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Roadtrip: Oh, Canada!

4 Sep

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When you think of long sandy beaches, perfect blue water, bikini’s and ice cream stands, Canada may not be the first place that comes to mind, after today it will. We are off in search of sun, water and relaxation, our destination: the western shores of Ontario, Canada. Never ones to miss the opportunity for a scenic drive, our journey begins in Algonac MI, it is here we board the Walpole-Algonac Ferry. Relieved to find only a few cars ahead of us, we are immediately guided onto the ferry, with the engine off and windows down we sit back and enjoy the ride. This ferry line has been crossing the St Clair River for over 100 years, today $7.00 buys us a ride to Canada. After pulling onto shore each car must pass through customs; be sure and have your enhanced driver’s license or passport ready. Once on Walpole Island, Kris has a regular route he follows, within minutes we are following the shoreline of the St Clair River, the view is breathtaking, there are no obstructions, just turquoise water as far as the eye can see. We pass through the tiny towns of Port Lambton, Sombra and Corunna, never without a river view, houses and businesses are situated on the other side of the road. Sarnia is the largest city of the bunch, we stop in at the visitors center to exchange our money and pick up a current Ontario map; there is a wealth if great tourist information, I always end up with an armload of travel guides, maps and brochures! Kris points the car northeast on highway 7, our vacation has just begun.

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The drive is easy; not a lot of traffic and good scenery, our first stop is Ipperwash Beach. Unlike any other beach I’ve ever been to, here cars are as much a part of the landscape as people. We follow the road right down to the beach, make a left turn and drive onto the hard-packed sand. Vans and sport utilities are backed up to the shoreline, making easy work of unloading coolers, folding chairs and umbrellas. It is still early in the day, so it is not crowded yet; children and dogs run up and down the sun drenched beach, sunbathers are stretched out on blankets. The thing that may surprise you is the amount of vintage tractors parked on the sand, Farmall seems to be the favorite brand. Used by locals as tow vehicles, they trailer their boats and jet skis to the lake; it’s really quite a sight! After driving to the end and back we jump on Hwy 21 and on to Grand Bend.

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The day is becoming hot and hazy, we take the left off of 21 onto Grand Bend’s Main Street, if you did not know better, you’d think you were somewhere on the Atlantic coast. Both sides of the street are lined with shops selling swimwear, sunglasses, flip-flops and souvenir t-shirts. After snatching one of the last open parking spaces, we make our way toward Lake Huron. We pass by stands selling ice cream and fries, racks of sundresses and cover-ups are out on the sidewalk, cafe tables are full of summer tourists. At last we reach the beach, the view is picture perfect. Folks have been coming here since the 1800’s, many Americans own cottages in the area. Recently, the city has spent a bunch of money on landscaping, making Grand Bend even more tourist-friendly; a new boardwalk lines the wide sandy beach, new street lamps and stone sidewalks have been installed. Picnic tables and benches rest in the warm sand, patches of dune grass are protected by small wood fences. The “beach house” is home to washrooms, refreshments and a viewing deck that provides a spectacular overlook of the lake. We climb the concrete stairs to the top, the sun sparkles off the waves as if someone has thrown glitter across the surface, from this height depth changes of the lake are clearly visible. Below, small children are building sand castles while the older kids play beach volleyball, in the distance a boat pulling a parasail streaks by, it is all fun in the sun.

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Time for lunch; the Growling Gator restaurant is located beachside, we score a table on the patio with a panoramic view, it doesn’t get much better than this! The menu has a wide variety of items, our waitress is friendly and attentive even though the place is swamped. There is plenty of activity to watch while we wait for our meal to arrive, I hear laughter drift over as kids play in the splash park, groups of bikini-clad girls walk out to the lake. Our meal arrives, our attention now focused on the food in front of us; a crispy green salad with the house dressing and a Canadian Club sandwich made with a chicken breast and peameal bacon are simply delicious and consumed far too quickly. We stroll through town on the way back to the car, stopping in to shops, enjoying the reprieve the air conditioning offers. Main Street is now lined with cars, our parking space is filled as soon as we pull out.

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In under a half hour we arrive in the quaint village of Bayfield. The town is one of those sleepy little villages that just ooze charm; weeping willows sway lazily in the gentle summer breeze, patios, decks and porches provide visitors with food, drink and respite. Buildings that house shops look timeless, as if they were planted here long ago and have grown to be part of the natural landscape. We wander in and out of shops selling items that are whimsical and artistic, passing by planters stuffed with bright green sweet potato vines, petunias and lobelia, the sweet scent of flowers carried on the gentle wind, there is a short line of people ordering ice cream cones, so many flavors to choose from. Near the end of the street we pop into a cute little bakery called The Pink Flamingo, a glass display case is filled with tempting homemade treats; Kris and I have an iced coffee and something chocolaty and delicious!

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Kryart Studio has taken an old barn and created a psychedelic masterpiece, art flows from the outdoors to the indoors, an artist is busy at work in the yard. Further on brightly colored baskets lean against the front of a store, we browse the pottery shop, then the outdoor sculptures next door. My favorite of the galleries is JMR Art Gallery, home of the Ontario artist. The selection of pieces range from glass and photography to paintings and original jewelry made by the owner herself. Here we discover an artist by the name of Catherine Shane, her vibrantly colored paintings immediately grab our attention, her work is imaginative and fun, depicting fairy-tale like places that I’d love to visit. This is the last shop open this evening, most close around 5 pm, even on weekends. We take a short drive over to the park for one last look at the lake before heading inland. The sun is starting to set, the last of the sunbathers have gone home for the night. A wooden staircase takes us down the steep bluff, past wildflowers in bloom to the empty beach below. It is quiet, peaceful, it’s just the water and us and a few other folks, enjoying the moment.

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The day has passed quickly, we are staying in London, Ontario for the next two nights, time to get a move on. Darkness has fallen, nothing left to see, so Kris gets on Hwy 4 and takes us into London. We have been coming to this city for over 20 years now, though things have changed, businesses have come and gone, one of our favorite places to eat still sits on Albert St downtown; Fellini Koolini’s. With the car parked on the street, we make our way inside, it is late, but they are still serving dinner. After making a quick decision we nibble on homemade breadsticks from a jar on the table, they are even better dipped in the seasoned olive oil, the table is covered in brown paper, Italian music, or songs sung by Italians, plays quietly in the background. I look around to see if anything is different since our last visit; Chianti bottles are still strung from the ceiling, a photo of Dean Martin hangs on a wall adjacent to a copy of the Mona Lisa, it’s still the same. Our meal arrives; the Mediterranean salad is wonderful, I love the combination of artichokes, pine nuts and chevre cheese, the dressing perfectly compliments the vegetables. The Quattro Formaggio pizza has a crispy thin crust, the mix of cheeses salty and flavorful, supremely yummy! We chit chat a bit with our waiter, he gives us a few ideas of places to check out over the next two days, I can hardly wait!

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Roadtrip: Vintage Columbus

12 Aug

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It is our last day in Columbus, we have spent the last two nights at the Short North Bed & Breakfast. Located in the trendy Short North district, this large Victorian home is in the midst of a thriving neighborhood; homes are red brick and date back to the early 20th century, High Street is home to galleries, specialty boutiques and tons of restaurants. I finish packing as the tantalizing scent of bacon climbs the staircase, in the breakfast room Trelene has prepared a feast! Glass bowls hold chunks of fresh fruit on an antique buffet, fresh brewed coffee is calling my name, morning sunlight floods the room and sparkles off the crystal chandeliers. Trelene arrives with plates of scrambled eggs, crispy bacon and buttered English muffins, there’s a homemade salsa on the table, it has just the right amount of spice and heat and tastes delicious on my eggs. When we are finished Kris loads the car, I thank our hostess and bid her farewell.

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Columbus never stands still, as often as we get here there is always something new to see. The city resides along the banks of the Scioto River and has been hard at work reconnecting downtown to the riverfront; the result is called the Scioto Mile. There are 145 acres of parkland stretching from the Arena District to the Whittier Peninsula; bikeways, pedestrian paths and boulevards make this area extremely people friendly. The Promenade leads us along the river, pavers make up the walkways, the 1920’s limestone floodwall was restored to its original Beaux Arts splendor, cafe tabletops are complete with inlaid chess/checkerboards. A stone colonnade lines Civic Center Drive, this morning the swings are all occupied, huge stone planter boxes are overflowing with hot pink Hibiscus, orange Canna’s, purple Petunias and trailing vines. Every so many feet we encounter low fountains; a marble pedestal supports a lovely arrangement of bronze leaves, in the center, clusters of fish spout water from their mouths, the sound of trickling water, soothing. Our walk continues to Bicentennial Park; home to the fabulous looking restaurant Milestone 229, rose gardens, climbing wall and an amphitheater, the main attraction is definitely the Scioto Mile Fountain.

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As human beings, I think we are naturally drawn to water, fountains are often centerpieces, gathering spots in urban areas, this is definitely true of the Scioto Mile Fountain. This 200 ft long, 15,000 sq ft  patio-splash park-public art piece-interactive fountain is the place to be. As we approach, the main source of water is coming from a stainless steel circular blossom; jets of water shoot skyward from the center, a smaller volume of water flows from the outer ring. Gradually ground level spray nozzles come to life, as does the sound of laughter, five tall stainless steel halo structures begin to throw mist from the top ring, water begins to accumulate under our feet. We watch as young and old try to figure out the sequence of the jets, passersby pause to take in the scene, diners at Milestone 229 have a perfect view. We walk to the end of the park, actually stop and smell the roses, then it’s back to the car.

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Columbus is home to some of the best  vintage stores we’ve ever come across; it’s a big part of what keeps bringing us back. Years ago we discovered one of the best stores ever in Cleveland called Flower Child; a couple of years ago they opened a second location here in Columbus, c’mon, let’s have a look! The moment I step inside I smile, this place has everything from vintage jewelry and lava lamps to art glass and tiki bars. Unlike the average antique shop, here you find the colorful, zany, Mod and sometimes wacky items from the 1950’s through the 1970’s. They do a fantastic job with their displays; instead of the usual shop where one large space is divided into dozens of small dealer spaces, they arrange it as a furniture or department store would; complete living rooms, dining rooms and bar sets, everything you need to complete your room organized into one setting. The selection of pieces is outstanding, they even make gold, avocado green and orange look tasteful and fun!  I haven’t seen a grouping yet that I wouldn’t take home…. Kris and I love the chrome and lucite table and chairs, the bamboo patio set complete with a bar and cocktail glasses is cool too, the colored glass is striking, look at all the hanging lamps! Having grown up around much of the stuff seen here, our affection runs deep. Once we have finished looking around both floors we decide to grab some lunch.

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Conveniently, we walk across High Street for our afternoon meal at Zen Cha Tea Salon, another of our regular stops when in Columbus. Inside, the space feels tranquil, tables and floors are pale wood, a flat screen TV on the back wall projects soothing images of nature. As we sit and unwind we sip our Spring iced tea, a wonderful combination of sweetened green tea, strawberries and blueberries, so good. Our meal arrives, today we are having the Miso Ramen soup with tofu, very flavorful, and the Ginger Beef Salad. Thinly sliced medium rare beef lies atop crunchy greens, drizzled with a tangy ginger dressing-delicious! Now that our stomachs are pacified, it is time to start heading north.

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As we head out of the city we make a stop at Columbus Architectural Salvage on Clara St. The 10,000 sq ft warehouse houses both interior and exterior pieces salvaged from homes and buildings that were to be torn down. When I see such magnificent pieces such as fireplace surrounds, mirrors, doors and amazing light fixtures, I can only imagine what the buildings they came out of must have been like; I am sad to see such fine examples of architecture disappear, but glad that the materials are being reused and recycled. Everything is very well organized, you can buy antique doorknobs made from glass, porcelain or brass, hardware is neatly contained in a series of drawers. A complete bowling lane rests on the floor, peg boards hold a variety of tools and accessories. Vintage bathroom sinks in pink, mint green and white rest on pedestals, a box of large film reels sits near a group of old theater seats, street signs and concrete urns await a new purpose.

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We continue up High Street into Clintonville, this neighborhood has a few more vintage stores we want to check out; first on our list is the Eclectiques Antique Mall. The building itself is 8,000 sq ft and has 37 dealers, from jewelry to postcards, you never know what you may find here. We get lucky and find a piece we have been looking for, one of those fake electric log sets that light up when plugged in, perfect for our 60’s free-standing fireplace. The basement is our favorite, this is where most of the mid-century furniture is found; bar stools with chrome legs, kidney-shaped coffee tables and chairs upholstered in frisee, it’s all so cool! We pay for our purchase, put the log in the trunk, then walk next door.

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Euro Classics Antiques is not your average antique shop, the 4,000 sq ft showroom displays gorgeous oak furniture from the 1820’s to the 1920’s, specializing in Arts and Crafts furnishings. The wood is stained dark, bookshelves are fitted with leaded glass doors, tables and chairs are stylish and sturdy. Down the stairs, the lower level has pieces from as late as the 1960’s, Kris is tempted by a bedroom set, unfortunately our SRT-4 is not the type vehicle one would haul furniture in…..The Boomerang Room is right across the street, as the name implies, the store concentrates on fabulous mid-century items. Gorgeous pieces from Broyhill, Lane, Knoll, McCobb and Herman Miller fill the shop. Shag throw rugs cover the floor, I see that the darker wood of the late 60’s and 70’s is now in vogue. I see sets of cocktail shakers, oversize lamps, modern art sculptures, and vases; I wish I could take all of it home! Speaking of home….Our visit to Columbus has been wonderful, now we are buckled in, on our way back to the D.

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Roadtrip: Historical Columbus, Ohio

6 Aug

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Morning has arrived, our list of activities is long; we dress, eat a delicious breakfast and head out the door. We drive directly over to The Ohio Statehouse located downtown on High Street, this Greek Revival building was completed in 1861 and has served as Ohio’s Capitol building ever since. State flags of Ohio wave atop flagpoles that line the walkways, large urns are crowded with tall grasses and annuals in bloom, the white limestone building looms ahead, a fountain trickles nearby, the scene is picturesque. The mercury is rising quickly, the air-conditioned interior provides immediate comfort. Our visit begins at the Statehouse Museum, the area is large; constructed of block and mortar the series of arches create a tunnel-like feeling; the arches themselves function to support the weight of the rotunda. Displays are made up of artifacts and images that tell us the history of the building and those responsible for its design and construction, along with those who have served here.

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Up the stairs we enter the Rotunda; the dome rises 120 feet above the marble floor, a single skylight bearing the Great Seal of the State of Ohio is lit up by the sun. There’s so much to take in, my eyes are transfixed by the pastel colored dome for the first few minutes. My gaze travels downward, walls are peach-colored, elaborate brass sconces resemble leaves, light glows from glass shades. Giant oil paintings grace the walls, each representing an important piece of the state’s history. Woodwork is minimal, stained dark and quite lovely. Huge stone archways lead to other sections of the building. The floor itself is a work of art, comprised of 4,957 pieces of marble, the starburst pattern in the center is the real attention-getter; there are 32 points, one for each state in the Union at the time the floor was laid. We amble the hallways, stopping in at rooms and galleries that pay tribute to Ohio’s early legislators; spaces are filled with antique portraits and period furnishings.

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 Voices lead us to the House Chamber. We strain to peek in windows, a fellow tourist points out a tiny elevator to the side gallery, we board without hesitation, the elevator comes to a stop and Kris slides the door open….Wow! From the rear balcony we have an outstanding view of the entire room; colors are muted and light. Architecturally, the room differs from the rest of the building; it is elaborate, ornate, decadent in style. The ceiling is coffered, leaves cast in plaster are three-dimensional, Corinthian columns are rich in detail, lavish chandeliers of brass, wrought iron and frosted glass hang like pendants from the ceiling. Desks date back to 1909 and reside in a semi-circle on rich floral carpet, Abraham Lincoln spoke here in 1861. We move about the room taking it in from all angles. 

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The atrium, built in 1993, connects the original Statehouse to the Senate building, here giant sconces that once weathered the elements  show great patina. We step inside the building and are face to face with the Grand Stair Hall, the double marble staircases are stunning, the ceiling, spectacular. This structure was built in 1901 as the judiciary annex, today all Senate offices are located here. For the next few minutes my feet will not move, the wall ahead a series of stacked arches, my stare finally settles on the muraled ceiling, I tip my head back studying the scenes; art, justice, agriculture and manufacturing are all represented, again a single skylight illuminates the space. Kris is busy snapping photos, I call out to him several times asking if he took a picture of this and that, he assures me he did. We ascend the grand staircase, the area is dimly lit by elegant fixtures, doors are locked but a few windows allow us access. After investigating fully, we leave the building and drive to our next destination.

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North of downtown the Ohio History Center Museum and Ohio Village give visitors a glimpse into Ohio’s past. No matter where we travel I like to visit the local history museum, it provides a wonderful connection to the people and community. The building itself has a 1970’s feel about it, large open spaces, lots of concrete and windows, kind of funky. We take the stairs to the plaza level, here we find the permanent White Castle exhibit, yes folks, White Castle began right here in Columbus Ohio in 1921! Glass cabinets  display photos of employees in uniform, advertisements, and the famous cardboard cartons those irresistible, little steamed burgers are served in. Just looking at all that memorabilia makes us hungry. Back on the main level we roam from room to room, beginning in ancient Ohio, traversing centuries to the recent past. Follow The Flag shares stories of the Ohioans who carried battle flags, with actual Civil War battle flags. Centuries of Change takes us from agriculture to the auto industry, we sit in an old wooden trolley and look back at early household items such as furniture, toasters, tv’s and vacuums.

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Just outside the museum doors Ohio Village awaits us; a recreation of a 19th century Ohio village, docents are dressed in period costume and show us what life was like in the 1800’s. Most buildings are made of wood and are simple in style; the furniture maker is also the undertaker, the owner of the general store welcomes us and tells us about the goings-on in town. The dressmakers shop has a lovely selection of material and hats. Homes and hotels are modest, we smiled at the print shop, letterpress has come full circle and is back in vogue. The gravel pathways take us past the school house, church and bank, leading us back to the museum. Time to catch a quick lunch in town then back to the bed and breakfast to freshen up.

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Summer is travel time for the Detroit Derby Girls, we make it a point to catch one out-of-state bout each season, tonight we are cheering on our home team as they take on the Ohio Roller Girls. The bout is taking place at the Ohio Expo Center at the fairgrounds, the round building is retro-cool, red lantern-type lights are scattered about the ceiling, walls are made of glass. We are relieved to find 2 open front-row seats, decked out in DDG t-shirts we are definitely in the minority. In the first bout Ohio’s Gang Green plays our Motor City Disassembly Line, sadly, our team did not fare well. The second bout started out much better, in the first half it looked as if Detroit’s Fatal Femme, Racer Mc Chaser, Roxanna Hardplace and Ghetto Barbie would be victors over Ohio’s Pearl Rogi, Kill Basa, Burnadeath and Texas Chainsaw Sasskicker. Alas, the second half did not go as well, Ohio pulled away and claimed the victory- ouch!

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We are having dinner at Shoku in Grandview,another charming Columbus district. Just a few short blocks long, it is home to independent shops, a theater and local sidewalk cafes. It is a perfect summer evening, the temperature has dipped slightly, making it ideal for patio dining. This is one of our go-to restaurants when in Columbus, we don’t need a menu to decide, Fire pot chicken and a couple of sushi rolls. Our selections arrive at the same time, the firepot chicken is lightly breaded, vegetables are crisp, smothered in a light spicy sauce it is delicious, the sushi is fresh and tasty. We linger at our table long enough for our food to settle and make room for dessert;  Jeni’s Splendid Ice ream is right across the street…….

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No visit to Columbus is complete without Jeni’s Ice Cream! The sidewalk up and down the street is crowded with folks indulging in tasty flavors such as Whiskey & Pecan, Riesling Poached Pear, Queen City Cayenne or Kris’s favorite, Brambleberry Crisp. The narrow shop is buzzing with activity, servers are busy answering questions and handing out samples, the line moves quickly. A smile appears on Kris’s face as his waffle cone is handed to him over the counter, I wait patiently as my Black & Tan sundae is prepared, Salted Caramel ice cream, dark chocolate hot fudge, hot caramel and a sprinkling of smoked almonds, love it! A sweet ending to a great day.

ROADTRIP: Hocking Hills Ohio

30 Jul

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Today we are making our escape; we are trading in stop lights, strip malls and traffic for the peace and tranquility of nature, our destination, Hocking Hills. Located about an hour southeast of Columbus Ohio, we are taking the most direct route, there will be plenty of scenic roads to travel once we reach Hocking County. Just outside of Columbus we grab a quick lunch, we head south on 33, at the town of Rockbridge we make our right onto SR374, now the fun begins! Located in the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains, Hocking Hills includes 9000 acres of State Forest land. We will spend the next several hours on roads that twist and turn, rise and fall, we’ll view sandstone cliffs, hiking trails, recess caves, deep gorges and waterfalls, yes, this is Ohio.

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Our first stop is Cantwell Cliffs, this gigantic horseshoe cliff features a 150 ft sheer drop to the valley floor, centuries of erosion have created deep valley’s, steep cliffs and an incredible rock shelter. Here the sandstone varies in color from a pale terracotta to a dark reddish-brown, there are patches of turquoise and white. We hike the trail that leads us into the shelter itself, surfaces are damp and slippery. A system of pathways has been created throughout the area, steps are carved into the rock itself, at times man has had to intervene with concrete or wood. It is Friday, so there are few visitors, we have the area to ourselves, we relish the tranquility. We look around in awe, a photo cannot do justice to all that we see, but Kris will do his best to capture the beauty. We are back on SR374, the road snakes through picturesque countryside, we follow the signs to Rock House. Each feature includes its own parking lot, signs make it easy to travel from one destination to the next.

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 Situated midway up a 150 ft cliff of blackhand sandstone Rock House is the only true cave in the park. We begin our trek by descending a long rock stairway, the surrounding area lush and jungly, we encounter other hikers, this is a popular site. We watch the others and follow their lead to the entrance of the cave; hollowed out by water, the main corridor is 200 ft long, some points are 20 to 30 ft wide. It is a difficult contrast at first, going from bright sunshine to near darkness, I hear a bat fly overhead, doves are roosting nearby. As our eyes adjust we are able to explore the area freely, it is amazing! The floor is worn smooth, probably from centuries of  human feet crossing the surface, walls are multi-hued and rough with cubby hole like spaces. I turn my back against the wall and look out what resembles a Gothic arched window, there are actually 7 of them separated by great sandstone columns. Kris follows the length of the corridor to a rock that juts out from the cave, he stands near the edge taking in the view; the ground below is dense with trees and vegetation, the sky a perfect powder blue.

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We zig and zag on SR374 until we reach Conkle’s Hollow, we follow the trail through this rugged rocky gorge said to be one of the deepest in Ohio. Everything here is so green! The valley floor is rich with Hemlock and Birch, ferns are prolific, I almost feel as if I have stumbled into some prehistoric land. The ravine is a half mile long, vertical cliffs rise skyward, it is tranquil and peaceful. There is a true sense of wilderness throughout the Hocking Hills area, we meander the roads rarely seeing another car, stop signs are few and far between. We arrive at Old Man’s Cave, probably the most popular attraction, a number of cars fill the parking lot. We amble along the trail, rocks play host to patches of moss in a variety of shades, tree roots hug layers of blackhand sandstone. Water cascades gently over worn stone to a swirling pool below, small concrete platforms look as if they are floating and act as steps to a bridge. We follow trails and overpasses straddling the creek, bridges span three levels of falls. Areas of rock appear as if they have been submerged for centuries, holes are worn through; formations remind me of underwater castles. We ascend the stairway to the cave itself, a wall made of individual rocks hugs the right side of the stairs; the site is popular for picture-taking. The trail leads us up, down and all around, when we come to the end we decide to find a place to have dinner.

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Here and there we have passed old-fashioned general stores, camp grounds and tiny villages. We are driving in the direction of the next attraction when we see a quaint little store, folks linger on the front porch drinking cold bottles of water, our thirst beckons us to stop. I wait in the car as Kris runs in for water, we are parked facing what appears to be a tiny log cabin, to the left of the screen door a sign simply reads “restaurant”. Kris returns with 2 bottles of ice-cold water and asks if I’m hungry, a question that rarely needs to be asked; the cashier recommended he check out the adjacent restaurant, so he does. When he returns to the car he says “we’re eating here”, so I grab my purse and follow him inside. This is the restaurant at the Inn at Cedar Falls, housed in two log cabins built in the 1840’s  words like quaint, charming and rustic come to mind, I mean, the place is fantastic! In a million years I never would have expected to find such a place out in the middle of nowhere. We arrive at the perfect time, there is a table available out on the patio, luck is definitely on our side. We have a seat under a large green umbrella, gardens behind us, the cabin to the front, whimsical planters are made from repurposed antiques. Mind you it is a hot June day, we left Detroit this morning and have been roaming through the wilds for the last several hours, we have to be quite a sight! Surrounding patrons are well dressed, their hair is combed, I am doubtful their shoes are caked with mud as ours are, still we greeted warmly by our waitress, nobody seems to mind that we are disheveled. We order quickly, we are famished.

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As we wait for our dinner we take a look inside the restaurant; the walls are the original log and concrete; knotty pine ceilings, hardwood floors make the tiny spaces cozy. Plaid upholstery covers dining room chairs, photos of Hocking Hills in all four seasons adorn the walls, the food smells delicious. We are sharing the house salad of the day and the smoked mozzarella, red pepper ravioli, both are absolutely wonderful. We finish our meal in record time, though we would love to linger, we have more to see before it gets dark. 

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Our next stop is Cedar Falls, this is the greatest volume waterfall in Hocking Hills and is reached by traversing 100 steps to the bottom of the gorge. We reach the bottom, delighting in the sheer rush of water as Queer Creek gushes over the blackhand sandstone, Hemlocks are plentiful. Visitors wade through the shallow water to a sandbar, getting a closer look at the falls. Ash Cave awaits us, up the stairs we go……

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I read that Ash Cave is the largest recess cave in the state of Ohio, measuring 700 ft end to end and 100 ft deep from the rear cave wall to the front edge, that’s pretty impressive. We ramble along the paved path (worth noting, the path to Ash Cave is wheelchair accessible), narrow, steep gorge walls on each side of us. We follow along, rounding a bend the space opens up, a tributary of Queer Creek spills over the rim of the cave to a pool below, the sound soft and soothing. Hemlock and Beech trees are rampant, they are tall and spindly. The cave is horseshoe-shaped, allowing tourists to duck behind the waterfall, there is no shortage of photo ops here. Dusk begins to fall just as we finish exploring, we are exhausted!

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We take the quickest route to Columbus, we are staying at the Short North Bed and Breakfast. When we arrive we are greeted by Trelene, she shows us to our room and asks us what time we’d like breakfast. After we are situated we head back downstairs for a nice glass of wine to unwind from our active day. Time to get some sleep, we have a lot to do tomorrow!

Saginaw

29 Jun

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After a peaceful nights sleep at the Webster House the car is loaded and we are on our way, a quick stop at Populace for coffee and we are headed to Saginaw. At one time Saginaw was a thriving lumber town, the nearby forests were thick with White Pine, the proximity to the river made it easy to float  logs down to the sawmills, they were then loaded onto ships and later railroad cars and sent all over the country. As lumber production began to disappear a new industry had taken hold of the area, manufacturing. Most of us are unaware at what a manufacturing hub Saginaw was, at one point the city and township were home to 12 General Motors plants and an Eaton manufacturing plant; not to mention the production of chemicals, plate glass and metal fabrication. Saginaw’s contribution to the Allies eventual victory was significant; facilities here produced over half a million M1 Carbine rifles for the US military along with gun parts, tank treads and ball screws for the Boeing B-29’s, thanks to our manufacturing base we could build it all! Through the years plants were bought and sold, many closed down, only a few continue to operate today. Saginaw struggles with the same issues so many of our once great manufacturing cities do. A trip down Jefferson Ave gives one a glimpse of Saginaw’s magnificent architecture.

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We begin our visit with a trip to the Marshall M Fredericks Sculpture Museum on the campus of Saginaw Valley State University, I bet you even know some of his work. Spirit of Detroit statue? Yep, that’s his, Christ On The Cross out in Indian River MI, that too, how about the Leaping Gazelle, aka the Levi L Barbour Memorial Fountain on Belle Isle? Uh huh, as a matter of fact, that was his very first commission. Fredericks grew up in Cleveland, graduated from the Cleveland School of Art in 1930, he traveled to Sweden to study under another great sculptor, Carl Milles (who had previously studied under Rodin in Paris). After Fredericks spent some time in Europe, he was invited by Milles to join him on staff at the Cranbrook Academy of Art in Bloomfield Hills, which he did, Fredericks resided in Birmingham MI until his death in 1998.

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We arrive at the museum, Fredericks  sculptures are scattered about the landscape, Kris recognizes the Lion and the Mouse from his childhood days at Eastland Mall. Inside, a large space is tightly filled with plaster castings for Fredericks pieces, we are familiar with many of them. Starting at one side we take our time traversing the aisles; there are a couple of castings  for The Spirit Of Detroit in different sizes, it was not unusual for Fredericks to make smaller versions of sculptures as sort of practice pieces. A down-sized version of Christ on the Cross hangs on the marble wall, the Leaping Gazelle was one of his most reproduced pieces, it is lovely even in plaster. A row of elongated figures balance on round bases, they must belong to a fountain. The left wall is windows top to bottom overlooking a pretty green space, water splashes from one of Fredericks fountains. Figures are often reaching upwards towards a higher power, animals always look friendly, we recognize the Cleveland War Memorial Fountain. The next room over is a reproduction of Fredericks sculpture studio, everything in there; tools, equipment, armatures, came from his studios in Royal Oak and Birmingham. All the steps are laid out from sketch to casting, we watch a video showing the process, it really is amazing. The gallery displays 200 works of bronze and plaster molds that span Marshall Fredericks career, we both love his work! As we depart the museum we see the Night and Day Fountain, the same one sits outside the McMorran auditorium in Port Huron, we check out the remaining outdoor sculpture and then we are off to downtown Saginaw.

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As I mentioned earlier, Saginaw has some incredible architecture, one such building is the Castle Museum. Designed by William Martin Aiken it was built in 1898 as a United States Post Office, which means, no expense was spared. Completed in the French Renaissance Revival style, this place is stunning. Saginaw’s population continued to grow, in 1937 the building was enlarged, thirty years later the building was threatened with demolition, fortunately it was transferred to the County of Saginaw and became the Castle Museum of Saginaw County History. Covering all aspects of local history they have over 100,000 objects and artifacts related to the heritage of the area, they did a fantastic job making the museum interesting to everyone, not just locals. The interior space is perfect for a museum; wide hallways, large rooms, lots of windows, the structure itself is just as interesting as the exhibits. Automobiles from different eras are displayed in the main hallway, we see architectural pieces from old buildings, photos showing the interior when it was a post office hang on the walls. We climb the circular stairway to the top floor a gold medallion decorates the center of the ceiling. Exhibits take us from the early days when Indians roamed the land to the time of lumbering, noting that in 1880 Saginaw Valley was home to 80 sawmills. My favorite section is the re-creation of Saginaw in its prime; a vegetable truck sits near the City Market, you can pretend you are taking a ride on a street car downtown. When Myer Bros. Jewelers closed in 1974 the museum obtained all of the interior counters, cabinets and mirrors, I actually feel like I am in the store, it’s beautiful! Other local shops are represented as well including Morely Bros. Hardware.

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 Back in the days when the building was a post office people actually paid their bills by sending cash in the mail….In one area we see the old safe, signs direct us up a narrow stairway, leading to an even narrower hall, from here we see tiny elongated windows that were used to ‘spy’ on employees as they were processing the mail, the government wanted to make sure all that cash got to its intended destination. The lower level is home to a large “HO” Scale operating railroad with more than 1000 feet of track, two freight-yards and realistic vintage scenery. Maintained and operated by the Saginaw Area Module Modelers it’s really cool. We walk the perimeter of the large display, there is so much to take in, trains are running in several different directions, volunteers are happy to explain all that we are seeing. Throughout the museum we see much of Saginaw’s history from furniture, photos and clothing to vehicles, toys and household goods, it has been an enjoyable visit.

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As we exit the museum our gaze falls upon another gorgeous building right behind it, this would be the Hoyt Public Library. Although Jesse Hoyt was never a permanent resident of Saginaw he and his family owned a substantial portion of the city and were involved financially in lumber, railroads, salt and buildings. Always concerned for the welfare of the community, he willed the city $100,000 for the establishment of a public library to be built on a parcel of land owned by him. The library was to be for consultation and reference only and to always bear the name Hoyt Public Library, completed in Romanesque design the library opened in 1890. We were so happy when we pulled on the door and it opened, we step inside and pause to look around, it is quite lovely. Kris begins to take photos as I wander about. A couple of employees engage us in conversation, we tell them we are fond of old buildings, they smile and tell us to have a look around. One man acts as our guide and takes us from room to room, I’m always excited when the big key ring comes out and we get to see spaces not generally open to the public. There is lots of wood and ornate plaster, a fireplace takes center stage in one of the small rooms. Completely renovated in 1997, new lighting was hung, old wooden shelves were replaced and computers were installed all the while maintaining the original Victorian motif. If you’re ever in town be sure to stop in and have a look around.

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It is late afternoon and we have yet to have lunch, we are starving! We take a drive through downtown but have no luck finding anything open on a Saturday. We cross the river  and scan the area for somewhere to eat; in no time we find ourselves at the Old Town Drive-In. This charming old-fashioned car-hop restaurant has been serving up their homemade draft rootbeer, rootbeer floats and coney dogs since 1940. The outdoor spaces are filled, so we decide to eat inside, a row of swivel bar stools line the counter, we have a seat and quickly decide what to order. Before we know it our food arrives; a coney dog, a cheeseburger and fries. We always like to try out the coney dogs at these cute family owned drive-ins, each has its own distinct coney sauce. Everything is good, we polish off the meal quickly.

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We make one last stop in town at the Saginaw Art Museum on Michigan Ave. The museum is housed in the former Ring family residence, built in the early 1900’s in the Georgian Revival style, the family donated the home to the city. There is a buzz of activity when we arrive, a wedding is about to take place in the formal gardens. Inside we are slightly disappointed to find artwork removed and areas closed off, but the place is wonderful all the same. My favorite space is the former dining room, rich Butternut paneling adorns the walls giving the room a cozy feel. We proceed through the galleries, the collection contains about 1700 pieces, American and European art being the majority of the collection. There is a nice variety on display today; paintings, sculptures, textiles and African art. One area of the modern and contemporary is filled with folding chairs this afternoon, ah, the wedding. The museum is currently closed for renovations and will re-open in the Fall, we look forward to a return visit when we will be able to see it in its entirety. We have thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Bay City and Saginaw, there was so much more than we expected to find.

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Bay City: Part II

23 Jun

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On our way to the bed and breakfast, we take a detour along the Saginaw River in search of the permanent mooring site of the USS Edson. I read that the destroyer had arrived in Bay City and was to open as the Saginaw Valley Naval Ship Museum in May. We continue to follow the river, just as we are about to give up, the enormous ship comes into view; at an overall length of 418 ft, it is quite a sight. A trailer sits off to the side, it’s early evening, we hope there’s still time to get a tour. Inside we are greeted warmly by volunteers, told we can start our tour immediately, we pay the admission and we are off. As we approach the destroyer I am taken aback by its size, our guide  is knowledgeable and friendly, he rattles off facts and figures effortlessly, here are a few; the USS Edson  is a Forrest Sherman-Class destroyer, 45 ft beam, 22 ft draught, 418 ft overall length. Commissioned in 1958, earned a reputation as a Top Gun ship, nicknamed “The Destroyer” and “The Grey Ghost of the Vietnamese Coast” as a member of the US Pacific Fleet, decommissioned in 1988.

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We go inside the ship, everything is painted the same shade of grey, hallways are narrow, the low ceiling is thick with wiring. We peek inside a series of different rooms, in some, walls are covered in nautical charts, in others bunks hang from chains and are stacked three high, officers had it better, one bed and their own bathroom. Everywhere I look I see switches, dials, gauges and knobs. As we walk our guide tells us stories about the Edson and the men who temporarily called the ship home. They had everything they needed; a barbershop, doctor, dentist, they could buy a candy bar and mail letters. We enter the galley area, there are maybe a dozen booths where the men would take their meals, with a crew of 17 officers and 218 men, they had to eat in shifts. We go down to the engine room where the 70,000 horsepower Worthington steam turbines are located, these monsters are capable of powering this massive ship to nearly 50 miles per hour, Wow, can’t imagine how loud it must have been down there, not to mention the heat. The pilot house is huge, we peer out the windshield at the Saginaw River, passing boats blow their horns and passengers wave as they pass. The Saginaw valley was home to many shipyards, the former Defoe Shipbuilding Company built many ships for the US Navy, making Bay City a perfect home for the USS Edson.

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We make our way back downtown to Populace Cafe on Washington Ave, time for a coffee break. Opened in 2012 the original owner ran the cafe, the wholesale business and most importantly roasted all the coffee. Though he still owns and runs Populace Coffee Company he sold the cafe to his barista, Lindsay, and the place is thriving. The decor is an eclectic mix of vintage and modern, chalkboard menus hang on the wall in pretty vintage frames. They have the usual espresso and coffee drinks you’d expect to find, but what really sets the shop apart are Lindsay’s homemade syrups; vanilla, dark chocolate and 3, yes I said 3, kinds of caramel! Kris had an iced coffee with the vanilla and loved it, unable to decide between the dark chocolate and the salty caramel, she made me a latte with both, yum! They also have a nice selection of teas and some tasty looking baked goods. Heck, we’d come to Bay City just for the coffee!

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At last we arrive at the Historic Webster House where we will be spending the night; built by Judge Thomas Webster in 1886 the 4,750 sq. ft. home is a lovely example of Queen Anne architecture. We are immediately greeted by innkeepers Frank and Gail, we walk through to the breakfast room where Frank points out a batch of freshly baked peanut butter chocolate chip cookies. The home is gorgeous; stained glass windows, polished hardwood floors, ornately carved wood trim and moldings, it is completely furnished in Victorian period pieces. Gail leads us to the stairway, she pauses at a table holding a platter of cheese and crackers, I catch the fragrance of red wine before I see the decanter and matching glasses, I love this place already! We ascend the steps up to the second floor where a guest refrigerator is stocked with soft drinks and more wine, Gail takes us into our room, it is splendid. The room is distinctly shaped, one wall is a series of large windows; a small table and two chairs are placed against a window. The bed is higher than a standard bed, the blanket is fluffed, it looks extremely comfortable. We have a fireplace and a small flat screen TV, the bathroom is roomy, I wish we were staying all weekend…… We help ourselves to a glass of wine, unpack a few things and get ourselves situated. If you’re looking for some luxe accommodations in Bay City, give this place a try!

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The Webster House is located in the Center Avenue Historic District, in 2011 the district was expanded to include 875 structures in a variety of styles from Gothic Revival and Italianate to Richardson Romanesque and Arts and Crafts. As we walk we pass grand manor homes, keep in mind this neighborhood was where industrialists, lumbermen and ship builders dwelled.  It is a perfect evening; water splashes in concrete fountains, Irises are blooming, lilacs perfume the air. The grass is deep green and lush, long walks lead to front porches bearing cement lions or gargoyles. Huge urns filled with annuals add a splash of color, ivy climbs the fireplace of a stately Tudor. There are also a number of “kit homes”, the Alladin and Lewis & Liberty Companies pioneered the manufacture of kit homes right here in Bay City. We arrive at a quaint little park; in a pond, water streams up from a whale and a dolphin, they look as though they have been entertaining children for decades. We take Center Street back to the bed and breakfast, have to freshen up for dinner.

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Everybody we talk to in Bay City tells us to have dinner at Old City Hall; as you may have guessed the building, opened in the late 1890’s was the city’s first city hall. Back in the logging days this area was known as “Hell’s Half Mile” for all of the rough activities that took place in the local saloons and brothels that stretched this section of road, eventually it forced the relocation on city hall. Today the restaurant looks like something you’d find in Birmingham or Ferndale, exposed brick walls, funky light fixtures made from empty wine and liquor bottles and a diverse menu. We begin our meal with the Thai lettuce wraps, a tasty blend of chicken, cashews and veggies smothered in a mild Thai sauce spooned into crisp romaine lettuce leaves, delicious. Our entrée of shrimp pad Thai arrived in a large bowl and smelled wonderful. A combination of shrimp, tofu, bean sprouts, egg and crushed peanuts the sauce was sweet and spicy, scrumptious.

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After dinner we walk down to the water front, the temperature has dropped quickly, we can see our breath when we speak, ah, Michigan in May! Lights across the river reflect on the still waters, pretty, a large white sculpture lights up Wenonah Park, the Delta College Planetarium looks super cool at night. The cold night air sends us back to the bar at Old City Hall; with 150 wines from around the globe and 23 beers on tap there is much to choose from. We sip our drinks and relax, it has been a fun and busy day.

Tecumseh & Hidden Lake Gardens

29 May

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Springtime in Michigan is a short-lived wonder of Tulips, Daffodils and flowering trees; it’s when the heavenly scent of Lilac and Honeysuckle permeate the air. I love Spring. Hidden Lake Gardens is one of the best places to enjoy nature any time of year, but Spring is extraordinary. Located in Tipton Michigan, the gardens are nestled in the scenic Irish Hills. In 1926 Harry A Fee fulfilled his dream of owning a private lake by purchasing Hidden Lake and the surrounding 200 acres. He began creating a private garden laid out as a series of pictures, designing striking groupings of  plants and trees, he fabricated picturesque scenes for every season.  Wanting to share this beauty with the public, he donated everything to MSU in 1945. Expanding through the years, it is now a 755 acre botanical garden and arboretum. One of the nicest features of the park is the 6 miles of paved road that leads you through wooded areas and past breathtaking views, making the natural beauty accessible to everyone. For the more adventurous, there are 5 miles of hiking trails and picnic areas.

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We arrive at the gardens, pay our admission at the gatehouse, and begin the drive, in the distance I see a crabapple tree covered in fluffy white blooms; we have timed our visit well. Hosta Hillside is to our left, we park so we can get out of the car for a better look. We walk down to the lake, the water is still and clear, we see fish near the shoreline. I turn back toward the car, a multitude of Hosta’s are sprouting from the Earth, the magenta blooms of a Redbud break up the mass of green, a large shrub is covered in delicate yellow flowers. From here I will drive, allowing Kris to take photos; the road is a narrow one lane that snakes past the lake, through the trees. A stacked stone wall lines one side of the roadway, sunlight filters through Oak and Hickory leaves creating patterns on the asphalt, Creeping Myrtle is already blooming.  The road winds, twists and turns as we climb gentle hills, a deer stands in a grassy area unfazed by passing cars. Next the Dwarf and Rare Conifers take center stage, with over 500 specimens it is one of the finest collections in the country. The conservatory comes into view, we park again and go indoors.

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Inside the domes there is a definite mid-century feel to the architecture, narrow concrete pathways lead us through different climates. Brightly colored annuals are tucked into hanging baskets, Hibiscus and potted Geraniums mingle side by side, Palm trees are tall, nearly reaching the ceiling, we see trees that produce coffee and chocolate A large pot of Fuschia catch my eye, the flowers an amazing combination of cream, lavender and pink, a trumpet vine climbs a trellis. The arid dome is home to funky, woody plants bearing bronze colored flowers, cactus come in all shapes and sizes, some in bloom, I think the most unusual looking specimens are usually found in the arid display. The lathhouse is basically an outdoor living room; complete with comfy couches and chairs, shade loving ferns and Begonias take respite here, all that’s missing is a pitcher of lemonade. The bonsai display is just outside the lathhouse, tiny examples of White Cedar, Japanese Maples, Evergreens and Oak sit atop tall pedestals. It’s interesting to take the time to read about each specimen, some are quite old. Today they all seem to enjoying the warmth of the sun.

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Back in the car we continue to meander through the grounds, the area is more open and grassy as we near the exit. We finally reach the Arboretum, a large collection of native and exotic trees; Beech, Ash, Maple, ornamental shrubs, lilacs and what we came to see: flowering crabapples! As we get closer I see dozens of trees decked out in blossoms, I am in awe at the sight. The road leads us past trees that seem to be made of giant plumes of flowers. White crabapple trees are densely covered, branches look almost fluffy. Shades of pink run the gamut from the most pale to a deep raspberry color; the view is incredible, as is the scent. Random groupings hug the landscape, I keep looking from front to back as we idle by, this is definitely the showstopper in the gardens today, I’m so glad we came!

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We are headed to Tecumseh for lunch, we haven’t spent a lot of time here, so it will be fun to check it out. On our second pass down the main street (M-50) a building on one of the side streets catches Kris’s eye; a trip around the block leads us to Evans Street Station, where we will be having lunch. Formerly a city fire station, the building has been renovated into a “destination restaurant”. With a focus on farm to table they partner with many of the local growers in designing their menu. We walk around the back to the entrance and find a charming patio set up with tables and sunny yellow umbrellas, today we will be enjoying our meal Al fresco. Our waiter arrives promptly with water and menus, it doesn’t take long for us to decide. We place our order and chat with our waiter getting a bit of the lowdown on Tecumseh, before we know it plates of food arrive. The wedge salad was perfectly crisp, topped with herbed buttermilk dressing, crisp bacon, thinly sliced radish, peeled cherry tomato and a sprinkle of white cheddar, it was delicious. The Cuban sandwich is served on Avalon farm loaf; stuffed with shaved salami, prosciutto, house made pickles, Jarlsberg cheese and Dijon mustard it is grilled to a perfect crunch. The variety of flavors and textures in the sandwich makes it outstanding. What a great find.

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Tecumseh has a lovely downtown, the streetscape a colorful combination of 2 and 3-story brick buildings. At just over 5 square miles this was one of the first three settlements in the Michigan territory. The city became a manufacturing town in the 1930’s when Raymond Herrick founded Tecumseh Products, makers of refrigeration compressors. The first hermetically sealed compressor was made here in 1938, and the first window air conditioner was produced here in 1947. Herrick learned mass production techniques from Henry Ford himself, during WWII Tecumseh produced artillery shells for the Allied forces. In 1956 Tecumseh Products purchased one of the largest manufacturers of small gasoline engines in the US, Lauson Manufacturing Company, creating Tecumseh Power Company, engines were made here until 2007.

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Today the city has reinvented itself as a tourist destination. Historic buildings are filled with businesses such as restaurants, specialty shops, a bakery, winery and home decorating stores. We stroll down the street roaming in and out of shops, stopping in at the Spotted Cow Ice Cream Shop for a little dessert. Formerly a bank, the shop maintains the gorgeous marble counter and tile floor from its banking days. Walls are bright pink, the aroma of homemade waffle cones make it hard to concentrate, they have it all; soft serve frozen yogurt, hand dipped cones, sundaes and shakes. Kris and I each get a scoop, and it’s wonderful. As we finish our walk through downtown we pass several outdoor sculptures, part of Art Trail Tecumseh, we then go further on into the residential area. It’s like going back in time, homes are are large and elegant, a mixture of antique architecture; Victorian, Federal, no two houses are the same. Some are constructed of brick, most are wood; facades are highly detailed with ornamental trim and railings, delightful. Alas, it’s time to head back, located only 60 miles southwest of the city, what a great place to spend the day.

Marine City: Memories for Sale….

4 Apr

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Sometimes we all get a little stir crazy, you just want to get away, see something different. Maybe you’re short on time, you don’t have a whole weekend, only a Saturday. Let me introduce you to Marine City, this pint-sized town on the St. Clair River has more to offer than you might imagine; shops and restaurants, a beautiful historic City Hall building, a beach and an incredible water view. Today Kris was in the mood for a scenic drive, M-29 was just what he had in mind, bordering Anchor Bay and up along the St. Clair River it is both pretty and relaxing. Our plan is to do some antique shopping, we begin on Broadway, about a dozen different shops line the street, many of them purveyors of antiques; Back Porch, Old Times N Such,  and Girl Next Door to name a few. Each store seems to have its own special niche; one was almost all glassware and china, I had to be extra careful walking around in my winter coat with my purse hung over my shoulder. This lady has the loveliest cups and saucers I have ever seen, attractive patterns, bold colors and gold trim. She has depression glass in yellow, pink and green, even a souvenir plate from the old Ford Rotunda building, cool! We traversed both sides of the street, buildings are close together making it easy to go from one to the next. Some places are little antique malls, independent vendors each have their own booth adding variety to the selection. We see spiffy vintage radios and cameras, shiny black typewriters and early clock radios; we love the offbeat colors and streamlined styles.

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In another shop we see tin toys and rusty metal toy trucks, their wear a tell-tale sign of hours of play. We spy old railroad lanterns with red and blue glass, metal signs, bicycles and vintage instruments. One store has great kitchen ware from tables, stoves and toasters to Fiestaware, cookbooks and aprons. Antique stores are always an adventure, whether you buy something or not; the variety of items and time span covered is pretty amazing. We always see something we have never seen before, today it was a collection of ceramic fish liquor decanters; something that has to be seen to be appreciated. One of the larger places, the Vera Grace Emporium, has a marvelous array of antiques, shabby chic and new items; girls, you will love this place! A perfect blend of new and old items artfully arranged have me ooohing and aahhing at every display. New and vintage jewelry combined with yards of tulle and lace are frilly and attractive. Dark wood china cabinets are filled with delicate glassware, miniature white lights are draped around the pieces for a dazzling effect. An assortment of vintage mirrors, picture frames and upholstered chairs are eye-catching. Outdoor objects and garden pieces mingle side by side with hat boxes and shawls. This store deserves an A+ in eye-appeal and charm.

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At last hunger has distracted us from our shopping, we drive around the corner to Water Street and park in front of “The Original” Marine City Fish Company, where we will be having lunch. The restaurant sports large front windows, in the summer you will notice a steady stream of swimsuit clad pedestrians making their way to the beach. Inside, the theme, as you would expect, is fishing. Dozens of fish in a mixture of sizes, shapes and colors are mounted on the walls, funny sayings and fishing paraphernalia fill the wall space; there’s a nostalgic campy feel to the place. The menu offers much more than seafood; homemade pastas, house-smoked ribs and salmon, sandwiches and salads too, they even make their own beef tenderloin Jerky. We looked up from the menu to get a glance at a sandwich on its way to a table, no need to look any further, “we’ll take that!”  It didn’t take long for the food to arrive, a house salad, a side of crispy hand-cut fries and the sandwich; start with a fresh-baked Asiago roll, add a thick slice of brown sugar peppered bacon, a piece of Gouda cheese that has started to melt, top that with a chunk of fork-tender beef brisket drizzled with the house bbq sauce, and there you have it, one incredibly delicious sandwich. 

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There are more antique shops on this block, we stop in at the Water Street Antique Mall, as we enter I notice a variety a nautical pieces and decoys, an old bicycle and a bright orange Chrysler Sno Runner are displayed in the front window. Small rooms off-shoot from the main space, like items are grouped together. A gorgeous wood dining room set has caught the attention of a pair of shoppers. We finish looking around and head to the last shop a few doors down, it is almost closing time so we cannot linger for long. Many of the objects here are closer to mid-century, there’s a swanky bar cabinet complete with a glass ice bucket and matching glasses, a nifty art deco coffee serving set is mighty tempting. Glass ash trays and paper weights showcase fancy hotels and buildings from the early 20th century, so many interesting things to look at!

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No trip to Marine City is complete without visiting The Sweet Tooth. It is the weekend before Easter, the windows are filled with fanciful pastel-colored eggs, cute ducklings and spring flowers. Inside you will find the makings of an old-fashioned candy store; the left wall is lined with candy sold in bulk. Here you will find Mary Janes, Hershey Kisses, gumballs, black taffy, licorice and every type of ‘gummy’ or ‘sour’ candy you could want. Shelving units offer nostalgic candy from the 1900’s to the 1970’s, been looking for Zots, Pop Rocks, Razzles, Mallow Cups or a Chunky? They have those and more……At the back of the store a tasty array of ice cream flavors from Hudsonville await you. Served up in a dish or cone, it’s hard to resist flavors like Cake Batter, Tiger Traxx, Orange Pineapple and Sleeping Bear Dunes Bear Hug, and it’s all made right here in Michigan! If that’s not enough, owner Todd also sells his own handmade chocolates; from truffles to clusters, brownie pops and chocolate dipped Oreo’s to chocolate covered bacon and the best variety of barks you’ll ever see, his chocolates are divine. Sweet Tooth is whimsical, delightful and  impossible to leave without making a purchase; Kris selected a jalapeno and a peanut butter cayenne truffle, I went with Key lime and red velvet… and some Zagnut bars….and some Hot Tamales and….well, you get the picture, Yum! 

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CLEVELAND: Fun & Festive

18 Dec

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We awoke to a chilly November morning; rooftops had a light dusting of snow, downstairs Richard was busy making chocolate waffles for breakfast. Breakfast at Stone Gables is always scrumptious. Saturday was no exception, the waffles and homemade chocolate sauce were sinfully delicious. We had much to see, and new-found energy from the morning dose of sugar and caffeine to do it with. First stop: the Museum of Contemporary Art Cleveland (MOCA) located in the Uptown District. This is one of those new, funky-cool buildings; designed by Farshid Moussavi it is both her first US commission and her first museum. The building is 4 stories, the base is hexagonal and shoots up 60 feet to a square top. The exterior is a mirror-finish black  Rimex stainless steel, you can see yourself as you approach the entrance. The main floor is home to the lobby, cafe and museum store; as you look around the shape of the building is apparent, one of the main features is a gigantic stairway to the upper floors. There are four floors in all and each can be used for either exhibit space or public programs. The museum was bustling with visitors, it’s nice to see people excited about this recently opened venue. We climbed the stairs to check out the exhibits; gallery after gallery we viewed large paintings and sculptures, some life-like, some abstract. Each floor has windows that allow you a glimpse of the city completing the urban feel. The gallery has no permanent collection so the exhibits are never the same, always making you want to come back and see what’s new.

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We were motoring down Martin Luther King Jr drive near University Circle when our attention was drawn to a magnificent church. The door was open and people were going in and out, so we thought we see if we could take a peek. Just inside the door we were greeted by volunteers gathered to put up the Christmas decorations; they invited us in to have a look around, what luck! Eppworth Euclid United Methodist Church was designed by local architect Bertram Goodhue, his design included a towering steeple affectionately known as the “Holy Oil Can”. Built in 1928 is has many of the wonderful features found in churches back in the day; stained glass windows, granite exterior and stunning woodwork. 

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Back in the Jeep we continued down MLK  to the Rockefeller Greenhouse. Built in 1905 it was originally used to grow plants that would later be planted in the city’s parks, still used as a greenhouse it now includes display gardens. I love stopping in at different times of year to see the seasonal displays; I was anticipating rows of pots filled with Poinsettia’s in multiple colors, Christmas decorations and maybe a Cyclamen or two. Instead we found the seasonal beds full of round indentations, the Poinsettia’s waiting patiently in another area to be installed… bummer. Still the greenhouse was quite lovely with its fern grotto, mum display, fountains and a multitude of other greenery. The sun had come out inviting us to stroll the outdoor gardens. A very unique feature to the grounds is the Betty Ott Talking Garden For The Blind. A cement walkway leads through the garden, recorded messages play at certain points describing surrounding flora. A bronze statue of Helen Keller kneeling at a water pump is a main focal point, visitors can even operate the pump. Admission is free, well worth a look.

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Our stomachs reminded us that it was time for lunch, we drove back to Ohio City to eat at Johnny Mango World Cafe and Bar. Anytime we are in Cleveland we stop here for a meal, the food is excellent. As soon as we were seated Kris ordered a lemonade, they make it on the spot with fresh squeezed lemons and just the right amount of sugar. We knew what we were going to have before we even got here: the veggie quesadilla big plate, it comes with happy beans, grain of the day, Yucatan slaw and a grilled banana. The food arrived without delay, we divided it onto two plates and dug in. The quesadilla is loaded with sautéed veggies, the grain today is Jasmine rice and it is cooked perfectly, the Happy Beans are a red variety and quite tasty as was the slaw, the grilled banana is a sweet finish to the meal. Did I mention the fried tofu? Yum! We are just around the corner from the bed and breakfast, so we head back to relax before the evenings activities.

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Rested and ready to go we head downtown, tonight is the tree lighting and Winterfest. As we get closer to the activities the streets become increasingly busier with both automobile and pedestrian traffic. As we look for parking the fireworks show begins, before long we find ourselves standing street side with a wonderful view. The surrounding trees are strung with thousands of lights, high in the night sky fireworks burst into color, the crowd cheers, children laugh and the tiny dog near my feet looks for cover. When the finale has ended we decide to seek warmth in nearby historic buildings, Cleveland’s downtown has fantastic architecture.

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We follow the crowd to Tower City, once Cleveland’s train station, it is now a shopping mall. Fortunately the building has maintained its architectural integrity, it is stunning, ceilings are coffered and highly detailed. The place is packed, so we go over to the historic Renaissance Cleveland Hotel.…wow! Opened in 1918 this place is gorgeous! The lobby is grand and dripping with early 20th century finery, the place was jammed with people so we just got a quick look and moved on.

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Further on, we stopped in at the Arcade on Euclid, if you ever get to Cleveland, this is one place you shouldn’t miss seeing. Once inside we realized a wedding reception was taking place on the first floor, what a fantastic place to have it. Businesses were closed and just a few hotel guests lingered about as we quietly walked around. A beautifully decorated Christmas tree stood at the top of the stairway, lights were dimmed creating an elegant atmosphere. Even in the low light the fine Romanesque details of the building stand out, just stunning.

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We had been walking around downtown for a while now in 21 degree weather, our hands were cold and we were hungry. There’s a great little district on East 4th Street that has lots of restaurants and bars to choose from, so that was our destination.  Like the rest of downtown this district was all dressed up for the holidays, people were milling about coming and going from dinner or a show. We found ourselves in front of Saigon, the thought of Vietnamese food was appealing, so we went in. Feeling a bit overwhelmed by the enormous menu we asked our waiter for advice on ordering. He pointed out a few selections, we nodded our heads and that was that. First to arrive was Pho Tai (a sort of soup with rare beef) followed by Ga Xe (lettuce wrapped chicken) and for a main course Bun Xao Chay (vegetarian curry vermicelli). With all the food in front of us, it was clear we had over-ordered, but it sure was fun trying everything! The service was great and each dish tasty and unique.

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Walking back to the car we noticed a shop on the corner of 4th and Euclid called CLE Clothing; it was still open and busy with customers, so we went in to check it out. This is the store for all things Cleveland: t-shirts, hoodies, books, art, you name it. All kinds of goods showing pride in their home town. Appealing to both locals and visitors alike they were doing a brisk business tonight, after all the holiday shopping season had officially begun.

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Like Detroit, Cleveland has seen some tough times, but continues to reinvent and endure, c’mon, take a look.

On The Road To Cleveland……

11 Dec

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 There’s something really fun about traveling on Thanksgiving weekend as folks slip into holiday mode; towns are lit up with thousands of miniature lights, children line up to ask Santa Claus for that special gift, eggnog flows freely and Christmas carols become the music of choice. Through the years we have been as far north as Milwaukee and as far south as the Gulf, nobody celebrates the holidays with more enthusiasm than mid-westerners. We were due for a roadtrip, so we loaded up the Jeep and headed for Cleveland. When it comes to decorating for Christmas, this city goes all out. 

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By freeway you can make it from Detroit to Cleveland in just under three hours, but what fun is that? There is much to see and do along the way, for example, the Rutherford B Hayes Presidential Center in Fremont Ohio. Can’t say that we knew much of anything about our 19th President, funny how much more interesting history is to us now than back when we were in school, so we thought we’d stop in. The Hayes estate, named Spiegel Grove is an impressive 31 room mansion and sits adjacent to the Presidential Library and Museum. We arrived just in time for a tour. The home is quite  lovely, I was surprised by its size; the exterior is red brick, most notable is the wrap around veranda and rooftop lantern. Inside, the home remains just as it was when Rutherford and Lucy lived there; books, furniture, paintings, light fixtures, even dishes give you a peek into the private life of the man who was an attorney, served in the military, was a US Congressman, served 3 terms as the Governor of Ohio and one term as President of the United States.

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Rutherford was born about two months after his father passed away, he was raised by his mother and her bachelor brother Sardis Birchard.  Uncle Sardis was himself an attorney, he had the means to provide Rutherford a top-notch education, which included Harvard Law School. Uncle Sardis built his home in Fremont in 1859, he made it large enough for Rutherford and his young family to spend their summers in northern Ohio. Through the years as the family grew so did the home. It was here at Spiegel Grove that Rutherford lived when he was elected as President and the place he returned to after his years in the White House. After his presidency there was a huge addition including a library, reception room, and even indoor plumbing (Lucy must have been so happy!). A gorgeous 4-story walnut and butternut staircase was added, it leads all the way up to the rooftop lantern where you are treated to a 360 degree view of the property. It’s fascinating to see all of their things, and amazing that they all remained in the home. Much of the home has been restored; woodwork is handsome, wallpapers are covered with busy patterns so popular at the time, and lots of color. Everything in the home is accessible to visitors; there are no ropes or plastic runners, unfortunately photos are not allowed to be taken in the home,ugh. Gifts given to Rutherford during his political years are all on view, he brought back a painting of himself that was so large they had to raise the ceiling in the library. Rutherford and Lucy raised 8 children in the home, both passed away at home and are buried on the grounds. Fortunately the home stayed in the family, eventually the Hayes children deeded Spiegel Grove and all of its holdings to the state of Ohio. In 1912 ground was broken for the first presidential library and museum in the country, it opened in 1916 and is just a short walk from the estate.

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The museum is two floors of exhibit galleries and a research library. Here just under 2,000 artifacts are on permanent display, most enclosed in glass cases. They say they have 19,000 artifacts that tell about Rutherford, his family and Ohio history. He was highly respected as a leader and as a man; throughout his life he was concerned with minorities and the poor. He believed all people deserved an education and with it they could achieve better lives. He was active in both local and veterans affairs, they say his policies made business and industry stronger. We also learned Mrs. Hayes was the first president’s wife to be called the “First Lady”, she was also the first wife of a president to graduate from college. President Hayes began the “Easter Egg Roll” in 1878, which still continues today. This was such a great find, I’m so glad we came.

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As usual we were running way behind, we needed to stop for lunch. Luckily we were not far from the Quarry Hill Winery in Berlin Heights. Kris is very familiar with this part of the state and he knows a great route. The temperature had continued to drop and it was now snowing, fitting for the day after Thanksgiving. The wine bar at Quarry Hill sits smack dab in the middle of the vineyard and orchards,  surrounded in glass a fireplace anchors the back wall, there’s not a bad view to be found. It was mid-afternoon so the only food available was a meat and a cheese plate, which was ok with us, add a glass of apple wine and we’re happy. As we sat and ate in the large open room people began to drift in. We made quick work of finishing off the chunks of cheese, baguette, olives and meat, but lingered over the wine. The snow was coming down harder, it was time to continue our journey eastward. The miles pass quickly through the countryside; roads wind around curves and rise and fall over hillsides, every once in a while we pass a home decked out in Christmas attire.

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At last we arrived in Cleveland, first stop: Stone Gables Bed and Breakfast to check in, unload and freshen up. On our last visit we were impressed with the revitalization going on in the Gordon Square Arts District, Kris had checked the movie listings and found Life of Pi was playing at the Capitol Theatre, we had a plan….The schedule worked perfectly, we could have dinner first, then catch the movie (we might have snuck in an ice cream at Sweet Moses….). Detroit St has lots of places to choose from, we had heard good things about LUXE, with any luck we could get in. To our delight there was a high-top table open right in front of the window, we took our seats and scanned the menu as our waiter brought us water and told us the specials of the night. The selection includes something for everyone; we settled on pizza and salad. As we waited for our dinner to arrive, facing the window I noticed all the quotes posted on the glass; from the Dalai Lama and Lord Byron to Alfred Tennyson and Louis Armstrong their words give us food for thought. My reading is interrupted by laughter from a nearby table, I turn and take in the room for the first time; crystal chandeliers hang above, walls are exposed brick, a large antique Art Deco bar leans against the right side wall. Tables are filled with large groups tonight, people are laughing and making toasts, yes, the holidays are here. Our food arrives, we dig right in. The salad is a mix of butter lettuce, chick peas, olives and pickled onion topped with roasted cauliflower and drizzled with a raisin-sherry vinaigrette, it’s wonderful. The De-LUXE pizza is topped with a roasted red pepper sauce, chorizo, black olives, spinach and Manchego cheese, a perfect combination of salty and spicy, yum!

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The Capitol Theatre is a few blocks down from the restaurant, snow continues to fall but fails to accumulate, it’s cold, colder than it’s been in a long time. Detroit St. sparkles with the glow of Christmas lights, storefronts are decked out in holiday splendor. We arrive at the theatre and purchase tickets for The Life of Pi, the cashier hands us our 3-D glasses. We enter the main theatre and have a look around; built in 1923 and vacant for over 20 years, it has recently been restored and upgraded to all digital projection and 3-D capabilities. Once one big space, it is now divided into 3, the original main floor being the largest and most decorative. The ceiling is very ornate, the eclectic chandelier hangs from a large medallion in the center, decorative patterns please the eyes, along each side curtains hang in arches separated by flat plaster columns. What was once home to vaudeville stage shows now welcomes 21st century movie-goers. The lights dim, after the coming attractions have finished we all don our funky glasses and get ready for the main attraction. Time to relax.