DETROIT: Historical Museum

3 Jan

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 Kris and I recently got our first look at the newly updated Detroit Historical Museum; we were happy to see old favorites like the Streets of Old Detroit spiffed up along with brand new exhibits such as the Kid Rock Music Lab. The city of Detroit has an amazing history, the museum showcases significant periods throughout more than 300 years, there’s a lot of them! Exhibits are spread out over several floors, we began at the top and worked our way down.

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A large area is currently dedicated to rail transportation in Detroit; did you know that at the turn of the 20th century Detroit had the largest regional mass transportation network in the US? Curators did a great job taking us back in time to the days when trains and trolley’s ruled the streets. Photos of old city train stations, rescued architectural pieces, signs, tickets and tokens are all on display. Vintage seats are arranged as they would be on a train, antique lanterns and crossing signs remind us of the old days. The Arsenal Of Democracy exhibit is fascinating; a glimpse into the staggering contribution Detroit manufacturing made to the war effort. Another interesting fact: Detroit produced 30% of the war materials generated in the US before the end of the war in 1945. At that time Detroit was re-invented as a military industrial center with over 700,000 people working in the factories.

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The Motor City area has been refreshed; the Body Drop is working once again, yay. Here you will find all sorts of memorabilia related to the auto industry; signs and brochures, design renderings, promo cars, even a speaker from an old drive-in; car culture sort of stuff, very cool. There’s a neat history of Woodward Ave; street signs, photos, even a parking meter. We headed down the stairs to our old favorite: The Streets of Old Detroit. If you grew up in metro Detroit, chances are you came here on a field trip in elementary school. I am happy to say not much has changed and it is looking better than ever; I love the addition of the Sanders Confectionery. Meander over streets made of brick, logs and rocks; wander in and out of 19th century businesses like the barber shop, bicycle store and of course, the corner drug store, complete with a soda fountain and Vernors. Down the hall the Glancy Trains are still running; a gift from Alfred R Glancy Jr of Grosse Pointe, these trains have been mesmerizing adults and children alike for decades. Trains glide over tracks laid out on multiple levels, tiny buildings make up towns along the route as cable cars ride along overhead. There’s a tiny amusement park and a hot air balloon; a camera mounted on the front of a train projects the passenger view onto a screen.

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The Kid Rock Music Lab highlights musical artists ranging from Bob Seger and Iggy Pop to Aretha Franklin and the White Stripes. Interactive displays make this a popular exhibit. The Allesee Gallery of Culture is an awesome new addition; photos of downtown skyscrapers cover the walls making you feel as if you are standing in the heart of the city. Large glass enclosures divide Detroit into several time periods; newspaper articles, clothing and household items define the era; iconic items such as seats from old Tiger Stadium, a drinking fountain from Hudson’s and the like bring smiles to the faces of locals. The renovations are well done and make the museum equally appealing to those familiar with Detroit and those who are not. Click HERE for museum slideshow.

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A new restaurant has opened on the corner of Woodward and Putnam in the Maccabees building, so we wanted to give it a try. The building itself is incredible! Completed in January of 1927 and designed by, who else? Albert Kahn. The exterior of the building is limestone, the entrance is a 3-story recessed barrel vault arch surrounded by fantastic carvings. The main lobby is exquisite; the barrel ceiling is a mass of gold mosaic tiles forming intense patterns. One section creates a scene complete with palm trees ripe with coconuts and deer drinking from a stream. There is a grand chandelier and then a series of smaller ones that hang from chains lining the hall, it is absolutely stunning! Walls and floors are marble each with its own distinct pattern, every surface is decorative. The hallway leading to Putnam has a wood beam ceiling covered in colorful stencil designs, don’t miss it. Elevators are shiny brass as are the door frames. The central section of the building is topped by a broadcast tower, prior to 1959 it was home to WXYZ; both the Lone Ranger and Green Hornet radio programs originated here, in the 1950’s Soupy Sales did his show from the lower level studio. WDET used the space from 1959 to 2001, Wayne State University currently owns the building. When Kris had finished taking photos we entered the restaurant section from the Woodward door.

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Maccabees at Midtown has only been open since the end of December, situated across the street from the DIA, the Detroit Public Library and steps away from the campus of Wayne State, the location is ideal. The space is gorgeous, immediately the chandeliers grab your attention. Reproductions of the originals they were made right here in Michigan. Great care was taken in transforming the space into a restaurant; the ceiling is burgundy, coffered panels are painted gold, maintaining the Romanesque style of the building. The owner greeted us at the door as we took our seats at a table near the window; we had a wonderful view of Woodward and the cultural district. The menu serves up an interesting variety of items such as potato pancake sandwiches, which of course we had to try. Ours was filled with tender roast beef, sautéed onions and a chipotle mayo, very tasty. We added the spinach salad, tossed with a balsamic vinaigrette and chunks of warm goat cheese fried in a crispy coating it was quite good. Their liquor license is on the way so stop in for a meal or cocktails and be sure to have a look around.

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Detroit now has it’s very own tea house in the Sugar Hill Arts District. Located on the lower level of the Garfield Building, Socra Tea serves up 50 varieties of organic teas and fresh baked goods. You can drink your tea in-house or get it to go; all loose teas are also available for purchase by the ounce. If you like tea plan on spending some time here; owner Meg was happy to open up canister after canister and let us smell the blends (much more fun for me than him). Kris and I each ordered a tea and accompanied it with a shortbread cookie. Adjacent to the tea room is a pottery studio, pieces are on display and for sale along with photography and other art work.

HOLLY: Old Skool Christmas Shopping

27 Dec

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Along with Christmas decorations and Santa Claus the holidays also bring numerous activities to take part in, the hardest part is deciding  which to do. On a dreary Sunday we took a ride out to Holly to check out their annual Dickens Festival. With beautiful Victorian brick buildings and small town charm Holly is the perfect setting for the festival.  We arrived to find the town decked out in Christmas splendor; tiny white lights strung along the main street, a large decorated tree in the center of town and folks dressed up in period clothing greeting visitors. A hand bell choir was entertaining the crowd, rows of chairs were laid out so you could relax and listen. Small wood burning fires in pots both scented the air and provided a place to warm up, the only thing missing was snow. The highlight of the afternoon is the performance of A Christmas Carol that takes place in front of the Village Office.  Members of Joe Mishler’s Blue Heron Theater Group volunteer their time and put on the show. Actors are dressed in period costumes, but instead of traditional sets they recite their lines standing on the street…. think radio show. There is something irresistible about the tale of Ebenezer Scrooge and the ghosts of Christmas past, present and future, it always manages to draw me in no matter how many times I see it!

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Holly offers a number of dining establishments, Blackthorn Pub sits  on S. Saginaw St right in the midst of the activities. The quaint space is long and narrow, walls are orange brick highlighted by indirect lighting, tables were filled with families in town for the festivities. The menu consists of pub favorites; sandwiches, salads, burgers and  a huge beer selection; 20 craft beers on tap and over 100 bottled beers. We went with the Reuben and the Spinach Salad, the service was good, the food not quite… 

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There is no shortage of antique shops in town, we walked from the restaurant to S. Broad Street which is one block over and started there. There are two big shops here Water Tower Antiques, your typical store selling old glassware, lamps, vintage toy trucks, and jewelry. Balcony Row Antiques is one of the more unusual shops we’ve been to; from the really, really old to not-so-old they have an eclectic collection of items for sale. They purchased an entire room and retro-fit it to the store from the carved walnut paneling to the paintings hanging on the wall. We saw primitive items, pewter, a spinning wheel and an old diorama previously displayed at the Ann Arbor Natural History Museum…….you don’t see that every day! The place is fascinating, definitely worth a look.

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Around the corner on Battle Alley you will find Arcade Antiques, this too is a unique setting. Laid out in a creative manner the interior resembles a tiny village, each storefront housing a different blend of antiques. Building facades are two stories tall and no two are alike, even the floor is unique; made of cut logs it adds an air of authenticity.

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 At over 10,000 sq.ft Main Street Antiques on S. Saginaw is the largest shop in the village; this place has everything. From Radio Flyers and Partridge Family record albums to dishes and even a phone booth, plan on spending some time looking around. We walked around the ground floor going from room to room seeing things we recognized from our grandparents and even our own childhoods (how scary is that?) The second floor is one large space with a splendid view of main street; the windows are large with beautiful stained glass pieces creating a colorful arch above. The floor up here is a squeaky one but it doesn’t seem to bother anyone.  We even found some mid-century items up here. No shortage of great antiques in picturesque architecture, Holly, a fun daytrip…

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DETROIT: Firing up the Christmas Spirit

22 Dec

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It was the first weekend in December, the grass was still green and the temperatures mild, how is one to get into the holiday spirit? How about the 40th annual Noel Night in downtown Detroit? Yep, that’ll do it! We began our quest with a trip to the Masonic Temple, Handmade Detroit was hosting their seventh annual Detroit Urban Craft Fair. We secured a parking spot on Temple and quickly noticed numerous shoppers both coming and going from the entrance. Inside we boarded the elevator and pressed the button for 3M, we stepped off the elevator and walked over to the drill hall; we’re not used to being in this space without seeing the Detroit Derby Girls whipping around and flying through the air, but this edgy holiday craft show fit the space well.

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The room seemed so much larger; gone were the spectator chairs and tape lines marking off the track, the hardwood floor was now covered with row after row of tables, the lights were softer and the aisles were crowded with folks  hunting for holiday gifts. We walked to the far end and began to wander;  jewelry was prevalent, made from birch bark, glass, wrought iron nails and other interesting materials. Christmas trees decorated with hand crafted ornaments could be found on tables along with other home decor pieces, the mood was light and festive. Why is it when I’m shopping for other people I always find things for myself? There were unique objects like skate boards decked out in racing stripes and custom paint, original stuffed animal characters, and funky posters; no shortage of clever tongue in cheek items here…  T-shirts with original phrases and artwork were fun to look at, we saw beautiful hand dyed scarves, homemade jams, chocolates and greeting cards. Up and down the corridors we went, derby championship banners hanging from the ceiling, shoppers arms heavy with packages, so much more fun than shopping at a mall! The Masonic truly is one of the coolest venues in the city.

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The only hope for getting an easy parking spot on Noel Night is to get there early, so we did. With an upfront space outside Cass Cafe we stepped in for our traditional cocktail to kick off Noel Night. With two open seats at the bar we quickly procured them, ordered our drinks and checked over the evenings schedule. The event seems to grow each year, this year boasting over 200 performances in the Midtown district; all of it taking place in only 4 1/2 hours…impossible to do it all! By the time we had finished our drinks the line to get in had extended out the door; word was out, Noel Night is a blast.

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We began at the DIA, both of us being music lovers we decided to concentrate on the musical performances of the evening. Paul King and the Rhythm Society Orchestra were playing in Rivera Court and this year we got a seat! The atmosphere is magical, the music a delightful selection of old standards and Christmas tunes. I think I counted 15 musicians; they played beautifully as Paul King sang the lyrics, a couple of swing dancers entertained the audience from the side. When the set was finished we headed downstairs to the ever charming Kresge Court to hear a violin ensemble. A group of students dressed in black stood upon a stage playing their violins, the room was dimly lit, miniature white lights decorated the room, spectators watched and listened as the skillful musicians filled the air with holiday songs. 

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We proceeded outside and over to the International Institute on Kirby, they were featuring Holidays Around The World with international dance and song. As we arrived a group of elementary school aged girls took the stage; dressed in elegant white dresses they began to dance to traditional holiday music from Mexico. They danced carefree, a joyful smile upon their faces, parents and relatives gleamed in the audience. When they were finished the audience showed their appreciation with loud applause. Time was ticking and there was still so much to see.

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 Outside people were boarding horse-drawn carriages to take a ride through the city. Further up, the Park Shelton stands gracefully on the corner of Kirby and Woodward; the ground floor is now bursting with new businesses and all were open. We passed through Rodin, a new French inspired restaurant and wine bar recently opened by the same woman who owns Good Girls Go To Paris, loved the Eiffel tower in the entry way,I can’t wait to give it a try. A few doors down is Emerald, the place was packed! The furnishings came from the old Hudson’s and Crowley’s department stores from back in the 20’s and 30’s, the chandelier is from an old movie theatre in Wayne, gorgeous. They have a bit of everything from home goods and personal accessories to candy and paper products. You’re going to have to keep up with me now…..

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Across Woodward the St Paul Lutheran Church Bell Choir was playing on the Detroit Historical Museum‘s newly renovated plaza, inside the museum we listened to a few songs by the Deep River Choir; by now we were fully immersed in the spirit of the holiday. Every way we turned there were people out having a good time; some wore Santa hats, one woman was dressed from head to toe as a Christmas tree, she even had working lights. Walking south on Woodward we could hear laughing coming from the patio of The Whitney, so we went to see what it was about. We found an outdoor fire and folks sitting around it roasting marshmallows that would become the filling for smores, these Noel Night people think of everything.

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And so it went, everywhere we turned there was something to see, hear or do; we were in and out of churches, galleries and cultural institutions, and then, we were tired, and hungry. We made our way back to Cass, but instead of getting in the Jeep, we walked further, all the way to the Auburn Building. The Auburn is a brand new apartment building with retail space on the ground floor. New shops Hugh and Nora were a big hit with the crowd. Upstairs apartments were open to tour as was the large open terrace. With the great location and excellent view it’s easy to see why the units are renting out so quickly.

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With tens of thousands of pedestrians on the midtown city streets we thought it best to eat outside the activity zone. We can always count on Sala Thai in the Eastern Market district for a delicious meal. Fortunately there was an open booth when we arrived; we ordered the N-4 with tofu and sushi, it was on the table before we knew it. It felt good to sit down, relax and enjoy our meal. Detroit is on the move, it’s wonderful to watch the transformation back into a vibrant city; it’s even better to watch people discover it themselves.

CLEVELAND: Fun & Festive

18 Dec

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We awoke to a chilly November morning; rooftops had a light dusting of snow, downstairs Richard was busy making chocolate waffles for breakfast. Breakfast at Stone Gables is always scrumptious. Saturday was no exception, the waffles and homemade chocolate sauce were sinfully delicious. We had much to see, and new-found energy from the morning dose of sugar and caffeine to do it with. First stop: the Museum of Contemporary Art Cleveland (MOCA) located in the Uptown District. This is one of those new, funky-cool buildings; designed by Farshid Moussavi it is both her first US commission and her first museum. The building is 4 stories, the base is hexagonal and shoots up 60 feet to a square top. The exterior is a mirror-finish black  Rimex stainless steel, you can see yourself as you approach the entrance. The main floor is home to the lobby, cafe and museum store; as you look around the shape of the building is apparent, one of the main features is a gigantic stairway to the upper floors. There are four floors in all and each can be used for either exhibit space or public programs. The museum was bustling with visitors, it’s nice to see people excited about this recently opened venue. We climbed the stairs to check out the exhibits; gallery after gallery we viewed large paintings and sculptures, some life-like, some abstract. Each floor has windows that allow you a glimpse of the city completing the urban feel. The gallery has no permanent collection so the exhibits are never the same, always making you want to come back and see what’s new.

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We were motoring down Martin Luther King Jr drive near University Circle when our attention was drawn to a magnificent church. The door was open and people were going in and out, so we thought we see if we could take a peek. Just inside the door we were greeted by volunteers gathered to put up the Christmas decorations; they invited us in to have a look around, what luck! Eppworth Euclid United Methodist Church was designed by local architect Bertram Goodhue, his design included a towering steeple affectionately known as the “Holy Oil Can”. Built in 1928 is has many of the wonderful features found in churches back in the day; stained glass windows, granite exterior and stunning woodwork. 

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Back in the Jeep we continued down MLK  to the Rockefeller Greenhouse. Built in 1905 it was originally used to grow plants that would later be planted in the city’s parks, still used as a greenhouse it now includes display gardens. I love stopping in at different times of year to see the seasonal displays; I was anticipating rows of pots filled with Poinsettia’s in multiple colors, Christmas decorations and maybe a Cyclamen or two. Instead we found the seasonal beds full of round indentations, the Poinsettia’s waiting patiently in another area to be installed… bummer. Still the greenhouse was quite lovely with its fern grotto, mum display, fountains and a multitude of other greenery. The sun had come out inviting us to stroll the outdoor gardens. A very unique feature to the grounds is the Betty Ott Talking Garden For The Blind. A cement walkway leads through the garden, recorded messages play at certain points describing surrounding flora. A bronze statue of Helen Keller kneeling at a water pump is a main focal point, visitors can even operate the pump. Admission is free, well worth a look.

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Our stomachs reminded us that it was time for lunch, we drove back to Ohio City to eat at Johnny Mango World Cafe and Bar. Anytime we are in Cleveland we stop here for a meal, the food is excellent. As soon as we were seated Kris ordered a lemonade, they make it on the spot with fresh squeezed lemons and just the right amount of sugar. We knew what we were going to have before we even got here: the veggie quesadilla big plate, it comes with happy beans, grain of the day, Yucatan slaw and a grilled banana. The food arrived without delay, we divided it onto two plates and dug in. The quesadilla is loaded with sautéed veggies, the grain today is Jasmine rice and it is cooked perfectly, the Happy Beans are a red variety and quite tasty as was the slaw, the grilled banana is a sweet finish to the meal. Did I mention the fried tofu? Yum! We are just around the corner from the bed and breakfast, so we head back to relax before the evenings activities.

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Rested and ready to go we head downtown, tonight is the tree lighting and Winterfest. As we get closer to the activities the streets become increasingly busier with both automobile and pedestrian traffic. As we look for parking the fireworks show begins, before long we find ourselves standing street side with a wonderful view. The surrounding trees are strung with thousands of lights, high in the night sky fireworks burst into color, the crowd cheers, children laugh and the tiny dog near my feet looks for cover. When the finale has ended we decide to seek warmth in nearby historic buildings, Cleveland’s downtown has fantastic architecture.

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We follow the crowd to Tower City, once Cleveland’s train station, it is now a shopping mall. Fortunately the building has maintained its architectural integrity, it is stunning, ceilings are coffered and highly detailed. The place is packed, so we go over to the historic Renaissance Cleveland Hotel.…wow! Opened in 1918 this place is gorgeous! The lobby is grand and dripping with early 20th century finery, the place was jammed with people so we just got a quick look and moved on.

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Further on, we stopped in at the Arcade on Euclid, if you ever get to Cleveland, this is one place you shouldn’t miss seeing. Once inside we realized a wedding reception was taking place on the first floor, what a fantastic place to have it. Businesses were closed and just a few hotel guests lingered about as we quietly walked around. A beautifully decorated Christmas tree stood at the top of the stairway, lights were dimmed creating an elegant atmosphere. Even in the low light the fine Romanesque details of the building stand out, just stunning.

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We had been walking around downtown for a while now in 21 degree weather, our hands were cold and we were hungry. There’s a great little district on East 4th Street that has lots of restaurants and bars to choose from, so that was our destination.  Like the rest of downtown this district was all dressed up for the holidays, people were milling about coming and going from dinner or a show. We found ourselves in front of Saigon, the thought of Vietnamese food was appealing, so we went in. Feeling a bit overwhelmed by the enormous menu we asked our waiter for advice on ordering. He pointed out a few selections, we nodded our heads and that was that. First to arrive was Pho Tai (a sort of soup with rare beef) followed by Ga Xe (lettuce wrapped chicken) and for a main course Bun Xao Chay (vegetarian curry vermicelli). With all the food in front of us, it was clear we had over-ordered, but it sure was fun trying everything! The service was great and each dish tasty and unique.

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Walking back to the car we noticed a shop on the corner of 4th and Euclid called CLE Clothing; it was still open and busy with customers, so we went in to check it out. This is the store for all things Cleveland: t-shirts, hoodies, books, art, you name it. All kinds of goods showing pride in their home town. Appealing to both locals and visitors alike they were doing a brisk business tonight, after all the holiday shopping season had officially begun.

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Like Detroit, Cleveland has seen some tough times, but continues to reinvent and endure, c’mon, take a look.

On The Road To Cleveland……

11 Dec

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 There’s something really fun about traveling on Thanksgiving weekend as folks slip into holiday mode; towns are lit up with thousands of miniature lights, children line up to ask Santa Claus for that special gift, eggnog flows freely and Christmas carols become the music of choice. Through the years we have been as far north as Milwaukee and as far south as the Gulf, nobody celebrates the holidays with more enthusiasm than mid-westerners. We were due for a roadtrip, so we loaded up the Jeep and headed for Cleveland. When it comes to decorating for Christmas, this city goes all out. 

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By freeway you can make it from Detroit to Cleveland in just under three hours, but what fun is that? There is much to see and do along the way, for example, the Rutherford B Hayes Presidential Center in Fremont Ohio. Can’t say that we knew much of anything about our 19th President, funny how much more interesting history is to us now than back when we were in school, so we thought we’d stop in. The Hayes estate, named Spiegel Grove is an impressive 31 room mansion and sits adjacent to the Presidential Library and Museum. We arrived just in time for a tour. The home is quite  lovely, I was surprised by its size; the exterior is red brick, most notable is the wrap around veranda and rooftop lantern. Inside, the home remains just as it was when Rutherford and Lucy lived there; books, furniture, paintings, light fixtures, even dishes give you a peek into the private life of the man who was an attorney, served in the military, was a US Congressman, served 3 terms as the Governor of Ohio and one term as President of the United States.

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Rutherford was born about two months after his father passed away, he was raised by his mother and her bachelor brother Sardis Birchard.  Uncle Sardis was himself an attorney, he had the means to provide Rutherford a top-notch education, which included Harvard Law School. Uncle Sardis built his home in Fremont in 1859, he made it large enough for Rutherford and his young family to spend their summers in northern Ohio. Through the years as the family grew so did the home. It was here at Spiegel Grove that Rutherford lived when he was elected as President and the place he returned to after his years in the White House. After his presidency there was a huge addition including a library, reception room, and even indoor plumbing (Lucy must have been so happy!). A gorgeous 4-story walnut and butternut staircase was added, it leads all the way up to the rooftop lantern where you are treated to a 360 degree view of the property. It’s fascinating to see all of their things, and amazing that they all remained in the home. Much of the home has been restored; woodwork is handsome, wallpapers are covered with busy patterns so popular at the time, and lots of color. Everything in the home is accessible to visitors; there are no ropes or plastic runners, unfortunately photos are not allowed to be taken in the home,ugh. Gifts given to Rutherford during his political years are all on view, he brought back a painting of himself that was so large they had to raise the ceiling in the library. Rutherford and Lucy raised 8 children in the home, both passed away at home and are buried on the grounds. Fortunately the home stayed in the family, eventually the Hayes children deeded Spiegel Grove and all of its holdings to the state of Ohio. In 1912 ground was broken for the first presidential library and museum in the country, it opened in 1916 and is just a short walk from the estate.

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The museum is two floors of exhibit galleries and a research library. Here just under 2,000 artifacts are on permanent display, most enclosed in glass cases. They say they have 19,000 artifacts that tell about Rutherford, his family and Ohio history. He was highly respected as a leader and as a man; throughout his life he was concerned with minorities and the poor. He believed all people deserved an education and with it they could achieve better lives. He was active in both local and veterans affairs, they say his policies made business and industry stronger. We also learned Mrs. Hayes was the first president’s wife to be called the “First Lady”, she was also the first wife of a president to graduate from college. President Hayes began the “Easter Egg Roll” in 1878, which still continues today. This was such a great find, I’m so glad we came.

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As usual we were running way behind, we needed to stop for lunch. Luckily we were not far from the Quarry Hill Winery in Berlin Heights. Kris is very familiar with this part of the state and he knows a great route. The temperature had continued to drop and it was now snowing, fitting for the day after Thanksgiving. The wine bar at Quarry Hill sits smack dab in the middle of the vineyard and orchards,  surrounded in glass a fireplace anchors the back wall, there’s not a bad view to be found. It was mid-afternoon so the only food available was a meat and a cheese plate, which was ok with us, add a glass of apple wine and we’re happy. As we sat and ate in the large open room people began to drift in. We made quick work of finishing off the chunks of cheese, baguette, olives and meat, but lingered over the wine. The snow was coming down harder, it was time to continue our journey eastward. The miles pass quickly through the countryside; roads wind around curves and rise and fall over hillsides, every once in a while we pass a home decked out in Christmas attire.

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At last we arrived in Cleveland, first stop: Stone Gables Bed and Breakfast to check in, unload and freshen up. On our last visit we were impressed with the revitalization going on in the Gordon Square Arts District, Kris had checked the movie listings and found Life of Pi was playing at the Capitol Theatre, we had a plan….The schedule worked perfectly, we could have dinner first, then catch the movie (we might have snuck in an ice cream at Sweet Moses….). Detroit St has lots of places to choose from, we had heard good things about LUXE, with any luck we could get in. To our delight there was a high-top table open right in front of the window, we took our seats and scanned the menu as our waiter brought us water and told us the specials of the night. The selection includes something for everyone; we settled on pizza and salad. As we waited for our dinner to arrive, facing the window I noticed all the quotes posted on the glass; from the Dalai Lama and Lord Byron to Alfred Tennyson and Louis Armstrong their words give us food for thought. My reading is interrupted by laughter from a nearby table, I turn and take in the room for the first time; crystal chandeliers hang above, walls are exposed brick, a large antique Art Deco bar leans against the right side wall. Tables are filled with large groups tonight, people are laughing and making toasts, yes, the holidays are here. Our food arrives, we dig right in. The salad is a mix of butter lettuce, chick peas, olives and pickled onion topped with roasted cauliflower and drizzled with a raisin-sherry vinaigrette, it’s wonderful. The De-LUXE pizza is topped with a roasted red pepper sauce, chorizo, black olives, spinach and Manchego cheese, a perfect combination of salty and spicy, yum!

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The Capitol Theatre is a few blocks down from the restaurant, snow continues to fall but fails to accumulate, it’s cold, colder than it’s been in a long time. Detroit St. sparkles with the glow of Christmas lights, storefronts are decked out in holiday splendor. We arrive at the theatre and purchase tickets for The Life of Pi, the cashier hands us our 3-D glasses. We enter the main theatre and have a look around; built in 1923 and vacant for over 20 years, it has recently been restored and upgraded to all digital projection and 3-D capabilities. Once one big space, it is now divided into 3, the original main floor being the largest and most decorative. The ceiling is very ornate, the eclectic chandelier hangs from a large medallion in the center, decorative patterns please the eyes, along each side curtains hang in arches separated by flat plaster columns. What was once home to vaudeville stage shows now welcomes 21st century movie-goers. The lights dim, after the coming attractions have finished we all don our funky glasses and get ready for the main attraction. Time to relax.

DETROIT: One Woodward Ave

4 Dec

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 With the recent news of  Dan Gilbert’s Rock Ventures purchasing yet another Detroit landmark, the One Woodward building, we thought you might like to get a closer look.  Residing on the corner of Woodward Ave and Jefferson, this has long been a favorite building of mine. Back in 2010 Kris and I had the enormous pleasure of touring the building with the Detroit Area Art Deco Society, it was fabulous! We don’t normally feature something we did in the past, since there’s little chance we’ll have the opportunity to get up to the former MichCon executive offices again (unless Dan drops us an invite) it’s time for a little trip back in time. C’mon, we’ll show you around. But first, a little history.

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Minoru Yamasaki was the design architect, built in 1963 this was his first skyscraper; in fact, it was this building that landed him the job of designing the World Trade Center Towers. Commissioned as the headquarters for the Michigan Consolidated Gas Company, it was to be an important building; from its prominent location at the foot of the Detroit river to the fact that it was the first high-rise to be constructed in Detroit in nearly 30 years, it would forever change the cityscape. The structure is 430 feet tall with 28 floors, floors 27 and 28 are entirely mechanical. The building is topped with a mechanical penthouse that includes four more floors, lighting incorporated into the top two stories distinguish the tower in the night skyline. From the time the building opened until the early 1980’s, the 26th floor was home to fine dining at “The Top of the Flame”, if you ever ate there, you never forgot it. Kris was lucky enough to have eaten there with his family. The building was known as the MichCon building until 1997, when it was renamed simply “One Woodward” referring to its address. Now, let’s have a look at the place…

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The building sits on a raised platform, the lobby walls are recessed, white marble columns create a loggia on all four sides; when I look at it, I think it looks like it is on stilts. The Jefferson Ave entrance is surrounded by lush gardens that were originally reflecting pools; Giacomo Manzu’s bronze sculpture Passo di Danza still greets pedestrians. The loggia floor is the same white marble that continues right into the building. The lobby is stunning; surrounded by 30 ft glass panels it is adorned only by a few planters and a fabulous reception desk; silver in color and circular in shape it is constructed using the same narrow hexagon type panels used throughout the building. Floors and walls the same pristine marble,the ceiling, simple coffered square panels with a recessed light. The feeling is light, airy, clean. Trim on windows and railings are stainless steel polished to the highest shine.

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Elevators are located in a short open hallway, doors are ornate in a brocade like pattern and silver-colored. We exit on the 25th floor, it is unoccupied, once home to the executive offices it is now all open space. We are free to wander at our leisure; we discover a white marble fireplace, doors matching the elevator doors, offices are paneled in beautiful teak-looking wood. The view from the President’s office stops us in our tracks, windows go from floor to ceiling, the panoramic view of the city is breathtaking. The windows appear to be narrow with the top and bottom of the openings meeting in an arch of sorts. That’s because the buildings exterior is made up of pre-cast concrete sections that frame the glass in 1 foot 11 inch sections; this look later became Yamasaki’s signature style. Windsor is directly in front of us and seemingly at arm’s length, Hart Plaza sits directly below, it’s a great perspective to see it from. Cobo Arena and the Ambassador Bridge are to our right and to the left I can just make out the Belle Isle bridge. We continue to wander the floor and find ourselves in an office facing Woodward and Campus Martius, the Compuware building resides in the distance. From this height patterns in the landscape become apparent, it is October, the lawn deep green and trees glow a golden-yellow as they enter into Autumn. Every window offers a slightly different scene, we look out at the upper section of the Penobscot and Guardian, the Spirit of Detroit looks quite small from this height, on the other hand the Renaissance Center with all of its towers looms large. 

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They say that currently the building is 60% occupied, but that number will grow as new workers move in. It is an exciting time for Detroit as it enters this new chapter; more and more people are working downtown and living downtown. New business are sprouting up all over to accommodate the influx of new life. Detroit seems to be coming into its own, again………….

DETROIT: The Amazing Guardian Building

29 Nov

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It was the 1920’s and America was roaring. The Great War was over, the United States was coming into its own. We were changing everything; we put the world on wheels and now we were altering the face of city skylines with the skyscraper. In Detroit buildings such as the Buhl, Book Tower, Fisher and Penobscot soared high towards the sky, in 1929 the Guardian Building joined them. Originally named the Union Trust Building, Wirt Rowland of Smith Hinchman and Grylls Associates was responsible for designing the structure, and what a grand job he did! The Guardian looks as good today as it did in 1929; home to a branch of Bank of America, Pure Detroit, a coffee shop, cafe and City of Detroit offices, hundreds of people come and go from the building each day, free tours are available too. Let us show you around.

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Located on Griswold Street in the Financial District, you can easily pick out the Guardian; while most buildings are made of limestone or granite, Wirt Roland chose a red-tan brick, I read that almost 2 million bricks were used to construct the 535 foot building. Be sure to spend some time taking in the exterior of the building; on either side of the main entrance Indian-like figures carved by Corrado Parducci represent safety and security, colorful tilework patterns enhance outdoor alcoves. Once inside be prepared to be awestruck, the lobby is magnificent. The vaulted ceiling is Rookwood tile from Cincinnati, colorful patterns in blue, green, yellow, red and gold dance across the space, floors are Italian Travertine and Belgian black marble, lower portions of the walls are Numidian marble and Mankato stone. It is here we meet up with our tour guide and Guardian Concierge Christopher; his enthusiasm for the building is apparent the moment he begins to tell us about it.  The building itself is an Art Deco masterpiece, keep in mind it was built as a banking institution. The Indian motif is carried on throughout the entire structure; we find symbols of security, fidelity, safety and progress. Notched arches line the length of the lobby, at the end of each elevator hall are majestic stained glass windows featuring elaborate Indians. Our guide points out splendid lanterns that MichCon had made from the original architectural drawings found when doing renovations. Elevator doors are fabulous; Christopher shows us the letters UT carved into the doors representing Union Trust. We hop on the elevator and go up.

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We stop on the executive floor; CEO’s, CFO’s and board members gathered here for important meetings, it’s very swanky. Beautiful wood lines the walls and floor of the outer area, inside the boardroom a huge conference table and chairs take up most of the space; walls are beautifully paneled, windows are tall and elongated and provide a picturesque view of downtown. Back in the elevator we stop when we reach the top floor: the Ballroom. The decor is reminiscent of the lobby; notched arches, bright colors, but here we get a panoramic view of the city and the river, wow! This time we ride the elevator back to the lobby, then head down the stairs to the safe.  As we descend the design becomes less intricate, but it is not without decoration; Flint Faience tiles add a splash of color. We arrive at the safe, all of us walk inside as Christopher explains how cash was stored in piles back in the day. As we exit we stop and examine the door, they didn’t kid around when it came to protecting money. A small room houses safe deposit boxes, I imagine wealthy ladies wearing hats and gloves making frequent trips here to retrieve their finest jewelry for special occasions. 

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At last we arrive at the Cathedral of Finance, now called the Retail Promenade, it is stunning! A decorative grill made of Monel metal separates the lobby from the cathedral, a Tiffany clock  graces each side of the grill, after many years of being dark it is once again illuminated, it is a true work of art. The main banking room was once lined with 80 teller cages, yes, you read that right, 80. The theme is Aztec design, the ceiling is hand painted in colors popular at the time including turquoise, and terracotta. Oils, acrylics and solid gold were used to achieve the look, it is amazing. The south wall embraces a giant map of Michigan; Michigania, the goddess of our state is placed in the center, symbols of mining, fishing, finance and auto manufacturing define commercial strengths of the time period, it is still in its original condition. Currently Bank of America continues the banking tradition of the space, who wouldn’t love to do their banking here?  There is just so much to look at, it’s hard to take it all in, as many times as we come here I always manage to notice something new. This is where the tour ends, we thanked Christopher for a most enjoyable time. We had a quick espresso drink at Rowland Cafe, you won’t find a coffee shop with a better view, before stopping in at Pure Detroit to check out their latest offerings. From Detroit themed t-shirts and Pewabic Pottery to original artwork and a vast selection of books, the shop is home to “all things Detroit”. Whether you’re visiting from out of town and looking for something uniquely Detroit to take home or a local looking for a way to show your pride in the city, you’ll find the perfect item here!

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We walked over to Woodward for lunch at Forans Grand Trunk Pub; in the mood for a great sandwich and a beautiful setting, it fit the bill perfectly. The building went up in 1879 and was known as the Traub Brothers Jewelry Building. In 1911 it was renovated and turned into the ticket office for the Grand Trunk Railway, the company’s Grand Trunk logo still graces the terracotta detailing on the front of the building. Inside they removed the second floor and installed a gothic style vaulted ceiling, the antique brass chandeliers are still hanging. The place has a definite sense of character, I can visualize folks lining up to buy their train tickets in this very space. The ticket office remained until 1934, in 1935 it was established as a bar and has been one ever since. We arrived after the lunch rush and took a table near the window, our waitress was quick to come over, take our drink order and offer us menus. Forans is well known for its commitment to the city and the state; they have 15 Michigan craft beers on tap and 100 more in bottles, they take the”Buy Local” trend seriously. The menu is filled with delicious things, they even  have some of the old Eph McNally’s sandwiches (oh, how we miss that place!). It has been too long since our last Sabrina Duncan; turkey breast, dill havarti cheese, lettuce, tomato, mayo and honey mustard on an onion roll…..it was even better than I remembered. A side salad with their homemade maurice dressing and a pile of Better Made wavy chips completed our meal, it was delicious! Did I mention they serve Faygo? Yep, regular flavors come in a glass bottle, diet in cans, you just can’t beat a Faygo Root Beer. 

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OAKLAND COUNTY: Backroads & More….

21 Nov

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 Not yet ready to relinquish all that is autumn we decided to enjoy a scenic drive on a mild November Sunday. We gassed up one of the vintage cars and headed to Rochester, then northwest on Orion Rd, a real beauty with its twists and turns. Our first stop was the Goodison Cider Mill; we parked on the side, the aroma of just fried donuts greeting us as we exited the car. The building sports a fresh coat of blue paint, windows are trimmed in white. Inside we are face to face with all of the standard cider mill offerings; bags of Michigan apples, jars of jam and apple butter, gallons of cider, and an entire glass case filled with donuts, oh, and the specialty of the house: pistachio bread. Kris and I only had one thing on our minds; cider and donuts. I can’t resist the plain old cake style donut, here the blueberry are Kris’s favorite; a glass of cider and we were set. We sat on a bench under the partly sunny sky and ate our goodies, then it was back in the car headed west.

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Up the road slightly we hung a left on Clarkston Rd, the road covers rolling hills and passes several picturesque lakes; leaves are smoldering in large piles, they fill the air with their unmistakable scent. We arrive in downtown Clarkston, a charming village with quaint shops and fantastic restaurants (one of my favorite combinations). We park the car and walk down Main Street, we are heading up the hill to Clarkston Union. We arrive just before 3pm, brunch is ending, the dinner menu starts at 3, so we wait to order. The Lions are on TV, as 3:00 arrives the door continues to open as hungry patrons fill the seats. The building was originally a church, the stained glass window in the front floods the space in colored light, church pews provide ample seating. The menu is filled with really good, hearty dishes, they were known for their Mac & Cheese before it became trendy. We ordered a Plowshares plate and the Union Press of the day, so much good food and so delicious! The ingredients rotate for both selections; we were served salami, Roma tomatoes, red onion, white cheddar, carrot sticks, a baguette and fresh fruit on the Plowshares plate. I’m not exactly sure what was on the panini….roasted red peppers, maybe some artichokes, doesn’t matter, it was fantastic! We ate till we could eat no more.

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Next door is Union General Cupcakery, you can see where I’m going with this… We stepped inside to find a quaint little shop, the centerpiece being, of course, the display case loaded with cupcakes, cookies and dessert bars. Antique furniture fills the room, bookshelves are packed tightly with cookbooks and kitchen do-dads. Unable to decide on a cupcake flavor I continued to walk around the shop; kitchen goods give way to a gift shop stacked with unique and funky goods. After browsing through books, smelling candles, and trying on jewelry I was ready to make my decision. Kris knows what he likes, so the caramel pecan bar caught his eye immediately, the carrot cake cupcake won me over with its tasty batter and heavenly cream cheese frosting. They also serve ice cream, coffee drinks and a variety of hot chocolates, so remember to save room. Barely able to move we walked slowly back to the car; this is definitely one of those towns  worth the drive. Spend the day window shopping, have a great meal and check out the lovely homes.

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Back in the car we made our way to White Lake Rd and continued west through the wooded landscape to Indian Springs Metropark. The Environmental Discovery Center has wonderful exhibits and a cool underwater pond viewing room, that’s where we started. We descend the stairs, the reflection from the water creating a pattern on the walls and floor, we come to the tunnel, we are surrounded on three sides by water, albeit cloudy, for a cool yet creepy effect. Above, a layer of sand and algae lay on the glass, we proceed further into the dome area; fish swim near the bottom, sunlight plays upon the water, we have the area to ourselves. I sit on the bench and look out across the pond, Kris snaps photos of fish as they swim past, it is an interesting perspective of pond life. Down a narrow hall, a series of windows grants us more views, pieces of wood appear to be fuzzy with the growth of underwater vegetation, some resemble sea monsters…… Back upstairs we follow the displays and learn about our surroundings; a giant cattail shoots up from a glass basin mimicking wetlands, an over-sized grasshopper clings to a stem as a giant frog leaps toward a lily pad. We step out onto the deck and gaze at the pond, this time from outdoors. We follow the gravel trail and stop to read the informative signs along the way, all the while keeping an eye open for rattlesnakes, seriously….at last circling the pond. Surrounded by beautiful backroads this 2,200 acre park has plenty to offer, give it a look.

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DETROIT: Gallery Hopping Eastern Market

16 Nov

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Things are moving quickly in Detroit these days; Pop-up businesses are popping up all over. Temporary shops open in a building or space that has been vacant or forgotten; the lease is short-term anywhere from a day to a month; restaurants, bakeries and retail all give it a go. Today we are checking out Cafe Con Leche del Este in the Lafayette Park neighborhood. Being regular patrons of Cafe con Leche in southwest Detroit, we were anxious to see what Jordi’s new space had to offer. We are big fans of the architecture of the neighborhood; designed by Mies van der Rohe in the early 1960’s, it was an urban renewal project consisting of townhouses, highrises and a shopping center adjacent to a 19 acre public park. Some storefronts in the shopping center have been vacant for years; densely populated, area residents have been longing for a local coffee shop where they could grab their morning cup of joe, or hang out with friends over a cubano. The project came together with a combined effort from the community; the furniture was donated by neighbors and friends, the bold yellow curtain dividing the space was made by the local knitting club, someone even loaned the large fluorescent MIES sign that hangs in the front window. The space is fabulous; the front wall, all glass. Inside the walls are painted charcoal grey, bursts of color in orange and yellow bring the place to life. The coffee menu has something for everyone from a basic pour-over to specialty drinks. We ordered at the counter and then took a look around. The furniture is ultra cool modern, the artwork Spanish-influenced, the coffee, delicious! Kris was feeling daring so he chose La Lumbre del Diablo (the devil’s fire), made with espresso, Habanero, cinnamon, honey and milk it is excellent, not too much heat, and an excellent combination of flavors. I had the Don Bigote, espresso, chipolte, chocolate and milk, I can’t wait to have another! The shop is only here till December 8th, so stop by soon.

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In the mood to do a little browsing, we drove north and landed in Eastern Market. Our first stop was Red Bull House of Art on Winder street, we were there for the Detroit Design Fest, but wanted to have another look without the crowds. A chalkboard on the sidewalk informs us the gallery is open, a low metal sign introduces us to the House of Art, the windowless steel door is imposing. Inside, the main floor is studio space for the next eight artists who will be featured in the upcoming exhibit. We walk around the studios, turpentine scents the air. The work of each artist is vastly different, incomplete pieces are intriguing. We descend the stairs to the gallery, the artwork a stark contrast to the bright white walls.  I remember many of the pieces, others I am seeing for the first time; panels featuring the name and background of each artist hang on the wall, benches encourage you to sit and ponder. We took one more look around before heading out, looking forward to the next exhibit.

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Over on the service drive of the Fisher Freeway is a collective of arts designers and musicians called Michigan-Artisans. You may recognize the building, it was the home of Germack for many, many years before they moved to Russell St. The gallery features high quality products from Michigan artists; photography, jewelry, clothing, glass, you name it, music too. The boutique was busy with shoppers, though I hate to admit it, the holidays will be here before we know it. The selection of items is huge, prices are good and range from a few dollars to a few hundred. Displays are eye-pleasing and draw you from one to the other. Many objects feature the mitten state; bags and purses are decorated with the upper and lower peninsulas, T-shirts feature local sayings, the Detroit skyline graces multiple pieces. 

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Deeper into the market district is Signal-Return Press on Division Street, make it a point to stop in. The store is a combination retail store and workshop featuring traditional (old-fashioned) forms of printing. We used to come to this building when it was the Johanson-Charles Gallery, it has undergone an extensive renovation leaving the space bright and airy; structural beams are a sunny yellow, giving the white ceiling and walls a warm glow. House printed posters hang everywhere, they are gorgeous, there is no mistaking this for some laser-printed image. Antique-looking hand-crank presses rest in the open workshop area, we ask permission to get a closer look, they remind us of something we have seen in Greenfield Village or other historical museums. Yet, here they are rolling out beautiful modern images created with letterpress and typesetting techniques, all done by young people! Posters and cards are  for sale, or take a workshop and make your own. 

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We seem to be meandering from district to district, we find ourselves in Greektown with growling stomachs. We heard a new restaurant was opening; we’re in luck, a front row parking space and an open sign. Somehow, over the years, Greek restaurants have become the minority in what was once an entirely Grecian area, Santorini  is bringing  Greece back in a beautiful way. The former Mosiac has undergone a complete make-over; a pair of statues flank the entrance, once inside we find ourselves on what appears to be the deck of a yacht. The floors are polished hardwood, brick walls are white-washed, scenes straight out of Santorini make us feel we are sailing past enchanted villages on the island, it’s so pretty. The menu stretches from traditional to more daring Greek dishes, if you can’t pronounce it, just point. We went the appetizer route and ordered several dishes; yes, we had the flaming cheese, and you know what? It was excellent. In fact, everything we had was, from the bread to the vegetarian grape leaves. It’s good to see some Greek back in Greektown.

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DETROIT: DIA, Friday Night Live !

11 Nov

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It’s no secret that Detroit has one of the finest art museums in the country, but did you know the DIA is open every Friday until 10 pm? They call it Friday Night Live; a combination of art, music, guided tours, drawing and craft classes, the vibe is casual and fun. There’s something different happening each week. All activities are included in the price of admission, if you live in Wayne, Oakland or Macomb counties, it’s FREE! So what are you waiting for……….

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It is the Friday before Halloween, the front of the Beaux-arts building is specially lit in colored lights. Inside it is darker than usual, we pass a family dressed in Halloween costumes, we check in at the members desk and get the low-down on the evenings activities. We proceed up the stairs to the Great Hall, the giant circular chandeliers glow dimly, a laser light show is being projected on the right-hand wall. The wall to the left is lined with glass cases filled with William Randolph Hearst’s Armor collection, tonight they look spooky. There are special tours going on, sort of a scavenger hunt, people hold lists and point. The grand space has a completely different look and feeling; we notice fine details in the architecture and decor we have previously overlooked. We proceed to other galleries, we notice two young girls who appear to be sleep-walking, suddenly they drop to the floor and sleep.  I seem to be more fascinated by the building than the art tonight, faces carved in stone that once seemed harmless now look menacing, I notice beautiful sconces lit by a cluster of globe shaped bulbs, the luster of pewabic tile glazes come to life. Further on we encounter more sleep walkers, these carry pillows and blankets, soon they lie down on the floor, they look quite comfortable. Easels are set up randomly to encourage visitors to try out their drawing skills, young and old give it a whirl. I check the time, we have to get moving, the performance is about to start.

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The show is taking place in the auditorium of theDetroit Film Theatre, the stunning 1,150 seat theater was designed by C. Howard Crane ( also designed Fox Theatre, Orchestra Hall, Opera House and State Theatre, to name a few) the Aerial Angels are getting ready to perform. Streams of people are filing in, we find good seats, before long the lights dim. The stage is oddly lit, the music a bit peculiar, the atmosphere is a bit creepy, after all it is the season for the strange and unusual. The only male in the cast takes center stage and begins to juggle, he’s good; the number of items increases, so does the difficulty, it’s fascinating to watch. Other cast members appear on stage, a woman mesmerizes us with her hula-hoop skills, how do they do that? The music changes with each new act, it is a continuous stream of captivating tricks and acrobatics. Three women begin to climb the aerial silks that hang from the ceiling, they maneuver up and down the long flowing silk, they move gracefully to the music. When they finish the mood becomes serious, a female dressed in heels and a long coat appears, and she’s carrying a whip! Her heels click as she moves across the floor cracking her whip, the sole man reappears wearing shorts and holding a newspaper, hhhmmm…….Hesitantly the guy extends his arms holding the paper out in front, Crack! The paper is now cut in two; the procedure continues until the paper is a smidgen of what it once was, no blood was shed. The show is like a dark, edgy version of a Cirque troupe, the finale consists of juggling many large, sharp knives. We are enthralled, enchanted, bewitched. 

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We decided to end our evening with a nightcap at the Motor Bar inside the Book-Cadillac Hotel on Washington Blvd. The building is incredible; designed by (you think I’m going to say Albert Kahn, but I am not!) Louis Kamper in the Italian Renaissance style, it opened in 1924 as the tallest hotel in the world at 33 floors. The hotel has a rich history, including guests such as Presidents Hoover, Truman, Eisenhower, Kennedy and Reagan, Frank Sinatra stayed here too. The hotel closed in 1984 and was sold off in 1986. After a $200 million restoration the building was brought back to life as the Westin Book-Cadillac, a truly amazing feat! We head up the stairs to Motor Bar, the rectangular space is just lovely; modern chandeliers hang from plaster ceiling medallions, a series of huge windows line one wall, columns with richly ornate capitals separate the windows. Cozy seating areas line the perimeter of the room while larger tables are placed in the middle. We order drinks at the bar, a Cabernet Sauvignon for myself and a Whiskey and Coke for Kris. The room is warm and inviting, we take our drinks to a seating area by a window, they have a good crowd tonight. There’s a character to an old building you just don’t get in new construction, it’s like the walls themselves have absorbed the past. The drinks were wonderful, as was the atmosphere.

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