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DETROIT: Out On The Town

10 Mar

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Membership has it’s privileges….for years we have belonged to the Detroit Historical Society,  it’s enabled us to enjoy historical museums, sites and events locally and throughout the Midwest for free. Tonight we’re checking out the opening of the new exhibit “Out on the Town Drinking and Dining in Detroit Since 1920” at the Detroit Historical Museum; the entire museum, music, food and of course, drinks, are included. Non-members need only to fork over $25 for the same treatment, well worth the price of admission… Being a member also gives us access to special exhibits, programs and discounts on Behind The Scenes Tours and Historic Houses of Worship Tours. I love historical museums, they tell the story of a place; who first settled there, how they lived, how it evolved, how it became the city it is today. Both of us are fond of this building, there’s something endearing about a historical museum housed in an older building, this one was built specifically for the museum in 1951. 

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The temperature is frigid, we score the last space in the parking lot on Kirby, it’s a short walk to the door. Inside, the building has taken on a party atmosphere, greeters direct us to the coat check, food and drinks, music plays faintly in the distance. We begin on the first floor, America’s Motor City, exhibits here tell how Detroit built cars and how cars built Detroit. Folks have already filled their plates with delicious food prepared by Holiday Catering, they sit on benches in front of the “body drop” eating and watching, others carefully balance their food and drink as they wander through. We take our place in the food line, grab brown paper cartons, forks and napkins, I scoop out servings of tasty grilled vegetables with roasted garlic aioli, a fabulous pasta salad, Caesar salad with chicken and quinoa salad laced with plump dried cherries. The next table over offers wine, beer and ice-cold bottles of water. A large jar of Dutch girl donuts rests on the dessert table, the catering staff is just starting to prepare ice cream floats; a scoop of vanilla floating in your choice of Vernor’s, Faygo Root Beer, Orange or Red Pop, now that’s how we do it in Detroit!

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Passing the gorgeous mahogany Meijer clock, we make our way to the second floor; Out On The Town is in the Booth-Wilkinson Gallery. At the top of the stairs we hear the murmur of the crowd, a band plays in one of the galleries, the rooms are crowded, people stand in front of displays pointing, nodding and smiling. A collection of menu covers hang on the wall at the gallery entrance, some names are familiar, The Mauna Loa, Topinka’s, Dakota Inn, London Chop House. Others I have never heard of; Sapphire Room, Club Three 666, Mayfair, Blue Bird Inn, Tropics. The names create a sense of what Detroit was like back then; elegant, vibrant. Each section of the gallery highlights a different time period, from the Speakeasies of the Prohibition era, working men’s watering holes to the Jazz Clubs, Night Clubs and businessmen’s lunch spots. Vignettes are positioned behind glass, mannequins wear the fashions of the day, memorabilia such as menus, glasses, matchbooks and photos give a true sense of the time and place. Starting in the early days  a re-creation of the Woodbridge Tavern features a bar tender wearing a straw hat and apron, a butcher block table and seltzer bottles. The Flame Show Bar opened in 1949 and was hugely popular. Located on the corner of John R and Canfield some of the biggest entertainers of the day performed here; Billy Holiday, Ray Charles, T-Bone Walker, Louis Jordan, Della Reese, Etta James, BB King, Bo Diddly and Sam Cooke, amazing! We proceed through time and venues, jukeboxes and cigarette vending machines appear. Artifacts from nightclubs such as the Roostertail, Elmwood Club and 20 Grand Club are on display; did you know Detroit even had its own Playboy Club? A reproduction of London Chop House includes an old booth, signs and a couple of Hy Vogel’s infamous caricatures.

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Cliff Bells has set up a table off to the side, a bartender is mixing up craft cocktails, with a Manhattan in hand we hit the table of snacks Better Made has set up; pretzels, single serving bags of chips and shoestring potato chips all taste so good. Another table has an assortment of Greek finger foods; mini spinach pies, hummus, pita and salad, it looks to good to pass up. It is getting more crowded so we head down to the Streets of Old Detroit, this is probably the most popular permanent exhibit in the museum. We stroll past shop windows with bicycles and musical instruments, a showcase is filled with souvenir dishes and old Detroit postcards. A stop in the drugstore is a must, my favorite item is the antique Vernor’s dispenser. Old-fashioned street lamps light the narrow roads made of rock or logs, we pass the blacksmith, Fyfe Boots, Sanders, a barbershop and Dime store.

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We decide to take one more walk through before calling it a night. On the first floor a DJ is spinning records, modern versions of old songs, pretty cool. A large group of 20-somethings dressed to the nines arrives, all making their way to the main attraction of the evening. Back upstairs we take one last look around, we are reading about Kovac’s, Abicks, Cadieux Cafe and Anchor Bar when the Coney Islands show up. Large silver chafing dishes filled with hot dogs, buns and chili are set down on tables, chopped onions and mustard are readily available; within minutes everyone is indulging in one of Detroit’s most popular foods. What a way to end the night!

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DETROIT: Hidden Gems

24 Feb

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Nestled away on Woodward near the Palmer Woods neighborhood is one of Detroit’s hidden gems, La Dolce Vita. Serving superb Italian cuisine, the building goes unnoticed by most passersby, but don’t be fooled, the restaurants excellent reputation keeps the place packed most of the time. We are having an early dinner on Friday evening, I made a reservation in advance. We turn in behind the building and are greeted by a valet, Kris hands him a $5 dollar bill, we head inside as the Jeep is whisked away. The warmth of the building is soothing, the outdoor temperature is hovering at 5 degrees. The host takes us to our table, large chandeliers light the patio-looking room, archways separate the dining area from the bar. Everything on the menu sounds delicious, we make our selections and nibble on fresh-baked bread. Windows overlook the garden area, the snow is piled high, in the summer there isn’t a prettier place in the city to have a meal than in their courtyard. Service is impeccable, our glasses are never empty and empty dishes are cleared quickly. Kris is having the Petto Di Pollo Alla Sorrentina; sauteed chicken breast, roasted eggplant, mozzarella and a veal-demi marinara sauce to die for. Truly outstanding, the chicken is so tender, no knife is needed. I ordered the Gnocchi Alla Bava, being a fan of both pasta and potatoes, I cannot resist. Without a doubt this is the best gnocchi I have ever had; tender pillows of heavenly deliciousness smothered in a six cheese cream sauce, I found myself grinning with every bite. We definitely have to come here more often!

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We have tickets to see the UDM Theatre Company perform Somebody/Nobody by Jane Martin at the Marygrove Theatre; this is the second hidden gem of the evening. In the early 1970’s the U of D Theatre Company and Marygrove consolidated their Fine and Performing Arts departments, they updated the existing theatre by extending the stage to accommodate larger productions. First, let’s talk about the building. Marygrove is an independent, Catholic, Liberal Arts College. The Liberal Arts Building, designed by Oscar D Bohlen, is a soaring Tudor Gothic structure that was built in 1927 of Bedford stone. The building contains classrooms, offices, studios, a library, bookstore, theatre and Sacred Heart Chapel. It is filled with traditional Gothic features such as pointed arches, ribbed vaults, high ceilings, carved decoration, corbels, capitals, tranceried windows…..ah, the beauty of it all!

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We have time to wander before the play begins; Tavernelle Rose marble runs from floor to ceiling in the main lobby, long arched corridors with gray Missouri marble floors lead us past classrooms. Brass lettering hangs on classroom doors identifying each subject, doorknobs and hardware are detailed, ornate and original as are the light fixtures. The chapel doors are open, we quietly amble in. Chandeliers line each side of the chapel, the ceiling of wood beams brings warmth to the neutral colored space. The altar, inset under another Gothic arch is elaborate, highly detailed, amazing. Candles flicker in glass containers giving the room a sense of peace. On the walk to the theatre we pass hand-carved Carrara marble statues tucked into niches in the wall, there are 8 throughout the building. Patterns repeat throughout the interior in stone, wood, plaster bronze and wrought iron; French fleur-de-lis, Oak leaves, acorns, harp, laurel wreath and the Cross, little has changed in the building over the last 87 years. It smells like school to me, books, paper…. posters are hung on walls, the heels of my shoes make clicking sounds as we walk.

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Inside the theatre we are shown to our seats, renovated in 2002 it radiates simple elegance. Classically styled with a proscenium stage and sprung floor it has everything budding thespians could want; dressing rooms, green room, stage manager room, rehearsal studio and box office. Wood panels are dark, the ceiling a soothing shade of blue, bare light bulbs glow in detailed metal fixtures, all very quaint. The lights are dimmed and the show begins, set in an L A apartment, we immediately meet the lead character Loli; a country girl looking for fame in the big city. Quickly, Sheena appears, a Hollywood starlet grown tired of the nonsense that comes with being a celebrity. Each longing for the other’s life, they form a unique friendship. Along the way we are introduced to an agent named Galaxy, a stalker and cousin Joe Don; the play has really funny moments and some hilarious one-liners. We love coming to this theatre, simple to get to, easy parking and beautiful, intimate surroundings.

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Detroit: Belle Isle Clubbing…..

17 Feb

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It’s official, on February 10 historic Belle Isle became Michigan’s 102nd State Park. The DNR will now manage the island, the state will work with the Belle Isle Conservancy and the Belle Isle Park Advisory Committee in decision-making and upcoming projects. I find it very exciting! The DNR has already begun removing felled and hazardous trees, a shelter has been re-roofed and several picnic tables refurbished. In the next 6 months we should see restoration and reopening of restrooms, clearing of debris on trails, expansion of picnic areas, new signage and lighting, this is only the beginning….YES!

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Today is Shiver On The River, all of the buildings on the island are open to the public, tours are being given at The Detroit Yacht Club. The DYC is one of the oldest and most prestigious private clubs in North America, located on an 11 acre private island in the Detroit River, the 96,000 sq ft Mediterranean-style building was designed by George Mason (Masonic Temple, Gem Theatre, Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island). The DYC was founded in 1868, this building is their fifth clubhouse, it was dedicated in 1923, the same year the concrete McArthur bridge opened, connecting the island to the city. C’mon let’s have a look!

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A long red carpet leads us to the front entrance, the building is lovely, custom-made revolving doors lead us to the first floor. We are greeted by our tour guide then head up the staircase with its gorgeous banister in the main lobby. In front of us windows overlook the Detroit River, floral carpet leads in all directions, Pewabic Tile medallions are placed high along the walls, a nautical theme is carried out throughout the building. First stop, the Trophy Room, the ornate fireplace takes center stage here, it was hand-carved in place, up close I spy a boat, anchor and rope among the carvings. Above it a painting maps out the private island’s place in the river. Trophy cases are filled with large silver cups, photos and memorabilia. Plaster walls are textured, common for the time period, wall sconces and chandelier are original. We are led to Peacock Alley, named after Peacock Alley in the Waldorf Astoria where society ladies gathered for tea, this stretch of hallway oozes elegance. The Pewabic tile floor gleams, chandeliers hang by thin chains in a line, golden leaves and roses, they are delicate, feminine, and formerly inhabited Rose Terrace. Paintings line the wall, at one time this area was called the DYC Art Gallery. 

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The indoor swimming pool is gorgeous, Olympic size, every square inch is covered in Pewabic Tile. Mary Chase Perry Stratton was a club member and agreed to provide all of the tile when the club was built; she retained control of all design and placement of tile within the building. Huge windows bring the outdoors in, the water sparkles in the light, colored tiles create an illusion of lanes across the floor of the pool. Walls are tiled half way up, a border of rectangular wave tile surrounds the room, individual hand painted tiles add personality; swans, fish and water scenes. The room is warm, chaise lounges linger pool-side, for a moment I forget it is February. 

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The Ballroom is the largest room in the clubhouse, 3-stories high with a spectacular wood beam ceiling, it is enchanting. I feel like I have wandered into a castle in a far-away land; staff members are busy setting up for what could only be a Fairy Tale wedding. The room is expansive; a gentleman sits at the baby grand piano, music quietly fills the air. The fireplace is enormous, it too was carved in place, the sailboat above a reminder of our proximity to the water. Circular chandeliers softly light the room and reflect off the polished wood floor, my mouth is agape as I take it all in, Kris is engrossed in picture-taking. Reluctantly, we move on to the Library, it is just one beautiful room after another, wood-paneled walls, built-in bookshelves and cozy seating areas complete with table lamps invite visitors to curl up with a good book. Passing through the bar area we are told it was originally a porch, a portrait of Gar Wood at age 70 hangs on the wall. The dining room is exquisite; detailed plaster work and terrazzo floors, the room was recently restored. A splendid fountain was discovered behind one of the walls during renovations, today it is out in the open for all to see. Bronze statues rest on tables in the lobby of the dining room, donated by Col. A Victory Seymor MD, he was a club member and surgeon.

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At one time the Board Room and Billiard room were located on the third floor, the space was converted to a meeting room in 1960, the highlight of the room is the doors that open up to the spectator balcony which overlooks the Ballroom. Here we get up close to the ornate, well-crafted, hand-painted beams we saw from the Ballroom floor, they are stunning. Boarding the elevator (added in 1960) we take it down to the first level where locker rooms, fitness center and Binnacle are located. We wander down a long hall, photos of past Commodores in custom frames cover the walls. Flags from other Yacht Clubs where members have visited wrap around the top of the bar, pictures of club history and historical boats hang on the Grill’s walls. FYI: the private island the DYC is built on was man-made…at that time Detroit was in the process of building skyscrapers downtown, the dirt was removed, then taken over to Belle Isle to create the island the clubhouse rests on today. Our tour guide was a former Commodore, he was filled with interesting stories and information that really made the history of the building come alive!

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Time to grab some lunch; a fundraiser for the Belle Isle Conservancy called “Hot Soup” is being held at the Flynn Pavilion; Kris drank hot chocolate here when he was a lad, I have never been inside the building, we are curious to check it out. Built in 1949, this single story, stone facade building is often credited to Eero Saarinen, in fact, the actual architect is J Robert F Swanson. A one time partner of Eliel and Eero Saarinen, he left the firm and started Swanson Associates in 1947. His wife Pipsan Saarinen (you got it, daughter and sister of the previously mentioned Eliel and Eero) oversaw the interior designs. Built to provide shelter and amenities for Summer and Winter activities, the building is a wonderful example of Mid Century Modern Design.

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Inside we are awestruck by the knotty pine plank ceiling and beams, the back wall is a grayish-colored stone that surrounds a wood fireplace surround, it’s like we’ve wandered into some cool Modern lodge somewhere up north! Horizontal bands of casement windows line the length of each wall, one side overlooks the Lake Takoma Lagoon, the other the park itself, we are stunned by what good condition everything is in. To the left big pots of soup, trays of Avalon Bread and slices of Dangerously Delicious Pies beckon to us, Stella Cafe is providing the hot chocolate. Each of us has a bowl of vegetarian chili, bread and a white chocolate Macadamia cookie, everything is delicious! What a treat the day has been, there is no end to the amazing things that can be found right here in Detroit.

DETROIT: Checkin’ Out the Fisher…

10 Feb

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Detroit has suddenly become tour-riffic; you can see the city on foot, bicycle, bus, boat or Segway. You can learn about history, architecture, where to eat or have a cocktail, you can even go behind the scenes… Today we are touring “Detroit’s largest art object” otherwise known as the Fisher Building. Built in 1928, designed by (all together now….) Albert Kahn, paid for by the Fisher brothers as a gift to the city, the building is an Art Deco masterpiece. First some stats: The building stands 28 stories tall on W Grand Blvd, it has two 11-story wings, 641 bronze elevator doors and 1,275 miles of electrical and telephone wire. It was built in 15 months by Michigan contractors and workers.

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Pure Detroit is hosting their free weekly tour, we meet our guide Ryan in the lobby, 3-stories tall with a barrel-vaulted hand-painted ceiling, it is breath-taking. Today, in a special exhibit, a group of giant paper mache heads are scattered about the main floor vying for our attention. On loan from The Parade Company, they were originally created by artists in Viareggio Italy, some date back to the 1940’s. Two clown heads greet us first, painted cartoon style, the colors are bright and glossy. Continuing on we meet a pair of reindeer, an alligator and a blue hippo, a purple bug and a bumble bee are super cute.  Further on we come face to face with the Pirates of the Big Head collection, finely detailed, they sport tattoos, gold earrings and a treasure chest. I can see the old Italian newsprint in areas where the paint has chipped away. Many are in need of restoration, the exhibit hopes to encourage individuals to ‘adopt’ a big head, making donations to support the cost of restoration.

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The tour moves onward down the long corridor, we learn the building is constructed of Minnesota granite and Maryland marble. The original theater entrance lobby with it’s fluted marble pillars is stunning; in total, 40 varieties of marble from all of the world line the interior of the building. Near the Grand Blvd entrance, three original mosaics created by Geza Morati are as beautiful as the day they were completed, a brass piece in the floor is roped off, saving it from the wear of foot traffic. On the third floor we marvel at the frescos covering the ceiling; flora, fauna, hemlock, muses and red-haired cherubs were designed by Geza Maroti and painted by Antonio and Tomas de Lorenzo, at this level we can actually touch the arches, chandeliers seem only an arms length away. Ryan tells us the back in the day the ceiling was washed with buttermilk. He goes on to explain the symbolism of the eagles, the inclusion of commerce, transportation, art, agriculture and how the building reflected the new purely American style.

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A single elevator leads to the 26th floor, we must divide into groups as the elevator cannot take everyone at once. The doors open, we find ourselves in the Reception Room; back in the day floors 25-27 had a dining room, kitchen, living room and private elevator as this is where the Fisher brothers had their offices. At one time Persian rugs and massive hand-carved desks rested on the floor, very masculine. Dark walnut paneling, scrolled plaster ceiling, a fireplace and bronze chandeliers remain, I can’t say the same for the rest of the floor. Drop ceilings cap off empty rooms, but then there’s 360 degree view of the Detroit skyline. As we move from window to window taking in the sights Ryan tells us the Fisher building was originally topped with gold-leaf faced tile. During WWII it was feared the glimmering tower would become a target for bombings, it was covered with an asphalt material; after the war, the tower was covered with green terracotta tile as you see today. The Fisher family sold the building in 1962, in 2001 the Farbman Group of Southfield purchased the structure, an interesting bit of info: David Farbman, President and CEO of the Farbman Group has a family connection to the Fisher, Albert Kahn was his Great-Grand Uncle!

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The tour ends, back on the main floor we stop in at Stella Cafe for a cup of coffee. Recently remodeled using reclaimed wood the shop is bright and pleasant. A series of 3 yellow lamps dangle above the counter, the same marble floor graces the space. Stella roasts their own coffee beans, in addition they offer a selection of teas, juices, sweets, yogurt, soup and sandwiches. We drink our coffee surrounded by the beauty of the building. Vera Jane is just around the corner, offering a unique selection of handbags, lingerie, clothing and accessories, I like to stop in anytime we are in the building. Workshop is the latest retail addition, the shop sells handmade furniture created from Detroit reclaimed lumber. Vacant houses are disassembled, the wood is removed, sanded and refinished, James Willer of Reclaim Detroit and Kevin Borsay of Pure Detroit, then create furniture from the pieces. On display are dining tables, benches, shelving and coffee tables; each piece comes with the address of the house the wood came from, cool. I also love the wallpaper which comes from The Detroit Wallpaper Co.

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We stop in at Pure Detroit to say thanks for the tour, referred to as “The Store of All Things Detroit”,  husband and wife team Kevin and Shawn were the first to create a totally Detroit-centric shop. Through the years they have grown from a single store to three, each in a landmark building, and have added Stella and Rowland Cafe to the family.Their passion for the city is obvious in everything they do. We wander among all of the clothing, books, art, Pewabic Pottery and snacks, near the counter is an awesome model of the Fisher built from Legos, groovy! Kris purchases a hat and we are off…..

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The tour and shopping have left us starving, we park in the lot at Third Street Bar to grab some lunch. The room is dimly lit, tables are made from split logs, there’s a fireplace to the left, above it logs have been sliced into thin pieces and attached to the wall creating interesting patterns. It is late afternoon, the skee ball, dart board and shuffleboard table are still. We are here for some Dangerously Delicious Pie. I walk to the back corner where I find a wall- mounted menu of savory and sweet pies, on a table, a doorbell-like button  says “press for service”, so I do. I place the order, pay the man and join Kris back at the table. Before long, two pie tins piled high with leafy green salad and a piece of pie arrive. The BBQ pork is unbelievably delicious, the meat just falls apart, it is juicy and flavorful, the crust is to die for. The ham and cheese quiche is divine, it has the same wonderful crust; you get a nice slice of pie and a generous portion of salad for just 6 bucks. As much as we would like to try a piece of one of the dessert pies, we just can’t do it. The bar is open daily, pies are served for lunch, dinner and late night, we’ll be back………

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Grand Rapids: Check it out !

3 Feb

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After a peaceful night’s sleep, we pad down to the main floor of the City Flat’s Hotel for breakfast in City Sen Lounge; not being early risers, we have the place to ourselves. A table by the window affords us a view of the going’s on up and down Monroe Center St. The sun shines brightly in the cloudless sky, folks are dressed a little lighter today as we are expecting above normal temps. Breakfast arrives, Kris is having waffles topped with macerated blackberries and a dollop of vanilla whipped cream. For myself, City Benny, poached eggs, ham and béarnaise sauce on brioche and a side of salted baked potatoes, yum!

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We take a detour through the building on the way back to our room, the sign says Ballroom at City Flats, we want to check it out. Up the double stairway we go to 77 Monroe Center, the room is stunning, not at all what we expected. Gorgeous wood panels, beams stenciled in a floral design, elegant archways line the room, columns and a balcony. The room is being prepared for a wedding later in the evening, what a snazzy place for a reception or party!

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We are checked out of the hotel, we leave the Jeep parked and walk the short distance to the Grand Rapids Art Museum (GRAM). The 125,000 sq. ft. Contemporary-style building opened October 2007, it is the world’s first Gold Certified LEED art museum. Stacked 3-stories tall we ascend the elongated stairway to the third floor where the permanent collection is on display. Light floods the galleries through glass skylight lanterns, walls are white, floors pale-colored wood, hallways are vast. Alongside permanent pieces we find selected works of art from ArtPrize 2013, chosen from 9 different venues we see paintings, drawings, photographs, sculpture and textile art. My favorite piece on the floor is by Sophia Collier, she carves water-like surfaces from acrylic block, it’s like looking at an actual piece of the water’s surface!   

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The second floor is home to temporary exhibits, featured today: Masterpieces of American Landscape Painting 1820-1950. Pieces represent America through the eyes of painters such as Thomas Cole, Martin Johnson Heade, Winslow Homer and Georgia O’Keeffe, a total of 48 paintings on loan from the prestigious collection of the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. Large gold-framed landscapes hang on gallery walls, they are absolutely lovely. 20 works of art are on a 5-year loan, pieces are by well-know artists such as Picasso, Renoir, Rodin and Mary Cassatt grace the museum. A pair of giant Orchids stand tall near the stairway, everybody wants their picture taken in front of them. We study Joey Ruiter’s Objects in Motion; prototypes of bicycles, cars and a motorcycle…. quite interesting. We both like the Modern Furniture Collection, after all, Grand Rapids is Furniture City.

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We cross over to the other side of Monroe Center to catch a coffee at Madcap. With a fine reputation for roasting, retailing and wholesaling specialty coffees, we thought we’d try ’em out. It is definitely one of those places where the hip crowd hangs, not to worry, regular folks are equally welcome. It’s a nice space, bright, lots of windows. As soon as we get inside we are treated to the scent of fresh ground coffee, burlap bags of coffee beans are stacked on the floor, the beverage menu is behind the coffee bar. Kris orders a cold brew, while I go with an iced mocha, we take a seat and plan where to go next.

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Outside the sky is the color of summer, we walk back to the ice rink, families crowd the ice, the littlest of skaters use a walker-like object until they get the hang of it. The architecture downtown is marvelous, much of it Late-Victorian in style, buildings are ornate, the Ledyard (the first location of the Grand Rapids Public Library) is outstanding! We find ourselves in front of the Amway Grand Plaza Hotel…..never pass up an opportunity to go inside! Originally called The Pantlind Hotel, it was built in 1913, know for its elegance and grandeur, it has one of the world’s largest gold-leaf ceilings. Purchased by Amway, the original building was refurbished, a glass tower added, it re-opened in 1981. The lobby is magnificent; the gold-leaf ceiling glistens in the light of the three impressive crystal chandeliers. Poinsettia surround the centrally located fountain, potted palms flank the room, wood is dark walnut, furniture is arranged in cozy settings. We peek into the ballroom, Corinthian columns and a sculptured ceiling are straight from a bygone era, the chandeliers even match the ceiling pattern.

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Gerald R Ford was the 38th President of the United States, serving from 1974 to 1977, he was the only President from Michigan. The museum bearing his name sits along the Grand River, covering his life from childhood to star football player, Naval officer to US Congressman, Vice President to President, it tells the fascinating story of Grand Rapid’s favorite son. Just inside the museum stands a section of the Berlin Wall, Christmas trees line the lobby area, a large Seal of the President of the United States hangs on a wall. We begin our tour by watching a short film on Gerald Ford in the crescent-shaped theater, it will give us the background on what we will be seeing in the exhibits upstairs.

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On the second floor the mood is set for the 1970’s; Fads such as the Pet Rock, Mood Rings, platform shoes, 8-tracks and Disco were alive and well. Photos of Janis Joplin, John Lennon and Yoko Ono represent the music of the time, Posters feature Peace signs, videos chronicle war protests and marches, these were turbulent times. Displays take us through his youth, born Leslie Lynch King, his mother later married Gerald R Ford, whom he was named after. His life was earmarked by hard work and the successes that came from it, he served 25 years as the Representative from Michigan’s 5th Congressional district. Ford was the first person appointed to the Vice Presidency after Spiro Agnew resigned amid controversy, he became President August 9, 1974 when Nixon resigned. He is the first and only person to have served as both Vice President and President without being elected. The museum is engrossing, well laid out, it is easy to follow and understand, the life-size replica of the Oval Office and Cabinet Room are pretty cool. I have to say, I think anybody visiting Grand Rapids should make it a point to come to the museum.

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The day before we passed The Grand Woods Lounge, it looked super charming, so today we are having lunch here. Resembling a cabin up north, the interior has a wilderness feel to it. Log and stone walls, several fireplaces, it is modeled after restaurants in the Pacific Northwest. We are seated at a table near a fireplace, through a door we can see the outdoor heated porch, I imagine it’s packed on the weekends. The menu consists of sharable appetizers, salads, sandwiches and entrees; our waitress is quick to take our order and bring our drinks. The Rodeo Burger is a 1/2 pound patty topped with crisp bacon, melted cheddar cheese, haystack onions and a tangy BBQ sauce, it is prepared perfectly. Alongside the burger is a generous portion of fries and a side of slaw, delicious.

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Our last stop for the afternoon is Founders Brewing Company, ranked in the top four breweries in the world, they recently opened a brand new Tap Room. We park in front of the building, we can hardly believe our eyes, it is late December, the outdoor patio is packed with customers. Inside, the German Beer Hall-inspired Tap Room is even more crowded, the room is gorgeous, the high, wood beam ceiling puts you in the mind of Germany. A glass wall allows patrons to look in on the brewing process, I love that. The line to order beer and food seems endless, we try our luck outdoors. A group of gentlemen make room for us at a table, heat lamps and fire pits keep the temperature comfortable. Before we know it our pints arrive, we are each trying a different type of Stout, both are delicious. There is a constant flow of people coming and going, the food that passes us by looks tasty…….next time. We stop in the gift shop, T-shirts bear the names of their most popular beers, clothing and accessories wear the Founders badge. People come from all over for the beer and a souvenir. We have had a wonderful weekend in Grand Rapids, but the time has come to head back to the D, we’ll be back!

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Grand Rapids: Grand Getaway !

27 Jan

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Today we are heading West across Michigan, to a thriving city named Best Place to Raise a Family by Forbes Magazine, 1 of 10 best vacation cities for beer lovers, home to five of the world’s leading office furniture companies, 2010’s most sustainable midsize city and Michigan’s second-largest Metropolis, any guesses? That’s right, Grand Rapids. With its picturesque location on the Grand River, growing foodie culture and the Art Prize competition, the city is receiving positive accolades in newspapers and magazines across the country. Once you visit you’ll understand what all the buzz is about.

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We begin our visit in East Grand Rapids, an area called Gaslight Village. Once a resort area complete with an amusement park, theatre, pavilion and steamboat rides on Reeds Lake, the land was redeveloped into Gaslight Village after the park closed and fell into disrepair. Today it is a charming little village of boutique shopping, dining, public spaces and places to purchase everyday necessities. We park on Wealthy Street in front of Ramona’s Table, where we will be having lunch. Inside the contemporary interior a corner fireplace heats the room, we order at the counter then have a seat in the sunroom. We have a lovely view of the streetscape, the sky is blue and the sun is shining, the sidewalk is busy with the hustle and bustle of pedestrians. Our food arrives at the table, the Strawberry salad is topped with sweet strawberries, candied walnuts, blue cheese and a homemade strawberry vinaigrette. The Venetian Swing sandwich is layered with ham, brie, greens, tomato and an apricot wasabi dressing served on grilled sourdough bread. They were nice enough to split the sandwich and pasta salad,  brie gently oozes from the cut side of the sandwich, I had to take a bite, yum! The team at Ramona’s concentrate on local food and flavors, everything is homemade, and delicious.

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We join the foot traffic along Wealthy and pop in and out of shops along the way, by the time we reached Mary Ann’s Chocolates, we figured it was time for dessert. It’s a darling shop with a dazzling gold-colored tin ceiling, candy fills glass cases running the length of the store, from chocolate to candied fruit slices take your pick. Kris and I head straight for the chocolate, one truffle each, they are excellent. Continuing our walk, we check out the Christmas Tree on display in the public space, in the summer people gather to enjoy the fountain, there’s always something going on here.

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Back in the Jeep we drive west into downtown Grand Rapids, over to an antique district on Century Ave SW. A huge brick building stands five-stories tall, windows line the facade, a smallish sign near the center of the building says “Antiques”. We begin at the far end, a place called Buckley & Douglas, it doesn’t seem much warmer inside than out, after a few moments I no longer notice as my attention is captured by the vast variety if items on display. Resting on worn shelving vintage blenders and toasters have been re-purposed into whimsical lights….. slick, we meander across the worn wood floor, an old Standard Oil sign, antique typewriter, desks, and tool cabinets fill the room. Some of the pieces are in nice original condition, others have been spruced up or re-worked, some just left in their rusty, patina glory. Remnants of a laboratory are found throughout the area; beakers, petri dishes, glass tubes and microscopes, stuff I don’t usually see. Kris points out the clever use of window panes as a space divider, cool.

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The next shop, Lost & Found, is an unexpected surprise, with most of the pieces ranging from the 1950’s through the 70’s, we are right in our element! At first glance it looks as if we have wandered back in time to a furniture showroom, pieces are grouped into room displays complete with lamps, wall hangings and accessories, I can’t even decide what direction to go first there’s so much I want to look at. Taking our time, we explore the extensive collection of pieces; lighting, bar stools, radios, cabinets, dishes and more. I could stay here all day, but there’s more to see…..The next couple of shops in the building are more of what you’d expect from an antique store; depression glass, dishes, figurines, books and magazines, decorative items and small pieces.

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The new Downtown Market opened just a few months ago to great fanfare. Built using reused, recycled and re-purposed materials the end result is a gorgeous two-story building filled with artisan foods, there’s even a greenhouse on the roof! We park by what will be the outdoor market in season, inside, the building has an open, airy feel, everything is a neutral color except for the splash of lime green accents. Lighting is easy on the eyes, there’s sort of a Zen feel to the place, vendors are grouped into neat spaces sans walls, it smells good in here. We begin by strolling past fresh produce, a fish market, and meats. Field & Fire Bakery has samples of whole grain bread for shoppers to taste, chocolate, a taco stand, juice bar and fresh pasta all are worthy of our consideration, but it is the Sweetie-licious Bake Shop that stops us in our tracks. Think Betty Crocker doused in pink….Vintage recipe books, aprons, rolling pins and doilies decorate the counters, did I mention the Easy-Bake Oven? Pie is the specialty here, but the oversize cookies and cupcakes appear equally delicious. It is snack time, the decision of what kind of pie to get was tough, Pumpkin Cheesecake won. What is pie without ice cream? Kris is heading over to Love’s Ice Cream for a scoop while I grab a couple of coffee’s from Simpatico Coffee, we meet at a table on the second floor. From here we overlook the entire market as we indulge in gourmet goodness from the local vendors.

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We are staying downtown at the City Flats Hotel on Monroe Center, the building, formerly the legendary Fox Jewelers Building, has been transformed into a 5-story, 28 room boutique hotel. What makes it unique is its LEED Gold Certification; the furniture and decor was all designed and manufactured with local materials and rapidly renewable resources. The majority of all finished products were manufactured in Holland MI. We like the hotel for its great decor, rooms are super quiet, the bedding is the most comfortable of anyplace we have stayed, they have a full service restaurant and bar on the first floor, and it’s centrally located downtown. Once we have checked in and relaxed for a bit we hit the street in search of dinner. It didn’t take long to find what we were looking for, XO Asian Cuisine drew us right in. It is a weekend, the restaurant is busy, we are seated quickly and given thick menus, the food on surrounding tables looks wonderful. Kris chooses a specialty sushi of the house, I go with Pad Thai, we will share both dishes. The sushi is fantastic, edible flowers decorate the plate, the noodle dish has a unique seasoning here and is quite tasty, when we can eat no more we surrender our chopsticks.

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Walking along Monroe Center St we follow the glow of the blue LED lights to the public skating rink, it is jammed with skaters. A long line forms of folks waiting to take the ice, skilled skaters show their stuff in the center of the ice as the less experienced hang onto the side railing. The snow-covered grass glows under the blue and white lights. The scene is beautiful, festive; trees throughout downtown are smothered in lights, horse pulled carriages clippity-clop over the brick streets, winter in Michigan.

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Back at our hotel, we stop at the bar for a night-cap and chat with the bartender, we talk about all the exciting changes taking place in the city. Time to get some sleep, we have so much more to do tomorrow.

DETROIT: Boats, Bagels and Beans ??

13 Jan

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When the weather turns cold we head indoors to local museums to see the latest exhibits. Today we are on Belle Isle visiting the Dossin Great Lakes Museum; closed for five months for renovation we’re excited to see what’s new. The museum is dedicated to telling the story of maritime history on the Great Lakes and the Detroit River spanning 300 years; everything from shipping fleets and industry to social history. After parking in the lot we stop at the Miss Pepsi Pavilion for a look at the first hydroplane racing boat to top 100 mph. Raced by the Dossin family in the 1950’s, she’s quite a beauty; wood is varnished to a high shine, paint scheme is red, white and blue, the dashboard surprisingly ordinary. On the lawn nearby lies the bow anchor of the Edmund Fitzgerald, it’s huge! 

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Once inside I am happy to see the “Gothic Room” looking better than ever; removed from the passenger steamer City Of Detroit III before it was scrapped, the room exemplifies the golden age of Great Lakes cruise ships. The vessel carried passengers between Detroit and Cleveland or Detroit and Buffalo, the Gothic room itself was originally three times this size and even had a pipe organ. The elaborate English oak carvings are done in true Gothic design, stained glass windows and unique chandeliers exude elegance. Display cases in the room contain memorabilia such as dishes, schedules and renderings of the ship.  No matter how many times we come here I am still in awe of the beauty of this room!

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Further into the museum old exhibits have been revamped and new ones installed, here we find hands on activities; quite popular is the interactive video display simulating a speedboat racing down the Detroit River, there’s an 18th century re-creation of a canoe that you can climb into as the early settlers did. The newest permanent exhibit called Built By The River explains the ways in which Detroiter’s have used the rivers and lakes around us, did you know that at one time the Detroit River was the busiest waterway in the world or that Detroit shipyards built more vessels that any other city in the region? All pretty cool stuff! A River’s Roar will be on display until April, I highly recommend checking it out. It’s all about the history of hydroplane racing in Detroit. For over 100 years the Detroit River and Belle Isle have featured some of the finest racing in the country during the Gold Cup–the oldest trophy in Motorsports. Boats, trophies and artifacts along with vintage programs, pins and buttons are displayed behind glass. Trophies are quite elaborate and elegant, photos of racers such as Gar Wood, Guy Lombardo, Wild Bill Cantrell and Bill Muncey hang on walls along with stories about each man.

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We stop to look at the showcases filled with model ships then make our way to the former pilot house of the SS William Clay Ford, one of the city’s most noted freighters. From here we look out across the river to Ontario Canada, the sunlight dancing on the river’s surface. The entire interior is painted mint green, children love to pretend they are captain standing at the ship’s wheel. A voice comes over a speaker, we are able to listen to communication between ships on the river, you can also watch the action on the river right from home by clicking on to the Detroit River Watch Webcam.

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The Detroit Institute of Bagels on Michigan Ave opened Thanksgiving week and has been busy ever since. Reworking and adding on to an existing building, the end result is a cozy space made up of exposed red brick, beam ceiling, white walls and blonde wood floor. Tables line the perimeter of the space, we hang our coats on chairs in front of a sunny window then place our order. A handwritten menu board hangs behind the counter, metal baskets overflow with plain, sesame, poppy, salt, cinnamon raisin and everything bagels–made that morning they are boiled and then baked. There are six regular and small batch flavors such as bacon cheddar or rosemary olive oil available each day. While we wait for our sandwiches to be made we peek into the open kitchen, it gleams in white and stainless steel, the bakers are finished for the day. We have ordered two different sandwiches, each taking a half we dig in; the ham, egg and cheese on a salt bagel is delicious, the bagel tender with enough filling to make it hearty. The turkey, bacon, avocado is a handful, lots of textures working together; chewy bagel, crispy bacon, creamy avocado–yum! Definitely get a new dill pickle with your sandwich, they’re excellent! Open everyday except Tuesday, give ’em a try.

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Often we like to end the day with coffee, located just a few blocks away we choose Anthology Coffee in the Ponyride building on Vermont St. Outside the building a small sandwich board reads ‘Coffee’, an arrow points to a wall covered in black and white graffiti. The space inside is stark; cinderblock walls, four singular light bulbs hang above a simple counter. A chalkboard menu is surrounded by a woodplank wall, a barista is busy at work measuring and weighing coffee beans. I walk over to the counter as Kris explores the space, I order a decaf for me and an iced coffee for Kris. On the tiny counter rests a coffee grinder, scale, pots of hot water, paper filters and a variety of glass bottles. I watch with interest as the beans are ground, then placed in a filter where hot water is poured over them, I love the scent of fresh ground coffee, the process takes several minutes. As Kris wanders over to grab his drink he notices a plate of triangular bar cookies, we each take one, they go perfect with our coffee. Anthology keeps it simple: Source Roast Brew Tasty Coffee. You can’t ask for more than that!

Packard Proving Grounds

14 Dec

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Detroit’s rich automotive and manufacturing history spreads far beyond the city limits. Today we are in Macomb County, Shelby Township to be exact, visiting the Packard Proving Grounds Historic Site. In 1927 the Packard Motor Car Company began constructing a testing facility on 560 acres of farmland in Shelby Twp. Designed by (don’t you know it) Albert Kahn, the steel-framed buildings were state-of-the-art in their day. The Lodge was home to proving grounds manager Charles Vincent and his family, with the start of WWII, the family left the Lodge in 1942. Packard continued to use the property until 1958, it was then sold to Curtiss-Wright, who in turn sold it to Ford Motor Company in 1961. By 1998 Ford no longer had use for the property. After a long series of negotiations the acquisition of the total site was a combination of a gift from Ford Motor Land Development Corp. and purchase by the Packard Motor Car Foundation.

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It is a chilly late Autumn day, a combination open house and car show is being held on the property. A line of cars has formed gaining entrance to the event, rows of vehicles are parked on the front lawn, the familiar scent of exhaust fumes fill the air. Everywhere I look people are milling about, vintage Packards are parked along the garage area, they are beautiful, elegant, dazzling. Many have Art Deco style designs and trim, colors range from rich jewel tones to creamy neutrals, spare tires are mounted on the side like a decoration, hood ornaments are large and showy, and then there’s the chrome……..  Most models had a letter or a number for a name: Model K, N, the Dominant Six or Super Eight, later they used names like the Caribbean, Clipper and Hawk. The vehicles are a testament to the era they were designed and equally as attractive today.

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The Lodge is open for tours today. We enter through the kitchen, renovation is an ongoing process, the vintage sink, stove and refrigerator are from the 1920’s. Passing through the sitting room it is pointed out that the fireplace brick was laid in Kahn’s signature herringbone design, the foyer floor is original Pewabic tile. Upstairs we find a series of bedrooms, the Vincent’s had three daughters, the youngest, Roberta is living in Arizona today, but has been back to visit the house. Windows are leaded glass, photos, books and Packard advertisements are displayed, wet plaster is under repair, yellow caution tape abounds. The master bedroom overlooks the main gate and the Princeton Elms that line the boulevard. We come to a hallway leading past several dormitory-style rooms, these were used by visitors to the Proving Grounds. Most interesting is the Radio Room. Mr. Vincent was a ham radio enthusiast; he designed and built the equipment used in the first successful air-to-ground radio-phone communication which was done at the Proving Grounds in 1929. The tour ends back downstairs in the living room, currently used as a Board Room for meetings, the room is similar to its original appearance, complete with fireplace.

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Back outside we cross the courtyard to the Repair Garage, once used as an experimental and engineering laboratory, today  the Johnny Trudell Orchestra is playing big band favorites, Packard’s are randomly parked throughout the building garnering much deserved attention. On view are a number of engines complete with that signature Packard script, the 1956 showroom display chassis has drawn a crowd, Kris and I catch a glimpse of the stonework that surrounded the main entrance at the original Packard building in Detroit, safe at last. On loan for the day from the Algonac/Clay Twp Historical Society is the Miss America X. On September 20, 1932 Commodore Gar Wood set a speed record of 108.48 knots for a nautical mile and 124.71 knots for a statue mile. Powered by four 12 cylinder Packard engines, they are arranged as a two bank unit of two 24-cylinder engines creating  6,400 hp. A platform allows us to get an up-close view of Miss America X, she’s a beauty! Dials, gauges and levers cover the interior, the engine gleams in orange paint, the wooden hull is varnished to a high shine. We’ll have to visit the museum soon.

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Behind the building an elevated water storage tank stands high above the proving grounds, a sight familiar to me since I was a little girl. Just beyond sits a 4,000 sq ft hangar, now called the Lindbergh Hangar. In 1929 Col Charles Lindbergh visited the site to test-fly a Packard-powered airplane. At the back of the property the original timing stand and a 458 ft section of the test track remain. The second level of the timing stand provides a panoramic view of the proving grounds. Back in the day we would be overlooking a 2.5 mile oval track specifically built for high-speed testing. They say it was so well-engineered that drivers could travel around the banked curves in excess of 100 mph without holding the steering wheel. In 1928 Leon Duray set a World’s record for a closed course of 148 + mph, making the test oval the fastest in the World. Volunteers are taking visitors for a ride around the grounds in vintage Packards, we go for a spin, the drive ends and we are dropped off near the gate. Thanks to the support and donations by members of the old-car hobby, automotive historians and the local community, this site has been preserved and is now on the National Register of Historic Places; this is more than Detroit history, it is the history of our Nation.

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Bad Brad’s BBQ is located nearby on 23 Mile Rd, serving up delicious beef brisket and pork shoulder, the restaurant is a wonderful addition to the area. The interior is a combination of wood planks, brick and corrugated metal, the main dining room offers tables, booths and bar seating, they also have an awesome patio. Meats are steeped in fruit wood and hickory smoke for up to 14 hours, everything on the menu is made from scratch. Our Classic BBQ sandwich is piled high with sliced brisket, a wooden skewer stuck through the middle holds it together. House made sauces are on the table, I recommend trying each and every one. The kettle style BBQ chips go nicely with the sandwich, a side of cornbread is a must!

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Stony Creek Metropark is just a short drive from here, so we decide to extend the day with a walk and visit to the Nature Center. Much of Stony Creek was part of Valley Creek Farm, a weekend getaway for the Charles Hodges Sr family of Grosse Pointe from 1928 until the metroparks purchased the property in the mid 1950’s. Here we find prairies, woodlands and wetlands, trees like Norway Spruce and Norway Maple were planted by the family and are not native to the area. We begin our walk on the Reflection Trail, fallen leaves crunch under our feet, my face and hands are getting cold. A boardwalk leads to a lookout over a river, colorful leaves reflect off the water. The trail provides many places to stop and take in picturesque views. We keep our eyes open for wildlife such as birds, ducks, fish and turtles, something runs across the trail, we follow the sound and watch a cute little chipmunk have a bite to eat.We warm up a bit in the Nature Center, the building resembles a lodge, lovely wood beams make up the ceiling, large windows fill the walls, it has that “up north” feeling. Glass aquariums contain live frogs, snakes and turtles. Tall cabinets display examples of fox, ducks, hawks and owls, wow, some of them are huge! The view is tranquil, chairs are placed near windows overlooking bird feeders, I can feel myself relax as I watch the birds come and go. The scenery changes with every season. 

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Mid-Century Southfield

13 Nov

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The metropolitan Detroit area is home to an extensive variety of 20th Century architecture. Today we are meeting up with the Southfield Historical Society and DoCoMoMo for the Mid-Century Modern Southfield Tour. In 1954 Northland Mall opened in the city of Southfield, it was one of the first shopping malls in the nation; with the mall in place and easy access to major freeways the city became very attractive to corporations and residents alike. Between 1940 and 1950 the population of the area had increased 200%, during the 1960’s Southfield was Michigan’s fastest growing city. It was post WWII, people were feeling adventurous, architecture had taken on a new look, buildings were designed in new shapes, using new materials such as glass, aluminum and concrete, natural light filled open spaces. Come along as we discover Southfield’s amazing collection of Mid-Century Modern buildings.

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Our tour begins at the Shaarey Zedek Synagogue on Bell Rd. Built in 1961-62, the congregation hired Percival Goodman of New York to partner with Albert Kahn Associates of Detroit to design the synagogue; now considered a masterpiece of Modern design. We are led into the sanctuary, it is a large space that seats 1,100; the triangular shape is symbolic of Mt. Sinai, behind the altar stained glass forms an inner triangle, the sun shines directly on the glass; rich red, deep blues, yellow and brown are aglow. Central to the altar a metal sculpture of the burning bush hangs on a tall marble tower, letter blocks on each side represent the tablets. A representative of the church explains the symbolism of what we are seeing, she then opens the door of the Ark revealing the Torah; dressed with a sash, ornaments and a Keter (crown) they are beautiful, magnificent and to me, mysterious. Modern nuances are found throughout, gone is the blonde wood of the 1950’s, deeper brown has taken its place, rectangular cut-outs in the walls are filled with blue glass panels. The walls of the sanctuary are retractable, when opened it creates one large room that can seat 4,000 people. We exit the sanctuary and pass through the inner court, glass showcases display religious items belonging to the congregation, the pieces are lovely. The Chapel is a much more intimate space, also triangular-shaped, the ceiling is made up of exposed wood beams, walls are brick, windows are stained glass and triangular in shape, it feels a bit more private, cozy. It is time to load the bus for the rest of the tour.

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Traveling down Northwestern Hwy we pass a number of Modern structures built between the late 1950’s and mid 1960’s. The driver pulls over to give us an up-close view of the Federal Mogul World Headquarters building, built in 1965 it is designed in the International style, large glass walls are encased in an open white frame. Originally the third and fourth floors appeared to ‘float’ above the ground level of the building, through the years multiple changes and additions have altered the original design. Further on, the Eaton Automotive building, built in 1965 screams mid-century design with its recessed first level and large front portico. The bus parks, we are at the former Northland Theater, built in 1966, it is one of the last theaters in Michigan to be built to seat 1,500 patrons in a single auditorium. Looking at the front entrance I can totally imagine it when it was still a theater. As we approach the building, dozens of folks are exiting, currently the home of the Southfield branch of Triumph Church, the service has just ended. Going against the flow of people we eventually make our way inside, the lobby and auditorium have changed very little; the concession stand now sells cd’s and other items related to the church, a new paint job, a few updates, but still clearly evident it was once a thriving movie theater.

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We arrive at 16200 Northland Drive, the Minoru Yamasaki designed Reynolds Aluminum Regional Office. Built in 1959, it was said to be “an ode to aluminum”. One look at the exterior and there is no doubt it is a Yamasaki, three stories tall, the second and third floor float atop a terrazzo pedestal, gold anodized aluminum grills in the shape of circles wrap the upper floors. The building is sitting vacant, in 1984 Vic Tanny Health Clubs purchased the building; the walls of the first floor were pushed out to the perimeter and a swimming pool was installed, reflecting ponds were filled in, exercise equipment was set up on the upper floors. The exterior of the building looks to be in good condition, inside I am taken aback at what has transpired; the indoor pool sits empty, a drop ceiling directly above, cubicles have been set up and are now vacant. We take the stairs to the third floor, it appears a running track traces the perimeter of the building, the space is divided, by the looks of the color and design, many of the walls are original. We enter a large empty room, here we have a wonderful view of the aluminum grills; the top two rows are thicker circles, the rest are narrow and overlap. The central atrium remains, at the top a large skylight made of a series of pyramids is intact, it must have been a showstopper when the building was new. We spend our remaining time in the building noticing some of the small details that remain. The building has been vacant since 2012 and is currently for sale; as someone who admires Yamasaki’s work, it is tough to see what has become of this once graceful embodiment of Mid-Century design.

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Our route continues past many more Modern buildings, Sphinx Petroleum, Abrecht, Chand and Trowell. We travel Northwestern Hwy, Evergreen and Southfield Rd before arriving in the Cranbrook Neighborhood. The Lockwood Company of Detroit constructed homes in the California Modern Style, modest ranch homes usually between 1,450 and 1,650 sq ft. The bus parks on Lone Elm, three homeowners have given permission for us to wander around the outside of their homes, these are iconic examples of Modern design; low sloping roofs, large front windows, planter boxes, courtyards and see-through garden walls. The owners have done a marvelous job maintaining the home’s character and design. This is the end of the tour; the bus drops us off at the Synagogue, we are long overdue for lunch.

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Jerusalem Pizza has been serving the finest kosher pizza for over 14 years, this is our first visit. We stand inside reading the pizza selections off a menu posted high behind the counter, nothing is harder then deciding what to order when you are starving! With help from the man behind the register we choose a Cholent pizza, a salad and a salt bagel to eat immediately. With our jackets on it is still warm enough to eat outdoors; we have a seat at a wrought iron table on the sidewalk and tear into the bagel, slightly crispy, tender inside, salty and flavorful, we agree it is the best bagel we have ever eaten. The pizza arrives, cheese is bubbly and browned on the edges, toppings consist of Dijon mustard, beans, vegetarian ground beef, potato and kishke, everything works in combination to create a crispy, chewy, tasty pizza. When we have finished, we go back inside, grab a few more bagels and hit the road.

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Ohio Outdoors……

24 Oct

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We are staying at Stone Gables Bed and Breakfast in Cleveland OH, having filled up on a wonderful breakfast prepared by Richard, we are ready for a day of adventure. Traveling east of Cleveland we arrive at The Holden Arboretum in Kirtland, it is our first visit, I can hardly wait to check it out. Holden Arboretum was started in 1931, a bequest from Albert Fairchild Holden created as a memorial for his oldest daughter Elizabeth who died of scarlet fever at the age of 12. The arboretum is a collection of woody plants that are labeled, cataloged and mapped; here you will find cultivated gardens, forest trails, woodlands and 20 miles of hiking trails covering the 3,500 acres. Directly behind the visitor’s center lies the Butterfly Garden, carefully trimmed grass pathways lead past beds bursting with Purple Coneflowers, Black Eyed Susans, Sedum and more. Crossing a footbridge we stop halfway and watch as water passes over stacked  rock creating a shallow waterfall. Foster Pond, thick with lilypads, is surrounded by plantings of late blooming perennials, daylilies and Trumpet Vine; bees and butterflies are everywhere. I overhear talk of a Tram Tour and discover there are still two seats available for the next tour.  Making our way over to the tram we pass one beautiful bed after another; Hibiscus wear blooms the size of dinner plates,  yellow Coreopsis, purple Bee Balm and Cardinal Flowers add bright splashes of color.

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We board the tiny white tram with three other visitors, the total capacity of the golf-cart-like vehicle is six, making for a very personal tour; the trail is hard-packed, used by pedestrians and trams alike. Traveling past mature trees our friendly, knowledgeable guide stops off and on telling us interesting facts, we glide past Ponderosa Pines, a wildflower garden and Blueberry Pond, its glass-like surface reflecting the nearby scenery. The grounds are breathtaking; lush green grass, ponds, pines, carefully placed benches invite guests to linger and relax. Off to the side a patch of Jewelweed is in full bloom, our guide invites a member of our group to carefully pinch off a seed pod for the rest of us to see. She instructs him to place the pod in the palm of his hand, then tap the pod, all of us jump when the pod explodes sending seeds into the air, appropriately, the plant’s nickname is Touch-Me-Not!  Approaching the Rhododendron Discovery Garden, we are greeted by the Noreb Tree Allee, lined with Paperbark Hazels, Swamp White Oaks, American Elms and Flowering Dogwoods, this place must be incredible in the Spring. Two huge granite acorns welcome us, we cross through a gate, past a pretty pergola into the collection of Rhododendrons and Azaleas, here again a springtime visit would be ideal. Corning Lake is home to tall reeds, cattails and Heron, a large turtle is resting in the grass. In one hour the tram leads us through all of Holden’s highlights, it is really the best way to become acquainted with the grounds.

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Driving south, we stop in the tiny town of Burton for lunch at a cafe. Fed and refreshed we arrive at Nelson-Kennedy Ledges State Park to do some hiking. The day-use park is made up of 167 acres of rugged cliffs, four scenic hiking trails and diverse plant life. The park lies near one of the highest points of the state; a popular vacation spot, the state of Ohio created the Nelson-Kennedy Ledges State Park in 1949, preserving it for future generations. Rock formations found here are among the few outcrops in northern Ohio still exposed to view. The incredible sandstone cliff formations are a result of erosion; wind, water freezing-thawing, wore away at the softer rock layers. Large blocks of rock called slump blocks fell away, leaving the more resistant layers to form ledges. Rocks lay jumbled about, moss in a variety of shades and patterns covers the surface. At the trail head we choose the Red trail, it is the most difficult of the four, also the most interesting.

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Red dots are spray-painted on trunks of trees, sides of rocks, leading us over dirt trails, rock stairs and fresh puddles. We descend the narrow space between two rock formations, the temperature drops noticeably, tiny white pebbles have worn smooth and are embedded into the rock. Trees are perched along the top edges, their roots exposed, clinging to each crevice. In shady areas ferns such as Christmas and Maidenhair grow wild, I read that in Spring Trillium are found in abundance, even the rare Red Trillium can be found here. We follow red dots catching a glimpse of a squirrel here and there, many songbirds can be found in the park. We are very low in elevation when we arrive at Fat Man’s Peril, here we have to duck down and squeeze between the rock surfaces, it’s dark too. The trail is loaded with places with names like Devil’s Icebox, Indian Pass, Old Maid’s Kitchen, posted signs urge us to stay on our path saying “Dangerous cliffs, stay on marked trails only”, good advice. Slowly we make our way back up, the leafy canopy above providing refuge from the heat. Back at the trail head we follow a trail leading us in the opposite direction, the ground is covered in fallen leaves year round making for slippery stepping at times. Reaching the boardwalk, we follow it around to a waterfall, today it is merely a fine spray of water passing over the rock face, the volume varies with the season. Speaking of waterfalls, we have one more place to visit.

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Chagrin Falls is one of those darling little towns that look like a set for a Hallmark movie. The Chagrin River runs right through the center of town, baskets of flowers cascade over the railing along the river, a fountain trickles in a tiny park riverside, the buildings themselves are quaint brick structures. The historic little village, an affluent suburb of Cleveland, is only 2.14 sq. miles, in it we find Greek Revival homes from the very early days, Italianate houses from the 1870’s, Queen Anne’s from the 1890’s and bungalows from the 20th century, they all look equally comfortable in their setting. The sky has become dark, we head directly for the falls before the clouds open up. An elevated wooden deck leads us down to the Chagrin Falls where the powerful river flows steadily over rocks, white water landing in the river below. Visitors pose for pictures, the scenery is lovely. On the opposite side of the water from us a large restaurant takes advantage of the spectacular view with lots of windows and a covered deck. It begins to rain, we quickly make our way to The Popcorn Shop on Main Street.

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Businesses in town consist of specialty shops, art and antique stores, home goods, clothing stores and restaurants. The Popcorn Shop is one of those places you have to visit when you are in town, decked out in red, white and blue, the building is charming, built in 1875 it originally was the retail end for the adjoining flour mill. Sometime in the 1940’s it became a popcorn shop which also served homemade ice cream and candy, and so it is today. I love their caramel corn, it is simply the best, Kris is more of an ice cream type guy, he orders a waffle cone with a peanut butter ice cream that is truly to die for! The harder it rains the more crowded the shop becomes, until at last it lets up. We take the opportunity to stroll Main Street, every shop displays  gorgeous urns stuffed with annuals, the scent of Petunias carried on the breeze. The town is quaint, walkable, picturesque, a great side trip when you are visiting Cleveland.

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