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HAMTRAMCK: Pierogi And Fancycakes With A Side Of Theatre …

8 Mar

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It’s the weekend, time to play. During the winter months we do more indoor things; today we are having lunch and seeing a show, the pleasant 64 degree day is quite unexpected. We are just north of the Hamtramck border on Jos Campau, we are going to the “other” Polish restaurant, Krakus Restaurant & Bar, serving authentic homemade Polish food. The yellow brick building resides at the corner of Jos Campau and Meade, we park on the side in the designated lot. The interior looks as if time has stood still–a good thing in this case. 4-top tables wear tablecloths, framed paintings hang on the wall, paneling covers the lower half of walls. Our attentive, friendly waitress greets us with glasses of water and menus, we quickly place our order.

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Two cups of soup arrive, Kris has the mushroom, a creamy, velvety concoction of mushrooms and noodles, it’s out of this world. I’m having the dill pickle soup, the broth resembles chowder, there’s enough tasty shredded pickle for every spoonful. Just as we finish the Polish plate and potato pancakes are set on the table with two empty plates, we’re eating family style. The golden brown potato pancakes are crispy outside, tender and moist inside, we like ours with sour cream. The Polish plate comes with stuffed cabbage, sauerkraut, sausage, mashed potato and two dumplings (all for $9.75 including the soup and bread basket). Each Polish restaurant in Hamtramck has its own family recipes, every dish has its own distinct flavor and personality. Here the stuffed cabbage is served in a gravy style sauce instead of tomato sauce, potato pancakes are deep-fried, the sauerkraut is mild. It reminds me of  when I was growing up, we have many Polish relatives and each cook has their own way of doing things, all of them delicious.

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We drive over to Planet Ant Theatre on Caniff. The faded purple-painted building with the ant face painted on the side began as Planet Ant coffee house, it became a theatre in 1996. In time they created original theatrical and comedy works, formed the Improv Colony and opened a training center focused on teaching long-form improv comedy and comedy writing. Most importantly, the place is super cool! The performance space is small, I mean nano small; the first row of seats is just feet from the stage. A doorway with a curtain separates the lobby from the stage, the restroom door is barely off stage… that kind of small. We are seeing an original drama called The Aliens, the mood is serious, the emotion intense. The audience is drawn to the characters, we are caught up in the story unfolding before our eyes, it’s almost as if we’re eavesdropping. Planet Ant offers a very personal theatre experience, you should definitely check it out. If you are into comedy, check out Improv Mondays, it takes place each Monday at 8 pm for more than 15 years now.

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Every excursion deserves a sweet ending, New Palace Bakery on Jos Campau is just the place. A parking space is open right in front, the large window is filled with pastries, the aroma of bread, cookies, butter and sugar hangs in the air. In addition to the main front window, glass cases hold shelf after shelf of delightful pastries. I ask for a chunk of the poppyseed roll, it’s the best I’ve ever had, as the young lady is doing that I join Kris as he stares at rows of Maryann’s, shortcakes, snowballs and chocolate castles. The variety of treats runs the gamut from butter cookies to custard filled french fingers and marshmallow horns to cheesecake, donuts and the infamous chrusciki (angel wings). We leave the shop, smiles on our faces, with our poppyseed roll and caramel Maryann, life is sweet indeed.

 

GROSSE POINTE: Dinner And A Movie…

23 Feb

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I love movies. While today’s modern theaters offer perks like reclining seats, cup holders and surround sound, I still prefer watching films in old theaters and unique venues. This evening we are at the Grosse Pointe War Memorial for their Movies on Sunday series, tonight they are showing Alfred Hitchcock’s North By Northwest. First lets talk a little bit about the venue. The Russell A Alger Jr house, also known as The Moorings was built as the family home in 1910. The Italian Renaissance beauty perched above Lake St. Clair was donated to the community in 1949 to serve as a perpetual memorial to the 3,500 Grosse Pointers who served and the 126 who died in WWII. It is also used as a center for educational and charitable activities of the community. Oh and it’s an incredible location for a wedding or party. 

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The addition of the Fries Auditorium and Crystal Ballroom came along in 1962, the ballroom is stunning! From the parking lot we take the portico past the formal garden to the Crystal Ballroom entrance; the large space decorated in grey and silver feels opulent with dazzling crystal chandeliers, highly polished floor, statues and a shiny black baby grand piano. The main ballroom has floor to ceiling windows trimmed in white, Lake St. Clair provides a fantastic backdrop, the parquet floor is perfect for dancing. A stairway leads us down to Fries Auditorium where they are getting ready to start the movie, popcorn scents the air. Patrons are grabbing snacks and beverages before the lights dim, when everyone is seated Travis Wright from WDET’s Culture City introduces the film; there will be a talk-back after the film for anybody who’s interested.

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We sit in darkness as Hitchcock himself appears on the screen, a North By Northwest poster hangs prominently on the wall behind him; the music has the usual intensity of his films; Cary Grant, Eva Marie Saint and James Mason star. The film begins, Hitchcock makes his candid appearance and we’re off on a wild adventure of kidnapping, mystery, romance and chases. The most famous scenes, the crop dusting and the chase on Mount Rushmore, are just as intense today as they were in 1959. 136 minutes later the lights come back up, time for dinner.

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The Whiskey Six on St. Clair Street in The Village of Grosse Pointe opened last December to much fanfare. The restaurant/bar serves Michigan-made beer and spirits, fine whiskey’s and a full menu of food from appetizers and sandwiches to entrees—and they’re open till midnight on Sunday! The decor is what I would call rustic industrial; the large space is open floor to black ceiling, leaving ducting and wiring exposed. The centerpiece, of course, is the 1928 Studebaker parked on a platform above the bar–it’s sorta the bar’s namesake. Here’s a little bit of the history printed on the drink menu: “It is estimated that 75% of all of the alcohol imported into the US between 1920 and 1933 came through Detroit, mostly by boat. When the lake and river froze, the ‘importers’ turned to mostly six-cylinder Buicks and Studebakers to make the dangerous trek across the frozen or partially frozen river and lake. These vehicles came to be called ‘Whiskey Sixes’.”

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The drink menu is huge, I mean pages and pages of whiskey, gin, vodka, rum cordials and cocktails. While Kris studies his whiskey options I check out the food choices. We place our order, we are one of the few tables at this time of night, our window-side table overlooks the now vacant village. First to arrive is the Blanton’s Kris was happy to find on the list of whiskey. Shortly thereafter the crispy rice balls made with Fontina cheese, mushrooms, red pepper and asparagus topped with a dollop of lemon-lime aioli (think  Italian arancini) arrive along with the Prohibition Burger. The burger made with certified Piedmontese beef, cooked to a perfectly pink medium, is topped with creamy blue cheese, caramelized onion and black pepper mayo, it’s delicious. This is the perfect place to stop and grab a late dinner after the Sunday Movie. There’s always something going on in Detroit and the Metro; what a great way to end the weekend!

 

DETROIT: Historic Sainte Anne’s

16 Feb

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July 24, 1701, Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac arrives on the banks of the Detroit River establishing Fort Pontchartrain du Detroit, a French settlement in ‘New France’ which later would become Detroit. Two days later the Sainte Anne de Detroit Catholic Parish was established; on July 26, 1701 the Feast of Sainte Anne was celebrated in a modest thatched log structure that sat near the present intersection of Griswold and W Jefferson, this was the first of 8 subsequent buildings that would house the parish of Sainte Anne. Think of it, in 1701 Detroit was part of the French colony, in 1763 Detroit passed from French to British rule, after the Revolutionary War the territory came under United States rule. Ste Anne is the second oldest continuously operating Roman Catholic Parish in the country, it was the only church in Detroit for more than a century, it has continuous records going back to 1704 (earlier records were destroyed by fire), it has borne witness to Detroit’s entire existence, I find that incredible!

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It’s Sunday and Mass is about to begin, we park across the street from the church, the wind is strong, the temperature in the teens and yet we stand in the brick-paved plaza staring at this beautiful orange-brick Gothic Revival structure built in 1886. Twin-spired octagonal towers soar to the sky, large crosses are mounted to the peaks, a large Rose window takes up much of the lower facade, a limestone first-story is decorated with gargoyles above the main entry doors. Architectural details such as flying buttresses, pointed arches, slate roof, stained glass and steep pitches flatter the structure. The 5-building complex is made up of the church, rectory, school, social hall and convent. Inside, we pause in the vestibule to take in the sight of the stunning interior as a whole, cream-colored walls rise 85 feet to a pale blue ceiling decorated with gold-leaf stars. A Gothic arcade is supported by decorative iron columns, this separates the nave and side aisles.

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Oak pews embellished with pinnacles at each end cap hold worshipers, stained glass windows are aglow in red, blue, pink, purple and lime green, I don’t think I’ve seen such a wide variety of colors before–Ste Anne’s has the oldest stained glass in the city of Detroit. A 26 rank pipe organ rests in a loft at the back of the church, the large Rose window above is gorgeous. The beautiful, unusual clock that hangs near the vestibule doors was a gift, wrought iron and opaque glass chandeliers hang evenly spaced from long chains. The centerpiece of it all is the apse, here stained glass surrounds the upper portion while metallic gold paint covers the lower, in the center sits the magnificent altar piece with its statues, carvings, spires, pinnacles and more flying buttresses. The wood altar where Fr. Gabriel Richard celebrated mass, communion rail carved by Julius Melcher in 1851, statue of Ste Anne and church bell all came from the previous church. Several small altars fill corners and long walls, they are exquisite.

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Buried below the steps of the main altar is the tomb of Father Gabriel Richard, a prominent figure in the history of both Detroit and Ste Anne. Born in France, Fr. Richard made many contributions to Detroit; he founded churches, schools, he co-founded U of M, he helped initiate a road-building project that connected Detroit and Chicago. He brought the first printing press to Detroit and started The Observer, Michigan territory’s first newspaper, he was the first priest to serve in congress. He imported spinning wheels and looms so women could learn a trade. Fr. Richard died of cholera in 1932  leaving behind a rich legacy. The church has changed as the city has changed, the once french-speaking parish came to serve Irish-Americans then Hispanics as immigrants from Mexico and Puerto Rico moved into the neighborhood. The last sermon in French was given in 1942, the first Spanish sermon was given in 1940, the Spanish tradition continues today. At the end of Mass announcements are made of a bake sale and dance performance at a luncheon taking place today.

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We head over to the social hall, Hispanic music plays in the background, long tables offer a buffet of Mexican dishes for only $5. We sit at a large round table near the back, the room is large, thin columns offer the only decoration to the space. A deep red curtain hangs above the stage, visitors await the performance. When the curtain opens 2 couples wearing traditional Mexican dress begin their dance; the men are all in white, the ladies wear a colorful sash. As they move the ladies twirl a lacy skirt overlay, the dance is lovely. A solo number is next, a man dances upon a wooden box, his steps strong and loud, the room is still as we all watch and listen. The troupe continues performing time-honored dances. Such an unexpected pleasure to watch.

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We’re having lunch in Mexicantown at the Huron Room, a fish-centric restaurant among the many Mexican restaurants on Bagley. The single-story white brick building is also home to Our/Detroit, a vodka distillery and tasting room. The restaurant is easy to spot, the head and tail of a big fish stick out from the top corner of the space. Inside it’s all about Lake Huron, the owners fondness of the great lake is apparent; the deep blue wall behind the bar is a map of the lake complete with city names, on the back wall a painting of the lightship Huron consumes the wall. Light blue glazed brick, a neon fish and fishing line put us in a lake state-of-mind. Though Great Lakes fish is the main attraction here, there are choices for every kind of diner. We are having the fish sandwich, we choose the beer-battered walleye, served on bolillo bread and topped with the house slaw it’s quite a mouthful. The sandwich is served with the same skinny fries they serve at Green Dot Stables (same owners), I douse them with the spritz bottle of malt vinegar that sits on each table. The walleye is delicious, light, and crispy–don’t forget to add the house made tartar sauce. We also ordered the U.P. pierogi, three little dumplings stuffed with up-north beef pasty filling, served with a sour cream gravy, I could eat about 6 of these! The price point is on the high side, but the food is fresh and delicious.

 

DETROIT: Indoor Outdoor ??

9 Feb

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There is so much going on in Detroit these days, it’s hard to keep up; restaurants, shops, galleries, an Outdoor Adventure Center on the waterfront. For years, one of Detroit’s greatest assets, the river, was sorely under-appreciated and underused. Cement silos and vacant industrial buildings were painful reminders of what Detroit once was: a thriving industrial city. Today, thanks to the Detroit Riverfront Conservancy and the State of Michigan we have  a series of riverfront parks, a State park and the Dequindre Cut Greenway giving residents and visitors access and opportunity to fully enjoy the Detroit River. We are driving down Atwater, construction crews are busy building Orleans Landing, sunlight sparkles on the river as if someone has sprinkled it with glitter, joggers from the Dequindre Cut wear determined faces. We park in the designated lot for the Outdoor Adventure Center, from this side we recognize the building as the historic Globe Building. This is the only remaining building of an industrial complex that began life in the 1860’s as the Dry Dock Engine Works. Later the company was absorbed by the Detroit Shipbuilding Company, after that it was used by a stove manufacturer then Detroit Edison Co and finally the Globe Trading Company, a wholesale machinery firm. 

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Inside, the former wide-open engine building facility has been recreated into an Up North play land; pine trees, wildlife, campsites, even a waterfall invite guests to explore all that Michigan has to offer. The DNR brings the outdoors indoors in this 3-story, 40,000 sq. ft. building complete with hands-on activities and simulators. We pay our admission, hang our jackets in one of the free lockers and begin to wander. We are greeted by Michigan’s majestic elk, surrounding placards explain where the elk live, what they like to eat. Exhibits are beautiful, interesting and informative. At the Fire Circle, Aspen trees surround a small campsite, a campfire looks inviting, a small tent and empty Adirondack chair wait for activity. Moving on, a large display chronicles the history of the Globe building and Detroit’s importance as a shipping center. I learn that Henry Ford worked in the building from 1879-1882, this is where he first became familiar with internal combustion engines. Detroit Dry Docks had 3 slips across from this building, notable ships built or worked on here include the Ste. Clair, the SS Columbia, the Greater Detroit and the Greater Buffalo.

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A large aquarium holds a variety of fish, we identify Sturgeon, Bass and Perch by the pictures nearby. We feel as if we are underwater; blue lighting, suspended fish and motorboat overhead. The waters of the mitten state are home to 154 different species of fish. Michigan parks offer a variety of overnight options, we enter a yurt complete with bunk beds, add your own camping story to one of the guest journals. Looks like we are back on the water, an empty fishing boat is ready to take us on an adventure; take a seat, press a button and the video begins, grab on tight to one of the available fishing poles, these fish don’t give up easy. Across the way I climb into a kayak simulator and paddle down one of our scenic rivers, this whole area gives us the illusion of being out on the water. We have reached the waterfall, walk behind it, look out and see the turtles resting on a rock, ducks gathered to the side. Under the waterfall we learn about Michigan’s geology and mining. There’s a duck blind, tower blind and a cool beaver lodge you can go into.

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We take the stairs to the next level, we look out over the railing at the waterfall, above it is a scene from the woods; rocky terrain, trees, deer, black bear, even a cute little fawn. The space is so wide open and has so many windows we can see the sky, sunlight drenches us, I swear I smell Pine, it’s almost like being outdoors. There are miles and miles of trails in Michigan, simulators take us for a ride through the woods on an orv, the snow on a snowmobile and trails on a mountain bike, all fun. We reach the suspension bridge and cross to the other side, enclosed by netting it feels like we’re up in the treetops. A 35′ tall bur oak tree allows us to climb through the trunk and then slide out the bottom. I climb back up and find Kris hunting squirrel at the laser shot simulator. A walkway leads us to bright red airplane from the DNR, the third floor takes us up to the treetop, again we have a great overall view. The adventure center is open Wednesday through Sunday, come check it out!

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We pop over to Eastern Market, a new deli called Stache International opened recently, we’ve been looking forward to trying it. Located on the Fisher Fwy service drive it sits next to Thomas Magee’s Sporting House, look for EAT above the front windows. The building is said to be about 125 years old, this particular section has been empty for years….. After a full rehab and renovation the decor has a carnival vibe, I like the large electric Eat ‘Em Up sign that hangs on the left wall. All of the meats are smoked in house, sausages are housemade too. Beverages include Faygo, Vernors and Germack coffee. The sandwich menu has something for everyone–meat-eater or vegetarian. We are sitting at a 4-top table, our server brings us water right away, after a few questions we place our order. In no time our salad arrives–served in a cardboard tray it is piled high with spring mix, sweet corn, shallots, fried okra, tomato and Better Made pork rinds, a housemade Maple Bourbon Vinaigrette is served alongside. The okra is really good, cooked just right it’s got a nice crunch and a hint of spice, the dressing is maple-delicious; a very nice salad. The Turkey Mondulo sandwich is (oh so tender and juicy) marinated pulled turkey, avocado, red cabbage slaw and rosemary garlic aioli on grilled sourdough; next to it are warm, crispy homemade chips, yum!

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We walk a little way down to Gratiot Central Market, a sign for Red Truck Fresh Produce has caught our eye. We stop in the small retail space, so colorful with cases of Towne Club pop, a rainbow of fresh apples and crates of bananas. The shop is super attractive; the namesake, a 1941 red Ford truck is parked in the center of the space, a refrigerated case is the back of a white box truck–notice the reflectors at the top, brake lights at the bottom. The produce market is part of a workforce development program, a rotating workforce of 7 veterans work in the store for 13 weeks of on-the-job-training. The eventual goal is to convert the store to a worker-owned cooperative. In addition to fresh produce and smoothies the market sells locally prepared foods from FoodLab Detroit and Detroit Kitchen Connect. Don’t forget to stop in next time you’re in Eastern Market.

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DEARBORN: The Ford Homes

23 Dec

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In 1915 American Industrialist Henry Ford built the Henry Ford and Son Tractor Plant in the city of Dearborn. In addition to American production, Ford built 6,000 tractors for England and 1,000 for Canada in 1917 to assist the countries with food production during WWI. By 1918 the plant employed nearly 400 men, most of which were forced to live in Detroit because of the lack of housing in Dearborn; it took workers an hour via streetcar to get to work everyday. The idea to build a planned subdivision that would allow workers to live close by was embraced by Ford. The Dearborn Realty and Construction company was formed with Clara (Henry’s wife) and Edsel (his son) owning 2/3 of the shares, Henry was not a shareholder. The company purchased 312 lots with the intention of constructing modern, tastefully designed homes, each a suitable size for an average family. They were to be built of the best materials and differ in appearance, there were six different models, A-F, all are colonials.

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Today we are doing the Ford Homes Historic District Holiday Home Tour, we don’t know too much about the area so we’re excited to check it out. We purchase tickets at Reach International Church on Nowlin St. The building is a collage of the original structure and additions through the years from 1924-1964. We are invited to look around the church, the Sanctuary was added in 1964 and is a reflection of the Modern architecture popular at the time, colorful stained glass in linear patterns is reflecting onto the walls, placards explain the symbolism of architectural details. We ascend and descend short staircases pausing to look in various rooms, photos and finally the original chapel. 

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Tour booklets in hand, we hit the sidewalk, from the map it looks like the tour houses are reasonably close together. All of the Ford homes were constructed in 1919 and 1920, 250 in all, spread out on Beech, Nona, Park, Edison, Francis, Gregory and Military streets. Henry Ford had definite ideas of how things should look and be, he insisted the homes not be placed an even distance from the street, here we have 3 houses 24′ from the street the next 4 are 32′ so a staggered look is achieved. He insisted various models be placed on each block, making each home appear distinct–it works. Ford homes were purchased directly from Dearborn Realty and Construction Company, no banks were involved. Once you purchased a house, you could not sell it again for at least 7 years; the company retained the right to re-purchase a home within the first 7 years if the buyer was deemed ‘undesirable’.

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We start out on Beech, a Model B home, then down Gregory to a Model A and C, although the homes have many things in common each buyer added their own special touch with options like built-in cabinets, fireplace surrounds, doors with 3 or 6 glass panels, brick or siding. Nearly 100 years later I’m astounded by how original they still are; floors, light fixtures, cove moldings, shutters, amazing. Homes are decked out for the holidays; trees, garlands, wreaths, miniature lights. Dining room tables are set for a holiday feast, settings look like pictures from a magazine. Neighborhood streets are absolutely charming, front porches are welcoming, old-fashioned lamp posts are wrapped with greenery and red bows, vintage cars are making a special appearance for the tour, a burgundy Model A, turquoise Packard, yellow Buick and a Model T (black, of course) are all parked in driveways. Homes are beautifully maintained, many have had additions through the years, care as been taken to unite the old and new.

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We have visited 11 homes in the Historic District, I think we’ve seen all but one of the six different models offered. The Ford Homes are distinct, they were built with a production-line approach to construction. Lots were excavated by Ford tractors then the foundation crew arrived, followed by the framing crew and on it went. Each crew had its own specialty, something unheard of in 1919 when a home was generally built from the ground up by a single construction crew. In September 1920, following a slow-down after the war, the tractor plant was moved to the massive Rouge Plant, the workers soon followed, after that no more Ford Homes were built– the remaining lots were filled with other homes put up after 1921. It’s clear the people who to live in these houses take pride in their neighborhood, appreciate the unique history they represent and share it by opening their doors to all of us, thank you for that.

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We are having lunch at Al Ajami on W Warren Ave. After eating at many other places in the area, Al Ajami is still our favorite. The large modern interior has table seating for large or small groups and cozy booths on the upper level. We are seated in a large booth in the front window, a server immediately arrives with a pickled vegetable platter and a basket overflowing with fresh-from-the-oven pita bread. These little round pitas are slightly crisp outside, tear into it and watch the steam be released, the inside is moist and tender–I think I could make a meal of the pita and vegetables alone….. Well, that and the vegetarian combo: fresh tabbouleh, falafal, grape leaves, creamy hommous, smoky baba ghanouj, so delicious! We eat until we can eat no more. It’s been another fun day of exploring topped off with an outstanding meal.

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DETROIT: Upscale Retail

9 Dec

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If you haven’t been to Midtown recently, you need to check it out. The ever-expanding list of places to eat and shop is mind-blowing. With the holidays just around the corner, there’s no better time than the present! Be forewarned, the good ol’ days of free parking are gone–you’ll need a bag of quarters or credit card and your license plate number to feed the pay station, ok, now we’re ready…..

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The newest and probably most anticipated shop to open is Jack White’s Third Man Records on W. Canfield. You may remember Jack and Meg White from their White Stripes days, they played the Detroit bar scene before making it Grammy-award-winning-big. For music lovers, this place is heaven on Earth,  there’s enough kitschy-cool novelties, records, t-shirts and videos to keep everyone entertained. Yellow and black are the label’s signature colors–it’s everywhere–walls, floors, clothing, even the Christmas tree. The front of the shop is filled with merchandise from skateboards and scarves to Hawaiian shirts and Stormy Kromer hats. Vinyl records in 45’s and lp’s fill racks lining the walls; in addition to Third Man there are selections from the Sun and Tamla labels. Photos of Jack, Meg and other band mates reach from floor to ceiling, a video is being projected onto the back wall of the stage area; guitars, amps and monitors are quiet at the moment.

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Headphone stations throughout the space allow you to listen to old favorites or the latest release; you can listen to the entire Third Man catalog in the Listening Booth. Have a seat in the lounge area while paging through one of Third Man’s books, take a ride on a motorized elephant scooter, pose with friends in the photo booth, watch the Mold-A-Rama machine create a miniature version of the rolling record store, pick up a CD by the White Stripes or The Dead Weather.  At the back of the showroom a long hall with a fabulously shiny pressed ceiling leads us to the future vinyl record pressing plant opening soon. Jack doesn’t live in Detroit anymore, but his presence is felt all over the city. In addition to donating a small fortune to the city and saving the Masonic Temple from the auction block, he’s now providing jobs and a cool place to hang out. 

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Next door is a high-end men’s and women’s store selling clothing, accessories and housewares called Willys Detroit. This entire complex of shops is housed in the old Willy’s Overland Motor Company building–hence the name. The compact space is bright inside as natural light floods the room; items are displayed on rolling racks, tables and cubbies. Only a limited number of each item is stocked, so the selection changes often. Seasonal items such as Levi’s jeans, flannel shirts, sweaters and warm jackets, all brand names, attract shoppers. Handbags, backpacks, hats and shoes complete any outfit. Upstairs mannequins pose in large front windows; thick winter hats, gloves and jeans are being prepared to sell. 

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We stop in at the much larger, remodeled Shinola; there’s a tiny  cafe offering Commonwealth Coffee and pastries by Sister Pie, visitors sip on espresso while paging through coffee table books. Up front you’ll find watches, watches and more watches; big ones, small ones, bands in leather, rubber or stainless steel,  mens and womens, in a multitude of colors and designs. New is the Muhammad Ali collection of limited edition products, Shinola has partnered with the Muhammad Ali Center for their Great Americans Series, I’m especially intrigued by the vintage black and white photographs. Reaching from the center of the store all the way to the back you can watch bicycles being hand-built. Pick your frame, your color and jazz it up with leather accessories and an old-fashioned bell– a truly unique way to by your next bike. Across the room you can watch technicians in lab coats and funny hats assemble watches with great precision. The Shinola tag line is : Where American is Made. One thing they continue to make is American jobs.

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We’re having lunch just up the street at Hopcat on the corner of Woodward and Canfield. The original Hopcat opened in Grand Rapids MI in 2008, there are now 8 locations in the Midwest, 4 of them right here in the mitten. Years ago Agave was serving up top-notch Mexican dishes in this space, today people enjoy craft beer and tasty food in the newly re-done building. A large bar runs the length of one wall and wraps around the corner, the line of tap handles across the bar are too numerous to count, liquor bottles have been re-purposed into hanging light fixtures, wide, comfy-looking bar stools are filled with patrons this afternoon. We are seated at a high-top table in one of the front windows, Kris looks at the food menu while I study the beer selections. In addition to the Local 30, they serve a dizzying array of Ambers, Browns, Lagers, Light Ales, Wheats, Belgians, Barleywine, Scotch Ales……well, you get the picture.

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Kris orders lunch and I choose the Thirsty Trout Porter from Dark Horse in Marshall MI. The Cowboy Burger arrives, an 8 oz. patty topped with fried jalapeno peppers, pepper jack cheese, apple cider bbq sauce, cherry-smoked bacon, lettuce, tomato and onion, delicious. The burger itself is juicy, love the tang of the bbq sauce and the heat of the jalapenos. Of course you must have the Crack Fries when you come here, Food Network Magazine put them in the Top 10 French Fries in America; crispy, crunchy, peppery, yum! Outside we pause to check out a lovely Detroit-themed mural by Fel3000ft, I’m awed by his work.

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Over on Second we park the Jeep in the Will Leather Goods parking lot. This is truly one of the most aesthetically pleasing, harmonious, welcoming stores we’ve been to in a very long time. A red arrow painted on the side of the building directs us through the giant door to the Coffee Station; a cozy little area offers visitors a place to relax with coffee, pastries and toast–in case you’re wondering, the carrot cake is outstanding! Behind that is a gallery space, currently a photography show entitled American Heroes and Dreamers is on exhibit. 

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The retail space is one large area (this is the former Tomboy Supermarket), the fragrance of leather is intoxicating, a full-size teepee sits in the middle of the floor. Merchandise is thoughtfully arranged on tables and shelves, you’ll find everything you’d expect to see in a leather goods store: wallets, belts, gloves, purses, briefcases, key chains, duffles, and so much more. For Will Adler the garment industry is in his blood; his grandfather, father and brother all worked in the industry in Detroit. Will, a local who moved away at age 20 to pursue an acting career, has turned his leather goods business into a lifestyle brand. In this, his Legacy store, he combines the industrial, mechanical Detroit, with the colors and outdoor feel of his current home in Eugene, Oregon. Read his fascinating life story and career path on the Discover Your Will page. Another Detroiter coming back to support the city. So, there you have it, a whole list of places to shop, snack, eat and drink in your pursuit of the perfect gift.

 

 

 

 

 

Olde Grosse Pointe

2 Dec

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Today we are touring the Provencal-Weir house, believed to be Grosse Pointe’s oldest surviving residence, it dates back to 1823. Originally, the house sat near Provencal and Lake Shore roads; home to Pierre and Euphemia Provencal, they raised their daughter Catherine and 20 adopted children in this tiny home. In 1800 Father Gabriel Richard first came to the Pointe as a visiting priest saying mass on the lawn of this home. The structure has gone through many transformations serving as a family home, a summer cottage, it was moved to its present site and became a grocery store, a real estate office and a rental house. The Grosse Pointe Historical Society bought the building, renovated it and turned it into a museum and One-Room school.

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The original wide-plank floors remain as well as the timber frame, the rest of the house has been reconfigured numerous times and is decorated in the style of the 1850’s-60’s. We begin our guided tour in the museum shop area and proceed to the dining room, around the corner an old-fashioned stove sits across from a modern kitchen. In the family room walls are covered in patterned wallpaper, a fireplace hugs the inside wall; kids are hard at work making crafts today. Upstairs women’s clothing is displayed along with hats, antique furniture and oil lamps. A table is set with a sterling silver serving set, vibrant red glasses,dishes and china tea cups. Bathrooms were updated when it was a rental unit, someone put in Pewabic tile floors. The remainder of the upstairs is used as a one-room school where second through fifth graders get the opportunity to see what going to school was like 100 years ago. 

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At about the same time Cadillac arrived in Detroit many French settlers were making a new life for themselves in Grosse Pointe. In the 1700’s the Pointe was heavily wooded and swampy, the French began clearing land for farms and orchards; the women farmed while the men hunted and traded with the Indians. All farms had water frontage, usually 300 ft and ran back about a mile, these long narrow plots were called ribbon farms. Some of the early settlers came directly from Normandy France, others went to Quebec first, then the Detroit area. Early residents include Moran, Vernier, Gouin, Trombley, St Antoine and Rivard–recognize their names? They can all be found on street signs all over the Pointes as well here in the St. Paul Cemetery.

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Located at Moross Rd and Country Club Lane, this is the only cemetery in Grosse Pointe; the earliest burial dates back to 1831, Catherine Vernier. The grassy lot is dotted with headstones, crosses, monuments and statues. We walk around the seemingly forgotten cemetery reading names and dates of the departed. Many have worn down through the decades making it impossible to make out the inscriptions, headstones have sunk into the ground, I push the dirt with my foot to get a better look. Many of the Vernier’s are here, the Melton headstone has decorative ceramic pieces that remind me of a ‘partridge in a pear tree’. A large statue of a woman holding a child is surrounded by a Gothic style arch.

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From the late 1800’s to the early 1900’s lumberman cut down trees, taking away the woods, the wealthy from Detroit came in and built mansions on the lakefront giving them names like Bellevue, Tonnacour, Rose Terrace and Otsikita Villa. Senators, attorneys, businessmen and merchants moved in, the Pointe was divided up into smaller communities: Grosse Pointe Farms, The Village, The Park, The Shores and Grosse Pointe Woods. While many of the grand old mansions have been torn down, a great deal still remain. Between the Provencal-Weir House, the Grosse Pointe Historical Society and the cemetery, the history of this quaint community lives on.

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We’re having lunch at Hydrangea Kitchen over on Fisher Rd. Housed in a 1-story red-brick building, when I first walk in I feel like I’ve entered a little boutique. Mismatched tables and chairs are scattered throughout the seat-yourself space, a tall framed chalkboard menu stands behind the counter. As soon as Kris sees the JL Hudson Maurice salad, he knows what he wants; I pick the sandwich. I grab a cup of coffee from the serve yourself thermos and check out the decorative items around the room, much of it is for sale, so I guess it is a boutique and a restaurant. Our plates arrive, each with a half salad and sandwich; the panini is a combo of country Brie, melted butter and sliced Granny Smith apples on a warm, crisp ciabatta roll. The Maurice is really good, they even got the garnish of green olives and gherkins right, but Kris will tell you it’s not ‘Hudson’s’ good.

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Today we Sneak-a-Peek at the future Designers’ Show House sponsored by the Junior League of Detroit. Located at 15500 Windmill Pointe Drive, we have been keeping an eye on the place as work has progressed, I’m so excited to have a chance to get inside! The home is a beautiful 3-story English Tudor built in 1927 for American aircraft designer and VP of engineering at Packard Motor Car Company, Colonel Jesse G Vincent. The house was recently sold, emptied and the new owners have donated the place to be used as the 2016 Show House. The house is opened for two days for a ‘bare bones’ tour before the designers take over. The thing about these old houses is, even empty, void of any decoration, they’re still stunning.

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The cement contractor is hard at work getting the driveway poured, we pay our $5 and anxiously step inside one of Grosse Pointe’s most distinctive homes. Foot traffic is directed by a series of arrows and human traffic controllers telling us which way to go; we’re happy to see many of the original light fixtures, radiator grills and fine details are in tact. The wood is gorgeous, I’m guessing dark walnut, it’s all over the place; paneled walls, steps, floors and beams. Bathrooms are fully tiled in yellow, lavender and blue, pedestal sinks remain. We’re a bit curious about the temperature settings in the shower: Cold, Hot and Scalding…. We meander through bedrooms, sitting rooms and a turret on the second floor, there’s a balcony that overlooks the living room, wow! All of the leaded and stained glass in the home is unique, window pieces are square-shaped, the front door is circles, I like that a lot.

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The third floor is the ballroom, it’s huge, it even has a stage area where a band probably played. It’s just one big empty space now, it’ll be interesting to see what the designers do with it. We are directed back downstairs where we get an up close look at the living room, dining room and kitchen; lots of wood, ornate plaster and the view, we have to talk about the view….. There’s an unobstructed view of Lake St Clair everywhere we look, today the sky and the water are almost the exact same shade of blue, the backyard fountain is in the process of being restored. This lot has its own canal that runs from the lake to a dry dock under the living room, impressive eh? The Show House runs May 7-22, put it on your calendar so you don’t forget. Maybe we’ll see ya there!

DETROIT: Woodlawn Cemetery

28 Oct

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There’s a place in Detroit where city fathers, industrialists, bankers and politicians reside alongside social activists, writers and musicians–many of which changed the face of our country. A city of sorts, spread out across 140 acres of gentle rolling hills, towering trees, a body of water nicknamed Millionaires Pond; where obelisks reach toward the sky, deer and geese roam the grounds and private mausoleums house families whose names are found on street signs and buildings all over Detroit. I’m talking about Woodlawn Cemetery on Woodward between 7 and 8 Mile roads. Established in 1895, the first burial took place in 1896, to date there are over 71,000 interred here. This is one of the largest collections of private mausoleums in the country.

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Kris and I have always enjoyed walking through historic cemeteries; visiting Woodlawn is a bit like strolling through a local history museum that just happens to be in a beautiful park-like setting; peaceful, serene. In my opinion Autumn is the absolute best time to come, trees are painted brilliant colors, the temperature is just right for meandering. The simple entrance gives no clue to the magnificent mausoleums and gravestones contained on the grounds. Most structures are granite, designed in the Egyptian, Greek or Roman Revival styles of architecture. From the late 19th to the early 20th centuries the monument industry thrived in America.

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We first stop at the Greek Revival style Hecker mausoleum, resting on a  hill this is the only building on the grounds with a marble exterior; Hecker was a railroad car manufacturer, his lovely Chateau-style mansion still sits on the corner of Woodward and E Ferry. Many mausoleums have striking, elegantly detailed, bronze grill work doors, they have acquired the perfect patina over the decades. Stained glass windows are another popular feature, we go right up to the doors and peer inside, if the sun is shining just right the colors glow, lighting up the interior. The Mills mausoleum is an impressive structure, done in the French Beaux Arts style it reflects the wealth the Mills family amassed organizing Detroit Stove Works, the Banner Tobacco Company and First National Bank, he was also Mayor of Detroit in 1866 and 67.

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Traversing the grounds leaves crunch under our feet, geese scatter, squirrels chase one another; colorful hydrangea trees decorate the setting. Each name we read is familiar: Hudson, Booth, Grinnell, Ford, Groesbeck, Pingree. Members of the Four Tops, Miracles, Temptations, Funk Brothers, Winans and Spinners are laid to rest here along with family members of Berry Gordy, Diana Ross and Aretha Franklin. The Egyptian style Dodge mausoleum is guarded by two large sphinxes, four papyrus-topped columns flank the doorway. Brothers John and Horace died 11 months apart and are reunited here. Next door John’s wife Matilda and her second husband Alfred Wilson are laid to rest, the Art Deco style building has amazing entrance doors and a sculptural medallion done by sculptor Corrado Parducci, really take the time to look at the detail.

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The lake is surrounded by European-style garden memorials, the most impressive belonging to the Kanzler family. The plot is 50′ by 50′, reminiscent of an 18th century French formal garden, the sarcophagus is carved from one piece of French marble, so elegant and pastoral. Kanzler worked with Henry Ford at FMC then went on to organize the Guardian Detroit Bank with Edsel Ford; his wife Josephine was the sister of Edsel’s wife Eleanor Clay, and J. L Hudson was their uncle– how’d you like to move around in those circles? Across the way a tall arch topped with an obelisk looks out onto the lake.

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One beautiful memorial after another, they are stately, grand, reflecting the stature of the deceased; clearly I cannot talk about all of them, but here are a few more of our favorites. C. J. Whitney has a distinctly Art Nouveau design, he is credited with bringing the first motion picture projection to Michigan in 1896. James Couzens mausoleum was designed by Albert Kahn, it is one of the largest in the Detroit area and is considered to be a mini-version of the Parthenon. A bronze statue of a woman mourns for W. H. Harrison, her anguish obvious; today fresh flowers rest in her arms. The bronze Bowen gravestone resembles an Italian Renaissance sarcophagus, it has aged gloriously, dripping with patina, pilasters have claw-foot bottoms, it was designed by Paul Phillipe Cret, the architect who designed the DIA. At one time Bowen was president of Cadillac then went on to become president of D. M Ferry Seed Company, his house remains at 5435 W0odward Ave. 

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We enter the main public mausoleum, built in 1941 it has a more Modern/Art Deco look about it inside. In a series of hallways individuals are entombed in the walls, there are small rooms where families are grouped together, their name engraved above the doorway; each a symbol of the personal style of the family with a particular marble, lighting and elaborate stained glass windows. The windows are stunning! Angels, landscapes, religious scenes, colorful patterns and flowers are just some of the designs. Urns rest on marble shelves in glass-windowed cabinets, carpet covers the floors, it’s so quiet in here. In the chapel area pews, lectern and walls are the light-colored wood popular at the time; the Our Father is beautifully carved into panels.

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Again we see more recognizable names like Whitcomb (Belle Isle Conservatory), Mel Farr, Fruehauf. We take a stairway to the second floor, at the end of the corridor Stanley S Kresge is laid to rest, stained glass windows in rich colors are religious in nature. When we are finished we proceed to the basement level, maintenance is in the process of replacing letters that have fallen off through the years. Large gravestones accompany the traditional mausoleum walls. Time has passed quickly, it has been fascinating traveling through Detroit history. 

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Just a short drive away is Kuzzo’s Chicken and Waffles located on Livernois between 7 Mile and Outer Drive, we arrive just after 3 pm and the place is packed!  Open for less than a year their creative menu of southern comfort food keeps people coming back. The place is very attractive inside; red walls, open ceiling, funky floors, great art, very cool.We are seated at the only open table, I look around to see what surrounding diners are eating–everything looks delicious. Our server drops off our drinks, takes our order and reminds us everything is made to order from scratch, so it takes a little time. The crowd thins out after 3:30 and our food arrives.

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Ok, so we went a little crazy ordering, that’s what take-home boxes are for….Here goes: The Big Red is a red velvet Belgian waffle served with a scoop of cream cheese icing in the center, a side cup of bourbon maple syrup, 3 large, hand-breaded, luscious chicken tenders and a side–we are having collard greens. Every single item is outstanding, and the bourbon maple syrup, well, you’re gonna have to try it for yourself! Biscuits and Gravy are the ultimate comfort food, we got 2 buttery, crispy on the outside-flaky on the inside biscuits and a bowl of chicken gravy, over-the-top good! Then there’s the LALA, it comes with a waffle, this one has tiny little squares that really hold onto the melted butter and syrup, 2 eggs, ours are scrambled and a cup of cheese grits, yum! I can see why the restaurant is so popular.

DETROIT: Art Attack !!??

14 Oct

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These days much of the news coming out of Detroit is positive; new businesses are opening, people are moving into the city, a new hockey arena is being built, neighborhoods are being revitalized, urban farming is a real thing. Midtown and Corktown are often the center of attention. To me Eastern Market is the heart of Detroit, it’s the place people gather to buy their food, pumpkins, their Christmas tree. Folks meet up for breakfast, lunch or dinner, eat at communal tables, have a coffee, a cocktail, view amazing art; it’s the place everyone feels welcome. Recently Eastern Market Corporation, 1xRun and Inner State Gallery invited 45 local and international artists to create large-scale murals all over the district for a 9 day event called Murals In The Market.

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The artists have arrived in Detroit, painting has begun; spectators are welcome. Designated walls are a blank canvas of black or white. Electric scissor lifts have taken over the streets as artists drive them to their specified locations. Walking from one block to the next we see the beginnings of murals taking shape, details are sketched in black spray painted lines, artists are perched precariously on ladders. Curious onlookers include local workers, amateur photographers, and random passersby. At Orleans and Adelaide Patch Whisky and Ghost Beard are nearly finished with their mural, Whisky’s signature character is chasing Beard’s monster on a multi-hued wall. Dozens of aerosol paint cans represent every color of the rainbow–and then some, gallon cans, rollers and paint trays lay on the ground. It’s just the beginning.

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Six days later we’re back in the market, this time for Eastern Market After Dark, part of the 4th Annual Detroit Design Festival. A night of open houses at creative venues in the district, it’s one of our favorite events of the year. In addition to the festivities, we’re checking out the murals. We start the evening with a Chili Mexican from Germack, just outside, at the corner of Russell and Adelaide Hebru Brantley has finished his mural, a super-cool flamed and lowered Caddy is parked in front. Images of a youthful super hero in goggles cover the wall; soon models sidle up to the wall as a photographer shoots photos. In Shed 2 we pass through the Jeep display and couches wearing extravagant paint jobs on our way back to the streets, the sun is already lower in the sky.

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Naturel has finished a piece titled “Teach A Man To Fish”, a colorful ‘fly’ hovers on a textured wall, Denial’s comic-book-style art fills an entire wall with bold colors. “Nothing Stops Detroit” literally stops Kris in his tracks–he recognizes the vehicle in the painting as a Dodge Deora, he points out the fact the actual vehicle was customized by Detroit’s own Alexander Brothers back in the day, I like the way the letters resemble neon, oh and the car too… Ouizi has turned a building on Orleans into a flower garden, I love it! Further on a pair of faces are still in progress, artists have gone home for the day.

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We have wandered as far as the new section of the Dequindre Cut; pavement has been laid, light posts illuminate freshly planted trees. Bridges crossing the Cut are newly paved and open to traffic. Construction equipment is quiet for the night, water towers and old industrial buildings complete the landscape. The mural project has expanded the footprint of the market, drawing people further into the district; good things are happening here. Up the street a huge Great White shark emerges from a sea of red, mouth agape, rows of teeth are frightening; this is Los Angeles artist Shark Toof’s second shark mural in the market. Around the corner the scene is more mellow, colorful shapes and designs somehow remind me of biology. The sun has set, the crowds grow thicker, Ren Cen glows in the distance. Artists continue their work aided by flood lights.

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A week has gone by, we’re back in the market to see the completed murals. A two-story house in blue stands alone in an open field, pretty patterns cover the exterior walls, around the corner, an unexpected image of a Victorian home, a man’s profile, lovely. We take in scene after scene, people with cameras are everywhere, another photo shoot is taking place, this time in front of Ouizi’s flower wall. There are shapes, portraits, landscapes and designs, characters like the striking image of the woman in the black-fringed hat. Murals reflect Detroit, Eastern Market–check out the corner of Riopelle and Winder. A Panda DJ gets our attention, further down the alley Ron Zakrin has created a scene in which children play on swings hanging from an abandoned tank, a peace sign painted prominently on the side, a field of flowers grows nearby, the caption: “Maybe one day”. Street by street we view the murals; we stand in awe, get lost in our thoughts, smile, laugh and become mesmerized by the beauty, creativity and thoughtfulness of the pieces. Art stirs emotions.  Back on Russell Street. Fel3000ft has completed his angel of Detroit, she gently mends the heart of the city, indeed, we are a city on the mend.

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 Just a little bit of ground left to cover over on Gratiot. Jeff Soto and Maxx242 have filled a wall with surreal roses surrounding skulls, a spray can in the center, resting on a beast–I recognize the eye from the first day we were here, it was the only section completed. A pair of canines are split by a waterfall, industrious bees build a honeycomb; you have to work a little harder here to see everything, but it’s worth the walk. Detroit is quickly becoming an exciting, vibrant center for street art, attracting artists and visitors alike from near and far. Come see it for yourself!

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Grosse Pointe: Pier Park

7 Oct

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It’s the last Sunday in September, though it feels more like July; the sky is powder blue, the sun’s rays are strong, warming my skin while dancing on the surface of the water. We are at Pier Park, a waterfront paradise in Grosse Pointe Farms, at the foot of Moross Rd at Lake Shore Rd. The Grosse Pointe Farms Foundation is hosting the 8th Annual Concours d’ elegance; an exhibit of vintage and exotic, domestic and foreign vehicles owned by all Grosse Pointe residents and open to the public. It’s the perfect opportunity to check out the (residents only) park and look at beautiful cars.

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Following the asphalt path we walk along the shoreline of Lake St. Clair, I can’t get over how stunning the lake is today, it sparkles.  Walking, we notice benches tucked under shade trees, there’s a nice view of the Yacht Club to the left. The lake itself is home to numerous species of fish and waterfowl, it is the source of drinking water for over 4 million residents of Michigan and Canada. Freighters carry more than 60 million shipping tons per year of iron ore, limestone, coal and grain, nearly 40 million of that originating in Michigan, across the lake. Interestingly, the lake is very shallow, averaging only 10 feet in depth. 

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We enter the harbor area with 333 mooring spaces for Farms residents, boats vary in style and size; an old wooden Chris-Craft, cabin cruisers and offshores. High at the top of a mast a man is making electrical repairs,while he is totally at ease, watching him makes me nervous. The lake spreads out before us; pleasure boaters revel in the loveliness of the day, kayaks glide across the surface, a freighter heads downriver; through the camera lens we can see the windmills in Canada. Looking towards shore we see the Community Building, lush landscaping surrounds the patio area and screened porch, there’s a bevy of activity on the land and water. We stop in the building which is home to the Parks and Recreation office; the Great Room is inviting with its fireplace, wooden bookshelves and leather furniture.

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Back in the park we meander about, we come upon a sleek 1964 Cadillac Fleetwood in black, look at all that chrome! There’s a swank 1941 Caddy in blue with a silver top, wood panels and a Bakelite steering wheel are luxe, there’s a 1948 Buick convertible just down from that. The Detroit Electric Car was built by the Anderson Electric Car Co, the Houk wire wheels were manufactured in Buffalo, NY, in those days everything was clearly marked as to where it came from. The 1926 Chrysler is sweet; I like the way automobiles reflect the time period in which they were built–much like fashion and architecture.

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A red, Ford-powered, De-Tomaso Mangusta catches Kris’s eye as do the 1969 Shelby GT 500’s; bold stripes, scoops and Cobra emblems make them super-cool. The 1976 Trans Am has a lot of lookers, a customized 1961 Chevy Impala hugs the ground, everybody loves Ford T-Bird’s, this red ’66 is a beauty. Walking around we realize just how large the park is, it offers some of the best panoramic views in the Pointes.

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We head to the Village to grab some lunch, Side Street Diner is tucked away on St. Clair Ave, the restaurant plays tribute to the American lunch counter. Inside, old-fashioned diner lights, black and white historic photos and stool-seating at the counter take us back in time; a row of layer cakes are spread out across the counter top in glass-covered pedestals. Wall colors coordinate with floor tiles in yellow, orange, turquoise, a large fork and spoon hang near the kitchen. The menu is huge, Kris goes right to the breakfast page. Service is fast and friendly– within minutes our food arrives. The traditional Eggs Benedict are delicious; 2 poached eggs, Canadian bacon on English muffins, the hollandaise sauce is outstanding, the homefries are good too. Our server recommends the Apple pancakes, I can see why; 3 fluffy, tender, buttermilk pancakes generously topped with lightly sweet, cinnamon-y escalloped apples, yum! We split both things so it’s a nice combo of sweet and savory. 

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