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Akron Again…

We are staying at the O’Neil House in Akron, Ohio, it is time for breakfast. We descend the winding staircase, voices chatter in the foyer, the scent of freshly baked something fills the air. We pause at the bottom of the stairs to take a good look at the house; hand-carved linen-fold oak paneling lines the grand foyer, large matching entry doors flank each end, elegant furnishings and ornate pieces create an exquisite scene. The dining room is lavishly decorated in blue; a crystal chandelier is perched above a stylish antique table and chairs, the white plaster ceiling is decoratively embossed. Crossing through the room we have a seat in the breakfast room, it is more pastel with peach and white walls, the chandelier appears to be retrofitted with colorful glass shades giving it a whimsical feeling. Gayle warmly greets us, coffee and juice are served, within minutes plates arrive with Belgian waffles topped with fresh fruit in a light syrup, delicious! We have light conversation about the house and Akron in general with the woman who works with Gayle, she slips into the kitchen then reappears with the main course, a delicate Quiche with a few strips of bacon, delectable! We savor each bite along with the experience of sitting in this lovely room, sunshine pours in through leaded glass windows that overlook lush grounds and splendid gardens.

When we are finished we move through the rest of the main floor, Kris snaps photos as I look around in awe. The living room is massive, planked oak floors are topped with Oriental rugs, wood beams adorn the ceiling, walls are wrapped in stunning oak paneling, a huge stone fireplace is the centerpiece of the room. The furniture is a mix of comfortable modern couches and period pieces, it works well together; a piano in the corner is barely noticeable in the large room. Down a couple of steps is the garden room; slate floor, fireplace, here the wood beams are wrapped with vines, leaded glass windows are accented with stained glass pieces. Workers are setting up for a bridal shower to be held here later in the day, what an enchanting room for such an event, the O’Neil house is also popular for weddings. The library is as wonderful as the other rooms, simply smaller, quaint. We gather our things, bid Gayle farewell and head into downtown Akron.

The Akron Art Museum moved into the old 1899 Post Office building back in 1981, deep red brick, limestone trim, it is done in Italian Renaissance Revival style. In 2007 the museum tripled in size with the addition of the John S. and James L. Knight building. The new structure soars in glass and steel, throughout the building you will find cantilevered, suspended and floating forms, vastly different but respectful of the old building, I like the way the new embraces the old. The grand lobby is large and open, natural light floods the space, the auditorium and Museum Store are on this floor. Exhibit space takes up the second floor, Real/Surreal The Elusive American Dream is the current show featuring more than 60 works from artists such as Edward Hopper, Man Ray and Andrew Wyeth. Wandering from gallery to gallery across polished wood floors there are large sculptures, amazing paintings and beautiful photography. Tucked away off a hallway is the Paul Stankard Glass exhibit–don’t miss it! Back on the main floor we enter the McDowell Galleries in the old building, here we view pieces from 1850 to 1950. We chat with a volunteer who tells about the Summit Artspace just a short walk away, that’s where we’re headed next.

Summit ArtSpace is a collection of artist studios, galleries and performance space housed in a historic building on Market Street. The first floor, the gallery space, displays works by artists living or working in Akron, after walking through we make our way up to the third floor where the artist studios are located. Much like we are doing with old buildings in Detroit, the third floor has been divided into small studio spaces allowing artists a place to work and sell their pieces. Oil paintings, watercolors, pottery, jewelry, photography and fiber can all be found here, some artists are on hand working and answering questions. One artist makes his pieces from found objects, another out of discarded mechanical items, the work is interesting, creative. The second floor of the building is used as a creative business center and for performance space, it’s nice to see an old building brought back to life.

Our next stop is a little more out of the ordinary; off the beaten path, in a tiny industrial area on Bank Street, is an old warehouse- turned- wonderland of antique, vintage, kitsch, wacky, funky, weird stuff called the Bomb Shelter. The minute we pull up to the building we know this is going to be awesome, we poke around a little bit outside then go in, WOW! I can’t even grasp all that I am looking at. Immediately in front of us is a living room setting dating back to the 50’s, next I see an old salon hair dryer, sans the chair, a beat up automotive hood. There are no traditional aisles, it’s sort of a free for all, let your eyes guide you. Looking up, bicycles, wrought iron chairs, tables and antique signs hang from the ceiling, Old school lockers, bowling balls, a motorized surf board and a Speed Queen washing machine rest on the floor along with a giant tiki, tire molds, a partial rat rod and end tables. This place is great!

Items seem to be grouped into categories, one area has outdoor items like a vintage BBQ, camping gear, suitcases, and WWII rations. A large kitchen area displays dining tables and chairs, dishware, glassware, canisters, lighting, china cabinets and an antique stove; it really is like going back in time. There are lots of auto-related things; gas cans, oil cans, hoods, tires, complete cars for goodness sakes! Much of it could be considered “antique industrial”; light fixtures, machinery, cabinets, from warehouses, hospitals and churches. Did I mention they have a ton of letters for sale, you know, the kind found on buildings and signs? One of the coolest sections is near the back, it looks like the TV section of an old department store; RCA, Crosley, Admiral and Westinghouse television sets are gathered together on shelves and risers, consoles, portables and antennas make a fabulous display….Random things like an Easy-Bake oven, old album covers, fantastic lamps, bring smiles to our faces; it’s definitely a place where one can reminisce. With 12,000 sq. ft, it is impossible to see everything in just one visit, it’s the best collection of stuff for sale we have seen in a very long time!

As we exit the building we notice the small shop next door, Devil Strip Dolly’s, it looks intriguing so we go inside. It is a gallery of sorts, well,, they actually call it an “anti-gallery of weird art and oddities”, exactly! There are lots of unusual pieces scattered about the space, a sculpture of a giant serpent hatching from an egg, walls are bright green, orange and red, one room has all black walls. Horror dolls, skulls and flames are popular themes along with skeletons and robots. From prints and jewelry to clothing and masks if you’re looking for something weird, you can find it here.

We are driving over to Highland Square to have lunch at Mr. Zubs Deli, there is parking right out front. Inside we gaze at the long list of sandwiches named after movie characters, we place our order at the counter then take a seat overlooking Market street. Our sandwiches arrive wrapped in paper in cardboard baskets, we take a half of each of the sandwiches and dig in; Uncle Rico is piled high with grilled roast beef, onion and chive cream cheese, topped with crispy tater tots on a wheat bagel–yummy! Vincent Gambini has Italian Salami, Capicola, Mortadella and salami slathered with cream cheese, onion, lettuce and tomato on an onion bagel–delish. It is time for us to start making our way north to Cleveland where we have a room reserved for the night. Always in search of a scenic route from one place to the next Kris makes his way to Riverview Rd, time to sit back and enjoy the ride.

This part of Ohio, known as the Cuyahoga Valley, is loaded with parks and trails, we see a sign for the Ohio and Erie Canal Towpath Trail and decide to get out and stretch our legs. The path is hard-packed crushed limestone, nice to walk on, wildflowers of yellow, orange and lavendar are still in bloom, as is the Ragweed–argh! The trail is peaceful and picturesque, a sign indicates we are standing at the remains of lock #26 of the old Ohio & Erie Canal, the canal used from 1827-1913, once railroads were established the canal became impractical. A long boardwalk stretches out ahead, we pause, overlooking pretty Summit lake, Heron cling to fallen trees, lillypads densely cover the water, we reach the end of the boardwalk and turn back, it is warm and we are thirsty. Szalay’s Farm is conveniently located near the trail-head, it is one of those charming farm markets housed in a would be barn that you just can’t resist. Fresh produce is everywhere, a wooden cart has “strawberry apples” piled high, I select two, grab some cold water and we are off again.

We are in the Cuyahoga Valley National Park area, we see the sign for Brandywine Falls and decide to have a look, it has been many years since our last visit. Parking in the lot we follow the signs to the falls. It is gorgeous here; nestled among large trees, Berea Sandstone and Bedford Shale, an elevated boardwalk hugs the rock. Below is Brandywine Creek, a tributary of the Cuyahoga, at the end of the boardwalk we are rewarded with a spectacular view of the falls; 60 feet high a rush of white water cascades over sandstone creating a bridal veil effect, it is stunning. It is late and we still have miles of driving ahead, time to go!

Oh Dear, I just noticed we’re plenty text and picture heavy, hope your computers didn’t explode… See, plenty to check out in Akron!

Tags: Akron Art Museum, Akron Ohio, Art Space, Bomb Shelter, Brandywine Falls, Cuyahoga Valley, Mr. Zubs, O'Neil House, Ohio Erie Canal, Towpath Trail, Travel

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Categories Road Trips, Visit

Let’s Go To Akron!

12 Oct

We are hitting the road for the next few days, taking advantage of what’s left of warm days and later sunsets. Getting an early start, Kris cannot resist the temptation to drive through Ohio’s Amish country, smooth roads lead us past pretty farms, fresh produce stands, and countless buggies being pulled up and down hilly roads by graceful horses. We pass through quaint towns; Millersburg, Berlin, Charm and Walnut Creek before heading north to our planned destination, Akron. Known affectionately as “Rubber City”, Akron lies about 39 miles south of Lake Erie. Once home to tire giants Goodrich, General Tire, Firestone and Goodyear, today only Goodyear remains. Airships, blimps, dirigibles and Zepplins have been manufactured at the Goodyear airdock since WWII. The city itself covers rolling hills, the Little Cuyahoga River passes through town, the University of Akron campus is in the heart of the city.

We take our initial ride through downtown to get a lay of the land, then take Market Street towards the Highland Square neighborhood. Immediately we spot interesting buildings, a funky looking bar, a cluster of assorted businesses…wait is that vintage furniture in the window? After parking in a nearby lot, we walk down to West Hill Hardware, the sign says ‘established 1930’, I don’t doubt it for a minute. The floor is well-worn, aisles are stocked with new, salvaged and restored goods, some signage appears original such as the “Master” Hardwood Dowels display….sweet. Fluorescent lights hang from chains illuminating pegboards of random items, antique mirrors and an impressive collection of glass globes. Of course you can still buy paint by the gallon, nails by the pound and any other do-dad you’d expect to find at a hardware store, it would just be so much more fun to buy it here. Directly next door is the Land of Plenty, self-described as “beautiful things from every era”, I think that sums it up perfectly! The space is long and narrow, the large front window overlooks W Market Street; vintage furniture, lush plants, contemporary art and even rocks look perfectly at home. There is much to take in, jewelry, glassware, books, paintings and hand-crafted items, Kris spots an awesome leather-bound book of home plans from 1950, super cool, we pay at the counter and head over to Highland Square.

Considered Akron’s hip, artsy neighborhood, Highland Square possesses mature trees, charming homes and vibrant, independent businesses popular with folks in their 20’s and 30’s. Today is “Square Fest” a celebration of music and art featuring local artists. The heat has been building all day, clouds are gathering and becoming dark, fingers crossed it just blows over. Canopy’s are set up on both sides of Market St. selling clothing, handmade jewelry, paintings, baked goods and of course, Akron-centric items; families with babies and dogs on leashes stop to talk to one another. Music appears to be the main focus of the event with several stages set up along the street, large crowds gather, some sing along. We listen to several acts as we wander through the festival area, the historic Highland Theatre has a cool marquis, we pop in and out of shops, pass a great old apartment building, ending up at Mary Coyle Old Fashioned Ice Cream Parlor. You know where this is going….Walter and Mary Coyle opened their ice cream parlor in 1937, the Coyles moved out to Phoenix in 1951, selling their Highland Square store. The business changed ownership several times, in 1984 Michael Trecaso purchased the store, he closed his Italian restaurant near U of A and combined the two, now serving Italian food and delicious homemade ice cream (16% butterfat). It is said to be one of the oldest restaurants still operating in Akron. The building looks just as it did back in the day; wood paneling covers the walls, tables and chairs wear bright orange, the neon sign still hangs on the wall behind the counter. We take one of the few remaining tables and order a hot fudge chocolate malt, it arrives in it’s signature metal mixing cup along with a glass and two straws–it is delicious!

Tonight we are staying at the O’Neil House Bed and Breakfast, built in 1923 for William O’Neil, the founder of General Tire, the 19 room Tudor mansion is nestled on 6 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds. Pulling in through the long circle drive, we find a space near the front door, brick and stone, the home seems massive. We are greeted by our host Gayle, I remember her from our stay nearly 20 years ago, I love that this is still her home. Leading us up the elegant staircase, turning left, then down a short hall, she opens the door to our room. We step inside, she hands us our keys, gives us a few instructions, then she is off. We are standing in our own private living room, a wood burning fireplace takes up most of the left wall, a couch, loveseat and chair flanked by tables make up the sitting area, a brass chandelier casts a warm glow over the room. To the right is a large wood table and chairs, large windows grace each side of the room, the hardwood floor creaks as we walk across. A short hall leads to a dressing area, to the left is the bathroom, it is magnificent! The floor is black tile, walls are encased in a dark green and black marbled vitrolite, trimmed out in more vitrolite in pale green, a crystal chandelier hangs from the decorative vaulted ceiling, along with the usual amenities; sink, toilet and shower, there is an oversized bath tub and bidet, it’s gorgeous. Finally we make our way to the bedroom, directly across from the door is a 20 ft leaded glass bay window, tucked in the space is yet another sitting area, the room is swathed in luxurious draperies and linens, walls are angled, we are treated to yet another crystal chandelier, this is the Master Suite. I don’t want to leave…. oh wait, it’s dinner time.

Family owned and operated since 1949 Luigi’s is a true Akron landmark. Famous for their pizza, salads and pastas the restaurant has grown from a modest dining room seating 60 to a total of three dining rooms with the capacity to seat 190. We park in a lot on Main St. in front of the restaurant, customers emerge from the front door carrying pizza boxes, inside there’s a buzz of activity. We sit in a wooden booth near the door, a short counter seats customers, a vintage Budweiser globe fixture hangs above. The wall beside us is covered in old photographs of people, sports teams and trophys. Our order is simple, pizza and salad, we get up and walk around while we wait for our food to arrive; walls are hand-painted murals, an eclectic collection of art pieces hang from the ceiling, giving the place a fun vibe. Back at the table our Italian tossed salad arrives covered in a heap of mozzarella cheese-a signature of Luigi’s, the salad is crisp and perfectly dressed. The pizza follows quickly, lifting a piece to the plate, mozzarella stretches the distance. The crust has a nice crunch and thickness, the red sauce is tasty, toppings are generous; since we can’t save any left-overs, we have no choice but to finish it off. It has been a long day, time for some sleep.

Tags: Akron Ohio, Antiques & Vintage, Detroit, Highland Square, Luigi's, Mary Coyle, O'Neil House, Roadtrip, Rubber City, Towpath Trail, Travel

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Categories Road Trips, Visit

Cranbrook & More !

6 Oct

I love this time of year; days are still warm, leaves are just beginning to change, evenings are getting cooler-hinting at what’s to come. Here in the Mitten it is harvest time, farmers markets are bursting at the seams with fresh produce; apples are plentiful this year. Today we are at the Birmingham Farmer’s Market, going on every Sunday from May to October, it takes place in Municipal Parking Lot #6 at the bottom of the hill on Old Woodward, each year it gets a little bigger. We are greeted by bunches of fresh-cut Zinnias, pots of Mums and music in the distance. We meander down the aisles, baskets are overflowing with ripe red tomatoes, peppers in a rainbow of colors from red to purple, fancy skinned eggplant and potatoes in a variety of shapes and shades. The marketplace continues to the left, behinds the Woodward storefronts, prepared foods are readily available, the hot dogs smell delicious. Jars of local honey are stacked on a table, they glow in the sunlight, plastic containers are filled with popcorn kernels, artists display their wares. The back of the lot is wooded, picnic tables invite shoppers to indulge in breakfast, lunch, or just sit with a cup of coffee and enjoy the surrounding activities. Vendors are set up under rows of white canopy’s offering baked goods, artistic gourds and gardening advice. Pots of fall perennials are in bloom, tomatoes come in grape, pear and cherry varieties, bundles of Japanese Lanterns look ready for Halloween. With about 70 booths each Sunday seems to be a little different, the quality and selection will make you want to visit often. With only a few weeks left in the season, check it out soon! Time to go, our tour at Cranbrook begins soon.

In 1887 George G Booth married Ellen Warren Scripps in Detroit; he was the publisher of the Evening News Association and later co-founder of Booth Newspapers, she was the daughter and later heiress to her father James E Scripps, founder of the Detroit News. The exceptionally wealthy couple lived in a magnificent home on Trumbull in Detroit-now the site of Scripps Park, in 1904 they purchased land in Bloomfield Hills and hired Albert Kahn (who else) to build them a summer home, it was called Cranbrook House. In 1908, after the death of James Scripps, the Booth’s made Cranbrook their full-time residence. In 1922 these most generous philanthropists (the Booth’s were also benefactors of the DIA) believed their estate should serve a public purpose, they called on Eliel Saarinen to help complete a master plan and the building of six new institutions began. Booth was an avid student of the Arts and Crafts movement, along with Saarinen he worked closely with sculptor Carl Milles; what they fostered is now a 319 acre campus consisting of the Brookside School for Children, Christ Church Cranbrook, Cranbrook School for Boys, Cranbrook Academy of Art, Cranbrook Institute of Science and the Kingswood School for Girls. The men worked together for decades designing, shaping, forging an enchanted center for learning, thinking and creating. This National Historic Landmark features the works of Eliel Saarinen, Albert Kahn, Steven Holl, Carl Milles, Marshall Fredericks, Peter Rose, Tod Willaims and Billie Tsien. A center of education, science and art, it serves students from Pre K to Graduate students, the Booths deeded their home, contents and surrounding property to the Cranbrook Foundation in 1944 and continued living on the premises until their deaths. Today we are doing a walking tour,The Cranbrook Vision: Architecture, Landscape and Sculpture.

We meet our guide inside the Cranbrook Art Museum, designed by Eliel Saarinen and built in 1942 it is a wonderful example of Mid Century Modern architecture. It is only the two of us on the 1:00 tour, we begin just outside the museum; to one side is the well-known Orpheus Fountain completed in 1937 by Carl Milles, to the other the Triton Pools; a long pool made up of a series of three tiered basins designed by Saarinen and bronze Triton sculptures by Milles, the sight is breathtaking. The entire campus was designed on an axis, standing in this location our eyes are treated to panoramic views leading through arches, past sculptures ending at thoughtfully placed structures; every tree, every walkway was planned. Walking towards Lone Pine Rd we stop and gaze at the Triton Pools, the Nichols Gate (Saarinen 1941) parallels the narrow roadway, a delicate design in wrought iron flanked by Milles sitting boars. Cranbrook is beautiful year-long but there’s something special about visiting in the fall, the students have moved in, the grounds are buzzing with activity, the scenery is outstanding. As we walk towards the dining hall we pass Milles Sunglitter sculpture and his Siren with Fishes fountain, I simply have to stop and look at each piece. We encounter walkways of patterned brick, walls with stone accent pieces, and arched passageways, all embellished with amazing detail, many with an Art Deco flair. It’s as if we’ve been transported to a different place and time, as close to Europe as you’re going to get in the Midwest.

Our guide is filled with interesting stories and information, once we step inside the dining hall her voice falls on deaf ears as we take in this extraordinary room. Designed by Saarinen, the rectangular dining room looks like it’s straight out of Harry Potter; barrel-vaulted ceiling, long, narrow leaded glass windows allow sunlight to flood the room-no two are alike, original tables and chairs still serve the students well, the parquet floor gleams in this light. Indoor lighting consists of 2 rows of unique fixtures resembling inverted glass shades that dangle from long chains, they are elegant and again create a bit of an Art Deco feel, a large fireplace anchors one wall. Back outdoors we study the building, everything here is a work of art; doors, windows, brickwork, it seems we are never far from the sound of water splashing in a fountain or a marvelous Milles sculpture. Buildings and spaces were created by architects, artists and gardeners, creating areas of beauty, respite. We are now in the quadrangle, an expanse of green grass softens the hardscape, architectural elements include copper gutters, carved wood doors, bronze sculptures, archways and the Quadrangle fountain, it is all so picturesque.

Our walk leads us to the Williams Natatorium, built in 1999, designed by Tod Williams and Billie Tsien, this 20,000 sq ft building is spectacular. Housing an eight-lane swimming pool, it feels as if you are swimming outdoors; a deep blue ceiling opens to the elements through skylights, outside the large windows, trees and plantings give the impression of seclusion. The building received an award in 2001 from the AIA. Used for competitive and recreational swimming, it appears to be popular. Continuing through campus the pergola has recently been restored, great wrought iron pieces innocently attract our attention, a concrete column looks as if it is tufted, we learn the school is still made up of 2 single-sex campuses. Back to the Art Museum, stopping inside we wander around the new Modernism exhibit, we are so in our element here. Great displays of furniture, textiles, photos, blue prints and renderings make us ohh and aahhh, in the very back a room is set up where you can actually sit in an Eames chair or at a Saarinen table, pretty cool! The permanent collection contains pieces by Charles and Ray Eames, Harry Bertoia and Maija Grotell. The Academy of Art, founded by the Booth’s in 1932, is one of the nations leading graduate schools of architecture, art and design, is also found in this building. George and Ellen’s desire to create a place of learning, meaning and beauty was the catalyst for Cranbrook, their dream lives on today.

Lunch anyone? The Griffin Claw Brewing Company opened not long ago to great fanfare in Birmingham. Owned by one of the families who has ownership in Big Rock Chophouse just down S Eton St, it is one of the top 10 largest breweries in Michigan. It is another gorgeous day, the roll-up doors are fully opened, folks are evenly distributed throughout the patio, dining and bar area, the Lions are on TV. Taking a high-top table near the bar I first read over the beer menu, they have 12 beers on tap including seasonal and specialty beers. After a series of questions and answers with our server I choose the Bourbon Imperial Stout, Kris orders one of their sour beers with a splash of homemade raspberry syrup, yum. The casual menu features high quality ingredients in a selection of starters and local favorites. The 12,000 sq ft facility is dedicated mostly to the brewery, Dan Rogers is their world-class brewmaster and is no stranger to winning top awards for his creations. My beer is fantastic, luckily our food arrives before I finish it off. The Caesar salad is excellent, crisp lettuce, great dressing. The Claw Burger is made from chopped brisket, this one is a double decker, very flavorful and cooked just the way we like it, the seasoned fries are tasty too. My beer was outstanding, service was excellent, the food delicious, to top it off, the Lions won!

Tags: Architecture, Birmingham MI, Craft Beer, Cranbrook, Detroit Tours, Farmers Markets, Fredericks, Griffin Claw, Kahn, Milles, Saarinen, Travel

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Categories Drink, Eat, Visit

DETROIT: Cultural Center Tour

28 Sep

Now and again we like to be ‘tourists’ in our own city; these days tours of Detroit can be taken daily, choices vary from walking and bicycle to segways and buses, today our feet will take us through Detroit’s Cultural Center. We begin our tour at the McKenzie House, a lovely 1895 Queen Ann style residence that is now Preservation Detroit’s (f.k.a. Preservation Wayne) headquarters. As Detroit’s largest and oldest historic preservation organization, members have worked tirelessly since 1975 to preserve, promote and protect the city’s rich architectural heritage. Over the years we have trekked through the streets of the city, gone inside private homes and seen amazing buildings on tours led by this all volunteer organization. We meet inside the house, a large group has gathered for this Saturday morning tour, we pay our $10 and head out the door, gathering on the Cass Ave sidewalk.

As we make our way over to Woodward, our guide Kathleen, shares interesting stories and histories of buildings we pass, her assistant Susan adds to the conversation. On Woodward we see large historic homes, reminding us that this once was a residential neighborhood, many are currently owned by Wayne State University and used for storage and administrative purposes. We pause in front of the Maccabees Building, built in 1927 for the fraternal organization Knights of the Maccabees, the elaborately carved limestone facade is incredible. The main entryway deserves a few moments of our time, we stop and study intricate patterns and series of solemn knights that surround the elongated arch, I see columns and faces, two knights stand atop the door frame, above them a fanciful clock is anchored to the building.

Just down the street we enter the Detroit Public Library Main Branch, designed by Cass Gilbert in the Italian Renaissance style, it was built in 1921 of Vermont marble and serpentine Italian marble trim. If you have never been inside the library, you need to see it. To the right is the Children’s library, I love the fireplace. Mary Chase Perry Stratton created the tiles, large ones represent fairy tales, others shimmer in her signature luster glaze. We ascend a staircase, an ornate coffered ceiling comes into view. At the top of the stairs a barrel-vaulted ceiling is illuminated by lantern style lights hanging from a single chain. Adam Strom Hall is spectacular, a mural is painted in three sections, a man fills the center space, he holds the past in one hand and the present in the other, Kathleen has much to tell us in this room. We exit the building through the back, this is the 1963 addition to the building, do not miss the magnificent mosiac fascade.

The Detroit Historical Museum is our next stop, out front is Legends Plaza, a collection of hand prints set in concrete of men and women who have called Detroit home. As I listen I walk around placing my hands inside the hand prints of Al Kaline, Elmore Leonard, Lily Tomlin, Gordie Howe and Alice Cooper. Further up Woodward the George L Beecher House is being refurbished, this 3-story yellow brick and limestone home was designed by HJ Maxwell Grylls and built in 1894, one of the most outstanding features is the original Tiffany stained glass window on the east Ferry side of the home. Across the street stands the Hecker-Smiley mansion, you have probably seen this castle-like structure as you have driven down Woodward. The once private home is marvelous, designed by Louis Kamper it is 20,988 sq ft of French Renaissance Chateauesque design, Kris and I have previously been inside, the interior is spectacular. Around the corner on Ferry Street is the former home of Charles Lang Freer, he was a Detroit industrialist with a passion for collecting art, at one time he purchased Whistler’s Peacock Room and had it installed in his home; it is now housed at The Smithsonian Institution in Washington DC. Across the street a series of four restored Victorian homes and two carriage houses make up the Inn on Ferry, a lovely alternative to staying in a hotel when visiting the city. The East Ferry Avenue Historic District was originally part of the Ferry Seed Company, the neighborhood was developed in the late 1800’s into an upper-class neighborhood. The street is gorgeous, great architecture, mature trees and today, a flawless blue sky.

The College for Creative Studies Ford Campus is located on Kirby, buildings represent many different time periods and architectural styles, large sculptures dot the campus. Further down Kirby we arrive at the Scarab Club, the brown brick building is rich in details, home to artists studios and galleries it’s a fascinating place. We round the corner at the DIA and walk up Farnsworth, The Rackham Education Memorial Building rests here, built in 1941 for the Engineering Society of Detroit it is made of Georgia marble, black granite and features cast bronze windows. The building houses a 1000 seat auditorium on the main level and a ballroom on the lower level, darn, we can’t go in! Our attention is diverted by the sound of music and stomping feet, as we near the front of the DIA we find an outdoor stage playing host to Flamenco dancers and a guitarist, passersby marvel at the sight, some take a seat and stay awhile. Our tour group moves to the front of the Detroit Institute of Arts, a wedding party poses for photos on the front stairs, you couldn’t ask for a more perfect day, the bridal party is quite elegant, the building entrance providing the backdrop. Rodin’s Thinker looks as if he has a lot on his mind today, bankruptcy can do that to a guy. Our tour ends here. Preservation Detroit’s tour season continues through the month of October, guides are friendly, knowledgeable and passionate about Detroit. If you’d like to get a closer look at many of the places we visited today, come downtown on December 7th for Detroit’s 41st Annual Noel Night; music, art, historic buildings, authentic Christmas spirit–don’t miss it!

My stomach rumbles as a reminder that it is lunchtime, we are heading over to the Jefferson House inside the Pontchartrain Hotel. Named after the legendary ‘Pontch’ hotel that once stood on the corner of Woodward and Cadillac Square, this hotel opened in 1965. Recently re-opened as a Crown Plaza, we are anxious to have a look. The front wall of the Jefferson House restaurant is all windows, sunlight seeps in, our table overlooks Jefferson and the reconstruction of Cobo Arena turned ballroom and convention space. The room is done up in cream and taupe with rich wood accents, the ceiling is decorated in a metallic finish and lit from the edges,adjacent to the space is the Urban Cellars Bar. Our server is cheerful and informative, if you were visiting from out-of-town she could make great suggestions of things to see and do while in the city–a great asset to the hotel. The menu is creative, a nice variety of ingredients, we quickly decide and place our order. First to arrive is the salad; tender spinach leaves are tossed in house made dressing along with goat cheese, bacon, julienne apples and poached pears. The presentation is gorgeous, piled attractively on a rectangular plate that reminds me of slate. The veggie sandwich is a spinach wrap stuffed with sautéed vegetables then grilled, the flavors are melded together perfectly. Both items were delicious and reasonably priced, portion sizes are good too. When we are finished we walk through the lobby area; very attractive in white, long fringe type curtains divide the spaces, a cool circular inset in the ceiling has an iridescent finish, very modern, striking. The hotel is already sold out for the Auto Show in January!

Tags: Detroit, Detroit Public Library, DIA, Ferry St, Historic Homes, Motor City, Preservation Detroit, The Pontchartrain Hotel, Tour Detroit, Travel, Woodward Ave

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Categories Visit

Flint: Cool Old Stuff…

22 Sep

Summer has come to a close, vintage cars are being tucked away for the winter in garages, barns and storage units. We wanted to give you one last look at these mechanical beauties with a rewind back to August; Flint’s 9th Annual Back To The Bricks. Held in downtown Flint on the bricked streets of South Saginaw, Martin Luther King Jr Blvd, King Ave and the surrounding blocks, this five-day celebration of the automobile draws thousands of visitors each year. Known as “vehicle city”, Flint is the birthplace of General Motors. Earlier in the day a statue of GM founder William C Durant was unveiled, he is responsible for much of Flint’s automotive history. His statue is rightfully located in Statue Plaza alongside fellow icons Louis Chevrolet and David Buick.

We begin in the heart of the activities, S Saginaw Street, vintage cars line both sides of the strip as far as one can see; street rods, rat rods, muscle cars and customs. Paint colors vary from creamy whites to bright orange metalflake, pinstripes, side pipes, hood scoops and chrome bumpers all make an appearance. Cars are lowered, chopped and tricked out under the hood, chrome is everywhere; moldings, grills and bumpers. The sun is directly overhead in the flawless blue sky reflecting off of hoods the size of a Smart car. We roam street to street, the 70’s are alive and well represented by custom vans and Trans Ams. A large group of Buicks are parked on Water street for the 110th anniversary of the brand. Over on King St a Corvette reunion is being held, hundreds of Corvette models span the 60 year history, the crowd is thick, everyone is taking photos. Dragsters, trucks, even the old family station wagon is now cool; everybody has a memory or a story about an old car.

We find ourselves on Second Street, directly in front of us the stunning marquis of the historic Capitol Theatre, wait, the door is open, people are milling about inside, what are we waiting for, let’s go in! Our love of architecture has led us to some pretty amazing buildings through the years, exteriors can be deceiving, you never know what you’ll find inside.The Capitol Theatre opened in 1928 as part of the W S Butterfield chain of theaters. The exterior is 15th century Hispano-Italian style, or so they say. All I know is, it is a gorgeous blend of brick and white terracotta, the vintage red and yellow marquis studded with hundreds of tiny white light bulbs and a double-sided blue vertical sign spelling out Capitol in white letters. My understanding is the current owner inherited the building when his father passed away, over the past few years a great deal of money has been spent and restoring and refurbishing this grand lady. Proceeding directly to the auditorium we look around in awe; the theater is the old atmospheric style, this one mimics a Roman courtyard. Ethereal blue LED lighting creates a glowing night sky, standing on the stage looking out we take in the room; arches line the sidewalls and are brightly lit, door frames and columns are at balcony level. Backstage a wall is thick with handles and levers for controlling lights and rigging, we follow a series of hallways and then descend a set of stairs. The basement is huge, an old sign off to one side leads us to believe there used to be a bowling alley on this level, we meet some local folks who confirm it. We meander from space to space, down hallways and past rooms that house the original theatre seats, signs and old equipment. Back up the stairs and through the auditorium again, we make our way to the balcony.

Up the stairway we pause at the landing to have a look, the restoration has been completed in this area and it is elegant, opulent. Walls are textured plaster, a beautiful medallion pattern is painted gold with deep blue and red. Above us is a vaulted ceiling, a rope pattern shimmers in gold, antique light fixtures dangle from gold chains, dark wood trim surrounds walls and doorways, a large photo of the original interior rests on an easel. Walking to the front of the balcony we have a perfect, dazzling overview of the theater, the stage framed out in Roman-style architecture, the sidewalls resembling a city; it is still a work-in-progress. I overhear people talking as they look around, some share memories of when they used to come here to see movies, others, like us, are seeing the building for the first time; all are excited and looking forward to the time when we can come back and see it completed.

One of our favorite lunch spots in Flint is Hoffman’s Deco Deli and Cafe, lucky for us Garland St is just a short walk away. Inside we get a reprieve from the heat of the day, though the patio is inviting, the air conditioning feels too good to pass up. We place our order at the counter then have a seat window-side at a high-top table. Sipping on ice-cold diet cokes, our food arrives without delay; the BBQ Chicken salad is piled high with greens, peppers, bacon and chunks of chicken breast, BBQ sauce is the dressing. We opt for the Super Veggie sandwich on nutty multigrain bread (Breads come from Fenton’s Crust bakery), the sandwich is cool, the veggies crisp, feta cheese adds a saltiness, the seasoning makes it a home run. Lunch was delicious, time to get back into the thick of things.

Back through the brick streets of town we make our way toward our car, Kris points out a beautiful church on Saginaw street and notices it is open to visitors. St Paul’s Episcopal Church was completed in August of 1873, much of the church remains the same today as it did 140 years ago. The church has a familiar look and feel to me, I learn the architect was Gordon W Lloyd who also designed The Whitney, Wright Kay building, Christ Church Detroit and the Central United Methodist Church in Detroit, ok, now I know why. Passing by the large oak exterior doors we find ourselves in a lovely Gothic Revival space; walls are painted a rich gold, dark wood beams frame the ceiling and walls, extraordinary chandeliers hang from long chains. Light pours in through a series of stained glass windows, most are memorials donated or given to the church in honor of select parishoners; one titled Easter Morning was made by Louis Comfort Tiffany in his New York studio. In customary English tradition choir stalls face one another, the high altar is carved istrain marble from Italy, a mosaic of The Last Supper came from Venice, wainscoting and wood carvings were done in Grand Rapids MI. I cannot leave out the decorative floor tiles in the chancel, they are Flint’s own Faience Tiles and they are just wonderful. The church provides informative brochures on the building, one is a guided walking tour of the building, the other concentrates solely on the windows, after briefly looking them over I realize many of the church’s most special and noteworthy belongings were donated by members of the church.

At one time Flint was an industrial powerhouse, men who lived here made their fortunes in lumber, railroads and of course automobiles, they employed thousands. The vehicles produced put the world on wheels, allowing individuals personal modes of transportation that took us to the local market or across the country. Many are considered works of art by enthusiasts, they capture their time period perfectly, which I think is the reason Americans love the automobile. In turn, these men, their families, gave back to their community, spending their fortunes creating foundations, museums, purchasing art, paying for the construction of amazing churches and buildings. Today their legacy still stands and is there for all of us to enjoy.

Tags: Back to the Bricks, Buick, Capitol Theatre, Corvettes, Detroit Blog, Flint, General Motors, Gordon W Lloyd, St Paul's Episcopal Church, Travel, Vehicle City, Willaim C Durant

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Categories Visit

Roadtrip: London, Ontario

16 Sep

London, Ontario, with a population of over 366,000 people, this cosmopolitan city resides about halfway between Detroit and Toronto, at the forks of the Thames River. Home to Fanshawe College, the University of Western Ontario (referred to now as simply “Western”), and the place where Labatt and Carling Breweries were founded, this city has much to offer visitors; did I mention Butter Tarts? It is our last day in town; our suitcases are packed, we leave Idlewyld Inn, where we have spent the last two nights and drive over to the cool Wortley Village neighborhood for a quick breakfast. Fond of the Black Walnut Bakery Cafe on Wortley Rd, we dash in for coffee and pastries, eat them outside at a small cafe table then drive over to Dundas St in the Old East Village.

I love cities; while the downtown areas may be the center of activity, it’s the neighborhoods that tell the true story of the people who call it home. When we travel we are always sure to visit neighboring districts, here we discover the real flavor and personality of the town. We find ourselves in the Old East Village, a little rough around the edges, this a a compact walkable neighborhood. The commercial corridor remains intact and new businesses are beginning to sprout up in this section of Dundas Street. Part of the reason for the current gentrification is the Western Fair Farmers and Artisans Market. Located in the historic Confederation Building, the market is home to over 100 vendors spread out over two floors. Today is Saturday, market day, the place is buzzing with activity! Inside we are greeted by the combined scent of fresh ground coffee, baked goods and fresh produce. Aisles are cramped with locals doing their weekly shopping, vendors meander through the crowds handing out samples; this is more than just a market, it is the social center of town. Recently the market has become a business incubator, some folks who set up shop here have experienced enough success to add a brick and mortar location in the village. Wandering through we pass merchants selling meats, produce and cheese, there’s baked goods, coffee and chocolates, we like to taste as we go.

We come across a space that is lined with people, I try to wedge my way over to the display case to see what all the fuss is about, I finally get a glimpse: Butter Tarts!! If you are not familiar with Butter Tarts, you don’t know what you’re missing; the quintessential pastry of Canada, namely Ontario, it is a small, delicate pastry shell with a filling of butter, sugar and eggs, baked to a perfect golden brown. I know, it sounds so simple, so mundane, but believe me, it is anything but! Everywhere we have driven the last three days we have seen signs advertising these delicacies; local shops, bakeries, we even passed a house on a main road with a homemade sign out front that read “Chocolate Dipped Butter Tarts”. I have seen nothing like this particular booth, they sell the most amazing varieties; raisin, almond, coconut, there’s chocolate, raspberry and even a “smartie”. With such a long line we decide to head upstairs instead to the Artisan’s Market; photography, paintings and other handcrafts fill the large space. One wall is covered with whimsical birdhouses, a booth with vintage furnishings grabs our attention, beautiful wood chests and hand-made rocking horses fill another stall. Further on a dealer sells handcrafted benches that look like they belong in an enchanted forest.

We move on to the business district of the village; our first stop is the Artisan Bakery on Dundas. The charming brick building is bustling with customers, the aroma of fresh-baked bread fills the air, on top of the counter butter tarts are stacked three high, we order ours to go! Barely outside we take a bite of the pastry, tender crust, a soft sweet filling, it is the epitome of deliciousness! A door or two over is a cheese shop, the wall behind the counter covered in black chalkboard paint lists a variety of cheeses made with sheep, goat or cow’s milk. I try a piece of a Canadian cheese, it’s so good I order a chunk to go. Realizing we are starving we set out to find a place for lunch; we don’t have to look far, Unique Food Attitudes is just up the road. Attracted by its modern looking exterior and hanging ball lights, we never would have pegged it for a Polish restaurant! We are seated by the window, our waitress is actually the owner, she tells us the specials of the day, by her accent it is clear she is from Poland. On her recommendation we ordered several different dish combinations; goulash served over a potato pancake, pierogi, krokiety, red cabbage and cucumber salads. The food is outstanding, everything is made from scratch daily. If you like Polish food, be sure and look this place up.

Museum London is located downtown at the fork of the Thames River, housing London’s art collection and its historical museum, visiting is a nice way to become a little more acquainted with the city. Constructed in the early 1980’s the building itself is made of glass and steel, inside the ceiling and walls are bright white, the rear of the building overlooks Harrison Park and the river. Today a wedding is being held inside the museum, they are also between exhibits, restricting us to only a small portion of the collections. The art is both Canadian and regional, much of it modern and pleasing to us. The historical section houses 45,000 artifacts detailing the culture and history of London. Our visit is shorter than expected so we exit through the back and take a stroll through the park. It is a delightful summer day, families gather in the park, joggers and cyclists fill the pathways, children cool themselves in the splash pad. Across the river bank the Blackburn Memorial Fountain shoots long streams of water into the river below, restored historic buildings rest on the nearby bluff, in the distance office towers rise above the museum.

It occurs to us we are only a couple of blocks from the downtown market, never ones to pass up gourmet food, we are so there. Since 1999 the Covent Garden Market has been providing Londoners with organic produce, meat, fish and baked goods, along with restaurants that range from fine dining to carry-out. Entering we are greeted by bouquets of cut flowers, the market is named after a flower, fruit and vegetable market in London England. Canadian flags hang from the metal rafters, local farmers fill their spaces with ripe red tomatoes, freshly picked apples and anything else that is in season. We stroll the narrow aisles past coffee roasters and a glass case filled with French macaroons colored pink, yellow, teal and purple. A chocolatier invites us to taste his dark chocolate, he dips a wooden skewer into the pot of warm liquid chocolate–it is divine. We cover both floors encountering artwork, ice cream, handmade clothing and sushi. The time has come to head back to the US. We have had a wonderful time in Canada and promise ourselves we’ll come back soon!

About an hour west of London we make one last stop at the Rock Glen Conservation area. This 10 hectare park is best known for two things; Rock Glen Falls and FOSSILS! There is even a little museum onsite, it closed just as we arrive….. We begin following a trail that leads us to a wooden stairway, we can already hear the rush of water from the falls, soon they come into view, at 10.7 metres (that’s about 35 feet to you and me) high, it is a stunning sight. Back up the stairs, we then follow a dirt trail that runs along the roadway, it leads us to another stairway in the woods. The conservation area is located in a transition zone, the Carolinian Forest Zone is to the south and the Great Lakes-St Lawrence Zone to the north, what that means is they have an amazing diversity of species from both zones; Sycamore, Black Walnut, and Tulip trees grow right alongside Sugar Maples, Beech and White Elm. Our walk through the forest is peaceful, the temperature is at least a few degrees cooler thanks to all of the trees. Ahead the stairway leads straight down, at the bottom a bridge leads across the shallow riverbed. It is here we pause to look for fossils, we walk a short distance into the woods, digging is not permitted, we see things that resemble fossils, but do not find any. Back on the bridge several samples lay out on the wood; brachiopods, crinoids and corals, they are all examples of extinct sea creatures that lived 350 million years ago–wow! This area is known worldwide for the Devonian era fossil deposits found here. They have done a great job providing trails, stairways and bridges that provide picturesque views of the area. Crossing the riverbed we are led back up to the top of the gorge and back to the parking lot, it is getting late and we still have a ferry to catch back to the US. It has been a wonderful few days in Ontario, we’ve had the pleasure of delicious food, friendly people, charming places and beautiful scenery–thanks Canada!

Tags: Butter Tart, Covent Garden Market, Detroit Blog, Fossils, London Ontario, Old East Village, Ontario Farmers Markets, Rock Glen Conservation Area, Thames River, Travel, Western Fair District

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Categories Road Trips, Visit

Roadtrip: Stratford, Ontario

9 Sep

We are up early, after a quick stop at a local bakery for croissants, oj and coffee we are back on the road. In under an hour we arrive in Stratford, Ontario; you probably think of Stratford as the home of the Shakespeare Festival, which, of course, it is, but this lovely little town has more to offer than just theatre. The townsite and river are named after Stratford-upon-Avon in England. The Grand Trunk railway arrived in 1856 with the Buffalo and Lake Huron Line, in the 19th century it had become a Canadian railway hub and a center of furniture manufacturing. The architecture is distinctly Victorian, gorgeous brick buildings line the streets, gardens are found throughout the city, it is an arts, culture and culinary hub. Unfortunately it has started to rain, but that will not deter us from enjoying our visit.

The length of the river through town has been designed as a park, complete with walking trails and benches; fountains spout sprays of water skyward, lovely homes rest along the opposite bank of the river. We begin our walk along the shore, mature trees shelter us from the heavy rain that has begun to fall, a lone pontoon braves the weather. Walking on, swans have come ashore, there are several adults and multiple youngsters. Mallards are everywhere, a park employee has arrived on the scene to feed the ducks, she tosses handfuls of food into the surrounding grass, it is a lunchtime free-for-all. Out in the water a trio of empty gondolas wait patiently for the weather to improve. Looking out, the grounds are lush in varying shades of green, every so often we come upon a bridge spanning the river; made of wood, concrete or brick, each is distinct and special in design. In the distance the turret of a castle-like building peeks over the tree tops, the weather cannot make up its mind if it wants to rain or get sunny.

After walking both sides of the river we make our way downtown to Ontario street, lunchtime has arrived and Pazzo Taverna looks inviting. The cellar of the restaurant serves pizza and pasta, perfect! It feels good to be out of the rain, the contemporary interior feels cozy. Deciding on a pizza and antipasti plate, we sit back and relax as we wait for lunch to arrive. First out is a fabulous focaccia bread served with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, it is hard not to eat it all. Next to arrive is the antipasti plate, a marvelous assortment of thin-sliced meats, olives, cheeses and roasted red peppers, everything is delicious. The thin crust pizza is excellent…..we finish absolutely everything! This can only mean one thing…..we need to do more walking.

Outside we are happy to see the rain has stopped, we can put our umbrellas away. The buildings of downtown Stratford have remained in-tact, they are filled with galleries, cafes, home goods and clothing stores and specialty businesses. There is at least one bank on every block–handy if you need to exchange money. Inside a doorway a sputnik light fixture catches our eye, turns out it is a coffee shop; funky decor, fresh baked goods and iced coffee, it’s our kind of place. After browsing the shops we walk the opposite way along the river to the Shakespeare Garden, pathways lead us beside a fragrant Rose garden. Designed by landscape architect H B Dunnington Grubb, the garden opened in 1936; at that time it was filled with plants mentioned in Shakespear’s plays. Today manicured hedges surround beds of annuals, a wonderful mix of perennials give the garden a different look throughout the summer months, a bronze bust of William Shakespear was installed in 1949. The sky has turned a brilliant azure, what a difference a couple of hours makes! We re-trace some of our steps so Kris can take some photos. In surrounding neighborhoods brick Victorian homes are prevalent, many the yellow color found so often in Ontario; well manicured and decorated with lots of wood details, I encourage you to stroll along at least one residential street while you’re here.

Back in London we freshen up then head out for dinner. Wortley Village is only a few blocks away from our Inn, inhabited by independent shops and restaurants, we saw several places that looked enticing. Gusto Food and Wine Bar is open late and offers patio seating, just what we are looking for. In addition to entrees and salads the menu features a series of small plates; after reading over the selections and asking our waitress for suggestions, we place our order. The stuffed risotto balls are served with a sambuca pomodoro sauce, a fantastic dish, much larger than expected. The Flat iron steak tacos are tender and flavorful, last to make an appearance are the chips and dip; jalapeno crab dip, walnut goat cheese artichoke dip and Texas caviar (salsa) served with crostini and root vegetable chips, it is all delicious and way too much for just two people! The food and service were outstanding, definitely a place we’ll come back to.

We are staying in the “old south” historic district of London, Ontario, at Idlewyld Inn. Built in 1878 as a private residence for Charles Smith Hyman, the (wealthy) mayor of London, it has gone from a family home to luxury apartments, a nursing home, a bed and breakfast and finally a historic boutique hotel. Visiting the Inn is like going back in time, designed in Victorian style, the interior is elegant, grand, luxurious. Floral print carpets cover the floors, antique fixtures glow with soft light, ornately carved wood is deeply colored and varnished to a high shine; it covers walls and surrounds the fireplace in the parlor. Ceilings are high, period furniture fills the public areas. The original dining room as been turned into a sophisticated restaurant that is open to the public; serving locally produced meat, vegetables, fruit and herbs, their extensive wine list offers the perfect vintage to go with every dish. Idlewyld is home to 23 unique, well appointed guest rooms, we are staying on the third floor. The hotel has maintained it’s Victorian charm while at the same time offering modern conveniences such as Wi-Fi , Jacuzzi tubs and an elevator. We have had a full day, time to get some sleep.

Tags: Detroit Blog, Flickr, Gusto Food & Wine, Idlewyld Inn, London Ontario, Ontario, Pazzo, Shakespeare, Stratford, Travel Canada, Wortley Village

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Categories Road Trips, Visit

DETROIT: Pewabic Pottery

27 Aug

It is a lovely summer day, we have just arrived at Pewabic Pottery on Jefferson for the annual Home and Garden Show. A large tent occupies the paved parking lot, outdoors, large pieces are displayed among groupings of patio furniture, smaller pieces can be found in flower beds and along walkways. Inside the white tent, a banner hangs, this is Pewabic’s 110th Anniversary; tables are draped in turquoise blue cloths, topiary’s act as centerpieces, signature Pewabic pieces and t-shirts are available for purchase. Artist’s tables line the enclosed space, we start from the back and work our way forward. Tiles are a popular item, one table features flowers such as Tulips, Daisies and Poppies, another table is lined with clay pieces shaped like Ginko leaves, the glaze is fabulous, going from milky to metallic. Motawi Tileworks has a fanciful selection of Arts and Crafts style pieces, I like the one with the bunny. Further on, plates, nesting bowls, vases and cups feel free-form, glazed in turquoise, yellow and peach, they make me want to buy all new dishware. A tall tile reflects an up north scene, complete with a Pine tree, sand dunes and a lake in the distance. The next factory tour is about to begin, time to go inside.

Pewabic Pottery was founded in 1903 by Mary Chase Perry Stratton, this Tudor revival style building was built in 1907 to house the factory. Pewabic is known for its vessels, tiles and architectural ornamentation for both public and private installations, Mary is known for her unique iridescent glaze. Pewabic pottery can be found throughout the United States including pieces in Washington DC, Houston, New York and the Nebraska State Capitol. The building itself is a National Historic Landmark. Let’s go in. We start at the museum store, here tiles and vesselware handcrafted by Pewabic staff members are available for sale. I see many signature pieces such as vases and tiles in colors such as blue, olive and gold. The next area belongs to the Gallery of Studio Artists, you will find a gorgeous variety of items such as mugs, vases and bowls in diverse finishes. The showroom contains tile collections, samples of tiles and glazes, this is where you would come if you were interested in having something done for your house. We climb a narrow stairway to the second floor, story boards and photos teach us the history of Pewabic Pottery and its founder Mary Chase Perry Stratton. We see an antique kiln and some of Mary’s early pieces, the room itself is quaint; leaded glass windows, black painted arches and door frames, and a stunning tile fireplace.

We proceed to the Kiln room, this is where the firing is done. Think of a kiln as a giant oven that heats up to about 2300 degrees F, it bakes the soft clay pieces called greenware into a hardened piece called bisque, bisque is then glazed (painted) and fired again, the end result, the beautiful items displayed in the store. On the right are two “car” kilns, our guide points out tracks on the floor, kilns are pulled out on these tracks to be opened. On the left is a fancy computerized version called an envelope kiln, I have to imagine it gets pretty hot in here when the kilns are on. Pewabic makes their own clay, in liquid form it is called slip. We walk through the clay making area, stopping to see the belt-driven equipment, original to the building and used by Mary herself. They make 1500 pounds of clay per week! Further on we enter the Glaze room, all glazes are made here, shelves are lined with five-gallon pails filled with different colors. Glazes are applied by spraying, dipping or hand painting; tiles are usually sprayed, while vessels are usually dipped. Rolling racks are filled with glazed pieces ready to go into the kiln, the colors are a mystery to me at this point, as they completely change and come to life in the firing process.

In the tile pressing area a woman is showing us how a tile is made, a square chunk of clay is placed in a plaster mold, working with her thumbs she presses the clay evenly into the mold. She picks up a different mold that has been sitting about a half hour and gently coaxes the tile out by tapping it on the table, an image of a bumblebee surrounded by a honeycomb pattern appears. When the clay is completely dry the piece is cleaned and placed on a rack, when enough pieces are ready they will be loaded into the kiln and fired. We end our tour upstairs with a visit to the Education studio, this is where classes and workshops are held. The room is lined with works-in-progress, students work at tables and benches, there is a small classroom area for children. There is no class today, but a few students are hard at work. Downstairs we pass through the store area once more, there are so many beautiful things to look at.

We decided to choose somewhere close to have lunch, Andrews On The Corner is just down the road on Jos Campau at Atwater. The temperature has gotten steamy, so we choose to eat indoors, our waitress greets us with menus and glasses of ice water. We glance at the selections; soups made from scratch, salads, burgers, fish and steak, it all sounds good. The room is on the dark side, in that dive bar sort of way, dark wood floors and wainscoting, walls are deep red, wood booths line the perimeter of the room, the bar is the centerpiece. The cabinet behind the bar is a handsome piece, in the center an art deco style mirror reflects the light, glass block flanks each side. Just like that, our food arrives; the grilled jerk chicken salad is plentiful, the chicken sits atop a bed of spinach, strawberries and feta cheese are sprinkled about, raspberry vinaigrette is served on the side. The chicken is cooked perfectly, the combination of flavors a winner. The Ground Round burger is also good, we shared both things, making for a nice light lunch.

The Atwater Brewery is just down the street on Jos Campau, housed in a 1919 factory warehouse the brewery itself was founded in 1997. In case you are not aware of it, Atwater has its own taproom right inside the brewery, who doesn’t like a cold beer on a hot day? We pull up a seat at the bar, after a brief description of what’s on tap, we make our decision, a Summer Time Ale for Kris and a half Vanilla Java Porter, half Decadent Dark Chocolate Ale for me. As we sip our beer we look around the brewery space, the main brewing equipment is Kasper Schultz brought in from Germany, malt and hops for lagers are from Germany, while American hops are used in specialty ales. Kegs are shrink-wrapped to pallets and stacked high, bottles of beer are packed by hand into cardboard boxes, long communal tables made of planks are set off to the side. I love the names of the beer: Grand Circus IPA, Purple Gang Pilsner, Detroit Pale Ale, and the ever popular Dirty Blonde. Before we know it our glasses are empty, for a mere dollar you can take the glass home. If you are looking for an out-of-the way spot to chill and you like beer, visit the Atwater Tap Room.

Tags: Andrews On The Corner, Arts & Crafts, Detroit Blog, Flickr, Iridescent Glaze, Mary Chase Perry Stratton, Pewabic Pottery, visit detroit

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Categories Eat, Visit

Roadtrip: Vintage Columbus

12 Aug

It is our last day in Columbus, we have spent the last two nights at the Short North Bed & Breakfast. Located in the trendy Short North district, this large Victorian home is in the midst of a thriving neighborhood; homes are red brick and date back to the early 20th century, High Street is home to galleries, specialty boutiques and tons of restaurants. I finish packing as the tantalizing scent of bacon climbs the staircase, in the breakfast room Trelene has prepared a feast! Glass bowls hold chunks of fresh fruit on an antique buffet, fresh brewed coffee is calling my name, morning sunlight floods the room and sparkles off the crystal chandeliers. Trelene arrives with plates of scrambled eggs, crispy bacon and buttered English muffins, there’s a homemade salsa on the table, it has just the right amount of spice and heat and tastes delicious on my eggs. When we are finished Kris loads the car, I thank our hostess and bid her farewell.

Columbus never stands still, as often as we get here there is always something new to see. The city resides along the banks of the Scioto River and has been hard at work reconnecting downtown to the riverfront; the result is called the Scioto Mile. There are 145 acres of parkland stretching from the Arena District to the Whittier Peninsula; bikeways, pedestrian paths and boulevards make this area extremely people friendly. The Promenade leads us along the river, pavers make up the walkways, the 1920’s limestone floodwall was restored to its original Beaux Arts splendor, cafe tabletops are complete with inlaid chess/checkerboards. A stone colonnade lines Civic Center Drive, this morning the swings are all occupied, huge stone planter boxes are overflowing with hot pink Hibiscus, orange Canna’s, purple Petunias and trailing vines. Every so many feet we encounter low fountains; a marble pedestal supports a lovely arrangement of bronze leaves, in the center, clusters of fish spout water from their mouths, the sound of trickling water, soothing. Our walk continues to Bicentennial Park; home to the fabulous looking restaurant Milestone 229, rose gardens, climbing wall and an amphitheater, the main attraction is definitely the Scioto Mile Fountain.

As human beings, I think we are naturally drawn to water, fountains are often centerpieces, gathering spots in urban areas, this is definitely true of the Scioto Mile Fountain. This 200 ft long, 15,000 sq ft patio-splash park-public art piece-interactive fountain is the place to be. As we approach, the main source of water is coming from a stainless steel circular blossom; jets of water shoot skyward from the center, a smaller volume of water flows from the outer ring. Gradually ground level spray nozzles come to life, as does the sound of laughter, five tall stainless steel halo structures begin to throw mist from the top ring, water begins to accumulate under our feet. We watch as young and old try to figure out the sequence of the jets, passersby pause to take in the scene, diners at Milestone 229 have a perfect view. We walk to the end of the park, actually stop and smell the roses, then it’s back to the car.

Columbus is home to some of the best vintage stores we’ve ever come across; it’s a big part of what keeps bringing us back. Years ago we discovered one of the best stores ever in Cleveland called Flower Child; a couple of years ago they opened a second location here in Columbus, c’mon, let’s have a look! The moment I step inside I smile, this place has everything from vintage jewelry and lava lamps to art glass and tiki bars. Unlike the average antique shop, here you find the colorful, zany, Mod and sometimes wacky items from the 1950’s through the 1970’s. They do a fantastic job with their displays; instead of the usual shop where one large space is divided into dozens of small dealer spaces, they arrange it as a furniture or department store would; complete living rooms, dining rooms and bar sets, everything you need to complete your room organized into one setting. The selection of pieces is outstanding, they even make gold, avocado green and orange look tasteful and fun! I haven’t seen a grouping yet that I wouldn’t take home…. Kris and I love the chrome and lucite table and chairs, the bamboo patio set complete with a bar and cocktail glasses is cool too, the colored glass is striking, look at all the hanging lamps! Having grown up around much of the stuff seen here, our affection runs deep. Once we have finished looking around both floors we decide to grab some lunch.

Conveniently, we walk across High Street for our afternoon meal at Zen Cha Tea Salon, another of our regular stops when in Columbus. Inside, the space feels tranquil, tables and floors are pale wood, a flat screen TV on the back wall projects soothing images of nature. As we sit and unwind we sip our Spring iced tea, a wonderful combination of sweetened green tea, strawberries and blueberries, so good. Our meal arrives, today we are having the Miso Ramen soup with tofu, very flavorful, and the Ginger Beef Salad. Thinly sliced medium rare beef lies atop crunchy greens, drizzled with a tangy ginger dressing-delicious! Now that our stomachs are pacified, it is time to start heading north.

As we head out of the city we make a stop at Columbus Architectural Salvage on Clara St. The 10,000 sq ft warehouse houses both interior and exterior pieces salvaged from homes and buildings that were to be torn down. When I see such magnificent pieces such as fireplace surrounds, mirrors, doors and amazing light fixtures, I can only imagine what the buildings they came out of must have been like; I am sad to see such fine examples of architecture disappear, but glad that the materials are being reused and recycled. Everything is very well organized, you can buy antique doorknobs made from glass, porcelain or brass, hardware is neatly contained in a series of drawers. A complete bowling lane rests on the floor, peg boards hold a variety of tools and accessories. Vintage bathroom sinks in pink, mint green and white rest on pedestals, a box of large film reels sits near a group of old theater seats, street signs and concrete urns await a new purpose.

We continue up High Street into Clintonville, this neighborhood has a few more vintage stores we want to check out; first on our list is the Eclectiques Antique Mall. The building itself is 8,000 sq ft and has 37 dealers, from jewelry to postcards, you never know what you may find here. We get lucky and find a piece we have been looking for, one of those fake electric log sets that light up when plugged in, perfect for our 60’s free-standing fireplace. The basement is our favorite, this is where most of the mid-century furniture is found; bar stools with chrome legs, kidney-shaped coffee tables and chairs upholstered in frisee, it’s all so cool! We pay for our purchase, put the log in the trunk, then walk next door.

Euro Classics Antiques is not your average antique shop, the 4,000 sq ft showroom displays gorgeous oak furniture from the 1820’s to the 1920’s, specializing in Arts and Crafts furnishings. The wood is stained dark, bookshelves are fitted with leaded glass doors, tables and chairs are stylish and sturdy. Down the stairs, the lower level has pieces from as late as the 1960’s, Kris is tempted by a bedroom set, unfortunately our SRT-4 is not the type vehicle one would haul furniture in…..The Boomerang Room is right across the street, as the name implies, the store concentrates on fabulous mid-century items. Gorgeous pieces from Broyhill, Lane, Knoll, McCobb and Herman Miller fill the shop. Shag throw rugs cover the floor, I see that the darker wood of the late 60’s and 70’s is now in vogue. I see sets of cocktail shakers, oversize lamps, modern art sculptures, and vases; I wish I could take all of it home! Speaking of home….Our visit to Columbus has been wonderful, now we are buckled in, on our way back to the D.

Tags: Architectural Salvage, Boomerang Room, Columbus Antiques, Columbus Bed & Breakfast, Flickr, Flower Child, Scioto River, Short North, Vintage Columbus, Zen Cha

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Categories Road Trips, Visit

Roadtrip: Historical Columbus, Ohio

6 Aug

Morning has arrived, our list of activities is long; we dress, eat a delicious breakfast and head out the door. We drive directly over to The Ohio Statehouse located downtown on High Street, this Greek Revival building was completed in 1861 and has served as Ohio’s Capitol building ever since. State flags of Ohio wave atop flagpoles that line the walkways, large urns are crowded with tall grasses and annuals in bloom, the white limestone building looms ahead, a fountain trickles nearby, the scene is picturesque. The mercury is rising quickly, the air-conditioned interior provides immediate comfort. Our visit begins at the Statehouse Museum, the area is large; constructed of block and mortar the series of arches create a tunnel-like feeling; the arches themselves function to support the weight of the rotunda. Displays are made up of artifacts and images that tell us the history of the building and those responsible for its design and construction, along with those who have served here.

Up the stairs we enter the Rotunda; the dome rises 120 feet above the marble floor, a single skylight bearing the Great Seal of the State of Ohio is lit up by the sun. There’s so much to take in, my eyes are transfixed by the pastel colored dome for the first few minutes. My gaze travels downward, walls are peach-colored, elaborate brass sconces resemble leaves, light glows from glass shades. Giant oil paintings grace the walls, each representing an important piece of the state’s history. Woodwork is minimal, stained dark and quite lovely. Huge stone archways lead to other sections of the building. The floor itself is a work of art, comprised of 4,957 pieces of marble, the starburst pattern in the center is the real attention-getter; there are 32 points, one for each state in the Union at the time the floor was laid. We amble the hallways, stopping in at rooms and galleries that pay tribute to Ohio’s early legislators; spaces are filled with antique portraits and period furnishings.

Voices lead us to the House Chamber. We strain to peek in windows, a fellow tourist points out a tiny elevator to the side gallery, we board without hesitation, the elevator comes to a stop and Kris slides the door open….Wow! From the rear balcony we have an outstanding view of the entire room; colors are muted and light. Architecturally, the room differs from the rest of the building; it is elaborate, ornate, decadent in style. The ceiling is coffered, leaves cast in plaster are three-dimensional, Corinthian columns are rich in detail, lavish chandeliers of brass, wrought iron and frosted glass hang like pendants from the ceiling. Desks date back to 1909 and reside in a semi-circle on rich floral carpet, Abraham Lincoln spoke here in 1861. We move about the room taking it in from all angles.

The atrium, built in 1993, connects the original Statehouse to the Senate building, here giant sconces that once weathered the elements show great patina. We step inside the building and are face to face with the Grand Stair Hall, the double marble staircases are stunning, the ceiling, spectacular. This structure was built in 1901 as the judiciary annex, today all Senate offices are located here. For the next few minutes my feet will not move, the wall ahead a series of stacked arches, my stare finally settles on the muraled ceiling, I tip my head back studying the scenes; art, justice, agriculture and manufacturing are all represented, again a single skylight illuminates the space. Kris is busy snapping photos, I call out to him several times asking if he took a picture of this and that, he assures me he did. We ascend the grand staircase, the area is dimly lit by elegant fixtures, doors are locked but a few windows allow us access. After investigating fully, we leave the building and drive to our next destination.

North of downtown the Ohio History Center Museum and Ohio Village give visitors a glimpse into Ohio’s past. No matter where we travel I like to visit the local history museum, it provides a wonderful connection to the people and community. The building itself has a 1970’s feel about it, large open spaces, lots of concrete and windows, kind of funky. We take the stairs to the plaza level, here we find the permanent White Castle exhibit, yes folks, White Castle began right here in Columbus Ohio in 1921! Glass cabinets display photos of employees in uniform, advertisements, and the famous cardboard cartons those irresistible, little steamed burgers are served in. Just looking at all that memorabilia makes us hungry. Back on the main level we roam from room to room, beginning in ancient Ohio, traversing centuries to the recent past. Follow The Flag shares stories of the Ohioans who carried battle flags, with actual Civil War battle flags. Centuries of Change takes us from agriculture to the auto industry, we sit in an old wooden trolley and look back at early household items such as furniture, toasters, tv’s and vacuums.

Just outside the museum doors Ohio Village awaits us; a recreation of a 19th century Ohio village, docents are dressed in period costume and show us what life was like in the 1800’s. Most buildings are made of wood and are simple in style; the furniture maker is also the undertaker, the owner of the general store welcomes us and tells us about the goings-on in town. The dressmakers shop has a lovely selection of material and hats. Homes and hotels are modest, we smiled at the print shop, letterpress has come full circle and is back in vogue. The gravel pathways take us past the school house, church and bank, leading us back to the museum. Time to catch a quick lunch in town then back to the bed and breakfast to freshen up.

Summer is travel time for the Detroit Derby Girls, we make it a point to catch one out-of-state bout each season, tonight we are cheering on our home team as they take on the Ohio Roller Girls. The bout is taking place at the Ohio Expo Center at the fairgrounds, the round building is retro-cool, red lantern-type lights are scattered about the ceiling, walls are made of glass. We are relieved to find 2 open front-row seats, decked out in DDG t-shirts we are definitely in the minority. In the first bout Ohio’s Gang Green plays our Motor City Disassembly Line, sadly, our team did not fare well. The second bout started out much better, in the first half it looked as if Detroit’s Fatal Femme, Racer Mc Chaser, Roxanna Hardplace and Ghetto Barbie would be victors over Ohio’s Pearl Rogi, Kill Basa, Burnadeath and Texas Chainsaw Sasskicker. Alas, the second half did not go as well, Ohio pulled away and claimed the victory- ouch!

We are having dinner at Shoku in Grandview,another charming Columbus district. Just a few short blocks long, it is home to independent shops, a theater and local sidewalk cafes. It is a perfect summer evening, the temperature has dipped slightly, making it ideal for patio dining. This is one of our go-to restaurants when in Columbus, we don’t need a menu to decide, Fire pot chicken and a couple of sushi rolls. Our selections arrive at the same time, the firepot chicken is lightly breaded, vegetables are crisp, smothered in a light spicy sauce it is delicious, the sushi is fresh and tasty. We linger at our table long enough for our food to settle and make room for dessert; Jeni’s Splendid Ice ream is right across the street…….

No visit to Columbus is complete without Jeni’s Ice Cream! The sidewalk up and down the street is crowded with folks indulging in tasty flavors such as Whiskey & Pecan, Riesling Poached Pear, Queen City Cayenne or Kris’s favorite, Brambleberry Crisp. The narrow shop is buzzing with activity, servers are busy answering questions and handing out samples, the line moves quickly. A smile appears on Kris’s face as his waffle cone is handed to him over the counter, I wait patiently as my Black & Tan sundae is prepared, Salted Caramel ice cream, dark chocolate hot fudge, hot caramel and a sprinkling of smoked almonds, love it! A sweet ending to a great day.

Tags: Columbus Ohio, Grandview, Historic Architecture Ohio, Ohio Capitol Building, Ohio History Center Museum, Ohio Rollergirls, Shoku, The Ohio Statehoiuse

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Categories Road Trips, Visit

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