Tag Archives: Detroit Blog

ROCHESTER: Meadowbrook Hall

31 Mar

Meadowbrook Hall 063 (1)

It had been a couple of years since our last visit to Meadowbrook Hall in Rochester MI.  One of this country’s finest examples of Tudor Revival architecture it should be on your Must Do list. Before I talk about the home itself I need to lay a little groundwork, it all begins with the Dodge Brothers……..

Meadowbrook Hall 165 (1)

Meadowbrook Hall 002 (1)Meadowbrook Hall 003

John and Horace Dodge were automotive pioneers who shaped Detroit’s early automotive industry. They went from working in local machine shops, to manufacturing Evans and Dodge bicycles to opening their own machine shop in 1901. Interestingly enough (at least to me it is) they began producing stove parts (remember at one time Detroit was the Stove Capital of the US), then moved on to parts for the auto industry. Their first major customer was Ransom E Olds, in 1902 Henry Ford hired them to produce everything except the body, wheels and tires for his new vehicle. At that time Ford was short on cash, he gave the brothers 50 shares of stock in the new Ford Motor Company as payment, making them 10% shareholders in the company. In 1913 John Dodge decided not to renew their exclusive contract with Ford, John stepped down as President of the company and the brothers began the process of building their own “Dodge” vehicle. In November 1914 the first Dodge rolled of the line in Hamtramck. John was a widower and father when Matilda Rausch, secretary for the Dodge brothers, caught his eye, the two were married in 1907, the marriage produced three children. In 1920 John died of influenza, leaving Matilda a (unbelievably rich) widow at age 37, at that time he was worth in excess of $100 million dollars. 1925 was a big year for Matilda, she married Alfred Wilson and she and Anna Dodge sold their holdings in Dodge Motor Company for $146 million dollars, making Matilda one of the wealthiest women in the world.

Meadowbrook Hall 158

Meadowbrook Hall 096 (1)

Meadowbrook Hall 008Meadowbrook Hall 161

Meadowbrook Hall 121 (1)

John and Matilda had purchased a farm estate in Rochester MI years earlier as a weekend retreat, it consisted of 1500 acres and several residences. This is where Matilda and Alfred would build their family home. William Kapp (Music Hall, Players Clubhouse) of Smith, Hinchman and Grylls was hired to design the house, Matilda requested the home be large enough to entertain 250 people and the dining room be able to hold 40 people for dinner. What she got was a magnificent, 88,000 sq ft castle, (that’s right, 88 thousand square feet) reminiscent of an English country manor home. It was built between 1926 and 1929 for a cost of $4 million dollars. Matilda insisted that all materials should be American as well as the workers. The home is filled with elaborately carved wood, stone, ornate plaster, even the details have details, 27 fireplaces, 39 chimneys and lots of Tiffany glass; she was the largest purchaser of Tiffany in the country. Ok, now we can go in…..

Meadowbrook Hall 007 (1)Meadowbrook Hall 013 (1)

Meadowbrook Hall 027 (1)

Meadowbrook Hall 035

We enter the home and find ourselves in the expansive foyer, a fire burns bright in the massive fireplace, a bench pulled close for those who wish to warm themselves, a pair of candelabra torchieres flank the fireplace.  The tour begins on the lower level of the home, the entertainment floor, so to speak. Ralph, our guide begins by telling us a bit of family history and how the house came to be. We move into the Ballroom, the only 2-story room in the house, to me it looks straight out of a castle; gorgeous timber ceiling, stone arches, tapestries, light fixtures of wrought iron and glass, almost medieval. The Wilson’s spared no expense when they threw a party, Tommy Dorsey and his orchestra played here with a then unknown singer named Frank Sinatra. Proceeding through the room we find ourselves in the Game Room; this is where the men would go to smoke, drink, play cards, that sort of thing. The ceiling is vaulted, windows are leaded glass, the slate floor gleams, beautiful rugs and leather couches make the room feel comfortable. As with every other room in the house it is finely detailed, trim work surrounding the door is carved with shapes of chess pieces, card suits and the like, my favorite detail? The miniature pool table that serves as a door handle!

Meadowbrook Hall 055 (1)

Meadowbrook Hall 046 (1)Meadowbrook Hall 048 (1)

Meadowbrook Hall 044 (1)

Back on the main floor we find ourselves in the Christopher Wren Dining Room; named after the English architect for the design style. Walls are paneled in walnut, the ceiling, well, it is absolutely stunning. I have never seen another one like it, the work of Corrado Parducci, the detail is magnificent, thick plaster designs hang heavy from above; corn and wheat so detailed you can see the grains, the cherubs have eyelashes, leaves and flowers wrap the perimeter. An amazing garland of fruit, flowers and game birds hang above the fireplace, two large chandeliers anchor the room. Family photos are found throughout the house, portraits of Matilda and Alfred hang prominently. Through a narrow doorway is the Pagoda Room, this is where the children would take their meals; walls are hand-painted, lots of windows let in the natural light, an Asian-style chandelier hangs above, it’s wonderful. Down the hall we enter Alfred’s study, this is the only room in the house that does not feature American wood, being a lumber baron, he chose English Burled Oak to cover the walls. Rectangular panels are carved with scenes representing Alfred’s life from his days in Indiana through college and beyond. A fireplace makes the room cozy, the detail in the door is impressive, and what kind of door handle does Alfred have? A log of course.

Meadowbrook Hall 042 (1)

Meadowbrook Hall 070 (1)Meadowbrook Hall 068 (1)

Meadowbrook Hall 073

As we walk toward Matilda’s office a window offers us a glimpse of the ballroom below, what a sight! The office is lit by a Waterford Crystal chandelier, a fireplace and desk take up residence in the space, alcoves recessed into the paneled walls hold decorative pieces. The room looks quite comfortable, it is clear Matilda had a good eye and knew what she wanted. The living room is the largest room in the house, at 1340 sq ft it still manages to feel welcoming and warm. The furniture is Chinese and looks perfectly at home in the room, I love the ceiling, it is bowed to prevent cracking, the plaster pattern is lovely. At the far end of the room is another huge fireplace, behind it is a splendid sunroom; lots of windows, the ceiling is Wormy Chestnut, pretty furniture, I can see myself reading a nice thick book in this room. At the opposite end of the room a grand piano sits off to a corner, organ pipes are concealed in the walls, open grates our only clue to what lies behind the wall. A narrow hall leads us past the original organ, the floor is wide plank, the organ is both a player organ and can be played by hand; paper organ rolls are kept in boxes behind glass doors. A charming set of three stone windows catch my eye as we pass heading into the library. One of the (many) amazing things about this house is that the furnishings are all original, the books actually belonged to Alfred and Matilda, the photos are real family photos, their dishes and personal belongings are all here for us to see! 

Meadowbrook Hall 074 (1)

Meadowbrook Hall 083 (1)Meadowbrook Hall 093 (1)

Meadowbrook Hall 092 (1)

Our group climbs the grand staircase to the Great Hall, great is an understatement. At the top of the staircase I turn around to face the fabulous stained glass windows, from there I look up at the plaster barrel ceiling intensely covered in a brocade-like pattern, wow! A table is set as an example of how the Wilson’s entertained. To the right down a hall is the wing where the Dodge children’s bedrooms are located, bathrooms are Rookwood Tile from Cincinnati, guest rooms allowed for them to have friends stay over. The opposite wing belonged to Matilda and Alfred, each had their own room, Alfred’s masculine as expected, and for the lady of the house, French and feminine. Rose-colored silk wallpaper covers the walls, her bed rests upon a low pedestal, it is exquisite, if I heard correctly, she has 14 closets…..Also located in this wing are the bedrooms of the Wilson’s two adopted children Barbara and Richard, along with the nanny’s room. Both Barbara and Richard are still alive, Meadowbrook Hall turns 85 this year, a celebration is planned and the children are hoping to attend.

Meadowbrook Hall 113

Meadowbrook Hall 108 (1)Meadowbrook Hall 123 (1)

Meadowbrook Hall 103 (1)

Matilda was very active in civic affairs and the arts, generous with her time and fortune, she built the Wilson Theatre in Detroit, now known as Music Hall. In 1957 Matilda and Alfred donated their entire 1500 acre estate, their collections and an additional $2 million dollars to found Michigan State University-Oakland, renamed Oakland University in 1963. The university opened in September 1959, 570 students enrolled that year. Upon graduation Matilda presented each student with a diamond ring. The Wilson’s continued to live at the estate until their deaths, Alfred in 1962 and Matilda in 1967, today, their legacy lives on. It’s nearly impossible to capture the beauty of this home in pictures, descriptions cannot do it justice, you’ll just have to see for yourself.

Meadowbrook Hall 128

Meadowbrook Hall 131 (1)

Meadowbrook Hall 135

Meadowbrook Hall 139 (1)

The Royal Park Hotel in Rochester seemed like the logical place to have lunch, the boutique hotel which opened in 2004 is also designed in the English Manor House style. The exterior is brick and stone, inside you will find dark wood, rich fabrics, oriental rugs and fireplaces. We take a seat in Elliots Lounge, the menu features casual meals, sandwiches, salads, charcuterie and cheeses. We start off with the specialty sausage board; a grilled chicken and organic apple sausage served with watercress salad and sundried pear and apricot mostarda, yum! Kris digs into the RPH Sliders while I enjoy the Chili Lime Chicken sandwich, everything is well prepared and delicious, service is excellent. When we have finished, we leave the world of the rich and famous and return to reality………bummer.

dodge 172

dodge 168

DETROIT: Hidden Gems

24 Feb

Untitled

Nestled away on Woodward near the Palmer Woods neighborhood is one of Detroit’s hidden gems, La Dolce Vita. Serving superb Italian cuisine, the building goes unnoticed by most passersby, but don’t be fooled, the restaurants excellent reputation keeps the place packed most of the time. We are having an early dinner on Friday evening, I made a reservation in advance. We turn in behind the building and are greeted by a valet, Kris hands him a $5 dollar bill, we head inside as the Jeep is whisked away. The warmth of the building is soothing, the outdoor temperature is hovering at 5 degrees. The host takes us to our table, large chandeliers light the patio-looking room, archways separate the dining area from the bar. Everything on the menu sounds delicious, we make our selections and nibble on fresh-baked bread. Windows overlook the garden area, the snow is piled high, in the summer there isn’t a prettier place in the city to have a meal than in their courtyard. Service is impeccable, our glasses are never empty and empty dishes are cleared quickly. Kris is having the Petto Di Pollo Alla Sorrentina; sauteed chicken breast, roasted eggplant, mozzarella and a veal-demi marinara sauce to die for. Truly outstanding, the chicken is so tender, no knife is needed. I ordered the Gnocchi Alla Bava, being a fan of both pasta and potatoes, I cannot resist. Without a doubt this is the best gnocchi I have ever had; tender pillows of heavenly deliciousness smothered in a six cheese cream sauce, I found myself grinning with every bite. We definitely have to come here more often!

mary 005

mary 009

We have tickets to see the UDM Theatre Company perform Somebody/Nobody by Jane Martin at the Marygrove Theatre; this is the second hidden gem of the evening. In the early 1970’s the U of D Theatre Company and Marygrove consolidated their Fine and Performing Arts departments, they updated the existing theatre by extending the stage to accommodate larger productions. First, let’s talk about the building. Marygrove is an independent, Catholic, Liberal Arts College. The Liberal Arts Building, designed by Oscar D Bohlen, is a soaring Tudor Gothic structure that was built in 1927 of Bedford stone. The building contains classrooms, offices, studios, a library, bookstore, theatre and Sacred Heart Chapel. It is filled with traditional Gothic features such as pointed arches, ribbed vaults, high ceilings, carved decoration, corbels, capitals, tranceried windows…..ah, the beauty of it all!

mary 054 (1)

mary 010mary 042

mary 049

We have time to wander before the play begins; Tavernelle Rose marble runs from floor to ceiling in the main lobby, long arched corridors with gray Missouri marble floors lead us past classrooms. Brass lettering hangs on classroom doors identifying each subject, doorknobs and hardware are detailed, ornate and original as are the light fixtures. The chapel doors are open, we quietly amble in. Chandeliers line each side of the chapel, the ceiling of wood beams brings warmth to the neutral colored space. The altar, inset under another Gothic arch is elaborate, highly detailed, amazing. Candles flicker in glass containers giving the room a sense of peace. On the walk to the theatre we pass hand-carved Carrara marble statues tucked into niches in the wall, there are 8 throughout the building. Patterns repeat throughout the interior in stone, wood, plaster bronze and wrought iron; French fleur-de-lis, Oak leaves, acorns, harp, laurel wreath and the Cross, little has changed in the building over the last 87 years. It smells like school to me, books, paper…. posters are hung on walls, the heels of my shoes make clicking sounds as we walk.

mary 038

mary 036 (1)mary 018 (1)

mary 032 (1)

Inside the theatre we are shown to our seats, renovated in 2002 it radiates simple elegance. Classically styled with a proscenium stage and sprung floor it has everything budding thespians could want; dressing rooms, green room, stage manager room, rehearsal studio and box office. Wood panels are dark, the ceiling a soothing shade of blue, bare light bulbs glow in detailed metal fixtures, all very quaint. The lights are dimmed and the show begins, set in an L A apartment, we immediately meet the lead character Loli; a country girl looking for fame in the big city. Quickly, Sheena appears, a Hollywood starlet grown tired of the nonsense that comes with being a celebrity. Each longing for the other’s life, they form a unique friendship. Along the way we are introduced to an agent named Galaxy, a stalker and cousin Joe Don; the play has really funny moments and some hilarious one-liners. We love coming to this theatre, simple to get to, easy parking and beautiful, intimate surroundings.

mary 027

mary 047

Detroit: Belle Isle Clubbing…..

17 Feb

037

It’s official, on February 10 historic Belle Isle became Michigan’s 102nd State Park. The DNR will now manage the island, the state will work with the Belle Isle Conservancy and the Belle Isle Park Advisory Committee in decision-making and upcoming projects. I find it very exciting! The DNR has already begun removing felled and hazardous trees, a shelter has been re-roofed and several picnic tables refurbished. In the next 6 months we should see restoration and reopening of restrooms, clearing of debris on trails, expansion of picnic areas, new signage and lighting, this is only the beginning….YES!

003

a

068 (1)

Today is Shiver On The River, all of the buildings on the island are open to the public, tours are being given at The Detroit Yacht Club. The DYC is one of the oldest and most prestigious private clubs in North America, located on an 11 acre private island in the Detroit River, the 96,000 sq ft Mediterranean-style building was designed by George Mason (Masonic Temple, Gem Theatre, Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island). The DYC was founded in 1868, this building is their fifth clubhouse, it was dedicated in 1923, the same year the concrete McArthur bridge opened, connecting the island to the city. C’mon let’s have a look!

009

016 (1)

007 (1)

A long red carpet leads us to the front entrance, the building is lovely, custom-made revolving doors lead us to the first floor. We are greeted by our tour guide then head up the staircase with its gorgeous banister in the main lobby. In front of us windows overlook the Detroit River, floral carpet leads in all directions, Pewabic Tile medallions are placed high along the walls, a nautical theme is carried out throughout the building. First stop, the Trophy Room, the ornate fireplace takes center stage here, it was hand-carved in place, up close I spy a boat, anchor and rope among the carvings. Above it a painting maps out the private island’s place in the river. Trophy cases are filled with large silver cups, photos and memorabilia. Plaster walls are textured, common for the time period, wall sconces and chandelier are original. We are led to Peacock Alley, named after Peacock Alley in the Waldorf Astoria where society ladies gathered for tea, this stretch of hallway oozes elegance. The Pewabic tile floor gleams, chandeliers hang by thin chains in a line, golden leaves and roses, they are delicate, feminine, and formerly inhabited Rose Terrace. Paintings line the wall, at one time this area was called the DYC Art Gallery. 

024

029

028

The indoor swimming pool is gorgeous, Olympic size, every square inch is covered in Pewabic Tile. Mary Chase Perry Stratton was a club member and agreed to provide all of the tile when the club was built; she retained control of all design and placement of tile within the building. Huge windows bring the outdoors in, the water sparkles in the light, colored tiles create an illusion of lanes across the floor of the pool. Walls are tiled half way up, a border of rectangular wave tile surrounds the room, individual hand painted tiles add personality; swans, fish and water scenes. The room is warm, chaise lounges linger pool-side, for a moment I forget it is February. 

035036 (1)

043 (1)

077 (1)

The Ballroom is the largest room in the clubhouse, 3-stories high with a spectacular wood beam ceiling, it is enchanting. I feel like I have wandered into a castle in a far-away land; staff members are busy setting up for what could only be a Fairy Tale wedding. The room is expansive; a gentleman sits at the baby grand piano, music quietly fills the air. The fireplace is enormous, it too was carved in place, the sailboat above a reminder of our proximity to the water. Circular chandeliers softly light the room and reflect off the polished wood floor, my mouth is agape as I take it all in, Kris is engrossed in picture-taking. Reluctantly, we move on to the Library, it is just one beautiful room after another, wood-paneled walls, built-in bookshelves and cozy seating areas complete with table lamps invite visitors to curl up with a good book. Passing through the bar area we are told it was originally a porch, a portrait of Gar Wood at age 70 hangs on the wall. The dining room is exquisite; detailed plaster work and terrazzo floors, the room was recently restored. A splendid fountain was discovered behind one of the walls during renovations, today it is out in the open for all to see. Bronze statues rest on tables in the lobby of the dining room, donated by Col. A Victory Seymor MD, he was a club member and surgeon.

053 (1)

059061 (1)

057 (1)

At one time the Board Room and Billiard room were located on the third floor, the space was converted to a meeting room in 1960, the highlight of the room is the doors that open up to the spectator balcony which overlooks the Ballroom. Here we get up close to the ornate, well-crafted, hand-painted beams we saw from the Ballroom floor, they are stunning. Boarding the elevator (added in 1960) we take it down to the first level where locker rooms, fitness center and Binnacle are located. We wander down a long hall, photos of past Commodores in custom frames cover the walls. Flags from other Yacht Clubs where members have visited wrap around the top of the bar, pictures of club history and historical boats hang on the Grill’s walls. FYI: the private island the DYC is built on was man-made…at that time Detroit was in the process of building skyscrapers downtown, the dirt was removed, then taken over to Belle Isle to create the island the clubhouse rests on today. Our tour guide was a former Commodore, he was filled with interesting stories and information that really made the history of the building come alive!

086

092

097

Time to grab some lunch; a fundraiser for the Belle Isle Conservancy called “Hot Soup” is being held at the Flynn Pavilion; Kris drank hot chocolate here when he was a lad, I have never been inside the building, we are curious to check it out. Built in 1949, this single story, stone facade building is often credited to Eero Saarinen, in fact, the actual architect is J Robert F Swanson. A one time partner of Eliel and Eero Saarinen, he left the firm and started Swanson Associates in 1947. His wife Pipsan Saarinen (you got it, daughter and sister of the previously mentioned Eliel and Eero) oversaw the interior designs. Built to provide shelter and amenities for Summer and Winter activities, the building is a wonderful example of Mid Century Modern Design.

109106

105

100

Inside we are awestruck by the knotty pine plank ceiling and beams, the back wall is a grayish-colored stone that surrounds a wood fireplace surround, it’s like we’ve wandered into some cool Modern lodge somewhere up north! Horizontal bands of casement windows line the length of each wall, one side overlooks the Lake Takoma Lagoon, the other the park itself, we are stunned by what good condition everything is in. To the left big pots of soup, trays of Avalon Bread and slices of Dangerously Delicious Pies beckon to us, Stella Cafe is providing the hot chocolate. Each of us has a bowl of vegetarian chili, bread and a white chocolate Macadamia cookie, everything is delicious! What a treat the day has been, there is no end to the amazing things that can be found right here in Detroit.

DETROIT: Behind closed doors…..

18 Nov

docomomo 057

Ever driven by a cool old building and wondered what’s inside?? Us too, today we’ll get a chance to show you a few….It is DoCoMoMo Tour weekend in the United States, coast to coast the whole country is celebrating Mid-Century Modern architecture and design with 50 tours in 40 individual cities. In Michigan we have four tours going on this October weekend, today we are joining the Detroit Art Deco Society for “Modernism Reinvisioned at 1528 and 1520 Woodward” in Detroit. We meet our tour group in front of what was originally known as the Arts League Building, in 1960 The United Foundation renovated the structure, then moved their headquarters into the building; you may remember the massive U/F on the facade. Our guide, Rebecca Savage from DAADS explains the history of the building and that it went from its original classical design to Mid-Century Modern style; ground level exterior walls were finished with tiny blue tiles, the upper floors were covered with a stainless steel grill. The ground floor was once home to the Michigan Consolidated Gas Company, I am told you could come here back in the day to get free light bulbs. Today a bicycle rental station sits in front of the newly renovated building, Dan Gilbert purchased it in 2012, it is now simply called 1528 Woodward, he has wasted no time getting it ready for new tenants, Yay!

docomomo 005

docomomo 012

docomomo 013docomomo 040

Just inside the doors we find ourselves in the lobby, original tiny blue tiles cover the right wall, elevators are stainless steel, the wood around the reception desk remains from the 1960 renovation, a seating area is arranged off to the left, the design complimentary to the existing elements. We take the elevator up to the floor inhabited by Sachse Construction; floors are polished concrete, wood is very light, much of the space is bright white accented by lime green, it looks fantastic! Desks are arranged in an open workspace, I would most certainly be distracted by the outstanding view afforded by the huge Woodward-facing windows. Near the back a giant vintage black and white photo of Detroit is used as wallpaper around and over the elevator door. The next level greets us in bright blue and lime green, walls are covered in designs from Detroit Wallpaper, seating areas sport funky, cool furniture, I would say it’s ‘groovy’, each floor has great city views.

docomomo 028

docomomo 016

docomomo 042

Down a level we are led into a meeting space, original wood designs from the 60’s are still in place as are the great light boxes, my affection for the darker wood of the 60’s continues to grow. We are led down a hall, past what Rebecca calls the Lego wall, picture a wall made of massive white Lego’s and there you have it; it too was part of the 1960 renovation, reproduced during the current resto. We pause outside a door, a small sign to the right says “Sterling Cooper Room”, the door opens and indeed we feel as if we have arrived on the set of Mad Men. The room is amazing; gorgeous wood panels surround the room, the conference table is original, gorgeous, huge. Light fixtures are new versions of the old ‘sputnik’ fixtures popular in that time period. Again you have that marvelous street view. It is nice to see how the current designers have embraced the past and make it work with the present.

docomomo 047

docomomo 036

docomomo 051

Back outside we walk over to 1520 Woodward, built in 1917, it was purchased by Lane Bryant in 1945 and redesigned to the current facade. It was the flagship store for the women’s clothing chain for nearly 40 years. Dan Gilbert purchased the building in 2011, having sat vacant since the 80’s much of the interior had to be gutted. An elevator awaits us in a small attractive lobby area, artwork hangs on the walls, a cool fixture lights the space, a swanky railing lines a down staircase. Currently mobile App developer Detroit Labs occupies the top two floors, today they are hosting an event so we will not be able to see their space, bummer… Instead we roam around an empty floor, a work-in-progress, so to speak. The space is wide open, you can see new plumbing and mechanicals, huge steel beams run the length of the room. On one floor old “sale” signs are still visible on some of the walls, rafters are exposed, rusty steel beams act as support columns. These first four floors are just awaiting tenants. Our tour ends here, but our adventure continues.

docomomo 058docomomo 085

docomomo 068

docomomo 078

We could use a little pick me up, Chickpea in the D has taken over the tiny space at 2 John R formerly occupied by Good Girls Go To Paris Crepes. Serving gourmet hummus, sandwiches, soups and smoothies, it’s a great place to grab a quick lunch or snack. As we wait for our Sunny Day smoothie made from Strawberries, bananas, pineapple juice and yogurt, we try samples of the pumpkin and the asparagus hummus, both were quite good. 

docomomo 223

docomomo 219

docomomo 216

By the time we arrive at Detroit Vegan Soul on Agnes St our smoothie is gone and we are ready for lunch. Co-owners Erika and Kirsten started out as a meal delivery and catering company before recently opening the restaurant. The cozy little space is lovely; today sunshine pours in through the large front windows, the room is painted in earth tones of green, rust and brown, the right wall holds a series of street sign photos. The menu consists of “veganized” comfort foods; Mac-n-Cheese, collard greens, black-eyed peas, yams, they even serve catfish tofu. We sip on house made Hibiscus Punch as we wait for our food. The sesame kale salad is piled high in a shallow bowl; sun-dried tomatoes, sesame seeds and a homemade sesame dressing that is absolutely delicious. The DVS Burger is a veggie millet burger patty, cucumber, lettuce, tomato, red onion, pesto aioli served on a whole grain bun, it is hands-down the best vegetarian burger Kris and I have ever had. Served with a side of cole slaw and yam fries the combination made for a tasty and satisfying lunch!

docomomo 096docomomo 124

docomomo 155

docomomo 136

We are driving over to the Milwaukee Junction area, named for the 1858 intersection of the Detroit & Milwaukee and Chicago, Detroit & Canada Grand Trunk Junction railroads, it became the automobile industry’s central location for manufacturing in Detroit. By 1910 Ford and Everitt-Metzger-Flanders were the world’s largest automakers, other nearby plants included Anderson Electric, Brush, Cadillac, Dodge, Hupp, Packard and Regal; their suppliers chose locations in the area, creating a hub of auto body and stamping plants. A host of machine shops producing tools, dies, jigs and fixtures for the stamping companies were also found here. While today some stamping operations remain here what we mostly find are unoccupied American industrial buildings from the late 19th century through the first half of the 20th century; buildings range from basic frame and brick to Art Moderne and Romanesque Revival designed by notable names such as Charles Agree, Smith, Hinchman & Grylls and you guessed it, Albert Kahn. There has been a movement over the last decade to convert these obsolete structures into artist studios, such as the Russell Industrial Center, and our next stop the Pioneer Building.

docomomo 112

docomomo 164docomomo 129

docomomo 092

Located at 2679 E Grand Blvd the Pioneer Building began life in 1908 as the Trippense Manufacturing company, producing stamped metal planetariums and tellurions, in the 1920’s the company also produced open auto bodies for Ford, Chrysler and Rickenbacker. Somewhere along the way the building was renamed The Pioneer after the furniture company that once occupied it, the name has stuck ever since. Today this sturdy old structure has been divided into studios rented by artists from all over the metro Detroit area. Generally not open to the public, today is a special occasion, it is the annual open house, all are welcome. The atmosphere is festive, crowds of people fill hallways and individual studios, one room is dedicated to food, drinks and music, everyone seems to partake. We traverse the art lined hallways stopping at each studio, all mediums are represented; oil, watercolors, ceramics, photography, sculpture-you get the idea. I can barely drag myself from the studio of Teresa Petersen, her pieces are eclectic and humorous; collages, sculpture and even trading cards, each telling a story that is sure to make you laugh…a lot. In the main hall a kids area is set up, youngsters don oversized shirts and try out their painting skills. One studio features courtroom sketches from the Kilpatrick trial, the likeness and emotions captured on paper are amazing. One artist makes sculpture from found objects, it is fun to try to identify the components of a piece. 

docomomo 134

docomomo 102

docomomo 110

As we are about to exit the building I notice a small square of paper that says: “You’re invited to an Exclusive first look: The Historic Art Stove Building”, just around the corner at 1401 E Milwaukee, we’re on our way. We park on the grassy lot, without hesitation we enter this long vacant century-old building, it even smells old. New owners have just recently taken possession, they are on site to chat with visitors. The building was constructed in 1907, this ornate brick structure was the showroom for Art Stove’s production of the Laurel brand of cast iron stoves, ranges and furnaces; it was one of five major stove companies in Detroit, before becoming the Motor City, Detroit was known as “The Stove Capital of the World”. In 1923 Art Stove was absorbed by the Detroit Stove Company. Today the main floor sits empty sans a pile of old lumber resting in the middle of the space. Kris and I follow one of the owners as he leads us to the rotunda that served as the buildings grand entrance. We climb the dark, creaking, wooden circular stairway, it is still beautiful. The second story looks much as the first, fallen plaster, peeling paint, but somewhere beyond all that a lovely building remains, most of the wood moldings and window frames are in tact, a fireplace sits empty…for now anyways. The owners are filled with energy and determination, if they have their way a new group of studios will fill the empty rooms and artists will make themselves at home. I am looking forward to the day when we come back and see it all finished.

docomomo 205

docomomo 195

HAMTRAMCK: Food Week Fun !

6 Nov

hamtown 088

 From goods and services to the food we eat, these days we are all being encouraged to “Buy Local”.  Cities big and small are making it easier to do just that! Hamtramck recently hosted their very own Food Week, home to many affordable and diverse restaurants, the food scene in Hamtramck is flourishing. Nikita Santches of Rock City Pies, has just opened a full service restaurant on Joseph Campau called, what else, Rock City Eatery. Not to worry, in addition to lunch and dinner, he is still making his incredible selection of outstanding pies. The eatery has taken over the old Maria’s Comida space, completely redone, we hardly recognized the interior; dark floor, particle board wall, silver ceiling, crystal chandelier and a poster of Iggy Pop, the place has a casual, hip vibe. Serving plates are vintage and mismatched, as are the tables and chairs.  Our waiter arrives with mason jars, a bottle of water and menus, reading over the selections, it’s hard to decide–everything sounds appealing. I was surprised to learn they also have a liquor licence, we ordered a cocktail to go with our sandwich. Before we know it our Un-Kosher Brisket sandwich arrives; tender braised brisket, apricot schmear, melted Gruyère and Manischewitz onions, so tasty and delicious, served with a side of yummy potato salad, it really hit the spot. It is impossible to resist a piece of Rock City’s Butterscotch Bourbon Pecan Pie, so just give in and enjoy, it’s wonderful!

hamtown 015hamtown 003

hamtown 011

With time before our tour of Hamtown Farms, we stop in at the Hamtramck Historical Museum down Joseph Campau a little way. In its early stages, exhibits currently fill the front area only. Photos, memorabilia, antiques and more reveal Hamtramck’s rich history. Located next to the Polish Art Center, the 8,000 sq ft space was formerly the city’s first department store. Maps date back to 1874, a clock from Max’s Jewelry Co. hangs on a wall, if you’ve never seen a real prohibition-era ‘still’, here’s your chance. Large pieces such as a 1925 hand crank phonograph, a wringer and antique stove take us back in time. Dodge Main drew thousands to the area, changing the face of the city. Trunks, trophies and uniforms add a personal touch, new displays are being added all the time. Open Saturday and Sunday, admission is free, come check it out.

hamtown 021

hamtown 029

hamtown 031

In its second year, volunteer run Hamtown Farms resides on nine vacant parcels of land on Lumpkin near Holbrook. Here we find a small orchard and working farm; raised beds are brimming with vegetable plants, young Paw Paw, Cherry and Pear trees have yet to bear fruit. A large group of people have gathered for the short tour and history of the farm. Our guide, Michael explains how after years of picking up trash, disposing of old tires and mowing the vacant land the community came together to create this welcome green space. Walking through the grassy area Michael points out a Paw Paw Tree, the fruit of the tree is said to taste like a mix of mango and banana, they are looking towards the future when the Paw Paws on site will provide fruit for the community. Raised beds line a gravel area, some are private, belonging to residents, others are for community picking; plants are heavy with ripe, red tomatoes, Swiss chard is tall  and colorful, cornstalks have a few remaining ears. A long row of sunflowers is eye-catching, petals range from pale to deep yellow to copper, all with fuzzy looking brown centers. Hamtown Farms is currently in negotiations with Hamtramck’s Emergency Financial Manager to permanently acquire the parcels, looks like it may be a tough fight. I encourage you to go to their website and read more about it. 

hamtown 035

hamtown 058

hamtown 071hamtown 037

Back on Jos Campau the pop-up Biergarten is just getting underway in the empty lot next to Lo & Behold. We drop into the shop to see what’s new, owner Richie Wohlfeil has assembled an eclectic array of items for sale. A section of the left wall is covered with old 45’s, next to that, milk crates stacked 5 high hold more items, cardboard cut-outs of Space Invaders hang from the ceiling, handmade shelves support rows of vintage books. You’ll find mid-century furniture, sheet music, art work, movie posters and cool old clothes, but mostly you’ll find old records; Johnny Cash, Sarah Vaughn, The Kingsmen, oldies, rock-n-roll and of course Jazz. It’s a great shop to come wander through or catch a live performance of a local band.

hamtown 101

hamtown 105

hamtown 100hamtown 103

We exit the store and find the Biergarten up and running, patrons hold plastic cups filled with beer from local breweries. Tables are large wooden spools turned on their sides, votive candles are at the ready when darkness comes. We order at the make-shift bar, the bartender tells us she is a Hamtramck resident and gushes with fondness for the city. More and more folks in their 20’s and 30’s are making the city their home. With such a diverse food culture, more restaurants and a new coffee shop on the way, affordable housing and a renewed energy, I can see why!

hamtown 121

Flint: Cool Old Stuff…

22 Sep

FLINT 046

Summer has come to a close, vintage cars are being tucked away for the winter in garages, barns and storage units. We wanted to give you one last look at these mechanical beauties with a rewind back to August; Flint’s 9th Annual Back To The Bricks. Held in downtown Flint on the bricked streets of South Saginaw, Martin Luther King Jr Blvd, King Ave and the surrounding blocks, this five-day celebration of the automobile draws thousands of visitors each year. Known as “vehicle city”, Flint is the birthplace of General Motors. Earlier in the day a statue of GM founder William C Durant was unveiled, he is responsible for much of Flint’s automotive history. His statue is rightfully located in Statue Plaza alongside fellow icons Louis Chevrolet and David Buick.

FLINT 053FLINT 118

FLINT 063

FLINT 079

We begin in the heart of the activities, S Saginaw Street, vintage cars line both sides of the strip as far as one can see; street rods, rat rods, muscle cars and customs. Paint colors vary from creamy whites to bright orange metalflake, pinstripes, side pipes, hood scoops and chrome bumpers all make an appearance. Cars are lowered, chopped and tricked out under the hood, chrome is everywhere; moldings, grills and bumpers. The sun is directly overhead in the flawless blue sky reflecting off of hoods the size of a Smart car. We roam street to street, the 70’s are alive and well represented by custom vans and Trans Ams. A large group of Buicks are parked on Water street for the 110th anniversary of the brand. Over on King St a Corvette reunion is being held, hundreds of Corvette models span the 60 year history, the crowd is thick, everyone is taking photos. Dragsters, trucks, even the old family station wagon is now cool; everybody has a memory or a story about an old car.

FLINT 071FLINT 096

FLINT 093

FLINT 102

We find ourselves on Second Street, directly in front of us the stunning marquis of the historic Capitol Theatre, wait, the door is open, people are milling about inside, what are we waiting for, let’s go in! Our love of architecture has led us to some pretty amazing buildings through the years, exteriors can be deceiving, you never know what you’ll find inside.The Capitol Theatre opened in 1928 as part of the W S Butterfield chain of theaters. The exterior is 15th century Hispano-Italian style, or so they say. All I know is, it is a gorgeous blend of brick and white terracotta, the vintage red and yellow marquis studded with hundreds of tiny white light bulbs and a double-sided blue vertical sign spelling out Capitol in white letters. My understanding is the current owner inherited the building when his father passed away, over the past few years a great deal of money has been spent and restoring and refurbishing this grand lady. Proceeding directly to the auditorium we look around in awe; the theater is the old atmospheric style, this one mimics a Roman courtyard. Ethereal blue LED lighting creates a glowing night sky, standing on the stage looking out we take in the room; arches line the sidewalls and are brightly lit, door frames and columns are at balcony level. Backstage a wall is thick with handles and levers for controlling lights and rigging, we follow a series of hallways and then descend a set of stairs. The basement is huge, an old sign off to one side leads us to believe there used to be a bowling alley on this level, we meet some local folks who confirm it. We meander from space to space, down hallways and past rooms that house the original theatre seats, signs and old equipment. Back up the stairs and through the auditorium again, we make our way to the balcony.

FLINT 007

FLINT 017FLINT 003

FLINT 025

Up the stairway we pause at the landing to have a look, the restoration has been completed in this area and it is elegant, opulent. Walls are textured plaster, a beautiful medallion pattern is painted gold with deep blue and red. Above us is a vaulted ceiling, a rope pattern shimmers in gold, antique light fixtures dangle from gold chains, dark wood trim surrounds walls and doorways, a large photo of the original interior rests on an easel. Walking to the front of the balcony we have a perfect, dazzling overview of the theater, the stage framed out in Roman-style architecture, the sidewalls resembling a city; it is still a work-in-progress. I overhear people talking as they look around, some share memories of when they used to come here to see movies, others, like us, are seeing the building for the first time; all are excited and looking forward to the time when we can come back and see it completed.

FLINT 027

FLINT 022FLINT 039

FLINT 010

One of our favorite lunch spots in Flint is Hoffman’s Deco Deli and Cafe, lucky for us Garland St is just a short walk away. Inside we get a reprieve from the heat of the day, though the patio is inviting, the air conditioning feels too good to pass up. We place our order at the counter then have a seat window-side at a high-top table. Sipping on ice-cold diet cokes, our food arrives without delay; the BBQ Chicken salad is piled high with greens, peppers, bacon and chunks of chicken breast, BBQ sauce is the dressing. We opt for the Super Veggie sandwich on nutty multigrain bread (Breads come from Fenton’s Crust bakery), the sandwich is cool, the veggies crisp, feta cheese adds a saltiness, the seasoning makes it a home run. Lunch was delicious, time to get back into the thick of things.

FLINT 090

FLINT 086

Back through the brick streets of town we make our way toward our car, Kris points out a beautiful church on Saginaw street and notices it is open to visitors. St Paul’s Episcopal Church was completed in August of 1873, much of the church remains the same today as it did 140 years ago. The church has a familiar look and feel to me, I learn the architect was Gordon W Lloyd who also designed The Whitney, Wright Kay building, Christ Church Detroit and the Central United Methodist Church in Detroit, ok, now I know why. Passing by the large oak exterior doors we find ourselves in a lovely Gothic Revival space; walls are painted a rich gold, dark wood beams frame the ceiling and walls, extraordinary chandeliers hang from long chains. Light pours in through a series of stained glass windows, most are memorials donated or given to the church in honor of select parishoners; one titled Easter Morning was made by Louis Comfort Tiffany in his New York studio. In customary English tradition choir stalls face one another, the high altar is carved istrain marble from Italy, a mosaic of The Last Supper came from Venice, wainscoting and wood carvings were done in Grand Rapids MI. I cannot leave out the decorative floor tiles in the chancel, they are Flint’s own Faience Tiles and they are just wonderful. The church provides informative brochures on the building, one is a guided walking tour of the building, the other concentrates solely on the windows, after briefly looking them over I realize many of the church’s most special and noteworthy belongings were donated by members of the church.

FLINT 122

FLINT 130FLINT 127

FLINT 125

At one time Flint was an industrial powerhouse, men who lived here made their fortunes in lumber, railroads and of course automobiles, they employed thousands. The vehicles produced put the world on wheels, allowing individuals personal modes of transportation that took us to the local market or across the country. Many are considered works of art by enthusiasts, they capture their time period perfectly, which I think is the reason Americans love the automobile. In turn, these men, their families, gave back to their community, spending their fortunes creating foundations, museums, purchasing art, paying for the construction of amazing churches and buildings. Today their legacy still stands and is there for all of us to enjoy.

 

Roadtrip: London, Ontario

16 Sep

london 067

London, Ontario, with a population of over 366,000 people, this cosmopolitan city resides about halfway between Detroit and Toronto, at the forks of the Thames River. Home to Fanshawe College, the University of Western Ontario (referred to now as simply “Western”), and the place where Labatt and Carling Breweries were founded, this city has much to offer visitors; did I mention Butter Tarts? It is our last day in town; our suitcases are packed, we leave Idlewyld Inn, where we have spent the last two nights and drive over to the cool Wortley Village neighborhood for a quick breakfast. Fond of the Black Walnut Bakery Cafe on Wortley Rd, we dash in for coffee and pastries, eat them outside at a small cafe table then drive over to Dundas St in the Old East Village.

london 017

I love cities; while the downtown areas may be the center of activity, it’s the neighborhoods that tell the true story of the people who call it home. When we travel we are always sure to visit neighboring districts, here we discover the real flavor and personality of the town. We find ourselves in the Old East Village, a little rough around the edges, this a a compact walkable neighborhood. The commercial corridor remains intact and new businesses are beginning to sprout up in this section of Dundas Street. Part of the reason for the current gentrification is the Western Fair Farmers and Artisans Market. Located in the historic Confederation Building, the market is home to over 100 vendors spread out over two floors. Today is Saturday, market day, the place is buzzing with activity! Inside we are greeted by the combined scent of fresh ground coffee, baked goods and fresh produce. Aisles are cramped with locals doing their weekly shopping, vendors meander through the crowds handing out samples; this is more than just a market, it is the social center of town. Recently the market has become a business incubator, some folks who set up shop here have experienced enough success to add a brick and mortar location in the village. Wandering through we pass merchants selling meats, produce and cheese, there’s baked goods, coffee and chocolates, we like to taste as we go. 

london 033

london 019

london 038

tarto

We come across a space that is lined with people, I try to wedge my way over to the display case to see what all the fuss is about, I finally get a glimpse: Butter Tarts!! If you are not familiar with Butter Tarts, you don’t know what you’re missing; the quintessential pastry of Canada, namely Ontario, it is a small, delicate pastry shell with a filling of butter, sugar and eggs, baked to a perfect golden brown. I know, it sounds so simple, so mundane, but believe me, it is anything but! Everywhere we have driven the last three days we have seen signs advertising these delicacies; local shops, bakeries, we even passed a house on a main road with a homemade sign out front that read “Chocolate Dipped Butter Tarts”. I have seen nothing like this particular booth, they sell the most amazing varieties; raisin, almond, coconut, there’s chocolate, raspberry and even a “smartie”. With such a long line we decide to head upstairs instead to the Artisan’s Market; photography, paintings and other handcrafts fill the large space. One wall is covered with whimsical birdhouses, a booth with vintage furnishings grabs our attention, beautiful wood chests and hand-made rocking horses fill another stall. Further on a dealer sells handcrafted benches that look like they belong in an enchanted forest.

london 044

london 042

london 046

We move on to the business district of the village; our first stop is the Artisan Bakery on Dundas. The charming brick building is bustling with customers, the aroma of fresh-baked bread fills the air, on top of the counter butter tarts are stacked three high, we order ours to go! Barely outside we take a bite of the pastry, tender crust, a soft sweet filling, it is the epitome of deliciousness! A door or two over is a cheese shop, the wall behind the counter covered in black chalkboard paint lists a variety of cheeses made with sheep, goat or cow’s milk. I try a piece of a Canadian cheese, it’s so good I order a chunk to go. Realizing we are starving we set out to find a place for lunch; we don’t have to look far, Unique Food Attitudes is just up the road. Attracted by its modern looking exterior and hanging ball lights, we never would have pegged it for a Polish restaurant! We are seated by the window, our waitress is actually the owner, she tells us the specials of the day, by her accent it is clear she is from Poland. On her recommendation we ordered several different dish combinations; goulash served over a potato pancake, pierogi, krokiety, red cabbage and cucumber salads. The food is outstanding, everything is made from scratch daily. If you like Polish food, be sure and look this place up.

london 102

london 101

london 097

Museum London is located downtown at the fork of the Thames River, housing London’s art collection and its historical museum, visiting is a nice way to become a little more acquainted with the city. Constructed in the early 1980’s the building itself is made of glass and steel, inside the ceiling and walls are bright white, the rear of the building overlooks Harrison Park and the river. Today a wedding is being held inside the museum, they are also between exhibits, restricting us to only a small portion of the collections. The art is both Canadian and regional, much of it modern and pleasing to us. The historical section houses 45,000 artifacts detailing the culture and  history of London. Our visit is shorter than expected so we exit through the back and take a stroll through the park. It is a delightful summer day, families gather in the park, joggers and cyclists fill the pathways, children cool themselves in the splash pad. Across the river bank the Blackburn Memorial Fountain shoots long streams of water into the river below, restored historic buildings rest on the nearby bluff, in the distance office towers rise above the museum.

london 061

london 057london 049

london 054

It occurs to us we are only a couple of blocks from the downtown market, never ones to pass up gourmet food, we are so there. Since 1999 the Covent Garden Market has been providing Londoners with organic produce, meat, fish and baked goods, along with restaurants that range from fine dining to carry-out. Entering we are greeted by bouquets of cut flowers, the market is named after a flower, fruit and vegetable market in London England. Canadian flags hang from the metal rafters, local farmers fill their spaces with ripe red tomatoes, freshly picked apples and anything else that is in season. We stroll the narrow aisles past coffee roasters and a glass case filled with French macaroons colored pink, yellow, teal and purple. A chocolatier invites us to taste his dark chocolate, he dips a wooden skewer into the pot of warm liquid chocolate–it is divine. We cover both floors encountering artwork, ice cream, handmade clothing and sushi. The time has come to head back to the US. We have had a wonderful time in Canada and promise ourselves we’ll come back soon!

london 079

london 087

london 075

london 091

About an hour west of London we make one last stop at the Rock Glen Conservation area. This 10 hectare park is best known for two things; Rock Glen Falls and FOSSILS! There is even a little museum onsite, it closed just as we arrive….. We begin following a trail that leads us to a wooden stairway, we can already hear the rush of water from the falls, soon they come into view, at 10.7 metres (that’s about 35 feet to you and me) high, it is a stunning sight. Back up the stairs, we then follow a dirt trail that runs along the roadway, it leads us to another stairway in the woods. The conservation area is located in a transition zone, the Carolinian Forest Zone is to the south and the Great Lakes-St Lawrence Zone to the north, what that means is they have an amazing diversity of species from both zones; Sycamore, Black Walnut, and Tulip trees grow right alongside Sugar Maples, Beech and White Elm. Our walk through the forest is peaceful, the temperature is at least a few degrees cooler thanks to all of the trees. Ahead the stairway leads straight down, at the bottom a bridge leads across the shallow riverbed. It is here we pause to look for fossils, we walk a short distance into the woods, digging is not permitted, we see things that resemble fossils, but do not find any. Back on the bridge several samples lay out on the wood; brachiopods, crinoids and corals, they are all examples of extinct sea creatures that lived 350 million years ago–wow! This area is known worldwide for the Devonian era fossil deposits found here. They have done a great job providing trails, stairways and bridges that provide picturesque views of the area. Crossing the riverbed we are led back up to the top of the gorge and back to the parking lot, it is getting late and we still have a ferry to catch back to the US. It has been a wonderful few days in Ontario, we’ve had the pleasure of delicious food, friendly people, charming places and beautiful scenery–thanks Canada!

london 106

london 108london 116

london 126

fossilrama1

Roadtrip: Stratford, Ontario

9 Sep

stratford 096

 We are up early, after a quick stop at a local bakery for croissants, oj and coffee we are back on the road. In under an hour we arrive in Stratford, Ontario; you probably think of Stratford as the home of the Shakespeare Festival, which, of course, it is, but this lovely little town has more to offer than just theatre. The townsite and river are named after Stratford-upon-Avon in England. The Grand Trunk railway arrived in 1856 with the Buffalo and Lake Huron Line, in the 19th century it had become a Canadian railway hub and a center of furniture manufacturing. The architecture is distinctly Victorian, gorgeous brick buildings line the streets, gardens are found throughout the city, it is an arts, culture and culinary hub. Unfortunately it has started to rain, but that will not deter us from enjoying our visit.

stratford 022

stratford 038

stratford 031

The length of the river through town has been designed as a park, complete with walking trails and benches; fountains spout sprays of water skyward, lovely homes rest along the opposite bank of the river. We begin our walk along the shore, mature trees shelter us from the heavy rain that has begun to fall, a lone pontoon braves the weather. Walking on, swans have come ashore, there are several adults and multiple youngsters. Mallards are everywhere, a park employee has arrived on the scene to feed the ducks, she tosses handfuls of food into the surrounding grass, it is a lunchtime free-for-all. Out in the water a trio of empty gondolas wait patiently for the weather to improve. Looking out, the grounds are lush in varying shades of green, every so often we come upon a bridge spanning the river; made of wood, concrete or brick, each is distinct and special in design. In the distance the turret of a castle-like building peeks over the tree tops, the weather cannot make up its mind if it wants to rain or get sunny.

stratford 078

stratford 086

stratford 066

After walking both sides of the river we make our way downtown to Ontario street, lunchtime has arrived and Pazzo Taverna looks inviting. The cellar of the restaurant serves pizza and pasta, perfect! It feels good to be out of the rain, the contemporary interior feels cozy. Deciding on a pizza and antipasti plate, we sit back and relax as we wait for lunch to arrive. First out is a fabulous focaccia bread served with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, it is hard not to eat it all. Next to arrive is the antipasti plate, a marvelous assortment of thin-sliced meats, olives, cheeses and roasted red peppers, everything is delicious. The thin crust pizza is excellent…..we finish absolutely everything! This can only mean one thing…..we need to do more walking.

stratford 089stratford 092

stratford 093stratford 094

stratford 112

Outside we are happy to see the rain has stopped, we can put our umbrellas away. The buildings of downtown Stratford have remained in-tact, they are filled with galleries, cafes, home goods and clothing stores and specialty businesses. There is at least one bank on every block–handy if you need to exchange money.  Inside a doorway a sputnik light fixture catches our eye, turns out it is a coffee shop; funky decor, fresh baked goods and iced coffee, it’s our kind of place. After browsing the shops we walk the opposite way along the river to the Shakespeare Garden, pathways lead us beside a fragrant Rose garden. Designed by landscape architect H B Dunnington Grubb, the garden opened in 1936; at that time it was filled with plants mentioned in Shakespear’s plays. Today manicured hedges surround beds of annuals, a wonderful mix of perennials give the garden a different look throughout the summer months, a bronze bust of William Shakespear was installed in 1949. The sky has turned a brilliant azure, what a difference a couple of hours makes! We re-trace some of our steps so Kris can take some photos. In surrounding neighborhoods brick Victorian homes are prevalent, many the yellow color found so often in Ontario; well manicured and decorated with lots of wood details, I encourage you to stroll along at least one residential street while you’re here.

stratford 098

stratford 061

stratford 111

stratford 117

Back in London we freshen up then head out for dinner. Wortley Village is only a few blocks away from our Inn, inhabited by independent shops and restaurants, we saw several places that looked enticing. Gusto Food and Wine Bar is open late and offers patio seating, just what we are looking for. In addition to entrees and salads the menu features a series of small plates; after reading over the selections and asking our waitress for suggestions, we place our order. The stuffed risotto balls are served with a sambuca pomodoro sauce, a fantastic dish, much larger than expected. The Flat iron steak tacos are tender and flavorful, last to make an appearance are the chips and dip; jalapeno crab dip, walnut goat cheese artichoke dip and Texas caviar (salsa) served with crostini and root vegetable chips, it is all delicious and way too much for just two people! The food and service were outstanding, definitely a place we’ll come back to.

london 007

london 001

We are staying in the “old south” historic district of London, Ontario, at Idlewyld Inn. Built in 1878 as a private residence for Charles Smith Hyman, the (wealthy) mayor of London, it has gone from a family home to luxury apartments, a nursing home, a bed and breakfast and finally a historic boutique hotel. Visiting the Inn is like going back in time, designed in Victorian style, the interior is elegant, grand, luxurious. Floral print carpets cover the floors, antique fixtures glow with soft light, ornately carved wood is deeply colored and varnished to a high shine; it covers walls and surrounds the fireplace in the parlor. Ceilings are high, period furniture fills the public areas. The original dining room as been turned into a sophisticated restaurant that is open to the public; serving locally produced meat, vegetables, fruit and herbs, their extensive wine list offers the perfect vintage to go with every dish. Idlewyld is home to 23 unique, well appointed guest rooms, we are staying on the third floor. The hotel has maintained it’s Victorian charm while at the same time offering modern conveniences such as Wi-Fi , Jacuzzi tubs and an elevator. We have had a full day, time to get some sleep.

london 009bend 161

london 012

stratford 012

DETROIT: Pewabic Pottery

27 Aug

pewabic110 034

It is a lovely summer day, we have just arrived at Pewabic Pottery on Jefferson for the annual Home and Garden Show. A large tent occupies the paved parking lot, outdoors, large pieces are displayed among groupings of patio furniture, smaller pieces can be found in flower beds and along walkways. Inside the white tent, a banner hangs, this is Pewabic’s 110th Anniversary; tables are draped in turquoise blue cloths, topiary’s act as centerpieces, signature Pewabic pieces and t-shirts are available for purchase. Artist’s tables line the enclosed space, we start from the back and work our way forward. Tiles are a popular item, one table features flowers such as Tulips, Daisies and Poppies, another table is lined with clay pieces shaped like Ginko leaves, the glaze is fabulous, going from milky to metallic. Motawi Tileworks has a fanciful selection of Arts and Crafts style pieces, I like the one with the bunny. Further on, plates, nesting bowls, vases and cups feel free-form, glazed in turquoise, yellow and peach, they make me want to buy all new dishware. A tall tile reflects an up north scene, complete with a Pine tree, sand dunes and a lake in the distance. The next factory tour is about to begin, time to go inside.

pewabic110 018pewabic110 013

pewabic110 005

pewabic110 022

Pewabic Pottery was founded in 1903 by Mary Chase Perry Stratton, this Tudor revival style building was built in 1907 to house the factory. Pewabic is known for its vessels, tiles and architectural ornamentation for both public and private installations, Mary is known for her unique iridescent glaze. Pewabic pottery can be found throughout the United States including pieces in Washington DC, Houston, New York and the Nebraska State Capitol. The building itself is a National Historic Landmark. Let’s go in. We start at the museum store, here tiles and vesselware handcrafted by Pewabic staff members are available for sale. I see many signature pieces such as vases and tiles in colors such as blue, olive and gold. The next area belongs to the Gallery of Studio Artists, you will find a gorgeous variety of items such as mugs, vases and bowls in diverse finishes. The showroom contains tile collections, samples of tiles and glazes, this is where you would come if you were interested in having something done for your house. We climb a narrow stairway to the second floor, story boards and photos teach us the history of Pewabic Pottery and its founder Mary Chase Perry Stratton. We see an antique kiln and some of Mary’s early pieces, the room itself is quaint; leaded glass windows, black painted arches and door frames, and a stunning tile fireplace.

pewabic110 033

pewabic110 016

pewabic110 030

We proceed to the Kiln room, this is where the firing is done. Think of a kiln as a giant oven that heats up to about 2300 degrees F, it bakes the soft clay pieces called greenware into a hardened piece called bisque, bisque is then glazed (painted) and fired again, the end result, the beautiful items displayed in the store. On the right are two “car” kilns, our guide points out tracks on the floor, kilns are pulled out on these tracks to be opened.  On the left is a fancy computerized version called an envelope kiln, I have to imagine it gets pretty hot in here when the kilns are on. Pewabic makes their own clay, in liquid form it is called slip. We walk through the clay making area, stopping to see the belt-driven equipment, original to the building and used by Mary herself. They make 1500 pounds of clay per week! Further on we enter the Glaze room, all glazes are made here, shelves are lined with five-gallon pails filled with different colors. Glazes are applied by spraying, dipping or hand painting; tiles are usually sprayed, while vessels are usually dipped.  Rolling racks are filled with glazed pieces ready to go into the kiln, the colors are a mystery to me at this point, as they completely change and come to life in the firing process.

pewabic110 059

pewabic110 043

pewabic110 046

In the tile pressing area a woman is showing us how a tile is made, a square chunk of clay is placed in a plaster mold, working with her thumbs she presses the clay evenly into the mold. She picks up a different mold that has been sitting about a half hour and gently coaxes the tile out by tapping it on the table, an image of a bumblebee surrounded by a honeycomb pattern appears. When the clay is completely dry the piece is cleaned and placed on a rack, when enough pieces are ready they will be loaded into the kiln and fired. We end our tour upstairs with a visit to the Education studio, this is where classes and workshops are held. The room is lined with works-in-progress, students work at tables and benches, there is a small classroom area for children. There is no class today, but a few students are hard at work. Downstairs we pass through the store area once more, there are so many beautiful things to look at.

pewabic110 049

pewabic110 047

pewabic110 056

We decided to choose somewhere close to have lunch, Andrews On The Corner is just down the road on Jos Campau at Atwater. The temperature has gotten steamy, so we choose to eat indoors, our waitress greets us with menus and glasses of ice water. We glance at the selections; soups made from scratch, salads, burgers, fish and steak, it all sounds good. The room is on the dark side, in that dive bar sort of way, dark wood floors and wainscoting, walls are deep red, wood booths line the perimeter of the room, the bar is the centerpiece. The cabinet behind the bar is a handsome piece, in the center an art deco style mirror reflects the light, glass block flanks each side. Just like that, our food arrives; the grilled jerk chicken salad is plentiful, the chicken sits atop a bed of spinach, strawberries and feta cheese are sprinkled about, raspberry vinaigrette is served on the side. The chicken is cooked perfectly, the combination of flavors a winner. The Ground Round burger is also good, we shared both things, making for a nice light lunch.

pewabic110 063

pewabic110 068

The Atwater Brewery ijust down the street on Jos Campau, housed in a 1919 factory warehouse the brewery itself was founded in 1997. In case you are not aware of it, Atwater has its own taproom right inside the brewery, who doesn’t like a cold beer on a hot day? We pull up a seat at the bar, after a brief description of what’s on tap, we make our decision, a Summer Time Ale for Kris and a half Vanilla Java Porter, half Decadent Dark Chocolate Ale for me. As we sip our beer we look around the brewery space, the main brewing equipment is Kasper Schultz brought in from Germany, malt and hops for lagers are from Germany, while American hops are used in specialty ales. Kegs are shrink-wrapped to pallets and stacked high, bottles of beer are packed by hand into cardboard boxes, long communal tables made of planks are set off to the side. I love the names of the beer: Grand Circus IPA, Purple Gang Pilsner, Detroit Pale Ale, and the ever popular Dirty Blonde. Before we know it our glasses are empty, for a mere dollar you can take the glass home. If you are looking for an out-of-the way spot to chill and you like beer, visit the Atwater Tap Room.

pewabic110 071

pewabic110 076

DETROIT: Let’s Go Shopping!

18 Aug

midtown 047

With all of the media attention focused on the negative, the ugly and the bankruptcy, you may not be aware of the positive, the pretty and the growth going on these days in Detroit. Today we are going to give you a new perspective, just a little slice of the positive things happening in Detroit; we are headed to Midtown for some boutique shopping, Thai food, lovely streetscapes and an “American company dedicated to making things again in America”. Let’s get started! The Auburn Building is located on Cass Ave at the corner of Canfield, the structure features two stories of residential apartments above a ground floor that is home to design-focused shops and take-out, with plenty of metered parking right out front. We begin our shopping trip at Cass Corridog, owner Michelle has operated for the last two years as Woofbridge Feed and Supply out of Canine to Five, when the opportunity arose to move into her own space, she grabbed it. We are here on the shop’s opening day, large bags of dog food are standing at the back of the room, to the left a selection of toys and leashes hang on the wall. Gold toned walls and light wood make the 800 sq ft space feel warm and cozy. The shop sells a full line of pet care and nutrition products for dogs, cats, and even some fish supplies; the new larger space has also allowed for the addition of a pet bakery……lucky dogs!

gallery 025

gallery 029

gallery 026

Next we wander into Nora, here you will find a pleasant assortment of items for the home, this is the kind of shop I love to browse. The room is bright and airy, walls and ceiling are pure white in contrast to the dark concrete floor. Large tables display colorful items such as serving dishes, pottery and glassware. Cubbies hold dishtowels, aprons and reusable shopping bags, funky clocks are perched on shelves, display cases feature unique Detroit jewelry. I walk around slowly, looking at everything, trying not to touch, pieces are both useful and attractive, much of it has a Scandinavian feel; the selection always changing. Selling top brands and good quality items, this store would be right at home in Somerset Mall or Birmingham.  It’s a great place to pick up a gift, Nora has cards too, they’ll even wrap the gift for you! Right next door is Hugh, if you are into “bachelor pad” style, fond of the 60’s or just like really cool stuff, you need to stop in. Hugh was actually the very first winner of the Hatch Detroit competition in 2011. The place is very swanky, in that Dean Martin/Frank Sinatra sort of way. Walls are richly colored in emerald-green and charcoal grey, floating shelves and cabinets are stained dark, the furniture has clean lines and feels somewhat masculine. Glass pieces are a mix of vintage and brand new; cocktail shakers, ice buckets, martini and wine glasses come in a variety of attractive shapes and sizes. Today a wooden cabinet is off to the side, when a fellow shopper inquires about it, Joe is on his feet, he begins to open doors and unfold shelves, in a few short minutes it has become a desk–gotta love that old-fashioned ingenuity. On the other side a collection of personal accessories such as shaving kits and flasks can be found. The only thing missing is a big old 1967  Imperial parked out front…… We stop in often as there is always something new to see.

gallery 043

gallery 039

gallery 033

Time for a lunch break; we walk to the corner of the building and step inside Go! Sy Thai, the family owned restaurant has been operating in Birmingham since 1993, recently they opened a few new locations, we are going to give it a try. Standing at the counter we read the menu above, since both of us love Thai food, it is easy to choose. After our order is placed we take our cups to the pop machine, grab some silverware and napkins and wait for my name to be called. In no time our fresh roll and tofu tod are ready, each comes with its own dipping sauce, both are delicious. My name is called a second time, the drunken noodles wait for me at the counter. Sitting at the window overlooking Cass Ave, we watch as cars and pedestrians make their way about town, the drunken noodles are excellent, the texture perfect and just the right amount of heat, the portion is large, perfect for sharing. This is a great place to stop in for a quick meal or carry out.

midtown 003

midtown 009

Previously located on the corner of Cass and Willis, Source Booksellers has made the move to the Auburn Building. An independent, non-fiction bookstore Source features books on History, Culture, Health and Well Being. The selection is hand-picked, you can find books by and about women, the spiritual and metaphysical. The space is inviting, the terra-cotta colored floor gleams, walls are painted black, wooden shelves hold a multitude of volumes. Source offers free community activities such as Tai Chi and book talks, they also offer a small selection of world music and greeting cards. I can’t resist a good bookstore, this one has much to offer.

gallery 044

midtown 012

Global Detroit Human is the next store on the block, owner Jill Drnek has brought together the Detroit designer community in a single storefront. The interior space has a great vibe, a mural takes up the left wall, free-standing clothing racks hold a variety of styles and sizes. Corrosive Clothing is well represented, selling a variety of men’s t-shirts, Six Luxe offers resort wear, Curves specializes in sizes 12-22, pieces from Homeslice Clothing and Lavinia are also available; I can’t resist checking out the purses and accessories. The pieces on the racks run from casual to evening, there is something for everyone.

midtown 045

midtown 021

midtown 030

Last, but certainly not least is Shinola, located on Canfield near Traffic Jam. My how things change; the streetscape in that area has gone from non-existent to wow in a very short time. Shinola has been in the news a lot lately, and for good reason; their tag line is, Where American Is Made. Yes indeed, this is the first company in 40 years to build watches at scale in America, where in America? Why,  Detroit, of course. Pardon me while I gush, but I find it refreshing, exciting and high time somebody recognizes all that Detroit has to offer. Highly skilled workers are employed by the company to build fine watches right here in the historic (1928 Albert Kahn designed) Argonaut building within CCS. The retail shop is gorgeous! Beautiful, well made items include their signature watches, leather goods, clothing, journals and bicycles. Helpful sales clerks roam the floor, they are friendly and eager to answer questions. Items are displayed in an eye-pleasing way, small glass cases group things by color. The bicycles are assembled right here, you can even watch the process,  built one at a time, by hand,the finished product complete with leather seat and hand grips, even a bell if you’d like. Off to the side is a small juice bar offering organic cold-pressed juice for sale in glass bottles. Drought is a Plymouth based juice company owned and operated by the James sisters. Today they are doing a brisk business, some customers have a seat outdoors at the large community table, the juice is taken as a meal. The store itself is busy, lots of folks trying on watches, each says “Shinola Detroit” on the back.  I am surprised at the variety and the ability, no, the desire, to make it all in America. I love this quote from their website: “we know there’s not just history in Detroit, there is a future.” I can’t argue with that.

midtown 039

midtown 041