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Suburban Beauty: Holland Ponds

It seemed as thought Winter would not let go of its stronghold over southeast Michigan. As I considered the possibility of having to wear a winter coat in May, something wonderful happened; Spring arrived! Anxious to get out and enjoy nature Kris and I paid a visit to Holland Ponds, located in Shelby Township. This park has a fascinating story. Holland Ponds 200 acres was actually three parks in the prohibition era; Green Glen, Swiss Valley and Warsaw Park. Back in the 1920’s parks along the Clinton River were popular recreation areas for Detroiters looking to escape the city; with picnic areas, live music, bars, dance pavilions, swimming and fishing, it provided great entertainment for very little money. Carloads of folks would head to the parks on hot summer days creating traffic jams on Ryan road, it is estimated that the three parks combined drew as many as 15,000 people in one day, wow! Eventually the parks were closed to the public because of contamination leakage from the nearby G&H Landfill; it was one of the worst contamination sites in the nation. The EPA swooped in and the area became an EPA Superfund site, an ecological success, in 2001 the 200 acre site was declared free of contaminants and transferred to Shelby Township; hence Holland Ponds was born.

Today the park is home to ponds, marshland and woods, there are hiking trails, wildlife and the largest Great Blue Heron Rookery in SE Michigan. We begin our visit with a walk on the main trail, there are ponds on both the left and the right. On the left Canada Geese float silently by, an anxious mother to be sits on her nest shifting back and forth trying to find just the right spot. The muffled sound from a woodpecker calls our attention to the other pond, we watch as he pecks away in a stand of dried out reeds. In the distance we notice several turtles perched on a log getting their daily dose of sunshine. The park is filled with a series of connecting ponds, each one a different shape and size, the next one seems to be the turtle’s favorite as they are atop logs all across the pond; my favorite is the big turtle with the little one resting on his back. A Hawk calls out overhead, we look up into the powder blue sky to catch a glimpse as he flies gracefully above, a black bird with orange stripes on his wings serenades us as we stroll, frogs trill with amazing volume as gun shots penetrate the air, oh, did I mention there’s a shooting range near by? Not the best planning….. We enter an open area, wooden bird houses are mounted on posts, there is a bevy of activity as tiny birds fly in and out of the entrances. The grass has turned green seemingly overnight, the heavy rains have made it soft and lush. We hike on a dirt path into the woods, signs of spring are everywhere; wild daisies have pushed through piles of dead leaves to greet us, tiny purple flowers are intermixed in areas of patchy grass.

We walk until we come to the wooden stairway that leads us down the long slope of a hill, a bridge carries us across yet another pond. As Kris looks into the water he calls me over, a huge turtle rests on the bottom perfectly still, he looks ancient. The trees are full of buds, within days they will burst into bloom, bright yellow dandelions dot the landscape.The river is high and moving swiftly downstream as sunlight dances on the surface. We pause at the shoreline, the water is clear, a large fish is just below the surface. We follow the well-worn path a bit longer stopping off and on to take in the wonder of nature. If we continue on we will end up at Yates Cider Mill, no time for that today. We retrace our steps and end up close to where we started on the main path. We go right instead of left, this is where the Heron Rookery is located. We walk carefully and quietly as we stare out at towering trees, ah ha, there they are! Nests are large, there is much activity taking place. some of the chicks have already hatched and it appears to be feeding time. Parents take turns guarding the nest and feeding the babies, we watch this intimate process through the camera lens as to get a closer look. In this one area we count at least 20 nests, we observe elegant egrets as they come in for a landing a short distance from us. Photographers with tripods and zoom lenses are here to capture the beauty. The park is filled with wildlife from deer, fox and heron to muskrats, frogs and ducks; we’ve even seen ginormous beavers here. It’s a great place to get away and enjoy the sights and sounds of nature.

Next we are heading to downtown Rochester for the Michigan Earth Day Fest. Celebrating earth-friendly habits from buying local and organic to wellness products and services, there’s something for everyone here. White tents are lined up in rows in an open area, aisle ways are crowded with pedestrians carrying cold cups of lemonade and bags of kettle corn. We meander through displays of beeswax candles carved into shapes of beehives, mushrooms and tiny animals. One booth is selling handbags, totes and notebooks made of vintage vinyl records, they’re super cool, one handy craftsperson constructs charming birdhouses and outdoor pieces from tree branches, I can’t help but stop and smell the handmade bars of soap! On my right I see three full-grown greyhounds, I make eye contact with one and cannot resist his plea to be petted. The dog is sweet and gentle and looking for a home, I try that same pleading look on Kris, but alas there will be no greyhound coming home with us today. Toward the back of the exhibits brave boys and girls don helmets and harnesses as they climb tall rock walls, they’re really good at it, the petting zoo is crowded with children longing to hold the baby goat or feed the baby camel. We indulge in free samples of granola, salsa and pickles, I think it’s time for lunch.

We drive over to Walnut, one of our favorite restaurants, Smackwater Jack’s, has re-located from Lexington to Rochester, we have been anxious to visit the new place. The corner building is large, the interior, spacious and tastefully decorated. The menu board hangs above the register; we are happy to see the old familiar menu. We order a small New York pizza and a Greek Market Salad. Smackwater now sells local products from Cherry Republic, American Spoon and Leelanau Coffee, I check out the selection as we wait for our food. The pizza arrives showing off that famous braided crust that we love so much; crunchy outside, tender and chewy inside, it’s as good as we remembered! We grab ourselves a couple of iced coffee’s for the road, it has been a wonderful day filled with beautiful scenery and delicious food, what more could you ask for. UPDATE: Smackwater Jacks is now closed

Tags: Bird Sanctuary, Clinton River Parks, Earth Day Festival, Heron Rookery, Holland Ponds, Metro Detroit Recreation Areas, Rochester Michigan, Smackwater Jacks, visit detroit

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DETROIT: Gone Fishin’

4 Feb

The earliest public aquariums in America started springing up in the late 1800’s, large wealthy cities such as Washington D.C, San Francisco and New York were the first to build such an attraction. Detroit was not far behind, calling on Albert Kahn (again) to design the building, the Belle Isle Aquarium opened in August of 1904. Until 2005, it was the oldest continually operating public aquarium in North America. The city had fallen on hard times, attendance was practically non-existent, so the city decided to close it for good (duh!). Both the building and the fish had a loyal following; people who knew the aquarium could still be a viable attraction. Working together, raising funds, applying for grant money, volunteering countless hours cleaning and repairing the building and tanks, they finally succeeded; the aquarium re-opened in 2012, 108 years after it originally opened it’s doors. Currently you can visit on Saturday’s from 10am to 3pm, admission is free.

We have been inside the building a few times since its closing for special events, but we had not been back since its official re-opening, until today that is……There were a large number of vehicles in the parking lot, a good sign. We paused outside, getting a good look at the building; brick and stone, it definitely has the look of a different time. The entrance is a large, double stone arch, the very top ornately decorated, the second arch, the entryway, features the face of a mythological figure in the center. On each side large stone columns rise up, thick bands of icicle-like carvings give way to richly detailed capitals. Inside I am always taken aback, the barrel-vaulted ceiling covered in gorgeous green tile makes me feel as if I am underwater. Walls are black tile, tanks are inset, a half-wall runs down the center of the room, separating the two sides, it’s like going back in time. About a dozen tanks have been restored and hold live fish, eels and frogs and a coral reef; feeding times are written in bright colors on the front of tanks. Remaining tanks are ‘dry’ and are used to display work by local artists and items from local merchants, what a great idea. One of my favorites holds all kinds of memorabilia, postcards, and photos of the aquarium in its prime; they even have the original Albert Kahn blueprints for the building on exhibit, so cool! As we check out each tank we come across a young woman hula-hooping, the plastic ring aglow with L.E.D. lights, why not? About half-way down the tunnel-like aisle the ceiling opens up into a grand dome decked out in the same green tile, a skylight opens up to the sunny sky above. We come to the end of one side, turn, and walk back up the other, large free-standing tanks are surrounded by black tiles and are covered with a metal roof, resembling a small building. The space is crowded with visitors, multi-generational families out for a Saturday afternoon in the city, digital cameras and smart phones capturing the memories. The donation box near the entrance is stuffed with dollar bills, a sign of appreciation for this wonderful experience.

A few steps away is the Anna Scripps Whitcomb Conservatory, don’t ever pass up a chance to stop in. This building too is abuzz with people, we see some of the same faces we saw next door. Nature is always changing, there’s something different blooming each time we come, today the Orchids are dazzling, fancy cameras rest upon tripods capturing their beauty. Clusters of grapefruit hang from branches, oranges look ready to be picked The showhouse is winding down from the winter show, Poinsettias are still blooming in reds, pinks and whites. Soon they will be preparing for the Easter show, don’t miss it. We follow the narrow paths through the rest of the building, even a few of the cactus are in bloom. Both the conservatory and aquarium benefit from the newly formed Belle Isle Conservancy, these people volunteer their time and energy to take care of these incredible historic Detroit landmarks.

Time to eat! Located just off the river on Joseph Campau is a place called They Say…….Though the restaurant itself is not new, they have recently renovated and it is fantastic. It’s a two-story brick building, the wood trim painted red, the front a series of large glass windows. Inside feels upscale; exposed brick walls decorated with bold, colorful paintings featuring Jazz artists. The bar sits in the center of this room, counters line the walls inviting you to pull up a chair and have a drink. We are seated in the dining room in a comfy booth overlooking Joseph Campau, this room is also very attractive. The menu has something for everyone, a good place to bring the family or a group, we hear their wings are awesome. I order a cup of chicken potpie soup, it’s delicious. We choose the house salad, it is huge, the lettuce is fresh and crisp. The club sandwich arrives, four triangles surrounding a mountain of french fries. I remove the toothpick from the bread, wondering if I will actually be able to fit my mouth over the point, I sink my teeth in and find it to be wonderful. The bread perfectly toasted, mayo squeezes out from the layers, the bacon is crisp, I think they grilled the turkey, there is melted cheese and the crunch of lettuce and tomato. Kris and I agree it is probably the best Club we have ever had. I go crazy eating, Kris saves room for dessert, our waitress enticed him when she told us about their homemade bread pudding, he cannot resist. A large rectangle of warm bread pudding arrives, it sits in a bourbon sauce and is topped off with a dollop of whipped cream. I can only take a bite, warm and moist it reminds me of a cinnamon roll, the sauce is excellent. I watch as Kris does his best to finish it off, he sets down the fork and asks for a box, there’s always tomorrow! It has been another great day in Detroit.

Tags: Albert Kahn Buildings, Anna Scripps Whitcomb Conservarory, Aquarium, Belle Isle, Belle Isle Conservancy, Detroit Blog, They Say, visit detroit

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Categories Visit

DETROIT: The Amazing Guardian Building

29 Nov

It was the 1920’s and America was roaring. The Great War was over, the United States was coming into its own. We were changing everything; we put the world on wheels and now we were altering the face of city skylines with the skyscraper. In Detroit buildings such as the Buhl, Book Tower, Fisher and Penobscot soared high towards the sky, in 1929 the Guardian Building joined them. Originally named the Union Trust Building, Wirt Rowland of Smith Hinchman and Grylls Associates was responsible for designing the structure, and what a grand job he did! The Guardian looks as good today as it did in 1929; home to a branch of Bank of America, Pure Detroit, a coffee shop, cafe and City of Detroit offices, hundreds of people come and go from the building each day, free tours are available too. Let us show you around.

Located on Griswold Street in the Financial District, you can easily pick out the Guardian; while most buildings are made of limestone or granite, Wirt Roland chose a red-tan brick, I read that almost 2 million bricks were used to construct the 535 foot building. Be sure to spend some time taking in the exterior of the building; on either side of the main entrance Indian-like figures carved by Corrado Parducci represent safety and security, colorful tilework patterns enhance outdoor alcoves. Once inside be prepared to be awestruck, the lobby is magnificent. The vaulted ceiling is Rookwood tile from Cincinnati, colorful patterns in blue, green, yellow, red and gold dance across the space, floors are Italian Travertine and Belgian black marble, lower portions of the walls are Numidian marble and Mankato stone. It is here we meet up with our tour guide and Guardian Concierge Christopher; his enthusiasm for the building is apparent the moment he begins to tell us about it. The building itself is an Art Deco masterpiece, keep in mind it was built as a banking institution. The Indian motif is carried on throughout the entire structure; we find symbols of security, fidelity, safety and progress. Notched arches line the length of the lobby, at the end of each elevator hall are majestic stained glass windows featuring elaborate Indians. Our guide points out splendid lanterns that MichCon had made from the original architectural drawings found when doing renovations. Elevator doors are fabulous; Christopher shows us the letters UT carved into the doors representing Union Trust. We hop on the elevator and go up.

We stop on the executive floor; CEO’s, CFO’s and board members gathered here for important meetings, it’s very swanky. Beautiful wood lines the walls and floor of the outer area, inside the boardroom a huge conference table and chairs take up most of the space; walls are beautifully paneled, windows are tall and elongated and provide a picturesque view of downtown. Back in the elevator we stop when we reach the top floor: the Ballroom. The decor is reminiscent of the lobby; notched arches, bright colors, but here we get a panoramic view of the city and the river, wow! This time we ride the elevator back to the lobby, then head down the stairs to the safe. As we descend the design becomes less intricate, but it is not without decoration; Flint Faience tiles add a splash of color. We arrive at the safe, all of us walk inside as Christopher explains how cash was stored in piles back in the day. As we exit we stop and examine the door, they didn’t kid around when it came to protecting money. A small room houses safe deposit boxes, I imagine wealthy ladies wearing hats and gloves making frequent trips here to retrieve their finest jewelry for special occasions.

At last we arrive at the Cathedral of Finance, now called the Retail Promenade, it is stunning! A decorative grill made of Monel metal separates the lobby from the cathedral, a Tiffany clock graces each side of the grill, after many years of being dark it is once again illuminated, it is a true work of art. The main banking room was once lined with 80 teller cages, yes, you read that right, 80. The theme is Aztec design, the ceiling is hand painted in colors popular at the time including turquoise, and terracotta. Oils, acrylics and solid gold were used to achieve the look, it is amazing. The south wall embraces a giant map of Michigan; Michigania, the goddess of our state is placed in the center, symbols of mining, fishing, finance and auto manufacturing define commercial strengths of the time period, it is still in its original condition. Currently Bank of America continues the banking tradition of the space, who wouldn’t love to do their banking here? There is just so much to look at, it’s hard to take it all in, as many times as we come here I always manage to notice something new. This is where the tour ends, we thanked Christopher for a most enjoyable time. We had a quick espresso drink at Rowland Cafe, you won’t find a coffee shop with a better view, before stopping in at Pure Detroit to check out their latest offerings. From Detroit themed t-shirts and Pewabic Pottery to original artwork and a vast selection of books, the shop is home to “all things Detroit”. Whether you’re visiting from out of town and looking for something uniquely Detroit to take home or a local looking for a way to show your pride in the city, you’ll find the perfect item here!

We walked over to Woodward for lunch at Forans Grand Trunk Pub; in the mood for a great sandwich and a beautiful setting, it fit the bill perfectly. The building went up in 1879 and was known as the Traub Brothers Jewelry Building. In 1911 it was renovated and turned into the ticket office for the Grand Trunk Railway, the company’s Grand Trunk logo still graces the terracotta detailing on the front of the building. Inside they removed the second floor and installed a gothic style vaulted ceiling, the antique brass chandeliers are still hanging. The place has a definite sense of character, I can visualize folks lining up to buy their train tickets in this very space. The ticket office remained until 1934, in 1935 it was established as a bar and has been one ever since. We arrived after the lunch rush and took a table near the window, our waitress was quick to come over, take our drink order and offer us menus. Forans is well known for its commitment to the city and the state; they have 15 Michigan craft beers on tap and 100 more in bottles, they take the”Buy Local” trend seriously. The menu is filled with delicious things, they even have some of the old Eph McNally’s sandwiches (oh, how we miss that place!). It has been too long since our last Sabrina Duncan; turkey breast, dill havarti cheese, lettuce, tomato, mayo and honey mustard on an onion roll…..it was even better than I remembered. A side salad with their homemade maurice dressing and a pile of Better Made wavy chips completed our meal, it was delicious! Did I mention they serve Faygo? Yep, regular flavors come in a glass bottle, diet in cans, you just can’t beat a Faygo Root Beer.

Tags: Architectural Tours, Art Deco, Detroit Blog, Detroit Skyscrapers, Flickr, Foran's Grand Trunk Pub, Pure Detroit, visit detroit, Wirt Rowland

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Categories Visit

DETROIT: Dlectricity

31 Oct

The buzz had begun months earlier; articles in local publications, postcards on counters, something new was coming to Detroit. We were about to find out what happens when you combine 35 local, national and international artists with the historic architecture of Midtown Detroit; throw in a few projectors, lots of extension cords, and there you have it: Dlectricity! Billed as Detroit’s nighttime exhibition of Art and Light we couldn’t wait to see what it was all about.

As soon as we approached Midtown we could feel the excitement; none of our usual parking spaces were available, the sidewalks were packed with people all headed towards Woodward; word had gotten out. Finally parked, we joined the crowds walking towards the light; it was everywhere! Coming up Hancock we encountered our first group of displays; Frontier Town created a camp of illuminated tents, children flocked inside playing with the effects of light, a little further up a small park of glowing amber light flowers sprouted from the ground. We were drawn closer to Woodward by the maze of thin light sticks that resembled glowing blue cattails. We paused on the sidewalk for a moment to decide what direction to walk; I was astounded by the number of human beings walking around the streets of Detroit on a crisp fall evening, and in the dark no less… I have to say I was totally impressed by the attendance at this inaugural exhibition. Further North on Woodward we stopped to check out a cool installation; a string structure located inside Wayne States Welcome Center reacts to motions made by passers-by through interactive light projection, just around the corner in a series of windows, screens displaying classic films are the backdrop to live performances. Something big was going on at the Detroit Public Library, we were about to see for ourselves.

As we walked along the lively avenue we could hear music in the distance, bunches of people were gathered in front of the Detroit Public Library watching what appeared to be a movie projected onto the facade. In a technique known as Projection-Mapped 3D Animation, the artists are able to create a film that actually ‘fits’ an individual building, it’s incredible! “Knowledge Is Power” tells the human story of knowledge from cave painting to the invention of books, the age of electricity all the way to the rise of the internet. We stood at the library gates as images of fire crept up the building, suddenly it was a sea and a boat sailed by, the building was transformed into an ancient greek structure, then a library stacked with huge volumes of books, all the while music played creating the mood, it was fantastic. The DIA was simply lit and elegant as pedestrians flocked to her steps and stood on the porch. In front of the Rackham Building on Farnsworth a series of lit up bicycles tell the story of a bike ride gone terribly wrong, the Michigan Science Center was turned into a canvas for a video projection called Whale; taking up three panels on the exterior you feel as if you are underwater viewing an enormous whale.

Turning south on Woodward there was much more to see. The top three floors of the Garfield building were illuminated with random images and multi-color designs while word messages travel across the top edge. Earlier in the evening a Light Bike Workshop was held, followed by a bike parade, many of the participants could be spotted riding around Midtown. The former Agave restaurant, vacant for years, was brought to life with images of people going about their business projected onto the windows. Everywhere you looked there was light, movement and activity. An astronaut wearing a Red Wings jersey floated up high on a structure, the entire side of a steam plant was aglow in text messages generated by attendees. Orchestra Hall and the Max Fisher Music Center building was glowing in red, pink, blue and yellow; architectural details that may be overlooked were now distinctly apparent. One of the coolest exhibits took place on the side of Orchestra Hall; in what was called “Max Cast” the south wall of the building was turned into a giant screen streaming the live performance going on inside, a show titled “Cirque de la Symphonie”. There we were, sitting on a curb in Detroit,watching and listening as the DSO played enchanting tunes and world-famous cirque acrobats bend and twist into seemingly impossible poses, those assembled around us gasped and applauded in unison. The night was a magical one, made up of sights straight out of artist’s imaginations and shared by thousands of folks eager to take part in what Detroit has to offer; I can hardly wait for the next Dlectricity…..

It was late and we had yet to have our dinner, we had been meaning to get back to Small Plates since the ownership change and interior make-over, so that was the plan. We were lucky enough to score a table near the expansive front windows; greeted immediately by our waitress, we quickly scanned the menu. The premise of the restaurant is to promote communal dining by offering a wide selection of small sharable dishes or “plates”. After we placed our order we had a chance to look around; the walls are painted black, several graffiti pieces by Shades decorate the walls along with work by other local artists. The bar extends further now and was busy with patrons both eating and drinking, the place has a great vibe. Our small plates began arriving, first to hit the table was the hand-cut fries, served with sides of malt vinegar and a spicy aioli, they were really good. Thankfully the Pretzel Sliders and Hudson’s Maurice salad followed quickly along with the skillet cornbread. The sliders were wonderful, I especially like the pretzel buns. The salad was unique in that the greens were dressed and the other items were cut in chunks and lined the side of the good-sized bowl. The cornbread had just the right amount of crunch on the outside and was still moist inside, served with a side of black beans it made for a tasty combination. We ate and we drank, our waitress was a delightful mix of friendliness and great service. I couldn’t help but inquire about dessert; while I was longing for the Key Lime pie, I just couldn’t do it. We’ll have to come back soon and give the desserts a try!

Tags: Art In Detroit, Detroit Blog, Dlectricity, Midtown, Small Plates, visit detroit, Woodward Ave

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Categories Happenings

DETROIT: Palmer Park

25 Oct

I can’t even begin to tally up the number of times we have driven down Woodward past Palmer Park, we’ve attended countless home tours in Palmer Woods and the University District, and yet we’ve never been to the park itself. That was about to change; The People for Palmer Park were hosting an Architecture Tour of Palmer Park and the Historic Apartment District and we were going. A little history on the park: Designed by Frederick Law Olmstead (Central Park NY & Belle Isle Park) and Charles Eliot in the late 1800’s, it was donated to the city of Detroit by Thomas W Palmer in 1897 “for the good of everyone.” The parkland is 296 acres of lawns, woodlands, tennis courts, playgrounds, a public golf course, outdoor pool, hiking and biking trails. There’s Lake Frances, a historic log cabin and the Detroit mounted police horse barn. Palmer himself kept Percheron horses and Jersey cows in addition to orchards on the land. As recently as three years ago the city threatened to close the park; local residents stepped in and the park and surrounding apartment district are undergoing an amazing renaissance.

We arrived right on time for our tour; people were everywhere. Thankfully the rain had stopped and the sun was coming out; October 6th and we Michiganders were already wearing gloves. With tour books in hand our group walked from Unity Temple Church to Palmer Park stopping in front of the Merrill Palmer Fountain; built at a cost of 1 million dollars it was moved to this location in 1926. When I first see the fountain I am distracted by the weeds growing in the open spaces in the large circular pool at ground level, my eyes travel up one level to the smaller clover shaped pool, then up again to the centerpiece of the fountain; a large arch decorated with delicate carvings of cat tails and water lilies. The interior of the arch is inset, reminding me of a seashell; a large marble turtle is flanked by stylized fish, in my mind I can picture water flowing from the mouth of the turtle into the urn-like pool below. No longer bright white, time has not been kind to this incredible marble sculpture, yet it is still beautiful. It is easy to imagine the pools filled with water, the sound of water splashing on a hot summer day, how wonderful that would be!

We follow the wide sidewalk around the outer edge of Lake Frances, the cool nights have started to turn Maple trees red and orange, Weeping willows stand gracefully near the lake. Ahead is the log cabin, built in 1885 the Palmers used it as a summer home, the word “cabin” hardly does it justice, think more like “lodge”. Today the large wooden structure is secured with boards over windows, plastic drapes the chimney. We are told the interior is in good condition, it was open to the public back in June for tours. Walking around the cabin I notice the spectacular view of the lake, a miniature lighthouse is over to the left. We follow the group further on pausing at the Spanish Bell, in a fenced in area the horses are out enjoying breakfast and a bit of sunshine.

The Palmer Park apartment district has to be seen to be truly appreciated. We have gone past these buildings for years always wondering what they looked like inside, today we get our chance. The architecture runs the gamut from Spanish and Venetian to Moorish and Art Moderne, with a little bit of Egyptian thrown in here and there. We walk the neighborhood streets, buildings all bear names: The Florentine, The Luxor, The Cumberland Manor and Madrid Court etc. We arrive at The Walbri Court; built in 1925 at the request of Walter Briggs, Albert Kahn (who else?) designed the Georgian Style apartments for families with children. The apartments are now condos, one owner was kind enough to open his home for the tour. Each unit is 2,600 square feet, no, that is not a typo, and is located in its own wing, making them very quiet. This condo was stunning; the owner did a fantastic job of incorporating the old with the new.

The Spanish/Moorish style apartments are fantastic; usually asymmetrical the entrances are always in the center. Built by the fine craftsmen of the day, details are everywhere; carved stone, colorful tiles, wrought iron light fixtures, and that’s just on the outside! The Trucadero sports barrel tile roofs, the Luxor with its gold-colored brick is rich in decoration; a Moorish arch surrounds the front door, above it tile from the Flint Faience Co. shimmers in gold, the vestibule a testament to the beauty of the tile company’s work. The lobby is an unexpected surprise; moorish arches lead to hallways on either side, the ceiling is painted and stenciled, wooden beams are stenciled to match, get this: they are original to the building. Both of these buildings were built in 1928 and reflect the popularity of the style at the time.

On Whitmore we travel forward in time; 999 Whitmore built in 1937 is early Art Deco. Constructed of cast concrete, each townhouse is two stories. Our guide told us the building originally had a roof garden with a fountain, very cool. Proceeding on Whitmore we continue to move forward in time; 900 Whitmore built in 1944 is done in late Art Deco style, buff colored brick, casement windows and an oval courtyard in front make this building very appealing. Next door at 950 picture windows replace casements, it has a little more Moderne feel to it, 850 was built in 1952 and has much cleaner lines and surfaces.

As we walk through the neighborhood we are in awe of the contrast of buildings; fully occupied structures share the same block with nearly empty shells. Some apartments have been completely restored and others have always been lived in. The styles are vastly different too, making it a welcome departure from the type of building that goes on today. Near the end of the district we come across the Whitmore Plaza, built in a time when anything Egyptian was popular it snuck into every design style; here it is combined with the Moorish design and it works perfectly. Our last stop was one of the best on the tour; recently renovated and now accepting renters, La Vogue on Merton is the epitome of eclectic Art Deco. Burnt orange bricks are laid in fanciful patterns, green Spanish tiles accent porches, multi-colored tiles are scattered throughout the facade, a medallion of a sailing ship is located near the front door, the original address marker still hangs on the wall. The lobby is a marvel of Art Deco shapes and designs; painted in yellow and green it’s a knock-out. Apartments were open to tour; the floors are still the original, the units are updated with today’s modern conveniences. The owner of La Vogue owns seven other buildings in the district, all are to be renovated.

Time to eat! You may have noticed a whimsically painted house resting on the corner of Woodward and Golden Gate; this is the Innate Chiropractic Center and Golden Gate Cafe. Not sure if they were serving lunch on Saturday we parked in the lot in front of the house and investigated further. There’s a lot going on outside; sculptures, a pond with a water feature, landscaped gardens and cafe tables. We followed the walk to the front door; it was quiet inside, we were facing a counter and behind it shelves filled with dried herbs and other natural supplements. We heard voices to the right and followed them into the cafe. The informal cafe occupies a tiny space with just enough room for 1 large table and seating at the L-shaped counter. Chalk boards let us know the soups of the day and daily specials. A young man steps out from the kitchen and greets us; we decide on a bowl of black bean soup and the tempeh burger. Sitting at our table we conversed with a couple of nice ladies sitting at the counter who were raving about the soup. Our meal arrived; a giant bowl of soup garnished with house-made pita chips, very tasty! The burger was topped with sautéed onions. mushrooms, lettuce and tomato, delicious! A quirky, cool place to lunch, I’m glad we stopped in.

Tags: Detroit Architecture, Lizzie Merrill Palmer, Log Cabin Palmer Park, Palmer Park, Palmer Park Historic Apartment District, People For Palmer Park, Thomas W Palmer, visit detroit

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Categories Visit

BIKING DETROIT: Riverwalk & Dequindre Cut

19 Oct

If you’ve never seen Detroit on two wheels, you don’t know what you’re missing! Kris and I each have vintage bicycles from the late 60’s, early 70’s; banana seats, high-rise handle bars, and shifters, his even has a tall sissy bar. One of our favorite things to do is hop on the old bikes and take a ride through the city, today we were joined by a friend. The Detroit RiverFront Conservancy is responsible for this wonderful thing we call Riverwalk; with a vision of providing riverfront access from the Belle Isle Bridge to the Ambassador, it has become one of the city’s greatest assets. I like to start things at the beginning, in this case that would be Mt Elliot Park; the forecast promised sunshine and mild temperatures, for a change it was right on. The Riverwalk itself is constructed of a series of concrete slabs and multi-color brick pavers, decorative railings furnish a place to lean against while looking out across the river to Canada or a place to rest your fishing pole. We pedaled along, cruising past the UAW GM complex, Roberts Hotel with its outdoor patio, and the old Park Davis building; sparkling blue water on one side and beautiful historic buildings on the other. We make the jog to Atwater then hop into Milliken State Park and Harbor with its 52 slip marina and 63 foot replica light tower; it is completely unexpected and wonderful to find a state park inside a big city. A surprising number of boats are still in the water, large Weeping Willows sway in today’s gentle breeze, fishermen sit patiently soaking up the sun, waiting for the big catch of the day. We head back to Atwater St then to the Dequindre Cut, an urban greenway that links the riverfront to Eastern Market.

The Dequindre Cut was formerly a Grand Trunk railroad line; the 20 ft wide path is below street level, allowing you to get from one part of the city to the other without the hassle of crossing busy streets. Popular with both pedestrians and bicycle riders each are given separate lanes. Tall light poles display banners inviting us to “Play at Dequindre Cut”, many embrace the invitation. Today there are lots of people enjoying the path; joggers, casual walkers, serious bikers and photographers. Graffiti covers the concrete walls; once paint starts to fade and peel, it is scraped off and becomes the blank canvas for a new artist, the current array of murals is fantastic! We ride to the end, asking much of our thighs to push us up the ramp at Gratiot. We cross Gratiot and enter the hustle and bustle world that is Eastern Market on a Saturday afternoon.

All three of us were thirsty, luckily Germack Coffee Shop serves up some of the best coffee around. The boys stayed outside with the bikes while I went in to get our beverages; as usual the shop was busy, but the line moved quickly. I returned with two iced coffees sweetened with Germack’s own homemade vanilla syrup and an iced Chili Mexican for me. Armed with a little caffeine and a little sugar we were off again. We rode north on Russell and took a left on Mack Ave to Woodward. We turned at Willis making our way to Avalon to get some lunch. Along with amazing breads and pastries Avalon International Breads also makes a variety of sandwiches and salads ready-to-go from a refrigerated case. We were starving! All that fresh air and exercise built up an appetite. Kris stayed outside, saving us a table while Ben and I went indoors for food; we grabbed a variety of sandwiches and a salad and headed back outside for our meal. The sandwiches were interesting combinations of flavors served on a variety of their best organic breads, the salad was excellent; the dressing a homemade puree of strawberries and who knows what else, that was just delicious! We sat and rested in the late afternoon sun as we talked of our adventures in the city so far.

Riding at a gentle pace, we went north on Second over to Wayne State University; the campus is actually quite scenic and makes for a nice ride. Then it was south on Woodward, pedaling onward we took in the sights and sounds of the city; the detail of buildings much more apparent from this level and at this speed, two different wedding parties posed for photos in front of the fabulous Fox Theatre, at Hart Plaza we stopped and took photos of the bicycles. The vintage bikes are a natural conversation starter, folks come right up to us and share their stories of their own childhood bikes, all told with a smile on their face and a twinkle in their eye; I get a kick out of the ones who call out the bikes by name. Back on the riverwalk we ride over to the west end near Joe Louis Arena, taking time to pause at Cobo Arena and check out the renovations, can’t wait to see it when it’s done. Turning around at the end of the walkway it was back east for us. We stopped in front of Ren Cen and watched the kids run in and out of the fountain, the sight is always accompanied by the sound of joyful screams and laughter at a pitch that can only come from a child.

The view is spectacular; it’s hard to look away and concentrate on where I am going, the water looks as though thousands of diamonds have been sprinkled atop, the clouds in the sky have taken on interesting formations. Further down, the lure of the patio at Roberts Riverwalk Hotel proved too much to resist. We parked the bikes and grabbed a table with a picture perfect view of Windsor; Kris went inside to the bar and grabbed cocktails. The patio was full of wedding guests mingling before dinner was served, what a gorgeous venue for a reception. Evening was approaching quickly; time to get back on those banana seats.

Tags: Dequindre Cut, Detroit Blog, Detroit River, Detroit Riverfront Conservancy, Flickr, Germack Coffee Shop, Milliken State Park & Harbor, visit detroit

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Categories Visit

DETROIT: Mexico and a Movie

30 May

On any given evening you can find something interesting to do in Detroit. Kris read somewhere the movie My Week With Marilyn was showing at the Cass City Cinema at the Burton Theater; cool venue, fun topic, why not? The 140 seat theater is housed in the former Burton International School on Cass Ave. The old auditorium has been renovated into a legitimate movie theater equipped with the latest technology. Showing both Hollywood movies and independent films tickets cost only $5.00. Owner Joel Landy purchased the building in 2009, he owns many properties in the area and thought a movie theater would be a nice addition to the neighborhood.

The attractive brick building is easy to find; parking is convenient, they have their own fenced in lot adjacent to the structure. We were the first to arrive for the evening showing; with no other movie-goers to follow, we got out of the car and walked toward a sign with an arrow directing us to the entrance. We trailed from one sign to the next and then the next, where was everybody? Did we have the right time? Alone, we reached the door; once inside we encountered more signs and arrows directing us up the stairs.We came across this wonderful display of vintage projectors; that and the smell of freshly popped popcorn assured us we were on the right track. At the top of the stairs was a small concession stand to the right, ah ha! the source of the popcorn, the left wall displayed posters of upcoming movies. We purchased our tickets along with a bag of still warm popcorn and proceeded into the theater. The space is small, intimate and cozy; heavy curtains hang in the doorway dividing the lobby from the auditorium. The decor is definitely vintage; dark wood, antique light fixtures, velour seats. More people started to arrive; a mix of regulars and newbies, we all took our seats as the trailers were projected onto the screen. By the time the movie began I was comfy in my seat and surroundings, there’s something really cool about seeing a movie here. It’s like a private screening, your focus is entirely on the story being played out before you, drawing you in. My Week With Marilyn is based on the making of the movie The Prince and the Showgirl filmed in 1956 in England. I thought Michelle Williams did an outstanding job capturing the essence of Marilyn Monroe. We both found the movie quite enjoyable, can’t wait to come back.

For dinner we drove over to Southwest Detroit, there are just so many restaurants there I don’t know if we’ll ever be able to try them all; it will be fun trying! A little deeper into that section of the city is El Nacimiento on West Vernor. The dining area is spacious, the decor traditional Mexican. We sat in a booth along the window overlooking all of the activity outdoors. Our server arrived quickly with water and menus, multiple page menus, this wasn’t going to be easy….everything looked delicious. Moments later a big basket of warm chips arrived with a platter that held three different salsas, sliced radishes and lime wedges. We munched on chips sampling each salsa as we perused the menu, when in doubt order one of everything…….well, almost everything. We had a Botana, llomo tostada, chorizo taco, cheese enchilada and chicken flauta, it was all soooo good! There were lots of freshly sliced avocado, jalapeno, ripe tomato, onion and finely shredded lettuce garnishing each, well seasoned, each meat had its own distinct flavor. We could have easily fed at least one other person!

After leaving El Nacimiento we drove around a bit; over on Sprigwells St we noticed Sheilas Bakery was still open. Another thing we like about Southwest, things stay open late; where else can you find an open bakery at 8:30pm on a Sunday night? Sheilas is awesome; when you come in the door there is a series of large refrigerators with glass doors displaying a huge selection of beautiful sheet cakes. Sheilas is known for her cakes, especially the Tres Leches. The next section of the bakery is mainly traditional Mexican baked goods, we try something new each visit. This time we selected a flaky type rolled pastry filled with cream cheese and passion fruit, some kind of triangle shaped baked cheese thing, and I couldn’t resist a piece of yellow cake with the pink frosting and sprinkles. Too full to eat on the spot we took it home to enjoy later…….and enjoy we did! The cheese triangle kind of reminded us of a less sweet cheesecake, though equally delicious. The rolled pastry was light and crisp, the filling very tasty. The cake was exactly how good cake should be; moist and tender, the frosting creamy and delectable. The bakery also sells these amazing looking little desserts that appear to be a flower suspended in gelatin, next time we’re getting one of those. It turned out to be a wonderful evening of new tastes and adventures, I can’t wait till next weekend!

Tags: Burton Theater, Cass City Cinema, Detroit Movie Theater, El Nacimiento, Mexicantown Detroit, Sheilas Bakery, Southwest Detroit, visit detroit

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Categories Eat, Visit

DETROIT: Delights for the Eyes and the Appetite

24 May

You may have noticed the increasing number of posts we have been doing on art in Detroit, the reason is simple: Detroit is steadily taking over the spotlight as the hub of the current art scene in the Midwest. There is a new realization that the creative industries are important to today’s economic growth. The College For Creative Studies is a world leader in art and design education and plays an integral part in educating artists and designers in fields such as transportation design, film, animation, fine arts, consumer electronics, advertising and more. CCS was founded in 1906 as the Detroit Society of Arts and Crafts, today it encompasses two campuses and enrolls over 1400 students. The last couple of years we have made it a point to attend the student exhibition and sale held in the spring, it’s amazing! Held at the A Alfred Taubman Center For Design Education, the building itself makes the perfect backdrop for the art. Located on West Milwaukee the building was designed by (you know who….) Albert Kahn, constructed in 1928 and known as the Argonaut Building. Home to the former General Motors Research laboratory, GM donated the 760,000 sq. ft. structure to CCS. After $145 million dollars in renovation, Taubman being one of the main benefactors, the place was renamed and opened its doors to CCS and the Henry Ford Academy School For Creative Studies.

May 12th was the first day of public viewing and sales, so we were sure to get there bright and early. The exhibition takes place on floors 8 through 11, we like to start at the top. The building itself is fantastic, such character from the beautiful exterior brick and stone to the large windows and spectacular views. I always think an old building somehow absorbs the life of the activity going on inside its walls throughout the years, giving it a personality of its own. The structure feels solid, and sturdy. The 11th floor hosted Crafts, Fine Arts, Rugs and Transportation design, the level of talent displayed is phenomenal. Kris took special interest in transportation design, the student model shop area was open to visitors. As we walked around looking at the student’s work from rendering to models, I wondered if one of them may become the next Harley Earl, or Virgil Exner. Will cars really look like this in the future? The 10th floor exhibits were illustration, photography and product design, I think this was my favorite floor.

In my wildest dreams I could never even imagine being able to draw, paint or create as these talented people do. We saw so many pieces we would have purchased if someone hadn’t beaten us to it……Greeting cards, posters, canvas and skateboards all uniquely decorated with striking or amusing images. Each floor is large and takes a fair amount of time to browse. The 8th floor showcased advertising, entertainment arts, graphic and interior design. Small rooms were set up with televisions showing both animated and shorts. In the advertising area it was fun to see the interesting ideas students dreamed up for well-known items. As a whole we generally walked around feeling absorbed and entertained by our surroundings; certain things really grabbed our attention such as the images projected on blank walls changing shape and color. The art feels fresh and exciting like looking at the world through a 20-somethings eyes.

We walked through each floor twice, by then it was lunchtime. For years we have eaten at Seva which opened in Ann Arbor back in 1973. Much to our delight they recently opened a second location right here in Detroit. Tucked away on E Forest between Woodward and John R next to the N’Namdi Center for Contemporary Art, they offer both indoor and patio dining. The menu selections are completely vegetarian, don’t let that scare you, the food is fantastic, vegetarian or not! The indoor space is light filled, exposed brick walls remind you that the building was a historic garage, art work decorates the walls. The restaurant offers a full bar, fresh juice bar and coffee bar, not to mention some of the best food in the city. When we eat at Seva we have to have the Enchiladas Calabaza, try it and you’ll understand why….The delectable enchiladas are filled with a creamy concoction of butternut squash, cream cheese, green onions and chiles, topped off with a spicy tomato sauce, a winner every time. We paired the enchiladas with the spinach salad: baby spinach, avocado, char-grilled tempeh, cukes, red peppers and onions tomatoes and croutons served with an awesome smoky maple dressing, so good! We enjoyed a leisurely lunch and a cherry-lime Ricky cocktail, yum. Those of us in the Detroit area are lucky to have access to such high quality art and truly wonderful restaurants.

Tags: College for creative studies, Detroit Blog, Epic detroit blog, Seva, Student Exhibitions, Vegetarian restaurant Detroit, visit detroit

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Categories Eat, Happenings

DETROIT: You Gotta Have Art

11 May

There seems to be no end of things to see and do in Detroit; from places and activities that have been around forever to new things that seem to be springing up all the time. Today we were going to visit two places that may be a little lesser known, but are worth seeking out. We began with a trip to Southwest Detroit for some lunch. Mexican food is well represented in this district, but did you know there is an awesome El Salvordan place on Livernois? Pupuseria y restaurante Salvadoreno is a small cinder block building painted avocado green. It sits back off the road a ways, a large blinking arrow near the street points you to the building and adjacent parking lot. This is definitely a place for the more adventurous. Once inside you walk through an area reserved for people waiting for take-out, then into the dining room. The space is sparsely decorated; white painted walls and flags representing Central America wrap around the room, seating consists of booths and tables with metal folding chairs. As you may have guessed from the name, pupusas are the house specialty, they are delicious! The menu is filled with classic Salvadoran food; try several different things. We always like to pick a combination of dishes and share. Of course you have to have a pupusa or two; we chose the cheese and jalapeno and the pork, yum! A pupusa is made of a thick handmade tortilla with a filling in the middle, made to order they are served with curtido and a homemade hot sauce.. Curtido is a spicy cole slaw using vinegar instead of mayo, you place some curtido on top of the pupusa, hot sauce too if you like, and enjoy. We had an order of Yucca too, deep fried to a crisp light golden color, they could almost pass for french fries, also served with curtido, this one was a bit hotter with diced jalapeno. Last but certainly not least were the plantains. I’m not sure how they are prepared, but they arrive to the table all warm and golden; the outside caramelized and delightful. They are served with beans and cream, yeah, I know, sounds strange….The theory is to drag your golden plantain through the beans (they look like Mexican refried beans) then through the cream (I would describe it as a thin sour cream) and enjoy. You have to try it to appreciate it! Portions are large and prices fair so you can eat till your heart’s content, which is exactly what we did.

One place we have been meaning to go back to is the Russell Industrial Center located on Clay Street.You have probably seen the massive structure on the east side of I-75. We heard about the Spring Open House and were anxious to see what it was all about. Construction of the 7 building, Albert Kahn designed complex began in 1915 and was completed in 1925. The structure is made of concrete and large steel-framed factory windows, it has a total of 2.2 million square feet of space. Originally home to Murray Manufacturing Company, the buildings were originally used to make auto bodies and parts for numerous manufacturers such as: Ford, Packard, REO, Pierce Arrow, Auburn and Dodge; the list goes on and on. The building complex has changed hands a number of times, previous owners include: Harry & Leona Helmsly, Household International (Thermos), and in 2003 Dennis Kefallinos bought all seven buildings. His idea was to turn the complex into a mixed business community; there are currently 150 commercial tenants ranging from artists and craftspeople to printers and small businesses.

We arrived at RIC and parked. The only indication that anything was going on were a few balloons near the entrance; we opened the door, a sign directed us to the second floor. Here we found ourselves at the end of a very long hallway, miscellaneous furniture was randomly placed throughout the hall. We came upon an open door, inside was a glass studio; artists and visitors were scattered about the space, some working on a project others watching intently. We felt like we had the hang of it now, so we began the process of wandering from studio to studio, hall to hall. The building is enormous, some walls are decorated with murals, sculptures, tiny lights or signs; it’s all very avant- garde. We popped into an artists studio; over-sized paintings hung from the wall, we browsed the room taking in the view from the immense windows. In and out we went from the second to the third floor, room to room; jewelry, metal sculptures, photography and apparel. We saw vintage posters and amazing outdoor sculptures for sale. We spoke to the artists themselves about their work and the city.

We crossed over to building #2 and began the same process. A.K. Services is this incredible woodworking studio, an intriguing collection of antique chandeliers hangs from the ceiling. Alan not only does custom carpentry work, he has designed a line of furniture that he makes right there in his shop, the designs are really cool, check out his Quarnge chairs. We happened upon another glass studio where glass blowers were busy at work, don’t you just love watching them? The pieces here were awesome, they have a large display area and make everything from bowls and vases to windows and outdoor pieces. The artwork and paintings we saw were unique and funky, done by talented artists. We came across one section where a huge sculpture of found objects stood, as we walked toward it we saw another one in the distance, then another and another, finally leading us to the studio itself. We were invited in by a voice somewhere in the room, it was hard to tell where it initiated from at first due to the mass quantities of stuff that filled the space. We found our way to the person belonging to the voice and got an introduction to his work; pieces are eclectic, whimsical, and fun. They are brightly colored range in size from a few inches to many feet tall. The buildings are also home to graphic designers, architects and writers, there is a very creative vibe about the place. It was fascinating to be able to freely investigate this extremely cool old building. The place has an amazing history; this is the project that first brought attention to Kahn’s work, and a true industrial hub. The People’s Art Festival takes place here each September, I highly recommend a visit.

Tags: Art In Detroit, Pupusas, Russell Industrial Center, Salvadoran Food, visit detroit

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Categories Eat, Visit

DETROIT: Dinner & A Show

2 Apr

Detroit is home to a fantastic array of wonderful restaurants, how lucky are we? Every once in a while it’s nice to splurge and visit one of the high-end places, which is exactly what we did on a balmy March evening. Opus One resides on Larned Street, in what was once an old Taxi garage, you’d never know it by looking at the place! Opened in 1986 by third generation restaurateur Jim Kokas, the quality of the food and service is definitely upscale. We arrived just in time for our 6pm reservation, the Bistro Bar was busy with the after work crowd. Here you can enjoy a delicious meal in an informal setting, or simply have a drink while watching the game. We sat in the swanky dining room; cloth tablecloths, white napkins and candles dress each table, soft lighting and warm tones set the relaxing mood. Our servers were friendly and attentive, rattling off a list of mouth-watering specials. We started with the Chilled Quinoa and Avocado Salad, absolutely scrumptious. I chose the Baked Pinwheel of Norwegian Salmon with spinach and Brie, served with haricot verts and rice with a Buerre Blanc sauce, it was amazing! Kris ordered the Opus One “All Day” Blueberry Braised Beef; served with cheddar mashed potatoes and haricot verts with roasted corn, it looked delectable. The beef was melt-in-your-mouth tender and a nice portion too. Opus One is also known for their dessert cart, yes, cart not tray. I saw it go by several times and could barely tear my eyes away from it, but after that incredible meal, we just couldn’t do it. There’s always next time!

If you like theatre, there is an endless variety of choices in Detroit; from professional and touring companies to local talent, a show is just a ticket away. Since 1963 Wayne State University’s Hillberry Theatre has been the home of the first and only graduate repertory theatre company in the country. From October to mid-May the company performs six classic and modern plays in rotating repertory. They do everything from acting and costume design to lighting, set design and theatre management. All of this takes place in the former First Church Of Christ Scientist, located on Cass Ave in the heart of the WSU campus.Tonight’s show was Summer and Smoke, I am a big Tennessee Williams fan, so I was looking forward to the production.We entered the theatre itself to locate our seats, pausing at the back to look at the set. The scenery captures the setting of 1916 Mississippi; for this production all activity takes place in two rooms, side by side sections of Alma’s home and Johnny’s office.The story of Summer and Smoke captures all of the Tennessee Williams nuances that I love, his work is timeless. The actors vividly bring the characters to life, we are able to feel their joy and frustration, their pain and finally their resolution.

It was late, but we thought we’d make one more stop before calling it a night. Still full from dinner, a nightcap seemed like a good idea. There is always a bar open somewhere in Hamtramck, the only hard part is choosing one. As we drove down Joseph Campau we noticed an open parking space right in front of 7 Brothers, decision made. We have been here before and love the vintage bar, so it’s always fun to come back. 7 Brothers is in a shotgun style building; long and narrow, with Bar only seating. It’s everything you could want in a “dive bar” without the Dive Bar prices….. Entertainment consists of a Jukebox, pool table and dart machine, and they only accept CASH. Owned since 1977 by a man named George, it is not unusual to find him sitting at the bar as he was on this night. Curious, we asked the age of the Bar (not the building) and were told it went back to pre-prohibition days. Behind the bar is one of those gorgeous wood bar cabinets, the kind with the mirrors and shelves to hold all of the liquor, it looks to be from the 30’s or 40’s. The opposing wall is plastered with headshots of actors both local and famous, this is a popular hang-out for thespians from Planet Ant and beyond. The atmosphere is casual and relaxed, fellow patrons were friendly and talkative, a nice way to end the evening.

The city is always full of things to see and do, all you have to do is look!

Tags: 7 Brothers Hamtramck, Detroit Blog, Detroit Fine Dining, Hillberry Theatre, Opus One, Repertory Theatre, visit detroit, Wayne State University

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Categories Visit

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