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All Aboard! Destination Holly

13 Mar

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The Village of Holly is located in the northwest corner of Oakland County. Primarily known for the Michigan Renaissance festival and the Annual Dickens festival, this town has plenty to offer year-round. Saginaw Street is the main street through the village, and what a charming one it is; Victorian-style red brick buildings line the sidewalk,  indeed the city looks straight out of Dickens. The town’s personality has changed throughout the years; good things are happening, new businesses are moving in and people are coming to Holly to shop, eat and have a good time.

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The Detroit Model Railroad Club is located in the old theater on Saginaw, they were having an open house so we thought we’d check it out. Wow, what an amazing set-up! The railroad is 1/4″ to the foot, referred to as “0” scale among railroaders. In layman terms that means that the model of a 40 foot long boxcar will be 10 inches long. The amazing display depicts the fictitious Detroit Union Railroad, a freelance double track line running from Detroit to Dorrance MI. The detail is captivating; a downtown complete with hotel, gas station and train station. Tiny figures wait for long silver passenger trains,  others stroll past minuscule buildings. Vintage passenger cars, buses and taxi’s are at the ready to take the townsfolk where they need to go. Mini street lamps and billboards complete the scene. Trains travel from the city to the country and into the mountains, I counted four levels of tracks. The scenery is beautiful; bridges cross over a river, tunnels cut through the jagged rocks. Signs of life in the country include cabins, wells with diminutive red pumps and horses. You have to look closely, but there is something going on everywhere; a truck that lost a load of tires, policemen chasing down a bad guy. And of course, the trains! It’s very relaxing to watch their travel, notice how they slow down as they go up in elevation, they even sound cool. Check their website for open house dates.

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We stepped outside and headed south towards more shops and restaurants. We ducked into the boutique right on the corner called My Sweet Holly, in addition to home goods they have a large selection of Made In Detroit merchandise. A few doors down is one of the newer stores called Great Lakes Marketplace. A Made In Michigan grocery store featuring; Guernsey Ice Cream, Sanders, American Spoon, Cherry Republic, and loads of other food products, both big name and independents, native to the mitten state. When we came in the door a cheerful woman was handing out samples of her homemade candy, the dark chocolate espresso crunch was to die for! (I couldn’t leave the store without buying some….) Up front you can order an espresso drink or a double dip of your favorite ice cream. It was cool to see so many locally produced food items in one place. I am told beer and wine will be stocked soon! At the back of the store is a hallway connecting to the Great Lakes Artisan Village. What a marvelous find! Here you can purchase artwork crafted by Michigan artists, often using a Michigan product. They have a little bit of everything here; gorgeous jewelry, funky birdhouses, watercolor paintings and folk-art. A nice selection of books written by Michigan authors, intricate woodwork and sculptures for indoors or out are found throughout the space. If you’re looking for something unique, chances are you’ll find something here. The back of the store has been turned into a mini theater; on weekends they offer Movies In The Village featuring silver screen classics. What a fun idea! Most of the shops interiors retain their historic charm; some have exposed brick walls and wooden floors, most have tin ceilings, it really adds character.

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 We crossed Saginaw St to Bittersweet Cafe to catch some lunch. We had become quite hungry from shopping and staring at all the different food products at the marketplace. As we looked over the menu it was easy to be distracted by plates of mouth-watering food passing by. Finally a decision was made; the Vintage Pastrami sandwich and a Maurice Salad. The restaurant has classic Victorian appeal, again complete with an ornate tin ceiling. Up by the register is a glass case filled with scrumptious looking desserts. Passerby’s stop in for a coffee to go and linger over the selection. Our food arrived; the salad was a very generous size. Mixed greens with chopped turkey, ham and swiss, I liked the addition of black olives. The dressing was homemade and excellent. The sandwich was served on grilled pumpernickel bread; two slices filled with thinly sliced pastrami, swiss cheese, red onion and pepperoncini topped off with a creamy horseradish sauce, yum! We enjoyed our time in Holly and are already planning a return trip to visit their array of antique shops and other stores. I just may have to have more of that dark chocolate too….

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Next time you’re in the mood to visit a quaint little town with pretty streetscapes, good restaurants, and great shopping, head on over to Holly.

DETROIT: Midtown Art

3 Mar

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With no real plan for the day we headed downtown, we know we can count on the city to provide us with interesting things to see and do. The Scarab Club hosted an opening reception the night before, so we thought it would be fun to see the latest exhibit. Located across John R from the DIA, the Scarab Club has been at this location since 1928. The structure itself is a combination of Italian Renaissance Revival and Arts and Crafts; dark brick, leaded glass windows, and painted tiles make for an attractive exterior. The entrance is on Farnsworth, once inside you go up a short flight of stairs to the first floor. This is the main exhibit space; stark white walls and ceiling are warmed by the hardwood floor, captivating art work hangs on the walls. This area hosts changing exhibits throughout the year. Up another flight of stairs to the second level lounge area. Though the space is large it feels cozy; dark wood walls and floors,  triple light fixtures give the room a golden glow. A large fireplace rests at the far end of the room with seating arranged  nearby. The most interesting feature of the room are the ceiling beams. Large wooden beams are decoratively painted referencing events that have taken place at the club. The sides of the wood are covered in signatures of club members, this tradition began in 1932 when Diego Rivera signed his name. Norman Rockwell followed in 1946, they are joined by many other noteworthy names such as: Elmore Leonard, Eliel Sarrinen, George Booth, Marshall Fredericks and Isamu Noguchi. Along with thought provoking art, the building itself is worth a visit; I love the sound of the creaking stairs as I step from level to level. The ceilings at the top of the stairs are decoratively painted in rich colors with gold leaf; gorgeous. Artist studios occupy the third floor, occasionally they are open to the public. The club hosts exhibitions, workshops and events for artists and art lovers alike.

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Just a short walk away is the College for Creative Studies’ Center Galleries, located inside the Manoogian Visual Resource Center. Here you will find art both traditional and cutting edge. Displays start as soon as you come in the door, the current exhibit is divided into different mediums: Glass, Sculpture, Illustration and Painting. The talent level is staggering, which is part of the reason the art scene in Detroit is so lively. The cool thing about this gallery is it really gives you a sense of what is going on in the world; from car design and furniture to new ways to package things, it’s like looking into the future.

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For the lunch portion of the day we continued the gallery theme and ate at Cass Cafe. A long-time neighborhood fixture, having a meal or a drink at Cass is like sitting in the center of an art gallery with table service. Exhibits change routinely and feature everything from local to nationally known artists. The front section of the restaurant offers seating at round multicolored tables with vintage style chairs, giving it a retro feel. A stairway leads to an upper level reserved for special events. The menu runs the gamut  from Asian chicken wings and a hummus plate to vegetarian lasagna and an Ahi Tuna steak. The crowd varies from Wayne State students to hipsters and suburbanites. Ordering was easy, I love the lentil walnut burger, paired with a large salad it’s enough for two. They make their own “veggie” burger here and it is way superior to store bought versions in flavor and texture, topped with some honey-mustard, delicious.

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The day was still young and I felt like doing a little shopping, fortunately a pair of unique boutiques reside just around the corner on W Canfield. City Bird has been around for just over two years now, the small space is packed tight with goodies from both local artists and designers and work from other Rust Belt cities. The variety is great; jewelry, clothing, bags, paper goods and accessories, many of them Detroit-themed. They even have a small section of vintage clothing. There’s something new each time I come in, so I always look forward to stopping by.

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Right next door is NEST, owned and operated by the same siblings as City Bird, this shop focuses mainly on housewares. The small modern storefront has plenty of appeal; items are artfully placed about on tables and shelves making you want to stop and look at everything. Just inside the door are dozens of glass balls hanging in front of the window, each one contains a tiny plant creating a kind of air terrarium. Stacks of plates and glassware rest on shelves, they have linens and candles too. My favorite find of the day was an ice cube tray that produces ice in the shape of both Michigan peninsulas, the tray is even produced in Michigan using Michigan materials, I love it!  Andy and Emily Linn have done a wonderful job with both places, it’s nice to see independent retail coming back into Detroit. Next time you are looking for a unique gift or just something for yourself be sure and visit.

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Day Trip: Toledo, Ohio

29 Feb

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If you live in Michigan and have traveled south, chances are you have been through Toledo. Most folks simply pass through on I-75, on their way to somewhere else. Today I’d like to give you just a few reasons why Toledo is a great destination itself.  We had driven past the Toledo-Lucas County Public Library on Michigan many times, the large Art Deco structure always catching our attention, we promised to come back one day with the specific purpose of visiting the building. Today was that day, what an incredible jewel it is!

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Toledo is nicknamed the “Glass City” and for good reason; many of the largest manufacturers of glass either began here or moved here from somewhere else. The city is the site of large supplies of natural gas and high silica content sandstone, two items necessary for glass manufacturing.  Toledo was home to innovation in all aspects of the glass industry, here are a few companies you may recognize: Owens-Corning, Libbey Glass, Libbey-Owens-Ford, Therma Tru. I tell you this because  glass is the highlight and major material used in the decor of the library and is simply amazing; plate glass, glass blocks, Thermolux and Vitrolite.  There are inlays and murals, pillars and columns, glass in vibrant colors and varying textures. It is something to be seen!  We entered the Central Court from the Michigan Street entrance, one look and I stopped in my tracks. The interior is a fantastic example of Art Deco design, in this case Vitrolite (an opaque, structural, flat glass wainscoting) covers the lower section of the walls in a beautiful suntan color with black accents. A continuous  mural six feet high surrounds the room below the second floor windows. The designs are inlaid into 3/8 ” thick slabs of gray Vitrolite made by the Libbey-Owens-Ford glass company. The murals represent fields of knowledge such as literature, languages, religion, arts and sciences. The floor is terrazzo, a wonderful mix of tans, browns and rust colors. Everything here is done in the Art Deco theme, light fixtures, desks, tables and windows. As Kris took pictures I stood there with my mouth hanging open trying to take it all in. A very nice librarian came over and talked with us a bit and handed me a brochure on the Vitrolite Murals (which came in very handy for writing this piece). With a look of satisfaction and a smile on her face, she directed us up to the Children’s library, now I know what the smile was for.

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We climbed the stairs to the Children’s library, as we came through the door we had entered a child’s literary paradise.  A spaceship complete with two green aliens hovers from ceiling among planets in varied size and color, the front end of a vintage car sticks out of a wall, books are arranged by theme in in various exhibits. We walked further, through an arrangement of desks with computers, here a  front end of a jeep provides seating for two, while sheep ride in the back, a large Cat In The Hat figure stands nearby as oversized toadstools invite you to have a seat. We passed through the final set of doorways in the room and found ourselves in the land of legendary fairy tales. Here the Vitrolite is jade green, the mosaics are brightly colored depicting the tales of Pecos Bill, Paul Bunyan, Pinocchio, Pied Piper, Rip Van Winkle and the like. Knotty Pine walls and shelves make the room warm and endearing, large stainless steel light fixtures remind you this place was built long ago. The subjects used in this room came from books selected by the librarians of the department.  The Toddler room connects through a small opening, here you will find nursery rhymes and fables; Three Little Kittens, Sing A Song Of Sixpence, Little Miss Muffet……you get the idea. The detail is astonishing, all sorts of glass in more than 80 different colors and types were used in these pictures. The library has undergone expansions and changes through the years, thankfully someone had the foresight to preserve these rare and unique treasures. As I mentioned, the library underwent a huge expansion, as you walk back down the stairway you are able to view the original backside of the building. Again architects were thoughtful and preserved the original building while seamlessly blending the new addition with the old structure. Take the time to study the details, wonderful deco accents are found everywhere. Original light fixtures had been removed and stored through the years and have now been reused as tables in a lounge area. The rare book room is actually new, but you’d never know it, it has the same classic Art Deco details as the rest of the library.

Click Here for a slideshow of this incredible building.

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Lunch time had arrived; when you are in Toledo, Tony Packo’s Cafe is the place to eat. If you are of an age to have watched the TV series M*A*S*H, you have probably heard of Tony Packo’s. In the show, as in real life, Jamie Farr who played Maxwell Klinger hails from Toledo, he often mentioned Tony Packo’s, sending curious viewers to the now famed restaurant. Sticking with our classic Toledo theme, we drove to the original location on Front and Consaul. This was a Hungarian neighborhood back in the day and Tony himself was a Hungarian American, he created the Hungarian hot dog back in 1932 and it was an instant hit. At lunchtime food is served cafeteria style, head to the counter, give your order, then pay at the register.  We each had one of the infamous chili dogs; a homemade Hungarian hot dog (think sausage here), smothered in Tony’s own homemade chili, finely diced onions and a squirt of mustard, I know, it sounds like an ordinary coney island, but it’s NOT. There are all kinds of combinations available, ours came with sides and a cup of chili, the hot German potato salad is my favorite; warm and vinegar based, the potatoes are tender, not mushy, with bits of bacon mixed in. Kris’s favorite are the paprikas dumplings with gravy. We sat at a table in a small section up a few stairs, we couldn’t wait to dig in. The food was delicious as always, the hot dogs have a taste all their own. As you sit in the restaurant you will notice the walls are covered in autographed hot dog buns, yes I did say autographed hot dog buns! Back in 1972 Burt Reynolds was in town, he was the first “big name” to eat at Packo’s, when he finished his meal he signed a bun and the tradition was born. Today hundreds of buns line the walls, from movies stars and politicians to musician,s the collection of celebrities is impressive. Packo’s serves up great food with a side of  kitsch.

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The Toledo Museum of Art resides on Monroe Street in Toledo’s  historic Old West End.  The museum was founded by glass maker Edward Drummond Libbey in 1901 and moved to its current location in 1912. The building is done in the Greek Revival style and is quite lovely, the front is surrounded by gardens that include numerous sculptures. The museum boasts an impressive collection; over 30,000 works of art in 45 galleries and is internationally recognized. Me, I just like coming here and wandering around. My very favorite piece is in the west wing; Monet’s Water Lilies, I could stare at this painting all day. There are so many things I like about the TMA,  in addition to paintings they have a wonderful array of other types of art;  elegant vases, a fantastic Art Noveau fireplace surround, gorgeous crystal chandeliers and outstanding sculptures. They have furniture and entire rooms brought over from Europe, contemporary art and a charming cafe. Galleries flow from one to the next, each eye-pleasing with a mix of  art forms  creating a distinct harmony. In the 1933 museum expansion the Peristyle concert hall was added; the 1710-seat theatre is the winter home to the Toledo Symphony and Opera.  As you would expect from the Glass City the TMA has an extensive collection of glass art, the collection is now housed in the Glass Pavilion across the street……. but we’ll save that and plenty more for another day.  Toledo is just an hour drive from Detroit and makes a great day trip.

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East Dearborn Delights !

16 Feb

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Dearborn Michigan has the largest population of Arab Americans in the United States, so it is no surprise the Arab American National Museum is also located here. This is the only museum in the United States solely devoted to Arab American history and culture. Located on Michigan Avenue in East Dearborn, tiles in various shades of blues and grey adorn the entrance, large glass windows span the the front at the street level. We found a parking space right in front, and went inside. The sun had come out, flooding the lobby in natural light, the space feels bright and airy. After paying our admission we entered the museum, once inside we were greeted by multiple exhibits stored in recessed Moorish archways. Each arch was trimmed in beautiful dark wood with ornate carvings and covered with glass, my favorite was the musical instruments. If you stand in the center of the room and look straight up you will discover a lovely dome painted with traditional designs, below the dome is a level of arched windows allowing more sunlight to spill in, followed by a level of gorgeous tiles. This area has a wonderful sense of serenity about it.

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Take the stairs to the second level, you will find yourself on a balcony overlooking the ground floor and an even better view of the museum dome. There are three main exhibits on this level beginning with “Coming To America”.  The Arab world is huge; it includes 22 different countries that reach from North Africa to West Asia.  This section tells personal stories of the brave souls who left their home in search of a better life; actual trunks, suitcases, handwritten letters, personal papers and photographs are on display. The museum is laid out in such a way that you travel through a sort of maze, I like it when exhibits are laid out in such a manner, it makes it simple to follow the time line and see things in their proper order. I can easily follow along, reading about the experiences of different people; how they arrived, where they settled, and the folks that helped them along the way. “Living In America” introduces us to Arab Americans themselves, many traditions live on through the generations, the exhibits here give you a peek at their lifestyle. “Making An Impact” shares the stories of Arab Americans whose contributions have influenced our way of life from inventions and academics to science and entertainment, athletes and labor leaders. Here is a list of Arab Americans you may recognize: Jamie Farr, Danny Thomas, Candice Lightner, Christa McAuliffe, Helen Thomas, Ralph Nader, Bobby Rahal and Kathy Najimy. You can even listen in on an amusing  phone call between LBJ & Joseph Hagar the Lebanese immigrant who founded the Haggar Clothing Company in Texas in 1926. It’s really fun to walk through and learn about the people who invented every day things like the typewriter.The gallery in the lower level hosts changing exhibits. This is a really nice museum and a wonderful introduction to the life of Arab Americans, it’s always fascinating to me to learn about another culture.

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There’s a restaurant in Dearborn that we absolutely love: Al-Ajami, located on Warren. The food here is amazing! We made it in for a late lunch, as soon as I walked in the door my mouth began to water. The smell of their homemade  bread baking in the wood burning oven permeates the air, revving up our appetite. The decor is contemporary; a mural depicting an evening desert scene is painted on the far wall. Booths run along the perimeter, and tables fill the main dining area. We were seated in a large booth, water arrived immediately. No need for a menu, we know what we want: A Vegetarian Combo and a Chicken Shawarma sandwich. The waiter brought out our drinks a basket of fresh from the oven pita bread and a platter of pickled vegetables. I don’t think you will find a better pita bread anywhere; warm soft pillows of tender bread, a scattering of sesame seed on top, so fragrant and delicious, we nibbled a bit, then the main meal arrived. Falafal, grape leaves, mounds of  hommous, taboluee and baba ghanouj, this is the good stuff, fresh and made from scratch. The Chicken in the shawarma is cut into flavorful chunks, pickles are added, it’s rolled up tight in pita and served with the best garlic sauce I’ve ever had. Warning: if you have the garlic sauce it’s best to invite the rest of your table to join you, or at the very least the people with whom you will be sharing a ride home with……. We ate till we could eat no more.

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No visit to Dearborn is complete without a trip to Shatila Bakery. Located just a little east on Warren, this is a dessert lovers paradise. As soon as you walk in the door you realize this is no ordinary bakery. The center of the building is a cafe; largePalm trees are wrapped in white lights,  the left wall is made into a water feature. One entire side is showcase after showcase filled with tantalizing treats. One section is traditional Mid-Eastern pastries; bakalava, bird nest, fingers and burma. Then there’s the French pastries……I have never seen a selection such as this; they are almost too pretty to eat…almost. What’s your fancy? Chocolate, kiwi, pistachio, strawberry or vanilla. They make cakes, mousse, tortes, tarts and cheesecakes. Are you more of an ice cream person? Not to worry, they have that too! This place is amazing, the pastries are delicious and the prices are unbelievably low.

Detroit Deco: Kresge & Cliff Bells

13 Feb

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On Thursday February 9th we attended the Preservation Wayne 2012 Membership Event at the former Kresge World Headquarters on Second and Cass Park. Preservation Wayne is changing their name to Preservation Detroit, with the new name there will be no mistaking what this organization is all about!  Their tours are already scheduled for the upcoming season, with more on the way. Check out their website for more information.

We never pass up an opportunity to get a look at another one of Detroit’s beautiful historic buildings.  First a little history: Sebastian S Kresge (SS Kresge) started out with two 5 & 10 Cent stores, in 1912 he incorporated the SS Kresge Corporation with 85 stores. By 1928 the company had outgrown its 18 story world headquarters at Adams and Park (now known as the Kales Building), so Sebastian hired Albert Kahn to design a larger headquarters. Opened in 1929, the result is a stunning limestone building; created in the shape of an E, the wings point away from the park, the 250,000 sq ft structure covers a city block. The central portion of the building is 5 1/2 stories tall, while the wings are only 4 stories, it is topped off with a copper-clad mansard roof and terracotta cresting, an excellent example of Art Deco design.

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The first Kmart was built in 1962, SS Kresge died in 1966 and then in 1972 the offices were moved to their new headquarters in Troy MI. The old building was donated to a vocational school by the name of the Detroit Institute of Technology. Now known as the Metropolitan Center for High Technology and owned by Wayne State University, the space is home to several small businesses and the Detroit Department of Water and Sewerage. Ok, fast forward to Thursday.

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We parked in the fenced in lot behind the building and entered through the back; the interior is granite, the floors were polished to a high shine. We found our way to the lobby crowded with people milling about the silent auction and food tables. Music played softly in the background, the light from the large chandelier played softly off the granite and multitude of brass accents. The lobby is just lovely; inlaid walnut paneling and architectural sculptures all done by Corrado Parducci are a feast for the eyes.The ceiling is divided into a series of squares, raised medallions are painted copper and gold, large windows overlook the park. Building tours were announced; the mass of attendees moved from the lobby to the hall waiting their turn to take the elevator up to the second floor. In the hallway intricate brass rails and banisters line the stairways, gorgeous Art Deco light fixtures decorate the ceilings, the elevator doors are amazing!

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 The executive offices are located on the second floor, Mr Kresge’s on one side, the VP’s on the other, we had the opportunity to see both. The offices are finished in stunning walnut paneling, in place of sharp corners you will find curves, the same goes for the hardwood floors. The ceilings are wet plaster, a raised design goes around the perimeter giving the room a formal feel, the original light fixtures still remain in Mr Kresge’s office. Next up to the fourth floor, this area was previously used as a laboratory complex, though it is unused at the present time there is hope a new tenant will lease the space. It was interesting to see the area, the best part was the wide array of Pewabic Tile, bright colors in pretty designs, it still remains. 

 

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It was still early, so we thought we’d end the evening with a nightcap at Cliff Bells, if you have never been put it on the top of your list of places to go. Located on Park Ave, the exterior is easily recognizable by the lovely wood and half-circle awning entrance. Once inside it is like walking onto the set of an old movie, some swank Art Deco club straight out of the 30’s, I almost expect to see Fred Astaire, Bing Crosby or Benny Goodman appear on stage. This place is incredible; triple cove ceilings, mahogany everywhere including the bar, the cool deco stage and large light fixtures hanging from chains providing just enough light to create the perfect atmosphere. One of the unique features I really love are the bar side tables, and ladies there is even a hook to hang your purse! A mural takes up the far wall, it fits the mood of the place perfectly, vintage photos and menus are enclosed in glass and hung on the wall to be enjoyed by patrons. 

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Cliff Bell’s was opened by John Clifford Bell in 1935, the building was designed by Albert Kahn and built by the Campau family. The club itself was designed by famed architect Charles Agree, and what a wonderful  job he did. Through the 1930’s, 40’s and 50’s Cliff Bell’s and the Town Pump Tavern anchored the ends of a lively district of pubs, clubs and burlesques up and down Park Ave, actually not too different from today (minus the burlesques), John ran the club until his retirement in 1958. Through the 70’s and 80’s it went through name changes including The Winery, La Cave, and AJ’s On The Park, until it closed permanently in 1985. In 2005 it was purchased by the current owners and a six-month restoration began. It re-opened as Cliff Bell’s and the rest as they say is history. 

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Recently discovered in a Detroit warehouse, the club is now home to a vintage Steinway Grand Piano that was purchased in 1960 by the City Of Detroit for Cobo Hall. After being stored for 25 years and 6 months of restoration it now sits on  stage. In addition to great Jazz  they also serves French-inspired cuisine for lunch, dinner and brunch, they offer great Happy Hour specials. If you are looking for an Ultra-Cool night on the town give Cliff Bell’s a try !

DETROIT: Shiver On The River

8 Feb

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Saturday February 4th was the Annual Shiver On The River on Belle Isle. Sponsored by the Friends of the Detroit River, Shiver celebrates Belle Isle and the incredible Detroit River. For this single afternoon each building on the island is open to the public, with the Casino building acting as the headquarters for the event.  When I say Casino, I do not mean a gambling type establishment, it is simply a place for public gatherings. This building  was designed by Albert Kahn in the Renaissance Revival style, built in 1907, it is constructed of brick and terracotta and is absolutely gorgeous. With its balcony, porches and numerous windows, it’s perfectly situated to enjoy a breeze off of the river.

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The interior is just lovely; beautiful terrazzo floors lead to a mosaic tile pattern in the center of the main floor with 1907 in the middle. If you stand here and look straight up you will notice a duplicate circular pattern of glass block in the floor above, and directly above that on the second floor is a gorgeous skylight, each level allowing sunlight in to brighten the space.  Take the marble stairs to the second floor to see the skylight, peer through the windows taking in the stunning view of the city in the distance. The building was filled with exhibits, displays, refreshments, arts and crafts and live entertainment. The casino is the best place to begin, you can get all the information on what is taking place in the other buildings on Belle Isle.

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Resting upon the bank of the Detroit River is the Belle Isle Boat Club. Built in 1902 in the Spanish Colonial style, the white stucco and red tile building is eye-catching. The building is owned by the city of Detroit, since 2001 the Detroit Boat Club Crew has undertaken the task of refurbishing the building.  The Detroit Boat Club was established in 1839 and is the oldest rowing club in North America. The interior of the building is in need of repair, at first you may be surprised by the peeling paint, crumbling plaster, and general disarray. Take a closer look; Beautiful walnut railings line the stairway with seahorses carved into the wood for the spindles, ornate plaster work decorates the walls and ceilings, the ballroom retains an air of elegance with its timber ceiling  adorned with stencils. It just so happened that on this Saturday the building was overflowing with activity;  Motown Madness, the Detroit Indoor Rowing Regatta was taking place, and there was standing room only! We came in on ground level, which is sort of the basement of the building; this is where they store the sculls. You can peek your head in and have a look at these long slender boats. I hope the term boat isn’t offensive…..They are really quite something to see. We took the stairs to the main level where all of the activity was going on, the ballroom had been transformed into an indoor rowing facility. Crowds of people were jammed in cheering on their teams, while the next group of competitors were warming up. The main floor is composed of several rooms, some private and cozy, others large enough for a banquet, all are being used by the Boat Club Crew. The second level has a balcony that overlooks the lobby and main entrance, along with an archway that allows you to view the ballroom from above. This is the best place to get a good look at the timber ceiling I told you about, it’s fabulous! There are more rooms for gatherings here and a really cool bar complete with anchor decor and swinging doors. The building is incredible, I can only imagine how opulent is was back in its heyday. The Boat Club continues to occupy and care for the building, they understand what a treasure it is.

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We had heard the Coast Guard was doing an Ice Rescue demonstration, so we drove over to the building. A couple of boats were sitting in the garage, so we checked them out before going inside; we did a quick walk through, then back out to watch the demonstration. A good size crowd had gathered; first a dummy was placed in the water, coast guard members boarded their boat, paddled out to the victim, then proceeded with the rescue. It was interesting to see the type of equipment they have and the difficulty involved in a water rescue, not to mention the cold. Of course it was a success, the crowd rewarded their effort with a round of applause.

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The Belle Isle Nature Zoo is home to family nature programs, locally found species of turtles, snakes, fish and birds and yes, the Fallow Deer. One of the things many people fondly remember about Belle Isle are the Fallow Deer that used to roam freely around the island. The 15 deer now call a one acre enclosure and barn home year round. I like to walk out and visit with them, if I’m lucky I get there at feeding time and have even had the pleasure of feeding them once. The nice day brought lots of folks out to the island and many of them came to see the deer. While a few seemed as interested in us as we were in them, most of them just seemed to be enjoying the sunshine and warm temperature. Back inside we made the loop around the nature center checking out the animals and exhibits. It was wonderful to see so many people having a good time, many discovering the center for the first time.

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I would have to say Shiver On The River 2012 was a great success, I have never seen so many people come out for the event. I suppose the fact that it wasn’t really shiver type weather helped. We tried to get into the aquarium, which re-opened for the day, but the line reached out of the building and down the sidewalk past the conservatory! I hope if it re-opens, people will continue to show it support, it is such an amazing building both inside and out. There is always something going on in Detroit, get out and join the fun!

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I have a secret to share with you: I had never been to American Coney Island on Lafayette before Saturday…..It seems we have always been a Lafayette  family. In the spirit of the new year and trying new things it was decided we would have lunch at American. Opened in 1917 by Constantine “Gust” Keros, the restaurant is still run by the Keros family. Decked out in red, white and blue, the place was bustling with patrons of all ages. Plates of coney islands and french fries were lined up on the counter, waiters skillfully deliver them to the tables. These days in addition to the traditional coney you can also have homemade spinach pie, Greek salads, soup and gyros, they even serve breakfast now. We stuck with the original coney island and a loose hamburger; they arrived lightning fast. As good of a coney as I have ever had, the natural casing dog had that nice crunch on the initial bite, a generous topping of chili, mustard and onion all held together in a steamed bun…Yum! We sat way up front at the table right in the window, the perfect spot to watch the activity indoors and out. American Coney Island has been featured in numerous articles and on the Food Network, guests include movie stars, politicians, musicians and sports stars, it has been a Detroit favorite for decades.

DETROIT: Ford Field Tour !

5 Feb

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Superbowl XLVI takes place in Indianapolis this Sunday February 5th, football is a popular topic this week. With that in mind we thought we’d take advantage of one of the behind-the-scenes tours of Ford Field. Walk Up Tours are available on Mondays and Fridays from January to July at 11am and 1pm. We parked in the structure next to Elwood Bar and Grill, walked across the street to the stadium and purchased our tickets.  When the group was fully assembled our lovely tour guide began, as she spoke it was apparent she was not a local. Though she was born across the pond as they say, she has been in Detroit for 16 years, and has been at Ford Field since the beginning. She is a wonderful hostess who possesses a wealth of information about the stadium.

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We began on street level; The 1920’s Hudson’s warehouse that was located on the stadium property now makes up the entire south wall of the structure, giving the stadium a bit of personality. The ground level is designated for restaurants, concessions and retail and plays homage to Detroit’s past. When J.L Hudson’s flagship store on Woodward was imploded in 1998 the bricks were recovered, cleaned and stored, then re-used to build Ford Field, how cool is that?  A 7-story atrium is within the warehouse, at the southeast corner is a glass wall which provides a panoramic view of the Detroit skyline, one of the building’s many unique features. I couldn’t believe how big this place is, there is a ton of natural light flowing in through immense skylights, large glass windows and open corners giving it a light open feeling, almost like being outdoors. There are 132 suites located on four levels, with one level of Club seating. There are eight varieties of suites seating from 8-30 people. We got to check out a medium to large one, Wow! The view: awesome, great amenities, and best of all the seats are Lincoln Navigator seats, really! Talk about comfort; Visteon manufactured all of the seats for the stadium. It’s so much fun to do this kind of tour; we saw Press Row, fancy lounge areas and the top-secret NFL Instant Replay room.  You overlook the entire field from up here, I have to admit I was in awe, it’s really a remarkable venue.

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Opened in 2002, it took 32 months to construct at a cost of $550 million, it seats 65,000 people. They say it has the best sight-lines of any football stadium in the US, with no obstructed views. Because of the long cold Detroit winters a permanent dome was the best design. The structural-steel supported dome with its two 18 ft wide concrete columns is quite a sight!  It’s interesting that the End Zones at Ford Field are East and West instead of the traditional North and South, special permission had to be granted from the NFL . The reason for that is sunlight can be a distraction to players, so precautions were taken to prevent that.

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Next we took an elevator down to what is the most coveted portion of the tour: the locker room and of course the FIELD. We got off the elevator in what is the original basement of the 1920’s warehouse, pretty amazing eh? First up: the Visitors locker room, nice, cherry wood makes up the actual lockers, indoor/outdoor carpet, nice; the Lions locker room, whoa, it’s huge. Same basic amenities just housed in a much bigger space, there are 11 locker rooms in all. Time to head out onto the field, there are actually two tunnels, one for the visitors, so of course it’s smaller, and one for the home team; that’s the one we took. The tunnels, made of concrete slope downward; the field is actually 40 ft below street level. There is an excitement as you walk through, then all at once you see it, a vast green expanse stretching out before you, the size of. …..well…… the size of a football field!  I looked around at my tour companions and every single one had a smile on their face. I don’t know what it is, but something about being in a place like this really brings out the kid in all of us.

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We have been wanting to try a new place that opened on Park behind the Fox called Hot Taco. With neighbors like Town Pump, Centaur, Park Bar, Bucharest Grill and Cliff Bells, this is quickly becoming a popular destination district. The diminutive, contemporary space offers a variety of tacos and burritos designed for hit and run dining. A chalkboard and paper menus on the counter describe your options; the fillings are made up of interesting combinations of flavors. They offer three different tacos on a 3 for $6.00 special; the Hot Taco Chicken, Pork and Chorizo, that sounded good to us. We started with an order of chips and asked for a sample of each of their available sauces: Salsa Verde, Chipotle Sour Cream and Mango Salsa. Tacos are wrapped individually in small sheets of foil, we ate ours sitting at a counter along the window overlooking Park.  We enjoyed all of them, I think the Chorizo was my favorite. Open from 11am to 2am you satisfy your taco craving almost anytime it strikes.

DETROIT: Lunch, Library & Leisure

2 Feb

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The first thing on our Friday agenda  was lunch at Supino Pizzeria in Eastern Market. We easily found street parking, and were relieved to find open seats available. This tiny space has a big reputation for excellent real Italian-style pizza. Order at the counter; selections are written on chalk boards. There are two varieties: Red, which comes with sauce and white which has no sauce. Choose from one of the many tempting selections such as The Supino with roasted garlic, black olives, chili oil, ricotta and mozzarella or the Bismark, it has fresh mozzarella, prosciutto, and egg. There’s the always delicious Margherita: fresh basil, fresh mozzarella, tomatoes and Parmigiano  or our choice Primavera: tomatoes, artichoke, eggplant, onion, spinach and mozzarella.  Or create your own, pies come in two sizes, 12″ or 18″.

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We took a seat at a small table in the window and waited for our food to arrive. The space is set up in community fashion; long wooden tables encourage strangers to sit side by side and engage in conversation. It has a laid back, funky, market feel to it; black and white checkered floor, upside down wash tubs serve as light fixtures, large pieces of art work hang on the walls. The clientele runs the gamut from suburbanite and business professional to locals. Our salad arrived quickly, topped with homemade Lemon-Basil Citroneette, it was very tasty. The pizza followed shortly, the hand stretched dough took on more of a free form shape as opposed to the typical circle. Cut into four large slices, the crust has an initial crunch followed by a chewy deliciousness that only comes from great dough. The toppings are proportioned nicely, just enough of everything. It was mid afternoon and although the dining area had cleared out, there was still a steady stream of folks picking up a slice or a whole pizza to go. It can be crazy busy on market days, but they are open during the week too. Next time you’re in the mood for some really good pizza think Supino!

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The Main branch of the Detroit Public Library was built in 1921. Designed by Cass Gilbert in the early Italian Renaissance Style, this place is gorgeous!  The original entrance of this large stone building rests below beautiful archways that overlook Woodward Avenue. Once inside you will notice the richly painted ornate ceiling, tall columns  and stairways, this lets you know that it is an important building. To the right is the HYPE Teen Center, individuals sit at available computers, as groups of youngsters gather together to play a video game or just catch up on the days events. Many areas of the library have been updated such as this space, without disturbing the original integrity of the architecture. In this room you’ll find a fireplace with a stunning tile surround and above that the Pictoral Map Of Michigan by Frederick J Wiley completed in 1923. Within the mural you will find the two Latin Mottoes: Si Quaeris Peninsulam Amoenam Circumspice and Tamen Fit Surculus Arbor, which translate into “If you seek a pleasant peninsula, look about you” the present motto of Michigan, and “The shoot at length becomes a tree” the motto of Michigan when still a territory.

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Next walk up to the third floor, pay attention to the detail in the ceiling on your way up; look carefully and you can find the seals of the City of Detroit, the state of Michigan, the United States and the University of Michigan, it’s absolutely amazing! On the third floor is Adam Strom Hall, here you will find another series of murals along the East and West walls. Whenever we come up here we like to take a seat on one of the benches to sit and stare for a while. Grand light fixtures strung from chains hang from the ceiling, stained glass windows are embellished with colorful scenes, ceiling panels glisten as light reflects off  gold-painted rosettes. It’s all very intricate and awe-inspiring. The murals tell the story from the days of Cadillac’s landing to the evolution of man’s mobility. Walk around the third floor hallways and take it all in, get a good look at the grand staircase murals. When your neck has had enough it’s time to move on and forward in time to the North and South wings that were added in 1963.

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Immediately you will recognize the clean lines and signature accents of Modern architecture. Here you will find large glass windows, brass railings in straight lines or circular patterns, wood panels and lush green plants. The space becomes bright, light and airy. In this section you will find the Burton Historical Collection. The emphasis here is placed on the history of Detroit and Michigan from the time of settlement in the 17th Century to the present. It also includes the Great Lakes area, New England, New France, the US and Canada.  The Burton collection is mind-boggling; from the Ernie Harwell Collection to the original manuscript of Huck Finn and Tom Sawyer Among The Indians to original pictures, drawings and manuscripts donated to the library from Laura Ingalls Wilder, you could spend an entire day right here. If you’re researching your family tree chances are you’ll find information here they house church records of baptisms, marriages, deaths, records from the military, immigration, obituaries and land records. All materials are reference and cannot leave the reading room, so plan on spending some time here when you visit. If you’re looking for rare books, first editions, vintage postcards, maps or photographs, they have it all.  Be sure and step outside to view the incredible mosaics above the Cass entrance.

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Time for a little coffee break. We did a post earlier in the year on Chez Zara located on Woodward near Campus Martius, since that time they have closed that location and opened a kiosk’s in the lobby of the Chase Tower.  I have always liked the looks of this building; designed by Albert Kahn and built in 1959 it is definitely a great example of Modern Design. Purchased by Dan Gilbert in April of 2011 the building has undergone some sprucing up.  We came in through the Woodward entrance, the contrast between the white of the walls and bright paint colors is really eye-catching, it works with all the natural sunlight streaming in the windows. The first floor is being transformed into a bit of a public space; casual seating areas are arranged around the perimeter, funky modern furniture invites you to sit and relax. A wonderful collection of automotive themed artwork from paintings to sculptures was on display. We went straight to Chez Zara to order our drinks, I stuck with their signature Nutella Latte; you just can’t go wrong with that choice, rich espresso with a hint of hazelnut and chocolate, creamy, warm and sweet goodness from first sip to last. Kris had straight espresso. We took our beverages over to a nearby seating area with a table and chairs overlooking the street scene. What a nice way to kick back and enjoy a little leisure time.  Chez Zara is open Monday thru Friday for your coffee drinking pleasure.

UPDATE: Chez Zara has closed permanently.

 

Grosse Pointe Theatre, BluFin, Sanders

21 Jan

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The Grosse Pointe Theatre is now in its 64th season. I saw my very first live theatre production right here when I was a young girl of 8, it was Fiddler On The Roof, and I have loved live theatre ever since. The Grosse Pointe War Memorial is the former home of the Russell Alger Jr family, it was built in 1910, and donated to the community in 1949 following the death of Russell.  The home was donated to serve as a memorial to Grosse Pointers who served their country and to be used as a center for charitable and educational purposes. Designed in the Italian Renaissance style by Charles Platt, the home is elegant, graceful and refined.  The addition of the Fries Auditorium and Crystal Ballroom gave the War Memorial more public space and versatility.  In 1961 Fries Auditorium became the permanent home of the Grosse Pointe Theatre.

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It just so happened that we saw an advertisement for Jekyll &Hyde The Musical; opening day was Sunday, one easy phone call reserved our tickets.  We took our seats, not knowing exactly what to expect from a musical version of the story. The auditorium was buzzing with the anticipation and excitement of opening night as many friends and family of the cast filled the seats. The lights dimmed, the curtain opened and we were off. The first musical number came quickly, the  orchestra sits in front of and below the stage,  don’t you just love live music? One by one we were introduced to the characters, the sets were extremely well done, the costumes, superb, and the performances……let me tell you, they were awesome! Everybody was wonderful, the Dr Jekyll/Mr Hyde character was intense, the two female leads have incredible voices, this was community theatre at its best. The story moved along effortlessly scene to scene, song to song, love, murder and betrayal, the tension building. There was one 15 minute intermission which gave us a chance to look around a little, upstairs in the Crystal Ballroom there was a Chamber Music concert going on. The room is enclosed in glass overlooking Lake St Clair, Oh What A View! The lights flashed in the lobby, our cue the second act was about to begin. We resumed our seats, and watched the conclusion of the show.  Jekyll & Hyde The Musical runs until January 28. If you can’t catch this show, be sure to click on the website for the upcoming season. The Grosse Pointe Theatre offers a great theatre experience in a lovely venue at a fair price. Check it out ! 

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Mack Ave is lined with restaurants, retail and service businesses, BluFin Sushi resides on Mack in Grosse Pointe Farms. This unassuming little storefront is identifiable by its thatch roofed awning and lionesque figures flanking the door. Inside is a cozy space with seating for 22, the focal point being the sushi counter. If you don’t like sushi, that’s ok, the menu also caters to seafood and meat-eaters, with several categories to choose from such as appetizers and sliders. It was difficult to choose; we had selected off the regular menu only to see the specials board afterward. One quick chat with the sushi chef, and we were all set. We had four different rolls, besides the cucumber/avocado roll, we don’t know the names of the others, as we had let the chef decide for us. The platter arrived and we immediately dug in, each roll being different in flavors and textures, they were all delicious. We’d go as far as to say it was some of the best sushi we had ever eaten. This is not the place to go when you have a big group, but for a quiet night out it’s perfect.

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If you grew up in Detroit you have surely heard of Sanders; for many, the first thing that comes to mind is their delectable Hot Fudge Cream Puff. Since 1875 Fred Sanders genius of making candy and fudge toppings have brought smiles to millions of faces. His original retail shop was located in downtown Detroit, in addition to the fountain service they also made light lunches. At its peak Sanders ran 57 stores in the metro area. I guess like many things the popularity ran its course and the stores began to disappear. Over the last decade there has been a bit of a resurgence and Sanders stores have begun to re-appear (lucky for us!) As a matter of fact there is a Sanders on Kercheval in The Village of Grosse Pointe; it seemed the perfect way to cap off a great afternoon. We already knew what we were getting, a Pecan Titan  with Butter Pecan Ice cream: 2 scoops of ice cream topped generously with hot fudge, hot caramel, and toasted pecans….so good! This retail store carries a full line of Sanders candy, toppings and baked goods, doesn’t a piece of Bumpy Cake sound good right about now? We polished off our sundae and glasses of water, content as could be. There are several stores throughout the metro area again, Sanders is a true Detroit original.

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DETROIT: Dakota Inn Rathskeller, The Redford Theatre

6 Jan

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It was the weekend before Christmas, It’s A Wonderful Life was playing at the Historic Redford Theatre; old theatre, old movie, we had to go somewhere old for dinner. The Dakota Inn Rathskeller fit the bill perfectly. Opened by Karl Kurz in 1933 the Dakota Inn exudes Bavarian charm; servers wear traditional German-style clothing, dark wood paneling and furniture combined with stone block walls, wrought iron and German style chandeliers give this place an old-world feeling. Family pictures and animal heads hang on the walls, a collection of beer steins are scattered about, hand-painted German scenes fill the faux arch windows.

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Along with its delicious food the Dakota Inn is famous for its sing-alongs. In the main dining area what looks like a huge wooden barrell lays on its side as a stage, as the  piano that sits inside is played, a man with a long pointer taps out the words to the song that hang on a plaque on a nearby wall. The first time Kris and I were here we had a great time and told our parents all about the place. Come to find out my parents had been regulars at the sing-alongs in the early 60’s, Kris’s parents had dined there maybe a decade earlier. We had the opportunity to take them there, each was amazed by the fact that time had changed nothing at the Dakota Inn.

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We had arrived well before the sing-along, we needed to be at the theatre at 7:30, so there was enough time to have dinner before people with reservations would start filtering in. We always have to have an order of potato pancakes, they are scrumptious, puffy and loaded with shredded potatoes, we like ours with sour cream. You can’t miss with the Jager Schnitzel, tender pork cutlet breaded and fried, topped with mushroom sauce, served with mashed potatoes, vegetables and soup or salad. Ok, here’s the thing, you can’t have soup OR salad at the Dakota Inn; they have this incredibly delicious hot bacon dressing, so the salad is a no-brainer, but they also make a Reuben soup that is out of this world; a cream based soup with chunks of corned beef and cabbage, topped with swiss cheese and pumpernickel croutons, you have to try it! The restaurant is still owned by the Kurz family and is operated by the second and third generation. It’s nice to know some things never change! Next time your looking for a good German meal you know where to go. Super Yum !

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 The Redford Theatre opened January 28, 1928 as a neighborhood movie theatre. The architectural design was unique in that it was done in a Japanese garden motif. I came to know The Redford Theatre on my Birthday many years ago. Kris was taking me out, but I didn’t know where to. I love old movies, especially musicals; I grew up on a steady diet of Rodgers & Hammerstein, Irving Berlin, Busby Berkley and George and Ira Gershwin. Stars like Gene Kelly, Judy Garland, Fred Astaire, Shirley Jones and Debbie Reynolds seemed like old friends, black and white or Technicolor, I thought they were all wonderful. So when we pulled up to the Redford Theatre’s  marquee with the words “Tonight: Dean Martin and Judy Holliday in Bells Are Ringing”, I couldn’t wait to get inside.

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We bought our tickets outside at the ticket booth the proceeded inside to the outer lobby. Two people handled the job of taking tickets, tearing them in half, and returning half to patrons. The space was clearly in the restoration process, a glass case for donations was half full of paper dollars and change. What work had been done gave insight to how lovely it would be when completed. We passed through the red doors to the lobby and concession area,the first thing I noticed were the chandeliers. Hanging from the second floor barrel vaulted ceiling, they are constructed of glass panels painted with a delicate bird design, lit from the inside they have a scalloped edge that is also studded with small lights. There are medallions where each intersects the ceiling. A carpeted stairway on each side leads to balcony seating  and are connected by a walkway that overlooks the lobby. As for the concession stand, a group of volunteers wait on customers handing them popcorn, soft drinks, and other movie theatre treats like Snow Caps, Twizzlers and Dots. You haven’t seen prices like this for decades! While we were milling about the lobby checking things out I heard the Barton Theatre Organ come to life, what was that they were playing? Let Me Call You Sweetheart….We poked our heads into the theatre just as a group of senior citizens started to sing along, men and women with grey hair and lined faces held hands and sang the words. Right then I was hooked!

We ascended the left stairway to find seats in the balcony, once situated we sat back and enjoyed the rest of the organ overture. When 8pm came the curtain opened and an old Bugs Bunny cartoon began to play on the screen, yes, just like the old days, they show a cartoon before the main feature. As for “Bells are Ringing”, it was teriffic, a little singing, a little dancing, light-hearted and fun. As we left the Redford that night with “Just In Time” playing in my head I knew we had found some place special.

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We have continued coming to the Redford for years, we have brought friends who then came back and brought more friends. Once we took both sets of parents to see the Wizard Of Oz, how cool is that? The restoration has continued and looks marvelous; new carpet and seats, stencils have been repainted. Keeping with the outdoor Japanese Garden theme the ceiling is painted like the sky; pale blue with puffy white clouds, and the best part, it is filled with twinkling stars. Extending out from the walls on each side of the stage area pagoda-style tile roofs, figures in Asian dress are also painted on the walls. The Redford never sat empty, so they are lucky enough to still have the original Barton theatre organ, complete with dragons. On this night Christmas decorations gave the theatre a festive glow, old train sets traveled through a tiny village and a tall tree filled with lights sat on the stage. When the evening was over the song  Auld Lang Syne filled our heads, and we thought, yes, it is A Wonderful Life.

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Tickets for films are only $4.00, show times are Friday and Saturday at 8:00pm, with the organ overture beginning at 7:30. The Saturday matinee is at 2:00pm, with a 1:30 overture. The prices at the concession stand are low, making it an affordable night out. They have a 50/50 drawing during the intermission that includes cash and prizes. This is an all volunteer organization, all the money from the concession, tickets and 50/50 goes towards the restoration and maintenance of this historic gem.Through the years we have seen the attendance grow as a new and younger audience discover this special place. For us this night was as close as we could get to actually going back in time. Click on the link to see the film schedule, there’s sure to be an old movie you’d like to see!