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Along The St. Clair…..

We are driving up M-29 to the city of Algonac, the water speed capital of the nation. You may not know this but Algonac is the birthplace of America’s supremacy in powerboat racing. The city played a leading role in shipbuilding; from sailing cargo ships to large pleasure-craft, racing boats and landing craft, including the craft used in the Normandy landing. This is where Chris-Craft was born; in 1927 Chris-Craft was recognized as the world’s largest builder of mahogany-constructed power boats. Between 1921-1932 Christopher Smith (Chris-Craft) and Garfield Wood built 10 Miss America’s in Algonac. Gar Wood established the world water speed record of 124.91 miles per hour in 1932 in the Miss America X.

Just last summer the Algonac-Clay Historical Society opened a Maritime Museum right on St Clair River Drive in a building donated by Fifth-Third Bank, let’s have a look. The 8,300 sq ft space is loaded with nautically themed displays; several boats are set atop water-like flooring, easels display photos, brochures and newspaper clippings, walls are covered in framed boat designs, photographs and flags. Placards tell the stories of the boats; Winning Ticket was won in a local raffle in 1949–check out the vintage Vernor’s cooler. The Aqua Lady is a cool 19 ft Sports Express Cruiser made by Chris-Craft in 1958 as a kit boat. The inside looks surprisingly roomy; a 2-burner stove, storage and banquettes surrounding a table, pretty cozy! Last Gar is a gorgeous wooden boat with an interesting tale to go with it. Outboard motors, racing boats and a showcase filled with trophies are at our disposal, I learned that Gar Wood won the coveted Harmsworth Trophy 8 times.

On display is a boat dashboard; covered in gauges, shifters, controls and a steering wheel, visitors take a turns being captain. Further on we find another Chris-Craft Kit Boat, this one built by the Algonac High School shop class, next to it is a boat from 1909, both look brand new! There are model ships, a workbench with tools, more literature and facts on Chris-Craft manufacturing. Engines and replacement parts give us insight on what we cannot see ordinarily, it’s fascinating to be able to see the boats up close, there’s so much detail.

Outside, we make our way to the riverfront, the 1800 ft long boardwalk offers benches that overlook the lovely blue water. We sit and watch as the City of Algonac ferry transports cars across the St. Clair River to Canada and Walpole Island; pleasure boats zip across the water under the afternoon sun. Time to head north. Back on M-29 we pass the house that Gar Wood once lived in; I like being able to connect the past to the present.

We are having lunch waterside at Anita’s Riverfront Grille in Marine City. The patio is host to picnic tables with umbrellas that hug a view of the river, colorful flowers and vines topple over the sides of planters, live music is provided by a singer playing guitar. We sip on cold drinks as freighters float downriver, swimsuit-clad boaters skip over the water’s surface in speedboats, smaller boats take a more casual approach, checking out the shoreline as they pass. Our Combo Platter arrives, we waste no time digging in. The wet burrito has a chunky sauce with beans, very tasty, The chicken enchilada and soft taco disappear quickly as does the rice and beans.

Today we are visiting the Mariner, a former movie palace built in 1927. The current owner completely restored the building which is now home to the RMS Titanic exhibit and multi-use venue that houses fine models, historical items, antiques and art. A new period marquee welcomes visitors, a 1917 popcorn machine and peanut roaster reside in the lobby area, 46 original 1930’s style mohair theater seats have been installed along with antique light fixtures. The place is pretty amazing. We begin our visit in the galleries; each one displays the finest quality models of automobiles, ships, aircraft and locomotives, the detail is unbelievable. America-themed posters hang on the walls, shelves are lined with books, there’s a jukebox, a transparent clock tower with a bell and a cuckoo clock. Case to case we study miniature war ships, farm equipment, engines and machinery, all are available for purchase.

The main attraction, of course, is the exhibit: Titanic – The Building Of An Icon. First a quick review: The Titanic was built at the Harland and Wolff shipyard in Belfast, it was the largest passenger steamship in the world at the time. On April 14, 1912 the Titanic struck an iceberg, broke into 2 pieces and sank in 2 hours and 40 minutes. In 1995 the builders of the Titanic approached Fine Art Models (of Marine City) to build the “builders model” of the Titanic. “One very important fact surrounding this model is that by agreement with Harland and Wolff, this model would never be displayed with the artifacts brought up from the Titanic gravesite. Furthermore, the exhibit of this model would never be seen as an effort to profit from this tragic event.” The model has traveled to museums and charitable events across the United States, raising over $5 million to date for non-profits and charitable organizations.

The 18 ft, 1500 lb Titanic model is housed in a glass case, it is the centerpiece of the gallery. We walk around looking at actual photos of the interior and exterior of the ship, reading placards, getting our fill of information before really examining the ship. Completed in 2002, it took 7 years to build the model; artisans worked directly with the original builders, using original drawings. The decking is real wood, so is the deck furniture, the entire superstructure is constructed of brass, 3,376,000 rivets (yes, that’s 3 MILLION) are all placed in their correct location, it boggles the mind. Looking at the model it’s easy to imagine the excitement the passengers must have felt boarding this remarkable vessel, I can almost picture well-dressed couples, strolling arm-in-arm on deck. The story of the Titanic has captured the attention of people all over the world for decades, what an incredible opportunity this is to see the legendary ship (in miniature, of course) up close, to take it in, knowing its ultimate fate.

Tags: Algonac, Chris-Craft, Explore, Field Trip, Gar Wood, M-29, Marine City, Mariner, Maritime Heritage, Pure Michigan, St Clair River, Titanic, Travel

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Categories Road Trips, Visit

MARSHALL: Cool Old Stuff !

24 Dec

We are navigating west across the mitten to the charming hamlet of Marshall. Home of the nation’s largest National Historic Landmark Districts, in the Small Urban category, over 850 buildings are included in the landmark; the city has been referred to as “a virtual textbook of 19th century American architecture”, the heart of the Midwest’s “Prettiest Painted Places” and one of America’s “Dozen Distinctive Destinations”, that’s quite a reputation. Money to build such enviable structures came as a result of the Michigan Central Railroad, Patent Medicines Industry and agriculture; did you know Marshall lost out to Lansing as Michigan’s state capital by 1 vote? We have tickets for the 35th Annual Candlelight Walk, there’s plenty of time to explore before then.

We park on W Michigan Ave, the streetscape is straight out of the 19th Century; buildings are constructed of brick and stone, each one distinct, wires strung from one side of the street to the other support miniature lights and decorative garlands, wreaths hang from light posts; it could be a scene in a Hallmark Christmas movie! At one time 18 general stores lined the main street, 16 of them served liquor by the glass, seems like a good idea to me….. Strolling down Michigan Ave we duck into The Mole Hole, Scott Smith is playing the Barton Theatre Organ, Christmas melodies fill the air, the gift shop is brimming with holiday decorations. Winter villages in showcases resemble Marshall itself, trees are bejeweled with ornaments and lights, snowflakes, candy canes and Santas fill shelves. Shoppers gather around the organ, it’s fascinating to watch the organist at work; hands fly across the keys, feet pump pedals, resulting in the one of a kind sound that can only come from a pipe organ. A glass pane in the wall allows us to watch the pipes at work.

Down the street an old Rexall Drug Store sign piques our interest, a historical plaque informs us that Hemmingsen Rexall Drug Store was founded in 1855 and has provided more than 100 years of continuous service. At another pretty storefront belonging to a dentist, two giant molars are mounted to the facade, we walk into the tiled exterior foyer to look at the old-fashioned dental tools and accessories on display in large windows—my teeth hurt just looking at the stuff! At a little antiques shop, groupings are arranged by color, it’s very eye-catching. Items span the decades from the old metal toy trucks and tractors to the late 70’s, fun! Serendipity is just the kind of boutique a group of girlfriends would love to shop; gourmet food, original artwork, tea accessories, serving pieces, decorative items, my friends and I could easily fill a few shopping bags.

Close by, a trio of blue bar stools are attracting attention in the front window of Amazing Grace, the kind of funky vintage shop Kris and I enjoy investigating. Mannequins are dressed up in interesting attire; clothing, furniture, lighting, accessories, figurines and loads of other unique items are for sale. Up on the second floor we get an up-close look at the stunning tin ceiling, painted white, for some reason it reminds me of a wedding cake. Kitchen items, souvenir pennants, quirky hats, rotary telephones and even a few parasols make this an awesome place to look around. The shopping district enjoys a nice variety of businesses and museums all housed in buildings more than 100 years old, there are 45 historical markers and plaques in the city, preservation has always been a priority in Marshall.

On the sidewalk ahead a sign advertises the American Museum of Magic, it’s the largest magic museum in the United States open to the public, who knew? The Victorian-style building is gorgeous, inside we pay the $5 admission and begin to wander around; I, like most folks, have always been fascinated by magic, Houdini, Thurston, Blackstone and Henning are all familiar names. From the famous to the obscure, the museum celebrates magicians and their magic. Pale yellow walls are plastered with heralds, hand bills, window cards and show bills. Devices, apparatus, photos and artifacts cram display cabinets and fill floor space. Probably the most popular is Houdini’s “Milk Can” and “Overboard Box”, amazing! Clare Cummings, who was “Milky the Twin Pines Magic Clown” donated most of his magic tricks to this museum as did Blackstone who was from Michigan. We move slowly from one area to another, there’s much to read and look at; crates, trunks, cabinets and costumes used in illusions, they even have one of those long wooden boxes where the magician saws the beautiful assistant in half, it’s so cool to see them up close. We climb the stairs and follow the narrow hall into another exhibit area, there’s a performance space with seating, more cases filled with memorabilia, masks, souvenirs and everyday products that came with mail-in offers for magic tricks, hey, they have Pen & Teller’s suits. Harry Blackstone’s mummy case rests on the floor, a placard explains how the trick worked. The collection does a splendid job introducing us to magicians, illusionist, hypnotists, their tricks, their stories and entertains us as well.

Marshall is also known as the home of Schulers Restaurant & Pub, a century-old, family owned eatery in a former a hotel, it’s one of those must-go-to places. We step inside the historic building and find it bustling with people; it’s a Saturday in December, this is the perfect gathering place to meet friends and family. A small section is devoted to retail sales of Schuler’s own baked goods and pantry items from other Michigan businesses. We are led to the dining room, handed menus and the infamous cheese and crackers are left on the table. I think it was a tie between Kris and I as to who got to the crackers first! As we nibble we take in the quaint room; checkered cloths cover tables, Poinsettia are placed throughout, a fire roars in the large stone fireplace, historical murals and photographs cover the walls. Throughout the space quotes like “It matters not how a man dies, but how he lives”, “Music is the universal language of mankind” and other famous sayings are painted on the wooden beams; some are witty, others, thought-provoking, it’s wonderful! The fourth generation of Schuler’s currently run the business that turned 100 in 2009, that’s an accomplishment.

Just as we finish the salad our veggie burger arrives; the patty is made from quinoa, black bean, oats and cilantro, we asked for ours on the homemade focaccia, topped with horseradish mayo, guacamole, onion straws, tomato and fresh greens, it’s outstanding! Truly delicious, it could be one of the best veggie burgers we’ve ever had. Our server asks us if we’d like to see the dessert menu, what the heck. We find two items particularly appealing, ask the server her opinion, then give in and order the Signature Pecan Ball. She’s back in a flash with a large ball of vanilla bean ice cream rolled in roasted sweet pecans, drenched in hot fudge (and on her suggestion) hot caramel. I am taking a slight pause here as I revel in the memory of the awesomeness…………..

We’re just going to sit back and relax for a while before moving on to our next activity. In the words of Bernie Wolf, “Take time to play–it is the secret of perpetual youth”.

Tags: American Museum of Magic, Barton Theatre Organ, Explore, Historic home tour, Historic Marshall MI, Pure Michigan, Schuler's, Travel

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Categories Visit

Grand Ledge: Fall Fun!

26 Nov

Once upon a time, in the sleepy little village of Grand Ledge MI, a man by the name of John Burtch had an idea; he built a one-story plank hotel, launched the steamer Dolly Varden and invited the public to discover the beauty and wonder of seven little islands residing in the Grand River; the Seven Island Resort was born. In 1877 Mr Hewings purchased the resort and launched the steamer Gertie, gone was the little hotel, replaced by the more elegant Island House Hotel, complete with a ballroom on the second floor. In addition, amenities such as rowboats, bath houses, hammocks, swings and croquet grounds were added; there was even a mineral spring on one of the islands. In 1886 Julian Mudge took possession of the resort, money was spent freely on a new dam, an addition to the Island House hotel, a causeway was built to join Second and Third island. Mr Mudge built a 3-story pagoda-like tower called the Roundhouse, the first roller coaster in Michigan was constructed over the water, starting at Second island and finishing at Third. Second island was the centerpiece of activity with the hotel, picnic area and fountain, while Third was home to the casino which hosted first run musicals and Vaudeville shows.

Yes folks, thousands of tourists came by train to this tiny resort town; side-wheel riverboats steamed up and down the river, it was the most popular resort in all of lower Michigan. In 1888 Grand Ledge became the second city, after Lansing, in MI to get electric lights. Eventually the resort became less popular, people now owned cars and could drive to other destinations. In the 1930’s the property was sold to the city, the hotel continued to be used as a community building for another 20 years, sadly none of the original buildings exist today…. In 1976, with the addition of a new gazebo, the island began to be used for festivals and activities such as the annual Color Cruise and Island Festival. Which brings us to today.

It is the second full weekend in October, the sky a powder blue umbrella overhead, the sun warms our faces as we walk from Main Street to the Island. We purchase tickets, walk across the wooden bridge and find ourselves surrounded by activity. On the right a group of llamas seem to be people-watching from their fenced in area, I stop and say hello, music plays as a group of ladies tap dance in front of the gazebo, a table of cupcakes and baked goods is tempting. An asphalt path straddles the island from one end to the other, we pause at the tip and drink in the panoramic view; nature has begun painting leaves of hardwood trees in red, yellow, orange and gold, the Grand Princess riverboat floats past on the calm Grand River. We take our time walking from the far end, a group re-enacts pioneer days; dressed in period clothing they are cooking over an open fire. A pile of animal skins and a turtle shell rest on a table, examples of items such as clothing and pouches made from the skins lay nearby. Dried fruits, nuts, peas and grains are some of the foods pioneers depended on for survival. The petting zoo is popular this morning, kids of all ages are holding bunnies, petting goats and sheep. A blacksmith invites visitors to watch as he demonstrates how to make a nail, a woman at a loom weaves fleece into yarn, an antique fire truck is on display. Further up locals have set up booths selling arts and crafts, I watch as a woman hand weaves a basket, one artist carves animal faces into walking sticks, a different blacksmith has utensils, hammers and hooks for sale, a man and woman are performing a folk song now at the gazebo.

The Grand Princess is getting ready for her next excursion, we purchase tickets and climb aboard, there are two rail-side seats available on the second level, which we gladly claim. A guide will narrate as we navigate the narrow river, she begins with some History; Grand Ledge was named after the river itself, sandstone ledges line the riverbanks are composed of Eaton sandstone and quartzite that was deposited 250 million years ago; these ledges are geologically significant in lower MI. Above the trees we see the bright blue water tower, pedestrians enjoy a river side stroll, up ahead an ancient-looking railroad bridge crosses the river, it is still used today, trees reflect on the river, the view is picturesque. Private homes are built to fit the landscape, wooden stairways are like switchbacks leading down to the water, Coho salmon pass through twice a year. The boat stops at Fitzgerald Park, some of the passengers will get off here and walk back to the festivities, the rest of us stay aboard and enjoy the peacefulness and gorgeous scenery the boat affords us.

Back on land, it is lunchtime, we passed a rustic looking place in town earlier, so that’s where we’re headed. The Log Jam Inn has one of those old-fashioned signs hanging out front that screams Americana, the building resembles a log cabin both inside and out. The restaurant is doing a brisk business today, thanks to the festival. We are seated in a booth near the door, Kris looks at the menu, I look around. I notice a charming stone fireplace, a Spartans banner hangs nearby (we are only 10 miles west of Lansing), walls are wood panels, each table is adorned with a cute little lamp, shades look like they are made of birch, ours is a canoe that holds the S & P. Our meal arrives, the turkey sandwich is served hamburger-style on a bun, piled high and topped with lettuce, tomato and a side of honey mustard it is satisfying, the portion of fries is generous, good thing because they are excellent.

Time to get a closer look at the ledges; we drive over to Front Street and park in the lot for Oak Park, here climbers are allowed to scale the 60 ft high ledges. We follow the path down to the river’s edge, the water is on our right, towering ledges on our left, fallen leaves are scattered about. The sandstone quartz ledges are golden in color some of the edges are dark, tree roots resemble hands, their fingers tightly gripping the rock, here and there a trail of crystal clear water springs from the rock, making its way to the river. In some places you can see the layers of sandstone, to me it looks like the inside of a Butterfinger, in one spot the rock has worn away forming an overhang above the path, the sun dances off the river creating a reflections upon the rock face. We come across a group of climbers securing their ropes getting ready for their ascent, two canoes are carried by the current down river. The scenery is stunning here; the autumn leaves of the trees, the golden sandstone are mirrored on the surface of the water. Large rock pieces lay broken in piles, we climb over and follow the path to its end. Once again we are in the park, we pause at the look-out one last time before heading home.