ROCHESTER: Meadowbrook Hall

31 Mar

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It had been a couple of years since our last visit to Meadowbrook Hall in Rochester MI.  One of this country’s finest examples of Tudor Revival architecture it should be on your Must Do list. Before I talk about the home itself I need to lay a little groundwork, it all begins with the Dodge Brothers……..

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John and Horace Dodge were automotive pioneers who shaped Detroit’s early automotive industry. They went from working in local machine shops, to manufacturing Evans and Dodge bicycles to opening their own machine shop in 1901. Interestingly enough (at least to me it is) they began producing stove parts (remember at one time Detroit was the Stove Capital of the US), then moved on to parts for the auto industry. Their first major customer was Ransom E Olds, in 1902 Henry Ford hired them to produce everything except the body, wheels and tires for his new vehicle. At that time Ford was short on cash, he gave the brothers 50 shares of stock in the new Ford Motor Company as payment, making them 10% shareholders in the company. In 1913 John Dodge decided not to renew their exclusive contract with Ford, John stepped down as President of the company and the brothers began the process of building their own “Dodge” vehicle. In November 1914 the first Dodge rolled of the line in Hamtramck. John was a widower and father when Matilda Rausch, secretary for the Dodge brothers, caught his eye, the two were married in 1907, the marriage produced three children. In 1920 John died of influenza, leaving Matilda a (unbelievably rich) widow at age 37, at that time he was worth in excess of $100 million dollars. 1925 was a big year for Matilda, she married Alfred Wilson and she and Anna Dodge sold their holdings in Dodge Motor Company for $146 million dollars, making Matilda one of the wealthiest women in the world.

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John and Matilda had purchased a farm estate in Rochester MI years earlier as a weekend retreat, it consisted of 1500 acres and several residences. This is where Matilda and Alfred would build their family home. William Kapp (Music Hall, Players Clubhouse) of Smith, Hinchman and Grylls was hired to design the house, Matilda requested the home be large enough to entertain 250 people and the dining room be able to hold 40 people for dinner. What she got was a magnificent, 88,000 sq ft castle, (that’s right, 88 thousand square feet) reminiscent of an English country manor home. It was built between 1926 and 1929 for a cost of $4 million dollars. Matilda insisted that all materials should be American as well as the workers. The home is filled with elaborately carved wood, stone, ornate plaster, even the details have details, 27 fireplaces, 39 chimneys and lots of Tiffany glass; she was the largest purchaser of Tiffany in the country. Ok, now we can go in…..

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We enter the home and find ourselves in the expansive foyer, a fire burns bright in the massive fireplace, a bench pulled close for those who wish to warm themselves, a pair of candelabra torchieres flank the fireplace.  The tour begins on the lower level of the home, the entertainment floor, so to speak. Ralph, our guide begins by telling us a bit of family history and how the house came to be. We move into the Ballroom, the only 2-story room in the house, to me it looks straight out of a castle; gorgeous timber ceiling, stone arches, tapestries, light fixtures of wrought iron and glass, almost medieval. The Wilson’s spared no expense when they threw a party, Tommy Dorsey and his orchestra played here with a then unknown singer named Frank Sinatra. Proceeding through the room we find ourselves in the Game Room; this is where the men would go to smoke, drink, play cards, that sort of thing. The ceiling is vaulted, windows are leaded glass, the slate floor gleams, beautiful rugs and leather couches make the room feel comfortable. As with every other room in the house it is finely detailed, trim work surrounding the door is carved with shapes of chess pieces, card suits and the like, my favorite detail? The miniature pool table that serves as a door handle!

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Back on the main floor we find ourselves in the Christopher Wren Dining Room; named after the English architect for the design style. Walls are paneled in walnut, the ceiling, well, it is absolutely stunning. I have never seen another one like it, the work of Corrado Parducci, the detail is magnificent, thick plaster designs hang heavy from above; corn and wheat so detailed you can see the grains, the cherubs have eyelashes, leaves and flowers wrap the perimeter. An amazing garland of fruit, flowers and game birds hang above the fireplace, two large chandeliers anchor the room. Family photos are found throughout the house, portraits of Matilda and Alfred hang prominently. Through a narrow doorway is the Pagoda Room, this is where the children would take their meals; walls are hand-painted, lots of windows let in the natural light, an Asian-style chandelier hangs above, it’s wonderful. Down the hall we enter Alfred’s study, this is the only room in the house that does not feature American wood, being a lumber baron, he chose English Burled Oak to cover the walls. Rectangular panels are carved with scenes representing Alfred’s life from his days in Indiana through college and beyond. A fireplace makes the room cozy, the detail in the door is impressive, and what kind of door handle does Alfred have? A log of course.

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As we walk toward Matilda’s office a window offers us a glimpse of the ballroom below, what a sight! The office is lit by a Waterford Crystal chandelier, a fireplace and desk take up residence in the space, alcoves recessed into the paneled walls hold decorative pieces. The room looks quite comfortable, it is clear Matilda had a good eye and knew what she wanted. The living room is the largest room in the house, at 1340 sq ft it still manages to feel welcoming and warm. The furniture is Chinese and looks perfectly at home in the room, I love the ceiling, it is bowed to prevent cracking, the plaster pattern is lovely. At the far end of the room is another huge fireplace, behind it is a splendid sunroom; lots of windows, the ceiling is Wormy Chestnut, pretty furniture, I can see myself reading a nice thick book in this room. At the opposite end of the room a grand piano sits off to a corner, organ pipes are concealed in the walls, open grates our only clue to what lies behind the wall. A narrow hall leads us past the original organ, the floor is wide plank, the organ is both a player organ and can be played by hand; paper organ rolls are kept in boxes behind glass doors. A charming set of three stone windows catch my eye as we pass heading into the library. One of the (many) amazing things about this house is that the furnishings are all original, the books actually belonged to Alfred and Matilda, the photos are real family photos, their dishes and personal belongings are all here for us to see! 

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Our group climbs the grand staircase to the Great Hall, great is an understatement. At the top of the staircase I turn around to face the fabulous stained glass windows, from there I look up at the plaster barrel ceiling intensely covered in a brocade-like pattern, wow! A table is set as an example of how the Wilson’s entertained. To the right down a hall is the wing where the Dodge children’s bedrooms are located, bathrooms are Rookwood Tile from Cincinnati, guest rooms allowed for them to have friends stay over. The opposite wing belonged to Matilda and Alfred, each had their own room, Alfred’s masculine as expected, and for the lady of the house, French and feminine. Rose-colored silk wallpaper covers the walls, her bed rests upon a low pedestal, it is exquisite, if I heard correctly, she has 14 closets…..Also located in this wing are the bedrooms of the Wilson’s two adopted children Barbara and Richard, along with the nanny’s room. Both Barbara and Richard are still alive, Meadowbrook Hall turns 85 this year, a celebration is planned and the children are hoping to attend.

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Matilda was very active in civic affairs and the arts, generous with her time and fortune, she built the Wilson Theatre in Detroit, now known as Music Hall. In 1957 Matilda and Alfred donated their entire 1500 acre estate, their collections and an additional $2 million dollars to found Michigan State University-Oakland, renamed Oakland University in 1963. The university opened in September 1959, 570 students enrolled that year. Upon graduation Matilda presented each student with a diamond ring. The Wilson’s continued to live at the estate until their deaths, Alfred in 1962 and Matilda in 1967, today, their legacy lives on. It’s nearly impossible to capture the beauty of this home in pictures, descriptions cannot do it justice, you’ll just have to see for yourself.

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The Royal Park Hotel in Rochester seemed like the logical place to have lunch, the boutique hotel which opened in 2004 is also designed in the English Manor House style. The exterior is brick and stone, inside you will find dark wood, rich fabrics, oriental rugs and fireplaces. We take a seat in Elliots Lounge, the menu features casual meals, sandwiches, salads, charcuterie and cheeses. We start off with the specialty sausage board; a grilled chicken and organic apple sausage served with watercress salad and sundried pear and apricot mostarda, yum! Kris digs into the RPH Sliders while I enjoy the Chili Lime Chicken sandwich, everything is well prepared and delicious, service is excellent. When we have finished, we leave the world of the rich and famous and return to reality………bummer.

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PLYMOUTH: Dinner and a Movie….

24 Mar

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Just about 26 miles west of Detroit in Wayne county lies the city of Plymouth; settled in 1825 it was named after Plymouth Massachusetts. Today this quaint town of just over 2 square miles is home to shops, restaurants, cafes, Kellogg Park and lovely historic homes. It is a beautiful day, the sky is clear, the sunshine deceiving as the temperature hovers around 20 degrees. We find a parking spot central to our planned activities and drop in at the Plymouth Coffee Bean. Since 1993 this independent coffee shop in a former residence has been providing folks with coffee, espresso drinks, pastries and light fare. It is Sunday, tables are crowded with locals sipping warm beverages and reading the weekend newspaper. We amble from room to room through the house, currently there are no open tables, we will get something to go. We order our drinks at the counter, a glass case is filled with delicious looking baked goods from red velvet cake to cookies; we have something else in mind……..

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The Alpine Chocolat Haus on Main Street serves up a delectable variety of chocolates handmade in Gaylord MI. The space is long and narrow, a large front window provides natural light and a great view of downtown. A table front and center features Easter bunnies made from every variety of chocolate. Boxed candy is found on shelves and cubbies along each wall, an extensive counter displays individual varieties of truffles, barks and clusters. Further on are freezers filled with Moomers Homemade Ice Cream, made in Traverse City MI, it has been named Best Scoop in America. Bags of Chocolat Haus Chips (potato chips dipped in chocolate) and Bruce’s Gourmet Caramel Corn line shelves, both are best sellers. Today Kris and I are just looking for something chocolate to go with our piping hot coffee. Settling on dark chocolate almond bark, a sea salt caramel and a peanut butter truffle, we are pleasantly surprised at how reasonable the prices are, the chocolate itself is outstanding!

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We walk from Main Street around Kellogg Park to Penniman Ave, we are seeing “Saving Mr. Banks” at the historic Penn Theatre. The Woodward Theatre Company purchased this plot of land back in 1926 with the intention of building a first class movie palace. Over a decade later Harry Lush purchased the property and built the theatre you see today; the Penn officially opened December 4, 1941, the movie was “Weekend in Havana”. In 1964 Margaret Wilson purchased the Penn, a couple of years later she added a concession and altered the entrance to what you see today. In 2003 the doors were closed and the fate of the theatre uncertain; thanks to a group of businessmen who purchased the building in 2005, the theatre is now rented to the non-profit Friends Of The Penn for $1 a year! After much interior renovation the single screen, 402 seat,Penn re-opened in 2006 showing current second-run movies, independent and classic films and occasional live musical performances. 

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We approach the theatre, a line of movie-goers has formed from the old-fashioned ticket window down the sidewalk, we are not the only ones gripping a warm drink with gloved hands. The Art Deco facade is gorgeous, the marquis is lit up advertising today’s film, Saving Mr. Banks, All Seats $3.00. Fortunately the line moves swiftly, inside, little if anything remains from 1941, old movie posters hang on the back wall of the lobby. The theatre has three sections of seats, an aisle-way runs down each side, it’s crowded with people, we have to go down to the third or fourth row to find two empty seats. Walls in the auditorium are now covered in red pleated material that matches the grand curtain, also in red, modern light sconces recall the Art Deco design style. Without delay the movie begins, for the next two hours we are entertained by Tom Hanks as Walt Disney and Emma Thompson as P L Traverse, author of the Mary Poppins novels. The story takes place in 1961, the clothes and cars are cool, the tunes are catchy and familiar, in the end, everyone lives happily ever after and the audience is left with a smile.

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Keeping with our historical theme, we drive over to Novi for dinner at Shiro. The restaurant operates out of an elegant Colonial Revival home, built in 1929 by Charles Rogers for his bride Harriet Thornton. The Rogers family made their fortune in canned milk, Rogers is actually credited with inventing condensed milk. The home was originally called White House Manor because it was built with the money made from the White House Milk Company. Charles died in 1942, after Harriet died the Crusoe family purchased the home and lived there for about ten years, the house then sat empty from 1973 to 1981. The Cervi brothers bought the home and turned it into a restaurant, this would be the story for the next many years; each of the owners reporting the sound of footsteps when no one was around, lights that would come on when the place was empty, they all said it was haunted. In 1998 Shiro Japanese Restaurant opened and has been there since.

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We snag a parking space close to the entrance, the home is stately, prominent, lavish, it has a southern feel to it with its tall columns and balcony. Inside, our attention is drawn to the elegant grand staircase with cherry wood banisters that curve to the second floor. There is hand carved wood work, stained glass windows and leaded glass doors. On the right is the sushi bar, the room is crowded with diners, we are seated in the room to the left; white tablecloths cover the tables, votive candles are a nice touch. We place our order and talk about the movie as we wait for our dishes to arrive. First out is the Shiro salad with a delicious ginger dressing, the kimchee pancake appetizer is enough for two, it has a really nice flavor. We chose three different sushi rolls, each a different flavor and texture, all were enjoyable. It has been a wonderful Sunday,we are lucky to live in an area that has so much to offer within a short distance.

DETROIT: Once Upon A Time……

17 Mar

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Have you ever been to the Thanksgiving Parade in downtown Detroit? If you live in the Metro Detroit area, chances are you have at least watched it on television; floats, marching bands, balloons all making their way down Woodward Ave, viewers anxiously awaiting the moment when Santa arrives. You can’t help but smile, everybody seems to be having such a grand time, no matter what the thermometer says. Thanks to The Parade Company you can take a behind-the-scenes tour of their enchanting paradeland, floats old and new all within arm’s reach. Group tours (10 or more) are made by reservation, since there are only two of us we are joining a Girl Scout troop for our journey through 200,000 sq ft of parade history and magic.

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We make our way to Huber Street and enter the driveway of what used to be the expansive Chrysler Lynch Road Assembly Plant. There is great history in the building alone, designed by Albert Kahn (really) and built in the late 20’s, it sat at the epicenter of Chrysler’s auto manufacturing domain in Detroit. On or within a stones throw of Lynch were two foundries, an axle plant, forge, marshaling center and transport facility, all owned by Chrysler.  In close proximity to Dodge main, Jefferson avenue, Mound Road Engine and Dodge Truck, imagine the beehive of activity. Even the little known Dual-Ghia, preferred by the likes of Dean Martin, Frank Sinatra and Lucille Ball, was assembled right around the corner near Grinell and Van Dyke. At one time the Lynch road plant employed over 12,000 , everything from Desoto, Dodge and Plymouth to military vehicles and parts of the Manhattan Project were built here. Most renowned for its contribution to the Muscle car era; Lynch turned out many a Road Runner, Super Bee, Charger, GTX, R/T and Superbird during its heyday. You can bet a few neighbor’s were awakened by the sounds of a 440 Six pack or 426 Hemi getting wrung out by an employee. Unfortunately, after over 50 years of production the plant became obsolete, automobiles have not been built here since the early 1980’s. Make no mistake, this plant was a major part of Detroit’s manufacturing history.

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 Our guide, Steve, introduces himself, goes over a few rules and the tour begins. A bright purple wall showcases photos of Grand Marshalls through the years; most have something to do with Michigan, Thomas Hearns, Anita Baker, Ernie Harwell and Aretha Franklin. Others such as Mickey Mouse, Lassie, Big Bird and Jessica Simpson are a few of the exceptions. We enter Studio A, this is where floats are designed and built, vibrant colors cover the walls, newspaper articles on the parade are proudly displayed. We have our first encounter with giant paper mache heads; Tom Selleck, Bo Schembechler, Sparky Anderson and Magic Johnson. We are surrounded by work spaces; a metal shop, wood shop and a station filled with enormous pieces of styrofoam. Volunteers are already busy at work creating figures for the 2014 parade. Plywood shelves hold heads of sports figures wearing baseball hats, renderings of floats show the design process from beginning to end. This former factory spreads out as far as the eye can see, bicycles and scooters are often used as a means of transportation from one end to another. 

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We get our first up close view of a float, grown-ups are just as excited as the scouts, everyone wants their picture taken in front of their favorite. We learn floats are made to be pushed, pulled or self-propelled; the Wizard of Oz is made up of several sections, we are able to peek underneath and see the automobile chassis it rides on, this is so cool! It’s hard to believe how detailed everything is, from faces to flowers it’s all beautiful. The Parade Company has built floats for such things as the Indy 500, Miracle Mile Parade, even Disney, the craftsmanship is amazing. In case you ever have a need for a float, keep in mind you can rent one for your own special occasion…… One area holds pieces of floats that have been disassembled; animals, flowers, cupcakes, pancakes and a miniature Scott Fountain all wait their turn to ride in the parade again. Small push floats representing Chevrolet automobiles are parked to one side. Crossing from Studio A to Studio B  we get a glimpse of the area where the balloons are stored. Every Thanksgiving morning at 6am they are filled and come to life; only one has ever escaped–that would be Chilly Willy who decided to head south one year. Fortunately he was recovered in Canada at Point Pelee.

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Studio B is the storage area, think of it as an enchanted kingdom straight out of a fairy tale. From the Turkey Trot float to castles, gardens, ice cream and candy, I just want to climb aboard and play. Each float is a different scene, all are assured to make you feel happy. The girls are giddy, each points out something different; then it happens–we come face to face with the old paper mache pirate heads, there are tiny shrieks and gasps, they’re kinda scary sitting there in the dark. Once assured the pirates pose no danger, we move along through floats bearing Christmas trees, elves, toys and snow, sponsored by companies such as Ford, Compuware and Quicken Loans. 

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Proceeding through the maze of floats we are coming to the end of the tour, there it is, Santa’s sleigh and nine little reindeer. I can’t tell you how many times Kris and I have awaited that sight, standing somewhere on Woodward freezing, but unwilling to leave until Santa has made his appearance. It looks so much larger here, though tempting to climb aboard the sleigh, I decide against it. This is the only parade company to design, build and store floats in the same location. Costumes are designed and manufactured here too, they have over 3,000 of them! It’s kind of quiet here today, not a lot of activity in March, but come August volunteers will work around the clock to have everything ready for the 2014 America’s Thanksgiving Parade.

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All of that walking has given us an appetite, good thing we know a place to catch lunch not far from here. Marcus Hamburgers has been at this McNichol’s location since 1929. Charles Marcus opened his doors during The Great Depression with the idea of making burgers more affordable during a difficult time. He invented an all-steak burger, rectangular shaped, that fit in a hot dog bun. He built a cast iron grill that still sits in the middle of the diner nestled between the horse shoe shaped counters. My parents used to live in the neighborhood and frequented the diner often. It doesn’t look much different today that it did back then, still serving up those famous burgers that were so popular with the local factory workers back in Detroit’s heyday. We take a seat at the counter and order up burgers and fries. Before long plates of burgers with cheese, chili, lettuce and tomato are set down before us along with bowls of finely chopped onion, relish and bottles of mustard and ketchup. As we eat, customers come and go, carry-out orders are placed and picked up, people have been eating here for over 85 years. This area of the city is nearly forgotten these days, but it’s comforting to know some things haven’t changed.

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DETROIT: Out On The Town

10 Mar

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Membership has it’s privileges….for years we have belonged to the Detroit Historical Society,  it’s enabled us to enjoy historical museums, sites and events locally and throughout the Midwest for free. Tonight we’re checking out the opening of the new exhibit “Out on the Town Drinking and Dining in Detroit Since 1920” at the Detroit Historical Museum; the entire museum, music, food and of course, drinks, are included. Non-members need only to fork over $25 for the same treatment, well worth the price of admission… Being a member also gives us access to special exhibits, programs and discounts on Behind The Scenes Tours and Historic Houses of Worship Tours. I love historical museums, they tell the story of a place; who first settled there, how they lived, how it evolved, how it became the city it is today. Both of us are fond of this building, there’s something endearing about a historical museum housed in an older building, this one was built specifically for the museum in 1951. 

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The temperature is frigid, we score the last space in the parking lot on Kirby, it’s a short walk to the door. Inside, the building has taken on a party atmosphere, greeters direct us to the coat check, food and drinks, music plays faintly in the distance. We begin on the first floor, America’s Motor City, exhibits here tell how Detroit built cars and how cars built Detroit. Folks have already filled their plates with delicious food prepared by Holiday Catering, they sit on benches in front of the “body drop” eating and watching, others carefully balance their food and drink as they wander through. We take our place in the food line, grab brown paper cartons, forks and napkins, I scoop out servings of tasty grilled vegetables with roasted garlic aioli, a fabulous pasta salad, Caesar salad with chicken and quinoa salad laced with plump dried cherries. The next table over offers wine, beer and ice-cold bottles of water. A large jar of Dutch girl donuts rests on the dessert table, the catering staff is just starting to prepare ice cream floats; a scoop of vanilla floating in your choice of Vernor’s, Faygo Root Beer, Orange or Red Pop, now that’s how we do it in Detroit!

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Passing the gorgeous mahogany Meijer clock, we make our way to the second floor; Out On The Town is in the Booth-Wilkinson Gallery. At the top of the stairs we hear the murmur of the crowd, a band plays in one of the galleries, the rooms are crowded, people stand in front of displays pointing, nodding and smiling. A collection of menu covers hang on the wall at the gallery entrance, some names are familiar, The Mauna Loa, Topinka’s, Dakota Inn, London Chop House. Others I have never heard of; Sapphire Room, Club Three 666, Mayfair, Blue Bird Inn, Tropics. The names create a sense of what Detroit was like back then; elegant, vibrant. Each section of the gallery highlights a different time period, from the Speakeasies of the Prohibition era, working men’s watering holes to the Jazz Clubs, Night Clubs and businessmen’s lunch spots. Vignettes are positioned behind glass, mannequins wear the fashions of the day, memorabilia such as menus, glasses, matchbooks and photos give a true sense of the time and place. Starting in the early days  a re-creation of the Woodbridge Tavern features a bar tender wearing a straw hat and apron, a butcher block table and seltzer bottles. The Flame Show Bar opened in 1949 and was hugely popular. Located on the corner of John R and Canfield some of the biggest entertainers of the day performed here; Billy Holiday, Ray Charles, T-Bone Walker, Louis Jordan, Della Reese, Etta James, BB King, Bo Diddly and Sam Cooke, amazing! We proceed through time and venues, jukeboxes and cigarette vending machines appear. Artifacts from nightclubs such as the Roostertail, Elmwood Club and 20 Grand Club are on display; did you know Detroit even had its own Playboy Club? A reproduction of London Chop House includes an old booth, signs and a couple of Hy Vogel’s infamous caricatures.

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Cliff Bells has set up a table off to the side, a bartender is mixing up craft cocktails, with a Manhattan in hand we hit the table of snacks Better Made has set up; pretzels, single serving bags of chips and shoestring potato chips all taste so good. Another table has an assortment of Greek finger foods; mini spinach pies, hummus, pita and salad, it looks to good to pass up. It is getting more crowded so we head down to the Streets of Old Detroit, this is probably the most popular permanent exhibit in the museum. We stroll past shop windows with bicycles and musical instruments, a showcase is filled with souvenir dishes and old Detroit postcards. A stop in the drugstore is a must, my favorite item is the antique Vernor’s dispenser. Old-fashioned street lamps light the narrow roads made of rock or logs, we pass the blacksmith, Fyfe Boots, Sanders, a barbershop and Dime store.

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We decide to take one more walk through before calling it a night. On the first floor a DJ is spinning records, modern versions of old songs, pretty cool. A large group of 20-somethings dressed to the nines arrives, all making their way to the main attraction of the evening. Back upstairs we take one last look around, we are reading about Kovac’s, Abicks, Cadieux Cafe and Anchor Bar when the Coney Islands show up. Large silver chafing dishes filled with hot dogs, buns and chili are set down on tables, chopped onions and mustard are readily available; within minutes everyone is indulging in one of Detroit’s most popular foods. What a way to end the night!

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DETROIT: Music Hall !

3 Mar

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It isn’t often we spend a Tuesday evening out on the town, tonight is special. We have tickets to see Guitar Passions at Music Hall, we are making an evening of it starting with dinner at the Detroit Seafood Market on Randolph. We park in a lot that gives us access to both Madison and Randolph, $5 and we’re good for the night. This is the Paradise Valley district, historic buildings line the streets, old-fashioned looking street lamps light our way. Inside, people have just begun filtering in, taking a seat at the bar or high-top table. We are led across the room to a private booth, curtains are open and drawn to the sides. Floor and ceiling are warm shades of wood, funky shaped booths and small tables fill the space. Contemporary in style, the colors have warm undertones, an underwater mural covers the back wall. The menu is packed with fresh fish and seafood, we dig into warm bread as we wait for our meal to arrive. Our waiter is friendly and attentive, he arrives with our food and it looks delicious. I first try a forkful of Chef Leonardo’s famous lobster mac & cheese; piled high with toasted bread crumbs, inside it is cheesy, noodles are cooked just right with tasty chunks of lobster nestled throughout. The blackened salmon with sweet chili sauce is served with jasmine rice and sautéed vegetables. We like the seasoning on the fish, the vegetables are tender and buttery tasting. We are sharing both dishes, it makes for a great combination. Kris and I bundle ourselves up, Music Hall is right around the corner, we brave the cold and walk there.

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In 1928 Matilda Dodge Wilson opened the Wilson Theatre. She hired William Kapp of Smith, Hinchman & Grylls to design the building; it was to be used for legitimate theatre and touring Broadway productions, total cost was $1.5 million dollars. Eventually the Wilson began showing motion pictures, Gone with the Wind premiered at the The Wilson in January 1940. In the mid 1940’s the Detroit Symphony Orchestra wanted its own hall, choosing The Wilson, the name was changed to Music Hall in 1946. In 1951 a new trend was sweeping the nation, Cinerama. Detroit was a huge market back then, it was the second city in the United states to have a Cinerama, New York was first, Hollywood CA was third. Alterations were made to the building, a deeply curved wide screen was installed by Cinerama engineers, at that time the cost of a movie was 95 cents, Cinerama cost $2.80; you had reserved seating and printed programs. From 1971 to 1984 Michigan Opera Theatre used the building. In 1991 a decision was made, Music Hall would be restored to its original condition. Craftsmen and artists from all over arrived on the scene, 6 stories of scaffolding filled the auditorium, the decorative ceiling was cleaned and repainted, seats were repaired and restored, in 1995 Music Hall once again opened its doors.

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The Art Deco exterior is orange and tan brick, large stone pillars are capped with traditional theatrical masks made of terracotta. Beautiful wood and glass doors grant us entry to the foyer and box office, a second set of doors leads us to the lobby. The area is surprisingly small, light-colored stone surrounds the space, chandeliers are grand, carved figures wrap the capitols of columns, exit signs are framed in brass, a portrait of Mrs. Wilson hangs prominently. From here you can either go up into the theatre or as we do, down five steps to the Jazz Cafe. Taking a seat at a table we are afforded a wonderful view of the room; walls and ceiling are cream and yellow, elegant designs painted in red and black decorate the room, Moorish arches give visitors a view into the lobby. While other patrons are finishing their cocktails, we take the stairs to the main floor of the theatre–this is one of our favorite places to see a performance, as a matter of fact we were at that very first show when Music Hall re-opened in 1995. It is as fabulous today as it was then.

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After finding our seats Kris wanders about taking photos, I sit with my head tilted back admiring the stepped ceiling beams slathered in gold leaf and colorful designs. The grand curtain hangs elegantly across the stage, the main ceiling is a series of turquoise rectangles, the back of the house is finished in walnut panels. There is one box on each side of the stage–definitely the best seats in the house; open Moorish arches are fitted with a wrought iron railing, look closely to see the W T (Wilson Theatre), a crescent wrench is formed from the T, a tribute to Matilda’s first husband John Dodge. Pendant-like fixtures hang to the side 12 lights wide, they are stunning. The lights flash, the show is about to begin.

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Tonight we are seeing Guitar Passions, three master guitarists playing Latin, Brazilian and Jazz selections, we are very fond of this type of music. The musicians are 3-time Grammy winner Sharon Isbin, guitar virtuoso Stanley Jordan and Brazil’s leading guitarist Romero Lubambo. Throughout the evening each plays solo and in combination with the other players, each showcasing their own unique style of play, the selection of music is outstanding, the talent, awe-inspiring. In one piece, Stanley Jordan plays the guitar and the piano at the same time, really! Some pieces are intense, it appears as if the instruments have come to life, possessing the hands that play them creating melodies that cast a spell over the audience, mesmerizing all who watch and listen.  The last number brought the audience to its feet, applause was loud and lengthy, earning us an encore, awesome! 

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The Hilton Garden Inn is only a short walk away, we stop in at The Chrome Grille for a nightcap. The atmosphere is casual, lighting is low, as the name predicts chrome accents are found throughout. We join the handful of customers seated at the bar and order drinks, a Spanish Coffee for me and some sort of tasty orange cocktail for Kris. It’s a nice way to wind down after a show. We engage in conversation with a hotel guest, he asks us about Detroit and we share some of the highlights of the city. When the glasses are empty and the conversation ends we call it a night–and what a great night it was!

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DETROIT: Hidden Gems

24 Feb

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Nestled away on Woodward near the Palmer Woods neighborhood is one of Detroit’s hidden gems, La Dolce Vita. Serving superb Italian cuisine, the building goes unnoticed by most passersby, but don’t be fooled, the restaurants excellent reputation keeps the place packed most of the time. We are having an early dinner on Friday evening, I made a reservation in advance. We turn in behind the building and are greeted by a valet, Kris hands him a $5 dollar bill, we head inside as the Jeep is whisked away. The warmth of the building is soothing, the outdoor temperature is hovering at 5 degrees. The host takes us to our table, large chandeliers light the patio-looking room, archways separate the dining area from the bar. Everything on the menu sounds delicious, we make our selections and nibble on fresh-baked bread. Windows overlook the garden area, the snow is piled high, in the summer there isn’t a prettier place in the city to have a meal than in their courtyard. Service is impeccable, our glasses are never empty and empty dishes are cleared quickly. Kris is having the Petto Di Pollo Alla Sorrentina; sauteed chicken breast, roasted eggplant, mozzarella and a veal-demi marinara sauce to die for. Truly outstanding, the chicken is so tender, no knife is needed. I ordered the Gnocchi Alla Bava, being a fan of both pasta and potatoes, I cannot resist. Without a doubt this is the best gnocchi I have ever had; tender pillows of heavenly deliciousness smothered in a six cheese cream sauce, I found myself grinning with every bite. We definitely have to come here more often!

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We have tickets to see the UDM Theatre Company perform Somebody/Nobody by Jane Martin at the Marygrove Theatre; this is the second hidden gem of the evening. In the early 1970’s the U of D Theatre Company and Marygrove consolidated their Fine and Performing Arts departments, they updated the existing theatre by extending the stage to accommodate larger productions. First, let’s talk about the building. Marygrove is an independent, Catholic, Liberal Arts College. The Liberal Arts Building, designed by Oscar D Bohlen, is a soaring Tudor Gothic structure that was built in 1927 of Bedford stone. The building contains classrooms, offices, studios, a library, bookstore, theatre and Sacred Heart Chapel. It is filled with traditional Gothic features such as pointed arches, ribbed vaults, high ceilings, carved decoration, corbels, capitals, tranceried windows…..ah, the beauty of it all!

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We have time to wander before the play begins; Tavernelle Rose marble runs from floor to ceiling in the main lobby, long arched corridors with gray Missouri marble floors lead us past classrooms. Brass lettering hangs on classroom doors identifying each subject, doorknobs and hardware are detailed, ornate and original as are the light fixtures. The chapel doors are open, we quietly amble in. Chandeliers line each side of the chapel, the ceiling of wood beams brings warmth to the neutral colored space. The altar, inset under another Gothic arch is elaborate, highly detailed, amazing. Candles flicker in glass containers giving the room a sense of peace. On the walk to the theatre we pass hand-carved Carrara marble statues tucked into niches in the wall, there are 8 throughout the building. Patterns repeat throughout the interior in stone, wood, plaster bronze and wrought iron; French fleur-de-lis, Oak leaves, acorns, harp, laurel wreath and the Cross, little has changed in the building over the last 87 years. It smells like school to me, books, paper…. posters are hung on walls, the heels of my shoes make clicking sounds as we walk.

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Inside the theatre we are shown to our seats, renovated in 2002 it radiates simple elegance. Classically styled with a proscenium stage and sprung floor it has everything budding thespians could want; dressing rooms, green room, stage manager room, rehearsal studio and box office. Wood panels are dark, the ceiling a soothing shade of blue, bare light bulbs glow in detailed metal fixtures, all very quaint. The lights are dimmed and the show begins, set in an L A apartment, we immediately meet the lead character Loli; a country girl looking for fame in the big city. Quickly, Sheena appears, a Hollywood starlet grown tired of the nonsense that comes with being a celebrity. Each longing for the other’s life, they form a unique friendship. Along the way we are introduced to an agent named Galaxy, a stalker and cousin Joe Don; the play has really funny moments and some hilarious one-liners. We love coming to this theatre, simple to get to, easy parking and beautiful, intimate surroundings.

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Detroit: Belle Isle Clubbing…..

17 Feb

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It’s official, on February 10 historic Belle Isle became Michigan’s 102nd State Park. The DNR will now manage the island, the state will work with the Belle Isle Conservancy and the Belle Isle Park Advisory Committee in decision-making and upcoming projects. I find it very exciting! The DNR has already begun removing felled and hazardous trees, a shelter has been re-roofed and several picnic tables refurbished. In the next 6 months we should see restoration and reopening of restrooms, clearing of debris on trails, expansion of picnic areas, new signage and lighting, this is only the beginning….YES!

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Today is Shiver On The River, all of the buildings on the island are open to the public, tours are being given at The Detroit Yacht Club. The DYC is one of the oldest and most prestigious private clubs in North America, located on an 11 acre private island in the Detroit River, the 96,000 sq ft Mediterranean-style building was designed by George Mason (Masonic Temple, Gem Theatre, Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island). The DYC was founded in 1868, this building is their fifth clubhouse, it was dedicated in 1923, the same year the concrete McArthur bridge opened, connecting the island to the city. C’mon let’s have a look!

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A long red carpet leads us to the front entrance, the building is lovely, custom-made revolving doors lead us to the first floor. We are greeted by our tour guide then head up the staircase with its gorgeous banister in the main lobby. In front of us windows overlook the Detroit River, floral carpet leads in all directions, Pewabic Tile medallions are placed high along the walls, a nautical theme is carried out throughout the building. First stop, the Trophy Room, the ornate fireplace takes center stage here, it was hand-carved in place, up close I spy a boat, anchor and rope among the carvings. Above it a painting maps out the private island’s place in the river. Trophy cases are filled with large silver cups, photos and memorabilia. Plaster walls are textured, common for the time period, wall sconces and chandelier are original. We are led to Peacock Alley, named after Peacock Alley in the Waldorf Astoria where society ladies gathered for tea, this stretch of hallway oozes elegance. The Pewabic tile floor gleams, chandeliers hang by thin chains in a line, golden leaves and roses, they are delicate, feminine, and formerly inhabited Rose Terrace. Paintings line the wall, at one time this area was called the DYC Art Gallery. 

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The indoor swimming pool is gorgeous, Olympic size, every square inch is covered in Pewabic Tile. Mary Chase Perry Stratton was a club member and agreed to provide all of the tile when the club was built; she retained control of all design and placement of tile within the building. Huge windows bring the outdoors in, the water sparkles in the light, colored tiles create an illusion of lanes across the floor of the pool. Walls are tiled half way up, a border of rectangular wave tile surrounds the room, individual hand painted tiles add personality; swans, fish and water scenes. The room is warm, chaise lounges linger pool-side, for a moment I forget it is February. 

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The Ballroom is the largest room in the clubhouse, 3-stories high with a spectacular wood beam ceiling, it is enchanting. I feel like I have wandered into a castle in a far-away land; staff members are busy setting up for what could only be a Fairy Tale wedding. The room is expansive; a gentleman sits at the baby grand piano, music quietly fills the air. The fireplace is enormous, it too was carved in place, the sailboat above a reminder of our proximity to the water. Circular chandeliers softly light the room and reflect off the polished wood floor, my mouth is agape as I take it all in, Kris is engrossed in picture-taking. Reluctantly, we move on to the Library, it is just one beautiful room after another, wood-paneled walls, built-in bookshelves and cozy seating areas complete with table lamps invite visitors to curl up with a good book. Passing through the bar area we are told it was originally a porch, a portrait of Gar Wood at age 70 hangs on the wall. The dining room is exquisite; detailed plaster work and terrazzo floors, the room was recently restored. A splendid fountain was discovered behind one of the walls during renovations, today it is out in the open for all to see. Bronze statues rest on tables in the lobby of the dining room, donated by Col. A Victory Seymor MD, he was a club member and surgeon.

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At one time the Board Room and Billiard room were located on the third floor, the space was converted to a meeting room in 1960, the highlight of the room is the doors that open up to the spectator balcony which overlooks the Ballroom. Here we get up close to the ornate, well-crafted, hand-painted beams we saw from the Ballroom floor, they are stunning. Boarding the elevator (added in 1960) we take it down to the first level where locker rooms, fitness center and Binnacle are located. We wander down a long hall, photos of past Commodores in custom frames cover the walls. Flags from other Yacht Clubs where members have visited wrap around the top of the bar, pictures of club history and historical boats hang on the Grill’s walls. FYI: the private island the DYC is built on was man-made…at that time Detroit was in the process of building skyscrapers downtown, the dirt was removed, then taken over to Belle Isle to create the island the clubhouse rests on today. Our tour guide was a former Commodore, he was filled with interesting stories and information that really made the history of the building come alive!

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Time to grab some lunch; a fundraiser for the Belle Isle Conservancy called “Hot Soup” is being held at the Flynn Pavilion; Kris drank hot chocolate here when he was a lad, I have never been inside the building, we are curious to check it out. Built in 1949, this single story, stone facade building is often credited to Eero Saarinen, in fact, the actual architect is J Robert F Swanson. A one time partner of Eliel and Eero Saarinen, he left the firm and started Swanson Associates in 1947. His wife Pipsan Saarinen (you got it, daughter and sister of the previously mentioned Eliel and Eero) oversaw the interior designs. Built to provide shelter and amenities for Summer and Winter activities, the building is a wonderful example of Mid Century Modern Design.

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Inside we are awestruck by the knotty pine plank ceiling and beams, the back wall is a grayish-colored stone that surrounds a wood fireplace surround, it’s like we’ve wandered into some cool Modern lodge somewhere up north! Horizontal bands of casement windows line the length of each wall, one side overlooks the Lake Takoma Lagoon, the other the park itself, we are stunned by what good condition everything is in. To the left big pots of soup, trays of Avalon Bread and slices of Dangerously Delicious Pies beckon to us, Stella Cafe is providing the hot chocolate. Each of us has a bowl of vegetarian chili, bread and a white chocolate Macadamia cookie, everything is delicious! What a treat the day has been, there is no end to the amazing things that can be found right here in Detroit.

DETROIT: Checkin’ Out the Fisher…

10 Feb

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Detroit has suddenly become tour-riffic; you can see the city on foot, bicycle, bus, boat or Segway. You can learn about history, architecture, where to eat or have a cocktail, you can even go behind the scenes… Today we are touring “Detroit’s largest art object” otherwise known as the Fisher Building. Built in 1928, designed by (all together now….) Albert Kahn, paid for by the Fisher brothers as a gift to the city, the building is an Art Deco masterpiece. First some stats: The building stands 28 stories tall on W Grand Blvd, it has two 11-story wings, 641 bronze elevator doors and 1,275 miles of electrical and telephone wire. It was built in 15 months by Michigan contractors and workers.

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Pure Detroit is hosting their free weekly tour, we meet our guide Ryan in the lobby, 3-stories tall with a barrel-vaulted hand-painted ceiling, it is breath-taking. Today, in a special exhibit, a group of giant paper mache heads are scattered about the main floor vying for our attention. On loan from The Parade Company, they were originally created by artists in Viareggio Italy, some date back to the 1940’s. Two clown heads greet us first, painted cartoon style, the colors are bright and glossy. Continuing on we meet a pair of reindeer, an alligator and a blue hippo, a purple bug and a bumble bee are super cute.  Further on we come face to face with the Pirates of the Big Head collection, finely detailed, they sport tattoos, gold earrings and a treasure chest. I can see the old Italian newsprint in areas where the paint has chipped away. Many are in need of restoration, the exhibit hopes to encourage individuals to ‘adopt’ a big head, making donations to support the cost of restoration.

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The tour moves onward down the long corridor, we learn the building is constructed of Minnesota granite and Maryland marble. The original theater entrance lobby with it’s fluted marble pillars is stunning; in total, 40 varieties of marble from all of the world line the interior of the building. Near the Grand Blvd entrance, three original mosaics created by Geza Morati are as beautiful as the day they were completed, a brass piece in the floor is roped off, saving it from the wear of foot traffic. On the third floor we marvel at the frescos covering the ceiling; flora, fauna, hemlock, muses and red-haired cherubs were designed by Geza Maroti and painted by Antonio and Tomas de Lorenzo, at this level we can actually touch the arches, chandeliers seem only an arms length away. Ryan tells us the back in the day the ceiling was washed with buttermilk. He goes on to explain the symbolism of the eagles, the inclusion of commerce, transportation, art, agriculture and how the building reflected the new purely American style.

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A single elevator leads to the 26th floor, we must divide into groups as the elevator cannot take everyone at once. The doors open, we find ourselves in the Reception Room; back in the day floors 25-27 had a dining room, kitchen, living room and private elevator as this is where the Fisher brothers had their offices. At one time Persian rugs and massive hand-carved desks rested on the floor, very masculine. Dark walnut paneling, scrolled plaster ceiling, a fireplace and bronze chandeliers remain, I can’t say the same for the rest of the floor. Drop ceilings cap off empty rooms, but then there’s 360 degree view of the Detroit skyline. As we move from window to window taking in the sights Ryan tells us the Fisher building was originally topped with gold-leaf faced tile. During WWII it was feared the glimmering tower would become a target for bombings, it was covered with an asphalt material; after the war, the tower was covered with green terracotta tile as you see today. The Fisher family sold the building in 1962, in 2001 the Farbman Group of Southfield purchased the structure, an interesting bit of info: David Farbman, President and CEO of the Farbman Group has a family connection to the Fisher, Albert Kahn was his Great-Grand Uncle!

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The tour ends, back on the main floor we stop in at Stella Cafe for a cup of coffee. Recently remodeled using reclaimed wood the shop is bright and pleasant. A series of 3 yellow lamps dangle above the counter, the same marble floor graces the space. Stella roasts their own coffee beans, in addition they offer a selection of teas, juices, sweets, yogurt, soup and sandwiches. We drink our coffee surrounded by the beauty of the building. Vera Jane is just around the corner, offering a unique selection of handbags, lingerie, clothing and accessories, I like to stop in anytime we are in the building. Workshop is the latest retail addition, the shop sells handmade furniture created from Detroit reclaimed lumber. Vacant houses are disassembled, the wood is removed, sanded and refinished, James Willer of Reclaim Detroit and Kevin Borsay of Pure Detroit, then create furniture from the pieces. On display are dining tables, benches, shelving and coffee tables; each piece comes with the address of the house the wood came from, cool. I also love the wallpaper which comes from The Detroit Wallpaper Co.

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We stop in at Pure Detroit to say thanks for the tour, referred to as “The Store of All Things Detroit”,  husband and wife team Kevin and Shawn were the first to create a totally Detroit-centric shop. Through the years they have grown from a single store to three, each in a landmark building, and have added Stella and Rowland Cafe to the family.Their passion for the city is obvious in everything they do. We wander among all of the clothing, books, art, Pewabic Pottery and snacks, near the counter is an awesome model of the Fisher built from Legos, groovy! Kris purchases a hat and we are off…..

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The tour and shopping have left us starving, we park in the lot at Third Street Bar to grab some lunch. The room is dimly lit, tables are made from split logs, there’s a fireplace to the left, above it logs have been sliced into thin pieces and attached to the wall creating interesting patterns. It is late afternoon, the skee ball, dart board and shuffleboard table are still. We are here for some Dangerously Delicious Pie. I walk to the back corner where I find a wall- mounted menu of savory and sweet pies, on a table, a doorbell-like button  says “press for service”, so I do. I place the order, pay the man and join Kris back at the table. Before long, two pie tins piled high with leafy green salad and a piece of pie arrive. The BBQ pork is unbelievably delicious, the meat just falls apart, it is juicy and flavorful, the crust is to die for. The ham and cheese quiche is divine, it has the same wonderful crust; you get a nice slice of pie and a generous portion of salad for just 6 bucks. As much as we would like to try a piece of one of the dessert pies, we just can’t do it. The bar is open daily, pies are served for lunch, dinner and late night, we’ll be back………

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Grand Rapids: Check it out !

3 Feb

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After a peaceful night’s sleep, we pad down to the main floor of the City Flat’s Hotel for breakfast in City Sen Lounge; not being early risers, we have the place to ourselves. A table by the window affords us a view of the going’s on up and down Monroe Center St. The sun shines brightly in the cloudless sky, folks are dressed a little lighter today as we are expecting above normal temps. Breakfast arrives, Kris is having waffles topped with macerated blackberries and a dollop of vanilla whipped cream. For myself, City Benny, poached eggs, ham and béarnaise sauce on brioche and a side of salted baked potatoes, yum!

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We take a detour through the building on the way back to our room, the sign says Ballroom at City Flats, we want to check it out. Up the double stairway we go to 77 Monroe Center, the room is stunning, not at all what we expected. Gorgeous wood panels, beams stenciled in a floral design, elegant archways line the room, columns and a balcony. The room is being prepared for a wedding later in the evening, what a snazzy place for a reception or party!

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We are checked out of the hotel, we leave the Jeep parked and walk the short distance to the Grand Rapids Art Museum (GRAM). The 125,000 sq. ft. Contemporary-style building opened October 2007, it is the world’s first Gold Certified LEED art museum. Stacked 3-stories tall we ascend the elongated stairway to the third floor where the permanent collection is on display. Light floods the galleries through glass skylight lanterns, walls are white, floors pale-colored wood, hallways are vast. Alongside permanent pieces we find selected works of art from ArtPrize 2013, chosen from 9 different venues we see paintings, drawings, photographs, sculpture and textile art. My favorite piece on the floor is by Sophia Collier, she carves water-like surfaces from acrylic block, it’s like looking at an actual piece of the water’s surface!   

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The second floor is home to temporary exhibits, featured today: Masterpieces of American Landscape Painting 1820-1950. Pieces represent America through the eyes of painters such as Thomas Cole, Martin Johnson Heade, Winslow Homer and Georgia O’Keeffe, a total of 48 paintings on loan from the prestigious collection of the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. Large gold-framed landscapes hang on gallery walls, they are absolutely lovely. 20 works of art are on a 5-year loan, pieces are by well-know artists such as Picasso, Renoir, Rodin and Mary Cassatt grace the museum. A pair of giant Orchids stand tall near the stairway, everybody wants their picture taken in front of them. We study Joey Ruiter’s Objects in Motion; prototypes of bicycles, cars and a motorcycle…. quite interesting. We both like the Modern Furniture Collection, after all, Grand Rapids is Furniture City.

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We cross over to the other side of Monroe Center to catch a coffee at Madcap. With a fine reputation for roasting, retailing and wholesaling specialty coffees, we thought we’d try ’em out. It is definitely one of those places where the hip crowd hangs, not to worry, regular folks are equally welcome. It’s a nice space, bright, lots of windows. As soon as we get inside we are treated to the scent of fresh ground coffee, burlap bags of coffee beans are stacked on the floor, the beverage menu is behind the coffee bar. Kris orders a cold brew, while I go with an iced mocha, we take a seat and plan where to go next.

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Outside the sky is the color of summer, we walk back to the ice rink, families crowd the ice, the littlest of skaters use a walker-like object until they get the hang of it. The architecture downtown is marvelous, much of it Late-Victorian in style, buildings are ornate, the Ledyard (the first location of the Grand Rapids Public Library) is outstanding! We find ourselves in front of the Amway Grand Plaza Hotel…..never pass up an opportunity to go inside! Originally called The Pantlind Hotel, it was built in 1913, know for its elegance and grandeur, it has one of the world’s largest gold-leaf ceilings. Purchased by Amway, the original building was refurbished, a glass tower added, it re-opened in 1981. The lobby is magnificent; the gold-leaf ceiling glistens in the light of the three impressive crystal chandeliers. Poinsettia surround the centrally located fountain, potted palms flank the room, wood is dark walnut, furniture is arranged in cozy settings. We peek into the ballroom, Corinthian columns and a sculptured ceiling are straight from a bygone era, the chandeliers even match the ceiling pattern.

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Gerald R Ford was the 38th President of the United States, serving from 1974 to 1977, he was the only President from Michigan. The museum bearing his name sits along the Grand River, covering his life from childhood to star football player, Naval officer to US Congressman, Vice President to President, it tells the fascinating story of Grand Rapid’s favorite son. Just inside the museum stands a section of the Berlin Wall, Christmas trees line the lobby area, a large Seal of the President of the United States hangs on a wall. We begin our tour by watching a short film on Gerald Ford in the crescent-shaped theater, it will give us the background on what we will be seeing in the exhibits upstairs.

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On the second floor the mood is set for the 1970’s; Fads such as the Pet Rock, Mood Rings, platform shoes, 8-tracks and Disco were alive and well. Photos of Janis Joplin, John Lennon and Yoko Ono represent the music of the time, Posters feature Peace signs, videos chronicle war protests and marches, these were turbulent times. Displays take us through his youth, born Leslie Lynch King, his mother later married Gerald R Ford, whom he was named after. His life was earmarked by hard work and the successes that came from it, he served 25 years as the Representative from Michigan’s 5th Congressional district. Ford was the first person appointed to the Vice Presidency after Spiro Agnew resigned amid controversy, he became President August 9, 1974 when Nixon resigned. He is the first and only person to have served as both Vice President and President without being elected. The museum is engrossing, well laid out, it is easy to follow and understand, the life-size replica of the Oval Office and Cabinet Room are pretty cool. I have to say, I think anybody visiting Grand Rapids should make it a point to come to the museum.

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The day before we passed The Grand Woods Lounge, it looked super charming, so today we are having lunch here. Resembling a cabin up north, the interior has a wilderness feel to it. Log and stone walls, several fireplaces, it is modeled after restaurants in the Pacific Northwest. We are seated at a table near a fireplace, through a door we can see the outdoor heated porch, I imagine it’s packed on the weekends. The menu consists of sharable appetizers, salads, sandwiches and entrees; our waitress is quick to take our order and bring our drinks. The Rodeo Burger is a 1/2 pound patty topped with crisp bacon, melted cheddar cheese, haystack onions and a tangy BBQ sauce, it is prepared perfectly. Alongside the burger is a generous portion of fries and a side of slaw, delicious.

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Our last stop for the afternoon is Founders Brewing Company, ranked in the top four breweries in the world, they recently opened a brand new Tap Room. We park in front of the building, we can hardly believe our eyes, it is late December, the outdoor patio is packed with customers. Inside, the German Beer Hall-inspired Tap Room is even more crowded, the room is gorgeous, the high, wood beam ceiling puts you in the mind of Germany. A glass wall allows patrons to look in on the brewing process, I love that. The line to order beer and food seems endless, we try our luck outdoors. A group of gentlemen make room for us at a table, heat lamps and fire pits keep the temperature comfortable. Before we know it our pints arrive, we are each trying a different type of Stout, both are delicious. There is a constant flow of people coming and going, the food that passes us by looks tasty…….next time. We stop in the gift shop, T-shirts bear the names of their most popular beers, clothing and accessories wear the Founders badge. People come from all over for the beer and a souvenir. We have had a wonderful weekend in Grand Rapids, but the time has come to head back to the D, we’ll be back!

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Grand Rapids: Grand Getaway !

27 Jan

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Today we are heading West across Michigan, to a thriving city named Best Place to Raise a Family by Forbes Magazine, 1 of 10 best vacation cities for beer lovers, home to five of the world’s leading office furniture companies, 2010’s most sustainable midsize city and Michigan’s second-largest Metropolis, any guesses? That’s right, Grand Rapids. With its picturesque location on the Grand River, growing foodie culture and the Art Prize competition, the city is receiving positive accolades in newspapers and magazines across the country. Once you visit you’ll understand what all the buzz is about.

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We begin our visit in East Grand Rapids, an area called Gaslight Village. Once a resort area complete with an amusement park, theatre, pavilion and steamboat rides on Reeds Lake, the land was redeveloped into Gaslight Village after the park closed and fell into disrepair. Today it is a charming little village of boutique shopping, dining, public spaces and places to purchase everyday necessities. We park on Wealthy Street in front of Ramona’s Table, where we will be having lunch. Inside the contemporary interior a corner fireplace heats the room, we order at the counter then have a seat in the sunroom. We have a lovely view of the streetscape, the sky is blue and the sun is shining, the sidewalk is busy with the hustle and bustle of pedestrians. Our food arrives at the table, the Strawberry salad is topped with sweet strawberries, candied walnuts, blue cheese and a homemade strawberry vinaigrette. The Venetian Swing sandwich is layered with ham, brie, greens, tomato and an apricot wasabi dressing served on grilled sourdough bread. They were nice enough to split the sandwich and pasta salad,  brie gently oozes from the cut side of the sandwich, I had to take a bite, yum! The team at Ramona’s concentrate on local food and flavors, everything is homemade, and delicious.

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We join the foot traffic along Wealthy and pop in and out of shops along the way, by the time we reached Mary Ann’s Chocolates, we figured it was time for dessert. It’s a darling shop with a dazzling gold-colored tin ceiling, candy fills glass cases running the length of the store, from chocolate to candied fruit slices take your pick. Kris and I head straight for the chocolate, one truffle each, they are excellent. Continuing our walk, we check out the Christmas Tree on display in the public space, in the summer people gather to enjoy the fountain, there’s always something going on here.

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Back in the Jeep we drive west into downtown Grand Rapids, over to an antique district on Century Ave SW. A huge brick building stands five-stories tall, windows line the facade, a smallish sign near the center of the building says “Antiques”. We begin at the far end, a place called Buckley & Douglas, it doesn’t seem much warmer inside than out, after a few moments I no longer notice as my attention is captured by the vast variety if items on display. Resting on worn shelving vintage blenders and toasters have been re-purposed into whimsical lights….. slick, we meander across the worn wood floor, an old Standard Oil sign, antique typewriter, desks, and tool cabinets fill the room. Some of the pieces are in nice original condition, others have been spruced up or re-worked, some just left in their rusty, patina glory. Remnants of a laboratory are found throughout the area; beakers, petri dishes, glass tubes and microscopes, stuff I don’t usually see. Kris points out the clever use of window panes as a space divider, cool.

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The next shop, Lost & Found, is an unexpected surprise, with most of the pieces ranging from the 1950’s through the 70’s, we are right in our element! At first glance it looks as if we have wandered back in time to a furniture showroom, pieces are grouped into room displays complete with lamps, wall hangings and accessories, I can’t even decide what direction to go first there’s so much I want to look at. Taking our time, we explore the extensive collection of pieces; lighting, bar stools, radios, cabinets, dishes and more. I could stay here all day, but there’s more to see…..The next couple of shops in the building are more of what you’d expect from an antique store; depression glass, dishes, figurines, books and magazines, decorative items and small pieces.

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The new Downtown Market opened just a few months ago to great fanfare. Built using reused, recycled and re-purposed materials the end result is a gorgeous two-story building filled with artisan foods, there’s even a greenhouse on the roof! We park by what will be the outdoor market in season, inside, the building has an open, airy feel, everything is a neutral color except for the splash of lime green accents. Lighting is easy on the eyes, there’s sort of a Zen feel to the place, vendors are grouped into neat spaces sans walls, it smells good in here. We begin by strolling past fresh produce, a fish market, and meats. Field & Fire Bakery has samples of whole grain bread for shoppers to taste, chocolate, a taco stand, juice bar and fresh pasta all are worthy of our consideration, but it is the Sweetie-licious Bake Shop that stops us in our tracks. Think Betty Crocker doused in pink….Vintage recipe books, aprons, rolling pins and doilies decorate the counters, did I mention the Easy-Bake Oven? Pie is the specialty here, but the oversize cookies and cupcakes appear equally delicious. It is snack time, the decision of what kind of pie to get was tough, Pumpkin Cheesecake won. What is pie without ice cream? Kris is heading over to Love’s Ice Cream for a scoop while I grab a couple of coffee’s from Simpatico Coffee, we meet at a table on the second floor. From here we overlook the entire market as we indulge in gourmet goodness from the local vendors.

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We are staying downtown at the City Flats Hotel on Monroe Center, the building, formerly the legendary Fox Jewelers Building, has been transformed into a 5-story, 28 room boutique hotel. What makes it unique is its LEED Gold Certification; the furniture and decor was all designed and manufactured with local materials and rapidly renewable resources. The majority of all finished products were manufactured in Holland MI. We like the hotel for its great decor, rooms are super quiet, the bedding is the most comfortable of anyplace we have stayed, they have a full service restaurant and bar on the first floor, and it’s centrally located downtown. Once we have checked in and relaxed for a bit we hit the street in search of dinner. It didn’t take long to find what we were looking for, XO Asian Cuisine drew us right in. It is a weekend, the restaurant is busy, we are seated quickly and given thick menus, the food on surrounding tables looks wonderful. Kris chooses a specialty sushi of the house, I go with Pad Thai, we will share both dishes. The sushi is fantastic, edible flowers decorate the plate, the noodle dish has a unique seasoning here and is quite tasty, when we can eat no more we surrender our chopsticks.

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Walking along Monroe Center St we follow the glow of the blue LED lights to the public skating rink, it is jammed with skaters. A long line forms of folks waiting to take the ice, skilled skaters show their stuff in the center of the ice as the less experienced hang onto the side railing. The snow-covered grass glows under the blue and white lights. The scene is beautiful, festive; trees throughout downtown are smothered in lights, horse pulled carriages clippity-clop over the brick streets, winter in Michigan.

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Back at our hotel, we stop at the bar for a night-cap and chat with the bartender, we talk about all the exciting changes taking place in the city. Time to get some sleep, we have so much more to do tomorrow.