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DETROIT: Hidden Gems

Nestled away on Woodward near the Palmer Woods neighborhood is one of Detroit’s hidden gems, La Dolce Vita. Serving superb Italian cuisine, the building goes unnoticed by most passersby, but don’t be fooled, the restaurants excellent reputation keeps the place packed most of the time. We are having an early dinner on Friday evening, I made a reservation in advance. We turn in behind the building and are greeted by a valet, Kris hands him a $5 dollar bill, we head inside as the Jeep is whisked away. The warmth of the building is soothing, the outdoor temperature is hovering at 5 degrees. The host takes us to our table, large chandeliers light the patio-looking room, archways separate the dining area from the bar. Everything on the menu sounds delicious, we make our selections and nibble on fresh-baked bread. Windows overlook the garden area, the snow is piled high, in the summer there isn’t a prettier place in the city to have a meal than in their courtyard. Service is impeccable, our glasses are never empty and empty dishes are cleared quickly. Kris is having the Petto Di Pollo Alla Sorrentina; sauteed chicken breast, roasted eggplant, mozzarella and a veal-demi marinara sauce to die for. Truly outstanding, the chicken is so tender, no knife is needed. I ordered the Gnocchi Alla Bava, being a fan of both pasta and potatoes, I cannot resist. Without a doubt this is the best gnocchi I have ever had; tender pillows of heavenly deliciousness smothered in a six cheese cream sauce, I found myself grinning with every bite. We definitely have to come here more often!

We have tickets to see the UDM Theatre Company perform Somebody/Nobody by Jane Martin at the Marygrove Theatre; this is the second hidden gem of the evening. In the early 1970’s the U of D Theatre Company and Marygrove consolidated their Fine and Performing Arts departments, they updated the existing theatre by extending the stage to accommodate larger productions. First, let’s talk about the building. Marygrove is an independent, Catholic, Liberal Arts College. The Liberal Arts Building, designed by Oscar D Bohlen, is a soaring Tudor Gothic structure that was built in 1927 of Bedford stone. The building contains classrooms, offices, studios, a library, bookstore, theatre and Sacred Heart Chapel. It is filled with traditional Gothic features such as pointed arches, ribbed vaults, high ceilings, carved decoration, corbels, capitals, tranceried windows…..ah, the beauty of it all!

We have time to wander before the play begins; Tavernelle Rose marble runs from floor to ceiling in the main lobby, long arched corridors with gray Missouri marble floors lead us past classrooms. Brass lettering hangs on classroom doors identifying each subject, doorknobs and hardware are detailed, ornate and original as are the light fixtures. The chapel doors are open, we quietly amble in. Chandeliers line each side of the chapel, the ceiling of wood beams brings warmth to the neutral colored space. The altar, inset under another Gothic arch is elaborate, highly detailed, amazing. Candles flicker in glass containers giving the room a sense of peace. On the walk to the theatre we pass hand-carved Carrara marble statues tucked into niches in the wall, there are 8 throughout the building. Patterns repeat throughout the interior in stone, wood, plaster bronze and wrought iron; French fleur-de-lis, Oak leaves, acorns, harp, laurel wreath and the Cross, little has changed in the building over the last 87 years. It smells like school to me, books, paper…. posters are hung on walls, the heels of my shoes make clicking sounds as we walk.

Inside the theatre we are shown to our seats, renovated in 2002 it radiates simple elegance. Classically styled with a proscenium stage and sprung floor it has everything budding thespians could want; dressing rooms, green room, stage manager room, rehearsal studio and box office. Wood panels are dark, the ceiling a soothing shade of blue, bare light bulbs glow in detailed metal fixtures, all very quaint. The lights are dimmed and the show begins, set in an L A apartment, we immediately meet the lead character Loli; a country girl looking for fame in the big city. Quickly, Sheena appears, a Hollywood starlet grown tired of the nonsense that comes with being a celebrity. Each longing for the other’s life, they form a unique friendship. Along the way we are introduced to an agent named Galaxy, a stalker and cousin Joe Don; the play has really funny moments and some hilarious one-liners. We love coming to this theatre, simple to get to, easy parking and beautiful, intimate surroundings.

Tags: Detroit Blog, Field Trip, Gothic Architecture, La Dolce Vita, Marygrove College, Palmer Woods, Theatre in Detroit, Travel, U of D Mercy

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Categories Eat, Visit

DETROIT: Checkin’ Out the Fisher…

10 Feb

Detroit has suddenly become tour-riffic; you can see the city on foot, bicycle, bus, boat or Segway. You can learn about history, architecture, where to eat or have a cocktail, you can even go behind the scenes… Today we are touring “Detroit’s largest art object” otherwise known as the Fisher Building. Built in 1928, designed by (all together now….) Albert Kahn, paid for by the Fisher brothers as a gift to the city, the building is an Art Deco masterpiece. First some stats: The building stands 28 stories tall on W Grand Blvd, it has two 11-story wings, 641 bronze elevator doors and 1,275 miles of electrical and telephone wire. It was built in 15 months by Michigan contractors and workers.

Pure Detroit is hosting their free weekly tour, we meet our guide Ryan in the lobby, 3-stories tall with a barrel-vaulted hand-painted ceiling, it is breath-taking. Today, in a special exhibit, a group of giant paper mache heads are scattered about the main floor vying for our attention. On loan from The Parade Company, they were originally created by artists in Viareggio Italy, some date back to the 1940’s. Two clown heads greet us first, painted cartoon style, the colors are bright and glossy. Continuing on we meet a pair of reindeer, an alligator and a blue hippo, a purple bug and a bumble bee are super cute. Further on we come face to face with the Pirates of the Big Head collection, finely detailed, they sport tattoos, gold earrings and a treasure chest. I can see the old Italian newsprint in areas where the paint has chipped away. Many are in need of restoration, the exhibit hopes to encourage individuals to ‘adopt’ a big head, making donations to support the cost of restoration.

The tour moves onward down the long corridor, we learn the building is constructed of Minnesota granite and Maryland marble. The original theater entrance lobby with it’s fluted marble pillars is stunning; in total, 40 varieties of marble from all of the world line the interior of the building. Near the Grand Blvd entrance, three original mosaics created by Geza Morati are as beautiful as the day they were completed, a brass piece in the floor is roped off, saving it from the wear of foot traffic. On the third floor we marvel at the frescos covering the ceiling; flora, fauna, hemlock, muses and red-haired cherubs were designed by Geza Maroti and painted by Antonio and Tomas de Lorenzo, at this level we can actually touch the arches, chandeliers seem only an arms length away. Ryan tells us the back in the day the ceiling was washed with buttermilk. He goes on to explain the symbolism of the eagles, the inclusion of commerce, transportation, art, agriculture and how the building reflected the new purely American style.

A single elevator leads to the 26th floor, we must divide into groups as the elevator cannot take everyone at once. The doors open, we find ourselves in the Reception Room; back in the day floors 25-27 had a dining room, kitchen, living room and private elevator as this is where the Fisher brothers had their offices. At one time Persian rugs and massive hand-carved desks rested on the floor, very masculine. Dark walnut paneling, scrolled plaster ceiling, a fireplace and bronze chandeliers remain, I can’t say the same for the rest of the floor. Drop ceilings cap off empty rooms, but then there’s 360 degree view of the Detroit skyline. As we move from window to window taking in the sights Ryan tells us the Fisher building was originally topped with gold-leaf faced tile. During WWII it was feared the glimmering tower would become a target for bombings, it was covered with an asphalt material; after the war, the tower was covered with green terracotta tile as you see today. The Fisher family sold the building in 1962, in 2001 the Farbman Group of Southfield purchased the structure, an interesting bit of info: David Farbman, President and CEO of the Farbman Group has a family connection to the Fisher, Albert Kahn was his Great-Grand Uncle!

The tour ends, back on the main floor we stop in at Stella Cafe for a cup of coffee. Recently remodeled using reclaimed wood the shop is bright and pleasant. A series of 3 yellow lamps dangle above the counter, the same marble floor graces the space. Stella roasts their own coffee beans, in addition they offer a selection of teas, juices, sweets, yogurt, soup and sandwiches. We drink our coffee surrounded by the beauty of the building. Vera Jane is just around the corner, offering a unique selection of handbags, lingerie, clothing and accessories, I like to stop in anytime we are in the building. Workshop is the latest retail addition, the shop sells handmade furniture created from Detroit reclaimed lumber. Vacant houses are disassembled, the wood is removed, sanded and refinished, James Willer of Reclaim Detroit and Kevin Borsay of Pure Detroit, then create furniture from the pieces. On display are dining tables, benches, shelving and coffee tables; each piece comes with the address of the house the wood came from, cool. I also love the wallpaper which comes from The Detroit Wallpaper Co.

We stop in at Pure Detroit to say thanks for the tour, referred to as “The Store of All Things Detroit”, husband and wife team Kevin and Shawn were the first to create a totally Detroit-centric shop. Through the years they have grown from a single store to three, each in a landmark building, and have added Stella and Rowland Cafe to the family.Their passion for the city is obvious in everything they do. We wander among all of the clothing, books, art, Pewabic Pottery and snacks, near the counter is an awesome model of the Fisher built from Legos, groovy! Kris purchases a hat and we are off…..

The tour and shopping have left us starving, we park in the lot at Third Street Bar to grab some lunch. The room is dimly lit, tables are made from split logs, there’s a fireplace to the left, above it logs have been sliced into thin pieces and attached to the wall creating interesting patterns. It is late afternoon, the skee ball, dart board and shuffleboard table are still. We are here for some Dangerously Delicious Pie. I walk to the back corner where I find a wall- mounted menu of savory and sweet pies, on a table, a doorbell-like button says “press for service”, so I do. I place the order, pay the man and join Kris back at the table. Before long, two pie tins piled high with leafy green salad and a piece of pie arrive. The BBQ pork is unbelievably delicious, the meat just falls apart, it is juicy and flavorful, the crust is to die for. The ham and cheese quiche is divine, it has the same wonderful crust; you get a nice slice of pie and a generous portion of salad for just 6 bucks. As much as we would like to try a piece of one of the dessert pies, we just can’t do it. The bar is open daily, pies are served for lunch, dinner and late night, we’ll be back………

Tags: Albert Kahn, Coffee Shop, Dangerously Delicious Pies, Fisher Building, Pure Detroit, Tours, Travel, Vera Jane, Workshop

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Categories Eat, Visit

DETROIT: Ponyride

20 Jan

Shop Small, Buy Local, these are phrases we hear daily; with the explosion of entrepreneurship in Detroit, it is becoming easier to do just that. At one time an individual had to have drive, a college degree and a hefty bank loan to open an independent business. These days with hard work, determination, passion and help from non-profits like Ponyride, artisans and social entrepreneurs are given the opportunity to open a business with low start-up costs. Ponyride purchased a 30,000 sq ft warehouse on Vermont for $100,000.00, space rents for approximately $0.25 per sq ft, which includes the cost of utilities. The low-cost of rent allows the tenants to concentrate on the creative side of their business without always having to worry about making their next rent payment. The mission is this: “Ponyride nurtures collaboration using shared resources, knowledge and ideas to cultivate opportunities created by the strength and crises of Detroit. Participants serve Detroit communities by sharing their craft and expertise.” In other words, individuals work as a team; they assist one another, teach classes, volunteer their time–everybody wins!

Tonight Ponyride is hosting an open-house and Makers Mart, in addition to seeing the renters spaces, pop-up businesses are also selling their wares. When we arrive the surrounding streets are lined with parked cars, lights blaze from the second story windows, we walk to the building joining up with others who are attending the event. Inside, the place is jumping! Strands of white lights criss-cross the ceiling, the crowd is packed shoulder to shoulder. To the left the space opens up into one large room, individual vendors line the walls; we find artisans selling paintings, fiber arts, jewelry, clothing and Wolf Moon Mixers, fresh juice combinations to mix with your favorite spirits. Tonight they are selling bottles of Watermelon Mint, Hibiscus Margarita Mix and Citrus Mix, they look beautiful too! We meander the maze that is the first floor, Beard Balm has a large table stacked with tins of, well, Beard Balm, a leave-in conditioner for, you guessed it-beards. They distribute their products from the building. We enter a space with a vintage band saw and miniature water towers, hhmm….. I’d like one for my yard.

Through a doorway we are greeted with the scent of fresh ground coffee from Anthology, the Smith Shop, a metalworking studio, has a huge display of pieces for sale; jewelry made from nails, housewares, hardware, belt buckles, all very cool. In addition they host classes, workshops and private lessons from their space. We see a familiar face at the Sister Pie table, Lisa makes delicious pastries, after tasting every one of her samples, we purchase a package of her Buckwheat Chocolate Chip Cookies–yum! Next we stumble upon a woodworking area, pieces of furniture are in multiple stages of completion, canning jars holding white pillar candles are set about, we recognize yet another face, this space belongs to Kaija–architect, entrepreneur, furniture maker, you name it, she is also a board member of Ponyride. A short stairway leads us to the basement, home to Beehive Recording Company. Instruments, monitors and speakers fill the large room. Recording bands for free since 2010, they have captured over 68 different artists ranging from Jazz to punk, rock and roll to hip hop.

The second floor is equally as crowded, Dirt Label has several racks filled with t-shirts, sweatshirts and caps. Detroit Denim occupies a large portion of the second floor, they design, cut, sew, and finish all of their jeans in this shop using only US sourced materials. I love the vintage industrial sewing machines, they say some of them are over 100 years old! Our noses lead us over to the Batata Shop (Batata is Spanish for sweet potato), tables are covered in orange and yellow cloths, menus list tonight’s offering, waffles made from sweet potato and whole wheat flour. Stukenborg Press is both an art studio and an educational facility that teaches letterpress techniques; the letters are fascinating to look at. We traverse the second floor through hallways and sectioned off spaces, Cyberoptix is selling ties, we watch another group as they silkscreen shirts and bags, the Sushi looks amazing….

The thing we find most intriguing the entire night is an organization called The Empowerment Plan, you may have read about it. The non-profit organization hires homeless women from local shelters and trains them to be full-time seamstresses. They manufacture a coat that transforms into a sleeping bag, which is then given out to homeless people living on the streets at no cost to them. Made from left over scraps of sound absorbing material from the Chevy Malibu and Buick Verano, the coats are self heated and waterproof, how amazing is that? I encourage you to click here and read more about it. Veronika Scott created The Empowerment plan as a 20-year-old woman in 2011, the coats are made right here.

It is a short drive to Vince’s Italian Restaurant in Southwest Detroit. A neighborhood staple since 1960, Vince’s was founded by Vincenzo and Maria Perfili. Beginning as a 4-table pizza parlor, through the years it has grown into the restaurant you see today. The dining room is decked out for Christmas, glass covers the lace tablecloths, booths and chairs are upholstered in gold fabric, murals depict life in Italy. As we glance over the menu a basket of warm bread is placed on our table, it’s the kind of bread you can make a meal out of, crispy outside, warm and tender inside, we’re going to need another basket….The combination salad is delicious; ham, salami, cheese and olives sitting atop perfectly dresses greens. The cannelloni is drenched in a creamy white sauce, the cheese has been baked to a delicate brown, the meat filling, tasty. When we have finished, the plates are clean and there isn’t a crumb of bread to be found. It’s been another great night in Detroit.

Tags: Beehive Recording Company, Detroit Denim, Detroit Entrepreneurs, Makers Mart, Ponyride, The Empowerment Plan, Vince's Italian Restaurant

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Categories Eat, Happenings

DETROIT: Boats, Bagels and Beans ??

13 Jan

When the weather turns cold we head indoors to local museums to see the latest exhibits. Today we are on Belle Isle visiting the Dossin Great Lakes Museum; closed for five months for renovation we’re excited to see what’s new. The museum is dedicated to telling the story of maritime history on the Great Lakes and the Detroit River spanning 300 years; everything from shipping fleets and industry to social history. After parking in the lot we stop at the Miss Pepsi Pavilion for a look at the first hydroplane racing boat to top 100 mph. Raced by the Dossin family in the 1950’s, she’s quite a beauty; wood is varnished to a high shine, paint scheme is red, white and blue, the dashboard surprisingly ordinary. On the lawn nearby lies the bow anchor of the Edmund Fitzgerald, it’s huge!

Once inside I am happy to see the “Gothic Room” looking better than ever; removed from the passenger steamer City Of Detroit III before it was scrapped, the room exemplifies the golden age of Great Lakes cruise ships. The vessel carried passengers between Detroit and Cleveland or Detroit and Buffalo, the Gothic room itself was originally three times this size and even had a pipe organ. The elaborate English oak carvings are done in true Gothic design, stained glass windows and unique chandeliers exude elegance. Display cases in the room contain memorabilia such as dishes, schedules and renderings of the ship. No matter how many times we come here I am still in awe of the beauty of this room!

Further into the museum old exhibits have been revamped and new ones installed, here we find hands on activities; quite popular is the interactive video display simulating a speedboat racing down the Detroit River, there’s an 18th century re-creation of a canoe that you can climb into as the early settlers did. The newest permanent exhibit called Built By The River explains the ways in which Detroiter’s have used the rivers and lakes around us, did you know that at one time the Detroit River was the busiest waterway in the world or that Detroit shipyards built more vessels that any other city in the region? All pretty cool stuff! A River’s Roar will be on display until April, I highly recommend checking it out. It’s all about the history of hydroplane racing in Detroit. For over 100 years the Detroit River and Belle Isle have featured some of the finest racing in the country during the Gold Cup–the oldest trophy in Motorsports. Boats, trophies and artifacts along with vintage programs, pins and buttons are displayed behind glass. Trophies are quite elaborate and elegant, photos of racers such as Gar Wood, Guy Lombardo, Wild Bill Cantrell and Bill Muncey hang on walls along with stories about each man.

We stop to look at the showcases filled with model ships then make our way to the former pilot house of the SS William Clay Ford, one of the city’s most noted freighters. From here we look out across the river to Ontario Canada, the sunlight dancing on the river’s surface. The entire interior is painted mint green, children love to pretend they are captain standing at the ship’s wheel. A voice comes over a speaker, we are able to listen to communication between ships on the river, you can also watch the action on the river right from home by clicking on to the Detroit River Watch Webcam.

The Detroit Institute of Bagels on Michigan Ave opened Thanksgiving week and has been busy ever since. Reworking and adding on to an existing building, the end result is a cozy space made up of exposed red brick, beam ceiling, white walls and blonde wood floor. Tables line the perimeter of the space, we hang our coats on chairs in front of a sunny window then place our order. A handwritten menu board hangs behind the counter, metal baskets overflow with plain, sesame, poppy, salt, cinnamon raisin and everything bagels–made that morning they are boiled and then baked. There are six regular and small batch flavors such as bacon cheddar or rosemary olive oil available each day. While we wait for our sandwiches to be made we peek into the open kitchen, it gleams in white and stainless steel, the bakers are finished for the day. We have ordered two different sandwiches, each taking a half we dig in; the ham, egg and cheese on a salt bagel is delicious, the bagel tender with enough filling to make it hearty. The turkey, bacon, avocado is a handful, lots of textures working together; chewy bagel, crispy bacon, creamy avocado–yum! Definitely get a new dill pickle with your sandwich, they’re excellent! Open everyday except Tuesday, give ’em a try.

Often we like to end the day with coffee, located just a few blocks away we choose Anthology Coffee in the Ponyride building on Vermont St. Outside the building a small sandwich board reads ‘Coffee’, an arrow points to a wall covered in black and white graffiti. The space inside is stark; cinderblock walls, four singular light bulbs hang above a simple counter. A chalkboard menu is surrounded by a woodplank wall, a barista is busy at work measuring and weighing coffee beans. I walk over to the counter as Kris explores the space, I order a decaf for me and an iced coffee for Kris. On the tiny counter rests a coffee grinder, scale, pots of hot water, paper filters and a variety of glass bottles. I watch with interest as the beans are ground, then placed in a filter where hot water is poured over them, I love the scent of fresh ground coffee, the process takes several minutes. As Kris wanders over to grab his drink he notices a plate of triangular bar cookies, we each take one, they go perfect with our coffee. Anthology keeps it simple: Source Roast Brew Tasty Coffee. You can’t ask for more than that!

Tags: Anthology Coffee, Belle Isle, Detroit Institute of Bagels, Dossin Great Lakes Museum, Pony Ride, Travel, visit detroit

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Categories Eat, Visit

DETROIT: Staycation…

7 Jan

There’s not a better night’s sleep to be found than a night in the Raymond C Smith Carriage house at the Inn on Ferry Street. Upon waking we dress and walk the short distance to the main house of the Inn, the John Scott House; this is where guests check in and where breakfast and refreshments are served. The house itself is an orange brick Queen Ann with a wide front porch, built in 1886-87, original owner John Scott was a well-known architect. Scott’s firm, John Scott & Co. took in a young Albert Kahn (apparently he was everywhere!) as an apprentice, but let him go because he didn’t think Kahn had a future in the business–oops! The home, 84 E Ferry, resides on land that was originally part of the Ferry Seed Company, the property was later developed into an upper class neighborhood. Today the Inn consists of four restored Victorian homes and two carriage houses, close to museums, the DMC and Wayne State University.

We enter the house through the back door, the aroma of fresh brewed coffee permeates the air, guests conversation creates a low hum. The breakfast area is lovely; walls are olive green, a fireplace of rectangular glazed tiles graces the back wall, ceiling and walls are accented with beautiful wood. We choose a table near a large window, morning light streams in. We hang our jackets on the chair backs, grab plates and fill them with items like scrambled eggs, waffles, fresh fruit, muffins and yogurt; there is also an assortment of coffee, tea and juices. As we eat, the Inns shuttle driver arrives, he is driving a group of guests downtown; the shuttle is free and will drop you off and pick you up within a 5-mile radius. When we have finished our breakfast I sip my coffee slowly as we decide how we will spend the rest of our day.

The luggage is loaded and we have checked out. We walk to the end of the block, at the corner of Woodward and Kirby we step inside the Park Shelton. Built in 1926 as a residential hotel called The Wardell, it was named for Fred Wardell, founder of the Eureka Co. Interestingly enough, Kris’s mom and dad spent their honeymoon here back in the 1940’s, even more notable, Diego Rivera lived here while working on his mural at the DIA. The hotel was later bought by Sheraton and in the 1950’s renamed The Park Shelton Hotel; accommodations were luxurious, celebrities such as Bob Hope, George Burns, Gracie Allen and Raymond Burr were guests. In the 1970’s it became apartments, in 2004 the building was redeveloped into 227 luxury condos with retail and restaurants on the ground floor. The lobby has maintained its elegance with indoor fountains, rectangular columns capped in gold leaf, ornate plaster ceilings, dark marble accents and a gorgeous antique clock that hangs near the reception desk.

Down the hall we wander into the Peacock Room, this is one of those pretty stores; gorgeous architecture and decor, clever displays, attractive merchandise for women featuring great hats, handbags, jewelry, clothing…… Everything a girl needs and then some! A few feet down, we duck into Goods LLC, mainly selling customized and Detroit-centric t-shirts, the shop also sells items from local artisans. Exiting through the Woodward door we proceed to Emerald, the newest of the shops in the Park Shelton, mainly a men’s store they have a wonderful selection of hats, gloves, scarves, ties, cuff links and shaving goods. The space is attractive, the chandelier came from an old theater downriver, it’s super cool, someone told me display cabinets came from the old downtown Hudsons. They have a nice selection of gift items and books too.

After all that shopping we find ourselves hungry, lucky for us Good Girls Go To Paris Crepes is only a few steps away. Bright red walls are covered with French movie posters, the chalkboard menus of sweet and savory crepes have grown through the years. I order at the counter as Kris finds us a table, it seems this place is always busy. Owner Torya is behind the counter making crepes today, she makes it look so easy the way she spreads the batter, adds the filling and neatly folds each one. The Seine arrives first, a simple crepe with butter and sugar, to me there’s nothing better. The Dana is filled with chicken, Brie, sun-dried tomatoes, basil and herbs, it is delicious. We drop into 14 East next, serving gourmet coffee, tea and pastries it’s also a bit of an art gallery; furniture and decor are reminiscent of Mid Century design. We order at the counter, cold brew coffee for Kris and a pour over for myself.

We are less than a block from the DIA, we decide to stop in and have a look. It’s Sunday, the museum is active with tours, drop-in workshops, drawing in the galleries and the Sunday Music Bar in Kresge Court. We observe visitors of all ages at easels creating pencil drawings with the assistance of artists. The Contemporary Art gallery is one of our favorites, spanning the mid 20th century to present day, we find great American art from abstract painting to Pop Art. After a leisurely stroll through the building it is time to call it a day. It has been a fantastic weekend get-away, and we never had to leave our home town!

Tags: Bed & Breakfast, Blogtastic, Corrado Parducci, DIA, Inn on Ferry, Midtown Shopping, Park Shelton, Restaurants, Staycation, Travel, visit detroit, Wardell Hotel

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Categories Eat, Shop

DETROIT: Lush Life

23 Dec

We are celebrating our anniversary with a little staycation; fine dining, world-class opera, a luxurious stay at a bed and breakfast. The best part is we don’t have to drive far, all of this and more can be found right here in downtown Detroit! We arrive at the Inn on Ferry Street, we are shown to our temporary quarters in the Raymond C Smith Carriage House. Built in 1892 as a carriage house, it was converted to a single family home in 1926. Today the entire second story is a three-room suite consisting of two bedrooms, full bath and sitting room–wow! Furniture is Arts and Crafts style, colors are warm, the rooms cozy and inviting. We slip out of our everyday clothes and replace them with our evening attire, one must get dressed up for a night on the town.

First opened in 1938 by Gruber brothers Lester and Sam, the London Chop House is the best-known restaurant in Detroit history. Operating for 53 years in the Murphy Telegraph Building, the legendary restaurant closed in 1991. In February 2012 an amazing thing happened, after a year of restoration and refurbishing Nico Gatzaros re-opened the Chop House, even the old phone number is back. We park on W. Congress, an illuminated awning fronts a nondescript door, we descend the stairway to a host stand where we are greeted and our coats are checked. One step into the dining room the air just feels different, the space looks much as it did in its heyday; the long oak bar and mirrored back wall are all original as are the famous circular red leather booths and banquettes, even the built-in telephone booths are working again. This place has an amazing history of guests who have dined here; locals such as Henry Ford II, the Fishers, Stroh’s, Harley Earl, sat side by side with musicians and entertainers such as Bob Hope, Gary Cooper, Frank Sinatra and John Barrymore. In 1961 James Beard named it one of the top 10 best restaurants in America; it was the epitome of fine dining and patrons dressed the part. In one newspaper clipping I read it said “Deals were done and fortunes were made over thick pieces of steak and expensive wines”. I like to think that somehow all of that history and energy is absorbed into the walls creating a mojo of its own.

We cross the room to our table, holiday decorations adorn the space, diners are dressed up for the occasion. Our server is attentive and friendly, after explaining the specials she leaves us to peruse the menu. We start with a salad, citrus marinated hearts of palm, bibb lettuce, charred bell peppers. avocado and lump crab, outstanding. I order the Salmon served with broccoli rabe, pecan pesto and beet relish, Kris chooses the Bourbon Brined Pork Loin with apricot marmalade, bacon, sweet onion and frisee salad. Both meals were very good, the service impeccable; our glasses were never empty and nary a crumb littered the table-cloth.

We have tickets to see La Traviata at the Detroit Opera House. Of all the theaters in Detroit, I think the Opera House is the most elegant. Designed by C Howard Crane (who also did the Fox, State and Orchestra Hall) it opened in 1922 as the Capitol Theatre, in addition to showing movies they also had live entertainment; both Louis Armstrong and Duke Ellington performed here. Through the years the theater changed names, it was the Paramount, Broadway Capitol and finally the Grand Circus Theater. At the end, the lovely plaster work had all been painted black and punk rock bands took the stage. When they finally shuttered the place someone neglected to turn off the water, by the time the Michigan Opera Theatre became interested in the building the orchestra pit was filled with water and most of the plaster had fallen. Jump forward to 1996, after millions of dollars spent on a remarkable (some even thought impossible) restoration, the Michigan Opera Theatre celebrated the grand opening of their new home with a performance by Luciano Pavarotti.

We enter the grand Ford Lobby, women wear fancy dresses, gowns, sequins and mink coats, men look dapper in their dark suits and colorful ties. Magnificent crystal chandeliers illuminate the space, the carpet is an exact reproduction of the original. We climb the staircase to the second floor, the view from here is dazzling; beautifully decorated Christmas trees are placed here and there, white lights wrap ornate railings, plaster is finely detailed and painted blue and cream. Inside the auditorium itself gold leaf abounds, ceiling patterns are larger here, the proscenium is painted solid gold, the curtain shimmers in red.

La Traviata premiered in Venice in 1853, tonight we are commemorating the 200th anniversary of Giuseppe Verdi, La Traviata stands as the most-performed opera around the world to date; once you see it, you’ll know why. The lights dim and the curtain rises to enthusiastic applause. One of the things I love about going to the opera is the passion of the audience; we clap for the scenery, the costumes, and of course the incredible performers. Violetta and Alfredo capture our hearts in Act I, Alfredo’s father, Giorgio Germont shows up in Act II to cause trouble, I wouldn’t dare tell you what happens in Act III ! Many songs are familiar, the music is enchanting, mesmerizing, heart-wrenching, Verdi at his best. Sung in Italian, there is little need to read the English subtitles to follow the story, I can hardly take my eyes off the cast. Almost three hours later the story comes to a close, the crowd is on its feet, cheers of “Bravo” fill the air.

The temperature outside has dropped into the teens, we make a quick dash back to the car, a night-cap would be perfect. Since we are all dressed up we will end our evening with cocktails at Roast. Located on the ground floor of the Westin Book Cadillac, Michael Symon opened this meat-centric restaurant in 2008. He has since won numerous culinary awards and can be found regularly on the Food Network and ABC’s The Chew. The bar area has a contemporary feel, the place is hopping, we manage to find two seats at the bar. iPads are scattered across the counter, it takes us a few minutes to realize these are the menus. Kris is usually good with a VO and Diet Coke, so he goes with it, I decide to scroll through the menu. After going through the lists of wine by the glass, beer, cocktails and spirits I decide simple is best and order a rum and coke. We leisurely sip our cocktails while watching the comings and goings of people in the restaurant and hotel. It has been an amazing evening, tonight we are definitely living the lush life!

Tags: Detroit, Detroit Opera House, Fine Dining, Inn on Ferry, London Chop House, Michigan Opera Theater, Music, Roast, Travel

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Categories Drink, Eat

Packard Proving Grounds

14 Dec

Detroit’s rich automotive and manufacturing history spreads far beyond the city limits. Today we are in Macomb County, Shelby Township to be exact, visiting the Packard Proving Grounds Historic Site. In 1927 the Packard Motor Car Company began constructing a testing facility on 560 acres of farmland in Shelby Twp. Designed by (don’t you know it) Albert Kahn, the steel-framed buildings were state-of-the-art in their day. The Lodge was home to proving grounds manager Charles Vincent and his family, with the start of WWII, the family left the Lodge in 1942. Packard continued to use the property until 1958, it was then sold to Curtiss-Wright, who in turn sold it to Ford Motor Company in 1961. By 1998 Ford no longer had use for the property. After a long series of negotiations the acquisition of the total site was a combination of a gift from Ford Motor Land Development Corp. and purchase by the Packard Motor Car Foundation.

It is a chilly late Autumn day, a combination open house and car show is being held on the property. A line of cars has formed gaining entrance to the event, rows of vehicles are parked on the front lawn, the familiar scent of exhaust fumes fill the air. Everywhere I look people are milling about, vintage Packards are parked along the garage area, they are beautiful, elegant, dazzling. Many have Art Deco style designs and trim, colors range from rich jewel tones to creamy neutrals, spare tires are mounted on the side like a decoration, hood ornaments are large and showy, and then there’s the chrome…….. Most models had a letter or a number for a name: Model K, N, the Dominant Six or Super Eight, later they used names like the Caribbean, Clipper and Hawk. The vehicles are a testament to the era they were designed and equally as attractive today.

The Lodge is open for tours today. We enter through the kitchen, renovation is an ongoing process, the vintage sink, stove and refrigerator are from the 1920’s. Passing through the sitting room it is pointed out that the fireplace brick was laid in Kahn’s signature herringbone design, the foyer floor is original Pewabic tile. Upstairs we find a series of bedrooms, the Vincent’s had three daughters, the youngest, Roberta is living in Arizona today, but has been back to visit the house. Windows are leaded glass, photos, books and Packard advertisements are displayed, wet plaster is under repair, yellow caution tape abounds. The master bedroom overlooks the main gate and the Princeton Elms that line the boulevard. We come to a hallway leading past several dormitory-style rooms, these were used by visitors to the Proving Grounds. Most interesting is the Radio Room. Mr. Vincent was a ham radio enthusiast; he designed and built the equipment used in the first successful air-to-ground radio-phone communication which was done at the Proving Grounds in 1929. The tour ends back downstairs in the living room, currently used as a Board Room for meetings, the room is similar to its original appearance, complete with fireplace.

Back outside we cross the courtyard to the Repair Garage, once used as an experimental and engineering laboratory, today the Johnny Trudell Orchestra is playing big band favorites, Packard’s are randomly parked throughout the building garnering much deserved attention. On view are a number of engines complete with that signature Packard script, the 1956 showroom display chassis has drawn a crowd, Kris and I catch a glimpse of the stonework that surrounded the main entrance at the original Packard building in Detroit, safe at last. On loan for the day from the Algonac/Clay Twp Historical Society is the Miss America X. On September 20, 1932 Commodore Gar Wood set a speed record of 108.48 knots for a nautical mile and 124.71 knots for a statue mile. Powered by four 12 cylinder Packard engines, they are arranged as a two bank unit of two 24-cylinder engines creating 6,400 hp. A platform allows us to get an up-close view of Miss America X, she’s a beauty! Dials, gauges and levers cover the interior, the engine gleams in orange paint, the wooden hull is varnished to a high shine. We’ll have to visit the museum soon.

Behind the building an elevated water storage tank stands high above the proving grounds, a sight familiar to me since I was a little girl. Just beyond sits a 4,000 sq ft hangar, now called the Lindbergh Hangar. In 1929 Col Charles Lindbergh visited the site to test-fly a Packard-powered airplane. At the back of the property the original timing stand and a 458 ft section of the test track remain. The second level of the timing stand provides a panoramic view of the proving grounds. Back in the day we would be overlooking a 2.5 mile oval track specifically built for high-speed testing. They say it was so well-engineered that drivers could travel around the banked curves in excess of 100 mph without holding the steering wheel. In 1928 Leon Duray set a World’s record for a closed course of 148 + mph, making the test oval the fastest in the World. Volunteers are taking visitors for a ride around the grounds in vintage Packards, we go for a spin, the drive ends and we are dropped off near the gate. Thanks to the support and donations by members of the old-car hobby, automotive historians and the local community, this site has been preserved and is now on the National Register of Historic Places; this is more than Detroit history, it is the history of our Nation.

Bad Brad’s BBQ is located nearby on 23 Mile Rd, serving up delicious beef brisket and pork shoulder, the restaurant is a wonderful addition to the area. The interior is a combination of wood planks, brick and corrugated metal, the main dining room offers tables, booths and bar seating, they also have an awesome patio. Meats are steeped in fruit wood and hickory smoke for up to 14 hours, everything on the menu is made from scratch. Our Classic BBQ sandwich is piled high with sliced brisket, a wooden skewer stuck through the middle holds it together. House made sauces are on the table, I recommend trying each and every one. The kettle style BBQ chips go nicely with the sandwich, a side of cornbread is a must!

Stony Creek Metropark is just a short drive from here, so we decide to extend the day with a walk and visit to the Nature Center. Much of Stony Creek was part of Valley Creek Farm, a weekend getaway for the Charles Hodges Sr family of Grosse Pointe from 1928 until the metroparks purchased the property in the mid 1950’s. Here we find prairies, woodlands and wetlands, trees like Norway Spruce and Norway Maple were planted by the family and are not native to the area. We begin our walk on the Reflection Trail, fallen leaves crunch under our feet, my face and hands are getting cold. A boardwalk leads to a lookout over a river, colorful leaves reflect off the water. The trail provides many places to stop and take in picturesque views. We keep our eyes open for wildlife such as birds, ducks, fish and turtles, something runs across the trail, we follow the sound and watch a cute little chipmunk have a bite to eat.We warm up a bit in the Nature Center, the building resembles a lodge, lovely wood beams make up the ceiling, large windows fill the walls, it has that “up north” feeling. Glass aquariums contain live frogs, snakes and turtles. Tall cabinets display examples of fox, ducks, hawks and owls, wow, some of them are huge! The view is tranquil, chairs are placed near windows overlooking bird feeders, I can feel myself relax as I watch the birds come and go. The scenery changes with every season.

Tags: Albert Kahn, Automobiles, Bad Brad's BBQ, Cars, Detroit History, Historic Packard Proving Grounds, Shelby Twp, Stony Creek Nature Center, Travel

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Categories Eat, Visit

DETROIT: Midtown Chill….

8 Dec

Have you ever noticed how something as simple as a cup of coffee or a glass of wine tastes so much better when you are in beautiful surroundings? And there’s nothing like a cozy public space to make you feel part of the local community. The new Living Room at the DIA accomplishes both of these things and more. As long-time members of the DIA we often find ourselves popping into the museum to check out a current exhibit or visit a favorite gallery. As a member or resident of Wayne, Oakland or Macomb county, admission is free, so you no longer need to set a whole day aside to explore the entire museum, you can drop in for an hour or an afternoon. The recent renovation of Kresge Court into Detroit’s grandest living room is just one more reason to visit this extraordinary building. Did you know the first Van Gogh painting to enter a US museum was Self Portrait (1887) right here at the DIA?

Today the sole purpose of our coming here is to have a coffee while sitting on a comfy leather sofa and do a little people watching. The space is wonderful! Originally an outdoor courtyard, the room is surrounded by elegant dark brick walls with inlaid carved stone designs, topiaries, greenery and wrought iron pergola put me in the mind of an English garden. Seating groups are spaced throughout the room, the furniture a mix of traditional and modern; power outlets are readily available. Tall wood library tables are installed with iPads, area rugs add warmth and complete the look. Here you can curl up with a good book while snacking on a cheese or chacuterie plate, meet friends for a beer or glass of wine, page through one of many art books available for your viewing pleasure while sipping a piping hot cup of Starbucks coffee. On Friday nights Tapas are served. If you’re looking for somewhere new to meet friends, do some work or just relax, this is the spot!

Our next destination is just a little way down Woodward, from now until December 28th the Detroit Artists Market (DAM) is hosting Art For The Holidays! 125 area artists have put their best creations on display for you to purchase as gifts for friends and family this holiday season. The gallery is festive, decked out in holiday lights strung from the ceiling, snacks and beverages are complimentary today. The elongated space is crowded with shoppers this afternoon. Unique items are arranged on pedestals, tables and shelves; glass pieces seem to glow under the halogen lights. The variety of the pieces is refreshing; clever items like original stuffed animal characters make me smile. There’s a colorful array of fiber articles, scarves and purses for every style, jewelry is plentiful. Photos, books and cards along with glass, ceramics, cool paintings and metal work make it easy to shop for even the most difficult to buy for. The gallery has terrific objects all year around, but I have to admit, this is my favorite time to visit.

The N’namdi Center for Contemporary Art is tucked away on E Forest in the Sugar Hill Arts District, we love this building. The fascade is limestone with gorgeous detail surrounding huge windows. The gallery showcases national and emerging local artists with a series of curated and juried exhibitions. The building also houses a performance art theater. The front room has raspberry colored walls, today it is set up like a living room; furniture is made of clocks, dozens of watch faces, lots of shells and beads, I wouldn’t dare sit on it! The main gallery is my favorite area; the ceiling is exposed beams, it looks like knotty pine, the wooden floor is silent as we walk. The current exhibit features large black-framed photographs, I feel as though I am looking directly into the subjects eyes. At the back of the space we enter a small enclosed gallery with nautical blue walls, brightly colored paintings line all four walls. We stop in often as there is always something new to see.

We are off to try the latest restaurant to open in Midtown, La Feria, on Cass Ave. Serving hot (calientes) and cold (frias) tapas, the owners have brought a little bit of Spain to Detroit. Open from 11 to 3, and then again from 5 to 11, we settled on a late lunch to hopefully avoid a long wait. There are two empty tables, we help ourselves to the high-top in the front window, the late afternoon sun warms our backs as we glance at the menu. The place is lively, tables are filled with jovial customers passing dishes and catching up with one another. The ceiling is a deep blue, a red soffit adds a splash of color above the bar, a small chalkboard calls out today’s specials. Everything on the menu sounds delicious, our waitress is super friendly and helpful in our decision making. We start with a glass of house made red Sangria, be sure to have one yourself……First to arrive is the ensalada mixta: tender greens, cucumber, red onion, hard boiled eggs and Spanish olives, sprinkled with coarse salt. The tortilla Espanola is next, two triangular slices of cold Spanish omlette with fried potatoes and carmelized onion topped with roasted red pepper strips, mmmmmm, really good! The Sabor de Espana is a charcuterie board with exceptionally good meats, cheeses and charred bread, we had the small one and it was just right for the two of us. The food is outstanding, we look forward to eating our way through the entire menu!

After all the savory food, we are in a mood for something sweet, a new gelato shop called Melt opened just down the street and is creating quite a buzz in the neighborhood. Walking the short distance I take notice of the foot traffic on the block; folks are out walking their dogs, a bag of puppy chow slung over their shoulder, undoubtedly purchased from Cass Corridog. Young couples push baby carriages, college students bear the weight of heavy backpacks after a study session. Inside, the air is scented with the aroma of coffee and sugar, walls contrast in deep red and bright white, the counter is lined with cookies and treats. The gelato case is near the back, stainless steel compartments are piled high with multi-colored flavors; grapefruit sorbetto, roasted pistachio, autumn spice, and, our choice, bourbon caramel gingersnap–it tastes even better than it sounds! Our plastic cup is piled high with the creamy substance, we sit at a table overlooking the sidewalk, for a second I forget where I am. For as long as I can remember this is the Detroit I have been dreaming of; cute little shops, great restaurants, a neighborhood ice cream shop, pedestrians crowding the streets. I have to admit there were days I had my doubts, but I never lost my faith.

Tags: art, Best Blog ever!, DAM, Detroit, DIA, La Feria, Melt, N'namdi, Restaurant, Travel

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Categories Drink, Eat, Shop

DETROIT: It’s getting better all the time….

1 Dec

These days it seems a new restaurant is opening in Detroit every couple of weeks, as dutiful citizens we must do our part to patronize these independent establishments. I mean if somebody goes through all the trouble to open a place, the least we can do is eat there, right? Today we are having a late lunch at Ottava Via on the corner of Michigan Ave and 8th Street (hence the name). Open just a short time, we are anxious to give it a try. The building itself was built sometime in the early 20th century, brown brick and white terracotta, it began life as the Dime Bank, did time as a bakery and before its current reincarnation was a pawn shop, the red-letter LOAN sign is still attached to the building. The inside has a rustic charm, architectural elements are a mix of vintage and contemporary; terazzo floors, high ceilings, communal tables and a gorgeous clock add to the atmosphere. The menu features Neapolitan style pizza baked in a stone oven, antipasti, share plates and pasta dishes. Our meal arrives quickly, the chopped salad is delicious; the greens are fresh with some crunch, the basil is a nice touch, meat is thinly sliced in bite-size pieces. The vegetarian pizza is flavorful, the crust Neapolitan-style thin, toppings include mushrooms, asparagus, onion and olives laying atop a tasty red sauce, yum!

A little way down Michigan Ave Two James Spirits, the first licensed Distillery to open in Detroit since prohibition, is serving handmade spirits in their very own tasting room. Kris and I have a seat at the circular granite bar, the bartender slides a couple of drink menus over and we have a look. Currently the selection of spirits consists of 28 Island Vodka, Old Cockney Gin and Grass Widow Bourbon, all are made in house. I order a vodka and tonic, Kris has something made with bourbon and Faygo Rock & Rye, the cocktails are excellent! The space is really cool, old wooden barrels create a dividing wall between tasting room and distillery, metal globes dangle from a ring above the bar, colorful art decorates walls. The back wall displays bottles of spirits and T-shirts for sale, most patrons are purchasing a bottle to take with them. It’s a great place to enjoy a cocktail and lively conversation.

Next stop, Detroit Farm and Garden on 21st Street in Mexicantown. Located directly behind 555 Gallery, though it is not exactly gardening season, I love to stop in and see what’s going on at the store. In addition to supplying bulk materials such as top soil, compost, mulch, sand, pea gravel and such to the local community, they offer a nice selection of tools, containers, seeds and fertilizer. Antique and reclaimed furniture pieces are found throughout the space, other items for sale include body products, art, Slow Jams Jam and canning supplies. I check my watch, the gallery is open, time to go.

Detroit has long been home to art of all mediums. In the last couple of years the art scene in the D has gained notoriety throughout the country and overseas. The 555 Center for Public Arts is a non-profit group serving both emerging and established artists. The current facility holds studio spaces for resident and renting artists, performance space, exhibition and installation space and an arts education studio, even an original Banksy piece from the old Packard Plant has been preserved and is on display. Oh yeah, the building is the former Detroit Police Department 3rd Precinct-complete with jail cells! Today we are exploring the “Eye On The D”, Seeing Detroit With New Eyes. 18 artists express what inspires them about Detroit, how they see the future of the city and what it looks like in their imagination; c’mon let’s have a look.

Just inside the door people are gathered in clusters, beverages in hand, talking excitedly about the show. A folk singer is entertaining guests in the performance space; open mic’s are held regularly on the first and third Saturday of the month. We avoid the crowd by taking a left, here jail cells are now rented out as studio space, very clever, some are fixed up as little boutiques. Wandering from cell to cell there is a great variety of things to look at; vintage apparel, paintings in oils and watercolors, drawings, photography, ceramics and handmade clothing. A curious group of crows line the floor along the back wall, some have wheels, air pressure gauges, keys and bells attached to them, there’s something about them that I like.

We cut across the back and find ourselves in the main exhibit space, the work is very personal; paintings, collages convey the artists emotions. One of the featured artists is friend, fellow blogger and a favorite Detroit photographer Amy Sacka (http://www.owenwashere.com/). Amy has three photographs in the show, I am familiar with them, I saw their debut on the Owen blog. She has a way of capturing the spirit and electricity of the people in her photos, it’s like they are live images; Mr. Detroit is my favorite! On the other side of the room an artist has created a series of vintage-looking postcards, each features a well-known image with the words “Greetings From Detroit” across the scene, captions are taken straight from negative headlines such as the bankruptcy. There is a cloth sculpture of a car, another one of a house, a video is projected onto the floor. Near the back a sculpture studio is open to visitors, the work is so life-like we are amazed. A group of heads on wooden blocks rest on a shelf, nearby a larger body waits for a head, the detail is incredible. A full size sculpture of a woman sitting in a chair will have you doing a double take. We browse the gallery one more time before calling it a night. The quality of art in Detroit is truly exceptional, and the number of places to see it continues to grow.

Tags: 555 Gallery, Detroit Farm & Garden, Distillery, Ottava Via, Travel, Two James Distillery, visit detroit

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Categories Drink, Eat

Cranbrook & More !

6 Oct

I love this time of year; days are still warm, leaves are just beginning to change, evenings are getting cooler-hinting at what’s to come. Here in the Mitten it is harvest time, farmers markets are bursting at the seams with fresh produce; apples are plentiful this year. Today we are at the Birmingham Farmer’s Market, going on every Sunday from May to October, it takes place in Municipal Parking Lot #6 at the bottom of the hill on Old Woodward, each year it gets a little bigger. We are greeted by bunches of fresh-cut Zinnias, pots of Mums and music in the distance. We meander down the aisles, baskets are overflowing with ripe red tomatoes, peppers in a rainbow of colors from red to purple, fancy skinned eggplant and potatoes in a variety of shapes and shades. The marketplace continues to the left, behinds the Woodward storefronts, prepared foods are readily available, the hot dogs smell delicious. Jars of local honey are stacked on a table, they glow in the sunlight, plastic containers are filled with popcorn kernels, artists display their wares. The back of the lot is wooded, picnic tables invite shoppers to indulge in breakfast, lunch, or just sit with a cup of coffee and enjoy the surrounding activities. Vendors are set up under rows of white canopy’s offering baked goods, artistic gourds and gardening advice. Pots of fall perennials are in bloom, tomatoes come in grape, pear and cherry varieties, bundles of Japanese Lanterns look ready for Halloween. With about 70 booths each Sunday seems to be a little different, the quality and selection will make you want to visit often. With only a few weeks left in the season, check it out soon! Time to go, our tour at Cranbrook begins soon.

In 1887 George G Booth married Ellen Warren Scripps in Detroit; he was the publisher of the Evening News Association and later co-founder of Booth Newspapers, she was the daughter and later heiress to her father James E Scripps, founder of the Detroit News. The exceptionally wealthy couple lived in a magnificent home on Trumbull in Detroit-now the site of Scripps Park, in 1904 they purchased land in Bloomfield Hills and hired Albert Kahn (who else) to build them a summer home, it was called Cranbrook House. In 1908, after the death of James Scripps, the Booth’s made Cranbrook their full-time residence. In 1922 these most generous philanthropists (the Booth’s were also benefactors of the DIA) believed their estate should serve a public purpose, they called on Eliel Saarinen to help complete a master plan and the building of six new institutions began. Booth was an avid student of the Arts and Crafts movement, along with Saarinen he worked closely with sculptor Carl Milles; what they fostered is now a 319 acre campus consisting of the Brookside School for Children, Christ Church Cranbrook, Cranbrook School for Boys, Cranbrook Academy of Art, Cranbrook Institute of Science and the Kingswood School for Girls. The men worked together for decades designing, shaping, forging an enchanted center for learning, thinking and creating. This National Historic Landmark features the works of Eliel Saarinen, Albert Kahn, Steven Holl, Carl Milles, Marshall Fredericks, Peter Rose, Tod Willaims and Billie Tsien. A center of education, science and art, it serves students from Pre K to Graduate students, the Booths deeded their home, contents and surrounding property to the Cranbrook Foundation in 1944 and continued living on the premises until their deaths. Today we are doing a walking tour,The Cranbrook Vision: Architecture, Landscape and Sculpture.

We meet our guide inside the Cranbrook Art Museum, designed by Eliel Saarinen and built in 1942 it is a wonderful example of Mid Century Modern architecture. It is only the two of us on the 1:00 tour, we begin just outside the museum; to one side is the well-known Orpheus Fountain completed in 1937 by Carl Milles, to the other the Triton Pools; a long pool made up of a series of three tiered basins designed by Saarinen and bronze Triton sculptures by Milles, the sight is breathtaking. The entire campus was designed on an axis, standing in this location our eyes are treated to panoramic views leading through arches, past sculptures ending at thoughtfully placed structures; every tree, every walkway was planned. Walking towards Lone Pine Rd we stop and gaze at the Triton Pools, the Nichols Gate (Saarinen 1941) parallels the narrow roadway, a delicate design in wrought iron flanked by Milles sitting boars. Cranbrook is beautiful year-long but there’s something special about visiting in the fall, the students have moved in, the grounds are buzzing with activity, the scenery is outstanding. As we walk towards the dining hall we pass Milles Sunglitter sculpture and his Siren with Fishes fountain, I simply have to stop and look at each piece. We encounter walkways of patterned brick, walls with stone accent pieces, and arched passageways, all embellished with amazing detail, many with an Art Deco flair. It’s as if we’ve been transported to a different place and time, as close to Europe as you’re going to get in the Midwest.

Our guide is filled with interesting stories and information, once we step inside the dining hall her voice falls on deaf ears as we take in this extraordinary room. Designed by Saarinen, the rectangular dining room looks like it’s straight out of Harry Potter; barrel-vaulted ceiling, long, narrow leaded glass windows allow sunlight to flood the room-no two are alike, original tables and chairs still serve the students well, the parquet floor gleams in this light. Indoor lighting consists of 2 rows of unique fixtures resembling inverted glass shades that dangle from long chains, they are elegant and again create a bit of an Art Deco feel, a large fireplace anchors one wall. Back outdoors we study the building, everything here is a work of art; doors, windows, brickwork, it seems we are never far from the sound of water splashing in a fountain or a marvelous Milles sculpture. Buildings and spaces were created by architects, artists and gardeners, creating areas of beauty, respite. We are now in the quadrangle, an expanse of green grass softens the hardscape, architectural elements include copper gutters, carved wood doors, bronze sculptures, archways and the Quadrangle fountain, it is all so picturesque.

Our walk leads us to the Williams Natatorium, built in 1999, designed by Tod Williams and Billie Tsien, this 20,000 sq ft building is spectacular. Housing an eight-lane swimming pool, it feels as if you are swimming outdoors; a deep blue ceiling opens to the elements through skylights, outside the large windows, trees and plantings give the impression of seclusion. The building received an award in 2001 from the AIA. Used for competitive and recreational swimming, it appears to be popular. Continuing through campus the pergola has recently been restored, great wrought iron pieces innocently attract our attention, a concrete column looks as if it is tufted, we learn the school is still made up of 2 single-sex campuses. Back to the Art Museum, stopping inside we wander around the new Modernism exhibit, we are so in our element here. Great displays of furniture, textiles, photos, blue prints and renderings make us ohh and aahhh, in the very back a room is set up where you can actually sit in an Eames chair or at a Saarinen table, pretty cool! The permanent collection contains pieces by Charles and Ray Eames, Harry Bertoia and Maija Grotell. The Academy of Art, founded by the Booth’s in 1932, is one of the nations leading graduate schools of architecture, art and design, is also found in this building. George and Ellen’s desire to create a place of learning, meaning and beauty was the catalyst for Cranbrook, their dream lives on today.

Lunch anyone? The Griffin Claw Brewing Company opened not long ago to great fanfare in Birmingham. Owned by one of the families who has ownership in Big Rock Chophouse just down S Eton St, it is one of the top 10 largest breweries in Michigan. It is another gorgeous day, the roll-up doors are fully opened, folks are evenly distributed throughout the patio, dining and bar area, the Lions are on TV. Taking a high-top table near the bar I first read over the beer menu, they have 12 beers on tap including seasonal and specialty beers. After a series of questions and answers with our server I choose the Bourbon Imperial Stout, Kris orders one of their sour beers with a splash of homemade raspberry syrup, yum. The casual menu features high quality ingredients in a selection of starters and local favorites. The 12,000 sq ft facility is dedicated mostly to the brewery, Dan Rogers is their world-class brewmaster and is no stranger to winning top awards for his creations. My beer is fantastic, luckily our food arrives before I finish it off. The Caesar salad is excellent, crisp lettuce, great dressing. The Claw Burger is made from chopped brisket, this one is a double decker, very flavorful and cooked just the way we like it, the seasoned fries are tasty too. My beer was outstanding, service was excellent, the food delicious, to top it off, the Lions won!

Tags: Architecture, Birmingham MI, Craft Beer, Cranbrook, Detroit Tours, Farmers Markets, Fredericks, Griffin Claw, Kahn, Milles, Saarinen, Travel

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Categories Drink, Eat, Visit

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