Bay City: Part II

23 Jun

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On our way to the bed and breakfast, we take a detour along the Saginaw River in search of the permanent mooring site of the USS Edson. I read that the destroyer had arrived in Bay City and was to open as the Saginaw Valley Naval Ship Museum in May. We continue to follow the river, just as we are about to give up, the enormous ship comes into view; at an overall length of 418 ft, it is quite a sight. A trailer sits off to the side, it’s early evening, we hope there’s still time to get a tour. Inside we are greeted warmly by volunteers, told we can start our tour immediately, we pay the admission and we are off. As we approach the destroyer I am taken aback by its size, our guide  is knowledgeable and friendly, he rattles off facts and figures effortlessly, here are a few; the USS Edson  is a Forrest Sherman-Class destroyer, 45 ft beam, 22 ft draught, 418 ft overall length. Commissioned in 1958, earned a reputation as a Top Gun ship, nicknamed “The Destroyer” and “The Grey Ghost of the Vietnamese Coast” as a member of the US Pacific Fleet, decommissioned in 1988.

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We go inside the ship, everything is painted the same shade of grey, hallways are narrow, the low ceiling is thick with wiring. We peek inside a series of different rooms, in some, walls are covered in nautical charts, in others bunks hang from chains and are stacked three high, officers had it better, one bed and their own bathroom. Everywhere I look I see switches, dials, gauges and knobs. As we walk our guide tells us stories about the Edson and the men who temporarily called the ship home. They had everything they needed; a barbershop, doctor, dentist, they could buy a candy bar and mail letters. We enter the galley area, there are maybe a dozen booths where the men would take their meals, with a crew of 17 officers and 218 men, they had to eat in shifts. We go down to the engine room where the 70,000 horsepower Worthington steam turbines are located, these monsters are capable of powering this massive ship to nearly 50 miles per hour, Wow, can’t imagine how loud it must have been down there, not to mention the heat. The pilot house is huge, we peer out the windshield at the Saginaw River, passing boats blow their horns and passengers wave as they pass. The Saginaw valley was home to many shipyards, the former Defoe Shipbuilding Company built many ships for the US Navy, making Bay City a perfect home for the USS Edson.

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We make our way back downtown to Populace Cafe on Washington Ave, time for a coffee break. Opened in 2012 the original owner ran the cafe, the wholesale business and most importantly roasted all the coffee. Though he still owns and runs Populace Coffee Company he sold the cafe to his barista, Lindsay, and the place is thriving. The decor is an eclectic mix of vintage and modern, chalkboard menus hang on the wall in pretty vintage frames. They have the usual espresso and coffee drinks you’d expect to find, but what really sets the shop apart are Lindsay’s homemade syrups; vanilla, dark chocolate and 3, yes I said 3, kinds of caramel! Kris had an iced coffee with the vanilla and loved it, unable to decide between the dark chocolate and the salty caramel, she made me a latte with both, yum! They also have a nice selection of teas and some tasty looking baked goods. Heck, we’d come to Bay City just for the coffee!

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At last we arrive at the Historic Webster House where we will be spending the night; built by Judge Thomas Webster in 1886 the 4,750 sq. ft. home is a lovely example of Queen Anne architecture. We are immediately greeted by innkeepers Frank and Gail, we walk through to the breakfast room where Frank points out a batch of freshly baked peanut butter chocolate chip cookies. The home is gorgeous; stained glass windows, polished hardwood floors, ornately carved wood trim and moldings, it is completely furnished in Victorian period pieces. Gail leads us to the stairway, she pauses at a table holding a platter of cheese and crackers, I catch the fragrance of red wine before I see the decanter and matching glasses, I love this place already! We ascend the steps up to the second floor where a guest refrigerator is stocked with soft drinks and more wine, Gail takes us into our room, it is splendid. The room is distinctly shaped, one wall is a series of large windows; a small table and two chairs are placed against a window. The bed is higher than a standard bed, the blanket is fluffed, it looks extremely comfortable. We have a fireplace and a small flat screen TV, the bathroom is roomy, I wish we were staying all weekend…… We help ourselves to a glass of wine, unpack a few things and get ourselves situated. If you’re looking for some luxe accommodations in Bay City, give this place a try!

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The Webster House is located in the Center Avenue Historic District, in 2011 the district was expanded to include 875 structures in a variety of styles from Gothic Revival and Italianate to Richardson Romanesque and Arts and Crafts. As we walk we pass grand manor homes, keep in mind this neighborhood was where industrialists, lumbermen and ship builders dwelled.  It is a perfect evening; water splashes in concrete fountains, Irises are blooming, lilacs perfume the air. The grass is deep green and lush, long walks lead to front porches bearing cement lions or gargoyles. Huge urns filled with annuals add a splash of color, ivy climbs the fireplace of a stately Tudor. There are also a number of “kit homes”, the Alladin and Lewis & Liberty Companies pioneered the manufacture of kit homes right here in Bay City. We arrive at a quaint little park; in a pond, water streams up from a whale and a dolphin, they look as though they have been entertaining children for decades. We take Center Street back to the bed and breakfast, have to freshen up for dinner.

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Everybody we talk to in Bay City tells us to have dinner at Old City Hall; as you may have guessed the building, opened in the late 1890’s was the city’s first city hall. Back in the logging days this area was known as “Hell’s Half Mile” for all of the rough activities that took place in the local saloons and brothels that stretched this section of road, eventually it forced the relocation on city hall. Today the restaurant looks like something you’d find in Birmingham or Ferndale, exposed brick walls, funky light fixtures made from empty wine and liquor bottles and a diverse menu. We begin our meal with the Thai lettuce wraps, a tasty blend of chicken, cashews and veggies smothered in a mild Thai sauce spooned into crisp romaine lettuce leaves, delicious. Our entrée of shrimp pad Thai arrived in a large bowl and smelled wonderful. A combination of shrimp, tofu, bean sprouts, egg and crushed peanuts the sauce was sweet and spicy, scrumptious.

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After dinner we walk down to the water front, the temperature has dropped quickly, we can see our breath when we speak, ah, Michigan in May! Lights across the river reflect on the still waters, pretty, a large white sculpture lights up Wenonah Park, the Delta College Planetarium looks super cool at night. The cold night air sends us back to the bar at Old City Hall; with 150 wines from around the globe and 23 beers on tap there is much to choose from. We sip our drinks and relax, it has been a fun and busy day.

Bay City: Part I

16 Jun

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We decided to get away for the holiday weekend, didn’t want to go somewhere that would be overly crowded, but still needed interesting things to do, good food, maybe even a water view…… let’s go to Bay City! If you haven’t been in a while (or ever) I think you will be pleasantly surprised at all this city on the Saginaw River has to offer. In the early days Bay City established itself as a major player in lumbering, milling and later ship building; destroyer escorts, guided missile destroyers and patrol craft all were built here for the Navy. These industries provided great wealth to area residents, but as we know, much of the great industry that once thrived in Michigan is now gone. I am pleased to say that Bay City appears to be on the upswing, recreating itself as an antique mecca and tourist destination; cute shops, nice restaurants, and 4 coffee houses, all downtown! Did I mention Madonna was born here?

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We began our visit at the Bay City Antiques Center on Water Street, it is said to be Michigan’s largest antique center, I don’t doubt it for a second. It is so massive I don’t even know how to begin to describe it; picture this: take every kind of antique you’ve ever seen, imagine a humongous building, put everything in there, shake the building up and down a few times, and there you have it. Whatever it is you’re looking for, it’s here, somewhere! We begin our adventure at the far end, this section is spread out over three levels, the basement contains old street signs, architectural salvage, record albums, vintage clothing, books and so much more. There is no rhyme or reason as to the way items are grouped and displayed; you have to look at everything. On the main floor a pot rack hangs from the ceiling, beautiful antique copper pieces hang aloof, old urns are spilling over with annuals in full bloom and a counter top holds box after box of antique postcards.

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We are told that this particular building was once an old department store, the third floor still retains the original ceiling fixtures. Tall cabinets with locked doors contain more expensive items; silver plate, old cameras, accordions and rare nautical pieces, there is so much to look at! We spend at least an hour and a half walking through the antique center, a “Good Vibes” drum set makes us smile with its cartoon humans decked out in bell bottoms and platform shoes. Glassware ranges from depression glass with fine patterns and pale colors to avocado green tumblers from the 70’s, cool stereo consoles share space with beer signs, automotive memorabilia, and sheet music. Salvaged doors lean against one another touching a wall, we see at least three different pianos along with pretty antique china place settings. Furniture runs the gamut from Art Deco to Colonial, Victorian to Mod, there’s a telephone booth, an awesome wood cabinet that opens up into a full bar and an Apollo 13 carafe complete with matching glasses. You want toys? How about a really old pinball machine, an A&P semi truck, baby dolls and games. Need a Speed Buggy lunch box, soda fountain, sewing machine or juke box? We spied a dining room set we still think we may have to have…….Further down Water Street, the window display at Americana Co. Antique Mall stops us in our tracks; a Mid-Century paradise of blonde furniture, quirky lamps, funky chairs and a cool TV. Here we go again….. 

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After all that visual stimulation we needed a snack, lucky for us the St. Laurent Brothers factory outlet is right across the street. Opened in 1904 the St Laurent brothers started out roasting peanuts for making natural peanut butter. Through the years demand increased to roast more kinds of nuts, today you can buy a variety from Almonds to Cashews to Macadamias. The inside still looks like an old-fashioned candy store; in addition to roasted nuts you can purchase hand-made chocolates in milk, dark and white, candied fruit, saltwater taffy, multi-colored suckers and other goodies. Feeling energized from our sugar buzz, we continue to explore Water Street. We wander in and out of little shops, I’d say most cater to antique lovers and women away for a girlfriends weekend, lots of attractive things for the home and garden. We see a coffee shop and head inside…….WOW! Beatles and Beans Coffee Emporium is a top to bottom, side to side and all the way around Beatles themed coffee shop, you have to see it to believe it. If it has the face of Paul, Ringo, John or George it’s here; photos, record albums, figurines, posters, books, trinkets, lunch boxes, British flags, even TV Guide covers. Beatles music plays in the background, retro style furniture provides patrons with a place to sit and enjoy a coffee, smoothie or sandwich. The ceiling is covered in old 45’s from multiple artists, the collection is impressive. If you are a Beatles fan, put this shop on your list of places to visit! We make a quick stop at Studio 23 The Arts Center and take a peek at the watercolor exhibit on display, the work is marvelous. The Art Center provides everything from wonderful exhibits, exhibit space and educational opportunities to the community of Great Lakes Bay Area.

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We can deny our hunger no longer, we walk further down Water St to Stein Haus for lunch. Resembling an old German pub, the place is amazing! The wood plank ceiling is painted red, beer steins hang from hooks as far as the eye can see, above the bar a fancy tin ceiling gleams in gold, old German beer signs hang on the wall, multiple cabinets are filled with antique beer steins painted with elaborate signs, drinkware and old bottles are also displayed, it’s quite a sight. Seated at a table we glance over the menu, German food is a must, as we wait for our meal to arrive we walk around a little checking out the amazing collection of steins. The food arrives quickly; the fruit and cheese plate is an assortment of sliced cheese, a dollop of goat cheese, fresh fruit and a variety of crackers, it’s all good. The Stein Haus Schnitzel is a lightly breaded pork cutlet sautéed in butter, it’s tender and tasty. Served with hot German potato salad and sweet and sour Red cabbage, it makes a great combination. We make quick work of eating and are back outside in no time.

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A short walk away on Washington stands the State Theatre, built in 1908, it started life as the Bijou and was host to both Vaudeville acts and burlesque. In 1930 the building was renovated, they called on C Howard Crane to do the job. If you’ve ever been to the Fox Theatre in Detroit you have seen Crane’s work. The exterior of the building is brick with intermittent Mayan symbols, a vertical sign spelling out STATE rises from the marquis. The box office is located in the lobby, a young woman named Ashley greets us and asks if we need assistance. We explain we are in from Detroit and love old theatres, we wondered if we might have a look around. Of course, she says, and proceeds to turn on all the theatre lights, seriously.  The theatre has recently undergone a $4 million dollar renovation, it’s stunning! The auditorium is made to look like a Mayan Temple, golden walls are highly textured and resemble individual bricks, the grand curtain is currently closed, areas surrounding the stage are colorful and highly detailed. Matching cut-outs on side walls are striking and glow in red, tiles featuring faces and symbols are scattered in the walls, the colors are warm shades of terra cotta, olive green, chocolate brown and a medium blue, opulent sconces direct light up and down. The ceiling is spectacular; divided into three sections and divided by a large molding, the middle section is covered in hieroglyphics, while the other two are a lovely sky blue. We take the stairs to the balcony for an overall view, the hallway has sort of an angular barrel ceiling, photographs of performers hang on the walls. There are more decorative symbols up here, but further apart, details are everywhere. We enter the balcony area, it is a breath-taking sight, we have the entire 552 seat theatre to ourselves, how cool is that? Back downstairs we talk with Ashley a little more, she tells us a little about the restoration; the current carpet is a duplicate of the original, reconstructed from a scrap found in the building, at one time the auditorium had all been painted over in white, you have to wonder who thought that was a good idea….we thank her for her time. The day has passed quickly, it’s time to check into our Bed & Breakfast, the night is still young……

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Grosse Pointe: Yacht Club, Red Crown & Dessert

10 Jun

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There’s nothing quite like a drive down scenic Lakeshore Drive on a sunny day; sparkling blue water on one side, grand homes on the other,  the perfect road for a relaxing drive. Recently we noticed a sign inviting the public to an open house at the Grosse Pointe Yacht Club in Grosse Pointe Shores,we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to check it out. The GPYC is a private marina and sailing club, the Italian Renaissance style clubhouse opened July 4th, 1929; nestled along the Lake St Clair shoreline it is highly recognizable with its 187 ft steeple. Amenities such as a 268-well harbor, 3 restaurants, 4 bars, an Olympic sized swimming pool, bowling alley and Grand Ballroom have earned it the title “number one yacht club in America” every year since 1997. 

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As we pass through the gate the stucco and tile building comes into full view, it’s gorgeous. A bronze statue of a captain at the wheel, Rhythm of the Waves by Wheeler Williams stands in the courtyard of the building. On the lawn is a display of cars, new and vintage Cadillacs look equally at home in the setting. A few muscle cars have also made an appearance ; Plymouth, Ford and Chevrolet are all represented in models such as ‘Cuda, Mustang and Corvette. On the left are a couple of boats that will participate in the upcoming Gold Cup Races that will take place in Detroit July 12-14, an array of vintage boats are arranged in the parking lot.

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 It takes a minute or two for my eyes to adjust from the bright outdoors to inside the clubhouse, it is elegant and distinguished. We traverse the foyer to the rotunda, a recessed archway holds a statue of 3 lovely young maidens on a pedestal donated by a club member. To the right is a sweeping staircase that takes us into the Grand Ballroom, today they are serving Sunday brunch, which, by the way, looks amazing. The room itself makes me feel as if I am in a castle; huge windows are trimmed in stone, a massive fireplace anchors the far wall, flags hang at an angle from short poles mounted just below the stunning wood beam ceiling. Next we wander into the main dining room; the octagon shaped wood floor supports a gold capped column on each corner, in the center the ceiling forms a dome with port hole shaped windows. Light streams in from the large windows lining the perimeter of the room, elegant paintings decorate the walls, wow!

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We exit through the back door, I feel like I am at a fancy resort somewhere far away; the sky is a flawless blue, the water in the harbor turquoise and still, boat wells are stuffed to capacity with the latest yachts on the market; this is the Great Lakes Boating Festival. We walk up and down docks, massive yachts are anchored for the weekend, many invite you aboard to check out the latest and greatest in life on the water. To say the vessels are well appointed would be an understatement! Fine leather upholstery, flat screen TV’s, luxurious bedrooms, the kitchens have more counter space than some apartments. Drawers are custom made and fitted specifically to glassware and silverware, cooktops, microwaves, you name it. Lounging areas are plush, usually done in light colors, rooms feel open and comfortable. After touring several impressive yachts we walked to the end of the dock overlooking Lake St Clair, from this vantage point it looks as if it goes on forever, sky and sea meeting somewhere out on the horizon. 

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The fresh air and sunshine have built up our appetites, Red Crown on Kercheval in Grosse Pointe Park is now serving Sunday brunch, that’s where we’re headed. Located in a quaint old Standard Oil gas station, the building has been remodeled into a cozy dining space. There are a variety of seating options; patio, main dining room and bar. Though all of them look inviting we choose a high-top table in the bar, by the window, of course. They did a wonderful job making the interior feel comfortable and homey, today the large glass roll-up doors are open, a subtle breeze sweeps through the building. The ceiling has been removed from the bar area exposing wood and brick, natural light fills the room. The restaurant serves “American Comfort Food”; meatloaf, fish and chips, brisket, ribs, nostalgic-type dishes. The brunch menu has a little bit of everything; we order the Butter Lettuce Salad, topped with avocado, grilled sweet onion, spicy fried peanuts, maytag blue and tossed in a smoked tomato vinaigrette, it’s wonderful, a great mixture of flavors and textures. We choose the Smoked Beef Brisket Hash for our entree and we are not disappointed. The brisket is perfectly cooked, fork tender and delicious. Accompanied by caramalized onion, potato and piquillo pepper, a fried egg finishes it off, yum! Adult beverages come in the form of craft cocktails, craft beer and craft wines, today PBR is also on special. Red Crown is a great addition to the charming business district.

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With the temperature in the 80’s we decide to cap off our afternoon with ice cream, there’s a new place over on Fisher Rd called Sno Go,  we’re going to give it a try. Located in a cute little red brick building, the interior walls are covered in photographic murals of snow covered mountains. Excited patrons have the run of the place; cups are available in 3 sizes, the rest is up to you. 10 flavors of frozen yogurt and custard are dispensed at the back wall, if you think it’s hard choosing a flavor (or two), wait until you see the selection of toppings. Similar to a salad bar a dozen or so items such as cookie dough, snow caps, Heath Bar, Whoppers and the like are chopped into bite-size pieces, mounted along the left wall you will find bins of sprinkles, nuts, gummy bears, pretzels and such you can add to your cup. You’re not done yet, your creation isn’t complete without a little hot fudge, caramel, peanut butter or butterscotch. I saved the best part for last: containers are a flat price, pick the $2 cup, and when you get to the register it’s $2, no scales, no surprises here. We fill our cup with an assortment of ice creams and toppings, we have a seat outdoors and dig in, oh yeah, we’ll be back! UPDATE: I am sorry to say Sno Go is now closed.

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Hamtramck: Saint Florian Strawberry Festival

4 Jun

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There are certain things you can count on in life: Spring follows Winter, night follows day, cake on your birthday, fireworks on the 4th of July and the St Florian Strawberry Festival every May. This year we met up with a couple of our friends who had not yet been to the church or the festival. The four of us packed ourselves into our 2-door Wrangler, we arrive at St Florian, surrounding streets have been declared Strawberry Festival Blvd for the weekend. The imposing brick and stone building can’t help but attract your attention with its handsome wood doors, stained glass windows, finely carved stone a spire that rises 200 feet into the sky. People and activity are everywhere; from a large tent we hear music as Polish dance ensembles perform traditional dances, the air carries the distinct aroma of Polish food. There is a buffet of items such as perogi and meatball dinners, Polish beer and chrusciki (angel wings). Next we head to social hall where the festivities continue.

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The party continues downstairs, the space reminds me of the days when big family gatherings were held in basements. Fold-out paper strawberries hang from the drop ceiling, round tables are covered in pastel colored cloths, a large bar hugs one side of the wall, and then there’s the food! Volunteers have spent countless hours preparing city chicken and stuffed cabbage, Polish Village supplies the sauerkraut, Kielbasa comes from Bozek, New Palace Bakery makes the cheesecake, cookies and everybody’s favorite, paczki; it is a true neighborhood affair. At a nearby table parishoners are hard at work pouring homemade batter into a waffle iron, I gaze dreamily as the baked waffle is topped with fresh strawberries in their own syrup, a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a dollop of fresh whipped cream, I immediately take my place in line. Each of us gets something different; we take a seat at one of the tables and dig in. The warmth of the waffle melts the ice cream ever so slightly, Kris and I take large bites being sure to get a bit of everything on the fork; strawberries are sweet, the waffle tender, simple and delicious! The Dyna Dukes are onstage, they begin to play a polka, suddenly the dance floor is crowded with couples wearing smiles of delight. Upstairs, tours of the church are being offered, we make our way there and wait for it to begin.

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I love to see the look on people’s faces when they enter the church for the first time; a mixture of wonder and amazement. Designed by Ralph Adams Cram in the Gothic style, the church opened in 1928. It is visually stunning; the nave is made up of six bays topped with a rib vault ceiling painted a deep blue, ribs are accentuated with gold paint. The main aisle is flanked by 2 smaller aisles, stained glass windows made by Kase Company in New York line the walls. The altar is magnificent; a series of five windows depict polish saints, the altar piece a work of art from Florence Italy. The organ loft is illuminated by a large, jewel-like, rose stained glass window, the organ itself, a 1928 Austin Electric Opus # 1528, completely renovated in 2008. Walls look like stone, stenciled designs decorate every surface, light fixtures dangle from long chains, large round ones are made of wood, smaller elongated fixtures are glass, all are exceptional. We walk around in awe, Kris, busy as usual, taking photos until the tour begins.

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We take our seats in the first few rows of pews, a local man, knowledgeable in the history of both St Florian and Hamtramck will be our guide. He tells us about the early days, about 1901, when Hamtramck was still a village filled with farms. Soon afterward automobile manufacturers began setting up shop; Dodge, Packard and Ford. Eastern European immigrants began to settle in the area, there were many jobs to fill. In 1910 the population in Hamtramck was 3559, in 1920 it was 48,615 and in 1930 it rose to 56,000 people; imagine it, all those people living in a city of only 2 square miles! St Florian parish began in 1908, before long they had outgrown their church, with a plan for a new building, working class parishoners sacrificed what they could to build the new church at a cost of $500,000.00 The current building opened in 1928, American Architecture Magazine named it the best new church in America in 1929. They say at one time there were 23 factories and 43 grocery stores in Hamtramck, then as now there was no shortage of bars. At one time Dodge Main employed 45,000 people, sadly the factory closed in 1979. The good news is GM built a new factory on the land where they proudly build the Chevrolet Impala and Volt. Today’s Hamtramck is a mix of people from Eastern Europe to the Middle East, there are Mosks, and churches of Catholic, Baptist and Evangelical faiths. St Florian still offers mass in both Polish and English and looks as good as ever.

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Coming from St Florian and being in Poletown we have lunch exactly where you’d expect….a Bosnian restaurant! Located on Caniff across the street from the post office Restaurant Palma is located inside what looks to be a family home. The inside is quaint; a stained wood wainscoting lines the walls, tiny white lights shine from behind it. Tables are round and covered with linen table cloths, a single rose decorates each table, walls are pale green and yellow and hanging plants add an airiness to the space. Our young waitress arrives with menus in hand, we order diet cokes and look them over, yikes….it’s written in Bosnian! When she brings our drinks we ask for assistance in ordering, nice as can be she tells us about different dishes, we place our order and wait for the food to arrive. The dishes come out together, we have a small cabbage salad: finely shredded cabbage with a mild vinegar type dressing. The Cevapi is a Bosnian main-stay; tiny skinless sausages of ground meat served on a huge roll called Lepinja. The bread or Lepinja is fantastic, soft, fluffy and delicate there is nothing I can compare it to, slightly sweet, it has soaked up some of the juice from the Cevapi, delicious! The Cevapi itself is very tasty, it reminds me a bit of a Croation dish I have had. Served with sour cream for dipping, sliced raw onion and seasoned french fries, it is a hearty meal. We picked the stir fry for a bit of variety, tender chicken chunks and a large variety of veggies it is well seasoned and flavorful, yum! It has been wonderful day filled with beautiful architecture, interesting stories from the past and delectable food, giving us an even greater appreciation for all that surrounds us.

Tecumseh & Hidden Lake Gardens

29 May

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Springtime in Michigan is a short-lived wonder of Tulips, Daffodils and flowering trees; it’s when the heavenly scent of Lilac and Honeysuckle permeate the air. I love Spring. Hidden Lake Gardens is one of the best places to enjoy nature any time of year, but Spring is extraordinary. Located in Tipton Michigan, the gardens are nestled in the scenic Irish Hills. In 1926 Harry A Fee fulfilled his dream of owning a private lake by purchasing Hidden Lake and the surrounding 200 acres. He began creating a private garden laid out as a series of pictures, designing striking groupings of  plants and trees, he fabricated picturesque scenes for every season.  Wanting to share this beauty with the public, he donated everything to MSU in 1945. Expanding through the years, it is now a 755 acre botanical garden and arboretum. One of the nicest features of the park is the 6 miles of paved road that leads you through wooded areas and past breathtaking views, making the natural beauty accessible to everyone. For the more adventurous, there are 5 miles of hiking trails and picnic areas.

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We arrive at the gardens, pay our admission at the gatehouse, and begin the drive, in the distance I see a crabapple tree covered in fluffy white blooms; we have timed our visit well. Hosta Hillside is to our left, we park so we can get out of the car for a better look. We walk down to the lake, the water is still and clear, we see fish near the shoreline. I turn back toward the car, a multitude of Hosta’s are sprouting from the Earth, the magenta blooms of a Redbud break up the mass of green, a large shrub is covered in delicate yellow flowers. From here I will drive, allowing Kris to take photos; the road is a narrow one lane that snakes past the lake, through the trees. A stacked stone wall lines one side of the roadway, sunlight filters through Oak and Hickory leaves creating patterns on the asphalt, Creeping Myrtle is already blooming.  The road winds, twists and turns as we climb gentle hills, a deer stands in a grassy area unfazed by passing cars. Next the Dwarf and Rare Conifers take center stage, with over 500 specimens it is one of the finest collections in the country. The conservatory comes into view, we park again and go indoors.

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Inside the domes there is a definite mid-century feel to the architecture, narrow concrete pathways lead us through different climates. Brightly colored annuals are tucked into hanging baskets, Hibiscus and potted Geraniums mingle side by side, Palm trees are tall, nearly reaching the ceiling, we see trees that produce coffee and chocolate A large pot of Fuschia catch my eye, the flowers an amazing combination of cream, lavender and pink, a trumpet vine climbs a trellis. The arid dome is home to funky, woody plants bearing bronze colored flowers, cactus come in all shapes and sizes, some in bloom, I think the most unusual looking specimens are usually found in the arid display. The lathhouse is basically an outdoor living room; complete with comfy couches and chairs, shade loving ferns and Begonias take respite here, all that’s missing is a pitcher of lemonade. The bonsai display is just outside the lathhouse, tiny examples of White Cedar, Japanese Maples, Evergreens and Oak sit atop tall pedestals. It’s interesting to take the time to read about each specimen, some are quite old. Today they all seem to enjoying the warmth of the sun.

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Back in the car we continue to meander through the grounds, the area is more open and grassy as we near the exit. We finally reach the Arboretum, a large collection of native and exotic trees; Beech, Ash, Maple, ornamental shrubs, lilacs and what we came to see: flowering crabapples! As we get closer I see dozens of trees decked out in blossoms, I am in awe at the sight. The road leads us past trees that seem to be made of giant plumes of flowers. White crabapple trees are densely covered, branches look almost fluffy. Shades of pink run the gamut from the most pale to a deep raspberry color; the view is incredible, as is the scent. Random groupings hug the landscape, I keep looking from front to back as we idle by, this is definitely the showstopper in the gardens today, I’m so glad we came!

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We are headed to Tecumseh for lunch, we haven’t spent a lot of time here, so it will be fun to check it out. On our second pass down the main street (M-50) a building on one of the side streets catches Kris’s eye; a trip around the block leads us to Evans Street Station, where we will be having lunch. Formerly a city fire station, the building has been renovated into a “destination restaurant”. With a focus on farm to table they partner with many of the local growers in designing their menu. We walk around the back to the entrance and find a charming patio set up with tables and sunny yellow umbrellas, today we will be enjoying our meal Al fresco. Our waiter arrives promptly with water and menus, it doesn’t take long for us to decide. We place our order and chat with our waiter getting a bit of the lowdown on Tecumseh, before we know it plates of food arrive. The wedge salad was perfectly crisp, topped with herbed buttermilk dressing, crisp bacon, thinly sliced radish, peeled cherry tomato and a sprinkle of white cheddar, it was delicious. The Cuban sandwich is served on Avalon farm loaf; stuffed with shaved salami, prosciutto, house made pickles, Jarlsberg cheese and Dijon mustard it is grilled to a perfect crunch. The variety of flavors and textures in the sandwich makes it outstanding. What a great find.

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Tecumseh has a lovely downtown, the streetscape a colorful combination of 2 and 3-story brick buildings. At just over 5 square miles this was one of the first three settlements in the Michigan territory. The city became a manufacturing town in the 1930’s when Raymond Herrick founded Tecumseh Products, makers of refrigeration compressors. The first hermetically sealed compressor was made here in 1938, and the first window air conditioner was produced here in 1947. Herrick learned mass production techniques from Henry Ford himself, during WWII Tecumseh produced artillery shells for the Allied forces. In 1956 Tecumseh Products purchased one of the largest manufacturers of small gasoline engines in the US, Lauson Manufacturing Company, creating Tecumseh Power Company, engines were made here until 2007.

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Today the city has reinvented itself as a tourist destination. Historic buildings are filled with businesses such as restaurants, specialty shops, a bakery, winery and home decorating stores. We stroll down the street roaming in and out of shops, stopping in at the Spotted Cow Ice Cream Shop for a little dessert. Formerly a bank, the shop maintains the gorgeous marble counter and tile floor from its banking days. Walls are bright pink, the aroma of homemade waffle cones make it hard to concentrate, they have it all; soft serve frozen yogurt, hand dipped cones, sundaes and shakes. Kris and I each get a scoop, and it’s wonderful. As we finish our walk through downtown we pass several outdoor sculptures, part of Art Trail Tecumseh, we then go further on into the residential area. It’s like going back in time, homes are are large and elegant, a mixture of antique architecture; Victorian, Federal, no two houses are the same. Some are constructed of brick, most are wood; facades are highly detailed with ornamental trim and railings, delightful. Alas, it’s time to head back, located only 60 miles southwest of the city, what a great place to spend the day.

Hola Detroit!

23 May

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It is a  gorgeous Sunday afternoon in Southwest Detroit as throngs of people line Vernor Hwy in anticipation of the Cinco de mayo parade. Cinco de mayo is a celebration of the victory of the Battle of Puebla and is celebrated annually in the Mexican-American communities in the US.  People are stacked four and five deep along the route, as we near Most Holy Redeemer we see a break in the crowd and take our place among them. The mood is distinctly festive, the street a sea of green, white and red, Mexican flags in a variety of sizes are being waved high in the air. Alongside Luna’s Bakery a stand is selling glasses of cold juice; mango, pineapple, honeydew and pomegranate. We duck inside for a cookie, purchase our juice and are back on the other side of the street before the parade begins. Pedestrians continue to crowd the sidewalks as the activity begins.

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Music fills the air as the sun shines brightly overhead; folks in traditional Mexican dress stride down the street, vaqueros wearing sombreros and embroidered shirts ride high upon perfectly groomed horses. Banners bearing names of local restaurants are draped across the front of antique cars and semi trucks, a huge black semi carries a multi-piece band on its bed. Representatives of Wayne State University, community groups and mounted police join in the fun. Senorita’s in colorful dresses toss strands of beads into the crowd, others toss handfuls of candy to the smallest spectators; the line of participants stretches long into the horizon. As the parade finally winds up we  head over to see the Blessing of the Low Riders near the Michigan Welcome Center.

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Cool custom low riders are parked irregularly up and down the street, swarms of people make the lanes nearly impassable. A Cadillac Brougham in silver and magenta wears intricate pinstripe patterns, a red Buick Regal resting on the driver’s side tires gives us insight into what kind of stunts the hydraulics are capable of. 1960’s Chevy Impalas seem to be the vehicle of choice here, many are convertibles, decked out in amazing paint jobs, they are simply works of art. Chunky red metalflake  adorns one vehicle, designs in orange and yellow jump out at you, the red velvet interior is ultra sweet. There are lowered Monte Carlos and more unusual, a vintage car from the 40’s in white with a brown painted roof. At first a blue Buick Regal looks rather plain, that is until you notice the amazing abstract design  in turquoise, silver and lavender that adorns the roof! Pinstriping is found everywhere; colors, width and style vary from vehicle to vehicle, the scene is eye candy for professional and amateur photographers alike. We spend a little more time at the celebration, off to the left a DJ plays tunes as a group of break dancers take turns showing off their best moves. A Mariachi band assembles on a nearby stage an begins to play traditional Mexican songs. White tents cover tables selling souvenirs, T-shirts and food. Speaking of food, it’s time for lunch!

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When looking for fried chicken in Detroit, the southwest district is probably not the first area that comes to mind, it will now. Over on Junction just north of Vernor is Pollo Chapin; a little yellow house trimmed in green, serving up some of the best fried chicken in the D along with Guatemalan specialties. Inside you will find a small dining room and a counter for placing carry-out orders; a large brightly colored menu is mounted on the wall. We are eating in, we seat ourselves at a small round table and begin the process of deciding what to eat. Chicken comes in regular and spicy versions, combos vary by the number of pieces and sides. We order a three-piece; two regular fried, one spicy, our sides are curtido and egg noodle salad. On our waitresses suggestion we add a chicken tamale and a side of slaw. First to arrive is a bowl of house made chicken noodle soup, it’s delicious. On the table a large glass jar is filled with homemade pickled vegetables. Only halfway through the soup the rest of our food arrives, plates are piled high with scrumptious fried chicken and colorful salads. While Kris digs into the chicken I unwrap our Guatemalan tamale (tamal), wrapped in a banana leaf the masa is made with broth and lard producing a moist, rich and fluffy outside to a tasty filling of chicken, vegetables and spices, yum! The slaw is a combination of cabbage and cilantro, there’s some heat to it too, very tasty. The chicken is cooked perfectly, juices flow as we peel off chunks, the spicy sauce is flavorful without being overpowering. The egg noodle salad is excellent, lots of black pepper, the curtido a blend of cabbage and beets has a nice taste. We rest our forks and sit back in our chairs as our server reappears with a complimentary plate of sopapillas for dessert. Portions are generous and the food is excellent.

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On our way out of southwest we make one last stop at Chilango’s Bakery on W. Vernor; a tip from our friend The Detroit Foodie. Before we enter we are greeted by the aroma of fresh-baked goods filling the air, we open the door to find rack after rack of fresh from the oven items cooling on metal trays. On the left, glass cases are filled with everything from cookies to sweet breads. The bakery is self-serve, simply grab a tray and a pair of tongs and help yourself. Spanish is the primary language spoken here, but staff members are happy to answer questions as best they can. The empanadas with fruit filling are one of my favorites, bright pink cookies are dusted with a layer of powdered sugar, cream cheese and cherry filling spill out from  pastries on the cooling rack, it all looks wonderful. We fill a tray with an assortment of goodies, the cashier packs them carefully in a white paper bag. Back in the car I am already thinking about which one I will have for breakfast.

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Detroit Film Theatre

16 May

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There is something very appealing to me to sit and watch a good movie on a rainy afternoon, on a recent Sunday we headed over to the Detroit Film Theatre to do just that. The 1,200 seat auditorium was built as part of the Detroit Institute of Arts in 1927, a collaborated effort of Paul Philippe Crete and C Howard Crane, the theater is gorgeous! For the last 30 years the theater has been host to acclaimed documentaries  subtitled foreign language films, restored classics, independent and silent films and director’s retrospectives. Today we are traveling to France, the year is 1971, the film, Max et les Ferrailleurs, parlez-vous francais?

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We find a parking space near the John R entrance, we purchase tickets in the outer lobby, the floor and walls are marble, the ceiling highlighted by a series of simple gold lines. The inner lobby is more decorative; the ceiling is embellished in gold, silver and copper, wonderfully ornate wrought iron floor lamps emit a soft light, the drinking fountain is a work of art itself. We follow the terazzo floor to a wonderful curving staircase leading to the mezzanine level; the back of each step beautifully decorated with lustrous Pewabic Tiles. At the top is the Crystal Gallery, originally a reception space, now a cafe, the room is breathtaking! The vaulted ceiling is two stories high, a row of stunning chandeliers dangle from above, floor to ceiling crystal reflecting walls cap off both sides. The windows are mammoth in size, allowing natural light to stream in, the oval space above them finely detailed. The cafe is a the perfect place to have a glass of wine, a cup of coffee, or a light snack before or after a film.

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Decorated in deep blue, gold and silver, the auditorium itself is lavish, opulent, magnificent. On each side of the stage mock box seat areas are capped with splendid gold grates, a single face rests at the peak. A ring of gold rectangular grates depict cherubs delighting in a bounty of fruits and vegetables surround the theatre. The ceiling and walls had to be designed around the Cassavant Feres classical pipe organ, fine details saturate the auditorium; a spectacular curved molding that joins wall and ceiling, Art Deco style grills along the back wall, C Howard Crane’s influence is obvious. The lights dim, we take our seats, the movie begins. It takes just a few minutes to acclimate myself to read the subtitles and watch the film simultaneously. Billed as a crime drama the story takes us through the planning of a bank heist, a detective seeking revenge and the complicated life of a beautiful woman in love with two men. C’est la vie!

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When the movie ends it is time for dinner, we are grabbing a bite to eat at Honest ? Johns over on Selden. A local favorite for many years the menu offers something for every taste; chicken and waffles, burgers and fries, salads, sandwiches and even vegetarian selections. We choose a booth by a window and pour over the menu, we place our order with the very friendly waitress and wait for our food to arrive. Restaurant patrons range from suburban couples and bar stool regulars to college students and hipsters, everybody feels at home here. We hear the clanking of balls from a game of pool taking place on the other side of the divider, neon signs sport phrases like “Sobriety Sucks” and “Men Lie”. Our food arrives and it looks delicious, the hardest part is waiting for Kris to take the pictures before we can dig in. The spinach salad is great; tender baby spinach, crisp turkey bacon, sweet vidalia onions and grape tomatoes served with a curry mustard dressing. The spinach artichoke melt tasted even better than it looked; soft grilled pita bread filled with spinach, artichoke, provolone and parmesan cheese, served with a side of chipotle-basil mayo, I’d come back for this sandwich anytime. 

Suburban Beauty: Holland Ponds

10 May

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It seemed as thought Winter would not let go of its stronghold over southeast Michigan. As I considered the possibility of having to wear a winter coat in May, something wonderful happened; Spring arrived! Anxious to get out and enjoy nature Kris and I paid a visit to Holland Ponds, located in Shelby Township. This park has a fascinating story. Holland Ponds 200 acres was actually three parks in the prohibition era; Green Glen, Swiss Valley and Warsaw Park. Back in the 1920’s parks along the Clinton River were popular recreation areas for Detroiters looking to escape the city; with picnic areas, live music, bars, dance pavilions, swimming and fishing, it provided great entertainment for very little money. Carloads of folks would head to the parks on hot summer days creating traffic jams on Ryan road, it is estimated that the three parks combined drew as many as 15,000 people in one day, wow! Eventually the parks were closed to the public because of contamination leakage from the nearby G&H Landfill; it was one of the worst contamination sites in the nation. The EPA swooped in and the area became an EPA Superfund site, an ecological success, in 2001 the 200 acre site was declared free of contaminants and transferred to Shelby Township; hence Holland Ponds was born.

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Today the park is home to ponds, marshland and woods, there are hiking trails, wildlife and the largest Great Blue Heron Rookery in SE Michigan. We begin our visit with a walk on the main trail, there are ponds on both the left and the right. On the left Canada Geese float silently by, an anxious mother to be sits on her nest shifting back and forth trying to find just the right spot. The muffled sound from a woodpecker calls our attention to the other pond, we watch as he pecks away in a stand of dried out reeds. In the distance we notice several turtles perched on a log getting their daily dose of sunshine. The park is filled with a series of connecting ponds, each one a different shape and size, the next one seems to be the turtle’s favorite as they are atop logs all across the pond; my favorite is the big turtle with the little one resting on his back. A Hawk calls out overhead, we look up into the powder blue sky to catch a glimpse as he flies gracefully above, a black bird with orange stripes on his wings serenades us as we stroll, frogs trill with amazing volume as gun shots penetrate the air, oh, did I mention there’s a shooting range near by? Not the best planning….. We enter an open area, wooden bird houses are mounted on posts, there is a bevy of activity as tiny birds fly in and out of the entrances. The grass has turned green seemingly overnight, the heavy rains have made it soft and lush. We hike on a dirt path into the woods, signs of spring are everywhere; wild daisies have pushed through piles of dead leaves to greet us, tiny purple flowers are intermixed in areas of patchy grass. 

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We walk until we come to the wooden stairway that leads us down the long slope of a hill, a bridge carries us across yet another pond. As Kris looks into the water he calls me over, a huge turtle rests on the bottom perfectly still, he looks ancient. The trees are full of buds, within days they will burst into bloom, bright yellow dandelions dot the landscape.The river is high and moving swiftly downstream as sunlight dances on the surface. We pause at the shoreline, the water is clear, a large fish is just below the surface. We follow the well-worn path a bit longer stopping off and on to take in the wonder of nature. If we continue on we will end up at Yates Cider Mill, no time for that today. We retrace our steps and end up close to where we started on the main path. We go right instead of left, this is where the Heron Rookery is located. We walk carefully and quietly as we stare out at towering trees, ah ha, there they are! Nests are large, there is much activity taking place. some of the chicks have already hatched and it appears to be feeding time. Parents take turns guarding the nest and feeding the babies, we watch this intimate process through the camera lens as to get a closer look. In this one area we count at least 20 nests, we observe elegant egrets as they come in for a landing  a short distance from us. Photographers with tripods and zoom lenses are here to capture the beauty. The park is filled with wildlife from deer, fox and heron to muskrats, frogs and ducks; we’ve even seen ginormous beavers here. It’s a great place to get away and enjoy the sights and sounds of nature.

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Next we are heading to downtown Rochester for the Michigan Earth Day Fest. Celebrating earth-friendly habits from buying local and organic to wellness products and services, there’s something for everyone here. White tents are lined up in rows in an open area, aisle ways are crowded with pedestrians carrying cold cups of lemonade and bags of kettle corn. We meander through displays of beeswax candles carved into shapes of beehives, mushrooms and tiny animals. One booth is selling handbags, totes and notebooks made of vintage vinyl records, they’re super cool, one handy craftsperson constructs charming birdhouses and outdoor pieces from tree branches, I can’t help but stop and smell the handmade bars of soap! On my right I see three full-grown greyhounds, I make eye contact with one and cannot resist his plea to be petted. The dog is sweet and gentle and looking for a home, I try that same pleading look on Kris, but alas there will be no greyhound coming home with us today. Toward the back of the exhibits brave boys and girls don helmets and harnesses as they climb tall rock walls, they’re really good at it, the petting zoo is crowded with children longing to hold the baby goat or feed the baby camel. We indulge in free samples of granola, salsa and pickles, I think it’s time for lunch.

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We drive over to Walnut, one of our favorite restaurants, Smackwater Jack’s, has re-located from Lexington to Rochester, we have been anxious to visit the new place. The corner building is large, the interior, spacious and tastefully decorated. The menu board hangs above the register; we are happy to see the old familiar menu. We order a small New York pizza and a Greek Market Salad. Smackwater now sells local products from Cherry Republic, American Spoon and Leelanau Coffee, I check out the selection as we wait for our food. The pizza arrives showing off that famous braided crust that we love so much; crunchy outside, tender and chewy inside, it’s as good as we remembered! We grab ourselves a couple of iced coffee’s for the road, it has been a wonderful day filled with beautiful scenery and delicious food, what more could you ask for. UPDATE: Smackwater Jacks is now closed

Wyandotte

3 May

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Every once in a while the opportunity arises to see or do something out of the ordinary; such was the case on a lovely Saturday morning when we found ourselves in Wyandotte at the North American Model Engineering Society (NAMES) Expo. Modelers of all ages, from all over, gather to show off their amazing creations and promote the hobby of model engineering. Held at Yack Arena the expo fills 30,000 sq ft of space with miniature, functioning models of things like engines, trains, tractors, aircraft and boats; it’s something you have to see to believe!Tables with shiny metal objects near the arena entrance immediately grab our attention, on the left a crowd forms around a scale cylinder radial engine, the proud modeler answers one question after another, I don’t even know what it is and I’m impressed! Kris is extremely mechanical and understands the way things work, with me as his companion he will quickly grow tired of having to explain what everything is.

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We start down the first aisle, a sea of exhibitors display incredible, real working examples of  mechanical items scaled down to table-top size, lines of compressed air operate tiny steam engines creating a rhythmic popping sound. Trains are popular, there are several examples each done in a different scale, they are perfect down to the smallest detail. Men stand proudly behind their tables,  I have as much fun looking at the items as I do watching their creators talk with passing admirers. As we round a corner I spot a 1/4 scale Whizzer motor bike, further down a 1/5 scale bridgeport, the featured model this year is a V8 engine, complete with radiator and mini spark plugs. Many pieces are mounted on pretty wooden bases, often times engraved plates tell us what each item is. One modeler has made an entire old-fashioned machine shop complete with an arbor press, wood lathe and saw table, the exactness is mind-blowing.

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We see several different engines, some run on gasoline, all it takes is a little bit of revving to draw an audience. I recognize items like transmissions, cylinder heads and a super charger, each teeny tiny piece is a work of art. Every aisle has something amazing; a cannon, clock, guns and meticulous recreations of race cars and Chris Craft boats, these guys even make their own tools! Kris had his hands full taking pictures. Often times the builder would show us the way things work, truly fascinating stuff.

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When lunch time arrived we thought we’d check out downtown Wyandotte, we see  a restaurant  sign that says Sushi Bar Japanese Cuisine, we’re in. When we step inside I notice the attractive iridescent tile on the back wall, wind chimes hang lazily over the sushi bar. We are seated near the window and handed menus. After a quick scan we choose three sushi rolls, a salad and the age dashi tofu. Drinks and salad arrived quickly, good, we’re hungry. The lunch crowd thins out, the rest of our meal arrives. The tofu is excellent, a crisp sesame crust and tasty dipping sauce, one of the better ones we’ve had. The sushi was fresh and delicious.

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We walk over to Biddle, which is Wyandotte’s main street, drawn in by the appealing window display, we stop in at River’s Edge Gallery. The first floor is a combination art gallery, interior design studio and custom framing shop, as we wander through I recognize names of many Detroit artists. We ascend the stairs to the second floor, a new exhibit has just opened, the artist’s pieces are engaging, the space a delightful array of art. The gallery owner concentrates on the art of New Detroit, the city is becoming known as a hotbed for the creative community.

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I had ice cream on my mind, Wyandotte is lucky enough to have both a Sanders and a Stroh’s, since I can get Sanders locally Stroh’s was our destination. As we walk up the block Kris is intrigued by a charming 2-story building. Curious as to what the interior looks like he opens the door and proceeds in, just inside the foyer are a set of saloon-style swinging doors, we push through those and find ourselves inside an enchanting German pub known as R P McMurphy’s. This place is awesome! The brick building was built in the 1890’s, it started out as Schroeder’s Pub, Dr. Schroeder had his medical practice on the second floor. We take a seat at the gorgeous dark wood bar and strike up a conversation with Joe the bartender; he answers our questions as he prepares the absolute best Spanish Coffee I’ve ever had. One of the waitresses we talked to told us it used to be a joke that you could stop in at the pub for a ‘shot’ before you went upstairs to get your shot. As we sit we swivel in our chair to take in our surroundings, the tile floor is original as is most everything in the place. The most striking feature is the hand painted period mural that runs the full length of the far wall. The characters and scenes look like they are out of a story book during the days of Robin Hood, they have stood the test of time perfectly. Pewabic tile fills the space below the murals, we’re told that was added later, chandeliers look medieval, thick wood beams divide the ceiling, the place is like a time capsule. Can’t wait to come back for dinner.

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Wyandotte is home to a bevy of architectural styles, making it a great place to take a stroll. If you’re into the “Pop” style of the late 1960’s early 70’s be sure and poke your head into the Chelsea menswear store, also on Biddle. The building was renovated in 1970, outside the “Chelsea” lettering  and oblong cut-out for the window are fab, the Pop theme continues inside with the circle panels in the ceiling creating polka dots of light. Focusing in clothing made locally and in the USA, it’s also a great place for guys to shop! 

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With so much to offer and just a short ride from Detroit,we’ll be back in the summer for dinner, ice cream and a stroll along the river. Who knows what else we may discover.

DETROIT: 3rd Thursday

27 Apr

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As the art scene continues to grow at an astonishing rate in Detroit there is an increasing number of cool things to do most any night of the week. Tonight is the 3rd Thursday of the month, Art Detroit Now has  big plans for the evening; a combination of contemporary art, amazing artists and extraordinary venues; let’s go! We arrive at the Pioneer Building on East Grand Blvd, years ago we heard that it had been turned into studio spaces for artists, we’ve always wanted to check it out, tonight we finally get our chance. We park alongside the building, rain is coming down in buckets, we make a dash for the door. Inside, we grab a studio floorplan, we hear voices nearby and use them as a guide to find the first studio. Spaces come in all shapes and sizes, often larger studios are shared by two or more artists. The first one we enter is a small, cozy space, completed pieces dot the walls, the smell of paint thinner and oil paint hang heavy in the air, music plays quietly in the background. After we  look around we proceed back down the hall, pieces of art from studio tenants grace every wall, the work is fantastic. We meander in and out of first floor studios; styles range from striking to serene, colors cover the gamut from subtle to intense. We are greeted warmly by Joan Farago, for the last two years she’s had pieces in Art Prize in Grand Rapids; it’s wonderful to have an opportunity to talk about her art and Detroit’s continually expanding art scene.

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We climb the stairs to the second floor and then the third, the structure feels solid, indestructible in the way only old buildings do. The wood plank floor is quiet and easy on my feet, huge load bearing  beams are made of wood, remnants of its early history are still visible. Built in 1908 by the Trippensee brothers, the building was originally used to manufacture enclosed bodies for Buick and Ford. In the early 1920’s it was the home of Rickenbacker Motor Co. It spent most of its days as a manufacturing facility, in 1960 Pioneer Office Products took it over. In 1994 the building was purchased and renovated by the current owners who turned it into 29 distinct studio spaces complete with large windows and fantastic industrial views.

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We wander into studio # 303, Birgit Huttemann-Holz stands off to the side as we admire her work. A large table sits central in the space, on it are jars of what appears to be hardened wax, open containers of powdered pigment represent every color of the rainbow. She approaches us, I compliment her work.  She explains  that she does not use paint, that each piece is ‘painted’ with beeswax. Having never heard of this she sees she has piqued our interest and demonstrates the procedure, we are fascinated. She lights the blow-torch, yes, a blow torch, and completes the process, the beeswax gives the colors a luminescent look, as if you can peer right into them, absolutely stunning!

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We continue our journey through the Pioneer Building stopping into each open studio, hosts offer a variety of goodies; cookies, candy, even wine, we meet an array of interesting folks. The back wall of Jeanne Biere’s studio is lined with vintage black and white photos, as we draw closer we realize that they are not photos, but paintings of photos, each image is captured perfectly. Teresa Petersen  creates art from found objects, her collages use vintage items, they are whimsical and fun.   The building is generally not open to the public with the exception of 3rd Thursday. If you can’t make it down on a Thursday, write this down, on the first Saturday of October they host the annual Artist Open Studios, an open house of sorts complete with food and live music; you are welcome to come in, tour the building, meet the artists and purchase their work. It’s already on my calendar!

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Having spent way more time than expected at the Pioneer we can no longer ignore our hunger. Since there are more activities  going on in Eastern Market we head to Supino Pizza for a quick dinner. We place our order at the counter and have a seat at one of the smaller tables, I love the homey feel of the place; black and white checkered floors, community tables and quirky art formed from ordinary items. Kris sets our drinks on the table just as the house salad arrives, that was fast. We douse the tender greens in the house made lemon basil citronette, delicious. Our pizza arrives just as we finish off the salad, a tasty combination of pepperoni, mushrooms, green pepper and a kick of spice melded together by gooey mozzarella.

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We dodge the raindrops once again as we head down Russell Street to Germack Coffee, open until 10pm for the occasion, they have live music tonight.  The Chili Mexican is my favorite drink, but tonight I want something warm; I order a cappuccino, unfazed by the weather Kris asks for an iced coffee with a splash of  house made vanilla simple syrup. Steven whips up our drinks, we move to the back of the shop where the music is set to start. A trio by the name of The  Marble Fauns, begins to play; two guitars, two women and one man, their music would probably be described as folk, I would call it old-time folk. Voices blend beautifully in simple harmonies, the music, uncomplicated tunes are played effortlessly. The girls do most of the singing, after a little coaxing the guy agrees to do a number where his voice is showcased, he’s great! Drinking my coffee and listening to the music I feel like I could sit here for hours. I can’t wait for the next 3rd Thursday.