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DETROIT: Pewabic Pottery

27 Aug

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It is a lovely summer day, we have just arrived at Pewabic Pottery on Jefferson for the annual Home and Garden Show. A large tent occupies the paved parking lot, outdoors, large pieces are displayed among groupings of patio furniture, smaller pieces can be found in flower beds and along walkways. Inside the white tent, a banner hangs, this is Pewabic’s 110th Anniversary; tables are draped in turquoise blue cloths, topiary’s act as centerpieces, signature Pewabic pieces and t-shirts are available for purchase. Artist’s tables line the enclosed space, we start from the back and work our way forward. Tiles are a popular item, one table features flowers such as Tulips, Daisies and Poppies, another table is lined with clay pieces shaped like Ginko leaves, the glaze is fabulous, going from milky to metallic. Motawi Tileworks has a fanciful selection of Arts and Crafts style pieces, I like the one with the bunny. Further on, plates, nesting bowls, vases and cups feel free-form, glazed in turquoise, yellow and peach, they make me want to buy all new dishware. A tall tile reflects an up north scene, complete with a Pine tree, sand dunes and a lake in the distance. The next factory tour is about to begin, time to go inside.

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Pewabic Pottery was founded in 1903 by Mary Chase Perry Stratton, this Tudor revival style building was built in 1907 to house the factory. Pewabic is known for its vessels, tiles and architectural ornamentation for both public and private installations, Mary is known for her unique iridescent glaze. Pewabic pottery can be found throughout the United States including pieces in Washington DC, Houston, New York and the Nebraska State Capitol. The building itself is a National Historic Landmark. Let’s go in. We start at the museum store, here tiles and vesselware handcrafted by Pewabic staff members are available for sale. I see many signature pieces such as vases and tiles in colors such as blue, olive and gold. The next area belongs to the Gallery of Studio Artists, you will find a gorgeous variety of items such as mugs, vases and bowls in diverse finishes. The showroom contains tile collections, samples of tiles and glazes, this is where you would come if you were interested in having something done for your house. We climb a narrow stairway to the second floor, story boards and photos teach us the history of Pewabic Pottery and its founder Mary Chase Perry Stratton. We see an antique kiln and some of Mary’s early pieces, the room itself is quaint; leaded glass windows, black painted arches and door frames, and a stunning tile fireplace.

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We proceed to the Kiln room, this is where the firing is done. Think of a kiln as a giant oven that heats up to about 2300 degrees F, it bakes the soft clay pieces called greenware into a hardened piece called bisque, bisque is then glazed (painted) and fired again, the end result, the beautiful items displayed in the store. On the right are two “car” kilns, our guide points out tracks on the floor, kilns are pulled out on these tracks to be opened.  On the left is a fancy computerized version called an envelope kiln, I have to imagine it gets pretty hot in here when the kilns are on. Pewabic makes their own clay, in liquid form it is called slip. We walk through the clay making area, stopping to see the belt-driven equipment, original to the building and used by Mary herself. They make 1500 pounds of clay per week! Further on we enter the Glaze room, all glazes are made here, shelves are lined with five-gallon pails filled with different colors. Glazes are applied by spraying, dipping or hand painting; tiles are usually sprayed, while vessels are usually dipped.  Rolling racks are filled with glazed pieces ready to go into the kiln, the colors are a mystery to me at this point, as they completely change and come to life in the firing process.

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In the tile pressing area a woman is showing us how a tile is made, a square chunk of clay is placed in a plaster mold, working with her thumbs she presses the clay evenly into the mold. She picks up a different mold that has been sitting about a half hour and gently coaxes the tile out by tapping it on the table, an image of a bumblebee surrounded by a honeycomb pattern appears. When the clay is completely dry the piece is cleaned and placed on a rack, when enough pieces are ready they will be loaded into the kiln and fired. We end our tour upstairs with a visit to the Education studio, this is where classes and workshops are held. The room is lined with works-in-progress, students work at tables and benches, there is a small classroom area for children. There is no class today, but a few students are hard at work. Downstairs we pass through the store area once more, there are so many beautiful things to look at.

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We decided to choose somewhere close to have lunch, Andrews On The Corner is just down the road on Jos Campau at Atwater. The temperature has gotten steamy, so we choose to eat indoors, our waitress greets us with menus and glasses of ice water. We glance at the selections; soups made from scratch, salads, burgers, fish and steak, it all sounds good. The room is on the dark side, in that dive bar sort of way, dark wood floors and wainscoting, walls are deep red, wood booths line the perimeter of the room, the bar is the centerpiece. The cabinet behind the bar is a handsome piece, in the center an art deco style mirror reflects the light, glass block flanks each side. Just like that, our food arrives; the grilled jerk chicken salad is plentiful, the chicken sits atop a bed of spinach, strawberries and feta cheese are sprinkled about, raspberry vinaigrette is served on the side. The chicken is cooked perfectly, the combination of flavors a winner. The Ground Round burger is also good, we shared both things, making for a nice light lunch.

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The Atwater Brewery ijust down the street on Jos Campau, housed in a 1919 factory warehouse the brewery itself was founded in 1997. In case you are not aware of it, Atwater has its own taproom right inside the brewery, who doesn’t like a cold beer on a hot day? We pull up a seat at the bar, after a brief description of what’s on tap, we make our decision, a Summer Time Ale for Kris and a half Vanilla Java Porter, half Decadent Dark Chocolate Ale for me. As we sip our beer we look around the brewery space, the main brewing equipment is Kasper Schultz brought in from Germany, malt and hops for lagers are from Germany, while American hops are used in specialty ales. Kegs are shrink-wrapped to pallets and stacked high, bottles of beer are packed by hand into cardboard boxes, long communal tables made of planks are set off to the side. I love the names of the beer: Grand Circus IPA, Purple Gang Pilsner, Detroit Pale Ale, and the ever popular Dirty Blonde. Before we know it our glasses are empty, for a mere dollar you can take the glass home. If you are looking for an out-of-the way spot to chill and you like beer, visit the Atwater Tap Room.

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DETROIT: Things are Popping-Up all over….

10 Jul

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There’s a new way of doing business in Detroit. First take an old building that has been vacant for years, maybe even decades, add a group of budding entrepreneurs, a team of volunteer architects, mix well and place in a neighborhood hungry for economic revitalization, the result; a series of Pop-Up (temporary) retail spaces in the Jefferson East Business District  (JEBA)  affectionately nicknamed  Jeff Chalmers.  We have driven down this strip of Jefferson near the Grosse Pointe border for years, it is attractive and has remained intact. Today as we park our car we see that it is lively; there are sandwich boards on the sidewalk, an outdoor cafe, people milling about. First we head into Coffee and (______), we are instantly charmed by the space; furniture is made from wooden pallets, a bicycle rim ads whimsy and light, paintings by local artists decorate the walls, bright-colored cushions and a turquoise wall make it feel light and summer-y. Pastry chef Angela is behind the counter pulling espresso shots and describing today’s baked goods (the “and”) to a customer. As the word brownie reaches my eardrum I know exactly what I’m going to order. Angela did a stint back in the fall in West Village, her “Coffee and” shop was well received in the neighborhood, we are glad to see her at it again. Taking a seat at the counter we anxiously take a bite of the brownie; the edge is chewy, the center soft and gooey, a piece of chocolate heaven. As we sip our iced coffee a steady stream of patrons come and go, many seem to know each other, all are excited at the prospect of a neighborhood coffee shop. We are greeted by a man named Ritchie, he’s the economic development director at JEBA, he tells us a bit about the Pop-ups and the area, his enthusiasm is contagious.

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Myra’s Sweet Tooth occupies the space next door, a table displays delicious looking cookies and cupcakes, there’s a line at the ice cream counter. We cut through the back to the River’s Edge Gallery, it is very well done and looks as if it has always been here. Each of the 5 storefronts were given a team of volunteer designers from the Detroit chapter of the American Institute of Architects, they were given two months and a limited budget (I heard $2,000 each) to create a custom space for each pop-up client; what they accomplished is an amazing, eye-appealing cohesive district. We cross Jefferson, D:hive has opened a storefront; the large front window is home to wood furniture painted red, white and blue, a street map of Detroit covers one wall.  Inside, Sister Pie and Sweet Potato Sensations are selling  their signature baked goods. A large area is dedicated to Detroit itself; neon colored sheets of paper are filled with lists of restaurants, bars and activities, trying to connect people to the surrounding environment. Goodwells Organic Market has opened a temporary space too; the decor is a definite home run! Wooden barrels are filled with fresh fruit, discarded window frames are mounted on the wall and used as shelves, a bright yellow door hangs horizontally over a table; clear canning jars are implemented as light fixtures, the shop looks fresh and bright.  The young man behind the counter whips us up an awesome fruit smoothie. The district seems to be an instant success. (Pop-ups will be on Jefferson through July 6th, Coffee and (___) until July 27)

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Have you heard there’s a beach in downtown Detroit? Seriously! From now until the end of September Campus Martius Park  is home to tons of white sand, beach chairs and a Beach Bar and Grill serving Frankenmuth beer and cocktails. Guess where we’re having lunch? We place our order at the bar, the food portion is run by the folks at Fountain Bistro, we choose a table on the wooden deck that gives us a nice beach view. The area is fabulous; surrounded by skyscrapers, the fountain on one end, Soldiers and Sailors monument on the other, there’s nothing else like it. Tables in lime green, orange and turquoise are set up on the deck, area workers relax in beach chairs, shoes off, feet pushed into the soft sand. Small children play with pails and shovels, delighted at the feel of the grains in their fingers. Before we know it our lunch arrives; the Traverse City salad is outstanding with the homemade strawberry vinaigrette, the chicken pesto sandwich is large and flavorful. When we have polished off the food and fresh squeezed lemonade we cross over to Cadillac Square.

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From now until August 23 Cadillac Square is hosting a summer time market. Monday through Friday from 10 am until 2 pm food vendors are set up in bright green mock storefronts. In addition to the food, visitors are treated to live music each day with Lunchtime Acoustics. It just so happens that today is the 4th Friday of the month, which means “The Market” is in full swing. This area is reserved for artists, designers, vintage dealers, apparel, home goods and craft foods by independent retailers. We wander from booth to booth; wallpaper, t-shirts, preserves and jewelry, all top quality products. In the background a duo play guitars and sing in Latin American style, it is a lovely afternoon. You have two more chances to visit the market: July 26 & 27 and August 23 & 24, open 11a-9p Friday, 11a-7p Saturday…….don’t miss it!

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Did I mention that today is National Skateboard Day? We had noticed groups of skateboarders making their way through the city all day long, then someone mentioned they were gathering near the old Brewster projects. Let’s see what they can do! We park along the side of the road near the 375 service drive, the long forgotten Brewster buildings stand windowless and empty, mother nature has reclaimed the surrounding land, abandoned tennis courts have been transformed into a make-shift skills course for skateboards. Dozens of young men take turns jumping piles of bricks, some slide across yellow railings, others maneuver their boards along concrete benches, it is easy to single out the best skaters.

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We watch for a bit then head over to Hamtramck’s urban skate park. Just off the Davison is Detroit’s first (and only) permanent skate park; this is the kind with the cool bowl shape where skaters ride up along the top of the wall. A small group of talented skaters ride down graffiti covered concrete ramps and walls, each seems to have a signature trick. They have come from downriver, Saginaw and Ann Arbor to participate in the days activities. It has been a full day, we have covered many areas of the city, and yet there is so much more……… 

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Bay City: Part II

23 Jun

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On our way to the bed and breakfast, we take a detour along the Saginaw River in search of the permanent mooring site of the USS Edson. I read that the destroyer had arrived in Bay City and was to open as the Saginaw Valley Naval Ship Museum in May. We continue to follow the river, just as we are about to give up, the enormous ship comes into view; at an overall length of 418 ft, it is quite a sight. A trailer sits off to the side, it’s early evening, we hope there’s still time to get a tour. Inside we are greeted warmly by volunteers, told we can start our tour immediately, we pay the admission and we are off. As we approach the destroyer I am taken aback by its size, our guide  is knowledgeable and friendly, he rattles off facts and figures effortlessly, here are a few; the USS Edson  is a Forrest Sherman-Class destroyer, 45 ft beam, 22 ft draught, 418 ft overall length. Commissioned in 1958, earned a reputation as a Top Gun ship, nicknamed “The Destroyer” and “The Grey Ghost of the Vietnamese Coast” as a member of the US Pacific Fleet, decommissioned in 1988.

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We go inside the ship, everything is painted the same shade of grey, hallways are narrow, the low ceiling is thick with wiring. We peek inside a series of different rooms, in some, walls are covered in nautical charts, in others bunks hang from chains and are stacked three high, officers had it better, one bed and their own bathroom. Everywhere I look I see switches, dials, gauges and knobs. As we walk our guide tells us stories about the Edson and the men who temporarily called the ship home. They had everything they needed; a barbershop, doctor, dentist, they could buy a candy bar and mail letters. We enter the galley area, there are maybe a dozen booths where the men would take their meals, with a crew of 17 officers and 218 men, they had to eat in shifts. We go down to the engine room where the 70,000 horsepower Worthington steam turbines are located, these monsters are capable of powering this massive ship to nearly 50 miles per hour, Wow, can’t imagine how loud it must have been down there, not to mention the heat. The pilot house is huge, we peer out the windshield at the Saginaw River, passing boats blow their horns and passengers wave as they pass. The Saginaw valley was home to many shipyards, the former Defoe Shipbuilding Company built many ships for the US Navy, making Bay City a perfect home for the USS Edson.

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We make our way back downtown to Populace Cafe on Washington Ave, time for a coffee break. Opened in 2012 the original owner ran the cafe, the wholesale business and most importantly roasted all the coffee. Though he still owns and runs Populace Coffee Company he sold the cafe to his barista, Lindsay, and the place is thriving. The decor is an eclectic mix of vintage and modern, chalkboard menus hang on the wall in pretty vintage frames. They have the usual espresso and coffee drinks you’d expect to find, but what really sets the shop apart are Lindsay’s homemade syrups; vanilla, dark chocolate and 3, yes I said 3, kinds of caramel! Kris had an iced coffee with the vanilla and loved it, unable to decide between the dark chocolate and the salty caramel, she made me a latte with both, yum! They also have a nice selection of teas and some tasty looking baked goods. Heck, we’d come to Bay City just for the coffee!

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At last we arrive at the Historic Webster House where we will be spending the night; built by Judge Thomas Webster in 1886 the 4,750 sq. ft. home is a lovely example of Queen Anne architecture. We are immediately greeted by innkeepers Frank and Gail, we walk through to the breakfast room where Frank points out a batch of freshly baked peanut butter chocolate chip cookies. The home is gorgeous; stained glass windows, polished hardwood floors, ornately carved wood trim and moldings, it is completely furnished in Victorian period pieces. Gail leads us to the stairway, she pauses at a table holding a platter of cheese and crackers, I catch the fragrance of red wine before I see the decanter and matching glasses, I love this place already! We ascend the steps up to the second floor where a guest refrigerator is stocked with soft drinks and more wine, Gail takes us into our room, it is splendid. The room is distinctly shaped, one wall is a series of large windows; a small table and two chairs are placed against a window. The bed is higher than a standard bed, the blanket is fluffed, it looks extremely comfortable. We have a fireplace and a small flat screen TV, the bathroom is roomy, I wish we were staying all weekend…… We help ourselves to a glass of wine, unpack a few things and get ourselves situated. If you’re looking for some luxe accommodations in Bay City, give this place a try!

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The Webster House is located in the Center Avenue Historic District, in 2011 the district was expanded to include 875 structures in a variety of styles from Gothic Revival and Italianate to Richardson Romanesque and Arts and Crafts. As we walk we pass grand manor homes, keep in mind this neighborhood was where industrialists, lumbermen and ship builders dwelled.  It is a perfect evening; water splashes in concrete fountains, Irises are blooming, lilacs perfume the air. The grass is deep green and lush, long walks lead to front porches bearing cement lions or gargoyles. Huge urns filled with annuals add a splash of color, ivy climbs the fireplace of a stately Tudor. There are also a number of “kit homes”, the Alladin and Lewis & Liberty Companies pioneered the manufacture of kit homes right here in Bay City. We arrive at a quaint little park; in a pond, water streams up from a whale and a dolphin, they look as though they have been entertaining children for decades. We take Center Street back to the bed and breakfast, have to freshen up for dinner.

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Everybody we talk to in Bay City tells us to have dinner at Old City Hall; as you may have guessed the building, opened in the late 1890’s was the city’s first city hall. Back in the logging days this area was known as “Hell’s Half Mile” for all of the rough activities that took place in the local saloons and brothels that stretched this section of road, eventually it forced the relocation on city hall. Today the restaurant looks like something you’d find in Birmingham or Ferndale, exposed brick walls, funky light fixtures made from empty wine and liquor bottles and a diverse menu. We begin our meal with the Thai lettuce wraps, a tasty blend of chicken, cashews and veggies smothered in a mild Thai sauce spooned into crisp romaine lettuce leaves, delicious. Our entrée of shrimp pad Thai arrived in a large bowl and smelled wonderful. A combination of shrimp, tofu, bean sprouts, egg and crushed peanuts the sauce was sweet and spicy, scrumptious.

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After dinner we walk down to the water front, the temperature has dropped quickly, we can see our breath when we speak, ah, Michigan in May! Lights across the river reflect on the still waters, pretty, a large white sculpture lights up Wenonah Park, the Delta College Planetarium looks super cool at night. The cold night air sends us back to the bar at Old City Hall; with 150 wines from around the globe and 23 beers on tap there is much to choose from. We sip our drinks and relax, it has been a fun and busy day.

Hamtramck: Saint Florian Strawberry Festival

4 Jun

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There are certain things you can count on in life: Spring follows Winter, night follows day, cake on your birthday, fireworks on the 4th of July and the St Florian Strawberry Festival every May. This year we met up with a couple of our friends who had not yet been to the church or the festival. The four of us packed ourselves into our 2-door Wrangler, we arrive at St Florian, surrounding streets have been declared Strawberry Festival Blvd for the weekend. The imposing brick and stone building can’t help but attract your attention with its handsome wood doors, stained glass windows, finely carved stone a spire that rises 200 feet into the sky. People and activity are everywhere; from a large tent we hear music as Polish dance ensembles perform traditional dances, the air carries the distinct aroma of Polish food. There is a buffet of items such as perogi and meatball dinners, Polish beer and chrusciki (angel wings). Next we head to social hall where the festivities continue.

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The party continues downstairs, the space reminds me of the days when big family gatherings were held in basements. Fold-out paper strawberries hang from the drop ceiling, round tables are covered in pastel colored cloths, a large bar hugs one side of the wall, and then there’s the food! Volunteers have spent countless hours preparing city chicken and stuffed cabbage, Polish Village supplies the sauerkraut, Kielbasa comes from Bozek, New Palace Bakery makes the cheesecake, cookies and everybody’s favorite, paczki; it is a true neighborhood affair. At a nearby table parishoners are hard at work pouring homemade batter into a waffle iron, I gaze dreamily as the baked waffle is topped with fresh strawberries in their own syrup, a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a dollop of fresh whipped cream, I immediately take my place in line. Each of us gets something different; we take a seat at one of the tables and dig in. The warmth of the waffle melts the ice cream ever so slightly, Kris and I take large bites being sure to get a bit of everything on the fork; strawberries are sweet, the waffle tender, simple and delicious! The Dyna Dukes are onstage, they begin to play a polka, suddenly the dance floor is crowded with couples wearing smiles of delight. Upstairs, tours of the church are being offered, we make our way there and wait for it to begin.

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I love to see the look on people’s faces when they enter the church for the first time; a mixture of wonder and amazement. Designed by Ralph Adams Cram in the Gothic style, the church opened in 1928. It is visually stunning; the nave is made up of six bays topped with a rib vault ceiling painted a deep blue, ribs are accentuated with gold paint. The main aisle is flanked by 2 smaller aisles, stained glass windows made by Kase Company in New York line the walls. The altar is magnificent; a series of five windows depict polish saints, the altar piece a work of art from Florence Italy. The organ loft is illuminated by a large, jewel-like, rose stained glass window, the organ itself, a 1928 Austin Electric Opus # 1528, completely renovated in 2008. Walls look like stone, stenciled designs decorate every surface, light fixtures dangle from long chains, large round ones are made of wood, smaller elongated fixtures are glass, all are exceptional. We walk around in awe, Kris, busy as usual, taking photos until the tour begins.

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We take our seats in the first few rows of pews, a local man, knowledgeable in the history of both St Florian and Hamtramck will be our guide. He tells us about the early days, about 1901, when Hamtramck was still a village filled with farms. Soon afterward automobile manufacturers began setting up shop; Dodge, Packard and Ford. Eastern European immigrants began to settle in the area, there were many jobs to fill. In 1910 the population in Hamtramck was 3559, in 1920 it was 48,615 and in 1930 it rose to 56,000 people; imagine it, all those people living in a city of only 2 square miles! St Florian parish began in 1908, before long they had outgrown their church, with a plan for a new building, working class parishoners sacrificed what they could to build the new church at a cost of $500,000.00 The current building opened in 1928, American Architecture Magazine named it the best new church in America in 1929. They say at one time there were 23 factories and 43 grocery stores in Hamtramck, then as now there was no shortage of bars. At one time Dodge Main employed 45,000 people, sadly the factory closed in 1979. The good news is GM built a new factory on the land where they proudly build the Chevrolet Impala and Volt. Today’s Hamtramck is a mix of people from Eastern Europe to the Middle East, there are Mosks, and churches of Catholic, Baptist and Evangelical faiths. St Florian still offers mass in both Polish and English and looks as good as ever.

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Coming from St Florian and being in Poletown we have lunch exactly where you’d expect….a Bosnian restaurant! Located on Caniff across the street from the post office Restaurant Palma is located inside what looks to be a family home. The inside is quaint; a stained wood wainscoting lines the walls, tiny white lights shine from behind it. Tables are round and covered with linen table cloths, a single rose decorates each table, walls are pale green and yellow and hanging plants add an airiness to the space. Our young waitress arrives with menus in hand, we order diet cokes and look them over, yikes….it’s written in Bosnian! When she brings our drinks we ask for assistance in ordering, nice as can be she tells us about different dishes, we place our order and wait for the food to arrive. The dishes come out together, we have a small cabbage salad: finely shredded cabbage with a mild vinegar type dressing. The Cevapi is a Bosnian main-stay; tiny skinless sausages of ground meat served on a huge roll called Lepinja. The bread or Lepinja is fantastic, soft, fluffy and delicate there is nothing I can compare it to, slightly sweet, it has soaked up some of the juice from the Cevapi, delicious! The Cevapi itself is very tasty, it reminds me a bit of a Croation dish I have had. Served with sour cream for dipping, sliced raw onion and seasoned french fries, it is a hearty meal. We picked the stir fry for a bit of variety, tender chicken chunks and a large variety of veggies it is well seasoned and flavorful, yum! It has been wonderful day filled with beautiful architecture, interesting stories from the past and delectable food, giving us an even greater appreciation for all that surrounds us.

Detroit Film Theatre

16 May

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There is something very appealing to me to sit and watch a good movie on a rainy afternoon, on a recent Sunday we headed over to the Detroit Film Theatre to do just that. The 1,200 seat auditorium was built as part of the Detroit Institute of Arts in 1927, a collaborated effort of Paul Philippe Crete and C Howard Crane, the theater is gorgeous! For the last 30 years the theater has been host to acclaimed documentaries  subtitled foreign language films, restored classics, independent and silent films and director’s retrospectives. Today we are traveling to France, the year is 1971, the film, Max et les Ferrailleurs, parlez-vous francais?

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We find a parking space near the John R entrance, we purchase tickets in the outer lobby, the floor and walls are marble, the ceiling highlighted by a series of simple gold lines. The inner lobby is more decorative; the ceiling is embellished in gold, silver and copper, wonderfully ornate wrought iron floor lamps emit a soft light, the drinking fountain is a work of art itself. We follow the terazzo floor to a wonderful curving staircase leading to the mezzanine level; the back of each step beautifully decorated with lustrous Pewabic Tiles. At the top is the Crystal Gallery, originally a reception space, now a cafe, the room is breathtaking! The vaulted ceiling is two stories high, a row of stunning chandeliers dangle from above, floor to ceiling crystal reflecting walls cap off both sides. The windows are mammoth in size, allowing natural light to stream in, the oval space above them finely detailed. The cafe is a the perfect place to have a glass of wine, a cup of coffee, or a light snack before or after a film.

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Decorated in deep blue, gold and silver, the auditorium itself is lavish, opulent, magnificent. On each side of the stage mock box seat areas are capped with splendid gold grates, a single face rests at the peak. A ring of gold rectangular grates depict cherubs delighting in a bounty of fruits and vegetables surround the theatre. The ceiling and walls had to be designed around the Cassavant Feres classical pipe organ, fine details saturate the auditorium; a spectacular curved molding that joins wall and ceiling, Art Deco style grills along the back wall, C Howard Crane’s influence is obvious. The lights dim, we take our seats, the movie begins. It takes just a few minutes to acclimate myself to read the subtitles and watch the film simultaneously. Billed as a crime drama the story takes us through the planning of a bank heist, a detective seeking revenge and the complicated life of a beautiful woman in love with two men. C’est la vie!

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When the movie ends it is time for dinner, we are grabbing a bite to eat at Honest ? Johns over on Selden. A local favorite for many years the menu offers something for every taste; chicken and waffles, burgers and fries, salads, sandwiches and even vegetarian selections. We choose a booth by a window and pour over the menu, we place our order with the very friendly waitress and wait for our food to arrive. Restaurant patrons range from suburban couples and bar stool regulars to college students and hipsters, everybody feels at home here. We hear the clanking of balls from a game of pool taking place on the other side of the divider, neon signs sport phrases like “Sobriety Sucks” and “Men Lie”. Our food arrives and it looks delicious, the hardest part is waiting for Kris to take the pictures before we can dig in. The spinach salad is great; tender baby spinach, crisp turkey bacon, sweet vidalia onions and grape tomatoes served with a curry mustard dressing. The spinach artichoke melt tasted even better than it looked; soft grilled pita bread filled with spinach, artichoke, provolone and parmesan cheese, served with a side of chipotle-basil mayo, I’d come back for this sandwich anytime. 

DETROIT: Rock City ?

30 Mar

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I’m not sure what it is about Detroiter’s, maybe it’s the hard working blue-collar mindset; all I know for sure is that when it comes to the weekends, we know how to have fun! What do you like? Broadway shows, professional sports, casino gambling, guided tours on foot, bike or bus, the symphony, ping-pong, art, concerts, movies, fine dining, taco trucks, grand architecture, festivals? You’re in luck, Detroit has all of that and more! Tonight we are set for a night on the town; dinner, concert and cocktails, sounds good doesn’t it? We will spend our entire evening in the Bricktown district, beginning with dinner at Sweetwater Tavern. Housed in a charming 1800’s orange-brick building, Sweetwater has been a local favorite for over 30 years. It’s almost 8 pm on a Friday night,the warmth feels good when we step inside; exposed brick walls, large arched windows and stained glass light fixtures give the room a cozy glow. Every seat at the bar is taken, lucky for us a booth remains empty, platters of chicken wings and ribs are being delivered to hungry patrons. We scan the menu, everything is homemade and it all sounds good. Deciding on a burger and Cajun Steak Bites we take turns between watching the Pistons on TV and checking out Detroit memorabilia that hangs on the walls. The food arrives; the burger is cooked just right, grilled onions and crispy bacon make a tasty combination, fries are served in a small deep-fry basket making a nice presentation. The steak bites are well-flavored, served with grilled pita bread and slaw, the mild pepper rings go great with the meat. We ate every last thing on the plate! A line was forming near the door, and our show was about to start; time to go.

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We cross the street and arrive at St. Andrews Hall, we are seeing Jessica Hernandez and the Deltas. The brick and stone building was originally built by the St. Andrews Society of Detroit, the Society was made up of Scotchmen and Scottish descendants to provide relief for Scots in need. The handsome space was used for meetings, celebrations and entertaining.  St. Andrews Hall has been a music venue since 1980, hosting trend-setting bands such as New Order, REM, Red Hot Chili Peppers, Nirvana, Nine Inch Nails and Green Day.  In true concert fashion there are two warm-up bands before the headliner. There’s a short wait to get inside, the sound of music drifts out onto the street. We make our way in to the main floor ballroom, a crowd is beginning to form, people stand in small groups, drinks in hand, smiles on their faces. James Linck is on first, his music is dreamy and mellow, red and blue lighting drifts across the crowds. The Mexican Knives are up next, they are louder, more rockin’ and seem to pump up the crowd. We wander around, checking out the building, there is a second floor balcony that allows you a birds-eye view of the goings-on below, there is additional meeting space on this floor too. The Knives play their last number, the stage goes dark, instruments are interchanged preparing for the big show of the night. Female bartenders hustle behind the black Art Deco style bar, the wall behind is antique wood with pastel colored back lighting, the joint is jumpin’

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We find ourselves a spot with a good view away from the crowd, the anticipation grows as individual spotlights shine down onto the empty stage, stilted members of the Detroit Circus announce Jessica and the Deltas, the crowd cheers for the hometown star and the music begins. Jessica is a 25-year-old beauty who does it all; singing, songwriting, she even manages the band. The product of a Mexican mother and Cuban father, she  grew up above the family business, Mexicantown Bakery, on Vernor in Southwest Detroit (YUM!). Her music is a combination of influences; Latin, New Orleans, gypsy, producing a one-of-a-kind sound. Tonight she is performing with six other band members, sure there’s a guitar player or two, a drummer and a keyboard, throw in a Tuba and saxophone and you have the Deltas. Her music is powerful and happy, it consumes her; you hear it in her voice, see it in her dance, feel it in your soul, even sad songs feel upbeat and make you want to dance. The audience was filled with family and friends, a true homecoming for an up and coming artist returning from touring and recording an album. She transitions from song to song, applause, cheers and whistles filling the space between, everybody is having a great time. The hour she played flew by, I wasn’t still for a moment, my mood was light, I had been thoroughly entertained. 

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With a spring in our step we walked around the corner to Jacoby’s on Brush Street to wind down with a night-cap. This is another one of those places that has been around forever, well, actually since 1904. The interior is endearing; antique tin ceiling, lots of wood, through the generations it has retained a bit of old world charm. We take a seat at the bar, order cocktails and drink in the surroundings; regulars are easy to spot with their easy-going conversation with staff members. As we sip our beverages we feel relaxed, another week has ended, but the weekend fun has just begun.

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DETROIT: A Feast For The Eyes And The Appetite

18 Mar

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In the past we’ve taken you into some of Detroit’s great places to shop for antiques, today we’ll take you to the finest; Du Mouchelles auction house on Jefferson. Here  you’ll find a selection of top quality antiques, more like a museum than a store. The Du Mouchelle family has been in business since 1927, they are experts in estate appraisals, they buy and sell fine diamonds, gems, jewelry, artwork and objets d’ art; they are probably best known as auction house.  Pausing at the front windows, I took a look inside while Kris snapped a few photos of the building. The first thing that caught me eye were beautiful pieces from an antique carousel, a couple of horses and a lion that at one time thrilled children as they rose and fell to the rhythm of loudly playing music. Once inside I was dazzled by the light reflecting off the multiple crystal chandeliers that hang from the ceiling. Kris pointed out a stairway to the second floor, so up we went.

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The second floor is an immense space filled with gorgeous things; tall glass cases line the walls and make up rows on the floor, antique paintings, movie posters and cartoons are framed and hang on walls and dividers. As we roam the space I linger at displays of fine china decorated in frilly patterns, crystal pieces and highly detailed figurines. I love antique furniture; there was an amazing dining room table and chairs that I had to get a closer look at. The table was dark wood, thick legs are lavishly carved, two candelabra’s rest on top. Glass counters are filled with a bevy of vintage jewelry. Each item bears a tag with a description, when the item goes up for auction and how much it is expected to sell for; many of the estimated prices surprised me, some higher, some lower than I would have thought. We descended the stairs back to ground level; a pair of lights look as if they once called a theater home, many large pieces are displayed here. All items that will be sold at the next auction are on display for potential bidders to see and touch before the bidding begins. Next time we come it will be to watch a live auction; I can’t wait.

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It is such a beautiful day and Detroit has a spectacular riverfront, the thought of outdoor dining comes to mind; a gust of wind blows, reminding us that is still a couple of months away, we have the perfect compromise: lunch at Volt. The Renaissance Center is often described as a “city within a city”, I’d have to say that’s an accurate description; its seven towers and 5 million square feet can be a bit overwhelming. Today we are just concentrating on the central tower; home to the Detroit Marriott, this is the tallest all-hotel skyscraper in the western hemisphere, not to mention the tallest building in Michigan. Volt is the Marriot’s  lobby bar and restaurant, with floor to ceiling windows it offers a wonderful view along with contemporary dining. We placed our order and took in the bright and airy room while we waited for our food; translucent amber-colored glass bubbles dangle above the semi-circular bar, the carpet pattern is  done in rich shades of red, purple, sapphire and gold, as are the accent colors of the room. Our lunch arrives; a Roast Turkey BLT served with a mini Caesar salad and Artichoke Dip with house made tortilla chips, everything was tasty! In the summer you can dine on the patio with an unobstructed view, now that’s something to keep in mind when the warm weather finally arrives. Before we left we took a walk around the tower, enjoying more water views and thinking there’s still more to explore…..next time.

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It seems as though Detroit is always in the news for one awful thing after another; newspapers and newsrooms seem to take pleasure in the decline and despair of a city with a lion’s share of problems. Allow us to tell you about the good. Avalon International Breads has been providing Detroit with wonderful products and positive stories for years, and they’re doing it again! Due to the bakery’s growing presence in restaurants, cafes, grocery stores and retail outlets they recently purchased a 50,000 sq ft building on Bellevue in Detroit that will serve as the center for production. This new branch of the business, City Ovens, recently held an open house to show off their new space and is it ever impressive! A former manufacturing facility, it has been turned into a pristine work space that is expected to double its current workforce.

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We enter the building in the area that will eventually be a small retail outlet for baked goods, we are welcomed by employees and volunteers, they point the way to food, drinks, and tours. Each area is white from top to bottom, equipment shines in stainless steel, we pause at a table with an amazing spread of fresh-baked bread, fruit, veggies and dips. Visitors are huddled in small groups eating from paper plates, I see chocolate cake in the distance and waste no time snatching up a piece for us. We pass into the next room where the Marion Hayden Trio plays on a small platform stage, a huge oven is front and center in the room, it is so large I could stand up inside of it. Several feet away a cooler waits to be filled with all the tasty items that will go into Avalon’s goodies. In another space enormous stand mixers rest on the floor; whisks and dough hooks are as big as my head, I have to wonder how many people it takes to lift the bowl.There is such a positive vibe going on, good bread, cookies and chocolate cake seem to have that effect on people….But it’s more than that, Avalon was the dream of two women who wanted to feed Detroiters’ good quality products that are incredibly delicious. The bakery has become a neighborhood staple, a place where people stop in for a loaf of Scallion Dill, a Sea Salt Chocolate Chip Cookie and a good cup of coffee; they provide sustenance for the body and the soul, and employment to boot; now that’s a success story! Bad news is easy to find, you may have to dig a little deeper for the positive; but believe me, it’s out there!

 

 

LANSING: Something Old, Something New…

12 Mar

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We’ve been wanting to get out to Lansing to visit the new Eli and Edythe Broad Art Museum, today was finally the day! Nestled on the campus of Michigan State University this new modern, funky building is quite a departure from the stately brick and stone buildings that have graced the grounds for over a century. Kind of like a UFO that lost its way …The asymmetrical, pleated stainless steel and glass structure immediately instigates conversation, I like that about it. We spent some time walking around the outside of the building; looking at it from different angles, no two sides look the same. Curious as to what the interior looks like we head inside. Upon entry we are greeted by an exhibit entitled “The Gift: Lansing MI”. Basically it’s a wall of portraits taken in an instant photo lab in downtown East Lansing, of local residents; from time to time new photos are placed in the frames and old ones removed, creating an ever-changing exhibit and putting a real face on the people who call Lansing home. At the end of the exhibit we are in the central part of the gallery, it’s really cool!

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Everywhere I look things are on an angle; walls, windows, galleries, kind of like a fun-house…. in an artsy way. The facility is 46,000 sq. ft. and most of that is dedicated exhibit space. We are directed up a stairway, large windows and skylights allow the sunlight to pour in. We begin on the top floor,we are drawn to a series of black screens showing video art, one by one we stop and stare at the images dancing upon the screen; some thought-provoking, some scary and others, bright and colorful, are simply beautiful. No two spaces are the same, the odd-shaped areas are intriguing and make you want to investigate whats behind every turn. My favorite exhibit on this floor is a sequence of floating human figures sculpted in papier-mache’; it reminds me of children playing, I wish I could float alongside them. The main floor is home to smaller galleries and the cafe, even the drinking glasses are angled to reflect the building’s design. Broad MSU is a wonderful addition to the contemporary art community!

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Our next stop is just a short drive away; the Michigan Historical Museum. The museum consists of five levels of exhibits that take us through Michigan’s colorful past up to the late 20th century. We know we’re going to be here for a while, there’s soooo much to see, we  hang up our coats and get started. Boarding the elevator that takes visitors to the beginning of the exhibits; we find ourselves in the very early days when Indians of the Chippewa, Ottawa, Potawatomi and Huron tribes roamed the land. We travel through time as we roam from one area to another; it is now 1820, the Toledo War is  waging as both Michigan and Ohio fight over the strip of land that is Toledo, seriously….at last the territory of Michigan signs a compromise giving Toledo to Ohio and the western 2/3 of the present Upper Peninsula to Michigan. In 1837 Michigan becomes a state; between 1830 and 1840 we grew faster than any other state or territory. Next we are introduced to Copper and Iron mining in the UP, a display recreates what it was like to be down in a copper mine, definitely not a job I’d like to have. Next,  I can’t help but gawk at the antique cast iron stoves, they are each a work of art; did you know Detroit led the country in stove manufacturing too?

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The next big boom was the Lumber Industry, a replica of the Hackley House shows us some of the beautiful ways  that lumber was put to use.  There’s a wonderful exhibit depicting the 1920’s here in our state, it is very much like the Streets of Old Detroit at the Historical Museum downtown. We get a peek into the past through department stores like Hudson’s and Kresge’s, there’s an old movie palace where you can sit down and watch a short film; the ticket booth is circa 1927 and comes from the Eagle Theatre in Pontiac. Cars were becoming popular, check out the auto dealership featuring a 1925 touring car made by the Flint Motor Company on display. Following the time line it’s the Great Depression, then WWII and Michigan’s part in the Arsenal of Democracy. Michigan threw all of its resources into the war effort; automakers converted factories to make war products such as tanks, trucks, Jeeps, ambulances, bombers, guns ammunition etc. Detroit ranked #1 in the nation in war production, amazing!

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We move on to brighter times, the 1950’s, this is our favorite era in the museum. From the furniture to dishes and cars this was a very stylish time period; pink appliances, space-age design, big fins on cars, very chic, hip. The 1957 Detroit Auto Show Gallery is hands-down Kris’s favorite spot in the museum. A bright red Corvette sits on the floor while a Plymouth Fury is suspended in the air, everything looks very futuristic. A series of 3 dashboards are mounted on the wall in red, white and blue; lots of chrome and gadgets, what an awesome time period. A sampling of paint colors takes us back to the days when you could order a car in pink and interiors were available in more than black, grey and tan. At one time engineers from Chrysler helped to produce the first rockets, a Redstone Rocket facade sits behind a glass case, reminding us that they too were Made in Michigan. We end our journey in the Upper Peninsula, a “Vacationland” map showcases the area attractions such as Soo Locks, Pictured Rocks and Brockway Mountain Drive. There’s a great exhibit on the Mackinac Bridge complete with commemorative dishes and glasses. We have thoroughly enjoyed our visit.

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Lunch is a no-brainer, Kris’s favorite Mexican food can be found right here at El Azteco on Saginaw. If you went to school at MSU, chances are you have eaten at one of their two locations. In business at this location since 1976, everything is made from scratch; corn and flour tortillas are prepared fresh daily. The food is unlike any other Mexican we have ever had, spices and sauces are uniquely El Azteco! We take a booth near the bar, a basket of chips and a dish of salsa greet us just after we are seated. We cannot help ourselves, our hands are immediately drawn to the smallish corn chips, many of them twisted and folded, and dip them into the thick spicy salsa; one bite and you’re hooked. We ordered the mild beef combination: 2 beef enchiladas, beef taco, tamale, beans and rice. Again, it is delicious, the seasonings in the meat, the sauces, are like no place else. We love the Topopo Salad; a huge pile of a salad consisting of iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, shredded chicken, cheese, jalapenos, peas and scallions sitting on a bed of tortilla chips spread with frijoles, melted cheese and guacamole, you have to try it to really appreciate how good it is. We kept eating but the salad never seemed to get any smaller…..how will we have room for the Sopapilla?! We packed up the leftovers to take home with us, they will make for a great snack later.

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One last stop before heading home; a coffee for the road. Most of you are probably familiar with Biggby coffee(FKA as Beaners) by now. It seems they’re popping up all around Metro Detroit. Did you know this Michigan based chain originated in East Lansing?  We have been coming to their original location since they first opened their doors in 1995, in a former Arby’s on Grand River. We popped in, ordered a couple of beverages to go, then eastbound on Grand River enjoying the scenic ride home. A great way to spend a Sunday…

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DETROIT: Science Fun!

2 Mar

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It’s a snowy Sunday afternoon and we are looking for some indoor fun, we’ve been meaning to check out the recently re-opened Science Center; no time like the present. We found parking on the street, which can be hard to come by in this busy museum district, just a short walk across the street and we’re there. Formerly known as the Detroit Science Center, the Michigan Science Center has reopened much to the delight of parents and children in southeastern Michigan. The museum is a playground of hands-on exhibits, live presentations and interactive activities.  I was a little surprised to find a such a long line to get in, obviously word has gotten out that science is back in Detroit. There is one price for general admission, you may also choose to purchase tickets for the IMAX and planetarium; “two for the museum please”. Once inside the exhibit area the volume level rises, the sound of fun fills the air. To the right is a familiar sight from my childhood, the escalator that passes through the neon rainbow tunnel that brings you up from the IMAX, wasn’t that in an old commercial? On the left is a special exhibit about diabetes, as we travel through the display we find ourselves inside a blood vessel, signs describe what we are looking at and the effect diet and exercise have on blood sugar levels; the most popular area has a moving floor that requires a bit of balance to walk across. 

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Next we are in an area of large bright yellow objects that move, shake and spin; simulating how concrete and asphalt are mixed, so this is what it’s like to be aggregate. First we pass over a ramp that moves back and forth as it takes us forward, next up, the tumbler; this part is tricky, you have to walk through the cylinder as it rotates, hey, we did it without injury….  As we exit we make our way past long tubes that hang and swing from above, one more conveyor belt-type ramp down, we jump to the floor, whew, we made it! The floor ahead is divided into two lanes, like a road, wait…is that the Mackinac Bridge? Yes, sort of….This is the mini-mac, an 80 ft long pedestrian bridge that teaches the engineering process, I just think it’s cool. From the bridge we overlook the lower floor; there’s a demonstration just finishing up on the Chrysler Science Stage. There is so much going on we don’t know what to do next. We spend the next hour wandering around; check out the inside of an Apollo space capsule or one of the large scale rockets; the largest one 36 ft tall spanning from the first floor to the roof. In the Motion area we play a laser harp on beams of invisible light. The “Jam Room” is filled to capacity with youngsters rocking out. There’s a huge area dedicated to the manufacturing process, the United States Steel Fun Factory is 2,800 sq. ft of fun that details how an idea becomes a reality; you even get to pass through a blast furnace, it really is hot in there! Want to take a family photo? Have a seat on the couch between two over-sized “couch potatoes” then learn about nutrition so you won’t become one! Exhibits cover all areas of science; health, engineering, space and physical science, and they make it fun! If you have the time, catch a live show in the planetarium, MI-SCI is home to one of the finest digital planetarium projection systems; fly past 9,000 stars, planets and galaxies in a 3-story high dome. Speaking of Domes, the Chrysler IMAX Dome Theater is Michigan’s only IMAX dome.

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We played until our hunger got the best of us, then it was off to Greektown for a late lunch. I think Plaka Cafe is the only one of the old school restaurants that we’d never been to, until today that is. Open 24 hours, the neon signs in the windows inform us they serve Gyros and Coney’s and they offer Bfast 24 hrs. Inside we seat ourselves in a booth by the front window, our waitress greets us with menus and water. As I read the menu I realize this is not your typical Greek restaurant, but instead, a Greek Diner. The food coming out of the kitchen begins to sway our decision of what to eat; coney dog, no, huge fluffy omelette with a side of golden hash browns…maybe, we hear the strawberry pancakes are delicious,the folks next to us went for the gyro, that looks good. Finally we make up our mind; of course we get the flaming cheese, throw in a bowl of lemon rice soup, a falafel sandwich and a fatoosh salad and you get two people who enjoyed a tasty lunch and couldn’t eat another bite. 

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ANN ARBOR: Really Old Stuff….

20 Feb

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We stepped outside into the cold winter air, high up in the powder blue sky the sun was shining; perfect for a road trip. With so many things to see and do, Ann Arbor is always a good destination. I like Ann Arbor on a Sunday; parking is free and it is the least crowded day of the weekend. The air was frigid, so we planned on indoor activities. The University of Michigan Museum of Art (UMMA) maintains one of the oldest collections of art in the nation in university hands; collecting for 150 years it has amassed more than 18,000 art works. In 1910 the university built the Alumni Memorial Hall, it was to serve as a war memorial, home to the Alumni Association and the UMMA. As the collection grew, so did the need for more space, in 1966 the museum became the sole occupant of the building. In 2009 the museum space was enlarged by 53,000 sq. ft with the addition of the Maxine and Stuart Frankel and Frankel Family Wing; during this time the original building was also restored, new galleries and a new UMMA store were added.

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Smooth stone and simple doric columns, to me the exterior of the building looks serious. Inside the historic apse has been redone and the skylights restored, light floods the oval-shaped space. At the far end, marble statues rest upon pedestals looking as if they were awaiting my arrival, I am excited to be here. We stroll through the main floor galleries then head up the stairway; a large funky glass light fixture livens up the space. We wander from gallery to gallery, the transition from the old to the new seamless. The new wing is three stories, stairways are tucked away neatly, natural light filters in. Pieces not on display are housed in ‘open storage’ galleries, allowing the visitor to see more of the museums collections; I love the Tiffany glass. There are large amounts of Asian and African Art, a large cabinet displays stunning silver serving pieces covered with intricate designs. Ceramic vessels, tiles and platters from the Middle Eastern Collection catch my eye, Kris likes the Modern and Contemporary galleries best. We look at the American Art, prints, drawings and photos until we have seen it all; but wait, there’s still more to see……..across the street.

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If I had to guess, I would say  most Metro-Detroiters have never heard of the Kelsey Museum of Archaeology; today we’re going to change that. I think it is fascinating, a place that most people would find very interesting, even if they don’t think so!  Francis W Kelsey was a professor at the University of Michigan, in 1893 he began acquiring artifacts, thinking that they would help his students understand the ancient world. His first purchase was 108 items from an excavation site in Tunisia, that same year he bought 1,096 objects from dealers in Tunis, Rome, Capri and Sicily. As the collection grew, items began to be housed in a gorgeous Richardson Romanesque stone building named Newberry Hall. Built in 1891 as the home for the Student Christian Association, it is one of the oldest buildings on campus today. One of the unique features of this building is its original Tiffany stained glass window, one of two Tiffany windows in Ann Arbor. By 1953 Kelsey’s collections had taken over the building and it became known as the Kelsey Museum of Archaeology. In 2009 the museum grew by 20,000 sq. ft. with the addition of the William E Upjohn Exhibit Wing.

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Today the museum houses the university’s collection of more than 100,000 ancient and medieval objects including Ancient Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Islamic archaeological artifacts. On the first floor, galleries are white from top to bottom, large glass cabinets line the walls; items here date back to “BC” and Alexander The Great, it’s hard to wrap my brain around that. Statues rest on pillars out in the open, I better watch where I’m going. We see pottery, terracotta figurines and Roman glass. U of M excavated a site southwest of Cairo known as Karanis; between 1926 and 1936 nearly 45,000 objects were uncovered and sent back to Ann Arbor, the largest collection of objects outside of the Cairo Museum. We marvel at a colorfully painted mummy coffin, Greek pottery and Roman sculptures, it’s amazing all of this still exists, even more amazing, it’s right here in Ann Arbor! Jewelry in both delicate and large pieces, ‘magical’ amulets from the ancient Near East are beautiful. We take the stairs to the second level, pieces hanging on the wall relate to ancient sailors. Upstairs is more colorful, walls painted in gold and russet display items and photographs of excavations. A replica of the famous Villa of the Mysteries mural from ancient Pompeii is done in 5/6 scale; I look at the faces of the figures, it seems as though they are looking right at me, their eyes follow me. The museum holds the largest collection of Latin inscriptions in the west, we see ancient coins, Egyptian Tomb sets and Greek papyri, and it’s all real……..It’s a lot to take in. We are definitely planning on coming back.

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The museums are located on State Street across from one another, it is only a short walk to E William St and the Original Cottage Inn, lunch, here we come! Back in 1948 when Cottage Inn opened, it was the first restaurant in Ann Arbor to serve pizza, really. Outside, the orange brick building is decorated with painted ivy climbing the walls, the old-fashioned sign jutting from the entrance let’s us know we’ve arrived. Inside it smells wonderful, a mix of fresh-baked bread, spices, olive oil, and maybe a bit of pepperoni…The menu is filled with Italian and Greek dishes, and most importantly, PIZZA. Kris and I have been coming here for over 20 years, though the space itself has undergone expansions, renovations and redecoration, the food has always remained the same delicious way. We started with the antipasto salad; meats, cheeses,olives, so good. Our grilled chicken pizza arrived piping hot, mozzarella stretching all the way from pan to plate. Grilled chicken, pesto, sun-dried tomatoes, mushrooms and artichoke hearts, the crust is just as good as I remember. Few words passed between Kris and I as we ate, we had some serious eating to do.

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I believe there is some sort of gravitational pull that exists in Ann Arbor, it will always lead you to Zingerman’s! Making sure to save room for dessert, we find ourselves surrounded by sweet goodness at Zingerman’s Next Door; cakes, tortes, cookies, brownies, chocolates and gelato, it is dizzying. The February special was Mississippi Mud Pie; a chewy brownie layer topped with soft, dark chocolate ganache, toasted meringue and chocolate drizzle, need I say more? Paired with house roasted coffee for me and espresso for Kris, it is dessert nirvana. 

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