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OHIO: Put-In-Bay

3 Jun

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The Memorial Day weekend officially kicks off the Summer travel season; our car is loaded up and we’re ready to go! We are headed to Ohio for some fun in and along the Lake Erie coastline, our first destination: Put-In-Bay.  As we approach the Miller Ferry in Catawba, we’re pleased to find plenty of room on board, hooray! We park in a local lot, purchase 2 round-trip tickets and board the vessel. It’s a gorgeous day to be out on the water, the only drawback being the cold breeze off the still-chilled lake. Covered in sunscreen and bundled in sweatshirts, the 18 minute trip is over before we know it. Still early on the first Friday of the season, the island seems to be just waking up when we arrive. The Victorian village of Put-In-Bay (PIB) is located on South Bass Island in Lake Erie; the name originally referred to the bay itself, schooners sailing on the lake would “put in” to this bay to wait out bad weather. PIB has been a tourist destination since 1864, it is one of Lake Erie’s most popular resort areas. The island itself is 3.7 miles long and 1.5 miles wide; according to the 2010 Census it is home to 138 people. Let’s see what this place is all about.

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On the island we are immediately greeted by lots offering us rental of golf carts, bicycles and scooters by the hour; we are two miles from downtown and there’s a strong wind, we go for the golf cart….Carts like these are the most common form of transportation on the island–they are everywhere! I sign the lease agreement, am given a yellow copy and a map of the island, Kris takes his place behind the wheel of our newly rented transportation and we’re off…. We are both excited to visit  Perry’s Victory and International Peace Memorial, last time we were here, the line to go up to the observation deck stretched out the door. The only international peace memorial in the National Park System, it was built by a commission of nine states and the federal government from 1912 to 1915. The remains of three British and three American officers killed during the Battle of Lake Erie lie under its rotunda.  The memorial commemorates that battle in which Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry led a fleet to victory in one of the most significant naval battles to take place in the War of 1812; it is from this battle Perry coined the phrase: “Don’t give up the ship”.

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We follow Langram Dr until the memorial comes into view, the 352 ft monument is the world’s most massive Doric column; it is among the tallest monuments in the US and quite a sight. Inside, we climb the narrow, curving stairway to the elevator, a ticket to the top costs us $3 each. The ride to the top goes quickly, we exit the elevator and walk out onto the observation deck with its stunning panoramic view, wow! From here we have a bird’s-eye view of our surroundings; the lake, islands, city, even Canada. The sky is Robin’s egg blue, low clouds hover on the horizon, the water is cerulean, everything else is a vibrant green; indeed, nature has sprung to life after a long, harsh winter, it is quite spectacular. The structure is made up of limestone blocks, ornate grates appear here and there, an 11 ton bronze urn tops the granite column. Maps are placed on each of 4 sides identifying what we see in the distance; Kelley’s Island, Pelee Island, mainland Ohio, Sandusky Bay, Marblehead and Lakeside. Roads are laid out clearly, docks jut out into the bay, marinas wait patiently for the boats to arrive; in the distance it appears sky and water meet. It’s hard to leave such incredible scenery, but we have lots of island left to see.

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We cart on over to Perry’s Cave at the Family Fun Center; I go inside to buy tickets, when I come out I find Kris at the Antique Car Museum. It seems Skip Duggan, lifelong resident of PIB, had quite a passion for antique cars; favoring Ford Model T’s and A’s, his personal collection is on display for all to enjoy. When it’s tour time, our guide, a native of PIB, leads us down the 44 steps into the 208 ft long, 165 ft wide Perry’s Cave, which is a stable, but chilly, 50 degrees. This is a natural limestone cave discovered by Commodore Perry in 1813, they say he and his men slept here during the war. Calcium carbonate covers the ceiling, floor and walls; it is very wet down here today, puddles have formed on the floor, cold water drips on us from above. We follow our guide along the pathway through the cave, hundreds of straw-like stalactites cling to the ceiling as stalagmites are forming on the ground. The ceiling is very low, some of our fellow tourists have to bend nearly in half in certain areas, the floor is slippery too. Our guide shines her light into a pool of water and tells us this is a lake, the water takes on a greenish tone from pennies that have been tossed in on wishes throughout the decades. After looking at the lake we turn around and re-trace our steps, all in all enjoyable…in a tourist-trap kinda’ way.

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On the way to the cave we passed a restaurant with an inviting looking patio, that’s where we’re going now to have lunch. Goat Soup and Whiskey Tavern is a fair distance from the hustle and bustle of downtown, this charming building resides between the church and Heineman’s Winery on Catabwa Ave. Kris parks the golf cart once again, it is #209, important to remember when so many carts look exactly alike. The interior feels old and quaint, turns out this was originally a winery. Round lights are strung from the ceiling of the covered patio, nobody is eating out here this afternoon; a crisp breeze blows and now I know why, we will have to settle for the indoors today. We are seated in a lovely room, sunlight brightens the space through skylights and windows, walls are brick with wood trim, a variety of animal heads are mounted on the walls. We start with a cup of beer cheese soup, it is creamy and delicious. Next up, the blue cheese and bacon burger arrives, the bacon is crispy, the burger cooked just the way we like it, cut in half and served with fries it is enough for two. All of the soups and sauces and made from scratch, vegetables and herbs come from their garden, bread is baked in house and desserts are homemade, yum! Too full for a real dessert, you know what they say, there’s always room for chocolate….. oh,maybe it’s just me who says that…. The lower level of the building is home to a chocolate museum and candy shop. The variety is huge; fudge, truffles, barks, creams, they have nuts, fruits and malted milk balls all dunked in rich chocolate goodness. Kris and I each manage to choose a few pieces, a cup of hot coffee for me and we are back in the cart exploring…but more on that later.

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DETROIT: Mt. Elliott

28 May

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A cemetery can tell you the story of a city; where residents came from, who was rich, how streets got their names, it can be fascinating stuff. Today we are visiting Mt Elliott Cemetery on, well, Mt Elliott, just north of Lafayette. The oldest, still operating, traditionally Catholic, cemetery in Detroit, it was consecrated in 1841, just 4 years after Michigan became a state. The first burial was that of Robert Elliott, notice the name? Elliott was one of the original purchasers and planners of the cemetery, one month after it opened, he was killed in a construction accident at St Mary’s, it was named ‘Mount Elliott’ in his honor.

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We enter through a beautiful stone gateway designed and built by Walter Schweikart in 1882; many prominent families are laid to rest near the entrance. The grass is green and lush, the spring breeze a bit chilly, monuments and tombstones rise from the ground as far as the eye can see. Directly in front of us is the monument of a barefoot scholar belonging to Daniel Campau, son of Joseph Campau, yep, that guy. Surrounded by books, the man looks deep in thought, as if he is pondering some eternal question; his father, Joseph, is buried at Elmwood. We traverse the grounds winding past grave sites; it is tranquil, serene, the only sounds come from the rustling of leaves and songs of the birds. A canopy of mature trees seem to exist to protect those who have passed on. Crosses come in all sizes here; carved of stone, one resembles a log while another has a Celtic design. There are multitudes of statues gracing monuments; angels, women in flowing robes, they all wear grief stricken, sullen expressions, some turn their faces upwards toward heaven. 

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Some headstones are barely legible, weather has taken its toll and worn them nearly smooth, one monument has become very dark, it looks long forgotten. A tiny lamb sits atop a stone rectangular box, details have been washed away. In 1872 the Fireman’s Fund bought large lots for $500 apiece for the purpose of burying firefighters; the Fireman’s Fund Monument stands tall over the headstones, annuals have already been planted in the urns, two red, faux fireplugs flank the site. Jerome Cavanagh, Mayor of Detroit from 1962-70, is buried here, as are many French and Irish settlers, soldiers that fought in the American Revolution, the War of 1812, for and against Napoleon in the Battle of Waterloo and the Polar Bear Expedition to Russia after WWI. Little Chief Edward, grandson of Sitting Bull is laid to rest here; the well-known and unknown are entombed side by side.

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The mausoleum architecture is elaborate, fancy, graceful. The Palms is my favorite; framed by a Crimson King Maple on each side, the structure is beautiful; a few steps lead to metal doors that have tarnished over time, creating a lovely patina, short columns flank the entryway, a statue of a woman is positioned on top. The Palms family were Detroit high society through real estate and banking; they have left an architectural legacy in the Palms House, Palms Apartments and Palm Theatre (now the Fillmore). We pass familiar names such as Beaubien, St Aubin and Moross; most mausoleums have gorgeous metal gates, some, ornate stained glass windows, iron grates and urns waiting for flowers to be planted. One tombstone resembles a church steeple, another a tree stump with a log cross, where the bark is ‘peeled’ away we learn the names of those who have passed on. 

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Crossing Mt Elliott, we find ourselves in front of St. Bonaventure and the Solanus Casey Center. St Bonaventure Monastery, constructed of red brick with limestone trim, built for the order of Friars Minor Capuchin, opened in 1883; Father Solanus Casey was a Friar here from 1924-1946. At the Center we pass through the open gateway into the courtyard; brick pavers are engraved with names of donors, large pieces of sculpture dot the garden landscape. A pair of impressive glass doors lead us into the building; sunlight floods the interior corridor. A group of bronze statues are to our left, glass cases display items used by the monks; robes, chalice, sashes, habits, sandals and wood rosary beads. A narrow doorway leads us to a series of exhibits detailing the life of Bernard Francis Casey; born in 1870, he was the sixth of 16 children. There are family pictures and personal items; stories from childhood through adulthood appear on placards, giving us insight into this revered man.

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Father Solanus Casey’s casket lies beneath the north trancept at St Bonaventure’s; today a single red rose and small folded pieces of paper sit atop the wooden tomb; prayers offered for the intercession of Father Solanus. Known as a ‘wonder worker’ he is the first United States-born man to be declared ‘venerable’ by the Roman Catholic Church; he has been proposed as a candidate for Sainthood. The church is quiet, we are the only ones here. The Gothic Revival style is simple and elegant; highly varnished wood wainscoting covers the lower half of the walls, classic lantern-style lights hang from chains. Light streams in from understated stained glass windows that face Mt Elliot, the main focus of the space is definitely the meticulously carved wood altar, magnificent with its tall spires.

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We exit through a rear door that leads to the Votive Candle Chapel, enclosed in glass it provides a lovely view of the grounds. Tiny flames dance inside tall red and green glass jars; the scent of melting wax permeates the air, it is familiar to me, many of the old churches smell exactly like this, I find it pleasant and comforting. A few people arrive with new candles purchased in the gift shop, they will replace ones that no longer burn with their own prayers.

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We leave the serenity of the Center and head to Eastern Market to grab a late light lunch; Germack is now serving bagel sandwiches in their coffee shop–perfect! We place our order at the counter and have a seat at a nearby table, I sip on a hot Chili Mexican while we wait. Our sandwiches arrive and they both look delicious; Kris has a PBJ: Germack’s own freshly ground cashew butter and a layer of a locally made blueberry lavender vanilla jam on a Detroit Institute of Bagels blueberry bagel, if you think it sounds good, you should taste it! I went with the Morning Sunshine–house-made herb cream cheese, cucumbers, tomato and arugula on an everything bagel, yum! When our sandwiches are gone we sit back and chill as we finish our coffee, it has been another great day in Detroit.

MILFORD: Fun In The Sun

19 May

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Michiganders are a tough breed; a 30 degree temperature change in twelve hours is hardly worth noteworthy, our tank tops hang next to wool sweaters and our sandals are parked next to our insulated boots in the closet. We stock up on sunscreen before the last remnants of snow have disappeared. When those first warm days arrive we burst from our cocoons and head outdoors to play in the sunshine! Surrounded by lakes and rivers, our recreational opportunities are endless. Southeast Michigan is home to the Huron-Clinton Metropolitan Authority (HCMA), a regional park district that encompasses Wayne, Oakland, Macomb, Washtenaw and Livingston counties. Thirteen metroparks cover nearly 25,000 acres of parkland along the Huron and Clinton Rivers providing year-round activities; hike/bike trails, beaches, swimming, boating, cross-country skiing, golf and of course, picnicking.

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Today we are visiting Kensington Metropark in Milford, one of the largest of the HCMA, it has 4,481 acres of wooded, hilly terrain surrounding Kent Lake. First stop, the Farm Center; here we meet farm animals and experience rural life through a 150-year old barn, exhibits, field crops and poultry house. The first pen we approach is filled with goats; moms with youngsters and newborns are drawing aaawwws from visitors, adorable in black and white coats they seem to enjoy themselves as they climb on rocks and chase each other around, the littlest ones stick close to mom. Around the corner sheep graze, babies call after their mothers, adventurous ones come right up to the fence and enjoy a good scratch from friendly humans. The brown Swiss Cows are so pretty with their dense fur and fluffy eyelashes; they come right over for a pet on the head. Pink pigs are laying in the dirt, one is pressed against the side of the pen seeking shade on this extraordinarily warm May day. Horses graze in the fields, geese wander freely, miniature donkey’s are adorable; they too appear gentle and like interacting with people, I wonder if they make a good pet…….A covered area is home to a variety of goats and lambs, it is lunchtime; while the bigger ones are satisfied with a bale of straw, little ones are seeking out their mothers. We pop into the barn and are delighted by the sight of a pile of tiny piglets; just a few days old they are snuggled close together under a light to keep them warm as mom watches over them nearby. Upstairs we find exhibits featuring farm equipment and tools, placards explain what everything is and how it is used.

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We drive over to the Nature Center and park the Jeep, many of the hiking trails start from here. We begin on the Deer Run Trail, clumps of bright yellow wild flowers bloom alongside the gravel trail, many of the trees remain leafless. A boardwalk takes us over a marsh, the path continues through both field and forest, puddles are leftover from the recent heavy rain. A Cardinal serenades us, Kris spots him in a tree and snaps a picture, wildflowers with pale blue petals are lovely.

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We switch from one trail to another; the Aspen leads us to the Wildwing, which encircles Wildwing lake. There is a great deal of activity on this trail, here folks hold birdseed steadily in the palm of their hand, tiny birds flutter from trees to the food, thrilling the feeder and onlookers alike. This trail is quite hilly, Trillium are beginning to bloom; for most of the way we have a nice view of the lake, there is a look-out on one side. As we near the far end we take notice of an island covered in tall trees; the trees themselves are filled with nesting Herons, a rookery. I have never seen so many herons nested this closely together; Kris uses the camera to get a better look. The large birds are two distinct varieties; one is white, the other, almost black, parents take turns leaving the nest to gather food, it is an awesome sight. We near the park road, the trail ends and a boardwalk begins; wispy clouds dot the blue sky, birds chirp from weeds in the lake, here and there we spot box turtles. We reach the end, time to get some lunch!

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Kris drives us into downtown Milford, we are famished; on the right side of the street a sign duplicating a hamburger sticks out from a building, there is parking right in front, how can we resist? The place is called The Burger Joint; inside, a menu is posted on the wall near the counter, we make our selections, pay the cashier and take a seat. The dining area is filled with round tables grouped around a fireplace; decorated in bright red, gold, green and stainless, it has a casual feel. Our food arrives, everything looks good; our 1/4 lb burger is cooked perfectly, topped with lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles, ketchup and mustard served on a brioche bun, it is delicious. The Southwest Chili Cheese dog is tasty; a black Angus all beef frank is split, grilled and smothered with black bean chili, cheddar cheese sauce, onions and deep fried jalapenos–yum! Everybody knows french fries are a hamburger’s best friend; hand-cut and twice fried in canola oil, these are outstanding.

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The Village of Milford is quite charming, there is an old section and a new; making our way down Main Street toward the newer area,we notice The Milford House has a take-out window serving ice cream. We did walk for a couple of hours today………Both of us order malts, double chocolate for me and caramel, made with caribou ice cream for Kris. Guernsey ice cream, and flavorful  add-ins make for a decadent treat. Sipping as we walk, we cross the street, stroll over to the waterfall and sit and finish our malts. The heat of the sun feels good, the faint scent of flowering trees is carried on the breeze; these are the kinds of days we live for.

DETROIT: Cruisin’ Grand River….

28 Apr

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Detroit is full of unexpected surprises. In 2012 a majority of the Hollywood film Red Dawn was shot in and around Detroit. In one scene, a smallish, irregularly shaped building on Clifford St was blown up (kinda) in a fiery explosion, it was also a run-down liquor store in Transformers 3. Fast forward to 2014, there sits the building, wearing a brand new facade, wrought iron accents, lanterns and thick wooden door that looks as if it came straight from a castle.  A narrow vertical sign calls it Downtown Louie’s Lounge, the neon sign in the window says “open”, so we go in. The place is beautiful inside, they used high-end materials like dark wood, quartz and leather, the leaded glass entrance doors are gorgeous. Two stories tall, it is completely open to the second floor ceiling, a mezzanine level at the back of the restaurant is made cozy with a lovely fireplace and built-in booth across the far wall, did I mention the walk in wine cellar? The main level is a combination of high top tables, booths and the bar, there are several flat screen TV’s but they don’t seem obtrusive.  

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Given our choice of seating, we go up to the second floor, a table overlooking the place, light fixtures and wallpaper panels give it a bit of a Modern feel. The restaurant is owned by the same folks who give us Louie’s Ham and Corned Beef on Riopelle near Eastern Market; this location serves classic American Cuisine, craft beer, wine and cocktails. It’s hard to pass up a good Reuben, so we don’t…..we did order the house salad too, just to balance things out. The sandwich is delicious; piled high with tender corned beef, sauerkraut and dressing– don’t forget to ask for extra napkins. The house salad is large, full of leafy greens and veggies, the citrus balsamic dressing is tasty. We would not hesitate to come back again.

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On the corner of Grand River and Griswold is another surprise, among early 20th century buildings constructed of brick and stone is a clearly Mid Century Modern, all glass building. Two stories tall, long rectangular windows are both anchored and capped in orange, signature-style fixtures glow from within, this is the home of Urban Bean Co. Serving Great Lakes Coffee, baked goods from Pinwheel Bakery, Faygo, Better Made and Dutch Girl Donuts, this is a cool place to stop in for a coffee or a snack. The space is odd-shaped and funky, we order coffee at the counter and walk up the narrow stairway to the second level. Decorated in orange and yellow, molded chairs are distinctly Modern in style; here we get a completely different view of the streetscape. Separated only by panes of glass, we actually feel part of the activity going on outside. Across the street is a red brick building where George Clooney filmed scenes for the Ides Of March, the top of the Penobscot is poking through in the distance, the entrance to the Griswold parking structure is next door. On Sunday evenings Burst Radio, Detroit’s Electronic music station is broadcast live from Urban Bean Co.

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We make our way up Grand River to an area known as the Grand River Creative Corridor (GRCC). Launched in 2012 as a neighborhood revitalization project by Derek Weaver, the managing director of 4731, artwork and graffiti line the corridor between Warren Ave and Rosa Parks Blvd. The first mural we come across is a colorful collection of cartoon like creatures by Patch Whisky, big eyes and goofy smiles make me think some of them are having a great time, others seem to have a problem with escaping fluids….With the Jeep parked, we walk up the street, the Flintstones cast covers an entire wall, a cool robot lurks in a doorway offering the Peace sign to all who pass. A piece by Ramen feels ethereal, a twist of red outlined by a luminous green seems to glow against a black background. Continuing down the road the graffiti sometimes covers the entire exterior of the structure, some pieces are abstract, some life-like, there are unique characters, colorful doodles and faces of Indians, one door is an image of a tropical Detroit. A dancing bolt, nut and hammer advertise American Integrated Supply, the oldest fastener supplier in Detroit (Since 1943), some designs appear fluid, as if they are in motion, the colors are bold, the work mesmerizing.

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Graffiti artist Michael Owen is in town, he is the creator and lead artist of the “Baltimore Love Project”. Earlier in the week he completed his “LOVE” mural atop a Grand River building, now he is hard at work on another building and we are lucky enough to get to watch him work. He is standing on a light blue cherry picker creating a ‘billboard’ introducing the GRCC, awesome! We wander through the outdoor gallery near 15th Street, amazing. The artists are a combination of local, national and international talent, each of their pieces tell a story.

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One last stop on Grand River, Dabl’s African Bead Gallery and Mbad Museum. If you have driven by this area of Grand River you may have noticed the building and outdoor public art installations and wondered, “what is that?”, now you know. We first make our way through the outside installations, an old house is completely covered in random materials and mirror fragments, a long wall is painted in various colored patterns, the sun shines overhead, encouraging me to linger at each piece. Narrow planks surround a platform like a fence, a table is set up with a series of round boxes that resemble a layer cake awaiting a celebration. Lids of rusty paint cans are slathered in pastel colors, there’s an old tractor, coils of chain-link fence and a car covered in paint, you decide what it means.

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The Museum is contained in a red brick building, rows and rows of beads in every color, shape and size fill the walls. Their website says they are a “major repository for African artifacts including sculptures, textiles, pottery and bead works dating back hundreds of years from countless countries throughout Africa”, I can tell you it’s a fascinating place to visit. Near the back, shelves are built into the walls, multitudes of clear glass bottles hold thousands of beads, from a distance it looks like bottles of magic potions. I take my time investigating, I show Kris jars of sea shells and sharks teeth, Dabls shows us beads that are 800 years old! We see African hats, masks and figures, glass beads are assembled into strings and clusters, all quite beautiful. Before we leave I purchase some beads to take home, sort of a souvenir, a remembrance of our day.

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DETROIT: Something Old Something New….

21 Apr

 

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We start our fourth year by going back to where we began (more or less) with a visit to Historic Fort Wayne.  Twice a year they host a Flea Market in the Visitors Center gym, the grounds are also open to the public and tours are available, it’s a fascinating way to spend the day. You never know what you might find at a flea market, that’s part of the excitement of going. The gym is transformed into a bargain hunters paradise, rows of folding tables create aisle ways the length of the room, items are stacked on the floor and tabletops, an American flag is draped from the rafters. Crates of vintage record albums, children’s games, dishes and glassware are among the many items for sale. Antique trunks and suitcases have been re-purposed into tables, vintage insulated ice cream carriers are out of the ordinary. Through an open doorway we find ourselves in another room, clothing, doilies and jewelry are plentiful, I am taken with jewelry boxes that open from a simple rectangle into an elaborate display with tops that go up, drawers that open and compartments that unfold. We take one more walk through to be sure we haven’t missed anything then make our way outdoors. 

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The original 96 acres where the star fort and many buildings remain is steeped in history going back to about 1000 AD when 19 Native American burial mounds were present in the area. One burial mound remains, when it was excavated in the early 20th century, human remains dating back over 900 years were discovered, today the area is fenced off but you can still have a look at it. In the War of 1812 Detroit had been captured by the British Army and held for over a year–the only major American city to have this distinction. The US government realized Detroit had no counterpart to British Fort Malden down river at Amherstburg Ontario to resist a British attack on American soil, the Army chose this site, the narrowest point of the Detroit River to build Fort Wayne. Construction began in 1842 and was completed in 1848, it was named in honor of Gen. “Mad Anthony Wayne”, a hero of the American Revolution. In 1861, after the attack on Fort Sumter, President Abraham Lincoln asked for 75,000 troops from the northern Union states, two weeks later the Michigan 1st Volunteer Infantry Regiment was mustered into federal service at Fort Wayne.

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We begin to walk the grounds, starting with the section closest to Jefferson, we pass the Post Theatre built in 1939, a guard-house and a giant bell. On the left is the Tuskegee Airmen Museum housed in a former residence, the door is locked so we move on. A row of non-commissioned officers houses still stands, single residences and duplexes built from 1904 to 1939, houses are on a slight rise from the sidewalk, it must have been lovely. Further on, huge storage buildings seem to have been maintained and are still in use, army green tanks are parked off to one side. The door to the guard-house is open, the floor is wood, a stove was used for heat, jail cells are tiny, cots for the sick fill a small space. A row of Victorian houses line the next street over, a the Post Commanders residence has been restored to its original wood exterior.  The trees are still bare, the grass just beginning to turn green, the abandonment is unnerving; random panes of glass are missing, I imagine the inside to be laden with spider webs, roofs have deteriorated to a weave like pattern of shingles and rafters, I feel as if we have stumbled into a ghost town. Climbing a large hill we have a panoramic view of the grounds and the Detroit River, the riverfront parade ground is now used for soccer games, nets are in place the grass is well maintained. Making our way to the river we have a spectacular view of downtown and the Ambassador Bridge, the river sparkles in the spring sunlight, old concrete is piled along the shoreline, Canada is just a stone’s throw away. Retracing our steps we circle an old storage building on the other side of the hill, it seems it is still in use as a storage facility, everything around her looks really, really old. 

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The barracks were constructed between 1842-49 and are said to be one of the best examples of Federal-style architecture outside the seaboard states. Exterior walls are rough-hewn blocks of limestone that came from Kelly’s Island in Ohio. The interior is set up with tables and chairs today for some type of meeting, upstairs we find the sleeping area complete with bunks, comfortable is NOT a word I would use to describe the sleeping arrangements. Just outside to the right is the Powder Magazine building, it has an arched ceiling and displays showing us what it looked like back in the day. A dry moat surrounds the star fort itself, originally constructed of earth and wood, the fortifications were rebuilt in masonry during the Civil War. We enter a long brick hall through an open doorway, this leads us to the fort itself, we walk up a couple of stairs into darkness, it feels really damp, water is puddled on the concrete floor. Light sneaks through narrow slits intended for attack on the enemy, the fort has never mounted cannons. We feel our way around, larger windows allow us a better view of which way to walk, we travel down another walkway and enter another area of the fort, once again we traverse the few steps into the building. Wrought iron hardware hangs on unbelievably thick wood doors, they did  everything they could to keep the bad guys out. It’s hard to believe this building still exists, thankfully it was dedicated as a military museum in 1950, otherwise it may not be here.

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Of the original 96 acres, 83 still belong to Fort Wayne, the rest belongs to the Army Core of Engineers as a boatyard. The fort was added to the National Register of Historical Places in 1971, it served as an Army base for 125 years. Most people probably do not think of Detroit as a military city, that just goes to show you what an amazing place it has always been.

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I check my watch and am glad to see we still have time to catch brunch at Detroit’s newest restaurant, Zenith. Robert and Melissa Jasper moved to Detroit from the East Coast to open their unique, quirky restaurant on the main floor of the Fisher Building. We walk through the Fisher to the restaurant entrance, one foot in the door we know we are going to love this place! To the left is a small city-scape rising from the floor, the space is huge, 8,ooo sq ft, there’s another 8,000 sq ft on the basement level too, along with the original safe from the bank that originally occupied the space in 1928 and a small banquet room. We are greeted at the door and told we can sit wherever we want, that’s a tough decision in a place this cool. We settle on a table central to everything and begin checking out the menu, the selections all sound incredible. After we place our order we are free to roam around; the pieces they have amassed through the years are awesome; statues of jungle animals, beer displays, original funky artwork, advertisements for household items, food and auto-related products. There’s a fabulous lounge area in the back that puts me in the mind of the 50’s era Cuban style; rattan furniture, exotic lamps, tropical flowers–it’s fantastic! The tiki bar itself is just waiting for the liquor license to arrive to get into full swing, it will be a great place to come and have a cocktail. The original integrity of the building remains, columns have been boxed in, walls and surfaces are painted in bright green and blue, everywhere you look, there’s something to look at.

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Our food arrives, we dig in with enthusiasm, we are splitting the Passion Fruit Pound Cake French Toast (I kid you not!) and the Poutine Deluxe, my mouth is watering as I write this….The french toast is utterly delicious, served with a buttermilk cream sauce it is just the right amount of sweetness. On the other hand the poutine is a savory mix of french fries, scrambled eggs, cotija cheese, hollandaise sauce, 4-pepper gravy and crumbled bacon, alright, so it’s not low in fat, for something this good I’m willing to put in a little extra work-out time.  As we savor our brunch I continue to notice things, like the planters playing host to doll heads, the giant Calypso sign above the kitchen, the Lone Ranger and fun window displays featuring great items from the 40’s and 50’s. The food is a fusion of Southern and Mexican style, with so many interesting things on the menu to try, we’ll definitely be back. So there you have it, from one of Detroit’s oldest places to one of its newest, its been another great day in the city !!

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Clawson: Let’s Go Shopping!!

14 Apr

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All around Metro Detroit you will find quaint little villages, historic cities and hip downtowns. Each  one a little different from the other, it’s fun to check them out and see what they have to offer.Today we are visiting Clawson, just 2.2 square miles in size, downtown can be found at the intersection of 14 Mile Rd and Main (aka Livernois). 

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We begin our visit with a stop on Rochester Rd, this is where Michigan’s largest retail candy store, Doc’s Sweets resides. Nothing fancy on the outside, the inside is a virtual wonderland of candy, they have everything here, it even smells sweet! Easter displays are front and center, chocolate bunnies, candy eggs and Peeps in every color of the rainbow await their place in your Easter basket. Plywood shelving units divide the space into wide aisles, Jelly Belly and M&M’s have huge display cases that dispense the flavor and color candy of your choice. Old-fashioned treats like those pastel colored candy buttons stuck to strips of paper bring back childhood memories as do Slo Poke, Now & Later, Zots and Laffy Taffy. Do you like Gummi Bears? How about a gummi worm, frog, shark or turtle? Licorice comes in strings, wheels and snaps, Scooby Doo, Mickey Mouse and Star Wars figures are filled with candy; for fans of chewing gum they sell Razzles, Chiclets and Fruit Stripe. Do you remember Sixlets? Not only are they available individually, like many of the items here, they can also be purchased in bulk. Employees are friendly and helpful, you can’t help feeling happy yourself surrounded by all this sweetness.

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Magic anyone? Wunderground Magic Shop on Main St is a fun place to visit even if you can’t pull a rabbit out of a hat. Wall to wall and floor to tin ceiling the space is filled with books, card tricks, magic wands, supplies and accessories for magicians of every skill level. Looking around we notice playing cards clinging to the ceiling overhead, ventriloquist puppets look ready for conversation, novelties, pranks and gag gifts make us laugh out loud. Chatting with the man behind the counter we learn the ceiling is original, the second floor of the building was originally the Ambassador Ballroom. Wednesday nights were rolling skating nights at the Ballroom, it was so popular the owner built a separate roller rink across the street in 1941.

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Across 14 Mile Rd is what used to be the Ambassador Roller Rink, a Clawson landmark for over 60 years, the building still retains the original wood floor, hockey scoreboard and over 300 pairs of roller skates. In 2006, husband and wife team Stephen and Mary Liz, opened one of the coolest stores around, Leon & Lulu in the 15,000 sq ft space. Referred to as a ‘lifestyle store’, to me it is shopping heaven. Old and new, quirky and classy, unique and classic, the variety of items and styles seems endless. Easter decor items greet us at the front of the store, vintage roller skates are dressed up with sequins on a nearby shelf, antique glass bottles from Detroit sit atop a table. Freshly popped popcorn is being kept warm in a red cart, a young woman wearing skates offers us a beverage then rolls off. Many things vie for my attention at the same time; the open ceiling shows off its wood beams, unique light fixtures glow from above, funky artwork hangs on walls. Kris and I begin roaming the store together but soon we have split off in different directions, I always have an idea of where he’s at from the sound of the camera as he snaps pictures. I take my time browsing, I am a sucker for handbags and kitchen do-dads. Kris spies an awesome vintage score keeping machine out of a bowling alley–sweet!

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Vignettes of couches, chairs and tables are beautifully laid out, I cannot resist trying a few of the pieces. Discarded items like metal doorplates, teacups and spoons have been reused to create light fixtures. I meet up with Kris and we walk around again showing each other the pieces we like best. I have been here on several occasions for special events, usually charity fundraisers, there’s always food and drink and you’re guaranteed a good time. The owners are extremely generous, last year alone they hosted 64 events, 51 of them benefiting local charities. Every time I come, the store has different merchandise, making it fun to explore. I recently learned Leon & Lulu will soon have a neighbor, the owners have acquired the old Clawson Theatre to be used as additional retail space and a bakery/cafe. Like the roller rink the theatre was built in 1941, movies were shown until 1962; like most small town theatres the building was used for other purposes and then sat vacant. To me the most exciting part of the deal is the plan to replace the original marquee to make it look like a classic downtown movie theatre again, it will add so much charm to the streetscape.

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Walking east down 14 Mile Rd we notice and old record shop, Flipside Records. Doing business here since 1983 the store sells new and used vinyl, CD’s, DVD’s, video game systems, vintage stereo equipment, posters and t-shirts. We love to browse shops that sell vintage anything, record stores always have great things to look at and listen to. T-shirts hang from the drop ceiling, like items are grouped into sections, I see my first Iggy Pop bobblehead, Kris is leafing through old albums, some of them have awesome cover art. It has been a while since I have seen stacks of 45’s, of course Elvis takes up a fair amount of space. Vintage record players make me yearn for the days when things were simple and real; you actually held the arm on the record player and placed the needle on the vinyl, sound came out of speakers instead of tiny little earbuds attached to an iPhone, ahhh, the good old days! 

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We come to a Japanese grocery store called Noble Fish, having heard only good things about their sushi we decide to give it a try. The small store has a huge selection of grocery items such as sauces, oils, rice, Sake, beer and snacks along with Japanese gifts and kitchen goods. Both of us enjoy looking at the brightly colored packages, sometimes wondering what it is, or what one does with Gingko nuts or a can of Quail eggs. Now, Pocky we know, but here in addition to chocolate and strawberry we can try almond crush. Coolers along the side of the store hold pre-made sushi boxes, fresh fish and multi-color rice cakes. All the way to the back we find the sushi counter; we fill out the order sheet, take a seat and wait for our food. 5 stools are pulled up to a counter, there are probably another 5 tables in the restaurant space, each seating two people, to say it is small is an understatement. Sushi specials are handwritten on sheets of paper and taped to the walls, be sure and look them over before placing your order. A cart holds a thermos of hot green tea and pitchers of cold water, cups and glasses are available for you to help yourself. Our sushi is delivered to our table, it looks and tastes delicious, prices are reasonable and the rolls are nice sized. A line of people has formed to place orders, as soon as we are finished we leave to make room for someone else. We take one more walk down the rows of items, certain there is nothing we need for home we head over to the register. Even Japanese grocery stores have impulse items at the check-out counter, Kris has his eye on a chocolate cookie-looking thing, the clerk tells us it is mochi filled with red bean paste, the things we thought were chocolate sprinkles are actually roasted sesame seeds, what the heck……You know, it wasn’t bad.

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DETROIT: Film Fun

7 Apr

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The list of things to see, places to eat and activities to do continues to grow in Detroit. Tonight we are dining at the recently opened Grille Midtown on Woodward in Midtown. With a little bit of luck we score a parking space in front of the restaurant, Friday evening diners are beginning to filter in. The interior is quite attractive; brick walls are painted in a silvery grey, artist renderings of vintage GM concept cars are framed and hang on the walls. We follow the hostess to our seats passing vintage automotive grills mounted to the wall; nearest our table one from a Ford Econoline and another from a Lincoln Continental, both circa 1960’s. Cool car stuff is found throughout the space.

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We start with a Caprese Salad; tomatoes, prosciutto, basil and mozzarella drizzled with olive oil and a balsamic reduction, very tasty. The Smokehouse burger is a thick prime ground beef patty served on a housemade brioche bun, topped with crispy applewood smoked bacon, house bbq sauce, melted cheddar and onion strings, yum! The burger comes with gourmet fries and a McClure’s pickle. Adjacent to the Grille is the Garden Theater, designed as a movie house by C Howard Crane, it opened in 1912 and showed films until 1949. Having sat empty and unused for the last 20 years the theater has been brought back to life. We poked our heads in to have a look…….we have got to see a show here.

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Tonight Cinema Detroit is showing The Grand Budapest Hotel. Starting out as the Burton International High School, the building is nearly 100 years old, the original auditorium had all of the seats and a projection booth (built in 1924) when the Burton Theatre took over the building. Previously known as Cass City Cinema, Paula and Tim Guthat now operate Cinema Detroit at The Burton. Movie enthusiasts themselves, both Paula and Tom blog about movies. Showing contemporary, indie, cult and classic movies, the screen in theater 1 is equipped with a cinema server and NEC digital camera DCI compliant projector to enable the showing of the latest movies from Hollywood and independent producers. Tonight there is an added attraction, Angela Foster, local pastry chef and proprietor of Coffee and (_____) is preparing Courtesans au chocolat just like the ones in the movie. 

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We arrive about a half hour before the movie is scheduled to begin, parking is easy because they have their own (monitored) lot. Everything about this place is unique, we walk toward the building, a small flashing LED sign reads ‘theater’, we follow a walkway on the side of the building, then follow the next flashing sign to the entry door. Inside a pair of lines have formed, one to purchase tickets and snacks, the other to purchase the courtesans au chocolat. I take my place in line to purchase tickets, it looks like the show may be sold out, I want to make sure we get our seats. Once our coats have been placed to secure our seats we join the pastry line. Silver trays of courtesans sit atop a small table, the pastries are beautiful; made from profiterole batter they are filled with chocolate custard, held together with colorful glazes and topped with a chocolate covered coffee bean, they’re as delicious as they look! Before the movie begins Angela has sold out. If you’d like to try some of her wonderful baked goods contact her by email; watch for the re-opening of her shop on Jefferson and Chalmers June 1st.

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With a little time left before we need to take our seats, we check out some of the building, antique projectors and film equipment are cool to look at. A second theater is located on the lower level, patrons have begun to arrive for the show. Back up the stairs we settle in to watch the movie, the auditorium is quaint and comfortable, there isn’t a single open seat. The film is visually stunning, the story charming, funny, sweet.  The Grand Budapest Hotel runs through Thursday April 10th, click on the link above for details.

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We end our evening with a stop at 3rd Street Bar for a nightcap. Not too noisy or too crowded we take a table near the bar, Kris orders a Canadian Club and Diet Coke, it’s a Founders Porter for me. This place always has a cozy feel, we sip on our drinks and talk about the evening, we have checked another new place off our list, there are still so many more to try……………

ROCHESTER: Meadowbrook Hall

31 Mar

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It had been a couple of years since our last visit to Meadowbrook Hall in Rochester MI.  One of this country’s finest examples of Tudor Revival architecture it should be on your Must Do list. Before I talk about the home itself I need to lay a little groundwork, it all begins with the Dodge Brothers……..

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John and Horace Dodge were automotive pioneers who shaped Detroit’s early automotive industry. They went from working in local machine shops, to manufacturing Evans and Dodge bicycles to opening their own machine shop in 1901. Interestingly enough (at least to me it is) they began producing stove parts (remember at one time Detroit was the Stove Capital of the US), then moved on to parts for the auto industry. Their first major customer was Ransom E Olds, in 1902 Henry Ford hired them to produce everything except the body, wheels and tires for his new vehicle. At that time Ford was short on cash, he gave the brothers 50 shares of stock in the new Ford Motor Company as payment, making them 10% shareholders in the company. In 1913 John Dodge decided not to renew their exclusive contract with Ford, John stepped down as President of the company and the brothers began the process of building their own “Dodge” vehicle. In November 1914 the first Dodge rolled of the line in Hamtramck. John was a widower and father when Matilda Rausch, secretary for the Dodge brothers, caught his eye, the two were married in 1907, the marriage produced three children. In 1920 John died of influenza, leaving Matilda a (unbelievably rich) widow at age 37, at that time he was worth in excess of $100 million dollars. 1925 was a big year for Matilda, she married Alfred Wilson and she and Anna Dodge sold their holdings in Dodge Motor Company for $146 million dollars, making Matilda one of the wealthiest women in the world.

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John and Matilda had purchased a farm estate in Rochester MI years earlier as a weekend retreat, it consisted of 1500 acres and several residences. This is where Matilda and Alfred would build their family home. William Kapp (Music Hall, Players Clubhouse) of Smith, Hinchman and Grylls was hired to design the house, Matilda requested the home be large enough to entertain 250 people and the dining room be able to hold 40 people for dinner. What she got was a magnificent, 88,000 sq ft castle, (that’s right, 88 thousand square feet) reminiscent of an English country manor home. It was built between 1926 and 1929 for a cost of $4 million dollars. Matilda insisted that all materials should be American as well as the workers. The home is filled with elaborately carved wood, stone, ornate plaster, even the details have details, 27 fireplaces, 39 chimneys and lots of Tiffany glass; she was the largest purchaser of Tiffany in the country. Ok, now we can go in…..

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We enter the home and find ourselves in the expansive foyer, a fire burns bright in the massive fireplace, a bench pulled close for those who wish to warm themselves, a pair of candelabra torchieres flank the fireplace.  The tour begins on the lower level of the home, the entertainment floor, so to speak. Ralph, our guide begins by telling us a bit of family history and how the house came to be. We move into the Ballroom, the only 2-story room in the house, to me it looks straight out of a castle; gorgeous timber ceiling, stone arches, tapestries, light fixtures of wrought iron and glass, almost medieval. The Wilson’s spared no expense when they threw a party, Tommy Dorsey and his orchestra played here with a then unknown singer named Frank Sinatra. Proceeding through the room we find ourselves in the Game Room; this is where the men would go to smoke, drink, play cards, that sort of thing. The ceiling is vaulted, windows are leaded glass, the slate floor gleams, beautiful rugs and leather couches make the room feel comfortable. As with every other room in the house it is finely detailed, trim work surrounding the door is carved with shapes of chess pieces, card suits and the like, my favorite detail? The miniature pool table that serves as a door handle!

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Back on the main floor we find ourselves in the Christopher Wren Dining Room; named after the English architect for the design style. Walls are paneled in walnut, the ceiling, well, it is absolutely stunning. I have never seen another one like it, the work of Corrado Parducci, the detail is magnificent, thick plaster designs hang heavy from above; corn and wheat so detailed you can see the grains, the cherubs have eyelashes, leaves and flowers wrap the perimeter. An amazing garland of fruit, flowers and game birds hang above the fireplace, two large chandeliers anchor the room. Family photos are found throughout the house, portraits of Matilda and Alfred hang prominently. Through a narrow doorway is the Pagoda Room, this is where the children would take their meals; walls are hand-painted, lots of windows let in the natural light, an Asian-style chandelier hangs above, it’s wonderful. Down the hall we enter Alfred’s study, this is the only room in the house that does not feature American wood, being a lumber baron, he chose English Burled Oak to cover the walls. Rectangular panels are carved with scenes representing Alfred’s life from his days in Indiana through college and beyond. A fireplace makes the room cozy, the detail in the door is impressive, and what kind of door handle does Alfred have? A log of course.

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As we walk toward Matilda’s office a window offers us a glimpse of the ballroom below, what a sight! The office is lit by a Waterford Crystal chandelier, a fireplace and desk take up residence in the space, alcoves recessed into the paneled walls hold decorative pieces. The room looks quite comfortable, it is clear Matilda had a good eye and knew what she wanted. The living room is the largest room in the house, at 1340 sq ft it still manages to feel welcoming and warm. The furniture is Chinese and looks perfectly at home in the room, I love the ceiling, it is bowed to prevent cracking, the plaster pattern is lovely. At the far end of the room is another huge fireplace, behind it is a splendid sunroom; lots of windows, the ceiling is Wormy Chestnut, pretty furniture, I can see myself reading a nice thick book in this room. At the opposite end of the room a grand piano sits off to a corner, organ pipes are concealed in the walls, open grates our only clue to what lies behind the wall. A narrow hall leads us past the original organ, the floor is wide plank, the organ is both a player organ and can be played by hand; paper organ rolls are kept in boxes behind glass doors. A charming set of three stone windows catch my eye as we pass heading into the library. One of the (many) amazing things about this house is that the furnishings are all original, the books actually belonged to Alfred and Matilda, the photos are real family photos, their dishes and personal belongings are all here for us to see! 

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Our group climbs the grand staircase to the Great Hall, great is an understatement. At the top of the staircase I turn around to face the fabulous stained glass windows, from there I look up at the plaster barrel ceiling intensely covered in a brocade-like pattern, wow! A table is set as an example of how the Wilson’s entertained. To the right down a hall is the wing where the Dodge children’s bedrooms are located, bathrooms are Rookwood Tile from Cincinnati, guest rooms allowed for them to have friends stay over. The opposite wing belonged to Matilda and Alfred, each had their own room, Alfred’s masculine as expected, and for the lady of the house, French and feminine. Rose-colored silk wallpaper covers the walls, her bed rests upon a low pedestal, it is exquisite, if I heard correctly, she has 14 closets…..Also located in this wing are the bedrooms of the Wilson’s two adopted children Barbara and Richard, along with the nanny’s room. Both Barbara and Richard are still alive, Meadowbrook Hall turns 85 this year, a celebration is planned and the children are hoping to attend.

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Matilda was very active in civic affairs and the arts, generous with her time and fortune, she built the Wilson Theatre in Detroit, now known as Music Hall. In 1957 Matilda and Alfred donated their entire 1500 acre estate, their collections and an additional $2 million dollars to found Michigan State University-Oakland, renamed Oakland University in 1963. The university opened in September 1959, 570 students enrolled that year. Upon graduation Matilda presented each student with a diamond ring. The Wilson’s continued to live at the estate until their deaths, Alfred in 1962 and Matilda in 1967, today, their legacy lives on. It’s nearly impossible to capture the beauty of this home in pictures, descriptions cannot do it justice, you’ll just have to see for yourself.

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The Royal Park Hotel in Rochester seemed like the logical place to have lunch, the boutique hotel which opened in 2004 is also designed in the English Manor House style. The exterior is brick and stone, inside you will find dark wood, rich fabrics, oriental rugs and fireplaces. We take a seat in Elliots Lounge, the menu features casual meals, sandwiches, salads, charcuterie and cheeses. We start off with the specialty sausage board; a grilled chicken and organic apple sausage served with watercress salad and sundried pear and apricot mostarda, yum! Kris digs into the RPH Sliders while I enjoy the Chili Lime Chicken sandwich, everything is well prepared and delicious, service is excellent. When we have finished, we leave the world of the rich and famous and return to reality………bummer.

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PLYMOUTH: Dinner and a Movie….

24 Mar

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Just about 26 miles west of Detroit in Wayne county lies the city of Plymouth; settled in 1825 it was named after Plymouth Massachusetts. Today this quaint town of just over 2 square miles is home to shops, restaurants, cafes, Kellogg Park and lovely historic homes. It is a beautiful day, the sky is clear, the sunshine deceiving as the temperature hovers around 20 degrees. We find a parking spot central to our planned activities and drop in at the Plymouth Coffee Bean. Since 1993 this independent coffee shop in a former residence has been providing folks with coffee, espresso drinks, pastries and light fare. It is Sunday, tables are crowded with locals sipping warm beverages and reading the weekend newspaper. We amble from room to room through the house, currently there are no open tables, we will get something to go. We order our drinks at the counter, a glass case is filled with delicious looking baked goods from red velvet cake to cookies; we have something else in mind……..

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The Alpine Chocolat Haus on Main Street serves up a delectable variety of chocolates handmade in Gaylord MI. The space is long and narrow, a large front window provides natural light and a great view of downtown. A table front and center features Easter bunnies made from every variety of chocolate. Boxed candy is found on shelves and cubbies along each wall, an extensive counter displays individual varieties of truffles, barks and clusters. Further on are freezers filled with Moomers Homemade Ice Cream, made in Traverse City MI, it has been named Best Scoop in America. Bags of Chocolat Haus Chips (potato chips dipped in chocolate) and Bruce’s Gourmet Caramel Corn line shelves, both are best sellers. Today Kris and I are just looking for something chocolate to go with our piping hot coffee. Settling on dark chocolate almond bark, a sea salt caramel and a peanut butter truffle, we are pleasantly surprised at how reasonable the prices are, the chocolate itself is outstanding!

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We walk from Main Street around Kellogg Park to Penniman Ave, we are seeing “Saving Mr. Banks” at the historic Penn Theatre. The Woodward Theatre Company purchased this plot of land back in 1926 with the intention of building a first class movie palace. Over a decade later Harry Lush purchased the property and built the theatre you see today; the Penn officially opened December 4, 1941, the movie was “Weekend in Havana”. In 1964 Margaret Wilson purchased the Penn, a couple of years later she added a concession and altered the entrance to what you see today. In 2003 the doors were closed and the fate of the theatre uncertain; thanks to a group of businessmen who purchased the building in 2005, the theatre is now rented to the non-profit Friends Of The Penn for $1 a year! After much interior renovation the single screen, 402 seat,Penn re-opened in 2006 showing current second-run movies, independent and classic films and occasional live musical performances. 

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We approach the theatre, a line of movie-goers has formed from the old-fashioned ticket window down the sidewalk, we are not the only ones gripping a warm drink with gloved hands. The Art Deco facade is gorgeous, the marquis is lit up advertising today’s film, Saving Mr. Banks, All Seats $3.00. Fortunately the line moves swiftly, inside, little if anything remains from 1941, old movie posters hang on the back wall of the lobby. The theatre has three sections of seats, an aisle-way runs down each side, it’s crowded with people, we have to go down to the third or fourth row to find two empty seats. Walls in the auditorium are now covered in red pleated material that matches the grand curtain, also in red, modern light sconces recall the Art Deco design style. Without delay the movie begins, for the next two hours we are entertained by Tom Hanks as Walt Disney and Emma Thompson as P L Traverse, author of the Mary Poppins novels. The story takes place in 1961, the clothes and cars are cool, the tunes are catchy and familiar, in the end, everyone lives happily ever after and the audience is left with a smile.

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Keeping with our historical theme, we drive over to Novi for dinner at Shiro. The restaurant operates out of an elegant Colonial Revival home, built in 1929 by Charles Rogers for his bride Harriet Thornton. The Rogers family made their fortune in canned milk, Rogers is actually credited with inventing condensed milk. The home was originally called White House Manor because it was built with the money made from the White House Milk Company. Charles died in 1942, after Harriet died the Crusoe family purchased the home and lived there for about ten years, the house then sat empty from 1973 to 1981. The Cervi brothers bought the home and turned it into a restaurant, this would be the story for the next many years; each of the owners reporting the sound of footsteps when no one was around, lights that would come on when the place was empty, they all said it was haunted. In 1998 Shiro Japanese Restaurant opened and has been there since.

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We snag a parking space close to the entrance, the home is stately, prominent, lavish, it has a southern feel to it with its tall columns and balcony. Inside, our attention is drawn to the elegant grand staircase with cherry wood banisters that curve to the second floor. There is hand carved wood work, stained glass windows and leaded glass doors. On the right is the sushi bar, the room is crowded with diners, we are seated in the room to the left; white tablecloths cover the tables, votive candles are a nice touch. We place our order and talk about the movie as we wait for our dishes to arrive. First out is the Shiro salad with a delicious ginger dressing, the kimchee pancake appetizer is enough for two, it has a really nice flavor. We chose three different sushi rolls, each a different flavor and texture, all were enjoyable. It has been a wonderful Sunday,we are lucky to live in an area that has so much to offer within a short distance.

DETROIT: Once Upon A Time……

17 Mar

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Have you ever been to the Thanksgiving Parade in downtown Detroit? If you live in the Metro Detroit area, chances are you have at least watched it on television; floats, marching bands, balloons all making their way down Woodward Ave, viewers anxiously awaiting the moment when Santa arrives. You can’t help but smile, everybody seems to be having such a grand time, no matter what the thermometer says. Thanks to The Parade Company you can take a behind-the-scenes tour of their enchanting paradeland, floats old and new all within arm’s reach. Group tours (10 or more) are made by reservation, since there are only two of us we are joining a Girl Scout troop for our journey through 200,000 sq ft of parade history and magic.

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We make our way to Huber Street and enter the driveway of what used to be the expansive Chrysler Lynch Road Assembly Plant. There is great history in the building alone, designed by Albert Kahn (really) and built in the late 20’s, it sat at the epicenter of Chrysler’s auto manufacturing domain in Detroit. On or within a stones throw of Lynch were two foundries, an axle plant, forge, marshaling center and transport facility, all owned by Chrysler.  In close proximity to Dodge main, Jefferson avenue, Mound Road Engine and Dodge Truck, imagine the beehive of activity. Even the little known Dual-Ghia, preferred by the likes of Dean Martin, Frank Sinatra and Lucille Ball, was assembled right around the corner near Grinell and Van Dyke. At one time the Lynch road plant employed over 12,000 , everything from Desoto, Dodge and Plymouth to military vehicles and parts of the Manhattan Project were built here. Most renowned for its contribution to the Muscle car era; Lynch turned out many a Road Runner, Super Bee, Charger, GTX, R/T and Superbird during its heyday. You can bet a few neighbor’s were awakened by the sounds of a 440 Six pack or 426 Hemi getting wrung out by an employee. Unfortunately, after over 50 years of production the plant became obsolete, automobiles have not been built here since the early 1980’s. Make no mistake, this plant was a major part of Detroit’s manufacturing history.

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 Our guide, Steve, introduces himself, goes over a few rules and the tour begins. A bright purple wall showcases photos of Grand Marshalls through the years; most have something to do with Michigan, Thomas Hearns, Anita Baker, Ernie Harwell and Aretha Franklin. Others such as Mickey Mouse, Lassie, Big Bird and Jessica Simpson are a few of the exceptions. We enter Studio A, this is where floats are designed and built, vibrant colors cover the walls, newspaper articles on the parade are proudly displayed. We have our first encounter with giant paper mache heads; Tom Selleck, Bo Schembechler, Sparky Anderson and Magic Johnson. We are surrounded by work spaces; a metal shop, wood shop and a station filled with enormous pieces of styrofoam. Volunteers are already busy at work creating figures for the 2014 parade. Plywood shelves hold heads of sports figures wearing baseball hats, renderings of floats show the design process from beginning to end. This former factory spreads out as far as the eye can see, bicycles and scooters are often used as a means of transportation from one end to another. 

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We get our first up close view of a float, grown-ups are just as excited as the scouts, everyone wants their picture taken in front of their favorite. We learn floats are made to be pushed, pulled or self-propelled; the Wizard of Oz is made up of several sections, we are able to peek underneath and see the automobile chassis it rides on, this is so cool! It’s hard to believe how detailed everything is, from faces to flowers it’s all beautiful. The Parade Company has built floats for such things as the Indy 500, Miracle Mile Parade, even Disney, the craftsmanship is amazing. In case you ever have a need for a float, keep in mind you can rent one for your own special occasion…… One area holds pieces of floats that have been disassembled; animals, flowers, cupcakes, pancakes and a miniature Scott Fountain all wait their turn to ride in the parade again. Small push floats representing Chevrolet automobiles are parked to one side. Crossing from Studio A to Studio B  we get a glimpse of the area where the balloons are stored. Every Thanksgiving morning at 6am they are filled and come to life; only one has ever escaped–that would be Chilly Willy who decided to head south one year. Fortunately he was recovered in Canada at Point Pelee.

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Studio B is the storage area, think of it as an enchanted kingdom straight out of a fairy tale. From the Turkey Trot float to castles, gardens, ice cream and candy, I just want to climb aboard and play. Each float is a different scene, all are assured to make you feel happy. The girls are giddy, each points out something different; then it happens–we come face to face with the old paper mache pirate heads, there are tiny shrieks and gasps, they’re kinda scary sitting there in the dark. Once assured the pirates pose no danger, we move along through floats bearing Christmas trees, elves, toys and snow, sponsored by companies such as Ford, Compuware and Quicken Loans. 

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Proceeding through the maze of floats we are coming to the end of the tour, there it is, Santa’s sleigh and nine little reindeer. I can’t tell you how many times Kris and I have awaited that sight, standing somewhere on Woodward freezing, but unwilling to leave until Santa has made his appearance. It looks so much larger here, though tempting to climb aboard the sleigh, I decide against it. This is the only parade company to design, build and store floats in the same location. Costumes are designed and manufactured here too, they have over 3,000 of them! It’s kind of quiet here today, not a lot of activity in March, but come August volunteers will work around the clock to have everything ready for the 2014 America’s Thanksgiving Parade.

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All of that walking has given us an appetite, good thing we know a place to catch lunch not far from here. Marcus Hamburgers has been at this McNichol’s location since 1929. Charles Marcus opened his doors during The Great Depression with the idea of making burgers more affordable during a difficult time. He invented an all-steak burger, rectangular shaped, that fit in a hot dog bun. He built a cast iron grill that still sits in the middle of the diner nestled between the horse shoe shaped counters. My parents used to live in the neighborhood and frequented the diner often. It doesn’t look much different today that it did back then, still serving up those famous burgers that were so popular with the local factory workers back in Detroit’s heyday. We take a seat at the counter and order up burgers and fries. Before long plates of burgers with cheese, chili, lettuce and tomato are set down before us along with bowls of finely chopped onion, relish and bottles of mustard and ketchup. As we eat, customers come and go, carry-out orders are placed and picked up, people have been eating here for over 85 years. This area of the city is nearly forgotten these days, but it’s comforting to know some things haven’t changed.

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