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DETROIT: Lunch, Library & Leisure

2 Feb

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The first thing on our Friday agenda  was lunch at Supino Pizzeria in Eastern Market. We easily found street parking, and were relieved to find open seats available. This tiny space has a big reputation for excellent real Italian-style pizza. Order at the counter; selections are written on chalk boards. There are two varieties: Red, which comes with sauce and white which has no sauce. Choose from one of the many tempting selections such as The Supino with roasted garlic, black olives, chili oil, ricotta and mozzarella or the Bismark, it has fresh mozzarella, prosciutto, and egg. There’s the always delicious Margherita: fresh basil, fresh mozzarella, tomatoes and Parmigiano  or our choice Primavera: tomatoes, artichoke, eggplant, onion, spinach and mozzarella.  Or create your own, pies come in two sizes, 12″ or 18″.

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We took a seat at a small table in the window and waited for our food to arrive. The space is set up in community fashion; long wooden tables encourage strangers to sit side by side and engage in conversation. It has a laid back, funky, market feel to it; black and white checkered floor, upside down wash tubs serve as light fixtures, large pieces of art work hang on the walls. The clientele runs the gamut from suburbanite and business professional to locals. Our salad arrived quickly, topped with homemade Lemon-Basil Citroneette, it was very tasty. The pizza followed shortly, the hand stretched dough took on more of a free form shape as opposed to the typical circle. Cut into four large slices, the crust has an initial crunch followed by a chewy deliciousness that only comes from great dough. The toppings are proportioned nicely, just enough of everything. It was mid afternoon and although the dining area had cleared out, there was still a steady stream of folks picking up a slice or a whole pizza to go. It can be crazy busy on market days, but they are open during the week too. Next time you’re in the mood for some really good pizza think Supino!

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The Main branch of the Detroit Public Library was built in 1921. Designed by Cass Gilbert in the early Italian Renaissance Style, this place is gorgeous!  The original entrance of this large stone building rests below beautiful archways that overlook Woodward Avenue. Once inside you will notice the richly painted ornate ceiling, tall columns  and stairways, this lets you know that it is an important building. To the right is the HYPE Teen Center, individuals sit at available computers, as groups of youngsters gather together to play a video game or just catch up on the days events. Many areas of the library have been updated such as this space, without disturbing the original integrity of the architecture. In this room you’ll find a fireplace with a stunning tile surround and above that the Pictoral Map Of Michigan by Frederick J Wiley completed in 1923. Within the mural you will find the two Latin Mottoes: Si Quaeris Peninsulam Amoenam Circumspice and Tamen Fit Surculus Arbor, which translate into “If you seek a pleasant peninsula, look about you” the present motto of Michigan, and “The shoot at length becomes a tree” the motto of Michigan when still a territory.

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Next walk up to the third floor, pay attention to the detail in the ceiling on your way up; look carefully and you can find the seals of the City of Detroit, the state of Michigan, the United States and the University of Michigan, it’s absolutely amazing! On the third floor is Adam Strom Hall, here you will find another series of murals along the East and West walls. Whenever we come up here we like to take a seat on one of the benches to sit and stare for a while. Grand light fixtures strung from chains hang from the ceiling, stained glass windows are embellished with colorful scenes, ceiling panels glisten as light reflects off  gold-painted rosettes. It’s all very intricate and awe-inspiring. The murals tell the story from the days of Cadillac’s landing to the evolution of man’s mobility. Walk around the third floor hallways and take it all in, get a good look at the grand staircase murals. When your neck has had enough it’s time to move on and forward in time to the North and South wings that were added in 1963.

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Immediately you will recognize the clean lines and signature accents of Modern architecture. Here you will find large glass windows, brass railings in straight lines or circular patterns, wood panels and lush green plants. The space becomes bright, light and airy. In this section you will find the Burton Historical Collection. The emphasis here is placed on the history of Detroit and Michigan from the time of settlement in the 17th Century to the present. It also includes the Great Lakes area, New England, New France, the US and Canada.  The Burton collection is mind-boggling; from the Ernie Harwell Collection to the original manuscript of Huck Finn and Tom Sawyer Among The Indians to original pictures, drawings and manuscripts donated to the library from Laura Ingalls Wilder, you could spend an entire day right here. If you’re researching your family tree chances are you’ll find information here they house church records of baptisms, marriages, deaths, records from the military, immigration, obituaries and land records. All materials are reference and cannot leave the reading room, so plan on spending some time here when you visit. If you’re looking for rare books, first editions, vintage postcards, maps or photographs, they have it all.  Be sure and step outside to view the incredible mosaics above the Cass entrance.

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Time for a little coffee break. We did a post earlier in the year on Chez Zara located on Woodward near Campus Martius, since that time they have closed that location and opened a kiosk’s in the lobby of the Chase Tower.  I have always liked the looks of this building; designed by Albert Kahn and built in 1959 it is definitely a great example of Modern Design. Purchased by Dan Gilbert in April of 2011 the building has undergone some sprucing up.  We came in through the Woodward entrance, the contrast between the white of the walls and bright paint colors is really eye-catching, it works with all the natural sunlight streaming in the windows. The first floor is being transformed into a bit of a public space; casual seating areas are arranged around the perimeter, funky modern furniture invites you to sit and relax. A wonderful collection of automotive themed artwork from paintings to sculptures was on display. We went straight to Chez Zara to order our drinks, I stuck with their signature Nutella Latte; you just can’t go wrong with that choice, rich espresso with a hint of hazelnut and chocolate, creamy, warm and sweet goodness from first sip to last. Kris had straight espresso. We took our beverages over to a nearby seating area with a table and chairs overlooking the street scene. What a nice way to kick back and enjoy a little leisure time.  Chez Zara is open Monday thru Friday for your coffee drinking pleasure.

UPDATE: Chez Zara has closed permanently.

 

Christmas At Historic Trinity, Elwood Bar & Grill

3 Jan

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Located on Gratiot near Eastern Market is Historic Trinity Lutheran Church. Each December on the Saturday before Christmas they hold a Christmas Open House and German  Market; we have gone a few times now, and I look forward to it every year. The architectural style of the church is 16th Century Pier-and Clerestory Gothic, it is opulent, magnificent and impressive. Erected in 1931, it has been the cathedral church for Detroit Lutheranism since its inception. The building is constructed of granite and Indiana limestone, the tower itself is a copy of the tower of the Monastery of Erfurt Germany, and soars 104 feet into the sky.

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Once inside you will find the beauty of the church awe-inspiring. The alter rises 24 feet high and is the focal point; oak is intricately carved depicting bible figures and stories, the alter stone and baptismal font made of Botticino Marble from Italy are elegant. The light fixtures are amazing, large in stature and majestic looking they came from the Martin-Gibson Company of Detroit. The stained glass windows are incredible; designed and made by Henry Lee Willet of the Willet Glass Company of Philadelphia, the colors are vibrant jewel-tones that vary in intensity with the exterior light, the contrast between the stone walls and multi-colored windows is striking. The “Ruth” window is the only one of the twelve windows that bears Henry Willet’s signature. The Nave seats 300, if you have a seat in one of the pews you will notice all figures and decoration are scaled above eye-level, it was planned this way as to not distract from the ceremony of mass, I have to admit, I would still find myself looking up and about at the splendor of my surroundings. The original organ, a Skinner from Boston sits above in a loft, the organ pipes are are mounted on the wall to the left. To our delight the organist played Christmas melodies, treating us to the sounds only a pipe organ can make. The ceiling is a masterpiece of wood beams hand painted in traditional German patterns, get a good look at them from the second level.

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Being the Christmas season, the church decorations are glorious! Holiday banners jut out from the side walls of the nave, a towering Christmas tree sits near the alter decked out in multi-color L E D lights, it is quite a sight. The decorations continue throughout the church; all together there are over 50 decorated Christmas Trees, 650 Angels, 250 Creches, and a variety of other decorations and doll houses.  This is all spread out over several levels, be sure and go up to the organ loft, the overview of the church is stunning. The Christmas German Market is located on the second level, and worth every stair you climb. Large round tables are set up giving you a chance to sit and indulge in the free cookies, coffee and punch provided. A table selling traditional Christmas goodies such as Stollen and Strudel is always surrounded by eager customers waiting in line to buy some to take home to family and friends. Other tables sell specialty foods and imported items, you can even sit down and learn to make German paper crafts. Music was being played by the Motor City Sax Quartet and gave the room a festive feel.

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There are many hallways and rooms to wander through, we like to take our time so we don’t miss anything. Tiny details are everywhere; a pretty light fixture at the end of a hall, Pewabic Pottery tiles scattered about in the floor, the stone pulpit and brass collection plates. The acoustics of the church are wonderful, I can only imagine how terrific a choir would sound. If you ever have the chance to visit, don’t pass it up.

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The Elwood Bar and Grill is a 1936 Art Deco diner that sits on the corner of Adams and Brush behind the Comerica Park scoreboard. Originally located at the corner of Elizabeth and Woodward, which is how it got its name: El(izabeth)Wood(ward), owner Chuck Forbes had it moved in 1997 to it’s present location to make room for Comerica Park. This place is great! From the exterior of cream and blue enameled steel to the interior of light wood, terazzo entry way and globe shaped light fixtures, this place screams Art Deco. We parked for free at the adjacent parking structure and went inside for some lunch. After we arrived it started to get busy, as their was a matinee at the Gem/Century theatre. We sat at a high-top table near the window and looked over the menu, we decided on the Sunrise Salad: baby spinach and spring mix, topped with cashews, almonds, mandarin oranges, blood oranges and poppy seed dressing; the portion was large and it was very tasty. We also had the Club sandwich served on  herb foccacia: along with the usual “club” fillings they put a wasabi aoli on it for a nice kick. The sandwich was large, enough to split, along with a generous portion of fresh hand-cut fries, soooo goood! The place underwent a complete restoration after it was moved; from the unique enameled steel fascade to the interior, Chuck Forbes always does things right. When you enter Elwood there is a cool terazzo floor with the year 1936 inlaid, if you look up there is a recessed map showing the streets of downtown where Forbes owns properties in the city; The Gem and Century, The Palms/State/Fillmore, The Colony Club and of course The Elwood. On a nice day you can sit outdoors, even better when the Tigers are in town, you can hear the game from the patio. Be sure and check the website for hours as they change from season to season. Next time you’re looking for a one-of-a-kind place for a meal, a snack, or a drink, check out the Elwood Bar and Grill. 

Ferndale Funky Finds

7 Dec

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Thanksgiving had passed, to get in the holiday shopping mode we took a drive over to downtown Ferndale. Located off the Woodward corridor this hip, urban city has a little bit of everything. Earlier in the year The Rust Belt Market took over the space formerly occupied by the Old Navy Outlet, we have been curious to see what it is all about, so it was our first stop.  It was pouring rain, like every other car driving around we were hoping for a close parking place, we found one not too far from the entrance. We noticed many other people heading to the Belt and wondered if there was something special going on inside. 

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Pass through the entrance and you immediately know that yes, there is something special going on. A young couple took this large, mundane retail space and have worked a little magic. Completely unrecognizable as it’s former chain retail self, the interior has been transformed into a year round home for artists and entrepreneurs. A platform sits near the center and is a stage for musicians who perform each weekend. When we arrived a young woman with a lovely voice sat at the piano and played her songs; the volume was perfect, you could clearly enjoy her performance and still carry on a conversation with vendors.  This is no Flea Market or Consignment Shop, there are no cheap or imported goods sold at the Belt. The vendors are hand picked, each vendor or shop, as I like to think of it, is run by the owner; the people who make the product are the same ones selling it. 

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I was completely taken in as soon as I came in the door; the set-up is very appealing, each little shop has it’s own distinct look, the aisles are easy to navigate without being set up in straight rows, the variety is fantastic. The goods offered are high quality and unique, yes there are vintage items but they are collections sold by people who collect and curate full time. Artists sell stunning paintings and photography, designers of jewelry and clothing show off their talents, one shop sells americana and vintage items unique to Michigan and Detroit; how about a candle made from an old Town Club pop bottle? I saw jewelery made from typewriter keys and old silverware, gorgeous carved clay tiles, handmade soaps and lip balms inspired by classic cocktails, people are so creative!

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No market is complete without edible offerings, we grabbed some cookies from Butter & Flour & Sugar, oatmeal white chocolate with cranberries, Yum ! The Belt is also home to Henrietta Haus Coffee Roasters, Perkins Pickles, Pete’s chocolate from Hamtramck, and the place that stopped me in my tracks: Rock City Pies…..Yes, I literally stopped and stared at these awe-inspiring pies for about a minute, then of course I took a step closer so I could look some more. Whole pies are displayed in covered glass plates, you can buy them by the slice or take a whole one home. If I remember correctly they had Pecan Bourbon, Salted Caramel Apple, Pumpkin Whiskey, and a Cranberry something, it had a few slices removed revealing extraordinary height and a beautiful cranberry colored filling, how’s a person supposed to choose? We hadn’t had dinner yet, so we forced ourselves to walk away and continue considering our options. 

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I have to say The Rust Belt Market was a wonderful surprise to me, what a fantastic arrangement; 30 vendors every weekend, live music, amazing edibles and endless gift possibilities. I also appreciate the fact that for every dollar I spend here 100% stays in the local economy. The market is open Saturday and Sunday from 11-7, and an occasional Friday for a special event.   I will definitely be back.

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Looking at all the food made us realize how hungry we were, The Blue Nile just a ways down 9 Mile was calling our names. The restaurant is very attractive inside, soft lighting, beautiful woodwork,and the bright colors and art work of Ethiopia. If you’ve never had Ethiopian food, I highly recommend it; before you try it there are a few things you need to know: First, everyone eats from the same platter, basically it resembles an extra large round pizza pan, it has a layer of injera (Ethiopian bread made from Teff and water) which is then covered by mounds of specialty dishes. Second, you do not use silverware; this is where the injera comes in. Along with the platter you receive a basket of what appears to be large, very thin undercooked pancakes torn in half and folded. This is your fork; tear off a piece, hold it in your hand and scoop up one of the many delicious dishes. We go vegetarian here; yellow split peas cooked till tender in berbere sauce, collard greens, mixed vegetables including potatoes, carrots and green beans, I think the split red lentils are my favorite, delicious with a kick of spice. Don’t hesitate to just dig in and try everything, each dish is unique and flavorful. Kris has to have the Honey Wine with his meal, he says it compliments the seasonings of the vegetables perfectly. I am crazy about the Ethiopian Spiced Tea, there is no cane sugar in Ethiopia so they use a mixture of ingredients like Rose Hips, Cinnamon, Chamomile and citrus peel to make the tea naturally sweet, I like it both hot and cold. When you order the vegeterian feast they will bring you as much as you want, we had 2 servings of everything. Getting out of the booth we realized we should have stopped eating sooner…

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A little window shopping was in order to try and walk off some of the fullness. Ferndale has a great mix of unique and independent shops; from apparel and jewelry to health food and home  furnishings the shopping is plentiful. There’s a great store called Mother Fletchers, recently having moved a few spaces from their original location, they  specialize in vintage clothing and accessories. I love walking up and down the aisles browsing through their well organized selection of goods.  After wandering in and out of storefronts we found ourselves back at Rust Belt Market standing in front of, you guessed it, Rock City Pies. As full as we were visions of pie kept taunting us. Lucky for us the market was still open, though there wasn’t even a crumb left of the cranberry, Salted Caramel Apple was still available. We had a piece wrapped to go and made the drive home. Later that evening we indulged in our purchase, scrumptious! The top crust was chewy and almost cookie like, covered with melted caramel and coarse salt, it works perfectly with the sweetness of the thinly sliced apples, this choice was a winner. 

Shopping in Ferndale is fun, come see for yourself!


Cranbrook Art Museum, Village of Franklin

16 Nov

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After two years and much anticipation, the Cranbrook Art Museum re-opened 11-11-11 with their first exhibition in the renovated space. Designed by Eliel and Eero Saarinen and opened in 1942 the museum was due for some sprucing up. Additionally the museum was expanded by 20,000 sq. ft. with the attachment of the new collections wing. To celebrate the grand re-opening the museum is offering expanded hours and tours, lectures and events for 11 days, and each day the museum will be open for, you guessed it, 11 hours.These special tours are only offered until November 21, don’t miss your chance to see the vault! Kris was itching to get in an old car and go for a scenic drive; between the two lane roads, magnificent homes, and remaining fall color, a trip out to Bloomfield Hills fit the bill perfectly.

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We didn’t know what to expect when we got to Cranbrook, would there be parking, would there be a line to get it, would it be so crowded we wouldn’t be able to see anything if we did get in? We were pleasantly surprised when we found a great parking spot right by the museum, and then again, when we walked right in. Our timing was right on, as there was a tour of the vault, aka the collections wing at 1pm. The new exhibit is called “No object is an Island”, it was an interesting pairing of artists who previously went to Cranbrook with today’s contemporary artists.

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We had just enough time to finish looking around when the guide gathered us together to go down to the vault. It was all very surreal to me, like being in some Hollywood film where a big heist is about to take place. We entered through the curved steel door to the faint sound of a tripped alarm in the background. The door slid closed behind us and we started our walk down the concrete block hallway. It is all so modern and high-tech looking,  a grey maze of dimly lit hallways, the ceiling has a cage like covering suspended over it, art objects are displayed in small rooms behind a glass walls, it feels very futuristic. We were taken into different rooms where the collections are stored; the brilliance of the new wing is that whatever is not on view in the museum is stored in a manner where it can be easily accessed and observed by students and the public community when desired. It was a fascinating tour.

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We continued our lovely drive, stopping in at the Village of Franklin. This tiny enclave oozes charm, from the historic homes to the quaint shops, it’s hard to pass through town without stopping. We were ready for lunch and the Franklin Grill and Tavern looked very inviting. Built in the 1840’s the building was originally home to the local carriage and blacksmith shop, the uses changed over the years and in 2001 it became the grill. The building is painted barn red with pretty white trim, the outside is adorned in Autumn decor. The inside has a sort of rustic-contemporary feel to it, a wood rafter ceiling and the same barn red colored walls works well and feels very comfortable. The menu changes with the seasons, and supports Michigan farmers. Everything sounded delicious, and every plate that went by made us rethink our selection. Finally we settled on the Art of Sicily sandwich; artichokes, mushrooms, spinach, and red onion all grilled and placed on a wonderful focaccia bread then topped with mozzarella and a balsamic marinade, it was sooooo good! Served alongside were the best sweet potato fries I have ever eaten. Thick, steak cut pieces of sweet potato, so crispy on the outside, there was a nice crunch biting into them, yet moist and tender on the inside. The Turkey Stretch salad was wonderful too; roasted turkey breast cut into thick strips placed on a bed of fresh baby spinach, sprinkled with toasted walnuts, dried cherries, the perfect amount of goat cheese and a tasty chive vinaigrette, it was outstanding. $8 for the sandwich and $12 for the salad, not bad, the quality of food is worth it. It was a really nice experience, the staff was great, the atmosphere relaxing, and a menu that left us wanting to come back soon.

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We left the car parked in the back parking lot and walked over to the Franklin Cider Mill. Completed in 1837, the mill has been a staple of Franklin for generations and has a huge local following. We make at least one trip here each Fall, you are always guaranteed hot donuts and great cider. The outside has that great cider mill appeal; quaint historic structure situated on a river, offering everything from apples, jams, local honey, caramel and candy apples and Michigan squash to pies, scones, breads, and their famous cinnamon spice donuts. They only serve the one kind of donut here, which makes it easy for people who have a hard time making up their mind. We purchased our donuts which were handed over to us in a brown paper bag, you could feel the heat coming through. By the time we made our way outdoors to eat them, a small grease stain had formed on the bottom of the bag, assuring us that they would be excellent! We ate two each and washed them down with cups of cider. Standing on the small wooden deck with an empty  cup in one had and remnants of donut on the other, I looked around the place; dozens of mallards floating in the river waiting to be fed, the last remnants of Autumn color in the trees, hold out stacks of pumpkins and cornstalks and the combined scent of apples and fried donuts in the air. Wearing only a light jacket in November, going for one last ride in an old car for the season; it doesn’t get much better than this.

New Center Park, Hot Club of Detroit, The Bronx Bar

6 Sep

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Detroit’s newest entertainment venue is New Center Park, located across from the fabulous Fisher Building on West Grand Blvd and Second Ave, this outdoor urban space is delightful! We went down for the Thursday Jazz & Blues; arriving about 10 minutes before the 6pm start time, street parking was plentiful, and there was no lack of wide open lawn seating. Orange folding chairs are available for your use, many bring their own or simply spread out a blanket. The amphitheater like park can easily accommodate hundreds on the gently sloping lawn. Tall trees provide needed shade while planters filled with flowers add color to the landscape, historic buildings make an eye catching backdrop for it all. Activity surrounds the park, cars drive up and down the boulevard, dogs are being walked by owners curious to see what the all the activity is about, nurses from nearby Henry Ford Hospital have a listen and a snack before heading home.

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Hot Club of Detroit was the evenings entertainment, they are incredible! Their music is pure pleasure for your ears, to watch them play a thrill for your eyes, the guitarists play with amazing speed. They had a female vocalist join them for this performance; she sang in french as her crystal clear voice got carried away in the gentle wind of the summer evening. It was one of those blistering hot days that transforms into a perfect night; cool grass beneath your feet, intoxicating music filling the air, time passes easily.

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Opposite the stage is a bar; enclosed on all sides by glass doors this paprika colored room offers bar and table seating, restrooms are found here too. The alfresco cafe menu is perfect for the venue; appetizers like chips and salsa, crudites and dip or hummus with pita wedges, also available are four sandwiches, salads and nachos, and of course a full bar. Food and beverage purchases are what support the facility and allow all the entertainment to be FREE, no coolers here. New Center Park hosts a variety of events such as the Wednesday Lunch Series, Wednesday Night At The Movies, and Thursday Jazz and Blues, check the website for details.

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The Bronx Bar is a Midtown mainstay, located on Second Ave, word is they have great burgers. It was still kind of early for the bar crowd to file in, so we thought we’d drop in. Walking in your  immediate observation will be that it is dark, very dark, but once your eyes adjust you notice the personality of the place; vintage ceramic tile covers the walls, the wood is stained dark and varnished in high gloss. Posters of Jean Harlow and Raquel Welch compete for every males attention. Tiffany lamps hang from the ceiling providing only dim light. The side by side jukeboxes are legendary for the wide variety of music selections.  Order at the bar and then have a seat, wanting to soak up as much of the pleasant evening as possible we sat outside. Before long our food arrived; a club sandwich with turkey shaved thin and piled high, crispy bacon, mayo, lettuce and tomato served on a delicious bun. The blackbean burger was out of this world; a slice of pepperjack cheese to give it a kick, next a stack of spinach then topped off with sliced ripe tomato, a wonderful mix of flavors. Unable to decide between fries and onion rings we got a half order of each; the fries were fresh cut, crispy and delicious, the onion rings were the small rings fried to a perfect crunch. Definitely a step above your average “bar food”, many items are homemade. Bronx is within walking distance to Wayne State and seems to be a popular hang out for students and hipsters alike. Most weekends you can’t even get in the place, if it seems like someplace you’d like to try I’d say the earlier the better. Prices are fair, portions are good and the bartender was helpful and friendly. 

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Gratiot Central Market, Roma Cafe, Germack, Mootown Creamery

15 Jun

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Eastern Market is without a doubt one of my favorite places in Detroit! Three of my best-loved activities; gardening, cooking, and shopping are all represented here….extensively. At this location since 1891 it is the oldest and largest open-air Farmers Market in the US, so it will take a few posts to describe all of the great things to do in the Eastern Market District. Come on down and check it out!

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Today we’ll start at the south end at Gratiot Central Market. If you like meat, you will be in heaven. The main aisle-way is lined with vendors such as; Randy’s Sausage, Wigley’s Corned Beef, and Ronnies Meats displaying their finest cuts of meat, I have never seen so many ribs in one place. Of course they have T-bones and porterhouse,ground beef and chicken, but add to that list; chicken feet, goat,oxtail, salt pork, rabbit and tripe. Small shops sell BBQ supplies and seasonings,there’s take out food and a fish market too. I love the cheese shop, you can purchase items from Calder Dairy here, I have a tip for you: Buy the Chocolate Milk…….  If you like to barbecue bring along a cooler because you’ll want to stock up, prices are easy on the wallet. 

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Walking down the Fisher Fwy service drive we poked our heads into Art Effect Gallery, they were getting ready for their Grand Opening that same evening, looking forward to stopping in next time we’re at the Market. A little further down on the corner of the service drive and Russell St is the Germack company’s store. Germack is the oldest roaster of pistachio nuts in the US. If you have a thing for pistachios either red or natural you’ve hit the jackpot! They sell a large variety of nuts and seeds along with delicious snack mixes,we purchased the Asian ZenSation mix, mmmmmmm, definitely stop in.

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Busy Bee Hardware located on the corner of Gratiot and Russell since 1918 has been in the same family for three generations. This is a real hardware store, if you need to repair something at home chances are you can find what you need right here. The store is a mix of old and new, it is somewhat a general mercantile with antique cabinets, a couple of vintage washing machines on display, and the only rope operated elevator in the city. The sign outside advertised pickle crocks, they still sell vegetable seeds like the old days, you can have a key made, and if you’re lucky, one of the owners will tell you a story or two. The place is great, seriously, you have to come in and walk around.

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All that shopping made us hungry, Roma Cafe, Detroit’s oldest Italian restaurant sits nearby on Riopelle, they have been serving classic Italian dishes since 1890. From the decor to the menu the atmosphere is unquestionably  old-time. Waiters wearing tuxedos serve you crusty bread with real butter, salads are prepared in the dining room where you can watch the action. We ordered Cannelloni and a Roma salad, the salad was really good, crisp lettuce, nice chunks of meat and peppers, seasoned with salt and pepper. The canneloni was excellent, tender meat filling in perfectly cooked pasta all smothered in red sauce and topped off with melted mozzarella, delicious.  

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There’s a new ice cream place on Russell St, so we had to save room for dessert! Mootown Creamery & More recently opened next door to Supino’s Pizza, which works out perfectly for both establishments. The store is just charming, walls are painted pastel mint green with a white tin ceiling, tables are also white with pastel colored chairs, somehow this place has the feeling of being in a beach town….really. Large beautiful posters of ice cream cones dress the main wall. Mootown serves Hudsonville Ice Cream made in Holland Michigan, the rear of the store is a gift shop with plenty of pretty things to catch your eye. It is the perfect addition to Eastern Market.

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Corktown Home Tour, Mudgie’s Deli

10 Jun

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Every June we look forward to the Historic Corktown Home Tour. Unlike a lot of the other historic neighborhoods in Detroit, Corktown is mostly made up of workers homes but don’t be fooled by their modest exteriors , you will be surprised if not stunned by what awaits inside! The interiors are not elaborate, this is not an area you find crystal chandeliers, marble floors, pewabic tile or third floor ballrooms, which in my opinion makes it all the more interesting!

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The original settlers here were Irish immigrants who largely came from County Cork, which of course is how it got its name. As a matter of fact, by the mid 19th century the Irish were the largest ethnic group in Detroit. Corktown is Detroit’s oldest neighborhood, established in 1834, it was put on the National Register of Historic Places in 1978.

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Homes here can be very deceiving, from the front many of them look quite small, but look down the side and you will see  that they are also very long. There is a mixture of architectural styles here, some two stories with Queen Ann influences, tiny worker cottages reflecting a bit of the federalist style are also a common sight. Since there are not a lot of interior details each owner can make it their own. Being able to walk through the houses is a real treat, you never know what you will find behind the front door. There are Victorian treasures with lovely tiled fireplaces, the very contemporary with bright red walls, vintage with great 50’s glass works and furniture, and modern with exposed wooden beams and free form counters. It’s an eclectic array of styles and personalities.  VIEW PHOTOS HERE

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Conveniently located on the corner of Porter and Brooklyn is Mudgie’s Deli, the perfect place for us to have lunch. We have known the owner Greg for many years, he does a great job with the place from its cheery orange walls and vintage tin ceiling to the artisan sandwiches, homemade soups and salads. The menu features many local products and vegan selections as well. Our “usual” is the Ivey; a delicious vegetarian sandwich with Greg’s house-made spinach spread, avocado, and an assortment of veggies, topped off with cheese and sunflower sprouts, along with a house salad it’s enough for two. The house specialty desserts are waffles, either the Fudgie Mudgie, or the Sweet Ruth, we went with Ruth. A warm bread pudding waffle, Calder Dairy Butter pecan ice cream melting into the indentations, and decadent caramel sauce, all topped off with whipped cream and a dusting of cinnamon, lip-smacking good!

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We had finished touring the homes, but had one last stop on the tour; Most Holy Trinity Roman Catholic Church. Most Holy Trinity parish was established in 1834 for the large Irish influx of the 1830’s, the current, larger building was built in 1855.  The interior comprises a nave and two side aisles divided by rows of Gothic arches. The rear balcony was added in 1890 and is where the 1867 tracker organ rests, it is the oldest existing organ built in the US, and the oldest still in it’s original location. We were lucky enough to have the pleasure of hearing the organist play as we walked the aisles of the church taking in the stained glass windows and magnificent architecture. Kris even got to go up in the tower and ring the church bells.

Corktown is a vital and stable community, residents are close knit and take pride in their property. In addition to the wonderful homes there are a number of restaurants and bars in this neck of the woods, with more to come in the near future, we’ll let you know !

Unexpected Hamtramck ; Polish Disneyland, Art Center & Maria’s Comida

8 Jun

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There are hidden gems all throughout Detroit & its metro area, today I am going to tell you about “Polish Disneyland”. Make your way to Caniff then North on Klinger and just before it takes a jog at Carpenter go left in the alley ….yep the alley, make another quick left and look up! A man by the name of Dmytro Szylak is the creator of this fantasy-land perched upon two garage rooftops. It is a collection of found and homemade objects whimsically arranged in a way that just makes you smile. Come check it out.

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The Polish Art Center on Jos Campau was our next stop, I adore this enchanting shop where all things Polish can be found, seriously, if it’s Polish they have it. Books, maps and travel guides are nearest the entrance, about mid-store is one of my favorite areas, the food! Packages of cookies, jams, and candy in pretty packaging all calling to you to give them a try. There is one item I cannot resist, and if you like dark chocolate you MUST buy one. It’s a large rectangular chocolate bar in a cream and red wrapper made by E. Wedel , break off a square and let it melt in your mouth and you’ll know exactly what I mean. There is a beautiful array of Christmas ornaments and dolls, stoneware, amber and silver jewelry and music. I really enjoy walking around and looking at everything. This place is a mainstay in the Polish community, the owners are super friendly and helpful and very much involved in preserving Polish culture and traditions.

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Time for lunch. Maria’s Comida, also on Jos Campau, is a restaurant that quickly worked it’s way up on our list of favorites. A Mexican restaurant in Poletown may sound a bit unusual, but that’s not all, they actually serve Mexican Asian Fusion!? Everyone here is treated like a regular and come to think of it they probably are, because once you’ve eaten here; you’re coming back. The space is modern and attractive, have a seat and look over the menu. We are hooked on the Chorizo & Chicken Burrito, you have to have the gazpacho green beans with it, so good. The Tres Leches Cake is the best we’ve had, the food here rocks! Keep an eye out, their homemade Salsa and awesome BBQ sauce are coming to a store near you. UPDATE: Maria’s Comida restaurant closed on August 18 2012. The space will be used as a manufacturing facility to continue producing Maria’s homemade salsa’s and BBQ Sauce. We wish them all the best! 

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Uhhhhh, Yummmm !!

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Preservation Wayne Midtown Tour, Detroit Brewery

2 Jun

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We began our Saturday with a Preservation Wayne Tour of Midtown. We met our group at Avalon Bakery on Willis and set out on foot to explore the area.  The guides are knowledgeable and friendly, and have lots of great information. I find that I notice so many more details of buildings when I am walking, for example I had never noticed the lion heads on the Stuber-Stone building before.  My favorite street in Midtown has to be West Canfield, construction began in the 1870’s  and was home to the wealthier residents such as doctors and attorneys. The homes are exquisite and well cared for, fine examples of Queen Ann, Second Empire, and Gothic Revival reside in this district.

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We traveled down Woodward, Canfield, Second, and Willis, admired places like The Whitney, the Garfield Building, and the Historic First Congregational Church. Lofts abound, rehabbing and reusing historic structures, bringing them back to life.  There are restaurants, bars, and small boutiques, this area is truly up and coming. Tours usually last around two hours, give or take, the cost is $10 per person. Preservation Wayne offers four different walking tours each Saturday from May through September, all beginning at 10 am. The highlight of their tour season is the Historic Theatres Tour which takes place this year on August 13, it is one of the best tours I have ever been on,  it fills up quickly so be sure to sign up early.  Click on their website for more details.

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All that walking made us hungry, being in Midtown we made the short drive over to Motor City Brewing Works for Pizza and Beer.  Walking in the door we were greeted by the smiling face of a friend who had also just arrived. The three of us headed up to the deck to enjoy both the sunshine and the food.  The more the merrier I always say, that way we can have  two kinds of pizza instead of just one! We always go for the salad of the day, this one was outstanding, a nice selection of baby lettuce, blue cheese crumbles, golden raisins, grape tomatoes, and the most awesome fruity vinaigrette, we’re guessing blueberry, it was so flavorful! For Pizza we went with the BBQ Chicken and the Maui, delicious as always. The crust is that great combination of crispy and chewy, cooked in a wood burning oven.  I usually have the Honey Porter, but they were out of it, so instead I had their seasonal Cider, which was quite nice and went perfectly with the meal and the weather.

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A large group of bicyclists started to arrive after completing the Motor City Bike and Brew Tour. Having finished lunch, we cleared out to give them room, and headed over to 1515 Broadway for dessert. Coincidentally, while sitting out front enjoying iced coffee, bumpy cake, and Techno from a nearby DEMF DJ, we were surprised to run into folks from Toronto and Grand Rapids embarking on yet another group tour of downtown.

Detroit, The Tourist Mecca………..

Detroit Historical Museum, Good Girls Go To Paris, On The Rise Bakery

1 Jun

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On The Rise Bakery is located at 6110 Mc Clellan at Gratiot, it is housed in a beautiful historic yellow brick building with Pewabic tile accents. Inside you will find large round loaves of fresh-baked bread, cupcakes, muffins, several varieties of cookies the size of saucers, and much more.  It smells wonderful inside, everything looks delicious, prices are reasonable, and staff members are friendly and helpful. We were there on a late Friday morning, along with a constant flow of patrons coming and going. On The Rise is sponsored by the Capuchin Soup Kitchen; your purchase supports housing, training, counseling services, educational opportunities and self-help programs for men recently released from prison or those who have completed a substance abuse treatment program. I chose a loaf of Monastery White bread, great for sandwiches, or perfect french toast, and was not disappointed. Located outside the ‘tourist zone’ this is a fun stop for the more  adventurous.

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The Detroit Historical Museum was established in 1928 and is one of America’s oldest public museums dedicated to metropolitan history. We found a metered parking space on Kirby, there is also a pay parking lot adjacent to the building, the cost is $4.00.  As you climb the few stairs to the main level you will currently find the Fabulous 5 display, in it is one of Diana Ross’ beaded dresses, I had no idea she was that tiny. Things are still done the old-fashioned way here and it has a quaint feeling to it. If you haven’t been here in ages memories will come flooding back as you wander the Streets Of Old Detroit or marvel at the Glancy Trains. The Motor City exhibit is a multi-faceted look at Detroit’s auto industry; covering invention, assembly, labor and suppliers. The centerpiece being the assembly line featuring the Cadillac Clark Street  plant “Body Drop” acquired in 1987, and several vintage Fleetwoods.

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In addition to the permanent collection there are a number of changing exhibits. I love the current “Saying I Do” Detroit Weddings showcase, it explores the traditions surrounding weddings and marriage of different nationalities found in metro Detroit. Over the years we’ve seen: Hudsons, Historic Movie Palaces, and vintage toys to name a few. Detroiter or not come check it out.

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Good Girls Go To Paris Crepes is located right across Woodward from the museum and makes a great lunch stop. Park on the street and head inside the lipstick red walled dining space. The menu is posted on a large chalk board hanging on the wall, the Right Bank features sweet crepes, and the Left Bank savory. One of each is a nice combination, packed full of fillings these crepes are meant to be eaten with a knife and fork, large enough to share, we cut each in half and split. Our selections this time were the Janel, filled with eggs, swiss cheese, ham and pesto, and the Mary which is simply cinnamon, sugar and butter. It is astounding how something so simple can be so flavorful. Order at the counter then have a seat at one of the tables to wait for your food to arrive. Check out the French movie posters displayed on the walls, watch the activity on Woodward  through large front windows to pass the time. It can get crowded, but the line usually moves quickly and I think it’s worth the wait. UPDATE: Good Girls Go To Paris is now closed.

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