, architectural elements are a mix of vintage and contemporary; terazzo floors, high ceilings, communal tables and a gorgeous clock add to the atmosphere. The menu features Neapolitan style pizza baked in a stone oven, antipasti, share plates and pasta dishes. Our meal arrives quickly, the chopped salad is delicious; the greens are fresh with some crunch, the basil is a nice touch, meat is thinly sliced in bite-size pieces. The vegetarian pizza is flavorful, the crust Neapolitan-style thin, toppings include mushrooms, asparagus, onion and olives laying atop a tasty red sauce, yum!

A little way down Michigan Ave Two James Spirits, the first licensed Distillery to open in Detroit since prohibition, is serving handmade spirits in their very own tasting room. Kris and I have a seat at the circular granite bar, the bartender slides a couple of drink menus over and we have a look. Currently the selection of spirits consists of 28 Island Vodka, Old Cockney Gin and Grass Widow Bourbon, all are made in house. I order a vodka and tonic, Kris has something made with bourbon and Faygo Rock & Rye, the cocktails are excellent! The space is really cool, old wooden barrels create a dividing wall between tasting room and distillery, metal globes dangle from a ring above the bar, colorful art decorates walls. The back wall displays bottles of spirits and T-shirts for sale, most patrons are purchasing a bottle to take with them. It’s a great place to enjoy a cocktail and lively conversation.

Next stop, Detroit Farm and Garden on 21st Street in Mexicantown. Located directly behind 555 Gallery, though it is not exactly gardening season, I love to stop in and see what’s going on at the store. In addition to supplying bulk materials such as top soil, compost, mulch, sand, pea gravel and such to the local community, they offer a nice selection of tools, containers, seeds and fertilizer. Antique and reclaimed furniture pieces are found throughout the space, other items for sale include body products, art, Slow Jams Jam and canning supplies. I check my watch, the gallery is open, time to go.

Detroit has long been home to art of all mediums. In the last couple of years the art scene in the D has gained notoriety throughout the country and overseas. The 555 Center for Public Arts is a non-profit group serving both emerging and established artists. The current facility holds studio spaces for resident and renting artists, performance space, exhibition and installation space and an arts education studio, even an original Banksy piece from the old Packard Plant has been preserved and is on display. Oh yeah, the building is the former Detroit Police Department 3rd Precinct-complete with jail cells! Today we are exploring the “Eye On The D”, Seeing Detroit With New Eyes. 18 artists express what inspires them about Detroit, how they see the future of the city and what it looks like in their imagination; c’mon let’s have a look.

Just inside the door people are gathered in clusters, beverages in hand, talking excitedly about the show. A folk singer is entertaining guests in the performance space; open mic’s are held regularly on the first and third Saturday of the month. We avoid the crowd by taking a left, here jail cells are now rented out as studio space, very clever, some are fixed up as little boutiques. Wandering from cell to cell there is a great variety of things to look at; vintage apparel, paintings in oils and watercolors, drawings, photography, ceramics and handmade clothing. A curious group of crows line the floor along the back wall, some have wheels, air pressure gauges, keys and bells attached to them, there’s something about them that I like.

We cut across the back and find ourselves in the main exhibit space, the work is very personal; paintings, collages convey the artists emotions. One of the featured artists is friend, fellow blogger and a favorite Detroit photographer Amy Sacka (http://www.owenwashere.com/). Amy has three photographs in the show, I am familiar with them, I saw their debut on the Owen blog. She has a way of capturing the spirit and electricity of the people in her photos, it’s like they are live images; Mr. Detroit is my favorite! On the other side of the room an artist has created a series of vintage-looking postcards, each features a well-known image with the words “Greetings From Detroit” across the scene, captions are taken straight from negative headlines such as the bankruptcy. There is a cloth sculpture of a car, another one of a house, a video is projected onto the floor. Near the back a sculpture studio is open to visitors, the work is so life-like we are amazed. A group of heads on wooden blocks rest on a shelf, nearby a larger body waits for a head, the detail is incredible. A full size sculpture of a woman sitting in a chair will have you doing a double take. We browse the gallery one more time before calling it a night. The quality of art in Detroit is truly exceptional, and the number of places to see it continues to grow.

Tags: 555 Gallery, Detroit Farm & Garden, Distillery, Ottava Via, Travel, Two James Distillery, visit detroit

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Categories Drink, Eat

Grand Ledge: Fall Fun!

26 Nov

Once upon a time, in the sleepy little village of Grand Ledge MI, a man by the name of John Burtch had an idea; he built a one-story plank hotel, launched the steamer Dolly Varden and invited the public to discover the beauty and wonder of seven little islands residing in the Grand River; the Seven Island Resort was born. In 1877 Mr Hewings purchased the resort and launched the steamer Gertie, gone was the little hotel, replaced by the more elegant Island House Hotel, complete with a ballroom on the second floor. In addition, amenities such as rowboats, bath houses, hammocks, swings and croquet grounds were added; there was even a mineral spring on one of the islands. In 1886 Julian Mudge took possession of the resort, money was spent freely on a new dam, an addition to the Island House hotel, a causeway was built to join Second and Third island. Mr Mudge built a 3-story pagoda-like tower called the Roundhouse, the first roller coaster in Michigan was constructed over the water, starting at Second island and finishing at Third. Second island was the centerpiece of activity with the hotel, picnic area and fountain, while Third was home to the casino which hosted first run musicals and Vaudeville shows.

Yes folks, thousands of tourists came by train to this tiny resort town; side-wheel riverboats steamed up and down the river, it was the most popular resort in all of lower Michigan. In 1888 Grand Ledge became the second city, after Lansing, in MI to get electric lights. Eventually the resort became less popular, people now owned cars and could drive to other destinations. In the 1930’s the property was sold to the city, the hotel continued to be used as a community building for another 20 years, sadly none of the original buildings exist today…. In 1976, with the addition of a new gazebo, the island began to be used for festivals and activities such as the annual Color Cruise and Island Festival. Which brings us to today.

It is the second full weekend in October, the sky a powder blue umbrella overhead, the sun warms our faces as we walk from Main Street to the Island. We purchase tickets, walk across the wooden bridge and find ourselves surrounded by activity. On the right a group of llamas seem to be people-watching from their fenced in area, I stop and say hello, music plays as a group of ladies tap dance in front of the gazebo, a table of cupcakes and baked goods is tempting. An asphalt path straddles the island from one end to the other, we pause at the tip and drink in the panoramic view; nature has begun painting leaves of hardwood trees in red, yellow, orange and gold, the Grand Princess riverboat floats past on the calm Grand River. We take our time walking from the far end, a group re-enacts pioneer days; dressed in period clothing they are cooking over an open fire. A pile of animal skins and a turtle shell rest on a table, examples of items such as clothing and pouches made from the skins lay nearby. Dried fruits, nuts, peas and grains are some of the foods pioneers depended on for survival. The petting zoo is popular this morning, kids of all ages are holding bunnies, petting goats and sheep. A blacksmith invites visitors to watch as he demonstrates how to make a nail, a woman at a loom weaves fleece into yarn, an antique fire truck is on display. Further up locals have set up booths selling arts and crafts, I watch as a woman hand weaves a basket, one artist carves animal faces into walking sticks, a different blacksmith has utensils, hammers and hooks for sale, a man and woman are performing a folk song now at the gazebo.

The Grand Princess is getting ready for her next excursion, we purchase tickets and climb aboard, there are two rail-side seats available on the second level, which we gladly claim. A guide will narrate as we navigate the narrow river, she begins with some History; Grand Ledge was named after the river itself, sandstone ledges line the riverbanks are composed of Eaton sandstone and quartzite that was deposited 250 million years ago; these ledges are geologically significant in lower MI. Above the trees we see the bright blue water tower, pedestrians enjoy a river side stroll, up ahead an ancient-looking railroad bridge crosses the river, it is still used today, trees reflect on the river, the view is picturesque. Private homes are built to fit the landscape, wooden stairways are like switchbacks leading down to the water, Coho salmon pass through twice a year. The boat stops at Fitzgerald Park, some of the passengers will get off here and walk back to the festivities, the rest of us stay aboard and enjoy the peacefulness and gorgeous scenery the boat affords us.

Back on land, it is lunchtime, we passed a rustic looking place in town earlier, so that’s where we’re headed. The Log Jam Inn has one of those old-fashioned signs hanging out front that screams Americana, the building resembles a log cabin both inside and out. The restaurant is doing a brisk business today, thanks to the festival. We are seated in a booth near the door, Kris looks at the menu, I look around. I notice a charming stone fireplace, a Spartans banner hangs nearby (we are only 10 miles west of Lansing), walls are wood panels, each table is adorned with a cute little lamp, shades look like they are made of birch, ours is a canoe that holds the S & P. Our meal arrives, the turkey sandwich is served hamburger-style on a bun, piled high and topped with lettuce, tomato and a side of honey mustard it is satisfying, the portion of fries is generous, good thing because they are excellent.

Time to get a closer look at the ledges; we drive over to Front Street and park in the lot for Oak Park, here climbers are allowed to scale the 60 ft high ledges. We follow the path down to the river’s edge, the water is on our right, towering ledges on our left, fallen leaves are scattered about. The sandstone quartz ledges are golden in color some of the edges are dark, tree roots resemble hands, their fingers tightly gripping the rock, here and there a trail of crystal clear water springs from the rock, making its way to the river. In some places you can see the layers of sandstone, to me it looks like the inside of a Butterfinger, in one spot the rock has worn away forming an overhang above the path, the sun dances off the river creating a reflections upon the rock face. We come across a group of climbers securing their ropes getting ready for their ascent, two canoes are carried by the current down river. The scenery is stunning here; the autumn leaves of the trees, the golden sandstone are mirrored on the surface of the water. Large rock pieces lay broken in piles, we climb over and follow the path to its end. Once again we are in the park, we pause at the look-out one last time before heading home.

Tags: Color Cruise & Island Festival, Grand Ledge MI, Grand River, Lansing, Log Jam Inn, Pure Michigan, Rock Climbing, Seven Island Resort, Travel

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Categories Uncategorized

DETROIT: Behind closed doors…..

18 Nov

Ever driven by a cool old building and wondered what’s inside?? Us too, today we’ll get a chance to show you a few….It is DoCoMoMo Tour weekend in the United States, coast to coast the whole country is celebrating Mid-Century Modern architecture and design with 50 tours in 40 individual cities. In Michigan we have four tours going on this October weekend, today we are joining the Detroit Art Deco Society for “Modernism Reinvisioned at 1528 and 1520 Woodward” in Detroit. We meet our tour group in front of what was originally known as the Arts League Building, in 1960 The United Foundation renovated the structure, then moved their headquarters into the building; you may remember the massive U/F on the facade. Our guide, Rebecca Savage from DAADS explains the history of the building and that it went from its original classical design to Mid-Century Modern style; ground level exterior walls were finished with tiny blue tiles, the upper floors were covered with a stainless steel grill. The ground floor was once home to the Michigan Consolidated Gas Company, I am told you could come here back in the day to get free light bulbs. Today a bicycle rental station sits in front of the newly renovated building, Dan Gilbert purchased it in 2012, it is now simply called 1528 Woodward, he has wasted no time getting it ready for new tenants, Yay!

Just inside the doors we find ourselves in the lobby, original tiny blue tiles cover the right wall, elevators are stainless steel, the wood around the reception desk remains from the 1960 renovation, a seating area is arranged off to the left, the design complimentary to the existing elements. We take the elevator up to the floor inhabited by Sachse Construction; floors are polished concrete, wood is very light, much of the space is bright white accented by lime green, it looks fantastic! Desks are arranged in an open workspace, I would most certainly be distracted by the outstanding view afforded by the huge Woodward-facing windows. Near the back a giant vintage black and white photo of Detroit is used as wallpaper around and over the elevator door. The next level greets us in bright blue and lime green, walls are covered in designs from Detroit Wallpaper, seating areas sport funky, cool furniture, I would say it’s ‘groovy’, each floor has great city views.

Down a level we are led into a meeting space, original wood designs from the 60’s are still in place as are the great light boxes, my affection for the darker wood of the 60’s continues to grow. We are led down a hall, past what Rebecca calls the Lego wall, picture a wall made of massive white Lego’s and there you have it; it too was part of the 1960 renovation, reproduced during the current resto. We pause outside a door, a small sign to the right says “Sterling Cooper Room”, the door opens and indeed we feel as if we have arrived on the set of Mad Men. The room is amazing; gorgeous wood panels surround the room, the conference table is original, gorgeous, huge. Light fixtures are new versions of the old ‘sputnik’ fixtures popular in that time period. Again you have that marvelous street view. It is nice to see how the current designers have embraced the past and make it work with the present.

Back outside we walk over to 1520 Woodward, built in 1917, it was purchased by Lane Bryant in 1945 and redesigned to the current facade. It was the flagship store for the women’s clothing chain for nearly 40 years. Dan Gilbert purchased the building in 2011, having sat vacant since the 80’s much of the interior had to be gutted. An elevator awaits us in a small attractive lobby area, artwork hangs on the walls, a cool fixture lights the space, a swanky railing lines a down staircase. Currently mobile App developer Detroit Labs occupies the top two floors, today they are hosting an event so we will not be able to see their space, bummer… Instead we roam around an empty floor, a work-in-progress, so to speak. The space is wide open, you can see new plumbing and mechanicals, huge steel beams run the length of the room. On one floor old “sale” signs are still visible on some of the walls, rafters are exposed, rusty steel beams act as support columns. These first four floors are just awaiting tenants. Our tour ends here, but our adventure continues.

We could use a little pick me up, Chickpea in the D has taken over the tiny space at 2 John R formerly occupied by Good Girls Go To Paris Crepes. Serving gourmet hummus, sandwiches, soups and smoothies, it’s a great place to grab a quick lunch or snack. As we wait for our Sunny Day smoothie made from Strawberries, bananas, pineapple juice and yogurt, we try samples of the pumpkin and the asparagus hummus, both were quite good.

By the time we arrive at Detroit Vegan Soul on Agnes St our smoothie is gone and we are ready for lunch. Co-owners Erika and Kirsten started out as a meal delivery and catering company before recently opening the restaurant. The cozy little space is lovely; today sunshine pours in through the large front windows, the room is painted in earth tones of green, rust and brown, the right wall holds a series of street sign photos. The menu consists of “veganized” comfort foods; Mac-n-Cheese, collard greens, black-eyed peas, yams, they even serve catfish tofu. We sip on house made Hibiscus Punch as we wait for our food. The sesame kale salad is piled high in a shallow bowl; sun-dried tomatoes, sesame seeds and a homemade sesame dressing that is absolutely delicious. The DVS Burger is a veggie millet burger patty, cucumber, lettuce, tomato, red onion, pesto aioli served on a whole grain bun, it is hands-down the best vegetarian burger Kris and I have ever had. Served with a side of cole slaw and yam fries the combination made for a tasty and satisfying lunch!

We are driving over to the Milwaukee Junction area, named for the 1858 intersection of the Detroit & Milwaukee and Chicago, Detroit & Canada Grand Trunk Junction railroads, it became the automobile industry’s central location for manufacturing in Detroit. By 1910 Ford and Everitt-Metzger-Flanders were the world’s largest automakers, other nearby plants included Anderson Electric, Brush, Cadillac, Dodge, Hupp, Packard and Regal; their suppliers chose locations in the area, creating a hub of auto body and stamping plants. A host of machine shops producing tools, dies, jigs and fixtures for the stamping companies were also found here. While today some stamping operations remain here what we mostly find are unoccupied American industrial buildings from the late 19th century through the first half of the 20th century; buildings range from basic frame and brick to Art Moderne and Romanesque Revival designed by notable names such as Charles Agree, Smith, Hinchman & Grylls and you guessed it, Albert Kahn. There has been a movement over the last decade to convert these obsolete structures into artist studios, such as the Russell Industrial Center, and our next stop the Pioneer Building.

Located at 2679 E Grand Blvd the Pioneer Building began life in 1908 as the Trippense Manufacturing company, producing stamped metal planetariums and tellurions, in the 1920’s the company also produced open auto bodies for Ford, Chrysler and Rickenbacker. Somewhere along the way the building was renamed The Pioneer after the furniture company that once occupied it, the name has stuck ever since. Today this sturdy old structure has been divided into studios rented by artists from all over the metro Detroit area. Generally not open to the public, today is a special occasion, it is the annual open house, all are welcome. The atmosphere is festive, crowds of people fill hallways and individual studios, one room is dedicated to food, drinks and music, everyone seems to partake. We traverse the art lined hallways stopping at each studio, all mediums are represented; oil, watercolors, ceramics, photography, sculpture-you get the idea. I can barely drag myself from the studio of Teresa Petersen, her pieces are eclectic and humorous; collages, sculpture and even trading cards, each telling a story that is sure to make you laugh…a lot. In the main hall a kids area is set up, youngsters don oversized shirts and try out their painting skills. One studio features courtroom sketches from the Kilpatrick trial, the likeness and emotions captured on paper are amazing. One artist makes sculpture from found objects, it is fun to try to identify the components of a piece.

As we are about to exit the building I notice a small square of paper that says: “You’re invited to an Exclusive first look: The Historic Art Stove Building”, just around the corner at 1401 E Milwaukee, we’re on our way. We park on the grassy lot, without hesitation we enter this long vacant century-old building, it even smells old. New owners have just recently taken possession, they are on site to chat with visitors. The building was constructed in 1907, this ornate brick structure was the showroom for Art Stove’s production of the Laurel brand of cast iron stoves, ranges and furnaces; it was one of five major stove companies in Detroit, before becoming the Motor City, Detroit was known as “The Stove Capital of the World”. In 1923 Art Stove was absorbed by the Detroit Stove Company. Today the main floor sits empty sans a pile of old lumber resting in the middle of the space. Kris and I follow one of the owners as he leads us to the rotunda that served as the buildings grand entrance. We climb the dark, creaking, wooden circular stairway, it is still beautiful. The second story looks much as the first, fallen plaster, peeling paint, but somewhere beyond all that a lovely building remains, most of the wood moldings and window frames are in tact, a fireplace sits empty…for now anyways. The owners are filled with energy and determination, if they have their way a new group of studios will fill the empty rooms and artists will make themselves at home. I am looking forward to the day when we come back and see it all finished.

Tags: 1520 Woodward, 1528 Woodward, Art Stove Building, Detroit Area Art Deco Society, Detroit Blog, DoCoMoMo Tour Weekend, Pioneer Building, Travel

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Categories Happenings

Mid-Century Southfield

13 Nov

The metropolitan Detroit area is home to an extensive variety of 20th Century architecture. Today we are meeting up with the Southfield Historical Society and DoCoMoMo for the Mid-Century Modern Southfield Tour. In 1954 Northland Mall opened in the city of Southfield, it was one of the first shopping malls in the nation; with the mall in place and easy access to major freeways the city became very attractive to corporations and residents alike. Between 1940 and 1950 the population of the area had increased 200%, during the 1960’s Southfield was Michigan’s fastest growing city. It was post WWII, people were feeling adventurous, architecture had taken on a new look, buildings were designed in new shapes, using new materials such as glass, aluminum and concrete, natural light filled open spaces. Come along as we discover Southfield’s amazing collection of Mid-Century Modern buildings.

Our tour begins at the Shaarey Zedek Synagogue on Bell Rd. Built in 1961-62, the congregation hired Percival Goodman of New York to partner with Albert Kahn Associates of Detroit to design the synagogue; now considered a masterpiece of Modern design. We are led into the sanctuary, it is a large space that seats 1,100; the triangular shape is symbolic of Mt. Sinai, behind the altar stained glass forms an inner triangle, the sun shines directly on the glass; rich red, deep blues, yellow and brown are aglow. Central to the altar a metal sculpture of the burning bush hangs on a tall marble tower, letter blocks on each side represent the tablets. A representative of the church explains the symbolism of what we are seeing, she then opens the door of the Ark revealing the Torah; dressed with a sash, ornaments and a Keter (crown) they are beautiful, magnificent and to me, mysterious. Modern nuances are found throughout, gone is the blonde wood of the 1950’s, deeper brown has taken its place, rectangular cut-outs in the walls are filled with blue glass panels. The walls of the sanctuary are retractable, when opened it creates one large room that can seat 4,000 people. We exit the sanctuary and pass through the inner court, glass showcases display religious items belonging to the congregation, the pieces are lovely. The Chapel is a much more intimate space, also triangular-shaped, the ceiling is made up of exposed wood beams, walls are brick, windows are stained glass and triangular in shape, it feels a bit more private, cozy. It is time to load the bus for the rest of the tour.

Traveling down Northwestern Hwy we pass a number of Modern structures built between the late 1950’s and mid 1960’s. The driver pulls over to give us an up-close view of the Federal Mogul World Headquarters building, built in 1965 it is designed in the International style, large glass walls are encased in an open white frame. Originally the third and fourth floors appeared to ‘float’ above the ground level of the building, through the years multiple changes and additions have altered the original design. Further on, the Eaton Automotive building, built in 1965 screams mid-century design with its recessed first level and large front portico. The bus parks, we are at the former Northland Theater, built in 1966, it is one of the last theaters in Michigan to be built to seat 1,500 patrons in a single auditorium. Looking at the front entrance I can totally imagine it when it was still a theater. As we approach the building, dozens of folks are exiting, currently the home of the Southfield branch of Triumph Church, the service has just ended. Going against the flow of people we eventually make our way inside, the lobby and auditorium have changed very little; the concession stand now sells cd’s and other items related to the church, a new paint job, a few updates, but still clearly evident it was once a thriving movie theater.

We arrive at 16200 Northland Drive, the Minoru Yamasaki designed Reynolds Aluminum Regional Office. Built in 1959, it was said to be “an ode to aluminum”. One look at the exterior and there is no doubt it is a Yamasaki, three stories tall, the second and third floor float atop a terrazzo pedestal, gold anodized aluminum grills in the shape of circles wrap the upper floors. The building is sitting vacant, in 1984 Vic Tanny Health Clubs purchased the building; the walls of the first floor were pushed out to the perimeter and a swimming pool was installed, reflecting ponds were filled in, exercise equipment was set up on the upper floors. The exterior of the building looks to be in good condition, inside I am taken aback at what has transpired; the indoor pool sits empty, a drop ceiling directly above, cubicles have been set up and are now vacant. We take the stairs to the third floor, it appears a running track traces the perimeter of the building, the space is divided, by the looks of the color and design, many of the walls are original. We enter a large empty room, here we have a wonderful view of the aluminum grills; the top two rows are thicker circles, the rest are narrow and overlap. The central atrium remains, at the top a large skylight made of a series of pyramids is intact, it must have been a showstopper when the building was new. We spend our remaining time in the building noticing some of the small details that remain. The building has been vacant since 2012 and is currently for sale; as someone who admires Yamasaki’s work, it is tough to see what has become of this once graceful embodiment of Mid-Century design.

Our route continues past many more Modern buildings, Sphinx Petroleum, Abrecht, Chand and Trowell. We travel Northwestern Hwy, Evergreen and Southfield Rd before arriving in the Cranbrook Neighborhood. The Lockwood Company of Detroit constructed homes in the California Modern Style, modest ranch homes usually between 1,450 and 1,650 sq ft. The bus parks on Lone Elm, three homeowners have given permission for us to wander around the outside of their homes, these are iconic examples of Modern design; low sloping roofs, large front windows, planter boxes, courtyards and see-through garden walls. The owners have done a marvelous job maintaining the home’s character and design. This is the end of the tour; the bus drops us off at the Synagogue, we are long overdue for lunch.

Jerusalem Pizza has been serving the finest kosher pizza for over 14 years, this is our first visit. We stand inside reading the pizza selections off a menu posted high behind the counter, nothing is harder then deciding what to order when you are starving! With help from the man behind the register we choose a Cholent pizza, a salad and a salt bagel to eat immediately. With our jackets on it is still warm enough to eat outdoors; we have a seat at a wrought iron table on the sidewalk and tear into the bagel, slightly crispy, tender inside, salty and flavorful, we agree it is the best bagel we have ever eaten. The pizza arrives, cheese is bubbly and browned on the edges, toppings consist of Dijon mustard, beans, vegetarian ground beef, potato and kishke, everything works in combination to create a crispy, chewy, tasty pizza. When we have finished, we go back inside, grab a few more bagels and hit the road.

Tags: Architecture, Detroit Tours, DoCoMoMo, Mid-Century Modern, MINORU YAMASAKI, Northland, Oakland County, Reynolds Building, Shaarey Zedek Synagogue, Travel

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Categories Happenings, Visit

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