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Roadtrip Cleveland: The Greater Cleveland Aquarium

16 Jun

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Under the blue umbrella sky we started our drive south and east; destination Cleveland.  We love Cleveland, seriously, this town is highly underrated. Each time we visit we find more and more reasons to come back. Since we were here last, the Greater Cleveland Aquarium had opened, so that was the first place we went when we arrived in town. Located in the historic  FirstEnergy Powerhouse on the west bank of the flats, they have even turned the old coal mining tunnels into underwater displays; what a cool way to re-use a 100-year-old building! We paid for our tickets and started to look around.  The fish are all colorful; yellow angelfish, pink starfish, giant seahorses and clownfish with their whimsical stripes. Displays are eye-catching,  the Coral Reef, amazing! With over 35 tanks the variety of fish runs the gamut from Ohio game fish to alligators, octopus and sharks and rays of the Florida Keys. One area features an 11,000 gallon “touch tank”;  pet a horseshoe crab, sea urchin, sea cucumber, maybe even a shark or stingray. Then we made it to the Sea Tube, WOW, this is definitely the main attraction; an acrylic underwater tunnel that allows you a fascinating  walk-through experience. Home to over 18 sharks, fish and sting rays, you are surrounded by sea life. The tunnel goes on for over 150 feet; sharks swim overhead and alongside as you walk, schools of fish seemingly avoid the shark’s path, stingrays look as if they are flying as opposed to swimming. It’s peaceful and relaxing, it’s the place folks tend to linger. With the temperatures rising outside it was a great respite inside, cool and refreshing , just like a dip in the ocean.

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Cleveland is loaded with great districts, we ventured over to Ohio City for lunch. With many options available we selected La Petit Triangle Cafe; drawn in by its charming sidewalk seating we chose a table in the shade. This is one of those great neighborhood hang-outs; diners and staff all seem to know each other. Menu offerings are definitely French influenced, along with breakfast, lunch and dinner they also serve espresso, wine and other alcoholic beverages. We wanted something cool and refreshing, we chose the Triangle Salad; crisp greens, chevre, walnuts and dried cranberries topped off with a raspberry vinaigrette. For a sandwich the Pan Bagna had a winning combination of ham, swiss, tomato, artichoke, spinach and olive tapenade all piled atop a crisp and chewy French baguette, sounds good doesn’t it? It was! The iced tea of the day was a pomegranate green tea, so nice on a summer day. The funny thing was our waitress remembered us from last time we ate there, she said, aren’t you guys from Detroit? Now that’s some memory. She was actually headed to Detroit for the weekend….the electronic music festival, so we gave her a few tips and she did the same for us.

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Just a short drive from the restaurant, we thought we’d check into our room next. As always, we booked a room at Stone Gables Bed and Breakfast; we have been coming here for years, our favorite place to stay in Cleveland. The accommodations and location suit us perfectly; just a couple of blocks from Lake Erie and close to Westside Market and good restaurants it’s no wonder we keep coming back. I read about a new ice cream place that opened recently in the Gordon Square Arts District, so we took a drive over. The district runs up and down Detroit Street from West 58th to West 73rd; home the Cleveland Public Theatre, the newly restored Capitol Theatre, public art, cafes and funky independent shops this area has really come to life. Before we did anything else we had to find Sweet Moses; named after the city’s founder Moses Cleaveland, we had heard only good things about it, now I know why…Walk in the door and you will find yourself in an old-time soda fountain and treat shop. The space has been completely transformed with an authentic Bastion-Blessings soda fountain; framed in 16 feet of Tennessee marble with bar stools and vintage tables with wrought iron chairs it is a step back in time. The ice cream is all homemade along with hot fudge and caramel toppings, toffee, fudge and nut brittle’s, it’s a sweet-lovers dream come true. We had a seat at the counter and ordered a double chocolate malt made with the Belgian Chocolate ice cream, you know what, it would be worth the drive to go get one right now…it’s that good. With a wonderful real chocolate taste it was the perfect proportion of ice cream and malted milk, blended until still thick but not lumpy; large enough to share, it was fantastic! Served with a topping of fresh whipped cream that came from a chrome-like nozzle that pulled out of the soda fountain itself, it was fun to watch them make up orders as we indulged in our malt. Along with sundaes, cones, malts and shakes they also do old-fashioned phosphates and sodas made with carbonated water…..they even make their own root beer.  If I lived in Cleveland this would be a dangerous place for me. Time to walk off some of those calories; walking down Detroit we saw a sign on a corner directing us down a side street to a shop called Artful Living. Following the arrow we made our way in, what a great place; beautiful items for your home, jewelry, artwork and more. I found a pair of earrings I loved so I paid for them then immediately put them on. Little places like this seem to be popping up in the district. After a walk up and back ,taking our time to browse interesting shops, we went back to the room for a little rest and relaxation.

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Tremont is located on a bluff that overlooks the bend in the Cuyahoga River and provides excellent views of downtown, oh, and it has tons of restaurants, really good restaurants. One fine example would be Lolita, which is where we had dinner. Located on Literary Ave, this is one of Michael Symons early restaurants. Always busy, we were lucky enough to get a table right away, one of the advantages of having a late dinner. Service has always been impeccable and this time was no different. We had an appetizer of roasted dates; bacon wrapped with almonds chiles and parsley, they were outstanding. For our entrée the Olive Pizza sounded good; olives, mozzarella, Fresno chiles and oregano it was a nice combo of salty and spicy. One of the days side dishes was a polenta, I’m thinking it was made with cream cheese, it was so good.

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There was one more place we wanted to check out before the  night was over; The Prosperity Social Club. Opened in 2005, the original barroom building has stood in this spot on Starkweather Ave since 1938. The decor is vintage; from the stunning Art Deco bar and chestnut walls to the super-cool beer light fixtures, all are welcome here. There’s a wood burning fireplace and a game room that features an old-fashioned bowling machine, pool table and vintage board games. Along with a full service bar they also serve micro-brews and a tavern-style food menu, it is truly a neighborhood gem. There were two open seats at the bar, perfect. We ordered our drinks then kicked back. We met a nice couple from the area and ended up chatting with them for a while, how nice. We have always found Clevelanders to be friendly and fun to talk to, afterall Detroit and Cleveland have shared many of the same ups and downs through the decades; looks to me like both places are on the ups.

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DETROIT: Just Wandering…….

4 Jun

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We started the day off with no plan in mind, just wandering around the city in search of a smile; we knew she wouldn’t let us down . I had gardens on the mind, what better place to start than the Belle Isle Conservatory? There was a definite liveliness outside the building as workers set up chairs for an afternoon wedding, lucky them, they had a perfect day! We took a stroll up and down the rows of gardens; Peonies in varying shades of pinks and reds were in full bloom. Tall spikes of  Lupine in rose, white and blue reached skyward; giant Allium joined them. Irises in multiple varieties added color to the landscape, orange Oriental Poppies were dazzling. The lawn was green and lush, borders of shrubs separate the rows. We walked through an opening in the shrubs to the center of the garden; here we were delighted to see Marshall Fredericks (think: Spirit of Detroit) Leaping Gazelle fountain up and running again. I love this piece! The elegant gazelle is surrounded by an otter, goose, hawk and a rabbit, the four of them native to Michigan. I read that this was the first commissioned work for which Marshall Frederick was paid; it’s lovely.  After we walked through the conservatory we headed out to the Lily pond; this is such a peaceful area. We walked around the pond, stopping at the far end to watch the fish swim around, very relaxing. Volunteers do a wonderful job keeping the pond and grounds looking great.

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Across from the conservatory  there are a series of greenhouses run by the Agriscience students of the Golightly Career and technical Center in Detroit. 10th and 11th grade students who join this urban agriculture program spend a half day, each day, for two years learning about vegetable and flower production, environmental education, food safety and nutrition, sustainability and market sales and services. We noticed a flurry of people and activity over at the greenhouses, we walked over to take a look. It was Friday, they were busy preparing for their annual plant sale scheduled for Saturday and Sunday. With permission,  we were able to walk through the greenhouses; aisles of perennials, annuals, herbs and heirloom tomatoes all ready to be sold. Volunteers were busy placing name tags and prices in the appropriate pots. I saw beautiful Foxglove, Coral Bells and daylilies. Flats of Petunias perfumed the air, Marigolds, Dahlias and Geraniums wait to be planted. It was fun to have a chance to go inside and poke around.

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We had made up our mind to have lunch at Green Dot Stables on West Lafayette; only opened for a short time it has already become quite popular. This horse-race-themed establishment serves a variety of sliders, fries and sides, all right around three bucks each. Newly refurbished, the interior has red brick walls and wood floors; it has a sort of retro feel to me. Two of three televisions had live horse racing on, while the third had soccer; photos of jockey’s adorn the walls. The menu is simple and straightforward, Sliders are served on Detroit’s own Browns Buns and come in an array of choices: Corned Beef, Lamb, Catfish, Shredded Pork to name a few along with traditional and Mystery Meat. French Fries are the super skinny type; crisp and delicious; these are also available in an assortment of ways: Cajun, Ranch, Truffle and Herb and our choice of  malt vinegar. For the ease of ordering we asked our waitress to bring us one of each of the first five sliders on the menu; that makes life easy, next time we get the next five…..The food arrived swiftly; each of the burgers comes in its own little cardboard dish garnished with pickle slices. We cut them in half and dug in; each had its own unique flavor, the combinations of meat and toppings very tasty, the traditional as good or better than any  I’ve ever had. Next time I have to remember to save room for dessert: a Smore Slider; cinnamon, Nutella and marshmallow fluff served on a bun, sounds good doesn’t it?

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We made a stop at Germack Coffee Shop in Eastern Market, after our caffeine fix we headed back outdoors to check out all  the goings-on in preparation for Flower Day.  North of the market The Detroit Mercantile Co was getting ready for their grand opening the following morning. The door was slightly ajar, the owner in view; we asked if we might get a sneak peek in the store, without hesitation we were welcomed in. What a cool store! Seriously, this place is great. The shop carries a little bit of everything; vintage and new items, clothing, gifts, music, souvenirs, even new bikes from the Detroit Bicycle Company. The owner is enthusiastic about carrying products made locally,we’re all for that ! The displays are eye-catching, you want to look everywhere at once, then you want to buy everything….. The mix of old and new really works well together, the owners passion for Detroit is clearly visible. I can tell we will be regular shoppers here.  

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DETROIT: Mexico and a Movie

30 May

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On any given evening you can find something interesting to do in Detroit. Kris read somewhere the movie My Week With Marilyn was showing at the Cass City Cinema at the Burton Theater; cool venue, fun topic, why not? The 140 seat theater is housed in the former Burton International School on Cass Ave. The old auditorium has been renovated into a legitimate movie theater equipped with the latest technology. Showing both Hollywood movies and independent films tickets cost only $5.00. Owner Joel Landy purchased the building in 2009, he owns many properties in the area and thought a movie theater would be a nice addition to the neighborhood.

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The attractive brick building is easy to find; parking is convenient, they have their own fenced in lot adjacent to the structure. We were the first to arrive for the evening showing;  with no other movie-goers to follow, we got out of the car and walked toward a sign with an arrow directing us to the entrance. We trailed from one sign to the next and then the next, where was everybody? Did we have the right time? Alone, we reached the door; once inside we encountered more signs and arrows directing us up the stairs.We came across this wonderful display of vintage projectors; that and the smell of freshly popped popcorn assured us we were on the right track. At the top of the stairs was a small concession stand to the right, ah ha! the source of the popcorn, the left wall displayed posters of upcoming movies.  We purchased our tickets along with a bag of still warm popcorn and proceeded into the theater. The space is small, intimate and cozy; heavy curtains hang in the doorway dividing the lobby from the auditorium. The decor is definitely vintage; dark wood, antique light fixtures, velour seats. More people started to arrive; a mix of regulars and newbies, we all took our seats as the trailers were projected onto the screen. By the time the movie began I was comfy in my seat and surroundings, there’s something really cool about seeing a movie here. It’s like a private screening, your focus is entirely on the story being played out before you, drawing you in. My Week With Marilyn is based on the making of the movie The Prince and the Showgirl filmed in 1956 in England. I thought Michelle Williams did an outstanding job capturing the essence of Marilyn Monroe. We both found the movie quite enjoyable, can’t wait to come back.

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For dinner we drove over to Southwest Detroit, there are just so many restaurants there I don’t know if we’ll ever be able to try them all; it will be fun trying! A little deeper into that section of the city is El Nacimiento on West Vernor.  The dining area is spacious, the decor traditional Mexican. We sat in a booth along the window overlooking all of the activity outdoors. Our server arrived quickly with water and menus, multiple page menus, this wasn’t going to be easy….everything looked delicious. Moments later a big basket of warm chips arrived with a platter that held three different salsas, sliced radishes and lime wedges. We munched on chips sampling each salsa as we perused the menu, when in doubt order one of everything…….well, almost everything. We had a Botana, llomo tostada, chorizo taco, cheese enchilada and chicken flauta, it was all soooo good! There were lots of freshly sliced avocado, jalapeno, ripe tomato, onion and finely shredded lettuce garnishing each, well seasoned, each meat had its own distinct flavor. We could have easily fed at least one other person! 

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After leaving El Nacimiento we drove around a bit; over on Sprigwells St we noticed Sheilas Bakery was still open. Another thing we like about Southwest, things stay open late; where else can you find an open bakery at 8:30pm on a Sunday night? Sheilas is awesome; when you come in the door there is a series of large refrigerators with glass doors displaying a huge selection of beautiful sheet cakes. Sheilas is known for her cakes, especially the Tres Leches. The next section of the bakery is mainly traditional Mexican baked goods, we try something new each visit. This time we selected a flaky type rolled pastry filled with cream cheese and passion fruit, some kind of triangle shaped baked cheese thing, and I couldn’t resist a piece of yellow cake with the pink frosting and sprinkles. Too full to eat on the spot we took it home to enjoy later…….and enjoy we did! The cheese triangle kind of reminded us of a less sweet cheesecake, though equally delicious. The rolled pastry was light and crisp, the filling very tasty. The cake was exactly how good cake should be; moist and tender, the frosting creamy and delectable.  The bakery also sells these amazing looking little desserts that appear to be a flower suspended in gelatin, next time we’re getting one of those. It turned out to be a wonderful evening of new tastes and adventures, I can’t wait till next weekend!


DETROIT: You Gotta Have Art

11 May

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There seems to be no end of things to see and do in Detroit; from places and activities that have  been around forever to  new things that seem to be springing up all the time. Today we were going to visit two places that may be a little lesser known, but are worth seeking out. We began with a trip to Southwest Detroit for some lunch. Mexican food is well represented in this district, but did you know there is an awesome El Salvordan place on Livernois? Pupuseria y restaurante Salvadoreno is a small cinder block building painted avocado green. It sits back off the road a ways,  a large blinking arrow near the street points you to the building and adjacent parking lot. This is definitely a place for the more adventurous. Once inside you walk through an area reserved for people waiting for take-out, then into the dining room. The space is sparsely decorated; white painted walls and flags representing Central America wrap around the room, seating consists of booths and tables with metal folding chairs. As you may have guessed from the name, pupusas are the house specialty, they are delicious! The menu is filled with classic Salvadoran food; try several different things. We always like to pick a combination of dishes and share. Of course you have to have a pupusa or two; we chose the cheese and jalapeno and the pork, yum! A pupusa is made of a thick handmade tortilla with a filling in the middle,  made to order they are served with curtido and a homemade hot sauce.. Curtido is a spicy cole slaw using vinegar instead of mayo, you place some curtido on top of the pupusa, hot sauce too if you like, and enjoy. We had an order of Yucca too, deep fried to a crisp light golden color, they could almost pass for french fries, also served with curtido, this one was a bit hotter with diced jalapeno. Last but certainly not least were the plantains. I’m not sure how they are prepared, but they arrive to the table all warm and golden; the outside caramelized and delightful. They are served with beans and cream, yeah, I know, sounds strange….The theory is to drag your golden plantain through the beans (they look like Mexican refried beans) then through the cream (I would describe it as a thin sour cream) and enjoy. You have to try it to appreciate it! Portions are large and prices fair so you can eat till your heart’s content, which is exactly what we did.

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One place we have been meaning to go back to is the Russell Industrial Center located on Clay Street.You have probably seen the massive structure on the east side of I-75. We heard about the Spring Open House and were anxious to see what it was all about. Construction of the 7 building, Albert Kahn designed complex began in 1915 and was completed in 1925. The structure is made of concrete and large steel-framed factory windows, it has a total  of 2.2 million square feet of space. Originally home to Murray Manufacturing Company, the buildings were originally used to make auto bodies and parts for numerous manufacturers such as: Ford, Packard, REO, Pierce Arrow, Auburn and Dodge; the list goes on and on. The building complex has changed hands a number of times, previous owners include: Harry & Leona Helmsly, Household International (Thermos), and in 2003 Dennis Kefallinos bought all seven buildings. His idea was to turn the complex into a mixed business community; there are currently 150 commercial tenants ranging from artists and craftspeople to printers and small businesses.

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We arrived at RIC and parked. The only indication that anything was going on were a few balloons near the entrance; we opened the door, a sign directed us to the second floor. Here we found ourselves at the end of a very long hallway, miscellaneous furniture was randomly placed throughout the hall. We came upon an open door, inside was a glass studio; artists and visitors were scattered about the space, some working on a project others watching intently. We felt like we had the hang of it now, so we began the process of wandering from studio to studio, hall to hall. The building  is enormous, some walls are decorated with murals, sculptures, tiny lights or signs; it’s all very avant- garde. We popped into an artists studio; over-sized paintings hung from the wall, we browsed the room taking in the view from the immense windows. In and out we went from the second to the third floor, room to room; jewelry, metal sculptures, photography and apparel. We saw vintage posters and amazing outdoor sculptures for sale. We spoke to the artists themselves about their work and the city.

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We crossed over to building #2 and began the same process. A.K. Services is this incredible woodworking studio, an intriguing collection of antique chandeliers hangs from the ceiling. Alan not only does custom carpentry work, he has designed a line of furniture that he makes right there in his shop, the designs are really cool, check out his Quarnge chairs. We happened upon another glass studio where glass blowers were busy at work, don’t you just love watching them? The pieces here were awesome, they have a large display area and make everything from bowls and vases to windows and outdoor pieces. The artwork and paintings we saw were unique and funky, done by talented artists. We came across one section where a huge sculpture of found objects stood, as we walked toward it we saw another one in the distance, then another and another, finally leading us to the studio itself. We were invited in by a voice somewhere in the room, it was hard to tell where it initiated from at first due to the mass quantities of stuff that filled the space. We found our way to the person belonging to the voice and got an introduction to his work; pieces are eclectic, whimsical, and fun. They are brightly colored range in size from a few inches to many feet tall. The buildings are also home to graphic designers, architects and writers, there is a very creative vibe about the place. It was fascinating to be able to freely investigate this extremely cool old building. The place has an amazing history; this is the project that first brought attention to Kahn’s work, and a true industrial hub.  The People’s Art Festival takes place here each September, I highly recommend a visit.

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More Columbus: Victorian Village & Short North

2 May

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Our second day in Columbus was sunny and warm, the sky was almost turquoise in color, provided a beautiful background for our exploration of a neighborhood known as Victorian Village. Located in northwest Columbus, Neil Ave is the main street through the district. Because of the close proximity to Ohio State University and the fact that a street car line ran through the area, Victorian Village was a very desirable place to live. Most homes were built between the late 1800’s and early 1900’s and as the name implies they were Victorian in design. I have to say, these are not the typical homes one envisions when you hear the word “Victorian”; for one thing they are almost all brick. The homes are grand, elegant, and ornate; porches are large and welcoming, windows are beveled or stained glass. The shapes are unique to each home as are the colors of brick and trim. Features such as gingerbread, tile roofs and turrets grace the neighborhood. The distance between porches and the sidewalk are short, many opt for gardens instead of lawn, the landscape is designs are wonderful. This is one of my favorite historic urban neighborhoods; it’s the kind of place I can walk all day and my feet never get tired. We couldn’t have picked a better time to visit, all was in bloom; Tulips, Dogwood, Azalea and Lilac, it smelled as pretty as it looked!

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The next neighborhood on our list was Short North. Just a short walk from Victorian Village, this district is home to some of Columbus’s most eclectic shops and restaurants. Nestled along High Street the area is known for its signature arches. Yes, arches! Back in 1888 Columbus was chosen to host the centennial celebration of the Northwest Territory, thus installing a series of 17 lighted arches running about a mile down High Street. Somewhere along the line they disappeared, in 2002 a new set of arches were put up, high-tech and LED technology allow a range of colors and programmable light shows on the hour after dark giving Short North a distinct personality. If you like to browse, this is the place; galleries, fashion and home decor are well represented. We parked on High and walked the length of the district stopping in a variety of shops along the way. We hit a chocolate store first, you have keep your energy up….from here we traversed High and  the little off-shoot streets running perpendicular to it; quirky boutiques, candles, funky art, a flower shop and cooking store. We saw jewelry, wine and baked goods. Flower Child is two levels of vintage finds; if you miss the days avocado green, bell bottoms, kidney-shaped tables, lava lamps and shag carpeting you can get your fix here. The window of Karavan Treasures lures you in with its stunning collection of mosaic lanterns. The Grandview Mercantile Co features fine antiques and vintage items, this place is huge! The outside of buildings can be as interesting as the inside; a whimsical take on the classic “American Gothic” painting can be found on the corner of High and Lincoln, check out the Mona Lisa mural at Lincoln and Pearl. 

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Being a weekday we headed out-of-town a bit early and decided to look for an interesting place to have a late lunch along the way. It didn’t take long; just outside of the city on 5th Ave we found the Cambridge Tea House. Housed in an enchanting old brick building known as Marble Cliff Station, the place just oozed charm. We were seated at a table window-side, sunlight streamed in from three sides of the room. Brick and stone walls, white tablecloths and Victorian accents give the room personality. The menu is a lovely selection of teas, scones, sandwiches, salads and soups, our waitress was outgoing and friendly. We selected the spinach salad topped with thinly sliced pears, spiced pecans and goat cheese crumbles, delicious. The fresh veggie sandwich sounded appealing, at the waitress’ suggestion we added bacon to it, yeah, I know….but I’ll tell you, it was the perfect combination! The house iced green tea was wonderful. We were nourished, hydrated and ready to take the scenic route home.

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Kris knows a great route; from 5th Ave we take 33/257 north, which follows the scenic Scioto River. It’s gorgeous in springtime; Redbuds are in full bloom. We stopped in at Griggs Dam; at 500 feet long and 35 ft high it’s impressive. Watching the water tumble over the drop and into the river is mesmerizing. Back in the car, we follow the river into the tiny village of Prospect. We continue our route north through the countryside, dotted with pretty houses and farms, horses and cows it’s serene and relaxing. From Upper Sandusky we take 199 into the Toledo area, and finally I-75 back to Detroit.  Columbus is a short drive from the D and has so much to offer;one-of-a-kind districts, cool shops and great food. Perfect for a weekend getaway! 

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WOODWARD; Science, Sliders & Sweets

18 Apr

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Southeast Michigan is loaded with fascinating, engaging and entertaining places to visit; one such place is the Cranbrook Institute of Science. Situated in Bloomfield Hills, the museum invites us to take a fun and thought-provoking look at science, technology and natural history. The museum expanded over the years, which is architecturally evident on the exterior of the building. The original structure is complimented by a reflecting pool complete with Mermaids and Tritons sculptures designed by Carl Milles. The main entrance is located in the museums newest wing; the architecture here is modern, large windows allow natural light to pour in. Once you purchase your ticket at the desk you are free to roam. The exhibits are laid out in a manner that enables you to traverse them as you desire. Dinosaurs are ever popular, the Tyrannosaurus Rex skeleton gets lots of attention. Did you know the Mastodon was plentiful in Michigan during the last ice age?

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Further on we are introduced to anthropology through the guidance of  a virtual holographic-like woman named Meg, it’s amazing how life-like she is! There’s a wonderful collection of objects  from the Great Lakes native peoples; beautiful items like traditional clothing really caught my eye. I think my favorite area is the Mineral Study Gallery; I can remember coming here as a child and being captivated by the shapes and incredible colors. George Booth (founder of Cranbrook) started this mineral collection in 1926, there are currently over 11,000 specimens. Case after case I stop and stare at the samples, I like to read the names and try  to remember my favorites….it never works….Be sure and check out the Michigan Minerals. As we continued walking we found ourselves in the Hulbert Observatory, we lucked out as it was the first Sunday of the month so it was open to visitors. This is really cool! The observatory is home to a six-inch refracting telescope, I have no idea what that means, but from what I gather, it’s pretty impressive in the telescope world. The motion gallery is also well-liked, here adults and children can participate hands-on. Throughout the museum we are taught about the world in simple ways we can relate to, they really do make learning fun!

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If you have driven down Woodward near 15 mile road you have probably seen the little white porcelain diner known as Hunter House. Established in 1952 by the Papazian family they have been serving up delicious sliders for over half a century, daughter Susan now runs the restaurant. We arrived late afternoon so seating was plentiful, we placed our order at the counter, paid, then took our seats in the front window overlooking one of America’s most well-known streets: Woodward Avenue. The diner seats only 28 on vintage black and chrome stools, either at the counter or facing the windows. After a brief wait our order was ready, I went over to the grill to retrieve them; 2 plates of burgers and an order of fries, I could hardly wait to dig in. After the addition of mustard for me, I replaced the warm steamed bun back atop the hamburger with the grilled onions smashed right into the patty. The first bite is always the best; the soft bun, crunchy pickles, a bit tart to go with the sweet onion, and the burger itself, delicious high quality beef tender and moist…awesome! The fries are the skinny variety, friend to a golden crisp, they are the perfect complement to the slider.  Whether you’re in the mood for a little nostalgia or just have a hankering for a plateful of excellent little burgers, this is the place.

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We made one more stop, this time for something sweet, at another Michigan original, Kilwins on Old Woodward. Opened in 1947 in Petoskey Michigan, Don and Katy Kilwin perfected their recipes for delicious chocolate, fudge and ice cream and shared it with the public. Their original recipe ice cream is still made at the dairy in Hudsonville. Kilwins now has 80 stores across the US, many of them situated in tourist-type towns. The Birmingham location is housed in a 100-year-old building that still retains the original hardwood floor. As soon as you walk in the door your senses are delighted with the sight and smell of ice cream and confections. It was just before Easter so chocolate rabbits and foil wrapped eggs decorated shelves. A batch of fudge was being made, oh how I long to dip my finger in and have a taste. The candy counter is filled with tempting treats, milk, dark and white chocolate all call my name. We just wanted a bite, so we split a Milk Pecan Snapper. Picture this: a large gob of rich chewy caramel pressed into a pile of crisp pecans, topped with a thick coating of  luscious milk chocolate, Yum! UPDATE: This location is now closed.

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YPSILANTI: Fire Trucks & Food

14 Apr

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There is a wonderful ritual that takes place each spring; no it’s not the Tulips and Daffodils emerging from the cold ground or the blossoms and sweet scent of flowering trees….It’s the official opening of our beloved Drive-In restaurants! If you have ever eaten at Bill’s Drive-In located in Ypsilanti, you totally get what I am talking about. Though Bills had been open for a few weeks, it was our first opportunity to make the trip out to Ypsi.

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Best known for being the home of Eastern Michigan University, Ypsilanti has a lot to offer; from beautiful historic neighborhoods and a downtown on the comeback to independent shops and restaurants that have called Michigan Avenue home for decades. Our first stop in Ypsi was the Michigan Firehouse Museum located on Cross St. This gorgeous building was the original 1898 firehouse, in 2002 a multi-level addition was added. The museum takes you through the history of firefighting; from technology used to fight fires to the equipment and tools. When you step into the main exhibit space you are greeted by rows of impressive vintage fire trucks. There are no ropes to prevent you from getting right up close to these magnificent vehicles; it’s fascinating to see the evolution of the equipment through the years. The museum possesses the largest collection of fire truck bells in the country, and you know what else? You can try them out! Glass cases line the walls detailing the evolution of helmets and breathing apparatus, some of them are pretty creepy looking….The second level overlooks the main floor giving a wonderful overall view of the firetrucks. You will find display cases filled with hats, toy fire trucks and other interesting memorabilia, remember Smokey The Bear? From here cross over into the original building; this is the original bunk area complete with brass pole! Unfortunately, the pole is off-limits, so you have to take the stairs back down to the main level. Being someone who loves old things, this is my favorite area. Large wood cabinets hold vintage lanterns, it seems everything from the trucks and decoratively painted wheels to the accessories are he handsome and elegant. An original switchboard hangs on the wall, there’s a stunning 1910 ladder wagon, and an amazing example of a 1878 fire engine steamer complete with horses. The lower level is host to a group of original vehicles belonging to fire chiefs and a children’s area. The museum brings back the old childhood fascination of fire trucks!

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The short drive down Michigan Avenue to Bill’s Drive-In was filled with great anticipation; would it be as good as we remembered? The small wooden building is appropriately painted Mustard Yellow and Root Beer Brown, you eat from a tray that hangs on your car window, or a picnic table in the lot. I read that Bill’s has been around since the early 50’s and the recipe has always stayed the same, why mess with perfection? As soon as we were parked a car-hop came over to take our order; there are no menus here, they only serve coneys, plain potato chips and their own homemade root beer, perfect for the indecisive diner. I’ll start with the coneys; the hot dogs are made with a special recipe by Dearborn Sausage, they are placed in perfectly steamed buns and given a blanket of, in my opinion, the perfect chili topping. I would describe it as a more mild, sweet and smooth chili sauce, dressed with yellow mustard and minced onion, it arrives wrapped in white tissue. It is the tastiest coney I’ve ever had, they’re one of Kris’s favorites too. Then there’s the Root Beer, if you like Root Beer, you have to try Bill’s. With one big pull on the straw your mouth will be in Root Beer heaven; it’s like drinking one of those old-fashioned root beer barrel hard candies that has been rolled in superfine sugar…..outstanding! Many patrons buy a gallon of the stuff to take home. The day was mild so we ate our dogs outside using the trunk as a table, they were even better than I remembered!

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It’s always worth a drive through downtown Ypsi to see what’s new, we noticed a couple of new things so we parked to take a look. We first checked out a retail shop named Mix, it has a wonderful blend of new and used items; women’s clothing, furniture, accessories, household goods and even some art. The shop is laid out attractively and is fun to browse through. Across the street is Mix Market Place, as you may have guessed, it is owned and operated by the same owners as the retail Mix. The marketplace is an indoor collection of local entrepreneurs in a farmer’s market type setting. There was a definite buzz of activity when walked in the door; food vendors offered up samples of their specialized goodies, The Ugly Mug Cafe filled the air with the aroma of fresh brewed coffee. From gourmet food and hand-made stationery to antique goods and artisan soaps there was a little bit of everything. Vendors vary from week to week, so you never know what you may discover.

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There was one more new place we wanted to check out: B-24’s Espresso Bar, just a little way up Michigan Ave. Named in honor of Ypsilanti’s heritage, B-24’s were built locally at Willow Run, the cafe features coffee, tea, fresh-baked goods and Guernsey Ice Cream. The cafe seems to be a popular gathering spot for locals of all ages. Though the baked goods looked very good, between the coneys, root beer and free samples at the marketplace, we were unable to partake in any of them. Instead we got our beverages to go and began the journey home.

DETROIT: Dinner & A Show

2 Apr

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Detroit is home to a fantastic array of wonderful restaurants, how lucky are we? Every once in a while it’s nice to splurge and visit one of the high-end places, which is exactly what we did on a balmy March evening.  Opus One resides on Larned Street, in what was once an old Taxi garage, you’d never know it by looking at the place! Opened in 1986 by third generation restaurateur Jim Kokas, the quality of the food and service is definitely upscale. We arrived just in time for our 6pm reservation, the Bistro Bar was busy with the after work crowd. Here you can enjoy a delicious meal in an informal setting, or simply have a drink while watching the game. We sat in the swanky dining room; cloth tablecloths, white napkins and candles dress each table, soft lighting and warm tones set the relaxing mood. Our servers were friendly and attentive, rattling off a list of mouth-watering specials. We started with the Chilled Quinoa and Avocado Salad, absolutely scrumptious. I chose the Baked Pinwheel of Norwegian Salmon with spinach and Brie, served with haricot verts and rice with a Buerre Blanc sauce, it was amazing!  Kris ordered the Opus One “All Day” Blueberry Braised Beef; served with cheddar mashed potatoes and haricot verts with roasted corn, it looked delectable. The beef was melt-in-your-mouth tender and a nice portion too. Opus One is also known for their dessert cart, yes, cart not tray. I saw it go by several times and could barely tear my eyes away from it, but after that incredible meal, we just couldn’t do it. There’s always next time! 

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If you like theatre, there is an endless variety of choices in Detroit; from professional and touring companies to local talent, a show is just a ticket away. Since 1963 Wayne State University’s Hillberry Theatre has been the home of the first and only graduate repertory theatre company in the country. From October to mid-May the company performs six classic and modern plays in rotating repertory. They do everything from acting and costume design to lighting, set design and theatre management. All of this takes place in the former First Church Of Christ Scientist, located on Cass Ave in the heart of the WSU campus.Tonight’s show was  Summer and Smoke, I am a big Tennessee Williams fan, so I was looking forward to the production.We entered the theatre itself to locate our seats, pausing at the back to look at the set. The scenery captures the setting of 1916 Mississippi; for this production all activity takes place in two rooms, side by side sections of Alma’s home and Johnny’s office.The story of Summer and Smoke captures all of the Tennessee Williams nuances that I love, his work is timeless. The actors vividly bring the characters to life, we are able to feel their joy and frustration, their pain and finally their resolution. 


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It was late, but we thought we’d make one more stop before calling it a night. Still full from dinner, a nightcap seemed like a good idea. There is always a bar open somewhere in Hamtramck, the only hard part is choosing one. As we drove down Joseph Campau we noticed an open parking space right in front of 7 Brothers, decision made. We have been here before and love the vintage bar, so it’s always fun to come back. 7 Brothers is in a shotgun style building; long and narrow, with Bar only seating. It’s everything you could want in a “dive bar” without the Dive Bar prices….. Entertainment consists of a Jukebox, pool table and dart machine, and they only accept CASH. Owned since 1977 by a man named George, it is not unusual to find him sitting at the bar as he was on this night.  Curious, we asked the age of the Bar (not the building) and were told it went back to pre-prohibition days. Behind the bar is one of those gorgeous wood bar cabinets, the kind with the mirrors and shelves to hold all of the liquor, it looks to be from the 30’s or 40’s. The opposing wall is plastered with headshots of actors both local and famous, this is a popular hang-out for thespians from Planet Ant and beyond. The atmosphere is casual and relaxed, fellow patrons were friendly and talkative, a nice way to end the evening. 

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The city is always full of things to see and do, all you have to do is look!

DETROIT: The Wright Museum

28 Mar

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The Charles H Wright Museum of African-American History is the world’s largest institution dedicated to the African-American experience. Having said that,  I’d like to add, it’s a wonderful museum to visit.  Whichever door you enter, you will find yourself in the Ford Freedom Rotunda. Here the wide open space if filled with light pouring in through the glass dome, at 100 feet in diameter  and 65 feet in height, it is impressive. On the floor of the rotunda is the Ring Of Genealogy; designed by Hubert Massey the piece depicts the struggles of African-Americans in this country. Bronze nameplates of prominent citizens surround the piece, each year new names are added to the Ring. The museum is named for founder Dr Charles H Wright, an obstetrician and gynecologist who practiced in Detroit from 1946-1950 and again from 1955-1986.

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The heart of the museum is “And Still We Rise: Our Journey Through African-American History and Culture”.  The exhibits are laid out in time-line fashion; beginning in Africa with the birth of mankind,then we get a look into ancient and early modern civilization. Beautiful dress and artwork fill displays. From there we start an eerie, haunting trip, the treacherous journey across the ocean, where men and women were transported from their independence into slavery.The ship exhibit demonstrates a small  glimpse of the suffering  that was endured; a moving and at times uncomfortable experience for museum-goers. Continuing forward in time through the days of the underground railroad, up to emancipation. In the end  we are able to celebrate the freedom and success of past and present-day Detroiters.  The building is also home to  the General Motors Theater which hosts live performances, films and lectures. Located in Detroit’s Cultural Center it is one of many great things to do in the area.

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 When Slow’s Bar B Q opened in the shadows of the old train station it seemed an unlikely location for success; they had the guts to take a chance and it has paid off bigger than I think they even imagined. They have paved the way for other fledgling businesses such as Astro Coffee and Sugar House, and all are reaping the rewards. Suddenly this little stretch of Michigan Avenue has come alive. We have been patiently awaiting the opening of Mercury Burger Bar across the street from Slow’s; alas our wait is over!The building is named after the Mercury Train which ran from New York to Detroit and then Chicago in the 1930’s and 40’s. It’s latest incarnation serves burgers, hand-cut fries, grilled bologna sandwiches, milkshakes, and yes, cocktails.

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Situated on a corner lot the building is odd-shaped; very narrow at the entrance and growing wider toward the back. The bar reflects this shape and is at the center of the dining room; aluminum tables and chairs line the windowed walls, red vinyl dresses up the booths. To the left hangs a large mural created by Detroit’s own Jerome Feretti. Play a game of seek and find as you look at the colorful piece; the Penobscot building, ren cen, sails of a tall ship, all play homage to the city. On the back wall a large image of a Mercury automobile grill livens up the space. Then there’s the food; you can’t go wrong with a good burger, and they have plenty to choose from. I had the turkey burger, tender and moist, good toppings, it was delicious. Kris went with the Local, it seemed to have a bit of everything piled high on top, also delicious. The fries are heavenly; fresh-cut, fried to a perfect crisp and seasoned with sea salt and pepper, I could have eaten the entire basket myself! They were doing a swift business this afternoon, it seems the good word is out. Next time you have a burger craving, give Mercury a try.

Daytrip: Flint

18 Mar

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I have always had a soft spot for the underdog, which is part of the reason I like  Flint. The city has more going for it than you may have imagined; Great museums, delicious food, and a fascinating history. Don’t look now but downtown is starting to make a comeback too! Did you know the first completed production Corvette rolled off the Flint assembly line in 1953? It was one of 300 hand-assembled ‘Vettes made that year. The 1950’s and 60’s  were the height of the city’s  prosperity and population. The economic and industrial struggles the nation faced through the years were even more magnified in this auto producing town. Today you will find new life in long standing neighborhoods and institutions, and a breath of fresh air sweeping into the city.

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It has been a while since we were at a farmers market; the sky was clear and blue, the sun was shining, what better time to drive out to the Flint Farmers Market?This year-round public building was built in 1940 by WPA workers, it has been a vital part of the community ever since. During the summer there are all sorts of vendors outdoors, this time of year it is mostly contained indoors. As you would expect you’ll find produce, meat, poultry, breads and baked goods. I love the initial scent as I walk into a market, it’s always a wonderful mix of aromas! The building is laid out in one long aisle from end to end, a wine shop caps off one of the ends. d’vine Wines has a generous variety of wines both local and international, along with beer and even dairy items from the ever popular Calder Dairy. 

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We strolled the main aisle, up one side and down the other; spices, jams, dips and cut fruit all available to sample. Ethnic groceries, cool looking sea salt, deli sandwiches fresh cider mill style donuts and hot coffee all beckon to be purchased. The cheese vendor has an especially large variety to choose from, Kris picked one out and we got a chunk to eat while we walked. Upstairs is home to an art gallery; jewelry, ceramics, photographs, and paintings fill the display. Across the hall is a restaurant called Steady Eddy’s Cafe, this place is always packed, today was no exception. Serving breakfast and lunch the menu leans towards vegetarian and vegan selections, they also have homemade soups daily. Satisfied with our market stop it was time to move on.

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If you’ve never been to the Flint Institute of Arts, put it on your to-do list, this is a terrific museum. The museum itself is 150,000 sq ft with 25,000 sq ft of gallery space. The building also houses a cafe, gift shop, art school, library and theater. We were there on a Target Free Saturday, so there was no admission fee; good to keep in mind. We have been here many times and still my favorite space is the Viola E Bray Renaissance Gallery, it is superb! The gallery itself was built for a single purpose: to display the 60 Renaissance and Baroque items donated by Mrs. Bray. The most exquisite being a collection of  10 tapestries made in France in the 17th Century. The tapestries represent the legend of Rinaldo and Armida as told in Jerusalem Delivered, a poem by Torquato Tasso. One of the gallery volunteers told us  that it is quite unusual for anyone to hold a complete set of tapestries. Not only did Mrs Bray donate the items, she also donated the money to build the gallery; it is elegant, ornate, magnificent. Floors are marble, the ceiling coffered, reflecting true renaissance style. The tapestries themselves are made of wool and silk, take a close look; the borders are filled with symbols such as laurel wreaths, Mercury, Urania, Justice and Victory; the detail is awe-inspiring.  Don’t miss the Decorative Arts Gallery, they have a sensational collection of glass paperweights. With the recent expansion the layout guides you easily from gallery to gallery; painted in bold colors such as berry, Celadon and bright yellow, the artwork really stands out. You could easily pass a couple of hours traversing the space.

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On the drive up we had decided to have lunch at Hoffman’s Deco Deli located inside the Carriage Town Antique Center. First we would eat, then we would browse. Being a deli they have a wide variety of sandwiches to choose from along with wraps, salads and gourmet coffee. A large chalk board hangs on the wall; Items are written in colored chalk giving a full description. We picked the Super Veggie sandwich on whole grain bread, the Farmers Market Salad and a side of the southwest barley salad. Place your order at the counter then take a seat at one of the tables in the dining room or a high-top by the window. The building itself is a restored Art Deco warehouse, the interior of the deli is decorated with funky objects, it’s always fun to look around. Our lunch arrived quickly, which was good because we were really hungry. Everything looked so good we didn’t know where to start! The sandwich was stacked high with avocado spread, feta, sprouts, onion, jalapeno, bell pepper, cucumber, leaf lettuce and tomato with a bit of veggie seasoning, delicious. The salad is a bit unusual in that a drizzle of BBQ sauce serves as the dressing; it works well with the other ingredients such as chicken and crumbled bacon, definitely a winner. The barley salad added  a bit of spice to the meal and was a nice change from pasta salad.When we’d had our fill we walked through to the antique center of the building, the pieces here are in good condition. Items run the gamut from antique china cabinets, loads of colored glass and pottery to vintage clothing, period lighting and Christmas items on the second floor. There are shelves and glass cases filled with beautiful items from days gone by. Vintage collectibles rest side by side with period furniture, heirloom jewelry and an antique organ. It’s a great shop with an ever-changing inventory. 

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We enjoyed the time we spent in Flint, there are many more things to see and do, but they will have to wait until next time. If you’re looking for a change of pace give Flint a try, I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised.