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OAKLAND COUNTY: Backroads & More….

Not yet ready to relinquish all that is autumn we decided to enjoy a scenic drive on a mild November Sunday. We gassed up one of the vintage cars and headed to Rochester, then northwest on Orion Rd, a real beauty with its twists and turns. Our first stop was the Goodison Cider Mill; we parked on the side, the aroma of just fried donuts greeting us as we exited the car. The building sports a fresh coat of blue paint, windows are trimmed in white. Inside we are face to face with all of the standard cider mill offerings; bags of Michigan apples, jars of jam and apple butter, gallons of cider, and an entire glass case filled with donuts, oh, and the specialty of the house: pistachio bread. Kris and I only had one thing on our minds; cider and donuts. I can’t resist the plain old cake style donut, here the blueberry are Kris’s favorite; a glass of cider and we were set. We sat on a bench under the partly sunny sky and ate our goodies, then it was back in the car headed west.

Up the road slightly we hung a left on Clarkston Rd, the road covers rolling hills and passes several picturesque lakes; leaves are smoldering in large piles, they fill the air with their unmistakable scent. We arrive in downtown Clarkston, a charming village with quaint shops and fantastic restaurants (one of my favorite combinations). We park the car and walk down Main Street, we are heading up the hill to Clarkston Union. We arrive just before 3pm, brunch is ending, the dinner menu starts at 3, so we wait to order. The Lions are on TV, as 3:00 arrives the door continues to open as hungry patrons fill the seats. The building was originally a church, the stained glass window in the front floods the space in colored light, church pews provide ample seating. The menu is filled with really good, hearty dishes, they were known for their Mac & Cheese before it became trendy. We ordered a Plowshares plate and the Union Press of the day, so much good food and so delicious! The ingredients rotate for both selections; we were served salami, Roma tomatoes, red onion, white cheddar, carrot sticks, a baguette and fresh fruit on the Plowshares plate. I’m not exactly sure what was on the panini….roasted red peppers, maybe some artichokes, doesn’t matter, it was fantastic! We ate till we could eat no more.

Next door is Union General Cupcakery, you can see where I’m going with this… We stepped inside to find a quaint little shop, the centerpiece being, of course, the display case loaded with cupcakes, cookies and dessert bars. Antique furniture fills the room, bookshelves are packed tightly with cookbooks and kitchen do-dads. Unable to decide on a cupcake flavor I continued to walk around the shop; kitchen goods give way to a gift shop stacked with unique and funky goods. After browsing through books, smelling candles, and trying on jewelry I was ready to make my decision. Kris knows what he likes, so the caramel pecan bar caught his eye immediately, the carrot cake cupcake won me over with its tasty batter and heavenly cream cheese frosting. They also serve ice cream, coffee drinks and a variety of hot chocolates, so remember to save room. Barely able to move we walked slowly back to the car; this is definitely one of those towns worth the drive. Spend the day window shopping, have a great meal and check out the lovely homes.

Back in the car we made our way to White Lake Rd and continued west through the wooded landscape to Indian Springs Metropark. The Environmental Discovery Center has wonderful exhibits and a cool underwater pond viewing room, that’s where we started. We descend the stairs, the reflection from the water creating a pattern on the walls and floor, we come to the tunnel, we are surrounded on three sides by water, albeit cloudy, for a cool yet creepy effect. Above, a layer of sand and algae lay on the glass, we proceed further into the dome area; fish swim near the bottom, sunlight plays upon the water, we have the area to ourselves. I sit on the bench and look out across the pond, Kris snaps photos of fish as they swim past, it is an interesting perspective of pond life. Down a narrow hall, a series of windows grants us more views, pieces of wood appear to be fuzzy with the growth of underwater vegetation, some resemble sea monsters…… Back upstairs we follow the displays and learn about our surroundings; a giant cattail shoots up from a glass basin mimicking wetlands, an over-sized grasshopper clings to a stem as a giant frog leaps toward a lily pad. We step out onto the deck and gaze at the pond, this time from outdoors. We follow the gravel trail and stop to read the informative signs along the way, all the while keeping an eye open for rattlesnakes, seriously….at last circling the pond. Surrounded by beautiful backroads this 2,200 acre park has plenty to offer, give it a look.

Tags: Clarkston Union, Goodison Cider Mill, Indian Springs Metropark, Rochester, scenic oakland county, Village of Clarkston

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Categories Road Trips, Visit

Port Huron: Blue Water Roadtrip

5 Sep

With another scorching summer on hand, we often take refuge with a drive along Michigan’s beautiful blue waters. One of our favorite routes is to follow the shoreline from Lake St Clair to Port Huron via M-29; the turquoise blue water and lake breeze does wonders for both mind and body. In Port Huron the double span of the Blue Water bridge is picturesque as it crosses the St Clair river; the water turns a cobalt blue as it flows into Lake Huron, Canada awaits on the other side. We parked at the Thomas Edison Depot Museum located on Edison Parkway; in front of us the Thomas Edison River Walk stretches south from under the bridge to the USCG dock; a favorite spot for sight-seers, walkers and fishermen, it is always a bevy of activity. Today we were in search of a little history and some air conditioning; inside the museum we go!

Built in 1858 for Grand Trunk Railroad the tiny Fort Gratiot Depot is now home to the Thomas Edison Depot Museum. As you can clearly see, young Thomas made a great impression on the city during his boyhood years. The Edison family moved to the area from Ohio, that’s where his story begins. I think it’s cool that this is the actual structure where Thomas worked as a “news butcher”; beginning in 1859 the then 12-year old boy departed daily from this depot on the Port Huron to Detroit run. The young entrepreneur actually published the first newspaper to ever be printed on a moving train, the Grand Trunk Herald; his job was to sell newspapers and candy to train passengers, he was quite successful. There is not a lot of square footage for exhibits, but all look fresh, are done well and give visitors an opportunity to participate hands-on. The timeline continues into Edison’s adulthood and success as an inventor. A restored baggage car is just outside the museum, you are able to go inside and have a look at what Thomas’s printing shop and mobile chemistry lab would have looked like. The museum is really interesting, be sure and stop in.

We continued our drive south on the parkway to Pine Grove Park where the Huron Lightship Museum is embanked; definitely check this out! Built in 1920 she was launched simply as Lightship 103 of the United States Lighthouse Service. Back in the day, floating lighthouses were used in places where it was too deep or too costly to build an actual lighthouse. A light shone brightly at the top of a mast, ships also sounded fog signals when visibility was difficult. This was the last lightship afloat on the great lakes; it was retired from active service in 1970, enshrined at Grove Park in 1972 and in 1989 the Huron was designated a National Historic Landmark. It is an amazing opportunity to be able to climb aboard such a neat piece of history. We first wandered around the main level and got an idea of what it was like for the crew to live aboard; the galley is long and narrow, complete with stainless steel sinks and counters, a small dining area consists of a simple table and chairs, cots dangle from chains in the sleeping area…..not exactly roomy. We climbed down the ladder into the engine room; originally powered by a compound steam engine, in 1949 it was converted to diesel power using 2, 6 cyl. GM 6-71 engines. Get an up-close look at the gauges, tanks and over-sized components that made this ship run; hard hats and lanterns hang overhead; I can only imagine how loud it must have been down here. Back up the ladder, a turn, then up another stairway to the weather deck; here you get a complete panoramic view of the dazzling river, bridges and deep blue lake, Wow! Here you also have access to the pilot house, complete with its signature brass steering wheel and numerous gadgets. When we completed our tour it was time for lunch, we drove a little further south to the banks of the Black River to find some outdoor dining.

This area of downtown in particular seems to be thriving with new life; every time we come there seems to be a new restaurant or cafe. Quay Street Brewing Co. offers both indoor and outdoor dining on two levels with fantastic water views; we chose outdoor. There was a table available right along the river’s edge; we were on the upper deck, mounds of Wisteria vines hang off the side and create a roof over the patio level. As we started to look at the menu our attention was diverted by the rumbling sounds that can only be made by a powerboat; sure enough we had stumbled upon the 2nd Annual International Offshore Powerboat Races at Port Huron/Sarnia. That’s the advantage of living on the great lakes, it seems no matter where you go or what lake you are near you can always find yourself smack dab in the middle of some great event. Kris inspected the boats more closely as they traveled by on the Black River, going to and from Lake Huron, I studied the menu. First order of business at a brewery; choose a beer. I am very fond of dark beers, so it was an easy choice with the Black River Stout. Food was more difficult because everything looked good. We settled on the Muffuletta sandwich; a wonderful diced olive mixture topping a stack of salami, mortadella, capicollo and provolone on a roll. The Garden Salad was large; crunchy romaine and veggies with a unique lemon-mint vinaigrette, delicious and refreshing. We sat at our table under the shade of a bright yellow umbrella; the food was tasty, the beer, excellent and the boat race an unexpected pleasure. Yes, it’s good to live in Michigan!

A few local folks told us about a new ice cream shop in town, so we went over to have a look. I know I’ve said it before, but, Port Huron has a gorgeous downtown, the lovely Victorian style of a by-gone era still remains here. The Mackinac Island Creamery on Water St is located in one such building; beautiful red brick and fanciful trim painted in shades of green, looking as pretty as it did when it was new. Inside we discover its former life as a bank; along the back wall a safe serves as a reminder; incredibly fancy it even has a landscape painting as part of its decor. The ceiling is unusually stunning; an intricate wood design that carries down a cove. The shop serves, as you may have guessed, Mackinac Island Creamery brand of ice cream in 12 delicious flavors, they also sell Mackinac Island Trading Co. fudge and POHO popcorn. The flavors all sounded good, there is a different feature ice cream each month, the flavor for August was a creamy vanilla ice cream with rich cinnamon swirls throughout, like eating a decadent cinnamon roll, yum! The shop was busy with customers; a family stood by the map of the US placing a pin near their hometown in Pennsylvania. It’s good to see people discovering Port Huron and our beautiful Blue Water Area!

Tags: Blue Water Bridge, Detroit Blog, Flickr, Huron Lightship Museum, Lake Huron, Port Huron, Quay Street Brewing Co., Thomas Edison Depot Museum

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Categories Road Trips, Visit

UP NORTH: Old Mission Peninsula, can’t we just stay ……

25 Aug

We arose to the peace and quiet of the country, out the back window the cows were already grazing. After a quick breakfast ourselves, we were out the door; we had a full day ahead. Between the place we were staying and the place we were going, is a historic Traverse City landmark now known as The Village At Grand Traverse Commons. One of the largest historic preservation and mixed-use projects in the nation, it took a former mental health facility and turned it into a unique place to shop, eat and live; both cool and creepy at the same time. The size of the complex is daunting; Victorian-Italianate structures are expansive in size and number.We had very little time to investigate; we parked the car and did a quick walk through of one of the buildings, it’s remarkable what they have done. Once abandoned property is now home to thriving restaurants and bakeries, artists sell their creations in individual galleries, entrepreneurs give their dream business a go, it’s all very grass-roots. We passed a coffee shop and winery in one building, a cheesecake shop in another, there’s so much to see; it will have to wait until our next visit, the big lake was calling……..

Narrowly situated between the east and west arms of Grand Traverse Bay is Old Mission Peninsula (sigh). I think of it as Michigan’s own little piece of paradise. As opposed to using Center Rd (37) take the lesser traveled routes like Peninsula Drive, Smokey Hollow Road and Bluff Rd, they offer spectacular views; for much of the drive the sparkling turquoise water of Lake Michigan is in sight. Lush vineyards heavy with grapes grow on slopes of land as far as the eye can see; apple orchards are getting ready for their big show in the fall, roadside stands offer ripe peaches and “washed” cherries. Fertile farmland is home to tall stalks of corn, ripening tomatoes and lovely red barns sitting in fields. Plots of land are filled with hundreds of leafy green hops climbing up support wires, cherry trees are hoping for better luck next season. From the road we see an amazing array of homes; a tall, narrow, glass house in contemporary design sits right at the shoreline, long modern ranches are terraced into the bluffs, perched way up high grand homes get a panoramic view of both bays. There are no traffic lights, fast food restaurants, gas stations or billboards; a welcome change from city life. A seasonal road invites us to take a ride through the dense woods, two dirt tracks lead the way. Before long, large rocks make it impossible to continue, we park and walk the rest of the way. The terrain of course, is deep sand, bits of sticks poke out so we keep our shoes on, we emerge from the cool shade of the woods into the heat and sun on the beach. The lake is magnificent; the color varies from the clear sandy shore to the azure of the deep water, it is breathtaking. There is not another soul in either direction, the scene is ours for the keeping. Gentle waves lap the shoreline, the air is still, I find a rock to use as a chair as Kris tries to capture the serenity of the setting in photos.

You may have heard that Michiganders know a thing or two about making wine; seven wineries call Old Mission Peninsula home, giving us the opportunity to see for ourselves what all the buzz is about. Our first stop is Bowers Harbor Vineyards, I love the drive to the parking area; it gives you a up-close look at the vines. Inside our senses are awakened with the aroma of wine; visitors mill about selecting bottles from racks, we head to the bar to indulge in a tasting. We go down the list from dry to sweet, enjoying every pour, making note of the ones we like best, conversation flows easily, you can’t help but enjoy the experience. We carefully place our purchase in the Jeep and make the drive to 2 Lads. Positioned high on a bluff, the building’s design is purely contemporary, the wall behind the tasting bar is all glass, offering an incredible overlook of land and lake. Not usually white wine drinkers, we find the Michigan whites irresistible; we carefully place our bottles besides the others in the Jeep.

When we are on the peninsula we make it a point to pick up lunch at the Old Mission General Store in Old Mission. Put the store on your list of places to visit; built in the mid 1800’s it has always been a trading post of sorts. Pass through the doorway and back in time; if the owner is there be sure and say hello, if you’re lucky he’ll tell you a few stories. The interior is a hodge podge of things old and new; a black pot-bellied stove sits front and center, antique lanterns and signs hang from the rafters, the wood plank floor creeks as shoppers wander around. Wooden barrels contain ginger snaps, and dill pickles, old-fashioned glass jars tempt with red and black licorice, Moomers ice cream is being scooped onto cones. We head over to the prepared food counter, we order their awesome Italian sandwich and pick up a few sides. With cold root beer from the cooler and a handful of napkins we have all the fixings for a picnic on the beach. Haserot beach is just down the road; picnic tables reside in the sand facing the east arm; kayaks, swimmers and boats all compete for space off shore. We unpack our brown paper bag of delicious edibles and devour our lunch. There are still five more wineries to visit…..

Old Mission Peninsula is located at the globe’s 45th parallel; an ideal wine growing region which also includes the Bordeaux region of France and the Piedmont and Lombardy region of Italy. Grapes grown here consist of Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Riesling and more; the local ice wine is excellent. Next on our list was Chateau Chantal; high atop a ridge, it offers the most exquisite view. After our tastings we take a stroll on the patio; both east and west bays can be seen from this vantage point, the land between green with vineyards and orchards, breathtaking. We drop by Brys Estate and Chateau Grand Traverse; the tasting room of each unique, we always find something we like. Peninsula Cellars is a converted one room schoolhouse built around 1896; with the original windows, floor, slate boards and bell still in place it has a great atmosphere. The staff that does the pouring is super friendly and knowledgeable, this was the place we liked the most wines; as a matter of fact, we needed a box to get our selections to the car! At the southern end of the peninsula is Black Star Farms, we make our way to the tasting bar which is made from wine barrels, of course! We sample wine, eat crackers and have nice conversation, not a bad way to spend a day right? I like walking around the ‘showrooms’, as I call them; each winery has its own personality, wine bottles are displayed with award-winning ribbons, some offer fruit and cheese to go, chocolate is always available. The vines themselves are lovely; tight clusters of grapes hang gracefully waiting for the harvest, it is all so picturesque.

After resting at the condo we drive to downtown Traverse City for dinner; it’s a perfect evening to be outside, the film festival has come to an end, people are out on the sidewalks in great numbers. Again eateries are staying open late to accommodate the influx of tourists; we are hoping for an open table at Poppycock’s. When we arrived there was a short wait, at 10pm the place was still buzzing with patrons. We were famished, so we swiftly made our selections. The Front Street salad comes with chunks of cherry jalapeno glazed chicken breast and a lemon cherry vinaigrette, quite good. The cherry almond salmon is also a tasty dish; almond crusted salmon is served over a bed of orzo and a side of grilled asparagus, yum. After dinner we spent some time just walking around, the later it got the quieter the town became; at some point we were two of the very few people left on the streets. Each night as we drive back to the condo we are treated to a star-studded sky, tonight’s was extraordinary. As we drove along the now familiar Cedar Run Rd it hit me that this was our last night here, but I am content, I know that when I leave I will be taking with me the unforgettable experience that is “up north”.

Tags: Haserot Beach, Lake Michigan, Michigan Wineries, Traverse City, Wineries of Old Mission Peninsula

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Categories Road Trips, Visit

UP NORTH: From Tip to Traverse…..

19 Aug

We awoke to the sound of absolutely nothing; all that peace and quiet, we slept later than planned, “Up North” will do that to you. Today would be spent in the Jeep, enjoying another scenic ride. We made the decision to take a direct route up to the ring finger area of the mitten, also known as Sturgeon Bay, then enjoy the slow pace and picturesque views along the water coming back down; this was a good plan. Lakeshore Drive runs along Sturgeon Bay for miles, the length of it remote beach, finally ending in Wilderness State Park. Cars pull off and park roadside; swim suit wearing pedestrians carry beach bags and towels, looking for their own private stretch of beach. It was hot, the temperature near 90 when we left Traverse City, the warm sand squeaking as we walked, the water clean and clear. Finding a spot not too close to anybody else we laid our towels out on the soft sand and sat down; again finding ourselves staring out into the aquamarine lake. I find it a daunting task grasping for words to describe such a scene; remarkable, dazzling, and resplendent come to mind. Lake Michigan is a force, a living, breathing entity, it draws me in and takes me under its spell; no matter how many times I see it, I can never get enough. The drive ahead will provide us with marvelous views of both lake and land; M-119, the Tunnel of Trees.

Because of our late start, it was already lunch time; Cross Village was just ahead, it is one of the oldest settlements in Michigan, but what has really put it on the map, so to speak, is a unique restaurant, built high on a bluff overlooking the big lake, serving Polish Food for over 90 years; this my friends is Legs Inn. Referred to as an “architectural marvel”, the building is the hard work and dream of one Stanley Smolak, a Polish immigrant who created the furniture and structure from tree stumps, limbs, roots, driftwood and stones he found in the surrounding area. Cross the threshold and enter a fantasy land of nature tamed into whimsical usefulness and purpose; tables, chairs, ceiling timbers and benches, it is an incredible sight! This was our first visit ever where there wasn’t a line to be seated. The business has grown through the years and now includes manicured gardens and outdoor dining; it was a perfect August day, we headed straight for the patio. Tourists mill about on the lush green lawn, posing for photos by the different hand carved totem poles, perennial beds, and most popular, standing by the wall that overlooks the lake. Service was swift; before we knew it we were scooping up forkfuls of bigos, golabki, and dutifully dipping pierogi into cups of sour cream. Along with the combination plate we indulged in apple and cheese nalesniki; everything was outstanding. No time to linger, we have over 27 miles of fantastic, twisty, and winding road ahead!

At first glance the road appears to be a single lane, as a center line is non-existent; with a little give and take, it is accommodating to two-way traffic. Lining the roadway are mature trees giving you the feeling of driving through a forest; the largest ones actually meet over the road creating a tunnel. Adhering to the eastern shoreline, the pavement rewards us with awe-inspiring glimpses of Lake Michigan.

We find ourselves in Good Hart; a series of small businesses make up the miniscule town. We park roadside, the appeal of the Northern Crepes cart too much to resist; something sweet to follow up our lunch. We stretch our legs with a walk through Primitive Images, a splendid cabin circa 1840 that was moved from Quebec and rebuilt on this spot. Beautiful pieces of furniture made from Birch, Willow and Hickory twigs, etched glass pieces, and an antler chandelier are all browse worthy. In the back the Good Hart and Soul Tea Room resides; we purchased cold drinks then retreat back outdoors for a simple, delicious, butter, sugar and cinnamon crepe. A Studio is filled with more good things, catering specifically to women; scarves, T-shirts, shoes and jewelry, it’s all lovely. This charming little group of shops is totally unexpected and a fantastic find on a road that is a destination in itself.

A little further south we find ourselves in a tight horseshoe curve known as Devil’s Elbow, the corners of Kris’s mouth tilt up in a grin as he maneuvers the Jeep. Here and there it is possible to pull over and take in the surroundings; the alluring waterscape, picture perfect farms, and gorgeous countryside. We arrive in Harbor Springs, a well-known resort town that looks like it would be right at home on the east coast. We drive up to the top of the bluff; a residential area with grand old homes and enjoy the remarkable view of Little Traverse Bay. Cutting back through town the sidewalks are crowded with tourists; cars drive up and down the main street in search of parking; wedding guests meander toward the large white tent near the lake.

M-119 ends at Bayview, part of the Chautauqua movement, it was founded by a group of Methodists to be used as a retreat, it is sensational! There are said to be 440 cottages, most built in the high Victorian style. We parked by one of the community buildings and hit the pavement; you have to go on foot to see all of the amazing details. The array of colors make each cottage unique, many are surrounded by well-tended gardens; plan on spending at least an hour walking around. Now on US 31 we arrive in Petoskey; we ascend into the gaslight district with its wonderful view of the bay. Petoskey is the largest town on this coast, its quaint downtown area is made up of several blocks of shops, restaurants, hotels and cafes. If your sweet tooth is calling, there are plenty of places you can pick up some fudge or ice cream. A visit to American Spoon is a must; in addition to their vast selection of jams, jellies, sauces and salsa’s you can also indulge in Gelato or sorbet, yum!

And onward we go…..In Charlevoix we check out the whimsical homes built by Earl A Young; the largest concentration located along Park Avenue, Clinton and Grant Streets. Built entirely of stone with cedar shake roofs, they are known as fairy or mushroom houses; no two are alike. As we walk I am continually pointing and saying “make sure you get a picture of that” door, or window or chimney. I’d love to see the inside! Next we take a quick stroll through downtown; standing on a strip of land that separates Lake Michigan from Lake Charlevoix, the vista is awe-inspiring; there needs to be a word just for this! Throughout the entire day I have seen nothing but smiling faces; of course the ice cream and fudge may have something to do with that……When you visit this area the beauty gets right into your system; it soothes you. We planned the day as a drive, but each one of these attractive old-fashioned towns is worthy of a day spent roaming in and out of shops, a walk on the beach and a fabulous meal.

After a stop at the condo to freshen up for dinner we mosey back to Traverse City for dinner. Because of the film festival everything is staying open late, lucky for us because it almost 10 pm. We wanted something light; FireFly on Cass has a broad menu that includes sushi, just what we were looking for. The place was packed, but a table for two was easy to come by. After a wonderful meal we roamed around on foot, the streets still thick with festival-goers. We popped into Phil’s on Front for coffee and dessert, if you like chocolate be sure to stop in any time of day….We split a piece of the Northern Star, along with really good coffee and live music it was a relaxing way to end a perfect day.

Tags: Bay View, Charlevoix, Cross Village, Good Hart, Legs Inn, M-119, Petoskey, Sturgeon Bay, Tunnel Of Trees

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Categories Road Trips

UP NORTH: M-22, The Leelanau Peninsula

14 Aug

We’ve been trying to get up here for what seems like ages; the proverbial “Up North” getaway, something always seemed to get in the way. Michigan has a plethora of fantastic, beautiful scenery, but to us, the northwest corner is king. Like all of our trips, we cram a lot into a little time; today we’ll show you some of our M-22 favorites. We leave the metro area via M-15, then hop onto M-115 via US10. While certainly not unpleasant, the scenery along the way looks like much of Michigan; then we make our way to the tiny hamlet of Beulah and catch our first glimpse of the perfectly aqua water of Crystal Lake; we have officially arrived.It was already time for lunch when we first set eyes on this gorgeous inland lake; we stopped in Beulah, grabbed a carry-out from L’chayim Deli, and took it to a table lake side to eat. The village does a great job allowing the public access to the lake with its pavilion, small beach and seating areas. With a perfect view of the water, we dug into our sandwiches; the Jerusalem: artichoke hearts, black pepper feta spread, red onion, lettuce and tomato on a salt bagel, and the Oy Vai: Corned beef, pastrami, cream cheese, pepper jack, red onion, lettuce, tomato, and Dijon mustard on multi-grain bread; both were delicious.

Onward we went; we continued our tour of Crystal Lake driving the perimeter, then on to Frankfort, across Betsie Lake and on to Elberta. Perched on the side of a sand dune is a small gallery/coffee shop called Trick Dog. What a cool place! The building itself is adorned with funky details, the large front porch overlooks the serene Betsie Bay, large sculptures on the grounds encourage smiles. The gallery itself is filled with unique art work, it also sells an interesting array of housewares, dog accessories, jewelry and T-shirts. The espresso bar offers a variety of beverages along with baked goods, yum! We enjoyed our coffee break, stopping briefly for a panoramic view of Lake Michigan, and pointed the Jeep north. It would be impossible to tell you about every charming town and spectacular view we had the pleasure of experiencing on our trip, so I will try to narrow it down to highlights and favorites; then you will have to make the trip and see for yourself what an amazing place this is!

The Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore has been swarmed with visitors since being voted America’s Most Beautiful Place by Good Morning America, with good reason, it’s absolutely stunning. Our favorite way to see it? Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive. At just over seven miles long this narrow road leads you through the forest and dunes; scenic turnouts provide spectacular vistas of Glen Lake and of course, Lake Michigan and Sleeping Bear Dunes. The Lake Michigan overlook is 450 feet above the lake itself; the beach below a resting spot for those about to embark on the steep climb to the top. Anchored near shore are boats of all sizes, their passengers cooling off with a late afternoon dip. As Kris wanders about taking photos I make myself at home atop the dune; the sand has absorbed the heat of the sun, increasing my body temperature. As I gaze outward the lake seems to go on into eternity; what do you call that color of blue? It’s quiet here, even though the dune is littered with people, I watch the progress of the climbers as family and friends cheer them upward. Kris got my attention, we moved on to the deck that hangs out over the dune; probably the most popular place to take pictures. It is easy to detect the changes in depth here by the varying shades of blues. There is no end to the comings and goings of tourists.

We still had much to do before day’s end, Glen Arbor was our next destination. As somebody who likes getting somewhere as much as being there, M-22 is a dream drive for my husband; winding roads are smooth and even, traffic lights do not exist. Orchards, farms and tiny towns speck the vast open land, it is serene and picturesque. We arrived in Glen Arbor and drove straight toCherry Republic , with a motto of “Life, Liberty, Beaches and Pie”, what’s not to love? We started at the winery and tasted to our hearts content; after narrowing it down to two bottles we made our purchase and stepped next door to the Great Hall of The Republic. Here you will find a mind-blowing array of cherry products, I will not even attempt to list them, you can click on the link to their website and see for yourself. The store itself has shelf after shelf of items, generous samples abound; it’s a good thing they do not weigh you as you come in and as you leave, it could be embarrassing….The products are truly outstanding; made with the highest quality fruit, nuts and chocolate, they are second to none.

With our sweet tooth satisfied and a stash of goodies to last us the next few days, it was back on M-22 and up the Leelanau Peninsula. We stopped briefly in Leland, took a quick walk through Fishtown and then drove out to the tip of the peninsula and Lighthouse Point. Again, the view is remarkable, the air feels fresh and clean in my lungs, my body feels relaxed, at ease. We walk the shoreline taking more photos of water, the sight never becomes tiresome. Folks have begun stacking rocks, creating towers of all shapes and sizes. We notice the sun is getting lower, our cue to head back down the peninsula, this time following the east shoreline.

Northport has grown since our last visit; a quick stop at the quaint Kamp Grounds Coffee and Creamery provided us a much-needed beverage. Omena, Peshawbestown and Suttons Bay are all enchanting little villages, darling shops and cafes call to us, but the clock and water views keep pulling us onward. Next visit we will dedicate an entire day to this lovely peninsula, its towns and wineries. For us it is time to head into Traverse City and get some dinner! When we arrived in the city is was after 9pm and the town was packed; the Traverse City Film Festival was in full swing. For an instant panic set in, would the restaurants be lined up out the door? Only one way to find out….Last time we were in town we ate at a little place on Union called Soul Hole, described as eclectic southern cuisine, the food was excellent; we were hoping to get dinner there tonight. We lucked out with a parking place right in front of the door and no line to be seated, whew! With a quick glance at the menu we placed our order and sat back in our booth, we had been on the go since early morning. Without much delay plates of food arrived at the table; fried green tomatoes, crispy outside, juicy inside with a spicy creole dipping sauce. The house salad was served with a sweet corn vinaigrette, very tasty and then there’s the southern fried chicken…fried to a perfect golden brown, tender and well seasoned it is out of this world; the cornbread and grits were pretty awesome too! When our meal was finished the day had finally settled down upon us, we were in need of a comfy bed and a good night sleep. Fortunately for us it was just a short drive to the place we would call home for the next few days; a condo on loan from dear and generous friends.

Tags: Beulah, Cherry Republic, Crystal Lake, Glen Arbor, Lake Michugan, Leelanau Peninsula, Northwest Michigan, Pierce Stocking Drive, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, Traverse City

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Categories Road Trips, Visit

PITTSBURGH: Eye Candy

3 Aug

We awoke early; it was our last day in Pittsburgh and we had so much to do! Breakfast at The Priory is out of this world; laid out buffet style, grab a plate and dig in. This Sunday they were serving hard-boiled eggs, fresh fruit platter, a selection of hard and soft cheeses, salami, mustards, a pound cake like sweet bread and an array of pastries that made my mouth water. It is an amazing variety of food accompanied by really good coffee. We filled our plates; juggling dishes, silverware and beverages, we managed to make our way out to the garden courtyard; this is the life! Then, with our appetites satisfied it was time to gather our belongings and hit the sight-seeing trail.

Pittsburgh is made up of a succession of unique neighborhoods; as you drive around, the city never lets you forget it’s a blue-collar town. Built up by industry and manufacturing it is clear this is where working men lived, I love that about this place. Heading east and south from downtown you pass through The Strip, Bloomfield (their Little Italy), Shadyside (a little more trendy) and then our destination of Oakland. The Oakland area is home to many cultural attractions; we were here to visit Phipps Conservatory. Open since 1893 this steel and glass Victorian greenhouse is an elegant sight. Inside concrete pathways lead you from room to room; Orchids, Ferns, desert plants and Victorian gardens will enchant you. The Summer Flower Show is titled Fountains of Youth; a collection of displays that incorporate water features with healing plants, aromatic herbs, spices, fruits and veggies. Hibiscus, Zinnia and Lantana dazzle us in oranges, pinks and yellows; fish swim in shallow ponds and tubes of bubbling water catch our attention. On the main floor they were demonstrating the process of extracting honey, fascinating! The Butterfly Forest is popular with both amateur and professional photographers; these flying wonders of color seem eager to pose.

Our next destination was the Cathedral of Learning, at 535 feet tall, this is the world’s second tallest tower of classrooms. Decked out in Indiana limestone, the lavish Gothic architecture structure is impressive. Considered the centerpiece of the University of Pittsburgh’s main campus, ground was broken in 1926 and it was finally dedicated in 1937. Put this on your list of places to visit! Inside we were taken aback by the massive Commons Room; this three-story Gothic masterpiece is used as a general study area. Seriously, I don’t know how anyone could take their eyes away from the view long enough to study. Inside the walls are Indiana limestone, floors are green Vermont Slate; the arches are stunning. Visitors and locals alike come to ramble through the building. Twenty-nine “Nationality Rooms” are located on the first and third floors; these are actually classrooms designed and decorated to represent the culture of different countries. You have to see them; representing countries like Italy, Poland, Ireland, China and France, no detail is left out. My favorite one was the Austrian Room; Baroque in design, the room features red tapestry walls, a parquet floor, ceiling murals and of course Lobmeyer crystal chandeliers, it is absolutely gorgeous. Some of the rooms are open most of the time, to see each and every one take the audio tour, along with your listening device you get a key that allows you entry to all the rooms.

Just outside the cathedral in Schenley Park is the Heinz Chapel, dedicated in 1938 this structure is magnificent. Also made of Indiana limestone, the carvings are exceptional both inside and out. Lanterns, door fittings and railings are wrought iron; the wood is oak, they say each entrance door weighs 800 lbs! From the carvings to the windows the buildings theme is spiritual values in education; concepts Anna Margaretta Heinz believed in. Her son Henry John Heinz, founder of H J Heinz, arranged in his will for the building to be built in her honor. Take the time to check it out.

We drove back downtown for lunch. We stopped in at Dibella’s Old Fashioned Submarines on Market Square and grabbed some food, then walked over to the plaza at PPG Place to eat. The fountain is the main draw of the plaza; jets of water shoot up from the surface in varying patterns and heights, then disappear back into the surface. On a hot day such as today, its popularity grows. Kids and grown-ups alike dart through 140 columns of water, the smaller ones shrieking in joy. The tiniest of visitors find it all very puzzling, just when they give up and think the water is gone for good it pulses up again; it makes for great entertainment. The plaza is located in the center of the 6 building PPG complex; the buildings are all of matching glass design and boast 231 glass spires. Often referred to as the “crown jewel” of the Pittsburgh skyline, we think it is cool modern architecture.

The hours were ticking by too quickly, but we still had time to visit to the Children’s Museum. Spread out over four floors, there is lots to do! The Wizard Of Oz exhibit is based on the classic movie; I think I had as much fun as the kids. Here you can climb the witches castle and retrieve her broom or visit the Gale farm. You see what it felt like in Dorothy’s bedroom when it was caught up in the tornado and then travel to Emerald City. The Attic features a large doll house, the girls love this one. Get your fortune told by Zelda the Fortune Teller machine or walk around at a 25 degree angle in the gravity room. Adults like to gather in the Garage, here you will find things that drive, fly and roll. Play Hide and Seek in 5 and 7 foot tall tires, build a custom racetrack for toy cars or launch parachutes off a vertical conveyor. Upstairs is home to a 53-foot water table, a very active area. The museum provides bright yellow slickers and water clogs to help keep the kids dry, I have my doubts about that…tikes dressed in yellow from head to toe splash around in the shallow pond, older kids work on creating fountains from pipes sprinklers and elbows, some of them are quite good. All in all the place is a bevy of activity and laughter.

It was nearly 5pm, time to take the scenic route back west to the Motor City. We are still getting to know this complex city, and having a blast doing so.

Tags: Cathedral of Learning, Childrens Museum Pittsburgh, Heinz Chapel, Nationality Rooms, Oakland, Phipps Conservatory, PPG Fountain, The Priory

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Categories Road Trips

ROADTRIP: Eating up Pittsburgh

30 Jul

Morning had arrived; after a quick breakfast at the hotel we packed our things and got back on the road; we would be in Pittsburgh in less than three hours. We have visited this city several times, but it can still be intimidating. Make a wrong turn? In most cases it is not a simple matter of turning around; oh no, here you find yourself on a bridge, crossing one of three rivers, in some cases the road takes you directly into a tunnel….a long tunnel. Once you figure out where you are, you have to reverse the process and try again; if you’re not in a hurry it can lead to some very interesting sight-seeing. Luckily for me Kris has an amazing sense of direction and we can usually get where we want without too much trouble.

The first stop on the day’s agenda was The Strip. Located just outside of downtown, this is Pittsburgh’s historic market district. Back in the 1820’s this area was mostly industrial; iron mills, glass factories and foundries employed both locals and southern and eastern European immigrants; by 1915 80% of strip district residents were foreign-born, 30% were Polish. Andrew Carnegie got his start in the iron and steel industries here with mills on Smallman and 33rd. In the early 1900’s produce merchants began moving into the strip to be near the Pennsylvania railroad yards; remember back then everything was transported by train. Produce terminals, auction houses and wholesalers took up residence on Smallman and Penn; unfortunately The Depression then a massive flood and finally WWII took their toll on the area. Soon trucks replaced railroads and chain grocery stores took over small independent stores; in the 1970’s 71 wholesale produce dealers remained in the strip, by 1970 only two dozen were left; we in Detroit know the cycle all too well. The good news is today The Strip is alive and well!

We parked on Smallman and were amazed at the amount of people and activity in the area. Penn is the main street these days, so that’s where we started;blocks are long, the street seems never-ending. If you are looking for something food related I’d be willing to bet you can find it here; meat shops, fresh produce, street-side grills, ethnic food stores, spice shops and chocolate; I counted 4 coffee shops. There are places you must see: Wholey Market is definitely one. This market is amazing; selling every kind of fish and seafood you can think of, the main attraction is their aquariums of live fish located in the back of the store; crowds gather around as customers make their selections. Whole, filleted, fresh or frozen, it’s here. The place is huge, meander around from section to section; meats, poultry, deli, fudge and groceries; they are celebrating 100 years in the business this year! Baked goods are available for sale out front as a man sings and entertains market-goers, it’s an experience in itself. The street is lined with sidewalk merchants selling everything from imported clothing, shoes and jewelry to Steelers wear. The buildings are left over from the glory days; signs are still hand-lettered, second and third generations shop in the same shops their grandparents did. The Pennsylvania Macaroni Company has been around since 1902, definitely stop in. The aroma of food has been penetrating these walls for over a hundred years; salami, capicola, fresh mozzarella, Parmesan, at least 20 varieties of olive oil and more shapes of pasta than I’ve ever seen! There are non-food shops here too; home decor, antiques, cigars, pottery and kitchen ware.

We were starving, time for lunch! We already knew where we were going to eat since we decided to come to the city; The Enrico Biscotti Co. Biscotti? you say? Well, sort of….The Enrico Biscotti Co. began as a bakery specializing in traditional Italian pastries; all made on site, by hand. A few years ago they opened a small cafe that adjoins the bakery, the food is outstanding. You enter the cafe from an alley sidewalk, tiny tables line the walk. We stepped inside the door, the restaurant was filled to capacity, we asked to sit outdoors and were told to sit anywhere we wanted. The menu is concise; Beans and Greens, brick oven pizzas, sandwich, salad and soup. The food is simple food, deliciously prepared. We ordered the Sanga Weech of the day; their tender, flavorful pizza crust serves as the bread, a selection of meat, cheese and veggies make up the filling, yum! The Big Fat Salad of the day had granny smith apples, toasted pecans and chevre, house made balsamic vinaigrette topped it off, everything here is tasty! You can have your dessert in the cafe, but we preferred to walk the few steps to the bakery itself and see the offerings with our own eyes. As you have gathered by the name, the house specialty is the biscotti; this is not your ordinary biscotti. Loaves of dough are made with real butter and flavorful ingredients, then cut into wedges and baked; the selection is endless. The Macaroons are fantastic, oversized and dunked in chocolate they are always a good choice. Truthfully, I’ve never gotten anything here that I didn’t like. Today Kris found the pecan bars irresistible, we got one to go and walked over to La Prima for a couple of iced coffees. On the way back to the car we noticed the doors to St Stanislaus Kostka Church were open, so we took a peek inside, just gorgeous!

Time to check in at our hotel. The Priory, located in the North Shore district, is a historic boutique hotel. Built in 1888 this Inn is fantastic a wonderful blend of new and old; originally St Mary’s Church and Priory the buildings now function as a hotel and event space. Desk clerks are helpful, warm and friendly; if you have questions about the building or the city, they have the answers. A recent addition makes the total number of rooms 42, an elevator was also installed, which makes getting luggage up to the third floor a snap! We stayed in the new section this time; the attention to detail is incredible, you’d never know this wasn’t part of the original building. Also new in 2011 is the Monk’s Bar; located on the main floor in the original building this mini bar is quite charming. After getting situated in our room we stopped in for a cocktail then retreated to the lovely outdoor courtyard to relax and sip our drinks. The former St Mary’s church is now known as The Grand Hall, tonight it was rented out for a wedding; guests are free to use the courtyard as well. We strolled over to the hall to have a look, absolutely stunning from the church to the decorations it would be hard to find a prettier place for a wedding.

We already had plans for the evening; it was no coincidence we found ourselves in Pittsburgh the same weekend as the Detroit Derby Girls, we try to get to one out of town bout a season. It was about a 20 minute drive to Glenshaw and the Romp n’ Roll roller rink; the girls were warming up when we arrived. We sat in the front row ready to cheer our teams on. The first bout was Steel City’s B Unit versus the Motor City Disassembly Line; the bout was fast paced and exciting, even more exciting for us because Detroit won! The second bout featured Steel Hurtin’ versus The Detroit Derby Girls; unfortunately it was not the Derby Girls night and Pittsburgh prevailed, the home town fans were ecstatic! We’ll get ’em next time …

The evening had flown by and we had yet to have dinner, we were hoping we could find something open late. Taking the first bridge we saw crossing the Allegheny we ended up on Butler St in the up and coming city of Lawrenceville. The street is packed with bars, sidewalk cafes and restaurants, many of which were still open. Alchemy N Ale looked interesting, the sign called it a Gastro-Pub and we could get seated immediately. Contemporary in design, the menu features a large selection of appetizers, salads, sandwiches and a few entrees. We picked the shrimp tacos and a burger and split both. The food arrived without delay; there were three shrimp tacos each featuring a different sauce, we like all of them. The burger came on a kaiser roll with blue cheese, crispy bacon, a port glaze and sweet onion marmalade, very nice. We were so hungry the food disappeared quickly.

No visit to Pittsburgh is complete without driving up to Mt Washington; there isn’t a better view of the city. The area is always busy with tourists trying to get that perfect shot. Night time is especially beautiful with all the lights of the city and bridges. Once at the top there are several overlooks to choose from; we stopped at all of them. You feel as if you could just stand here looking out with complete disregard to time. For us it was time to get back to our room and rested up, there is so much to do tomorrow!

Tags: Enrico's Boscotti, Mt Washington, North Shore, Pittsburgh, Roller Derby, Steel City Roller Derby, The Priory, The Strip

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Categories Road Trips

Scenic Backroads: Ohio’s Amish Country

25 Jul

It’s true the shortest distance between two points is a straight line; it is usually the most boring too. With an overnight trip to Pittsburgh planned, Kris chose a route that would take us through the rolling hills, gorgeous farms and tiny towns of central Ohio; I’m talking about Amish Country. We did a post on the area last summer, it’s so unique and pretty we think it’s worthy of another.Ohio’s Amish country is made up of 8 counties; together they are the worlds largest Amish/Mennonite settlement. The topography of the area is made up of picturesque farmland that carpets hills and valleys; barns are immaculately kept as are the homes. The roads are a treat for those that love a road that winds around tight corners and hugs wide curves, as the rise and slope challenge your driving skills; precisely the reason Kris enjoys them so much. It seems to be one photo worthy scene after another as you reach the top of a hillside or come around a curve; fields resemble a patchwork quilt of greens and gold; cows and horses appear content within their fences grazing on the land. All the while you are traversing the roads you have to remain conscious to the fact that you are sharing the road with an entire community of non-motorized travelers. Horse-drawn buggies are the most common means of transportation for local families; bicycles are right up there too; I have great admiration for the thighs that are able to pedal a bike up some of these hills….not to mention women do it wearing a dress! Life is lived at a much slower pace here, you can feel it as soon as you start to explore the area.

Speaking of exploration, that’s exactly what we do on our visits. We have no specific plan; we just simply drive around turning here or there on any road that looks interesting. I have a wonderful visitors map of the area and our Jeep has a compass, with that and a sense of adventure we are destined to have a great time. We were ready for lunch when we reached Berlin. Boyd and Wurthmann, open since 1938, is the oldest continually operating restaurant in Berlin; one of the most popular too. With no open tables we took two seats at the counter; we ordered a salad and a club sandwich then sat back and watched as waitresses cut and served more slices of delicious looking pies than I could count. Waiting gave me the opportunity to study the list of the day’s pies; from Apple Brown Bag and Fresh Peach to Southern Coconut Cream and Raisin, pieces disappear as fast as they can cut them! After polishing off our tasty meal we couldn’t help but indulge in a piece of Peanut Butter Pie…..YUM! We returned to the Jeep, back to the other side of Berlin and further east through Walnut Creek, Winesburg and Wilmot; stopping in here and there to wander through quaint shops. We dropped in at the Wendell August Forge, America’s oldest and largest forge featuring the well-known, hand-wrought metal ware. The elegant giftware and jewelry made from aluminum, bronze, pewter and sterling silver is still handmade in the US! Definitely click on the link and take a look at the magnificent pieces they make. We passed furniture stores, Inns and markets; there are wineries and farm tours, so much to see and do. We made another stop at Heini’s Cheese Chalet, wow! now that’s a lot of cheese. The cheese making tours were over for the day, but you could still get a look at the area and equipment used. This place was packed; samples of each kind are readily available; customers wander about with armloads of cheeses. This is good stuff.

North of Charm ( yes, it really is charming) is one of my favorite places; Hershberger’s Bakery and Farm. We start out in the animal petting area where I quickly regress to the age of 10 or so and want to take home a bunny, a duckling or even a goat? My lifestyle is not conducive to pet ownership, but one look at those cute little faces, a pet on the head, a scratch behind the ears and I’m hooked. We walked from pen to pen, I getting my animal fix and Kris taking photos, until we had visited all the critters. At the bakery next door we joined the crowd staring at the large volume of cookies, cakes, pies and jams; everything looks so good.

We were staying at the Berlin Hotel & Suites in Millersburg, so we thought we check in and freshen up before dinner. This time of year hotels and Inns fill up quickly, so be sure to make a reservation well in advance. Upon check-in we each received a warm oatmeal raisin cookie; once in our room I slid it out of the wax paper bag and took a bite, mmmm mmmmm good! I find that all baked goods in Amish country are outstanding. After a little R&R it was dinner at Chalet In The Valley located on SR 557 in Millersburg. The restaurant is quaint in its Swiss decor; known for its Swiss cuisine and Amish favorites, it appeals to tourists and locals alike. We thought we’d go with something traditional; Jaeger schnitzel, spaetzle, German potato salad and a side of sauerkraut balls. Each item was delectable, the mushroom sauce on the tender schnitzel was to die for, in addition to the sauerkraut the little deep-fried goodies had shredded pork and came with a side of mustard for dipping. Don’t even get me started on the spaetzle…I am a pastaholic and found these amazing. We finished our meal in the glass enclosed dining room overlooking the countryside. Back in Berlin, which I would say most people consider “town” we happened upon a couple of performers on an outdoor stage. Plastic chairs were set up inviting passerby’s to sit down and enjoy the music. The performance ended at 9pm; a coffee shop remained open kiddy corner from the venue, so we stopped in for an iced coffee fix. Back at the hotel there are wonderful outdoor spaces to enjoy, so we did just that. The back of the hotel has a large patio; two fire pits were burning bright surrounded by groups of chairs. The temperature had dropped into the 60’s so we had a seat fireside while we finished our coffees. Further down the grassy hill is a lovely gazebos; you can sit and listen to the sound of running water as two man- made waterfalls run into a large pond, the set up is made for relaxation. It was getting late and we had a full day ahead; tomorrow we would say goodbye to countryside and hello to the city; Pittsburgh that is.

Tags: Berlin, Charm, Millersburg, Ohio's Amish Country, Scenic Drives

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Categories Road Trips

Cleveland Day III : Museums & More…..

27 Jun

It was our last day in Cleveland and we still had a list of things we wanted to do. The day promised to be a warm one, so we thought we’d check out a few museums in air-conditioned comfort. The University Circle district is home to more than a dozen museum and cultural institutions; anchored by hospitals and universities this part of town has lots going on. We began with a visit to the Cleveland Museum of Natural History. The building is laid out in a way that leads you from gallery to gallery; teaching us about all aspects of nature from prehistoric times to the present. We had just begun to walk around the lobby area when Kris noticed a man walking around holding a skunk; getting ready to do a lecture, the speaker paused for a while to let anyone interested pet the animal. Getting a closer look at the black and white critter, she is really very cute. I stroked her back and the top of her head, the fur is stiff and somewhat bristly. Keeping with the wildlife theme we went outdoors to the Wildlife Center and Woods Garden; just over 2 acres of plants and animals native to the area. Shaded by large trees we saw owls, Bald Eagles (Wow are they big!), fox, bobcats and a deer. The museum itself is a mix of old and new; a large open space from floor to ceiling, displays divide the galleries. The Kirtland Hall of prehistoric life features a full size replica of a T. Rex and a Triceratops; why is it children are afraid of Santa Claus but the sight of a gigantic skeletal figure with huge teeth is fun? Check out the Dunkleosteus Terrelli…it’s a fossil fish that was found in the shale around Cleveland, don’t think I’ve ever seen one of those before. Follow the formation of the universe, feel the rumble of an earthquake, touch a volcanic rock, a stalagmite and a stalactite. I really liked the section of gems and minerals; colored diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and a large display of mineral eggs, beautiful!

Next up, the Cleveland Museum Of Art; opened in 1916 the Beaux Arts style building was designed by local architects Benjamin Hubbell and Dominick Benes. Originally two wings flanking a central rotunda, it has undergone many changes and additions throughout the years, its beautiful white Georgian marble facade has remained. Each time we enter an art museum we are offered a map, we prefer to wander aimlessly and discover things on our own. The interior is elegant; marble columns, exquisite sconces, architectural details everywhere, it feels light and airy. Currently undergoing yet another expansion and renovation, there is still plenty to see; African, Medieval, Greek and Roman art. Decorative art and design showcases incredible items such as furniture, clocks and other household type things that are opulent and magnificent. Hard to believe people actually used such pretty things. The vibrant colors and amazing details of European paintings from 1500-1800 are amazing, the sculpture always fascinates me too. Internationally renowned for its collection of Ancient Egyptian Art, the gallery is impressive. I can’t wait to come back and see the museum when renovations are complete.

Just a hop and a skip from Little Italy, lunch was close at hand. With more than a dozen restaurants to choose from parking would dictate where we ate. With an open space directly in front of Etna Restaurant, we took it as a sign. Cute cafe tables sit on the sidewalk under a kelly green awning; with the threat of rain looming we chose to dine inside. Traditional in decor with white tablecloths the space is charming. Our server arrived quickly to greet us and recite the specials of the day. When he arrived to take our order he brought along a basket of delicious, fresh, crunchy crust, chewy middle, Italian bread with plenty of butter. Our Caprese salad arrived first; fresh mozzarella and slices of vine-ripe tomatoes laid across a bed of mixed greens. Drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and torn basil leaves it was seriously good. They were nice enough to divide the ravioli among two plates; tender pasta pillows with a spinach and ricotta filling, covered in a cream sauce that had a hint of tomato sauce….scrumptious!

We began the drive back westward; before setting out on the journey home we stopped in the neighboring city of Lakewood. We thought it would be nice to take a walk and burn off some calories. The homes in the area are fantastic! Of course the closer you are to the lake, the more incredible they become. Like Detroit, the Clevelanders of the industrial age had money to burn, and what better way to show off than with a grand home. We parked the car on Lake Ave; the street is tree-lined, ornate old apartment buildings are intermixed with distinct homes varying in size from modest to very large. Houses wear tile roofs and sport lush green lawns and professional landscapes. We took a perpendicular street over one street closer to Lake Erie, Edgewater; here the houses grow larger and can be referred to as estates. Usually made of brick or stone it is not uncommon to see a turret, elaborate doorways, large urns and stone statues, window boxes overflow with colorful annuals. Many of the houses are historic and were built by the finest craftsmen of the day. The neighborhood sits upon a high bluff overlooking Lake Erie; these homes have a picturesque view of the smallest of the Great Lakes right out their back door. It is absolutely wonderful to wander through, I like to imagine what the homes look like inside.

Heading back to Detroit we continue to follow the lake through Lakewood, Rocky River and Bay Village enjoying a lake view until just east of Lorain. Here we drop south to Amherst and continue westward through Ohio farm country, finally going north to the mitten state. Our time in Cleveland was a blast; we revisited old favorites and found new ones. By freeway it takes under three hours from here to there, making it a perfect weekend getaway. Go see for yourself!

Tags: cleveland museum of art, cleveland museum of natural history, Cleveland Ohio, cleveland roadtrip, etna little italy, lakewood ohio, University Circle

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Categories Road Trips, Visit

Cleveland Again: Random Acts of Relaxation

22 Jun

We began our day with a drive through the Rocky River Reservation, our favorite portion of the Emerald Necklace; a parkway linking together 16 parks encircling the City of Cleveland. The view is picturesque; the area dense with mature trees such as Willows, Sycamores and Cottonwoods. The road winds through the natural area mimicking the river’s path; massive shale cliffs provide a breathtaking background. Here in southeast Michigan the landscape is flat; the glaciers were much kinder to Cleveland, providing wonderful elevation changes and fantastic scenery. The road takes you through deep flood plains, forests and meadows, lovely bridges span the water and antique looking overpasses rise overhead. At Berea we park the car and walk out to the Berea Falls scenic overlook, what a view! We found the trail that takes you right down to the water; huge rocks rise out of the riverbed, making it the perfect vantage point to take it all in.The reservation also includes a marina, stables, bridle trails, three golf courses and a nature center, which we popped into. It was hard to get back in the car, but we had so much more to do! We took the same route back the way we came, driving the leisurely speed limit that allows you to relax and enjoy the ride.

Lunch time had arrived and we wanted to try a place we had driven by the day before in the Detroit Shoreway District. Stone Mad located on W 65th Street caught our eye; sitting in a residential neighborhood the Irish pub features an incredible stone patio. When I say stone, I mean everything is stone, tables, seats, fountain, you get the idea. I briefly poked my head inside the restaurant, it was very attractive; beautiful black walnut paneling covers the walls, archways behind the bar are light by Chihuly light fixtures, stained glass panels decorate the space above the door and between rooms. But, on such a pretty day one must sit outdoors! One thing we mid-westerners know how to do is enjoy the outdoors every chance we get, so, patio seating it is. Choosing the table closest to the fountain we looked over the menu, all your basics are there; sandwiches, salads, appetizers and burgers. Our friendly waitress recommended the special burger of the day so we followed her advice, we paired that with a house salad, and sat back and listened to the sound of the water cascading down the fountain. For a place not on the main street they had a good lunch crowd. Our salad arrived first, fresh baby spinach, goat cheese, pickled red onions, toasted almonds and a warm currant balsamic dressing, lots of good flavors piled on a plate. Burgers are big, two can easily share; ours was topped with bacon, sautéed onions, melted Gouda, lettuce, tomato, and onion, yum!

Tremont is one of those places you could use as an example of “don’t judge a book by its cover”. The neighborhood resembles Hamtramck, but the restaurants, bars and boutiques would be perfectly at home in Birmingham. To top it off Tremont has one of the largest concentrations of architecturally notable churches to be found in any neighborhood in America. The original site of Cleveland University; it was only here from 1851 to 1853, but street names such as Literary, College, Professor and University serve as a reminder of the past. We wandered the shops and galleries taking in the art and architecture of the area, some of our favorites: The Paul Duda Gallery with its striking images of the Cleveland skyline, The Eye Candy Gallery with an eclectic mix of art in multiple media and Deering Vintage (of course) with its cool mid-century items. As a tourist you’ve got to keep up your strength; Lilly Handmade Chocolates will do the trick, the only problem being the decision process. The pieces are gorgeous, the flavor combinations awesome! We have been coming here since the shop opened and have enjoyed watching them grow, they even serve wine now. When we got thirsty it was two iced coffees over at Loop; in addition to great coffee they also sell art and records. As you can see there are a bevy of things to see and do in the neighborhood.

After a short rest at Stone Gables it was dinner in the Gordon Square Arts District. There is so much activity in this area now we wanted to see it in the evening. Part of the revamped streetscape included new lighting; our favorite part? Newly placed sidewalk benches are lit from below casting a red glow around them, very funky looking. When we were walking around the day before a few locals suggested we have a meal at XYZ The Tavern, we did. It was a mild evening, the restaurant as a wall of doorways that open out onto a side patio, so again we took advantage of outdoor dining. They were doing a brisk business, I believe a couple of the theatres had shows going on. The bar specializes in whiskey and bourbon, the kitchen, in made from scratch selections. We weren’t terribly hungry; we ordered the Chicken and Waffles from the Small Plates section of the menu, when it arrived we thought it could easily be an entrée. The waffles were a perfect golden color, crisp and tender at the same time with a wonderful malty flavor, dipped in warm syrup they were delectable! The chicken was equally good, boneless chunks of breast meat; crispy outside, juicy inside, dip it in the side of gravy to really indulge. All of the flavors really work well together. We threw in a side of the cheesy grits which were excellent. Service was fast and friendly and prices reasonable, I can see why XYZ is so popular.

Heading back to the bed and breakfast, we remembered another place we wanted to check out, so we decided to end the evening with drinks at the Tremont Tap House on Scranton Rd. The historic Italianate building has great curb appeal; inside exposed brick walls, hardwood floors and a 40ft concrete bar give the place an industrial feeling. We took a couple of seats at the bar and looked over the extensive beer menu; over 100 beers with 48 on draft! The Taphouse is Clevelands first gastropub; the food looked great, but we were just here for drinks. I chose a porter (which just happened to be from Michigan) and Kris a V O and Coke. The bartender delivered our drinks and started up conversation, ah ha, we found another person who likes Detroit, as a matter of fact he was heading to the D the following morning. Between waiting on patrons we asked Jay about his favorite Cleveland places and we told him our favorites back home. Another couple arrived, sitting a few seats away from us at the bar, they joined the conversation. We sat and sipped our drinks enjoying both the company and the atmosphere; at the end of the night we exchanged cards and emails, Jay and I exchanged lists of cool places to check out when in each other’s cities. We had found ourselves another place to come back to on our next visit.

Tags: Cleveland Metroparks, Rocky River Reservation, Stone Mad Pub, Tremont, Tremont Tap House

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Categories Road Trips, Visit

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