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ROADTRIP: Hocking Hills Ohio

30 Jul

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Today we are making our escape; we are trading in stop lights, strip malls and traffic for the peace and tranquility of nature, our destination, Hocking Hills. Located about an hour southeast of Columbus Ohio, we are taking the most direct route, there will be plenty of scenic roads to travel once we reach Hocking County. Just outside of Columbus we grab a quick lunch, we head south on 33, at the town of Rockbridge we make our right onto SR374, now the fun begins! Located in the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains, Hocking Hills includes 9000 acres of State Forest land. We will spend the next several hours on roads that twist and turn, rise and fall, we’ll view sandstone cliffs, hiking trails, recess caves, deep gorges and waterfalls, yes, this is Ohio.

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Our first stop is Cantwell Cliffs, this gigantic horseshoe cliff features a 150 ft sheer drop to the valley floor, centuries of erosion have created deep valley’s, steep cliffs and an incredible rock shelter. Here the sandstone varies in color from a pale terracotta to a dark reddish-brown, there are patches of turquoise and white. We hike the trail that leads us into the shelter itself, surfaces are damp and slippery. A system of pathways has been created throughout the area, steps are carved into the rock itself, at times man has had to intervene with concrete or wood. It is Friday, so there are few visitors, we have the area to ourselves, we relish the tranquility. We look around in awe, a photo cannot do justice to all that we see, but Kris will do his best to capture the beauty. We are back on SR374, the road snakes through picturesque countryside, we follow the signs to Rock House. Each feature includes its own parking lot, signs make it easy to travel from one destination to the next.

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 Situated midway up a 150 ft cliff of blackhand sandstone Rock House is the only true cave in the park. We begin our trek by descending a long rock stairway, the surrounding area lush and jungly, we encounter other hikers, this is a popular site. We watch the others and follow their lead to the entrance of the cave; hollowed out by water, the main corridor is 200 ft long, some points are 20 to 30 ft wide. It is a difficult contrast at first, going from bright sunshine to near darkness, I hear a bat fly overhead, doves are roosting nearby. As our eyes adjust we are able to explore the area freely, it is amazing! The floor is worn smooth, probably from centuries of  human feet crossing the surface, walls are multi-hued and rough with cubby hole like spaces. I turn my back against the wall and look out what resembles a Gothic arched window, there are actually 7 of them separated by great sandstone columns. Kris follows the length of the corridor to a rock that juts out from the cave, he stands near the edge taking in the view; the ground below is dense with trees and vegetation, the sky a perfect powder blue.

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We zig and zag on SR374 until we reach Conkle’s Hollow, we follow the trail through this rugged rocky gorge said to be one of the deepest in Ohio. Everything here is so green! The valley floor is rich with Hemlock and Birch, ferns are prolific, I almost feel as if I have stumbled into some prehistoric land. The ravine is a half mile long, vertical cliffs rise skyward, it is tranquil and peaceful. There is a true sense of wilderness throughout the Hocking Hills area, we meander the roads rarely seeing another car, stop signs are few and far between. We arrive at Old Man’s Cave, probably the most popular attraction, a number of cars fill the parking lot. We amble along the trail, rocks play host to patches of moss in a variety of shades, tree roots hug layers of blackhand sandstone. Water cascades gently over worn stone to a swirling pool below, small concrete platforms look as if they are floating and act as steps to a bridge. We follow trails and overpasses straddling the creek, bridges span three levels of falls. Areas of rock appear as if they have been submerged for centuries, holes are worn through; formations remind me of underwater castles. We ascend the stairway to the cave itself, a wall made of individual rocks hugs the right side of the stairs; the site is popular for picture-taking. The trail leads us up, down and all around, when we come to the end we decide to find a place to have dinner.

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Here and there we have passed old-fashioned general stores, camp grounds and tiny villages. We are driving in the direction of the next attraction when we see a quaint little store, folks linger on the front porch drinking cold bottles of water, our thirst beckons us to stop. I wait in the car as Kris runs in for water, we are parked facing what appears to be a tiny log cabin, to the left of the screen door a sign simply reads “restaurant”. Kris returns with 2 bottles of ice-cold water and asks if I’m hungry, a question that rarely needs to be asked; the cashier recommended he check out the adjacent restaurant, so he does. When he returns to the car he says “we’re eating here”, so I grab my purse and follow him inside. This is the restaurant at the Inn at Cedar Falls, housed in two log cabins built in the 1840’s  words like quaint, charming and rustic come to mind, I mean, the place is fantastic! In a million years I never would have expected to find such a place out in the middle of nowhere. We arrive at the perfect time, there is a table available out on the patio, luck is definitely on our side. We have a seat under a large green umbrella, gardens behind us, the cabin to the front, whimsical planters are made from repurposed antiques. Mind you it is a hot June day, we left Detroit this morning and have been roaming through the wilds for the last several hours, we have to be quite a sight! Surrounding patrons are well dressed, their hair is combed, I am doubtful their shoes are caked with mud as ours are, still we greeted warmly by our waitress, nobody seems to mind that we are disheveled. We order quickly, we are famished.

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As we wait for our dinner we take a look inside the restaurant; the walls are the original log and concrete; knotty pine ceilings, hardwood floors make the tiny spaces cozy. Plaid upholstery covers dining room chairs, photos of Hocking Hills in all four seasons adorn the walls, the food smells delicious. We are sharing the house salad of the day and the smoked mozzarella, red pepper ravioli, both are absolutely wonderful. We finish our meal in record time, though we would love to linger, we have more to see before it gets dark. 

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Our next stop is Cedar Falls, this is the greatest volume waterfall in Hocking Hills and is reached by traversing 100 steps to the bottom of the gorge. We reach the bottom, delighting in the sheer rush of water as Queer Creek gushes over the blackhand sandstone, Hemlocks are plentiful. Visitors wade through the shallow water to a sandbar, getting a closer look at the falls. Ash Cave awaits us, up the stairs we go……

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I read that Ash Cave is the largest recess cave in the state of Ohio, measuring 700 ft end to end and 100 ft deep from the rear cave wall to the front edge, that’s pretty impressive. We ramble along the paved path (worth noting, the path to Ash Cave is wheelchair accessible), narrow, steep gorge walls on each side of us. We follow along, rounding a bend the space opens up, a tributary of Queer Creek spills over the rim of the cave to a pool below, the sound soft and soothing. Hemlock and Beech trees are rampant, they are tall and spindly. The cave is horseshoe-shaped, allowing tourists to duck behind the waterfall, there is no shortage of photo ops here. Dusk begins to fall just as we finish exploring, we are exhausted!

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We take the quickest route to Columbus, we are staying at the Short North Bed and Breakfast. When we arrive we are greeted by Trelene, she shows us to our room and asks us what time we’d like breakfast. After we are situated we head back downstairs for a nice glass of wine to unwind from our active day. Time to get some sleep, we have a lot to do tomorrow!

DETROIT: Things are Popping-Up all over….

10 Jul

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There’s a new way of doing business in Detroit. First take an old building that has been vacant for years, maybe even decades, add a group of budding entrepreneurs, a team of volunteer architects, mix well and place in a neighborhood hungry for economic revitalization, the result; a series of Pop-Up (temporary) retail spaces in the Jefferson East Business District  (JEBA)  affectionately nicknamed  Jeff Chalmers.  We have driven down this strip of Jefferson near the Grosse Pointe border for years, it is attractive and has remained intact. Today as we park our car we see that it is lively; there are sandwich boards on the sidewalk, an outdoor cafe, people milling about. First we head into Coffee and (______), we are instantly charmed by the space; furniture is made from wooden pallets, a bicycle rim ads whimsy and light, paintings by local artists decorate the walls, bright-colored cushions and a turquoise wall make it feel light and summer-y. Pastry chef Angela is behind the counter pulling espresso shots and describing today’s baked goods (the “and”) to a customer. As the word brownie reaches my eardrum I know exactly what I’m going to order. Angela did a stint back in the fall in West Village, her “Coffee and” shop was well received in the neighborhood, we are glad to see her at it again. Taking a seat at the counter we anxiously take a bite of the brownie; the edge is chewy, the center soft and gooey, a piece of chocolate heaven. As we sip our iced coffee a steady stream of patrons come and go, many seem to know each other, all are excited at the prospect of a neighborhood coffee shop. We are greeted by a man named Ritchie, he’s the economic development director at JEBA, he tells us a bit about the Pop-ups and the area, his enthusiasm is contagious.

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Myra’s Sweet Tooth occupies the space next door, a table displays delicious looking cookies and cupcakes, there’s a line at the ice cream counter. We cut through the back to the River’s Edge Gallery, it is very well done and looks as if it has always been here. Each of the 5 storefronts were given a team of volunteer designers from the Detroit chapter of the American Institute of Architects, they were given two months and a limited budget (I heard $2,000 each) to create a custom space for each pop-up client; what they accomplished is an amazing, eye-appealing cohesive district. We cross Jefferson, D:hive has opened a storefront; the large front window is home to wood furniture painted red, white and blue, a street map of Detroit covers one wall.  Inside, Sister Pie and Sweet Potato Sensations are selling  their signature baked goods. A large area is dedicated to Detroit itself; neon colored sheets of paper are filled with lists of restaurants, bars and activities, trying to connect people to the surrounding environment. Goodwells Organic Market has opened a temporary space too; the decor is a definite home run! Wooden barrels are filled with fresh fruit, discarded window frames are mounted on the wall and used as shelves, a bright yellow door hangs horizontally over a table; clear canning jars are implemented as light fixtures, the shop looks fresh and bright.  The young man behind the counter whips us up an awesome fruit smoothie. The district seems to be an instant success. (Pop-ups will be on Jefferson through July 6th, Coffee and (___) until July 27)

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Have you heard there’s a beach in downtown Detroit? Seriously! From now until the end of September Campus Martius Park  is home to tons of white sand, beach chairs and a Beach Bar and Grill serving Frankenmuth beer and cocktails. Guess where we’re having lunch? We place our order at the bar, the food portion is run by the folks at Fountain Bistro, we choose a table on the wooden deck that gives us a nice beach view. The area is fabulous; surrounded by skyscrapers, the fountain on one end, Soldiers and Sailors monument on the other, there’s nothing else like it. Tables in lime green, orange and turquoise are set up on the deck, area workers relax in beach chairs, shoes off, feet pushed into the soft sand. Small children play with pails and shovels, delighted at the feel of the grains in their fingers. Before we know it our lunch arrives; the Traverse City salad is outstanding with the homemade strawberry vinaigrette, the chicken pesto sandwich is large and flavorful. When we have polished off the food and fresh squeezed lemonade we cross over to Cadillac Square.

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From now until August 23 Cadillac Square is hosting a summer time market. Monday through Friday from 10 am until 2 pm food vendors are set up in bright green mock storefronts. In addition to the food, visitors are treated to live music each day with Lunchtime Acoustics. It just so happens that today is the 4th Friday of the month, which means “The Market” is in full swing. This area is reserved for artists, designers, vintage dealers, apparel, home goods and craft foods by independent retailers. We wander from booth to booth; wallpaper, t-shirts, preserves and jewelry, all top quality products. In the background a duo play guitars and sing in Latin American style, it is a lovely afternoon. You have two more chances to visit the market: July 26 & 27 and August 23 & 24, open 11a-9p Friday, 11a-7p Saturday…….don’t miss it!

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Did I mention that today is National Skateboard Day? We had noticed groups of skateboarders making their way through the city all day long, then someone mentioned they were gathering near the old Brewster projects. Let’s see what they can do! We park along the side of the road near the 375 service drive, the long forgotten Brewster buildings stand windowless and empty, mother nature has reclaimed the surrounding land, abandoned tennis courts have been transformed into a make-shift skills course for skateboards. Dozens of young men take turns jumping piles of bricks, some slide across yellow railings, others maneuver their boards along concrete benches, it is easy to single out the best skaters.

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We watch for a bit then head over to Hamtramck’s urban skate park. Just off the Davison is Detroit’s first (and only) permanent skate park; this is the kind with the cool bowl shape where skaters ride up along the top of the wall. A small group of talented skaters ride down graffiti covered concrete ramps and walls, each seems to have a signature trick. They have come from downriver, Saginaw and Ann Arbor to participate in the days activities. It has been a full day, we have covered many areas of the city, and yet there is so much more……… 

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Saginaw

29 Jun

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After a peaceful nights sleep at the Webster House the car is loaded and we are on our way, a quick stop at Populace for coffee and we are headed to Saginaw. At one time Saginaw was a thriving lumber town, the nearby forests were thick with White Pine, the proximity to the river made it easy to float  logs down to the sawmills, they were then loaded onto ships and later railroad cars and sent all over the country. As lumber production began to disappear a new industry had taken hold of the area, manufacturing. Most of us are unaware at what a manufacturing hub Saginaw was, at one point the city and township were home to 12 General Motors plants and an Eaton manufacturing plant; not to mention the production of chemicals, plate glass and metal fabrication. Saginaw’s contribution to the Allies eventual victory was significant; facilities here produced over half a million M1 Carbine rifles for the US military along with gun parts, tank treads and ball screws for the Boeing B-29’s, thanks to our manufacturing base we could build it all! Through the years plants were bought and sold, many closed down, only a few continue to operate today. Saginaw struggles with the same issues so many of our once great manufacturing cities do. A trip down Jefferson Ave gives one a glimpse of Saginaw’s magnificent architecture.

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We begin our visit with a trip to the Marshall M Fredericks Sculpture Museum on the campus of Saginaw Valley State University, I bet you even know some of his work. Spirit of Detroit statue? Yep, that’s his, Christ On The Cross out in Indian River MI, that too, how about the Leaping Gazelle, aka the Levi L Barbour Memorial Fountain on Belle Isle? Uh huh, as a matter of fact, that was his very first commission. Fredericks grew up in Cleveland, graduated from the Cleveland School of Art in 1930, he traveled to Sweden to study under another great sculptor, Carl Milles (who had previously studied under Rodin in Paris). After Fredericks spent some time in Europe, he was invited by Milles to join him on staff at the Cranbrook Academy of Art in Bloomfield Hills, which he did, Fredericks resided in Birmingham MI until his death in 1998.

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We arrive at the museum, Fredericks  sculptures are scattered about the landscape, Kris recognizes the Lion and the Mouse from his childhood days at Eastland Mall. Inside, a large space is tightly filled with plaster castings for Fredericks pieces, we are familiar with many of them. Starting at one side we take our time traversing the aisles; there are a couple of castings  for The Spirit Of Detroit in different sizes, it was not unusual for Fredericks to make smaller versions of sculptures as sort of practice pieces. A down-sized version of Christ on the Cross hangs on the marble wall, the Leaping Gazelle was one of his most reproduced pieces, it is lovely even in plaster. A row of elongated figures balance on round bases, they must belong to a fountain. The left wall is windows top to bottom overlooking a pretty green space, water splashes from one of Fredericks fountains. Figures are often reaching upwards towards a higher power, animals always look friendly, we recognize the Cleveland War Memorial Fountain. The next room over is a reproduction of Fredericks sculpture studio, everything in there; tools, equipment, armatures, came from his studios in Royal Oak and Birmingham. All the steps are laid out from sketch to casting, we watch a video showing the process, it really is amazing. The gallery displays 200 works of bronze and plaster molds that span Marshall Fredericks career, we both love his work! As we depart the museum we see the Night and Day Fountain, the same one sits outside the McMorran auditorium in Port Huron, we check out the remaining outdoor sculpture and then we are off to downtown Saginaw.

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As I mentioned earlier, Saginaw has some incredible architecture, one such building is the Castle Museum. Designed by William Martin Aiken it was built in 1898 as a United States Post Office, which means, no expense was spared. Completed in the French Renaissance Revival style, this place is stunning. Saginaw’s population continued to grow, in 1937 the building was enlarged, thirty years later the building was threatened with demolition, fortunately it was transferred to the County of Saginaw and became the Castle Museum of Saginaw County History. Covering all aspects of local history they have over 100,000 objects and artifacts related to the heritage of the area, they did a fantastic job making the museum interesting to everyone, not just locals. The interior space is perfect for a museum; wide hallways, large rooms, lots of windows, the structure itself is just as interesting as the exhibits. Automobiles from different eras are displayed in the main hallway, we see architectural pieces from old buildings, photos showing the interior when it was a post office hang on the walls. We climb the circular stairway to the top floor a gold medallion decorates the center of the ceiling. Exhibits take us from the early days when Indians roamed the land to the time of lumbering, noting that in 1880 Saginaw Valley was home to 80 sawmills. My favorite section is the re-creation of Saginaw in its prime; a vegetable truck sits near the City Market, you can pretend you are taking a ride on a street car downtown. When Myer Bros. Jewelers closed in 1974 the museum obtained all of the interior counters, cabinets and mirrors, I actually feel like I am in the store, it’s beautiful! Other local shops are represented as well including Morely Bros. Hardware.

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 Back in the days when the building was a post office people actually paid their bills by sending cash in the mail….In one area we see the old safe, signs direct us up a narrow stairway, leading to an even narrower hall, from here we see tiny elongated windows that were used to ‘spy’ on employees as they were processing the mail, the government wanted to make sure all that cash got to its intended destination. The lower level is home to a large “HO” Scale operating railroad with more than 1000 feet of track, two freight-yards and realistic vintage scenery. Maintained and operated by the Saginaw Area Module Modelers it’s really cool. We walk the perimeter of the large display, there is so much to take in, trains are running in several different directions, volunteers are happy to explain all that we are seeing. Throughout the museum we see much of Saginaw’s history from furniture, photos and clothing to vehicles, toys and household goods, it has been an enjoyable visit.

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As we exit the museum our gaze falls upon another gorgeous building right behind it, this would be the Hoyt Public Library. Although Jesse Hoyt was never a permanent resident of Saginaw he and his family owned a substantial portion of the city and were involved financially in lumber, railroads, salt and buildings. Always concerned for the welfare of the community, he willed the city $100,000 for the establishment of a public library to be built on a parcel of land owned by him. The library was to be for consultation and reference only and to always bear the name Hoyt Public Library, completed in Romanesque design the library opened in 1890. We were so happy when we pulled on the door and it opened, we step inside and pause to look around, it is quite lovely. Kris begins to take photos as I wander about. A couple of employees engage us in conversation, we tell them we are fond of old buildings, they smile and tell us to have a look around. One man acts as our guide and takes us from room to room, I’m always excited when the big key ring comes out and we get to see spaces not generally open to the public. There is lots of wood and ornate plaster, a fireplace takes center stage in one of the small rooms. Completely renovated in 1997, new lighting was hung, old wooden shelves were replaced and computers were installed all the while maintaining the original Victorian motif. If you’re ever in town be sure to stop in and have a look around.

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It is late afternoon and we have yet to have lunch, we are starving! We take a drive through downtown but have no luck finding anything open on a Saturday. We cross the river  and scan the area for somewhere to eat; in no time we find ourselves at the Old Town Drive-In. This charming old-fashioned car-hop restaurant has been serving up their homemade draft rootbeer, rootbeer floats and coney dogs since 1940. The outdoor spaces are filled, so we decide to eat inside, a row of swivel bar stools line the counter, we have a seat and quickly decide what to order. Before we know it our food arrives; a coney dog, a cheeseburger and fries. We always like to try out the coney dogs at these cute family owned drive-ins, each has its own distinct coney sauce. Everything is good, we polish off the meal quickly.

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We make one last stop in town at the Saginaw Art Museum on Michigan Ave. The museum is housed in the former Ring family residence, built in the early 1900’s in the Georgian Revival style, the family donated the home to the city. There is a buzz of activity when we arrive, a wedding is about to take place in the formal gardens. Inside we are slightly disappointed to find artwork removed and areas closed off, but the place is wonderful all the same. My favorite space is the former dining room, rich Butternut paneling adorns the walls giving the room a cozy feel. We proceed through the galleries, the collection contains about 1700 pieces, American and European art being the majority of the collection. There is a nice variety on display today; paintings, sculptures, textiles and African art. One area of the modern and contemporary is filled with folding chairs this afternoon, ah, the wedding. The museum is currently closed for renovations and will re-open in the Fall, we look forward to a return visit when we will be able to see it in its entirety. We have thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Bay City and Saginaw, there was so much more than we expected to find.

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Bay City: Part II

23 Jun

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On our way to the bed and breakfast, we take a detour along the Saginaw River in search of the permanent mooring site of the USS Edson. I read that the destroyer had arrived in Bay City and was to open as the Saginaw Valley Naval Ship Museum in May. We continue to follow the river, just as we are about to give up, the enormous ship comes into view; at an overall length of 418 ft, it is quite a sight. A trailer sits off to the side, it’s early evening, we hope there’s still time to get a tour. Inside we are greeted warmly by volunteers, told we can start our tour immediately, we pay the admission and we are off. As we approach the destroyer I am taken aback by its size, our guide  is knowledgeable and friendly, he rattles off facts and figures effortlessly, here are a few; the USS Edson  is a Forrest Sherman-Class destroyer, 45 ft beam, 22 ft draught, 418 ft overall length. Commissioned in 1958, earned a reputation as a Top Gun ship, nicknamed “The Destroyer” and “The Grey Ghost of the Vietnamese Coast” as a member of the US Pacific Fleet, decommissioned in 1988.

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We go inside the ship, everything is painted the same shade of grey, hallways are narrow, the low ceiling is thick with wiring. We peek inside a series of different rooms, in some, walls are covered in nautical charts, in others bunks hang from chains and are stacked three high, officers had it better, one bed and their own bathroom. Everywhere I look I see switches, dials, gauges and knobs. As we walk our guide tells us stories about the Edson and the men who temporarily called the ship home. They had everything they needed; a barbershop, doctor, dentist, they could buy a candy bar and mail letters. We enter the galley area, there are maybe a dozen booths where the men would take their meals, with a crew of 17 officers and 218 men, they had to eat in shifts. We go down to the engine room where the 70,000 horsepower Worthington steam turbines are located, these monsters are capable of powering this massive ship to nearly 50 miles per hour, Wow, can’t imagine how loud it must have been down there, not to mention the heat. The pilot house is huge, we peer out the windshield at the Saginaw River, passing boats blow their horns and passengers wave as they pass. The Saginaw valley was home to many shipyards, the former Defoe Shipbuilding Company built many ships for the US Navy, making Bay City a perfect home for the USS Edson.

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We make our way back downtown to Populace Cafe on Washington Ave, time for a coffee break. Opened in 2012 the original owner ran the cafe, the wholesale business and most importantly roasted all the coffee. Though he still owns and runs Populace Coffee Company he sold the cafe to his barista, Lindsay, and the place is thriving. The decor is an eclectic mix of vintage and modern, chalkboard menus hang on the wall in pretty vintage frames. They have the usual espresso and coffee drinks you’d expect to find, but what really sets the shop apart are Lindsay’s homemade syrups; vanilla, dark chocolate and 3, yes I said 3, kinds of caramel! Kris had an iced coffee with the vanilla and loved it, unable to decide between the dark chocolate and the salty caramel, she made me a latte with both, yum! They also have a nice selection of teas and some tasty looking baked goods. Heck, we’d come to Bay City just for the coffee!

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At last we arrive at the Historic Webster House where we will be spending the night; built by Judge Thomas Webster in 1886 the 4,750 sq. ft. home is a lovely example of Queen Anne architecture. We are immediately greeted by innkeepers Frank and Gail, we walk through to the breakfast room where Frank points out a batch of freshly baked peanut butter chocolate chip cookies. The home is gorgeous; stained glass windows, polished hardwood floors, ornately carved wood trim and moldings, it is completely furnished in Victorian period pieces. Gail leads us to the stairway, she pauses at a table holding a platter of cheese and crackers, I catch the fragrance of red wine before I see the decanter and matching glasses, I love this place already! We ascend the steps up to the second floor where a guest refrigerator is stocked with soft drinks and more wine, Gail takes us into our room, it is splendid. The room is distinctly shaped, one wall is a series of large windows; a small table and two chairs are placed against a window. The bed is higher than a standard bed, the blanket is fluffed, it looks extremely comfortable. We have a fireplace and a small flat screen TV, the bathroom is roomy, I wish we were staying all weekend…… We help ourselves to a glass of wine, unpack a few things and get ourselves situated. If you’re looking for some luxe accommodations in Bay City, give this place a try!

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The Webster House is located in the Center Avenue Historic District, in 2011 the district was expanded to include 875 structures in a variety of styles from Gothic Revival and Italianate to Richardson Romanesque and Arts and Crafts. As we walk we pass grand manor homes, keep in mind this neighborhood was where industrialists, lumbermen and ship builders dwelled.  It is a perfect evening; water splashes in concrete fountains, Irises are blooming, lilacs perfume the air. The grass is deep green and lush, long walks lead to front porches bearing cement lions or gargoyles. Huge urns filled with annuals add a splash of color, ivy climbs the fireplace of a stately Tudor. There are also a number of “kit homes”, the Alladin and Lewis & Liberty Companies pioneered the manufacture of kit homes right here in Bay City. We arrive at a quaint little park; in a pond, water streams up from a whale and a dolphin, they look as though they have been entertaining children for decades. We take Center Street back to the bed and breakfast, have to freshen up for dinner.

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Everybody we talk to in Bay City tells us to have dinner at Old City Hall; as you may have guessed the building, opened in the late 1890’s was the city’s first city hall. Back in the logging days this area was known as “Hell’s Half Mile” for all of the rough activities that took place in the local saloons and brothels that stretched this section of road, eventually it forced the relocation on city hall. Today the restaurant looks like something you’d find in Birmingham or Ferndale, exposed brick walls, funky light fixtures made from empty wine and liquor bottles and a diverse menu. We begin our meal with the Thai lettuce wraps, a tasty blend of chicken, cashews and veggies smothered in a mild Thai sauce spooned into crisp romaine lettuce leaves, delicious. Our entrée of shrimp pad Thai arrived in a large bowl and smelled wonderful. A combination of shrimp, tofu, bean sprouts, egg and crushed peanuts the sauce was sweet and spicy, scrumptious.

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After dinner we walk down to the water front, the temperature has dropped quickly, we can see our breath when we speak, ah, Michigan in May! Lights across the river reflect on the still waters, pretty, a large white sculpture lights up Wenonah Park, the Delta College Planetarium looks super cool at night. The cold night air sends us back to the bar at Old City Hall; with 150 wines from around the globe and 23 beers on tap there is much to choose from. We sip our drinks and relax, it has been a fun and busy day.

Bay City: Part I

16 Jun

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We decided to get away for the holiday weekend, didn’t want to go somewhere that would be overly crowded, but still needed interesting things to do, good food, maybe even a water view…… let’s go to Bay City! If you haven’t been in a while (or ever) I think you will be pleasantly surprised at all this city on the Saginaw River has to offer. In the early days Bay City established itself as a major player in lumbering, milling and later ship building; destroyer escorts, guided missile destroyers and patrol craft all were built here for the Navy. These industries provided great wealth to area residents, but as we know, much of the great industry that once thrived in Michigan is now gone. I am pleased to say that Bay City appears to be on the upswing, recreating itself as an antique mecca and tourist destination; cute shops, nice restaurants, and 4 coffee houses, all downtown! Did I mention Madonna was born here?

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We began our visit at the Bay City Antiques Center on Water Street, it is said to be Michigan’s largest antique center, I don’t doubt it for a second. It is so massive I don’t even know how to begin to describe it; picture this: take every kind of antique you’ve ever seen, imagine a humongous building, put everything in there, shake the building up and down a few times, and there you have it. Whatever it is you’re looking for, it’s here, somewhere! We begin our adventure at the far end, this section is spread out over three levels, the basement contains old street signs, architectural salvage, record albums, vintage clothing, books and so much more. There is no rhyme or reason as to the way items are grouped and displayed; you have to look at everything. On the main floor a pot rack hangs from the ceiling, beautiful antique copper pieces hang aloof, old urns are spilling over with annuals in full bloom and a counter top holds box after box of antique postcards.

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We are told that this particular building was once an old department store, the third floor still retains the original ceiling fixtures. Tall cabinets with locked doors contain more expensive items; silver plate, old cameras, accordions and rare nautical pieces, there is so much to look at! We spend at least an hour and a half walking through the antique center, a “Good Vibes” drum set makes us smile with its cartoon humans decked out in bell bottoms and platform shoes. Glassware ranges from depression glass with fine patterns and pale colors to avocado green tumblers from the 70’s, cool stereo consoles share space with beer signs, automotive memorabilia, and sheet music. Salvaged doors lean against one another touching a wall, we see at least three different pianos along with pretty antique china place settings. Furniture runs the gamut from Art Deco to Colonial, Victorian to Mod, there’s a telephone booth, an awesome wood cabinet that opens up into a full bar and an Apollo 13 carafe complete with matching glasses. You want toys? How about a really old pinball machine, an A&P semi truck, baby dolls and games. Need a Speed Buggy lunch box, soda fountain, sewing machine or juke box? We spied a dining room set we still think we may have to have…….Further down Water Street, the window display at Americana Co. Antique Mall stops us in our tracks; a Mid-Century paradise of blonde furniture, quirky lamps, funky chairs and a cool TV. Here we go again….. 

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After all that visual stimulation we needed a snack, lucky for us the St. Laurent Brothers factory outlet is right across the street. Opened in 1904 the St Laurent brothers started out roasting peanuts for making natural peanut butter. Through the years demand increased to roast more kinds of nuts, today you can buy a variety from Almonds to Cashews to Macadamias. The inside still looks like an old-fashioned candy store; in addition to roasted nuts you can purchase hand-made chocolates in milk, dark and white, candied fruit, saltwater taffy, multi-colored suckers and other goodies. Feeling energized from our sugar buzz, we continue to explore Water Street. We wander in and out of little shops, I’d say most cater to antique lovers and women away for a girlfriends weekend, lots of attractive things for the home and garden. We see a coffee shop and head inside…….WOW! Beatles and Beans Coffee Emporium is a top to bottom, side to side and all the way around Beatles themed coffee shop, you have to see it to believe it. If it has the face of Paul, Ringo, John or George it’s here; photos, record albums, figurines, posters, books, trinkets, lunch boxes, British flags, even TV Guide covers. Beatles music plays in the background, retro style furniture provides patrons with a place to sit and enjoy a coffee, smoothie or sandwich. The ceiling is covered in old 45’s from multiple artists, the collection is impressive. If you are a Beatles fan, put this shop on your list of places to visit! We make a quick stop at Studio 23 The Arts Center and take a peek at the watercolor exhibit on display, the work is marvelous. The Art Center provides everything from wonderful exhibits, exhibit space and educational opportunities to the community of Great Lakes Bay Area.

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We can deny our hunger no longer, we walk further down Water St to Stein Haus for lunch. Resembling an old German pub, the place is amazing! The wood plank ceiling is painted red, beer steins hang from hooks as far as the eye can see, above the bar a fancy tin ceiling gleams in gold, old German beer signs hang on the wall, multiple cabinets are filled with antique beer steins painted with elaborate signs, drinkware and old bottles are also displayed, it’s quite a sight. Seated at a table we glance over the menu, German food is a must, as we wait for our meal to arrive we walk around a little checking out the amazing collection of steins. The food arrives quickly; the fruit and cheese plate is an assortment of sliced cheese, a dollop of goat cheese, fresh fruit and a variety of crackers, it’s all good. The Stein Haus Schnitzel is a lightly breaded pork cutlet sautéed in butter, it’s tender and tasty. Served with hot German potato salad and sweet and sour Red cabbage, it makes a great combination. We make quick work of eating and are back outside in no time.

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A short walk away on Washington stands the State Theatre, built in 1908, it started life as the Bijou and was host to both Vaudeville acts and burlesque. In 1930 the building was renovated, they called on C Howard Crane to do the job. If you’ve ever been to the Fox Theatre in Detroit you have seen Crane’s work. The exterior of the building is brick with intermittent Mayan symbols, a vertical sign spelling out STATE rises from the marquis. The box office is located in the lobby, a young woman named Ashley greets us and asks if we need assistance. We explain we are in from Detroit and love old theatres, we wondered if we might have a look around. Of course, she says, and proceeds to turn on all the theatre lights, seriously.  The theatre has recently undergone a $4 million dollar renovation, it’s stunning! The auditorium is made to look like a Mayan Temple, golden walls are highly textured and resemble individual bricks, the grand curtain is currently closed, areas surrounding the stage are colorful and highly detailed. Matching cut-outs on side walls are striking and glow in red, tiles featuring faces and symbols are scattered in the walls, the colors are warm shades of terra cotta, olive green, chocolate brown and a medium blue, opulent sconces direct light up and down. The ceiling is spectacular; divided into three sections and divided by a large molding, the middle section is covered in hieroglyphics, while the other two are a lovely sky blue. We take the stairs to the balcony for an overall view, the hallway has sort of an angular barrel ceiling, photographs of performers hang on the walls. There are more decorative symbols up here, but further apart, details are everywhere. We enter the balcony area, it is a breath-taking sight, we have the entire 552 seat theatre to ourselves, how cool is that? Back downstairs we talk with Ashley a little more, she tells us a little about the restoration; the current carpet is a duplicate of the original, reconstructed from a scrap found in the building, at one time the auditorium had all been painted over in white, you have to wonder who thought that was a good idea….we thank her for her time. The day has passed quickly, it’s time to check into our Bed & Breakfast, the night is still young……

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Hamtramck: Saint Florian Strawberry Festival

4 Jun

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There are certain things you can count on in life: Spring follows Winter, night follows day, cake on your birthday, fireworks on the 4th of July and the St Florian Strawberry Festival every May. This year we met up with a couple of our friends who had not yet been to the church or the festival. The four of us packed ourselves into our 2-door Wrangler, we arrive at St Florian, surrounding streets have been declared Strawberry Festival Blvd for the weekend. The imposing brick and stone building can’t help but attract your attention with its handsome wood doors, stained glass windows, finely carved stone a spire that rises 200 feet into the sky. People and activity are everywhere; from a large tent we hear music as Polish dance ensembles perform traditional dances, the air carries the distinct aroma of Polish food. There is a buffet of items such as perogi and meatball dinners, Polish beer and chrusciki (angel wings). Next we head to social hall where the festivities continue.

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The party continues downstairs, the space reminds me of the days when big family gatherings were held in basements. Fold-out paper strawberries hang from the drop ceiling, round tables are covered in pastel colored cloths, a large bar hugs one side of the wall, and then there’s the food! Volunteers have spent countless hours preparing city chicken and stuffed cabbage, Polish Village supplies the sauerkraut, Kielbasa comes from Bozek, New Palace Bakery makes the cheesecake, cookies and everybody’s favorite, paczki; it is a true neighborhood affair. At a nearby table parishoners are hard at work pouring homemade batter into a waffle iron, I gaze dreamily as the baked waffle is topped with fresh strawberries in their own syrup, a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a dollop of fresh whipped cream, I immediately take my place in line. Each of us gets something different; we take a seat at one of the tables and dig in. The warmth of the waffle melts the ice cream ever so slightly, Kris and I take large bites being sure to get a bit of everything on the fork; strawberries are sweet, the waffle tender, simple and delicious! The Dyna Dukes are onstage, they begin to play a polka, suddenly the dance floor is crowded with couples wearing smiles of delight. Upstairs, tours of the church are being offered, we make our way there and wait for it to begin.

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I love to see the look on people’s faces when they enter the church for the first time; a mixture of wonder and amazement. Designed by Ralph Adams Cram in the Gothic style, the church opened in 1928. It is visually stunning; the nave is made up of six bays topped with a rib vault ceiling painted a deep blue, ribs are accentuated with gold paint. The main aisle is flanked by 2 smaller aisles, stained glass windows made by Kase Company in New York line the walls. The altar is magnificent; a series of five windows depict polish saints, the altar piece a work of art from Florence Italy. The organ loft is illuminated by a large, jewel-like, rose stained glass window, the organ itself, a 1928 Austin Electric Opus # 1528, completely renovated in 2008. Walls look like stone, stenciled designs decorate every surface, light fixtures dangle from long chains, large round ones are made of wood, smaller elongated fixtures are glass, all are exceptional. We walk around in awe, Kris, busy as usual, taking photos until the tour begins.

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We take our seats in the first few rows of pews, a local man, knowledgeable in the history of both St Florian and Hamtramck will be our guide. He tells us about the early days, about 1901, when Hamtramck was still a village filled with farms. Soon afterward automobile manufacturers began setting up shop; Dodge, Packard and Ford. Eastern European immigrants began to settle in the area, there were many jobs to fill. In 1910 the population in Hamtramck was 3559, in 1920 it was 48,615 and in 1930 it rose to 56,000 people; imagine it, all those people living in a city of only 2 square miles! St Florian parish began in 1908, before long they had outgrown their church, with a plan for a new building, working class parishoners sacrificed what they could to build the new church at a cost of $500,000.00 The current building opened in 1928, American Architecture Magazine named it the best new church in America in 1929. They say at one time there were 23 factories and 43 grocery stores in Hamtramck, then as now there was no shortage of bars. At one time Dodge Main employed 45,000 people, sadly the factory closed in 1979. The good news is GM built a new factory on the land where they proudly build the Chevrolet Impala and Volt. Today’s Hamtramck is a mix of people from Eastern Europe to the Middle East, there are Mosks, and churches of Catholic, Baptist and Evangelical faiths. St Florian still offers mass in both Polish and English and looks as good as ever.

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Coming from St Florian and being in Poletown we have lunch exactly where you’d expect….a Bosnian restaurant! Located on Caniff across the street from the post office Restaurant Palma is located inside what looks to be a family home. The inside is quaint; a stained wood wainscoting lines the walls, tiny white lights shine from behind it. Tables are round and covered with linen table cloths, a single rose decorates each table, walls are pale green and yellow and hanging plants add an airiness to the space. Our young waitress arrives with menus in hand, we order diet cokes and look them over, yikes….it’s written in Bosnian! When she brings our drinks we ask for assistance in ordering, nice as can be she tells us about different dishes, we place our order and wait for the food to arrive. The dishes come out together, we have a small cabbage salad: finely shredded cabbage with a mild vinegar type dressing. The Cevapi is a Bosnian main-stay; tiny skinless sausages of ground meat served on a huge roll called Lepinja. The bread or Lepinja is fantastic, soft, fluffy and delicate there is nothing I can compare it to, slightly sweet, it has soaked up some of the juice from the Cevapi, delicious! The Cevapi itself is very tasty, it reminds me a bit of a Croation dish I have had. Served with sour cream for dipping, sliced raw onion and seasoned french fries, it is a hearty meal. We picked the stir fry for a bit of variety, tender chicken chunks and a large variety of veggies it is well seasoned and flavorful, yum! It has been wonderful day filled with beautiful architecture, interesting stories from the past and delectable food, giving us an even greater appreciation for all that surrounds us.

Tecumseh & Hidden Lake Gardens

29 May

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Springtime in Michigan is a short-lived wonder of Tulips, Daffodils and flowering trees; it’s when the heavenly scent of Lilac and Honeysuckle permeate the air. I love Spring. Hidden Lake Gardens is one of the best places to enjoy nature any time of year, but Spring is extraordinary. Located in Tipton Michigan, the gardens are nestled in the scenic Irish Hills. In 1926 Harry A Fee fulfilled his dream of owning a private lake by purchasing Hidden Lake and the surrounding 200 acres. He began creating a private garden laid out as a series of pictures, designing striking groupings of  plants and trees, he fabricated picturesque scenes for every season.  Wanting to share this beauty with the public, he donated everything to MSU in 1945. Expanding through the years, it is now a 755 acre botanical garden and arboretum. One of the nicest features of the park is the 6 miles of paved road that leads you through wooded areas and past breathtaking views, making the natural beauty accessible to everyone. For the more adventurous, there are 5 miles of hiking trails and picnic areas.

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We arrive at the gardens, pay our admission at the gatehouse, and begin the drive, in the distance I see a crabapple tree covered in fluffy white blooms; we have timed our visit well. Hosta Hillside is to our left, we park so we can get out of the car for a better look. We walk down to the lake, the water is still and clear, we see fish near the shoreline. I turn back toward the car, a multitude of Hosta’s are sprouting from the Earth, the magenta blooms of a Redbud break up the mass of green, a large shrub is covered in delicate yellow flowers. From here I will drive, allowing Kris to take photos; the road is a narrow one lane that snakes past the lake, through the trees. A stacked stone wall lines one side of the roadway, sunlight filters through Oak and Hickory leaves creating patterns on the asphalt, Creeping Myrtle is already blooming.  The road winds, twists and turns as we climb gentle hills, a deer stands in a grassy area unfazed by passing cars. Next the Dwarf and Rare Conifers take center stage, with over 500 specimens it is one of the finest collections in the country. The conservatory comes into view, we park again and go indoors.

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Inside the domes there is a definite mid-century feel to the architecture, narrow concrete pathways lead us through different climates. Brightly colored annuals are tucked into hanging baskets, Hibiscus and potted Geraniums mingle side by side, Palm trees are tall, nearly reaching the ceiling, we see trees that produce coffee and chocolate A large pot of Fuschia catch my eye, the flowers an amazing combination of cream, lavender and pink, a trumpet vine climbs a trellis. The arid dome is home to funky, woody plants bearing bronze colored flowers, cactus come in all shapes and sizes, some in bloom, I think the most unusual looking specimens are usually found in the arid display. The lathhouse is basically an outdoor living room; complete with comfy couches and chairs, shade loving ferns and Begonias take respite here, all that’s missing is a pitcher of lemonade. The bonsai display is just outside the lathhouse, tiny examples of White Cedar, Japanese Maples, Evergreens and Oak sit atop tall pedestals. It’s interesting to take the time to read about each specimen, some are quite old. Today they all seem to enjoying the warmth of the sun.

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Back in the car we continue to meander through the grounds, the area is more open and grassy as we near the exit. We finally reach the Arboretum, a large collection of native and exotic trees; Beech, Ash, Maple, ornamental shrubs, lilacs and what we came to see: flowering crabapples! As we get closer I see dozens of trees decked out in blossoms, I am in awe at the sight. The road leads us past trees that seem to be made of giant plumes of flowers. White crabapple trees are densely covered, branches look almost fluffy. Shades of pink run the gamut from the most pale to a deep raspberry color; the view is incredible, as is the scent. Random groupings hug the landscape, I keep looking from front to back as we idle by, this is definitely the showstopper in the gardens today, I’m so glad we came!

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We are headed to Tecumseh for lunch, we haven’t spent a lot of time here, so it will be fun to check it out. On our second pass down the main street (M-50) a building on one of the side streets catches Kris’s eye; a trip around the block leads us to Evans Street Station, where we will be having lunch. Formerly a city fire station, the building has been renovated into a “destination restaurant”. With a focus on farm to table they partner with many of the local growers in designing their menu. We walk around the back to the entrance and find a charming patio set up with tables and sunny yellow umbrellas, today we will be enjoying our meal Al fresco. Our waiter arrives promptly with water and menus, it doesn’t take long for us to decide. We place our order and chat with our waiter getting a bit of the lowdown on Tecumseh, before we know it plates of food arrive. The wedge salad was perfectly crisp, topped with herbed buttermilk dressing, crisp bacon, thinly sliced radish, peeled cherry tomato and a sprinkle of white cheddar, it was delicious. The Cuban sandwich is served on Avalon farm loaf; stuffed with shaved salami, prosciutto, house made pickles, Jarlsberg cheese and Dijon mustard it is grilled to a perfect crunch. The variety of flavors and textures in the sandwich makes it outstanding. What a great find.

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Tecumseh has a lovely downtown, the streetscape a colorful combination of 2 and 3-story brick buildings. At just over 5 square miles this was one of the first three settlements in the Michigan territory. The city became a manufacturing town in the 1930’s when Raymond Herrick founded Tecumseh Products, makers of refrigeration compressors. The first hermetically sealed compressor was made here in 1938, and the first window air conditioner was produced here in 1947. Herrick learned mass production techniques from Henry Ford himself, during WWII Tecumseh produced artillery shells for the Allied forces. In 1956 Tecumseh Products purchased one of the largest manufacturers of small gasoline engines in the US, Lauson Manufacturing Company, creating Tecumseh Power Company, engines were made here until 2007.

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Today the city has reinvented itself as a tourist destination. Historic buildings are filled with businesses such as restaurants, specialty shops, a bakery, winery and home decorating stores. We stroll down the street roaming in and out of shops, stopping in at the Spotted Cow Ice Cream Shop for a little dessert. Formerly a bank, the shop maintains the gorgeous marble counter and tile floor from its banking days. Walls are bright pink, the aroma of homemade waffle cones make it hard to concentrate, they have it all; soft serve frozen yogurt, hand dipped cones, sundaes and shakes. Kris and I each get a scoop, and it’s wonderful. As we finish our walk through downtown we pass several outdoor sculptures, part of Art Trail Tecumseh, we then go further on into the residential area. It’s like going back in time, homes are are large and elegant, a mixture of antique architecture; Victorian, Federal, no two houses are the same. Some are constructed of brick, most are wood; facades are highly detailed with ornamental trim and railings, delightful. Alas, it’s time to head back, located only 60 miles southwest of the city, what a great place to spend the day.

Detroit Film Theatre

16 May

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There is something very appealing to me to sit and watch a good movie on a rainy afternoon, on a recent Sunday we headed over to the Detroit Film Theatre to do just that. The 1,200 seat auditorium was built as part of the Detroit Institute of Arts in 1927, a collaborated effort of Paul Philippe Crete and C Howard Crane, the theater is gorgeous! For the last 30 years the theater has been host to acclaimed documentaries  subtitled foreign language films, restored classics, independent and silent films and director’s retrospectives. Today we are traveling to France, the year is 1971, the film, Max et les Ferrailleurs, parlez-vous francais?

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We find a parking space near the John R entrance, we purchase tickets in the outer lobby, the floor and walls are marble, the ceiling highlighted by a series of simple gold lines. The inner lobby is more decorative; the ceiling is embellished in gold, silver and copper, wonderfully ornate wrought iron floor lamps emit a soft light, the drinking fountain is a work of art itself. We follow the terazzo floor to a wonderful curving staircase leading to the mezzanine level; the back of each step beautifully decorated with lustrous Pewabic Tiles. At the top is the Crystal Gallery, originally a reception space, now a cafe, the room is breathtaking! The vaulted ceiling is two stories high, a row of stunning chandeliers dangle from above, floor to ceiling crystal reflecting walls cap off both sides. The windows are mammoth in size, allowing natural light to stream in, the oval space above them finely detailed. The cafe is a the perfect place to have a glass of wine, a cup of coffee, or a light snack before or after a film.

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Decorated in deep blue, gold and silver, the auditorium itself is lavish, opulent, magnificent. On each side of the stage mock box seat areas are capped with splendid gold grates, a single face rests at the peak. A ring of gold rectangular grates depict cherubs delighting in a bounty of fruits and vegetables surround the theatre. The ceiling and walls had to be designed around the Cassavant Feres classical pipe organ, fine details saturate the auditorium; a spectacular curved molding that joins wall and ceiling, Art Deco style grills along the back wall, C Howard Crane’s influence is obvious. The lights dim, we take our seats, the movie begins. It takes just a few minutes to acclimate myself to read the subtitles and watch the film simultaneously. Billed as a crime drama the story takes us through the planning of a bank heist, a detective seeking revenge and the complicated life of a beautiful woman in love with two men. C’est la vie!

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When the movie ends it is time for dinner, we are grabbing a bite to eat at Honest ? Johns over on Selden. A local favorite for many years the menu offers something for every taste; chicken and waffles, burgers and fries, salads, sandwiches and even vegetarian selections. We choose a booth by a window and pour over the menu, we place our order with the very friendly waitress and wait for our food to arrive. Restaurant patrons range from suburban couples and bar stool regulars to college students and hipsters, everybody feels at home here. We hear the clanking of balls from a game of pool taking place on the other side of the divider, neon signs sport phrases like “Sobriety Sucks” and “Men Lie”. Our food arrives and it looks delicious, the hardest part is waiting for Kris to take the pictures before we can dig in. The spinach salad is great; tender baby spinach, crisp turkey bacon, sweet vidalia onions and grape tomatoes served with a curry mustard dressing. The spinach artichoke melt tasted even better than it looked; soft grilled pita bread filled with spinach, artichoke, provolone and parmesan cheese, served with a side of chipotle-basil mayo, I’d come back for this sandwich anytime. 

Wyandotte

3 May

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Every once in a while the opportunity arises to see or do something out of the ordinary; such was the case on a lovely Saturday morning when we found ourselves in Wyandotte at the North American Model Engineering Society (NAMES) Expo. Modelers of all ages, from all over, gather to show off their amazing creations and promote the hobby of model engineering. Held at Yack Arena the expo fills 30,000 sq ft of space with miniature, functioning models of things like engines, trains, tractors, aircraft and boats; it’s something you have to see to believe!Tables with shiny metal objects near the arena entrance immediately grab our attention, on the left a crowd forms around a scale cylinder radial engine, the proud modeler answers one question after another, I don’t even know what it is and I’m impressed! Kris is extremely mechanical and understands the way things work, with me as his companion he will quickly grow tired of having to explain what everything is.

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We start down the first aisle, a sea of exhibitors display incredible, real working examples of  mechanical items scaled down to table-top size, lines of compressed air operate tiny steam engines creating a rhythmic popping sound. Trains are popular, there are several examples each done in a different scale, they are perfect down to the smallest detail. Men stand proudly behind their tables,  I have as much fun looking at the items as I do watching their creators talk with passing admirers. As we round a corner I spot a 1/4 scale Whizzer motor bike, further down a 1/5 scale bridgeport, the featured model this year is a V8 engine, complete with radiator and mini spark plugs. Many pieces are mounted on pretty wooden bases, often times engraved plates tell us what each item is. One modeler has made an entire old-fashioned machine shop complete with an arbor press, wood lathe and saw table, the exactness is mind-blowing.

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We see several different engines, some run on gasoline, all it takes is a little bit of revving to draw an audience. I recognize items like transmissions, cylinder heads and a super charger, each teeny tiny piece is a work of art. Every aisle has something amazing; a cannon, clock, guns and meticulous recreations of race cars and Chris Craft boats, these guys even make their own tools! Kris had his hands full taking pictures. Often times the builder would show us the way things work, truly fascinating stuff.

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When lunch time arrived we thought we’d check out downtown Wyandotte, we see  a restaurant  sign that says Sushi Bar Japanese Cuisine, we’re in. When we step inside I notice the attractive iridescent tile on the back wall, wind chimes hang lazily over the sushi bar. We are seated near the window and handed menus. After a quick scan we choose three sushi rolls, a salad and the age dashi tofu. Drinks and salad arrived quickly, good, we’re hungry. The lunch crowd thins out, the rest of our meal arrives. The tofu is excellent, a crisp sesame crust and tasty dipping sauce, one of the better ones we’ve had. The sushi was fresh and delicious.

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We walk over to Biddle, which is Wyandotte’s main street, drawn in by the appealing window display, we stop in at River’s Edge Gallery. The first floor is a combination art gallery, interior design studio and custom framing shop, as we wander through I recognize names of many Detroit artists. We ascend the stairs to the second floor, a new exhibit has just opened, the artist’s pieces are engaging, the space a delightful array of art. The gallery owner concentrates on the art of New Detroit, the city is becoming known as a hotbed for the creative community.

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I had ice cream on my mind, Wyandotte is lucky enough to have both a Sanders and a Stroh’s, since I can get Sanders locally Stroh’s was our destination. As we walk up the block Kris is intrigued by a charming 2-story building. Curious as to what the interior looks like he opens the door and proceeds in, just inside the foyer are a set of saloon-style swinging doors, we push through those and find ourselves inside an enchanting German pub known as R P McMurphy’s. This place is awesome! The brick building was built in the 1890’s, it started out as Schroeder’s Pub, Dr. Schroeder had his medical practice on the second floor. We take a seat at the gorgeous dark wood bar and strike up a conversation with Joe the bartender; he answers our questions as he prepares the absolute best Spanish Coffee I’ve ever had. One of the waitresses we talked to told us it used to be a joke that you could stop in at the pub for a ‘shot’ before you went upstairs to get your shot. As we sit we swivel in our chair to take in our surroundings, the tile floor is original as is most everything in the place. The most striking feature is the hand painted period mural that runs the full length of the far wall. The characters and scenes look like they are out of a story book during the days of Robin Hood, they have stood the test of time perfectly. Pewabic tile fills the space below the murals, we’re told that was added later, chandeliers look medieval, thick wood beams divide the ceiling, the place is like a time capsule. Can’t wait to come back for dinner.

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Wyandotte is home to a bevy of architectural styles, making it a great place to take a stroll. If you’re into the “Pop” style of the late 1960’s early 70’s be sure and poke your head into the Chelsea menswear store, also on Biddle. The building was renovated in 1970, outside the “Chelsea” lettering  and oblong cut-out for the window are fab, the Pop theme continues inside with the circle panels in the ceiling creating polka dots of light. Focusing in clothing made locally and in the USA, it’s also a great place for guys to shop! 

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With so much to offer and just a short ride from Detroit,we’ll be back in the summer for dinner, ice cream and a stroll along the river. Who knows what else we may discover.

Kirk in the Hills: Sunday Night Music

9 Apr

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Detroit has always been home to industry and innovation, creating great wealth among men; many of these men turned out to be extremely generous philanthropists. Edwin S George is one such man, in 1947 he donated Cedarholm, his home and estate for the creation of the Kirk in the Hills congregation of the Presbyterian Church. Kirk hosts special music events and concerts throughout the year, tonight we are attending a performance of The Passion according to St John by Johann Sebastian Bach. The Kirk campus resides on a 40 acre setting on Island Lake, the Gothic designed sanctuary is an imposing sight; the interior is equally impressive. Completed in 1958, the sanctuary looks and feels straight out of the 13th century. We purchase our tickets and have a look around, true to Gothic architecture my eyes are immediately drawn upward; I take in pointed arches, vertical lines and stately flying buttresses. Majestic stained glass windows in deep blue, red, white, with  a touch of yellow and green are immense and line both walls. Distinctive light fixtures dangle from long chains casting light both up and down. The floor is slate, a main aisle splits the nave in half, multiple rows of wooden pews make up each side. We find ourselves a seat and get comfortable; the concert is about to begin.

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The musicians have taken their seats in front of the altar, a group of about 20 white-robed choir members take their places. This is our first experience attending an oratorio. An Oratorio is a musical composition including an orchestra, choir and soloists using various characters and arias to tell a story. The tale of The Passion begins with the betrayal and capture of Jesus; the choir starts by singing a powerful chorus, a soloist playing an Evangelist stands at the lectern performing a recitative (sung speech), another plays the part of Jesus; voices are strong, dramatic. The story continues to be told by members of the Kirk Chancel Choir, the accompanying orchestra is magnificent, a beautiful Knight Vernon harpsichord rests between the front pews.  The music is stirring, it completely sets the mood; at times it is haunting. The church is exquisite, the ideal setting for this piece, the acoustics are perfect. I am following along in my program and see we are nearing the end; the final chorus has begun, it is loud, extravagant and moving. When it is finished there is a beat of silence before the applause begins. The sanctuary is an amazing place to attend musical events, the DSO will be performing here on April 13 and May 18. The 20th Annual Great Lakes Chamber Music Festival takes place here June 8-23, come check it out!

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It is nearly 10pm on Sunday, dinner is long past due. Birmingham is just a short drive away, we are sure something will still be open. We park in front of Dick O Dow’s on Maple, we luck out, they are still serving food. The chill of the night air disappears immediately as we step inside, the space is warm, cozy and oozes Irish charm. The floor is made up of wide wood planks, wainscoting and walls are rich, dark wood, as is the bar, the ceiling is painted and treated giving the whole room a rustic feel. Authentic instruments and knick knacks find homes on shelves throughout the restaurant; our waitress tells us everything came directly from Ireland, pretty neat! Our hunger has gotten the best of us and we order as quickly as possible; Irish Sliders which are made up of corned beef, Swiss cheese, cole slaw and 1000 Island Dressing are tasty and hit the spot. The Carey’s Special sandwich layers Irish bacon (think Canadian bacon), fried egg, Irish cheddar, lettuce and tomato on a baguette, fries come on the side, yum! We eat speedily, but enjoy each bite; afterward we kick back and relax for a bit soaking up the atmosphere. In one night we feel as if we have traveled back to 13th century Scotland and then to an old pub in Ireland. Who says there’s nothing to do on a Sunday?

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