Detroit; Eastern Market, Traffic Jam, Bureau of Urban Living

30 Jun

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There’s nothing comparable to a Saturday at Eastern Market, it’s like a weekly celebration of Summer, and everyone is invited. This time of year flowers, shrubs and trees are still prevalent, but early crops are starting to show up too. The bundles of lettuce are amazing, different textures and colors just waiting for your favorite dressing. Shed #2 was recently renovated and has the highest concentration of gourmet type foods; Avalon sells bread, Zingermans has a table with cheese, Russell Street Deli sells soups. You can find Perogi, sausage, popcorn, coffee and granola too. If you come hungry, you won’t leave that way!

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Eastern Market has been in this location since 1891, it consists of a six-block open air public market in a 43 acre district of independent vendors, merchants, wholesalers, processors, and retailers of food products. It is the largest Historic Public Market in the US, it was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1977. Here’s another little tidbit for you: Part of the Underground Railroad went under Eastern Market to the Detroit River so slaves could make it safely to Canada. The privately owned restaurants, wholesale and retail shops are open Monday thru Saturday. Eastern Market only operates on Saturday year-round, but starting July 12 until September 27, they will now offer a Tuesday Market from 11am to 7pm.

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Sheds were crowded with folks taking advantage of bargain prices, vendors were selling whole flats of annuals for $1, yes I did mean one dollar, hanging baskets 2 for $5, my favorite, a giant Yucca in full bloom with variegated leaves, which I have never seen before, was $15…..I think I need a bigger yard…. There’s something in the air here, people are always smiling, the food may have something to do with that.  Three different musicians scattered throughout the sheds entertained shoppers as vendors called out their just reduced prices, individuals arms were filled with flowers as thoughts of one more flat danced in their heads, discussions about how many strawberries it takes to make a pie could be heard in passing. On any given market day you will encounter a diversity of dress, overhear various foreign languages, walk among a multitude of strangers, try something you’ve never had before, and simply have a wonderful day.

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 VIEW MORE PHOTOS HERE

With all the samples we ate at the market it’s hard to believe we could still be  hungry, but lunchtime was calling. Being such a beautiful day, the patio at Traffic Jam and Snug in Midtown was quite inviting. Traffic Jam opened in 1965 in this very space, it has an in-house bakery, microbrewery, and dairy, three of my favorite food groups! The menu is large and offers traditional standards like steak and Mac & Cheese to vegetarian dishes that will knock your socks off. One added bonus of having their own dairy is the award winning cheese they serve. We ordered the special of the day,  a platter with Camembert cheese, crackers, and a salad of spicy arugula and fresh berries tossed in a banana vinaigrette, my mouth is watering just thinking about it. The Camembert was wrapped in puff pastry and baked to perfection, the cheese creamy and mild like a Brie, delicious on it’s own or atop a cracker. The salad was scrumptious, the sweetness of the berries a nice compliment to the peppery arugula, and Oh that dressing, with just a hint of banana it pulled all the flavors together. Along with that we got TJ’s much loved nachos, a good sized serving of corn chips covered in melted white cheese with black beans, served with jalapeno slices, sour cream and salsa, makes you want to drive there right now doesn’t it? I have to say it was such a pleasurable meal, the food of course was delectable, but sitting outside with the sun shining, listening to the water trickle from the fountain just added to the experience. Here in Michigan we know how to appreciate a beautiful day.

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Across Canfield from Traffic Jam is a charming little boutique called Bureau Of Urban Living. It’s one of those stores with attractive merchandise for your home that is laid out in such a way you want to buy every single thing. They have everything from wine glasses, dishes, and candles to note cards and a full line of Mrs Meyers cleaning products. The selection is continuously updated and also includes books and some jewelry. The interior has a modern, slightly industrial feeling, very cool, I enjoy stopping in whenever I am in the area. The owner is a huge supporter of Detroit, and seems to know everyone who has a small business in the city. Midtown is becoming more populated with independent little shops and restaurants and it’s a welcome evolution.

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Cincinnati; Eden Park, Art Museum, Krohn Conservatory

25 Jun

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If you visit Cincy make sure to take a ride up to Mt Adams. The ride can be complex but it’s well worth the effort. On the west side of Mt Adams is where you’ll find restaurants, shops, bars, wonderful homes and great views of downtown. We chose the east side, Eden Park. Home to the Cincinnati Art Museum, Cincinnati Playhouse In The Park, and the Krohn Conservatory, Eden Park is one of several hilltop parks that offers spectacular views of the city, and the mighty Ohio River. There are plenty of places to sit and relax here; what do you like, gardens, fountains, a gazebo, scenic vistas? Feeling energetic, take a walk on one of the trails. Driving through the park with it’s elevation changes is a welcome variation from the flat lands of Detroit.

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Krohn Conservatory is one of my favorite conservatories, it was built in 1933 at the height of the Art Deco movement. This glass and aluminum structure harbors over 3,500 different plant species in four different houses; Palm, Tropical, Desert, and Orchid.With it’s aluminum railings and terazzo floors it has that wonderful ‘old’ feeling to it that you just don’t get from modern conservatories. I am partial to the Rainforest waterfall, it’s just gorgeous! It was Father’s Day and the place was jammed, it seemed every family had the same idea; to take pictures with dad in this exotic environment.

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Located at the top of the hill is the Art museum, built in 1886 and undergoing several additions through the decades it houses an impressive collection.The interior of the building is a work of art in of itself; Sweeping staircases with wood and iron railings, columns, and even a touch of Art Deco. Take your time and wander both floors; the layout makes for easy transition from room to room, European to American and century to century. The Chihuly glass sculpture strung from the ceiling to the lobby is outstanding. They have an extensive collection of Rookwood Pottery, my two favorite pieces of the entire collection are the Rookwood Fireplace & Fountain. With the special exhibits there is always something new to see here. Admission is Free, parking $4.00

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We drove around Eden Park for a bit, up and down the hills. We stopped and took a walk around Mirror Lake, so pretty, and to a couple of the scenic overlooks. Cincinnati has a series of bridges crossing the rivers and you can see most of them from this vantage point. Eden Park is a part of Cincy that is not to be missed!

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Time for lunch before heading back north. Hyde Park is one area that has a lot of activity on a Sunday. We found a little cafe to have lunch on the patio, but to our dismay the rain started up again. Just as well, the food was equally as good indoors as it would have been out. When in Cincy you have got to try their signature brand of ice cream; Graeter’s. There is a location in Hyde Park Square and it conveniently sits adjacent to a park with benches and a beautiful fountain. The Buckeye Blitz is truly an Ohio thing, chocolate and peanut-butter, one of those perfect combinations of flavors.  After we finished up our ice cream we took to the road once again, this time towards home.

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Cincinnati is one of the great All-American cities that graces the Midwest and makes for a great get-away from The D. Like most of our rust-belt relatives, we share a history of hard times and perseverance. We love spending our tourist dollars where they are most appreciated; hard working industrial towns like our own that have far more to offer than most realize.

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More Cincinnati; Findlay Market, Cincy Museum Center,Pompilio’s

22 Jun

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Ohio’s oldest market,Findlay Market was first on our agenda for the day. Located in the Over-The-Rhine historic district it is buzzing with activity.The indoor market has about two dozen merchants, narrow aisle-ways guide you past the usual market fare; meats, cheeses, fish and produce along with specialty stalls like gelato, fudge and spices. I saw a few people walking around drinking something that was a clear green with lots of ice so I had to ask, Grass Lemonade! I found the sushi place that makes it and bought one to try, not bad, and really quite refreshing. Try the Belgian Waffles….I will say no more…….. The outdoor vendors are along the street and under a pavilion, it seemed like most of Cincinnati was at the market that day; crowds of people  carrying environmentally friendly bags filled to the top with good stuff. Artists display their wares, businesses fill the colorful historic buildings lining the market and music is in the air. Samples are abundant; jalapeno bread, sunflower sprouts, cheese, and the BEST cookies I have ever eaten in my life, seriously. She calls herself the Cookie Fairy, she must be because I have never tasted a cookie so moist, so tender, so, well, delicious anywhere. I tried samples of every flavor she had there, it was really impossible to choose, so I made Kris decide! We picked up a bag of the Birthday Cake Cookies, it was the right choice.

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The Cincinnati Museum Center is just a short drive from the market and was next our list. Originally built as the Union Terminal passenger railroad station, it was completed in 1933 at a total cost of $41.5 million…Wow! The building is spectacular, it is designed in signature Art Deco style. Step inside to view the rotunda, painted bright yellow, gold and orange it features the largest semi-dome in the western hemisphere measuring 180 ft wide and 106 ft high. Brightly colored mosaics tell Cincinatti’s history, Rookwood Pottery tiles decorate the cafe, there isn’t a nook or cranny that isn’t beautiful in this structure. The building houses the Cincinnati History Museum, Museum of Natural History and Science, an Omni Max Theater, the Cincy Historical Society Library and the Duke Energy Children’s Museum. Recently named one of the top 50 architecturally significant buildings in America this is one place in the city that you must visit. It is so visually stimulating you don’t know where to look first, after all the times we’ve been here I am still in awe. The museums are top notch, but to be honest with you I’d come here just to see the place. To our delight the outdoor fountain was working, it really completes the picture of what it must have been like in its heyday to pull up to the station to take a train to some far away place like Chicago or New York. Free Rotunda Tours are available, and I highly recommend taking one.

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Cincinnati is built on hills, plateaus and bluffs which provide gorgeous vistas. Our lunch plan was to go over to Hyde Park get a carry-out from Carl’s Deli and take it to Ault Park for a picnic. The weather had other plans, we ate inside instead. The only sandwich we have ever had there is the #6, a crab artichoke salad served on  a Croissant which is then grilled and served warm. The croissant is crispy on the outside, flaky inside and that crab salad is so flavorful! With that and a few sides we were all set.  The rain had let up, so we made it up to Ault Park after all  for some post lunch viewing pleasure .

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After some R&R back at the Bed and Breakfast we headed out to Cincinnati Gardens to watch our hometown Detroit Derby Girls take on the Cincinnati Black Sheep. It was an extremely exciting bout, much to the dismay of the Cincy fans, Detroit prevailed with a score of 155 to 110. Cincinnati is a great place to catch a Derby; great teams, a knowledgeable enthusiastic crowd and an awesome vintage venue!  Now for some dinner….

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We zipped back over the Ohio River into Newport Ky for a good Italian meal at Pompilio’s.  We seem to have a hard time finding restaurants that serve dinner after 10pm in Cincy, that’s not a problem here. The Italian Sampler Plate will satisfy your taste-buds with it’s variety of Italian classics. This is the good stuff; homemade meatballs, Italian sausage, and ravioli blanketed in a delectable red sauce. They make an awesome Antipasto salad too. The decor is charming and traditional, the bar area looks as if it hasn’t changed a bit since opening in 1933. Besides the mouth-watering food, the restaurant is also famous from the movie Rainman. The infamous  “toothpick” scene was filmed here in 1988.

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Across the Licking River back into CovingtonKY we stopped in for a nightcap and a little music at Dee Felice. Dee Felice was opened in 1984 by longtime Jazz drummer and band leader Dee Felice. Decorated in New Orleans style with it’s marble floor, decorative tin ceiling, and dark wood, it is the place to go for the best live Jazz in the greater Cincinnati area.  The house band here is outstanding, located on a long narrow platform behind the bar the musicians play side by side across the length, the baby grand piano the endcap.  Jazz lovers sit at the bar tapping their feet in rhythm making eye contact with the other patrons as if to say “isn’t this incredible?” And it is!

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Road trip; Detroit to Cincinnati. Springfield, Yellow Springs, Clifton Gorge

20 Jun

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Our weekend destination was Cincinnati Ohio with a few stops along the way. We took I- 75 into Toledo, then followed the Scenic Maumee River to 235 South. Kris has a knack for taking the route less traveled from place to place, to him the ride should be as enjoyable as the destination. 235 is easy traveling, not a lot of traffic, plenty of curves, and pretty scenery, no cities to pass through here, only tiny hamlets and an abundance of farmland. At Bellefontaine we got on 68 and took it into Springfield Ohio.

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Springfield Ohio is located about mid-state and shares a similar history with Detroit. Route 40, a Historic National Road that began in Maryland near the Capitol, ended in Sprinfield for about 10 years before continuing westward. This made it very attractive to industrialists; from 1916 to 1926 10 automobile companies operated here. International Harvester was the leading employer building farm machinery and later trucks. The list of items produced here is staggering. Like many cities it has suffered as manufacturing continued to go overseas. Springfield is definitely a place worth visiting, remnants of the grandeur of days gone buy still remain in magnificent public buildings and grand homes. Wittenberg University, one of the most highly rated liberal arts universities in the nation can be found here. Frank Lloyd Wright’s only Prarie style home in the state of Ohio, the Westcott house, resides here as well and is open for tours. Be sure and visit the Heritage Center of Clark County, the architecture alone is worth the stop! Built in 1890 in the Romanesque style it was the original City Hall and Marketplace, oh what it must have been like to buy carrots and tomatoes in such surroundings! Exhibits were impressive; a 1920 Westcott Motor Car,  an old iron cannon, a horse drawn Champion Reaper, and several vintage International vehicles including a lumber truck and a Fire Truck. Signs from many of the local manufacturers hang from the ceiling emphasizing the prestige of this once industrial giant.The museum was much larger and even more interesting that we anticipated. Time to hit the road and find some lunch.

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Continuing south along 68 ,Yellow Springs, a tiny town of only 1.9 sq miles was our next stop. Founded in 1825 by a group of families  looking to create a Utopian community, part of that feeling still lingers, you might even say it has a hippie vibe.This is a haven for the Arts, galleries line the main thoroughfare along with cafes, modest sized shops and a cinema. Color coded trash cans dot the sidewalk urging you to sort and recycle your trash, words like local and organic are found on signs throughout town. Many restaurants offer outdoor seating overlooking Xenia Ave. Current Cuisine is a gourmet Deli we have eaten at many times, and did so again. There is a large selection of ready made food to choose from, everything looks appealing, so it’s hard to choose. A deli sandwich, salad, and an empanada did the trick for us. We took a stroll through town wandering in and out of shops enjoying the colorful mix of people you are bound to encounter while visiting. The Little Miami Bike Trail comes through Yellow Springs making it a welcomed stop for bicyclists.

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We veered off of 68 and went a short distance east on 343 to Clifton Gorge a state nature preserve. Also a regular stop for us when in this neck of the woods, it is a great way to stretch our legs and get some fresh air and exercise after being in the car for a prolonged time. Clifton Gorge is a spectacular example of post-glacial canyon cutting, sounds impressive doesn’t it? It is! The mile long scenic Gorge  trail takes you alongside the Little Miami Scenic River, showing off waterfalls and rapids along the way. Completely surrounded by multiple hues of green of the local flora everywhere you look is a photograph in waiting. Be sure and wear proper footwear as the trail can be slick, you will also traverse some rocky terrain and multiple steps cut into the stone. If you have the time and are feeling adventurous cross the footbridge and continue through John Bryan State Park, at the second footbridge cut back over and follow the original Pittsburgh-Cincinnati Stage Coach Route back. This is a 269 acre preserve that protects one of the most remarkable dolomite and limestone gorges in Ohio.

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Time had slipped away too quickly as usual, we got into Cincinnati, checked into our room located in the Northside district, then to Covington Ky for a (really) late dinner. We can always depend on Chez Nora for late night food and live music. The evening was warm with a slight breeze that beckoned us to dine on the rooftop. A view of the Cincinnati skyline, city lights shining against the night sky accompanied by good food, good music and good company. Goodnight.

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Gratiot Central Market, Roma Cafe, Germack, Mootown Creamery

15 Jun

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Eastern Market is without a doubt one of my favorite places in Detroit! Three of my best-loved activities; gardening, cooking, and shopping are all represented here….extensively. At this location since 1891 it is the oldest and largest open-air Farmers Market in the US, so it will take a few posts to describe all of the great things to do in the Eastern Market District. Come on down and check it out!

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Today we’ll start at the south end at Gratiot Central Market. If you like meat, you will be in heaven. The main aisle-way is lined with vendors such as; Randy’s Sausage, Wigley’s Corned Beef, and Ronnies Meats displaying their finest cuts of meat, I have never seen so many ribs in one place. Of course they have T-bones and porterhouse,ground beef and chicken, but add to that list; chicken feet, goat,oxtail, salt pork, rabbit and tripe. Small shops sell BBQ supplies and seasonings,there’s take out food and a fish market too. I love the cheese shop, you can purchase items from Calder Dairy here, I have a tip for you: Buy the Chocolate Milk…….  If you like to barbecue bring along a cooler because you’ll want to stock up, prices are easy on the wallet. 

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Walking down the Fisher Fwy service drive we poked our heads into Art Effect Gallery, they were getting ready for their Grand Opening that same evening, looking forward to stopping in next time we’re at the Market. A little further down on the corner of the service drive and Russell St is the Germack company’s store. Germack is the oldest roaster of pistachio nuts in the US. If you have a thing for pistachios either red or natural you’ve hit the jackpot! They sell a large variety of nuts and seeds along with delicious snack mixes,we purchased the Asian ZenSation mix, mmmmmmm, definitely stop in.

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Busy Bee Hardware located on the corner of Gratiot and Russell since 1918 has been in the same family for three generations. This is a real hardware store, if you need to repair something at home chances are you can find what you need right here. The store is a mix of old and new, it is somewhat a general mercantile with antique cabinets, a couple of vintage washing machines on display, and the only rope operated elevator in the city. The sign outside advertised pickle crocks, they still sell vegetable seeds like the old days, you can have a key made, and if you’re lucky, one of the owners will tell you a story or two. The place is great, seriously, you have to come in and walk around.

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All that shopping made us hungry, Roma Cafe, Detroit’s oldest Italian restaurant sits nearby on Riopelle, they have been serving classic Italian dishes since 1890. From the decor to the menu the atmosphere is unquestionably  old-time. Waiters wearing tuxedos serve you crusty bread with real butter, salads are prepared in the dining room where you can watch the action. We ordered Cannelloni and a Roma salad, the salad was really good, crisp lettuce, nice chunks of meat and peppers, seasoned with salt and pepper. The canneloni was excellent, tender meat filling in perfectly cooked pasta all smothered in red sauce and topped off with melted mozzarella, delicious.  

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There’s a new ice cream place on Russell St, so we had to save room for dessert! Mootown Creamery & More recently opened next door to Supino’s Pizza, which works out perfectly for both establishments. The store is just charming, walls are painted pastel mint green with a white tin ceiling, tables are also white with pastel colored chairs, somehow this place has the feeling of being in a beach town….really. Large beautiful posters of ice cream cones dress the main wall. Mootown serves Hudsonville Ice Cream made in Holland Michigan, the rear of the store is a gift shop with plenty of pretty things to catch your eye. It is the perfect addition to Eastern Market.

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Corktown Home Tour, Mudgie’s Deli

10 Jun

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Every June we look forward to the Historic Corktown Home Tour. Unlike a lot of the other historic neighborhoods in Detroit, Corktown is mostly made up of workers homes but don’t be fooled by their modest exteriors , you will be surprised if not stunned by what awaits inside! The interiors are not elaborate, this is not an area you find crystal chandeliers, marble floors, pewabic tile or third floor ballrooms, which in my opinion makes it all the more interesting!

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The original settlers here were Irish immigrants who largely came from County Cork, which of course is how it got its name. As a matter of fact, by the mid 19th century the Irish were the largest ethnic group in Detroit. Corktown is Detroit’s oldest neighborhood, established in 1834, it was put on the National Register of Historic Places in 1978.

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Homes here can be very deceiving, from the front many of them look quite small, but look down the side and you will see  that they are also very long. There is a mixture of architectural styles here, some two stories with Queen Ann influences, tiny worker cottages reflecting a bit of the federalist style are also a common sight. Since there are not a lot of interior details each owner can make it their own. Being able to walk through the houses is a real treat, you never know what you will find behind the front door. There are Victorian treasures with lovely tiled fireplaces, the very contemporary with bright red walls, vintage with great 50’s glass works and furniture, and modern with exposed wooden beams and free form counters. It’s an eclectic array of styles and personalities.  VIEW PHOTOS HERE

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Conveniently located on the corner of Porter and Brooklyn is Mudgie’s Deli, the perfect place for us to have lunch. We have known the owner Greg for many years, he does a great job with the place from its cheery orange walls and vintage tin ceiling to the artisan sandwiches, homemade soups and salads. The menu features many local products and vegan selections as well. Our “usual” is the Ivey; a delicious vegetarian sandwich with Greg’s house-made spinach spread, avocado, and an assortment of veggies, topped off with cheese and sunflower sprouts, along with a house salad it’s enough for two. The house specialty desserts are waffles, either the Fudgie Mudgie, or the Sweet Ruth, we went with Ruth. A warm bread pudding waffle, Calder Dairy Butter pecan ice cream melting into the indentations, and decadent caramel sauce, all topped off with whipped cream and a dusting of cinnamon, lip-smacking good!

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We had finished touring the homes, but had one last stop on the tour; Most Holy Trinity Roman Catholic Church. Most Holy Trinity parish was established in 1834 for the large Irish influx of the 1830’s, the current, larger building was built in 1855.  The interior comprises a nave and two side aisles divided by rows of Gothic arches. The rear balcony was added in 1890 and is where the 1867 tracker organ rests, it is the oldest existing organ built in the US, and the oldest still in it’s original location. We were lucky enough to have the pleasure of hearing the organist play as we walked the aisles of the church taking in the stained glass windows and magnificent architecture. Kris even got to go up in the tower and ring the church bells.

Corktown is a vital and stable community, residents are close knit and take pride in their property. In addition to the wonderful homes there are a number of restaurants and bars in this neck of the woods, with more to come in the near future, we’ll let you know !

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Unexpected Hamtramck ; Polish Disneyland, Art Center & Maria’s Comida

8 Jun

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There are hidden gems all throughout Detroit & its metro area, today I am going to tell you about “Polish Disneyland”. Make your way to Caniff then North on Klinger and just before it takes a jog at Carpenter go left in the alley ….yep the alley, make another quick left and look up! A man by the name of Dmytro Szylak is the creator of this fantasy-land perched upon two garage rooftops. It is a collection of found and homemade objects whimsically arranged in a way that just makes you smile. Come check it out.

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The Polish Art Center on Jos Campau was our next stop, I adore this enchanting shop where all things Polish can be found, seriously, if it’s Polish they have it. Books, maps and travel guides are nearest the entrance, about mid-store is one of my favorite areas, the food! Packages of cookies, jams, and candy in pretty packaging all calling to you to give them a try. There is one item I cannot resist, and if you like dark chocolate you MUST buy one. It’s a large rectangular chocolate bar in a cream and red wrapper made by E. Wedel , break off a square and let it melt in your mouth and you’ll know exactly what I mean. There is a beautiful array of Christmas ornaments and dolls, stoneware, amber and silver jewelry and music. I really enjoy walking around and looking at everything. This place is a mainstay in the Polish community, the owners are super friendly and helpful and very much involved in preserving Polish culture and traditions.

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Time for lunch. Maria’s Comida, also on Jos Campau, is a restaurant that quickly worked it’s way up on our list of favorites. A Mexican restaurant in Poletown may sound a bit unusual, but that’s not all, they actually serve Mexican Asian Fusion!? Everyone here is treated like a regular and come to think of it they probably are, because once you’ve eaten here; you’re coming back. The space is modern and attractive, have a seat and look over the menu. We are hooked on the Chorizo & Chicken Burrito, you have to have the gazpacho green beans with it, so good. The Tres Leches Cake is the best we’ve had, the food here rocks! Keep an eye out, their homemade Salsa and awesome BBQ sauce are coming to a store near you. UPDATE: Maria’s Comida restaurant closed on August 18 2012. The space will be used as a manufacturing facility to continue producing Maria’s homemade salsa’s and BBQ Sauce. We wish them all the best! 

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Uhhhhh, Yummmm !!

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More road trip……..Saugatuck MI

6 Jun

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Leaving Grand Rapids we had one goal in mind; Lake Michigan, through the years Kris has refined a scenic route. We leave Grand Rapids going west on Leonard Street, this is a beautiful road that winds along mimicking the Grand River.  The roadside abodes are charming, many have elaborate gardens, it is a lovely drive.  Leonard will take you into Spring Lake where you have to get on 31 to cross the Grand River and go into Grand Haven. The traffic in Grand Haven was alarming, we couldn’t get near the lake, the town appeared almost vacant as everyone was at the beach. At last we made our way to Lake Shore Av and zigged and zagged as necessary before arriving in Holland. A lap around the north and east side of Lake Macatawa and we were back on South Shore Dr, aka the scenic route. Our habit is to take that to 64th street all the way to Blue Star Highway(A2), once you are there Saugatuck is just a hop and a skip away. As soon as we made the turn towards town we could see the crowds of visitors, our chances of getting a place to park and then go eat were looking slim when we gratefully came across a vacant spot right along the river.

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We have been regular guests of Saugatuck for almost two decades now, it is one of our favorite escapes. We walked the town going in and out of shops, there’s a nice balance here of souvenir type items, art galleries, and boutiques. There is no shortage of places to eat; Kilwins has amazing chocolate, caramel corn and ice cream,  American Spoon has a storefront here as well, restaurants and cafes are everywhere, and of course there is waterfront dining.  We ate on the porch of a little cafe and did some people watching as well, afterwards a walk on the boardwalk gave us a chance to check out the boats. There is a pretty little park, Wicks Park, with benches and a gazebo that also makes for a great place to watch the boaters go to and from the big lake. We stopped in at Uncommon Grounds for a little break, I had an espresso shake, yummy, and Kris had an iced coffee with a delectable piece of coconut cheesecake. They have a nice deck with cafe tables to sit and overlook the activity on Hoffman St.

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On the other side of Blue Star Hwy is the city of Douglas, you can’t go see one and not go see the other, the area is routinely referred to as Saugatuck/Douglas, both have that small town America feel, with that laid back, friendly attitude. Recently the National Trust For Historic Preservation selected these cities as one of the Dozen Distinctive Destinations in the United States.

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Oval Beach is ranked one of the top 25 beaches in the world by Conde’ Nast, and one of the top two in the USA by National Geographic Traveler. Needless to say it is stunning! You can walk the white sand shoreline taking in the towering sand dunes, boats, and sand castles, time seems to stand still as you gaze out at the shimmering blue water. The road going into Oval Beach can be a madhouse, so be prepared. A lesser known alternative is Douglas Beach, parking is very limited, but we went late enough in the day that we secured a spot. Here you are on a bluff, so there is a set of wooden stairs that leads you down to the soft sandy beach. We ditched our shoes and started walking, after nearly two hours we knew we had to start the journey back home.

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It’s always hard to leave such a beautiful place, but the time had come. If you don’t enjoy white sandy beaches, gorgeous sunsets, quaint shops and tasty food, Saugatuck is not for you. Otherwise, come on out!!

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Roadtrip…….Grand Rapids; Meijer Gardens,Van Andel Public Museum

5 Jun

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We were hoping to get away for a little bit over the holiday weekend, with the prediction of sunshine and temperatures in the 80’s for Monday, the west coast of Michigan seemed an ideal place to go. We left Sunday morning and headed directly to Grand Rapids. We are regular visitors here, and have watched it change and reinvent itself over the years.  There are so many things to see and do here, you can easily spend a few days in town.

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We started with a visit to Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park, this place is incredible! The tropical conservatory is the largest in Michigan, along with a stunning collection of plants there are several water features, but that is only the beginning! The five-acre Children’s Garden is unlike any other I’ve seen, anywhere, and it’s not just fun for kids. There is an amazing tree house, get to it from a wooden stairway and elevated walkway, it even has a swinging bridge. Kids love to play in water, here  the bodies of water are actually the shape of  the Great Lakes, they surround the concrete patio area that is of course in the shape of Michigan, lots of splashing and giggling takes place here. The outdoor gardens are stunning, there are benches to sit and rest before visiting the Midwest’s most significant outdoor sculpture collection, seriously. Major works by artists with names like Rodin, Moore, Rickey, and Marshall Fredericks, very impressive. You can do a walking tour or take a tram. All in all there are 125 acres of nature and art, which go hand in hand beautifully.

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While downtown has been making great strides, now surrounding districts are too. Streets like Wealthy and Cherry are seeing a surge in independent entrepreneurs; boutiques, bakeries, and restaurants are popping up in these neighborhoods. We had lunch at the Cherry Deli on, well, Cherry. Order at the counter from an extensive deli menu, then take a seat, we went Al fresco, and your order will be brought out to you. Ours was a panini with a stack of turkey, crispy bacon, and melted cheese, all smothered in a herb mayo, excellent. The Pasta salad was quite good too, no mushy noodles here, all in all good food for a good price. We needed some time to re-charge our batteries, The Sparrows Coffee Shop and Newsstand is a relaxing place to hang out. Serving organic coffee and tea, they also sell local pastries and over 75 magazine titles and newspapers. It’s a cozy space located in the lower floor of a historic building, it seems to be a favorite of neighborhood residents. We had iced coffees and some kind of multi-grained bar with pieces of dried fruit that was scrumptious.

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The Grand Rapids Public Museum was next on our list, this is one of those spectacular museums with top of the line exhibits. With three floors of things to see and do plan on spending a couple of hours here. I always enjoy the “Furniture City” section, which is what Grand Rapids has been primarily known for. The “Streets of Old Grand Rapids” is very popular as is the “Habitats” display. There are life-size items suspended from the ceiling and in the galleria, learn about the history of Grand Rapids and the state of Michigan. One of the big attractions is the 1928 antique Spillman Carousel housed in the Cook Pavilion. It is one of only three of its style known to have been produced by the company. Take a ride; young or old, all are invited to enjoy a spin revolving to the music of a Wurlitzer band organ.

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We had dinner at The Winchester on Wealthy Street, it is a restaurant and bar, but it feels more like a bar. We had a nice dinner at a fair price, but it was pretty loud. Afterwards we went for a walk in the Heritage Hill Historic District, this is one of the largest urban historic districts in the United States. You could walk for hours and never get bored looking at the homes. They just held their 42nd annual home tour in May, this is the first time they scheduled it in spring, instead of fall. We have been on the tour probably a dozen times, and enjoyed the variety of stately homes each time. Grand Rapids hosts a large scope of architectural styles running the gamut from Queen Ann and Frank Lloyd Wright, all the way to Mid Century Modern.

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Back downtown we had a nightcap at one of the newer places in the city called The Viceroy. Come in the door and step back in time to the 1930’s. The decor is retro and cool, red is the preferred color here, from the tin ceiling and walls to tabletops and seats and it looks fabulous. A funky mix of musical styles play in the background adding to the atmosphere.  Their cocktail menu is unique in that in features a wide variety of timeless cocktails; a Perfect Rob Roy, an Old Fashioned, or Kris’s selection for the evening, a Sidecar. I went the boring route with a simple glass of wine, which by the way, was excellent, because one of us needed to be able to drive back to the hotel. Kris found his Sidecar quite enjoyable, and we had a great conversation about Detroit with the manager who had moved to Grand Rapids only recently from Ferndale. It was really a splendid place to end the evening, unique setting, unusual cocktails, and  peaceful enough to have a conversation without yelling across the table. Next time we’re in town we’ll definitely come back!

Just over two hours away from the D, Grand Rapids makes a great get-away.

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Preservation Wayne Midtown Tour, Detroit Brewery

2 Jun

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We began our Saturday with a Preservation Wayne Tour of Midtown. We met our group at Avalon Bakery on Willis and set out on foot to explore the area.  The guides are knowledgeable and friendly, and have lots of great information. I find that I notice so many more details of buildings when I am walking, for example I had never noticed the lion heads on the Stuber-Stone building before.  My favorite street in Midtown has to be West Canfield, construction began in the 1870’s  and was home to the wealthier residents such as doctors and attorneys. The homes are exquisite and well cared for, fine examples of Queen Ann, Second Empire, and Gothic Revival reside in this district.

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We traveled down Woodward, Canfield, Second, and Willis, admired places like The Whitney, the Garfield Building, and the Historic First Congregational Church. Lofts abound, rehabbing and reusing historic structures, bringing them back to life.  There are restaurants, bars, and small boutiques, this area is truly up and coming. Tours usually last around two hours, give or take, the cost is $10 per person. Preservation Wayne offers four different walking tours each Saturday from May through September, all beginning at 10 am. The highlight of their tour season is the Historic Theatres Tour which takes place this year on August 13, it is one of the best tours I have ever been on,  it fills up quickly so be sure to sign up early.  Click on their website for more details.

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All that walking made us hungry, being in Midtown we made the short drive over to Motor City Brewing Works for Pizza and Beer.  Walking in the door we were greeted by the smiling face of a friend who had also just arrived. The three of us headed up to the deck to enjoy both the sunshine and the food.  The more the merrier I always say, that way we can have  two kinds of pizza instead of just one! We always go for the salad of the day, this one was outstanding, a nice selection of baby lettuce, blue cheese crumbles, golden raisins, grape tomatoes, and the most awesome fruity vinaigrette, we’re guessing blueberry, it was so flavorful! For Pizza we went with the BBQ Chicken and the Maui, delicious as always. The crust is that great combination of crispy and chewy, cooked in a wood burning oven.  I usually have the Honey Porter, but they were out of it, so instead I had their seasonal Cider, which was quite nice and went perfectly with the meal and the weather.

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A large group of bicyclists started to arrive after completing the Motor City Bike and Brew Tour. Having finished lunch, we cleared out to give them room, and headed over to 1515 Broadway for dessert. Coincidentally, while sitting out front enjoying iced coffee, bumpy cake, and Techno from a nearby DEMF DJ, we were surprised to run into folks from Toronto and Grand Rapids embarking on yet another group tour of downtown.

Detroit, The Tourist Mecca………..

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