Tag Archives: visit detroit

DETROIT : Fall fun at Eastern Market

1 Nov

bbbb 013

No matter the season or what the weather is doing, to me any Saturday is perfect to go to Eastern Market. On our most recent visit the sky was light blue, colorful leaves were still clinging to trees and the market was decked out in Autumn’s glory. It was just a couple of days until Halloween and pumpkins were plentiful, from pie-sized to fully painted we had our pick. Huge bins were piled high with any variety of gourds or squash you could imagine. As we walked from shed to shed the sweet smell of apples filled the air; Gala, Fugi, Mutsu, Honeycrisp, and Pinata to name a few. Did you know Michigan grows more variety of apples than any other state? Baskets of them covered the table tops of individual vendors creating a sort of rainbow of apples.

bbbb 039

bbbb 007

bbbb 054

It is the end of the harvest in the Great Lakes State and here the yield was gathered and available for purchase; potatoes, peppers, red onions, and the last tomatoes of the season. It wouldn’t be fall without apple cider, would you like it hot or cold? Indian corn, pomegranates, and mass quantities of mums are a delight to see. Buskers perform in and out of sheds, the one-man-band was simply amazing playing several instruments and singing Detroit versions of  old Folk  songs. The somber notes of the saxophone player hung in the chilly air as passerby’s dropped money into his red-lined instrument case. Giant apples decorated by local artists stand in the center of aisles celebrating the fondness of this much appreciated fruit.Every weekend brings something new and it’s always a good time.

bbbb 022

bbbb 046

bbbb 005

Besides the market itself, this area is also lined with produce and specialty food stores, antique shops, restaurants, and a great little boutique on Riopelle called Savvy Chic. Take a peek inside this charming home decor shop; there is always a wonderful candle scenting the air, items are placed in a thoughtful and pleasing way throughout the 2-room shop. There are pieces for entertaining at home, hostess gifts, unique jams, jewelry and scented soaps and lotions. There are pieces of furniture both new and repurposed, cards, and books. Take your time as you browse so you don’t miss anything, it’s a nice mix of old and new pieces.

bbbb 067

  bbbb 068                                                                                                                                                                                                                 We had built up our appetite walking around, so we stopped in at Vivio’s for lunch. The Vivio family has been feeding market-goers in this location for over 40 years. The first thing most folks think of when you mention Vivio’s Food and Spirits is a full pint of Bloody Mary served with a generous slice of dill pickle and a shot of beer along side it, and it’s easy to see why. I don’t think there was a single table that did not have at least one of their famous cocktails. The building itself has a homey feel to it, like when you were a kid and you’d visit you Aunts and Uncles for large family gatherings, The decor runs the gamut from vintage Budweiser and sports memorabilia to animal heads  and collectibles.  Stained glass lamps light the room along with a large stained glass piece over the bar. Service is quick and friendly even when there’s a crowd. We had the Pastrami Burger, one of their specialties; an Angus burger topped with pastrami and melted Swiss served on a baked pretzel roll with a side of McMahon’s Irish ale mustard, it makes for a nice combination of flavors, they give you a stack of fries along side, add some soup and there’s enough for two.

                                                           

bbbb 083
                                                                                                    We had one more stop to make before heading home, Rocky Peanut on Russell. Established in 1969 in Historic Eastern Market this family business is known for, you guessed it, fresh roasted peanuts. They purchase their nuts directly from the growers  and then roast and season them in a number of different ways, each being fresh and delicious. Stop in and have a look around, besides nuts they sell many items in bulk; spices, dried fruit, grains, and baking supplies. The most popular section has to be the bulk candy area; from the old favorite Swedish fish, giant jaw breakers, Hershey kisses, to retro favorites like Bit-O-Honey, no wonder sweet-tooth’s flock here. Recently added is a section of specialty made in Michigan products, I highly recommend Brownwood Farms Cherry Honey Mustard; great for dipping pretzels, but you have to try it on a sandwich! Whether your looking for an old favorite like Bosco, or you need a pinch of that seldom used spice you can find it at Rocky’s.

bbbb 071

bbbb 077

DETROIT: Model T’s, BBQ & Beer

28 Oct

aaaa 028

Detroit has an impressive industrial history; from building ships and trains to stoves and of course, the automobile. The Ford Piquette Avenue Plant  built in 1904, is a City, State and Federal Historic Site and a National Historic Landmark. It is significant for several reasons; Here the Model T was designed and the first 12,000 plus produced, Ford Motor Company set the world production record by assembling 101 Model N’s, R’s and S’s in 1908 in a ten hour day, and this building is where the methods and ideas came about that would become the moving assembly line.The museum points out the importance of the building and the magnitude of what went on here and how it shaped history. The structure itself is over 67,000 square feet, there are three floors and 362 of the original 395 original windows are still in place. Ford did everything here from the drafting to the assembly.

aaaa 012

aaaa 017

aaaa 033

Start your tour on the second floor at the admissions desk; Guided tours are available or you you can grab a self-tour guide from the desk. View the video to put you in the mindset of Detroit 1904-1910. If you do the self guided tour be sure and read the information packet provided to fully understand the building and what went on here. I really like coming here, I think it’s so cool to be standing on the same floor as the likes of Henry Ford, James Couzens, John and Horace Dodge, William Durant and so many others once did. There are beautifully restored cars on display, they are all on loan, so you’re never sure what you will see that day. Check out the 2004 Ford GT, this is the actual car that set the world’s speed record that year. The museum makes changes through the season with different exhibits, they had just taken down the Fashion and the Automobile exhibit, we were disappointed we missed it. There is always something new in the works currently volunteers are reconstructing the Experimental Room exhibit, and a new Ford dealership exhibit will be installed soon. Two floors are open for you to wander through, it’s really fascinating and it’s the only early automotive factory in Detroit that is well preserved and open to the public. The museum closes for the winter, but you have until November 20th to visit.

aaaa 007

aaaa 031

aaaa 024

The sun was out and the temperature was pleasant enough to eat outdoors, so we drove over to Slows-to-go on Cass Ave for lunch. With the popularity of their Michigan Ave location and subsequent crowds this gives us hungry diners another option. With their recently installed outdoor wooden tables and benches you can eat right there if you wish. The menu is the same, as is the unbelievably delicious food.I highly recommend the Reason; tender and moist pulled pork piled high on Texas toast, topped with cole slaw and dill pickle strips, yum! The Mac & Cheese is always a good choice for a side, creamy sauce with a hint of heat, we ordered a side of potato salad too, good stuff!  I know it sounds crazy, but every time I eat here I am amazed at how delectable everything is. It was great to be sitting outside in October enjoying a scrumptious meal.

aaaa 036

aaaa 039

For the last 5 Sunday’s the West Village neighborhood has opened a “Pop-Up” Biergarten called Tashmoo. Located on Van Dyke and occupying 2 empty lots it has been wildly successful. We finally had the opportunity to check it out, I’m so glad we did. As we drove down the residential area of Van Dyke, we knew we were getting close when we started seeing all of the cars parked alongside the street. What a perfect setting on a glorious Fall day; Mature trees line the street, beautiful homes grace the neighborhood, and a slight chill in the air. As you approach the fenced in lots the name Tashmoo is called out in bright red letters across the front, a series if patio stones lead you to the entrance where you must show your ID and receive one of those paper bracelets if you are going to drink beer.

aaaa 078

aaaa 061

It was well organized, after you put on your bracelet proceed to the ticket table, tickets are $2 each, you trade them in to the bartender for a glass of your choice of several Michigan beers, easy. It was late afternoon and the Lions were playing at home, we made the right decision by going before the game let out. Tables and benches are made of 2×4’s, tables are topped with discarded doors, as is the bar itself. People were everywhere, communal tables were filled to capacity, dozens of folks were playing the Corn-Hole games, groups of friends were gathered together having a beer and catching up. We had our tickets in hand and made our way to the bar, thankfully the lines moved quickly. We tried the Founders Porter, and both found it enjoyable. What’s a Biergarten without food? No problem, there were two food booths; People’s Pierogi Collective was there serving up bite sized pierogi with your choice of Kraut, Potato or Sour Cherry filling, 3 for $5. We tried one of each, though all were delicious, I  was especially fond of the sour cherry. Corridor Sausage had their booth right next door and seemed to be very popular, offering a variety of sausages with unique toppings and meat and cheese plates that paired perfectly with your favorite beer. 

aaaa 070

aaaa 074

aaaa 066

This was my first Biergarten experience so I wasn’t sure what to expect, it was absolutely wonderful. The crowd was mellow, the name Tashmoo means “meeting place” and that’s exactly what it is; a place for friends to gather and a place where strangers sit down side by side and make new friends. Every age group was represented; toddlers sat on blankets atop the lush green grass, school age children tried their hand at Corn-Hole, and grown-ups played board games in the afternoon sun. This was the last Sunday for the season, I am already looking forward to next year.

             

Belle Isle: Statues & Monuments

27 Sep

LD weekend 419 (1)

Belle Isle is often referred to as the Crown Jewel of Detroit’s public park system, I say it is a jewel with many facets. Originally settled by French colonists in the 18th century, Detroit city fathers purchased the island in 1879 for $200,000 from the Campau family. There is the very public side of the island; the Scott Fountain, Casino, Dossin Great Lakes Museum, Conservatory, Giant Slide, and the picnic pavilions. There are also a number of areas and things that go unexplored by the average visitor. Our goal today was to drive around the island pointing out things you may not have noticed or even knew they existed; to take a walk through the nature of the island, and to share some of the 5 magnificent miles of scenic shoreline. Belle Isle provides spectacular views of the Detroit skyline, Canada, the Ambassador Bridge and a steady stream of freighter traffic.

LD weekend 443 (1)

LD weekend 428 (1)

LD weekend 479

LD weekend 467 (1)

LD weekend 487 (1)

Statues pay tribute to important figures in business, music and literature. Johann Frederick Von Schiller who wrote “Ode to Joy” is perched upon a pedestal, book in hand, peacefully gazing at nature. A white marble bust of Dante Alighieri, Father of Italian literature stands tall and serious. James Brady founder of the Old Newsboys Goodfellow Fund holds a small child near to him. A single soldier stands at attention representing the Civil War Grand Army of of the Republic. Quite impressive is the tribute to Samuel Francis Smith, author of “America”; Art Deco in style, eagles sit perched at each corner, a flag pole reaches up toward the sky as Old Glory waves in the air.You have probably seen the large statue of a man on a horse; Major General Alpheus Sharkey Williams, the detail is exquisite. One of my favorites is “Partners”, a newsboy and his dog.

LD weekend 474 (1)

LD weekend 437 (1)

LD weekend 456 (2)

LD weekend 460 (1)

The island is full of beautiful things; a bridge near the Casino building is just gorgeous. The sides of the bridge are incredibly ornate wrought iron bent into loops and curlicues now painted bright turquoise. The fancy carved stone columns at the ends let us know that it was built by the King Bridge Company in 1893. In another area, situated further back from the roadway rests the Nancy Brown Peace Carillon; this neo-gothic tower was designed by Clarence E Day. Stunning in design and detail, it was dedicated in 1940 to the newspaper columnist who raised most of the building fund from her readers. Today the fenced in area surrounding it looks forgotten, tall grass and weeds grow freely, still, the sound of cast bronze bells continue to ring out and delight all of those who hear it. The William Livingstone Memorial Lighthouse is the only all marble lighthouse in the US; located at the east end of the island it’s owned by the city of Detroit. There’s a path that will lead you out to it, it’s a bit of a walk, but I can assure you it is worth the effort. Designed by Albert Kahn and built in the Art Deco style it’s a thing of beauty. Made of White Georgia Marble and topped off with a bronze lantern room, the light is visible up to 15 miles away on Lake St. Clair. They actually extended the eastern tip of the island 1/4 mile into the river back in 1929 just so they could build the lighthouse on this spot.

LD weekend 514 (1)

LD weekend 494 (1)

LD weekend 500 (1)

The north east end of the island is quiet and secluded, nature has reclaimed much of it. If you’re the adventurous type there are pathways and nature trails that lead past the Blue Heron Lagoon and over to the shoreline, at one point you get a spectacular view of the open waterway leading out to Lake St Clair. Earlier in the year people from Cherry Creek and Sleeping Bear wineries proposed putting in a vineyard in this area, using the Casino building as a tasting room and sales area, we’ll see what happens…… 

LD weekend 503 (1)

LD weekend 508 (1)

LD weekend 513 (1)

LD weekend 507 (1)

Scott Fountain Belle Isle, Hart Plaza, Jazz Festival

9 Sep

gardens 1193

Kris and I have been coming to the Scott Fountain on Belle Isle for as long as I can remember, and we are not alone! Through the years we have witnessed dozens of weddings, numerous family photographs, and countless visitors enjoy the splendor of the fountain. Designed by Cass Gilbert and sculpted out of Vermont White Marble by Herbert Adams there are over 109 water outlets. From the great outer bowl rises the central pedestal of intricately carved figures that upholds the top most basin. Take a good look, the detail is remarkable; You can find Neptune, dolphins, lions, turtles and sweet faced cherubs. The central spray jets water 125 ft into the air and is most impressive. It seems people are always drawn to water, so a fountain on an island is an even greater attraction. Belle Isle Park is the largest city island park in the country, it was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted who also designed Central Park in New York City.

gardens 1233

gardens 1187

gardens 1237

There is a bit of interesting history that goes along with this amazing tower of cascading of water.  James Scott was a wealthy bachelor who was known as a gambler, womanizer, and a loafer. Scott had inherited his father’s real estate fortune and it was said he was not to have done a days work in his entire life. He told off-color stories, gave big tips, dated beautiful women and played vindictive practical jokes. He was disrespected and disliked by most of the businessmen and city officials in Detroit at the time. In 1910 James Scott died, he left $500,000.00 to the City of Detroit with the stipulation they use it to build a fountain on Belle Isle and a life-sized statue of himself; people were outraged. After 15 years or arguments and debate, the fountain and statue were finally built in 1925 for all to enjoy.

gardens 1207

gardens 1217

gardens 1240

The fountain itself has changed a bit through the years too; the beautiful Pewabic Tile that graced the interior of great outer bowl was removed last year when repairs were made, sadly it was all destroyed and thrown away. There is a current fundraising effort in the works to raise the money to replace the tiles, Pewabic still has the original plans. The lower area of the fountain bordering the lake is not running this year, there are repairs to be made and little money to work with. It is still worth looking at, I love the giant clam shells, and remember fondly when water sprayed freely. I recently read that the 1973 drama “Scarecrow” had a famous scene between Gene Hackman and Al Pacino that was shot at the fountain, I will have to rent it and check it out! It seems all who married in Detroit back in the day came to Belle Isle to take pictures, it was the place you came for picnics and reunions, it was and still is a magical gathering place.

gardens 1257

gardens 1248

gardens 1244

   

 It was a scorching hot Saturday, the kind that drags you down, saps your energy and drives you inside to some air conditioned place. Well, unless the 32nd Annual Detroit Jazz Festival is going on! It’s hard to pass up the Labor Day Weekend event no matter what else is going on, billed as the largest FREE Jazz event in the world you will never see or hear anything like it. The urban setting is quintessential; the Detroit skyline in one direction, in the other, the sparkling blue Detroit River lapping against the Windsor shoreline. Hart Plaza plays host to the event and does a marvelous job. Hart Plaza is said to be the spot Detroit’s founder Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac first landed in 1701. It is home to two amphitheaters, statues and sculpture, the first international memorial to the underground railroad, and of course the Dodge Fountain. Designed by Isamu Noguchi in 1978 this 30 ft tall stainless steel fountain pays tribute to Horace E Dodge. The fountain has 300 water nozzles that spray down into an 8 ft tall walled circular black granite pool, most importantly on a hot day it provides overheated pedestrians a place to cool off. Wander from stage to stage, or sit on the grass under a shade tree; you can  hear everything from traditional, New Orleans style, or Modern Jazz, the entertainment goes on for four days straight. The festival has gotten so big it now spills down Woodward right into Campus Martius, I think I counted six by stages in all. It is an incredible mix of musicians and fans, food and drink, sights and sounds.

gardens 1265

gardens 1282

gardens 1280

gardens 1276

Green Detroit

9 Aug

gardens1

On Friday, I had the great pleasure of meeting some amazing people; at the same time I witnessed with my own eyes the true meaning of community, kindness, generosity, and compassion. I imagine by now most people have heard about the “green” movement in Detroit, taking empty lots and turning them into gardens and farms. This is an enormous feat and is gone about in several ways; you have your Community Gardens, Urban Farms, and yet other spaces where individuals may rent private raised beds to grow food for their own consumption. I cannot think of a better way to use vacant land and at the same time unite communities, not to mention, feed people. We regularly drive by several of these gardens, but wanted to take some time to really seek out the ones off the beaten path, we were astounded by what we found.

gardens 004

gardens 023

gardens 010

gardens 017

Our first stop was the Georgia Street Community Garden, we wandered from the car over to squares of land filled with plants bearing summer’s bounty; tomatoes, peppers, green beans and okra were just a few of the vegetables being grown. Kris was hard at work taking pictures when Mark, the Chairman of the Georgia Street Collective came over and struck up a conversation. This is a man who has live in this neighborhood his entire life, he had grown tired of looking at vacant, trash-strewn lots and decided to make a change, thus the community garden was born. Mark is one determined fellow, having gardened with his grandmother growing up he had the needed skills to prepare the land, do the planting, and nurture the plants through to harvest.  The labor is done by volunteers, but all are welcome to take part in the bounty, just come and pick what you need. What started out as a community garden has now grown into a collective made up of several lots, fruit trees, flower beds, even a few animals, and there are plans to expand!Also, the neighborhood now enjoys a community center building, which they acquired for $1, and provides a positive environment and activities for children and families who live here. Mark is one ambitious guy who has proven that one mans vision can become a reality and truly make a difference in people’s lives.

gardens 060

gardens 085

gardens 045

gardens 101

Truly inspired we set off for the next location on our list, another community garden across from Forestlawn Cemetery; again we found a neighborhood in trouble, but along with that, a symbol of hope, of better days to come. A garden planted by neighbors and shared by neighbors, people coming together on their own, taking things into their own hands to create a better future for themselves. We stopped in at the Earthworks Urban Farm located behind the Gleaners Food Bank, Oh what a sight it was! Rows and rows of vegetables, green and lush reaching for the sky. Ripe red and yellow tomatoes dot the branches of enormous plants, bright purple eggplant dangle from branches, sunflowers stand guard high above the vegetables, you can hardly believe you are in a large urban city. The compost pile is mounded in a sort of berm along the garden getting ready for next season. This place is truly awe inspiring. Driving a little further on is a street named Farnsworth, home to a small community garden and several private ones. It seems as though many people who live here were attracted by the large empty spaces and the opportunity to fill them. On one corner we spotted what we thought to be a community garden, but as it turns out it belongs to a single family. Intrigued by the mass of vegetables, fruit trees and flowers I wanted to get a closer look. Lucky to find to the homeowner outside, he invited us into the fenced in yard to check it out. It took a full minute or two to take in the jaw-dropping expanse of the space; vegetables, herbs, fruits and flowers all growing side by side. Cantaloupe nearly the size of a soccer ball at our feet, hazelnuts clinging to branches on a nearby bush, Pears ripe and ready to pick, they even keep bees here! I have never seen anything like this anywhere, let alone Detroit! Turns out the homeowner outgrew his two lots in Southwest Detroit, and joined the many others taking advantage of the open space in the Farnsworth neighborhood. As you drive around the block even more gardens are sprouting up.

gardens 106

gardens 110

Looking at all this fresh produce got our appetite going, so to stick with the theme of the day we had lunch at The Raw Cafe on Woodward. Open for lunch and dinner the cafe serves up gourmet organic raw food, the menu changes seasonally, giving you the opportunity to try different dishes. It is just what it says it is, raw food; salads, sandwiches, pizza and pasta all ‘living’ foods. We selected a salad and a wrap;  both had nice flavors, super fresh crisp vegetables, a nice dressing on the salad, and tasty sauce in the wrap. Portion size and prices are consistent with the current organic/raw trend. The service was a little slow, so I wouldn’t stop in on a day you are short on time. They had a consistent flow of customers coming in for carry-outs and smoothies to go. UPDATE: As of December 2012 Raw Cafe is out of business.

gardens 145

gardens 160 (1)

2

With more gardens to see and the day growing short we visited the Spirit Farm over on Martin Luther King. Another large space, this one has a bit more whimsy to it. Wine bottles decorate a tree stump and are used to border different beds, discarded tires are put to use creating raised beds, chickens have their own fenced in space, and there’s even a small greenhouse, just amazing. In Southwest Detroit we took a stroll through Hubbard Farms Community Garden, I took a ride on the tree swing, the summer breeze gently blowing, as I studied the lovely site. Here again all are welcome; volunteer a little time to share in the upkeep, and the partake in the bounty. The largest area we saw this day was an Urban Farm over on Linwood and Gladstone, this farm is huge! If you see a large Urban Garden sign on the property bearing the Urban Farming logo you know that the food grown here is free to those who need it 24/7. This particular garden is self-sustaining, rainwater is collected and stored for future watering, it’s all so incredible to me. When we were there three people were out picking, toting large plastic containers to cart the farm fresh produce back to their kitchens. Sponsored by Coca-Cola and Home Depot several more of these urban farms are being planned. The Garden Resource Program provides support to more than 875 urban gardens and farms in Detroit, Highland Park, and Hamtramck and “Sweet on Detroit” supports urban bee keeping. I find it uplifting, encouraging, and heart-warming in this day and age where greed and selfishness seem to run rampant, that people are out there extending their hand, volunteering their time and resources to make the city of Detroit a better place for those who live there, and those spending time there.

gardens 174 (1)

Afternoon Delight; Campus Martius, Fountain Bistro, Chez Zara

2 Aug

park 084

From time to time everybody should be a tourist in their own town, you’ll be amazed at what you discover. Campus Martius Park opened downtown at the intersection of Woodward and Michigan Ave in 2004, immediately people flocked to it. I just love coming to this space, the fountain is probably the biggest attraction and can be seen from any location in the park. The large square granite basin sits centrally in the park, water gently cascades down the interior walls as jets of water arc from the corners. The interior of the fountain is composed of a smaller elevated granite square where water can shoot as high as 100 feet into the air. Jets of water dance to different patterns, visitors sit along the side or pull up chairs to watch the display, it is a favorite location for photos too. The fountain runs year round and provides a stunning background for the annual Detroit Christmas tree. 

park 078

park 009

There are many places to sit and watch the activities of the day; small round metal tables and chairs are available throughout the park area, do you want your umbrella up or down? The Michigan Soldiers and Sailors monument is here too, it was moved to the park and made into a fountain; have a seat on one of the benches carved right into the stone and watch the birds delight in the running water. The western edge of the park is bordered by granite water walls; let the sound of the running water enchant you as you relish the perennial gardens. Immediately east is Cadillac Square park, at the far end is the ornately carved Bagley Memorial Fountain. Bocci anyone? How about Petanque? Similar to Bocci, both are played in Cadillac Square, and are very interesting to watch. Whether you are new to Detroit or not Campus Martius is the perfect gathering spot.

park 085

park 073

Fountain Bistro re-opened in July and is a welcome addition to Campus Martius. Everything about it is new; from it’s sleek contemporary interior, outdoor patio and menu, to the recently acquired liquor license. We decided to have lunch there and check the place out. The staff was extremely friendly and welcoming, our waiter informed us that it was Happy Hour (Mon-Fri 2-7pm) and that all appetizers were half-off, domestic beer was $2.50, and wine was $3.00 a glass, yeah! The French-inspired menu has a lot to choose from, and it all sounds good; we narrowed it down to three. The Lamb Sliders, topped with homemade yogurt sauce that has a little kick to it, were delicious. The house salad was huge, for $4.00 we didn’t expect something that large; tossed in house made dressing it was tasty and not over-dressed. Sandwiches come with fries or a small house salad, we ordered the BLTA (applewood-smoked bacon, lettuce, tomato, avocado) served on a tender croissant it was entirely flavorful, the fries were good too. For $3.00 I ordered a glass of the house Cabernet Sauvignon, it was quite nice and a fair portion too. We really enjoyed our experience there and will be sure to come back. Next time you are in the city looking for someplace new to eat, or just have cocktails, stop in!

park 047

park 020

Operating out of the historic Kresge Building on Woodward is Chez Zara. This tiny storefront coffee shop serves Lavazza espresso from Italy. Their menu consists of the usual coffee drinks; Cafe au Lait, Mocha, Cappuccino, and Caramel Macchiato, etc. But when you come here you must order the house specialty: Nutella Latte! The current heat wave does not put me in the mood for a hot drink, so when we were deciding what to order Kris asked if they could make the Nutella Latte as a Frappe,” sure”, said the outgoing woman behind the counter. While our drink was being made we had the opportunity to speak with the crew of three and had a nice conversation about all the positives coming out of Detroit these days. When done our frappe was placed on the counter looking all chocolatey and shake like, I couldn’t wait to have a taste so I pushed in the straw and took a sip……sensational!  It was blended perfectly, no big chunks of ice clogging the straw, creamy chocolate taste with a hint of hazlenut, a Nutella lovers dream come true. Seriously, this is probably the best frozen type coffee drink I have ever had. I’d be willing to bet whether you had it hot, on ice, or blended as we did you would love it. 

park 103

NOTE: Chez Zara no longer operates out of this location. You can visit them in their new permanent home in the M@dison Building on Broadway, click on their link above for details!

Detroit Riverwalk, Slows BBQ, Astro Coffee

19 Jul

park 1539

Water, water, everywhere! Did you know that a person in the state of Michigan is never more than 6 miles from a natural water source, or more than 85 miles from a Great Lakes shoreline? It’s true!  I am not a water sports person at all, Boating, not my thing, I don’t fish either, but I just love the water. Living in southeast Michigan, I am a bit spoiled by the easy access I have to many  beautiful lakes and rivers. The Detroit River is situated between Lake Erie to the south and Lake St Clair to the north, it also divides the international border between Canada and the US. Ships travel this waterway to the St Lawrence Seaway and the Erie Canal, making it one of the busiest waterways in the world.

park 1604

park 1547

I have a great fondness for the Detroit Riverfront and River Walk. There are now 3.5 miles of the River Walk completed and open to the public; What do you like to do? There’s Yoga and Tai Chi, a Canine Club and River walking on the riverfront. Biking more your style? Wheelhouse Detroit is a bicycle shop at Rivard Plaza that offers rentals and tours. Have a soft spot for carousels? Take a ride on the Cullen Family Carousel, only a dollar a ride for kids of any age. I have two favorite places I like to hang out; the first is Rivard Plaza, I love to sit under the huge white canvas canopy and watch all of the action. This is where River Walk Cafe is located; you can grab a snack or beverage, maybe an ice cream, and sit at one of the numerous tables and watch all the boats go by, everything from fisherman and pleasure boats to the CoastGuard and ocean bound freighters. The carousel is also located here; I have taken rides myself, but find it’s just as much fun to sit and watch the faces of the riders. It’s a hub of energy and activity, gorgeous landscaping of stunning annuals, huge flowerpots overflowing with fragrant blossoms, raised pools of water flowing into waterfalls, groups of families and friends posing for pictures. On the ground is a map of the area carved into the concrete walkway, can you find your city? 

park 1550

park 1590

Steps away from Rivard Plaza is the William G Milliken State Park and Harbor, encompassing thirty one acres of wetlands, it is the first urban state park in Michigan and is a little more laid back than other areas. Follow the pathway along the riverfront to the new 63 foot light tower that marks the entrance to the 52-slip harbor. This is actually a scaled down replica of the Tawas Point lighthouse. For a change of scenery on your way back, choose the wetland pathway. There are plenty of benches and even some covered seating for you to sit and enjoy the spectacular views.

park 1536

park 1533

Just a short walk away is my other favorite spot, GM Plaza and Promenade.  As you approach this area you will first notice the high pitched screams of small children, not the ow I’m hurt, type scream, but the one of sheer joy and exhilaration.You see, this is where the fountain is located; it is actually a series of water jets sunk in the ground in a triangular pattern that shoots individual streams of water up into the air. Children and adults run in and out of the water, some race from end to end trying to make it all the way before the level rises, others are content to stand in the middle letting the cool water refresh them. The streams of water constantly change levels, there’s nothing more fun that watching someone who has never been before take a walk through the water jets at their low or medium height only to be caught in the middle when it shoots up full height….surprise! Again, there is plentiful seating here to take in the panorama, from this vantage point you will discover outstanding cityscapes of both Detroit and Windsor.

park 1575

park 1586

All that walking built up an appetite, our plan was to have lunch at Slows Bar-B-Q on Michigan Ave over in Corktown, but getting in can be difficult. You see, Slows has this amazing reputation for out-of-this-world Bar B Q. They have been on every Food Network show, movies stars in town filming eat there and then tell about it on the late night talk shows, USA Today and Bon Appetit have written about them,  the hype is enormous. Ordinarily I find when I eat at any of the in vogue restaurants they don’t live up to my built up expectations. That is NOT the case with Slows. Whatever you have heard is TRUE, it’s that good!  At 2:45 on a Friday afternoon the place was still packed, but we were fortunate enough to snag a table.  We ordered the Longhorn sandwich on Texas toast, this is a sandwich to die for; the most tender beef brisket you will ever have the pleasure of eating, sliced and piled high on toast, smothered with homemade onion marmalade, and topped off with smoked gouda and spicy sauce. We are also partial to the House Salad with their Honey Jalapeno Vinaigrette, what makes this salad stand out from the usual green salad to me is the sliced green olives, the Split Pea and Okra Fritters are something everybody should try, I know what you’re thinking, but I’m telling you; taste them. They slice up the okra dip it in a split pea batter and fry them up, served with a sassy dipping sauce and sliced dill pickle, delicious. The place is busy from open to close, once you eat here you can see why.

park 1621

park 1627

This area of Michigan Avenue is currently experiencing a great resurgence, thanks mostly to Slows. Just a couple doors down is a brand new coffee shop called Astro Coffee, which opened on July 12. We wanted to check it out and see what it was all about. The space is wide open, dark wood floors, and exposed brick walls give it an urban look and feel. A large american flag hangs on the wall near the door, a nice touch, the ceiling and light fixtures are bright white, large front windows give the place an airy feeling. The menu is written on an oversized chalk board sitting above a white subway-tile backsplash. On the counter in glass covered dishes are house made baked goods inviting you to partake. We had espresso and a cookie and both were excellent. It didn’t take long for the public to discover Astro and they are giving it a warm welcome. It’s a great addition to the neighborhood.

park 1632

park 1638

Detroit; Eastern Market, Traffic Jam, Bureau of Urban Living

30 Jun

eastern mkt,sat 119

There’s nothing comparable to a Saturday at Eastern Market, it’s like a weekly celebration of Summer, and everyone is invited. This time of year flowers, shrubs and trees are still prevalent, but early crops are starting to show up too. The bundles of lettuce are amazing, different textures and colors just waiting for your favorite dressing. Shed #2 was recently renovated and has the highest concentration of gourmet type foods; Avalon sells bread, Zingermans has a table with cheese, Russell Street Deli sells soups. You can find Perogi, sausage, popcorn, coffee and granola too. If you come hungry, you won’t leave that way!

eastern mkt,sat 003

eastern mkt,sat 016

Eastern Market has been in this location since 1891, it consists of a six-block open air public market in a 43 acre district of independent vendors, merchants, wholesalers, processors, and retailers of food products. It is the largest Historic Public Market in the US, it was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1977. Here’s another little tidbit for you: Part of the Underground Railroad went under Eastern Market to the Detroit River so slaves could make it safely to Canada. The privately owned restaurants, wholesale and retail shops are open Monday thru Saturday. Eastern Market only operates on Saturday year-round, but starting July 12 until September 27, they will now offer a Tuesday Market from 11am to 7pm.

eastern mkt,sat 097

eastern mkt,sat 021

Sheds were crowded with folks taking advantage of bargain prices, vendors were selling whole flats of annuals for $1, yes I did mean one dollar, hanging baskets 2 for $5, my favorite, a giant Yucca in full bloom with variegated leaves, which I have never seen before, was $15…..I think I need a bigger yard…. There’s something in the air here, people are always smiling, the food may have something to do with that.  Three different musicians scattered throughout the sheds entertained shoppers as vendors called out their just reduced prices, individuals arms were filled with flowers as thoughts of one more flat danced in their heads, discussions about how many strawberries it takes to make a pie could be heard in passing. On any given market day you will encounter a diversity of dress, overhear various foreign languages, walk among a multitude of strangers, try something you’ve never had before, and simply have a wonderful day.

eastern mkt,sat 025

eastern mkt,sat 100

 VIEW MORE PHOTOS HERE

With all the samples we ate at the market it’s hard to believe we could still be  hungry, but lunchtime was calling. Being such a beautiful day, the patio at Traffic Jam and Snug in Midtown was quite inviting. Traffic Jam opened in 1965 in this very space, it has an in-house bakery, microbrewery, and dairy, three of my favorite food groups! The menu is large and offers traditional standards like steak and Mac & Cheese to vegetarian dishes that will knock your socks off. One added bonus of having their own dairy is the award winning cheese they serve. We ordered the special of the day,  a platter with Camembert cheese, crackers, and a salad of spicy arugula and fresh berries tossed in a banana vinaigrette, my mouth is watering just thinking about it. The Camembert was wrapped in puff pastry and baked to perfection, the cheese creamy and mild like a Brie, delicious on it’s own or atop a cracker. The salad was scrumptious, the sweetness of the berries a nice compliment to the peppery arugula, and Oh that dressing, with just a hint of banana it pulled all the flavors together. Along with that we got TJ’s much loved nachos, a good sized serving of corn chips covered in melted white cheese with black beans, served with jalapeno slices, sour cream and salsa, makes you want to drive there right now doesn’t it? I have to say it was such a pleasurable meal, the food of course was delectable, but sitting outside with the sun shining, listening to the water trickle from the fountain just added to the experience. Here in Michigan we know how to appreciate a beautiful day.

eastern mkt,sat 124

eastern mkt,sat 128

Across Canfield from Traffic Jam is a charming little boutique called Bureau Of Urban Living. It’s one of those stores with attractive merchandise for your home that is laid out in such a way you want to buy every single thing. They have everything from wine glasses, dishes, and candles to note cards and a full line of Mrs Meyers cleaning products. The selection is continuously updated and also includes books and some jewelry. The interior has a modern, slightly industrial feeling, very cool, I enjoy stopping in whenever I am in the area. The owner is a huge supporter of Detroit, and seems to know everyone who has a small business in the city. Midtown is becoming more populated with independent little shops and restaurants and it’s a welcome evolution.

eastern mkt,sat 135

eastern mkt,sat 136

Gratiot Central Market, Roma Cafe, Germack, Mootown Creamery

15 Jun

untitled2

Eastern Market is without a doubt one of my favorite places in Detroit! Three of my best-loved activities; gardening, cooking, and shopping are all represented here….extensively. At this location since 1891 it is the oldest and largest open-air Farmers Market in the US, so it will take a few posts to describe all of the great things to do in the Eastern Market District. Come on down and check it out!

park 1192

park 1195

Today we’ll start at the south end at Gratiot Central Market. If you like meat, you will be in heaven. The main aisle-way is lined with vendors such as; Randy’s Sausage, Wigley’s Corned Beef, and Ronnies Meats displaying their finest cuts of meat, I have never seen so many ribs in one place. Of course they have T-bones and porterhouse,ground beef and chicken, but add to that list; chicken feet, goat,oxtail, salt pork, rabbit and tripe. Small shops sell BBQ supplies and seasonings,there’s take out food and a fish market too. I love the cheese shop, you can purchase items from Calder Dairy here, I have a tip for you: Buy the Chocolate Milk…….  If you like to barbecue bring along a cooler because you’ll want to stock up, prices are easy on the wallet. 

park 1197

park 1206

Walking down the Fisher Fwy service drive we poked our heads into Art Effect Gallery, they were getting ready for their Grand Opening that same evening, looking forward to stopping in next time we’re at the Market. A little further down on the corner of the service drive and Russell St is the Germack company’s store. Germack is the oldest roaster of pistachio nuts in the US. If you have a thing for pistachios either red or natural you’ve hit the jackpot! They sell a large variety of nuts and seeds along with delicious snack mixes,we purchased the Asian ZenSation mix, mmmmmmm, definitely stop in.

park 1214

Busy Bee Hardware located on the corner of Gratiot and Russell since 1918 has been in the same family for three generations. This is a real hardware store, if you need to repair something at home chances are you can find what you need right here. The store is a mix of old and new, it is somewhat a general mercantile with antique cabinets, a couple of vintage washing machines on display, and the only rope operated elevator in the city. The sign outside advertised pickle crocks, they still sell vegetable seeds like the old days, you can have a key made, and if you’re lucky, one of the owners will tell you a story or two. The place is great, seriously, you have to come in and walk around.

park 1218

All that shopping made us hungry, Roma Cafe, Detroit’s oldest Italian restaurant sits nearby on Riopelle, they have been serving classic Italian dishes since 1890. From the decor to the menu the atmosphere is unquestionably  old-time. Waiters wearing tuxedos serve you crusty bread with real butter, salads are prepared in the dining room where you can watch the action. We ordered Cannelloni and a Roma salad, the salad was really good, crisp lettuce, nice chunks of meat and peppers, seasoned with salt and pepper. The canneloni was excellent, tender meat filling in perfectly cooked pasta all smothered in red sauce and topped off with melted mozzarella, delicious.  

park 1241

park 1234

There’s a new ice cream place on Russell St, so we had to save room for dessert! Mootown Creamery & More recently opened next door to Supino’s Pizza, which works out perfectly for both establishments. The store is just charming, walls are painted pastel mint green with a white tin ceiling, tables are also white with pastel colored chairs, somehow this place has the feeling of being in a beach town….really. Large beautiful posters of ice cream cones dress the main wall. Mootown serves Hudsonville Ice Cream made in Holland Michigan, the rear of the store is a gift shop with plenty of pretty things to catch your eye. It is the perfect addition to Eastern Market.

park 1251


 

Pewabic Pottery, Russell Street Deli, Fou d’amour

9 May

park 061

On Friday morning the sun was shining brightly in the powder blue sky, clearly indicating a scenic drive along Jefferson was in order. It eventually leads you to Lakeshore Drive where Lake St Clair shimmers on one side and incredible mansions stand watch on the other.  We took a slight detour over to Kercheval for a mid morning snack at Fou d’amour (which translates to Madly in Love) in Grosse Ponite Park. Scones are the specialty here,  and they are scrumptious!  There are several varieties available every day along with seasonal selections. Our favorite is the white chocolate coconut, a tender scone, moist with just the right amount of white chocolate pieces and coconut woven throughout, topped with a light glaze and more coconut. The quaint interior is decorated in vintage Victorian style, it seats only ten, with additional seating outdoors when the weather permits. They also serve light lunch and a carry out dinner selection one night a week. These are truly the best scones we have ever eaten, just ask Clint Eastwood, he’s had them sent to him in California!

park 054

park 048

Back to Jefferson and a stop at Pewabic Pottery. Founded in 1903 by Mary Chase Perry, today it is Michigan’s only historic pottery. The current Tudor Revival building has been operating since 1907. You have probably seen Pewabic pottery and didn’t even know it! The decorative tiles in Comerica Park, exterior tiles on the Guardian building, People Mover stations, the DIA, even the Shedd Aquarium in Chicago is decorated with their tiles. Pewabic is known throughout the United States for their unique iridescent glaze developed by Ms Perry, and can be found in the finest homes in Detroit. Stop in and browse, the main floor has a showroom with items for sale, works from local artists and other pottery’s as well. You can also tour the studio itself, here ceramists are hard at work creating decorative items to grace any space indoors or out.  Be sure and go up to the second floor, here you will find the history of the pottery, and the current exhibit pieces.

park 073

park 062

park 056

Eastern Market is home to all things food, besides the many stores, there is a great variety of restaurants. Today we decided to have lunch at Russell Street Deli, there is usually a line out the door on a Saturday, being Friday we were hoping for a couple of empty seats. We were in luck and landed two prime counter seats in the front window overlooking all of the activity on Russell. Tables are large here, it is not unusual to have several different groups of people sharing one table. Don’t be shy, sit down and see how easily the conversation flows. They serve an awesome breakfast here, besides egg dishes they make a raisin bread french toast with toasted pecans and fresh fruit, served up with Michigan Grade A Maple syrup, delicious! Their lunch menu is extensive, deli sandwiches, salads, and soups, all made from scratch. We had the sandwich special of the day, pulled pork with cole slaw and a vinegar type sauce all served on a kaiser roll, along with a house salad. Besides the french toast, I don’t think we’ve ever had the same thing twice.

park 089