Tag Archives: Detroit Blog

Scenic back-roads: Ann Arbor to Hell

26 Oct

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 In Michigan you have to take advantage of every nice day that comes along, so when presented with a beautiful Autumn day jump in the car and take a drive. The Ann Arbor area has some of south eastern Michigan’s most scenic roads, so that’s where we headed.  First stop lunch. Located on S Division at Packard( Krazy Jim’s is now located at 304 S Ashley St) is a tiny unassuming little storefront with a bright red awning. You’d never know by looking at it that this place has been serving up some of the best burgers around since 1953. This is the home of Krazy Jim’s Blimpy Burger, the burgers have won numerous “best of” awards for years and was even featured on “Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives” back in 2008. There’s a reason for all of this attention: these guys know hot to make burgers, they even grind their own meat.

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There are certain rules to ordering here, which of course, we were not aware of. If you aren’t doing it right, they’ll let you know, and being a first-timer is no excuse. You order cafeteria style, each patron is give a tray that you slide along the counter, stopping at each station, or cook. First up, the fryer; what will it be? Fries, onion rings, or a pile of mixed veggies battered and deep fried. Next, tell them how many patties you’d like; 2, 3, 4, or 5, you must also choose your bun at this point. After that is your choice of grilled items, I went with onions, hot peppers, and mushrooms, the list of options is long and you have to think fast if you don’t want to be scorned. Cheese on your burger? Finally, choose your toppings, such as olives, tomatoes, or pickles, followed by condiments. Finally the whole burger is wrapped up in one of those wax paper sheets; the bun gets steamed from the warmth of the burger and the cheese gets gooey and slides out from under the bun. We took our tray loaded with 2 burgers, fries and a pile of veggies over to the window seats and dug in, now I know what all the fuss is about. We finished lunch and headed North on Main street to Huron River Drive , the road starts just as Main is merging onto M-14 , don’t blink or you’ll miss it .

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Huron River Drive is one of the prettiest roads around, it hugs a portion of  the Huron River as it twists and turns through 5 counties and 13 Metro Parks and State Recreation Areas. The river travels a total of 136 miles to the mouth of Lake Erie and is the only state designated scenic river in south east Michigan. We left downtown Ann Arbor and headed north west on Huron River Drive, the scenery is picturesque, especially this time of year. Canoes and kayaks paddle along the calm water, groups of cyclists hold tight to the shoulder as swans float along gracefully. Large windowed homes watch over the activity from their perch up on the hilltops. The view changes with each curve of the road and it’s wonderful. The speed limit is low, 35, and there are no stop signs in this section so you can truly enjoy the ecologically diverse surroundings. Huron River Drive ends in Dexter,  from there we hung a left, cut through town and continued on to Jenny’s Farm Market.

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Jenny’s has been one of our favorite places to visit in Autumn for years. You enter the market area through a covered patio, here you will find glass jars filled with items like sweet hot pickles, a variety of salsa’s, jams, pickled vegetables, maple syrup and apple butter. Walk up to the counter to purchase a gallon of cider and Jenny’s delicious pumpkin donuts, check out the homemade pies and pumpkin bread too. Make your way back outside to visit the animals; donkeys, horses, baby cows and goats all vie for your attention (well, ok they may be looking for food). The animals are friendly and you are close enough that you can pet them too, they’re all so cute. Other activities include a straw maze, hayrides and pony rides for kids, everyone seems to be enjoying themselves here. If you’re in need of decorative items for your home, look no further; cornstalks, mums, and of course an abundance of pumpkins are available.

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From the market we took lovely Dexter-Pinckney Road north; this stretch of road winds through the countryside passing small lakes, charming homes and marshy areas. We made our left on Darwin Road and knew we were going straight to Hell, Hell Michigan that is.  With a name like Hell you have to make the most of it, and the owners of Screams Ice Cream and Miniature Golf have done just that! Inside Screams every day is Halloween; decorations, costumes, and scary masks. There is also a great variety of “Hell” T-shirts, to let everyone know you’ve been to, well…..Hell. We passed on the ice cream and played miniature golf instead.  When it comes to miniature golf, except for the rare miracle shots where I have gotten a hole-in-one I suck, my husband on the other hand plays well, and always wins. The 18 hole course continues the campy Halloween/haunted theme, it is clever, and a lot of fun. Outside there are several large sheets of plywood painted with scenes and a devil or Big Foot with the face missing, just waiting for you to insert yours for those awesome souvenir photos. To one side of Screams runs Hell Creek where there is a small dam, the Dam Site Inn restaurant sits here in case get hungry on your travels. If you find yourself with nothing to do on a gorgeous Autumn day, go to Hell.

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Derby returns to Masonic Temple !

11 Oct

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Summer has come to a close, the kids are back in school, and a new sports season has begun. People are flocking to football games at colleges and NFL cities, the NHL is set to begin while the MLB is in the process of crowning their champions. Also ready to kick off a new season are the Detroit Derby Girls, of the Women’s Flat Track Derby Association, that’s Roller Derby to you and me!

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Yes folks, Detroit has its own Roller Derby league, and they play downtown at the Masonic Temple. Though it bears similarities, this is not the same roller derby you may remember from years ago. Gone are the knock-down-head-slamming fights of the past; hair pulling, tripping, and punches are not allowed. What remains are women bearing campy names like Maim West, Ghetto Barbie, Tara To Pieces and Fatal Femme, skating on 8 wheels around an oval track trying to score more points than their opponent; It’s a blast!

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Like any worthwhile sport they hold an annual draft, and the public is invited. The Draft Party gives the fans a sneak peek of the upcoming season, the class of 2011 looks promising. I can’t think of a cooler venue anywhere than the Masonic Temple. Made of Indiana limestone and resembling a Medieval castle, the Masonic Temple opened in 1926 on Thanksgiving Day. The main lobby is fashioned after a castle in Sicily, it is Gothic in style and absolutely magnificent in person. The derby is played on the third floor mezzanine, before you head up in the elevator take some time to notice the details; The brass floor plaque is 5 feet in diameter and features symbols of Truth, Strength, and Charity. The specially designed chandelier is impressive, as are the brass elevator doors; symbols of the Craft are carried out through the entire building. The  derby takes place in the Drill Hall; 17,500 square feet of open floor space. The drill hall is equipped with one of three “floating” floors in the US. The wooden floor is laid out on felt cushions, allowing the floor more ‘give’, it was meant to relieve the feet of the marchers who practiced here, today it helps make the landings of wayward skaters a little less brutal.

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The action had ended at the Masonic, now it was time for dinner. There’s a great little pub on Trumbull across from the Wayne State athletic field called Woodbridge Pub, it takes its name from the historic neighborhood  where it resides. The facade is brick with large windows overlooking Trumbull, the interior is vintage with the majority of it rescued from old buildings and re-purposed. The tin ceiling and rich wood give it just the right amount of charm. The menu varies season to season, they say the majority of their ingredients come from within a 5-mile radius, talk about local! This is not your typical bar food, as a matter of fact I don’t think there is even one item on the menu that is fried. Meat-eaters and vegetarians will be equally impressed with the quality and selection.  We were really hungry, so we ordered the Queso Fundido appetizer; pork chorizo, cheese, and bell pepper blended smooth and served piping hot with corn chips. Next up the Cherry Chicken Salad with the homemade cherry vinaigrette, delicious, and one of our go-to menu items. Finally, the Stever McFever; a black bean burger topped with grilled onions, tomato, avocado creme, and a balsamic glaze, scrumptious. The pub has a great neighborhood feel, and has been a great addition to the area. 

DETROIT: Elmwood Cemetery, Red Smoke & Astoria Bakery

6 Oct

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Detroit is home to some magnificent cemeteries; we have spent time in them walking around the beautiful grounds, looking at monuments with incredible details, and reading the names of people whom so many streets are named after. Today we were joined by friends to take a guided tour.

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Elmwood Cemetery was established in 1846, it is the oldest non-denominational cemetery in Michigan; Mount Auburn cemetery in Cambridge MA was it’s inspiration. When Frederick Law Olmsted was in Detroit working on Belle Isle, he was asked to come in and give his ideas on how to improve the design and layout of the park; we have him to thank for the many scenic vistas in Elmwood. The cemeteries main buildings are the Gatehouse, built in 1870 in the Victorian Gothic style, and the Chapel built in 1856 in the Norman Gothic style, both are made of limestone and are stunning. The grounds themselves are gentle rolling hills with some unusual and rare fauna enhancing the scenery, it’s really quite lovely. Olmsted said “Elmwood is the kind of place we call peaceful, it invites rest and contemplation”, I couldn’t agree more.

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Elmwood has a great deal of historical significance; There are 6 governors, 30 mayors, judges, doctors, and businessmen entombed here. Some names you may recognize: Lewis Cass, Russell Alger, Elijah Brush, Edwin Denby, Mother Waddles, and Coleman Young. A special lot was designated for those who fought in the Civil War. A creek runs through the valley, originally called “Parents Creek”, it was renamed “Bloody Run” when the Indians led by Pontiac rebelled against British troops. They say Parent Creek ran red from all of the British blood that flowed into it, thus giving it the name The Battle of Bloody Run. The trustees of Elmwood have preserved this historic section of the cemetery. Mausoleum Row is a series of 5 private mausoleums built into a hillside standing side by side ; Prominent family names are etched into the gray granite, ornate doors and windows decorate the structures adding architectural interest. Here monuments come in all shapes and sizes; Celtic crosses, obelisks of varying heights reach up to the sky, female statues grieve loved ones as they are perched upon a bases bearing the name of the deceased, and enchanting angels adorn family memorials. From simple elegance to extremely ornate I could walk for hours taking them all in. Tour guides are filled with fascinating stories, I love being able to connect the dots between the people and the places, it enriches my experience even more. CLICK HERE for slideshow of Elmwood.

October is Cemetery Tour Month with Preservation Wayne, I highly encourage you to check their website and see what tours are available. They are also doing a Haunted Fort Wayne Tour towards the end of the month.

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Lunch was next on the agenda, the tour ran a little long so we were extra hungry. We had made up our minds to eat at Red Smoke in Greektown, and because we were sort of in between lunch and dinner we had no problem getting in. The restaurant is housed in a 2-story historic building on Monroe, the floor plan is open, you can see right up to the second level where an over-sized mobile dangles red and pink cut-outs of pigs. The decor is contemporary; stained concrete floors, light colored wood, black chairs and indirect lighting, very nice. The menu offers a nice variety of BBQ fare, it all sounds so good! There were four of us at our table, all together we ordered the Rib Tips with homemade spicy potato chips, a brisket and pulled pork combo, the Bar B Q Beef Brisket sandwich on Texas Toast, the cole slaw, corn relish and Macaroni and cheese. It was all delicious, my favorite side was the Mac & Cheese; the noodles were cooked perfectly, the sauce creamy, and the topping had a little crunch to it, one of the best I’ve had. We had the Jalapeno Cheddar Corn Bread Skillet for an appetizer, scrumptious, I definitely recommend trying it. The two favorite sauces at our table were the Roasted Poblano and the Michigan Cherry Molasses.

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If you’ve ever been to Greektown chances are you’ve been to Astoria Bakery. Established in 1971 Astoria’s is famous for its splendid baked goods; it has been featured on the Food Network, and is the go-to place for out-of town visitors and locals alike. Come through the door, the left wall of the store is a long glass case filled with mouthwatering items. What are you in the mood for? There are the traditional Greek pastries; Baklava, Birds Nest, Pistachio Baskets, and Walnut Rolls. Maybe you’d prefer a napoleon, macaroon, cannoli, rumball, cookie, slice of cheesecake or torte. We had a pecan pie brownie, fabulous! They also serve ice cream and coffee drinks, you can have a seat and eat in, or fill a white cardboard box to go. The place is always buzzing with activity; don’t be put off if there is a line, these guys are pros, you’ll have your order in no time.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  

Fenton: A J Phillips Museum, The French Laundry, Cooks Farm Dairy

23 Sep

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At the first sign of cool, crisp Fall weather our road trip season kicks into high gear, so top off the gas tank, buckle your seat belt and get ready to wear your car out! You may not be aware of it, but there are wonderful scenic roads leading to picturesque little towns all around the metro area.

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Today we are heading northwest to Fenton; a lovely small town great for a day trip. The Shiawassee River flows over a dam and through the park in the center of town, take a stroll  along the walkway by the river, or have a seat under the old-fashioned gazebo; the scenery is pretty as a picture. Large pots are spilling over with brightly colored flowers, people in kayaks paddle down the river, a family feeds a large gathering of ducks on this bright Sunday afternoon. The park is overlooked by City Hall, across the street is the Fenton Community and Cultural Center designed by Eliel and Eero Saarinen. We rambled down the street to the AJ Phillips Fenton Museum which tells the story of Fenton’s history; modest in size it contains an abundance of information. From vintage clothing, tools, newspapers and photographs everything has a tie to the city. The Sights and Sounds area has some great old tv’s  and cameras. The main area is devoted to military and war items; the key piece is a sword belonging to Col. William Fenton himself. It’s really a fascinating place and well worth a visit. The downtown still retains much of it’s historical charm and Majestic century old homes grace the neighborhoods.

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On the corner of Shiawassee and Adelaide sits the French Laundry, an awesome, nearly impossible to get into restaurant. We have been coming here for years and have watched it change from a little one room deli to a full service restaurant. They have stuck with their incredible deli menu (think Zingerman’s in Ann Arbor), and just added to that. Sandwiches are served on great breads and piled high with high quality fillings, everything is made with the freshest top-notch ingredients, coffee drinks and baked goods are out-of-this-world. The place is inviting; the original section has that charming deli feel, while the new section is more contemporary, the patio seating is delightful; which all explains why it is so hard to get into! The weather was perfect; we lucked out and sat at a table outdoors, after staring at the menu we ended up with a #40″Floydian Slip”: Homemade chicken salad, cream cheese, raspberry preserves all rolled up in whole wheat flat bread, so good, you have to try it. Along with that we had a #57 “Peanut Butter & Brady Time”: Peanut butter and strawberry preserves, bananas and vanilla marshmallows all squeezed between 2 pieces of grilled cinnamon raisin bread, As much of a dessert as a meal! I had to have a side of their tasty potato salad too, everything was scrumptious.

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We left Fenton heading east on Grange Hall road, this is a great route to take; pretty roads passing through wooded and hilly areas. Head southbound on M15 and continue twisting and turning through the scenic countryside. Go east on Seymour Lake Rd, but stop when you arrive at Cooks Farm Dairy in Ortonville. This place is awesome! This dairy farm has been around for decades; think of it as a sort of petting farm that serves some of the best ice cream and dairy products you will ever have the pleasure of tasting. I start out by visiting the baby cows in their little pens; they don’t get cuter than this. The pigs are a little further back from the barns and are always fun to watch. The big cows are doing all the work; someone has to make all the milk. At Cooks they grow the corn that feeds the cows, the cows produce the milk, and the Cooks turn it into ice cream, chocolate milk, butter and eggnog, all available for you to purchase in their storefront. Portions are HUGE, the flavors are incredible, the experience, priceless.

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Dally In The Alley, Vicente’s Cuban Cuisine

21 Sep

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The Dally In The Alley street fair is a celebration of life in the Cass Corridor. It takes place annually the Saturday following Labor Day and is the longest running neighborhood festival in Detroit, once you attend you will see why!  The Dally is a bit quirky and eclectic, it has an energy all its own as it spreads out through the streets and alleys sandwiched between Second and Third and Forest and Hancock. There’s a little bit of everything; Politics and religion, artists and makers of handcrafted items, food from local restaurants, beer, vintage goods, and merchandise from local vendors. If you are in the market for a Detroit t-shirt, look no further, there are dozens of different styles.You can talk to a Master Gardener, or take your children to the kids space in a grassy backyard where they can create their own works of art. The environment itself is cool and unusual; I find the alleyways just as interesting as the street side of the neighborhood, an old brick garage rests behind the homes looking much like it did in the late 1800’s.

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The main focus is music; with 183 submissions this year and only 43 slots to fill the bands were amazing! Four stages featuring local musicians play everything from Electronic to Folk with the emphasis on Rock, music runs  from noon until 11pm. Balconies of surrounding historic buildings are packed with people hanging out listening to the music, groups of friends catch up with each other standing in an alley way drinking ice-cold beer out of clear plastic cups,tiny dogs poke their heads out of shoulder bags looking to see what all the excitement is about, I just love this festival. Organized by North Cass Community Union, a non-profit group working to prevent urban removal of gracious historic buildings;there are no corporate sponsors, the cultural diversity is dynamic, the mix of attendees wide ranging.The later you arrive the more crowded it becomes, we try to get their when it opens and by the time we leave it’s packed. Dally does a great job showcasing what makes Detroit unique, one of my favorite t-shirts there said: “Detroit is the next Detroit”

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The city was alive; Dally in the Alley draws a good crowd and the Detroit Tigers were playing at home, we needed to eat somewhere that parking wouldn’t be too difficult. Vicente’s  over on Library was our best bet, we hadn’t been in a while so it was a good choice all around. The interior has a great Havana feeling to it; light-colored walls with large paintings, wood plank flooring, and a dance floor in the middle. Every Friday and Saturday night they offer Salsa lessons, afterward you can practice your new moves right there on the dance floor. This family owned restaurant opened in 2005 and was one of the first places in the metro area to offer authentic Cuban cuisine. The menu is extensive; Tapas, Entrees, Sandwiches, and a killer Sangria, it’s hard to decide. The Chilean chef does a wonderful job capturing the flavors of Cuba. We had the Cubano Grande Sandwich, so, good; pressed perfectly the meat was warm, the cheese gooey, the pickles crisp and all the flavors were melded together. The Cuban pepper salad was delicious, the vegetables were fresh with a nice crunch and it is topped with a tasty vinaigrette. The fried sweet plantains were some of the best we’ve had. 

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The warm temperatures beckoned us to take a jaunt around the neighborhood. Just a short distance away in what is referred to as Harmonie Park is a cozy little park that pays tribute to Detroit’s own Paradise Valley. Trees line the length of the park on both sides, a few stairs lead you down to the seating area where you can relax to the sound of a waterfall passing over a stone wall. Photos are inlaid on the concrete depicting the notable people and buildings that populated the area. We were sitting a relaxing when a traveling BBQ arrived! Yes, a man riding a full size black tricycle mounted a small drum-style bbq to the back of his bike, with a shelf for a cooler below. He was joined by a friend with a portable stereo mounted on his bicycle, and a few more friends came along to enjoy the food and music. It was really cool, a party-in-the-making on 3 wheels.

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We wandered a little further and stopped off at Spectacles, a funky little boutique on Grand River. Selling up-to-the-minute styles of T-shirts, hats, and accessories along with CD’s and books it’s a fun place to do a little shopping. Within walking distance you will find a few other shops and restaurants, along with the Harmonie Building. Built in 1895 the buff colored Harmonie Building is home to an art gallery on the first floor. Take a peek inside; the rich dark-colored wood and ornate plaster welcome you.The gallery rotates exhibits so there is always something new to see. Located about half-way between Greektown and the stadiums it’s a great area to explore.

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Roadtrip……Kalamazoo; Gilmore Car Museum, Henderson Castle B&B

14 Sep

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I don’t know about you, but every time I hear the name” Kalamazoo” the Glenn Miller song starts to play in my head; A,B,C,D,E,F,G,H,  I got a gal in Kalamazoo……There’s something catchy about that name, it has been used in songs, books, and slogans such as “From Timbuktu to Kalamazoo”.  We were looking for a short overnight trip Labor Day weekend and Kalamazoo is what came to mind.

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We pointed the car west, got on I-94 and  covered the miles quickly, there wasn’t time to take back roads both ways; sometimes you have to make sacrifices. Our first stop was the Gilmore Car Museum located in Hickory Corners MI. This place is astounding, and truly one of a kind. Here’s a brief history: Donald Gilmore receives a 1920 Pierce Arrow “project car” as a birthday present from his wife, he restored it with a group of friends, and soon his collection grew to 30 cars. He purchased 90 acres of farm land and several historic barns, which had to be dismantled plank by plank and moved to the site to store the vehicles. The collection eventually became a non-profit foundation and a public museum it opened July 31, 1966. Let me just assure you the Gilmore family is not short on cash; The number of autos and barns has grown substantially through the years, making it one of the top automobile museums in the country. In addition to the autos (200) displayed in eight barns, there is also a re-created 1930’s service station, a small town train station, an authentic Diner Car, and a double-decker bus, all for your enjoyment. The museum also owns one of North America’s largest displays of hood ornaments and name badges, and if you like vintage pedal cars, you’re in luck!

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We were fortunate in that there was a Cadillac La Salle meet going on when we arrived; we immediately set our focus on the gathering of cars, walking up and down the rows among giant tail fins and tons of chrome. Interiors are lush; leather seats and dashboards loaded with gadgets and trimmed in more chrome, it’s hard for me to imagine people drove these daily, the size is intimidating….parking spaces must have been bigger in those days….. Next we went to the barns; they are numbered so it makes it easy to keep track of what you have and haven’t seen, meticulously restored, they are beautiful inside. If you asked me what my favorite car is I couldn’t choose, if you asked what is the one thing you shouldn’t miss, I say don’t miss any of it! Automobiles were elaborate, if you spend the time to really study a Pierce Arrow, Franklin, Duesenberg, Packard or Cord, you recognize that each one was different, the design reflecting the time period, the craftsmanship outstanding, they were rolling sculpture.  Barn #5 has a fascinating collection of cars made in “Kalamazoo- The Other Motor City”, this town has a strong automotive heritage, in the same barn are the Brass & Nickel Cars which date back to 1931 and older, the Cars of the 1950’s also share this space and seem to be quite popular with visitors. Vehicles of the 30’s and 40’s are displayed along with Preston Tucker’s office (yes, the real thing) and the Tucker Historical Collection in barn 6, feast your eyes on an authentic Tucker, the single headlight sets it apart from all other vehicles. From the 1800’s to the 1970’s and from the luxurious to the muscle car you can see a little bit of everything at Gilmore.

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CLICK HERE TO VIEW MORE VINTAGE CARS

We had walked, smiled, ogled and photographed for hours, we needed to re-fuel, lucky for us the Blue Moon Diner car on the premises serves lunch from 11-4 daily.  An original 1941 Silk City Diner, this place is cool! Order at the counter, if there’s room I recommend sitting inside, if not, tables are plentiful on the outdoor shaded patio. The food is great; hot dogs, many people ordered the “Chicago”, sandwiches served with a bag of chips, typical diner fare, and of course homemade pie. They do a big frozen custard business too, everywhere you look people had a cone filled with the delicious stuff. We ordered a BLT; bacon was crisp and tender piled on white toast topped with juicy tomatoes, lettuce and a generous coating of mayo. In addition we had the salad special of the day, grilled chicken, crisp lettuce, fruit, nuts and a great homemade dressing, diet coke was served in the petite silver bottles and was icy cold. What fun!

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It was getting late in the day so it was time to check in to our Bed & Breakfast, we booked a room at the Henderson Castle in Kalamazoo. As of August 2011 the Inn has a new owner so it was our first stay since it had changed hands, it was a little rough around the edges, but we expect the new owner will whip it into shape quickly. The house is stunning; built in 1895 of Lake Superior Sandstone and brick this magnificent Queen Ann sits on top of a hill overlooking the city. The original owner, Frank Henderson was a wealthy and successful businessman, he built 25 room home at a cost of $72, 000.00, I’d say it was worth every penny. Francois greeted us at the door and showed us to our room (Tibet) on the second floor, climbing the wooden staircase I had forgotten how extravagant the place was. As the door swung open the brightly painted tin ceiling came into view; one of the previous owners had it removed from a building downtown that was set to be demolished and had it installed in the Tibet Room, then he hired students from nearby WMU to paint it, the last step was the installation of fiber optic lighting around the perimeter and ceiling medallion, it’s gorgeous. The bathroom is huge; the floor is covered in original ceramic tiles, the Tibet theme continues here too. After we settled in we headed back out for dinner.

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There is an area of downtown called the “Mall”, basically it’s several blocks of small shops and restaurants that is quite walkable and charming.  We came across a place called Central City Tap House that looked inviting; tables indoors and out with sliding glass doors to separate the spaces. Our indoor table facing the open doors was perfect, we had a pizza and an Asian salad that really hit the spot, a nice amount of food for a fair price. I had to save a little bit of room for our next visit: the Bell’s Brewery.  Bell’s has been around for a while now, and most Michiganders know it well; the Porter is my favorite. We parked on the street and sat indoors, the place was busy and the list of available varieties was long, but we managed to get both a beer and a table. I selected the Rye Porter and was glad I did, the perfect drinking temperature this beer had nice deep flavor and a smooth finish, it would go well with a meal too. We had a great day in Kzoo, and now it was time to get some sleep. Tomorrow always brings a new adventure.

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Scott Fountain Belle Isle, Hart Plaza, Jazz Festival

9 Sep

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Kris and I have been coming to the Scott Fountain on Belle Isle for as long as I can remember, and we are not alone! Through the years we have witnessed dozens of weddings, numerous family photographs, and countless visitors enjoy the splendor of the fountain. Designed by Cass Gilbert and sculpted out of Vermont White Marble by Herbert Adams there are over 109 water outlets. From the great outer bowl rises the central pedestal of intricately carved figures that upholds the top most basin. Take a good look, the detail is remarkable; You can find Neptune, dolphins, lions, turtles and sweet faced cherubs. The central spray jets water 125 ft into the air and is most impressive. It seems people are always drawn to water, so a fountain on an island is an even greater attraction. Belle Isle Park is the largest city island park in the country, it was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted who also designed Central Park in New York City.

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There is a bit of interesting history that goes along with this amazing tower of cascading of water.  James Scott was a wealthy bachelor who was known as a gambler, womanizer, and a loafer. Scott had inherited his father’s real estate fortune and it was said he was not to have done a days work in his entire life. He told off-color stories, gave big tips, dated beautiful women and played vindictive practical jokes. He was disrespected and disliked by most of the businessmen and city officials in Detroit at the time. In 1910 James Scott died, he left $500,000.00 to the City of Detroit with the stipulation they use it to build a fountain on Belle Isle and a life-sized statue of himself; people were outraged. After 15 years or arguments and debate, the fountain and statue were finally built in 1925 for all to enjoy.

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The fountain itself has changed a bit through the years too; the beautiful Pewabic Tile that graced the interior of great outer bowl was removed last year when repairs were made, sadly it was all destroyed and thrown away. There is a current fundraising effort in the works to raise the money to replace the tiles, Pewabic still has the original plans. The lower area of the fountain bordering the lake is not running this year, there are repairs to be made and little money to work with. It is still worth looking at, I love the giant clam shells, and remember fondly when water sprayed freely. I recently read that the 1973 drama “Scarecrow” had a famous scene between Gene Hackman and Al Pacino that was shot at the fountain, I will have to rent it and check it out! It seems all who married in Detroit back in the day came to Belle Isle to take pictures, it was the place you came for picnics and reunions, it was and still is a magical gathering place.

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 It was a scorching hot Saturday, the kind that drags you down, saps your energy and drives you inside to some air conditioned place. Well, unless the 32nd Annual Detroit Jazz Festival is going on! It’s hard to pass up the Labor Day Weekend event no matter what else is going on, billed as the largest FREE Jazz event in the world you will never see or hear anything like it. The urban setting is quintessential; the Detroit skyline in one direction, in the other, the sparkling blue Detroit River lapping against the Windsor shoreline. Hart Plaza plays host to the event and does a marvelous job. Hart Plaza is said to be the spot Detroit’s founder Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac first landed in 1701. It is home to two amphitheaters, statues and sculpture, the first international memorial to the underground railroad, and of course the Dodge Fountain. Designed by Isamu Noguchi in 1978 this 30 ft tall stainless steel fountain pays tribute to Horace E Dodge. The fountain has 300 water nozzles that spray down into an 8 ft tall walled circular black granite pool, most importantly on a hot day it provides overheated pedestrians a place to cool off. Wander from stage to stage, or sit on the grass under a shade tree; you can  hear everything from traditional, New Orleans style, or Modern Jazz, the entertainment goes on for four days straight. The festival has gotten so big it now spills down Woodward right into Campus Martius, I think I counted six by stages in all. It is an incredible mix of musicians and fans, food and drink, sights and sounds.

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New Center Park, Hot Club of Detroit, The Bronx Bar

6 Sep

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Detroit’s newest entertainment venue is New Center Park, located across from the fabulous Fisher Building on West Grand Blvd and Second Ave, this outdoor urban space is delightful! We went down for the Thursday Jazz & Blues; arriving about 10 minutes before the 6pm start time, street parking was plentiful, and there was no lack of wide open lawn seating. Orange folding chairs are available for your use, many bring their own or simply spread out a blanket. The amphitheater like park can easily accommodate hundreds on the gently sloping lawn. Tall trees provide needed shade while planters filled with flowers add color to the landscape, historic buildings make an eye catching backdrop for it all. Activity surrounds the park, cars drive up and down the boulevard, dogs are being walked by owners curious to see what the all the activity is about, nurses from nearby Henry Ford Hospital have a listen and a snack before heading home.

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Hot Club of Detroit was the evenings entertainment, they are incredible! Their music is pure pleasure for your ears, to watch them play a thrill for your eyes, the guitarists play with amazing speed. They had a female vocalist join them for this performance; she sang in french as her crystal clear voice got carried away in the gentle wind of the summer evening. It was one of those blistering hot days that transforms into a perfect night; cool grass beneath your feet, intoxicating music filling the air, time passes easily.

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Opposite the stage is a bar; enclosed on all sides by glass doors this paprika colored room offers bar and table seating, restrooms are found here too. The alfresco cafe menu is perfect for the venue; appetizers like chips and salsa, crudites and dip or hummus with pita wedges, also available are four sandwiches, salads and nachos, and of course a full bar. Food and beverage purchases are what support the facility and allow all the entertainment to be FREE, no coolers here. New Center Park hosts a variety of events such as the Wednesday Lunch Series, Wednesday Night At The Movies, and Thursday Jazz and Blues, check the website for details.

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The Bronx Bar is a Midtown mainstay, located on Second Ave, word is they have great burgers. It was still kind of early for the bar crowd to file in, so we thought we’d drop in. Walking in your  immediate observation will be that it is dark, very dark, but once your eyes adjust you notice the personality of the place; vintage ceramic tile covers the walls, the wood is stained dark and varnished in high gloss. Posters of Jean Harlow and Raquel Welch compete for every males attention. Tiffany lamps hang from the ceiling providing only dim light. The side by side jukeboxes are legendary for the wide variety of music selections.  Order at the bar and then have a seat, wanting to soak up as much of the pleasant evening as possible we sat outside. Before long our food arrived; a club sandwich with turkey shaved thin and piled high, crispy bacon, mayo, lettuce and tomato served on a delicious bun. The blackbean burger was out of this world; a slice of pepperjack cheese to give it a kick, next a stack of spinach then topped off with sliced ripe tomato, a wonderful mix of flavors. Unable to decide between fries and onion rings we got a half order of each; the fries were fresh cut, crispy and delicious, the onion rings were the small rings fried to a perfect crunch. Definitely a step above your average “bar food”, many items are homemade. Bronx is within walking distance to Wayne State and seems to be a popular hang out for students and hipsters alike. Most weekends you can’t even get in the place, if it seems like someplace you’d like to try I’d say the earlier the better. Prices are fair, portions are good and the bartender was helpful and friendly. 

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Selfridge Air Museum, New Baltimore Farmers Market, Bad Brad’s BBQ

3 Sep

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The tiny community of New Baltimore MI, located on beautiful Anchor Bay, is about 45 minutes north east of downtown Detroit. There have been subtle changes over the last few years making it more appealing to tourists and day-trippers. We take the scenic route whenever possible, in this case that would be Jefferson to M 29, then turn onto Washington Street into town; historic buildings line the two-lane stretch, American flags hoisted high on poles wave in the lake breeze, straight ahead lies a playground, beach, and tree studded park. Go right down to the water; walk to the end of the dock and gaze out over the blue water of Lake St Clair, fisherman cast their lines in hopes of a big catch, swans paddle gracefully by all the activity.

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  From now until October 23 you can visit the Farmers Market on Sundays from 8am-1pm. I can’t get through a summer without homegrown vegetables, so we came to get our fix! There’s nothing like a farmers market to show off the bounty of a Michigan summer; piles of zucchini that are at least a foot long, pickles overflowing from round wicker baskets, brightly colored peppers, corn, tomatoes, purple onions and peaches! Baked goods have their place here as well; breads, pies, cookies and granola all entice you to buy. How about a hot dog, or an ear of roasted corn, come hungry! There are perennials and crafts too, one booth even sells cookies for dogs.

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After shopping at the market take some time to visit some of the local businesses; Washington Street Wine House is one of the newer businesses and a great addition to the area; quite charming in a historic building complete with a tin ceiling and hardwood floor, they offer tastings, bottles, and a variety of wine accoutrements tastefully laid out in the space. The staff is knowledgeable and friendly, I’ll bet you leave with at least one bottle. Stahl’s Bakery is a short walk up the street to the corner of Washington and Main; the smell of fresh baked bread and cookies will lure you in, tasting the samples on the counter will convince you to buy. Famous for their Belly Button Cookie, Stahl’s has been hand baking for 78 years. We were lucky enough to meet the cookie baker on our visit, she was kind enough to take us back where the real work is done; a giant mixer stands on the floor as tall as me, probably older than me too, stacks of huge metal bowls wait to be filled with butter, flour and sugar, an over-sized oven remained warm from the previous days use, a wide butcher block table sat empty this Sunday, worn and warped from years of use. Here is my advice for you: Get the Belly Button cookie!! Thin and crisp, the color of dark brown sugar, its buttery taste and chocolate chips will win you over. 

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Just a short drive away on M 29 is Bad Brads BBQ, our lunch destination. The weather was perfect for outdoor dining so we had a seat on the patio. This is not your ordinary patio; the sizable space offers a variety of seating from picnic tables, high top tables and stools to square tables that seat 4 comfortably, the one thing they all have in common are the thick wood plank tabletops, quite fitting. A brick and stone fireplace sits at the furthermost edge of the patio, a pond with a trickling waterfall is centrally located, there’s even a bar out here. The menu is just what you’d expect; an array of meats smoked in house and made from scratch accompaniments, house made sauces in squeeze bottles rest on each table. We tried a little of everything; The BBQ chicken salad is awesome, smoked chicken atop crunchy greens served with their own BBQ ranch dressing, spicy good! We had a sandwich with their pork; smoked to perfection it was tender and juicy, served with their homemade spicy corn chips it’s a great combination. I liked the spicy sauce best, Kris’s favorite was the sweet. When you eat at a barbecue place you have to try the Mac and Cheese; served in a small pie tin the top was browned and a little crunchy, noodles firm, coated in a mild and creamy white sauce. Servers were friendly and attentive, our glasses were never empty. Be sure and check out the cool artwork by Detroit’s own Jerome Ferretti inside.

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We left on southbound Jefferson and took it all the way to the Selfridge Air Museum and Air Park, this place is cool. I know zero about planes and yet I find this place fascinating. Activated as a military installation July 1, 1917, all branches of the military, active and reserve units alike, are represented on the Base. Selfridge trained pilots, aero mechanics, aerial photographers and gunnery personnel for World War I. Many famous names in aviation history are associated with Selfridge, Charles Lindbergh completed his training here.  The museum is open to the public April through October on weekends from 12:00 – 4:30 pm, adult admission is $4. When you arrive at the Selfridge ANGB gate you will stop at a booth where they will ask you to park you car and then come inside where they will look at your drivers license, car registration and proof of insurance, and issue you a pass, then simply drive over to the museum parking lot and go inside.

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The museum is laid out in chronological order starting with the Wright Brothers. The base was named after aviation pioneer Lt Thomas E. Selfridge; the first military officer to pilot an engine-driven aircraft, and while flying with Orville Wright, the first to meet his death in powered flight. There are great historic photographs throughout the venue, glass cases are filled with uniforms and memorabilia, full size engines are on display along with coordinating diagrams. Climb into the cockpit of a real F-16; It had to be  a tight fit for the pilot, you will be astonished by the number of buttons, switches and levers that surround you. As you proceed through time you will see an old military Jeep, rockets and missiles, taking you all the way to the space age and up to the present. When you are finished indoors, exit through the door to the Air Park.

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Dozens of vintage planes sit at rest in the park, signs tell the significance of each. The day we were there the Lockheed C-130 Hercules was open to visitors; the interior is immense, a full size Jeep is stored inside and is barely noticeable. The cargo bay door is fully opened and will surprise you with its gigantic gateway. Go up front to the cockpit and have a seat, wow! Volunteers are available to answer your questions, and more importantly (to me, anyways), to tell you the stories of the aircraft. I am truly captivated by such things. The array of planes is vast,all the way from World War I to present day, it’s wonderful to be able to get up close to see them. The Lockheed P-3 Orion aircraft was also open, take advantage of the opportunity and go inside. If you like planes you could easily spend a couple of hours here. The museum preserves the heritage and tradition of the Air National Guard in Michigan and the military units past and present headquartered at Selfridge ANG Base. Come see for yourself. 

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Southwest Detroit Murals, El Barzon, The Alley Project, MexicanTown Bakery

29 Aug

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Friday was the perfect Summer day; Bright sunshine, blue sky, and a light breeze; the kind of day that compels you to be outdoors. Southwest Detroit is a  wonderful area to explore, it has a character all its own; lively and vibrant, bright colors and appealing artwork abound, even in the most unsuspecting places. We started our adventure at the recently opened Bagley Pedestrian Bridge, part of the $230 million dollar Ambassador Bridge  Gateway Project, the project itself provides bridge travelers a stunning introduction to Detroit. The pedestrian bridge is an asymmetrical 155 foot high pylon cable-stayed design, it is actually the first cable-stayed bridge in Michigan. From it you have panoramic views of downtown, St. Anne Church (the second oldest Catholic parish in the U.S.), and of course the Ambassador Bridge. The east side of the bridge features a towering metal and concrete sculpture; a dynamic tile mural highlights the crossing showcasing the Detroit River, Detroit landmarks and the local flavor of the neighborhood. The bridge unites the area after many years of separation with the building of I-75, now locals and visitors alike can enjoy the district on foot.

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From there we wandered around Mexican town east of the bridge in search of the murals that decorate Southwest Detroit; a drive down Bagley and Vernor reveal fantastic ironwork and art. Cross over I-75  further into Southwest; the area is dense with restaurants, shops, and local businesses. Large murals occupy the entire side of buildings; a bright purple wall is the background for a portrait of a woman and her guitar, children’s imagination’s are illustrated on one wall, a giant rendering of a farmer in his cornfield reaches out to passerby’s on another, public benches are decked out with mosaic tile decor and embellish the area.

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After a combination of walking and driving to take pictures, we were ready for lunch. We strayed from the beaten path a little bit to Junction and Michigan where El Barzon is located. When you walk through the door you will notice this is not your typical Mexican restaurant; a bit more upscale with white tablecloths, glass stemware and a rose on each table. When you are seated you are offered a wine list and menu, open the menu to the unexpected; one side is traditional Mexican dishes, the other side Italian. Servers are very attentive, our water glasses were filled quickly and the chips and homemade salsa arrived shortly thereafter. Immediately we dug into the chips eager to try both the red and the green salsa; red being spicy, this is a smooth sauce bursting with flavor and just the right amount of kick to it. The green on the other hand was very light and fresh tasting, it had a creaminess to it that I would bet came from avocado, both are delicious! We didn’t stray from the Mexican page and ordered a Tamale; over-sized, moist and flavorful. The enchiladas; filled with cheese and topped off nicely with a green sauce, this is not your usual melted white cheese that oozes out when you cut into the enchilada, but more of a mild crumble type, oh it was so good. We also tried the Pozole, served in a large bowl, it is a spicy broth base with pozole (hominy), vegetables, tostadas, and chicharrones, and we chose the chicken; break up the tostadas and use them like crackers in soup, then top with the vegetables, a little radish, some avocado, so tasty. We have to come back and try the Italian one day soon.

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Refreshed and refueled we were ready for more exploration, this time through the neighborhoods.We had previously noticed a number of residential fences painted with delightful murals designed to beautify the area. This time we came across a building with an impressive graffiti-type mural; the owner explained to us that students from Wayne state were going around to local businesses and offering their services for free, how cool is that? That’s when we stumbled onto The Alley Project (TAP). This walking gallery is awesome; spanning one full city block the project takes you through the alley behind Avis past a multitude of garages serving as canvasses for high quality multi-color murals, Wow! On July 4th of this year The Alley Project opened a common art space comprised of two empty neighborhood lots for neighbors and artists; providing places to sit and gaze at the billboard style displays, there are also raised flower beds and a gravel pathway that takes you from the street to the alley. This is definitely worth checking out!  

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CLICK HERE FOR URBAN ART SLIDESHOW

We parked on Vernor in front of Cafe Con Leche and walked the short distance to the MexicanTown Bakery.  We love this place; the scent of fresh baked goods perfumes the air, tall metal racks with a dozen shelves hold the most recent items to come from the ovens, the wall to the right is cabinet after cabinet filled with sweet delights. Further back are rows of Mexican groceries and canned goods, everything you need to cook and authentic meal. Each time we come I like to try something new, I haven’t found anything yet I didn’t like; cookies, pastries, rolls and cakes they are all delectable. Kris really likes their chocolate cookie covered with tons of mini chocolate chips. Me,I don’t know what it’s called, but I’ll tell you my new favorite; when you look at it you will see that it is covered in granulated sugar, I mean it looks like it was rolled in sugar and then rolled again, really. There are two halves and they are held together with a raspberry filling that has squeezed out the sides. Take a bite to reveal the yellow colored dough, it is more crisp and crumbly than soft and chewy, the cookie part reminds me in the slightest way of a chinese almond cookie in color and flavor. The combination of flavors and textures is just right and went perfectly with my iced americano from the coffee shop.

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