Roadtrip……Kalamazoo; Gilmore Car Museum, Henderson Castle B&B

14 Sep

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I don’t know about you, but every time I hear the name” Kalamazoo” the Glenn Miller song starts to play in my head; A,B,C,D,E,F,G,H,  I got a gal in Kalamazoo……There’s something catchy about that name, it has been used in songs, books, and slogans such as “From Timbuktu to Kalamazoo”.  We were looking for a short overnight trip Labor Day weekend and Kalamazoo is what came to mind.

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We pointed the car west, got on I-94 and  covered the miles quickly, there wasn’t time to take back roads both ways; sometimes you have to make sacrifices. Our first stop was the Gilmore Car Museum located in Hickory Corners MI. This place is astounding, and truly one of a kind. Here’s a brief history: Donald Gilmore receives a 1920 Pierce Arrow “project car” as a birthday present from his wife, he restored it with a group of friends, and soon his collection grew to 30 cars. He purchased 90 acres of farm land and several historic barns, which had to be dismantled plank by plank and moved to the site to store the vehicles. The collection eventually became a non-profit foundation and a public museum it opened July 31, 1966. Let me just assure you the Gilmore family is not short on cash; The number of autos and barns has grown substantially through the years, making it one of the top automobile museums in the country. In addition to the autos (200) displayed in eight barns, there is also a re-created 1930’s service station, a small town train station, an authentic Diner Car, and a double-decker bus, all for your enjoyment. The museum also owns one of North America’s largest displays of hood ornaments and name badges, and if you like vintage pedal cars, you’re in luck!

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We were fortunate in that there was a Cadillac La Salle meet going on when we arrived; we immediately set our focus on the gathering of cars, walking up and down the rows among giant tail fins and tons of chrome. Interiors are lush; leather seats and dashboards loaded with gadgets and trimmed in more chrome, it’s hard for me to imagine people drove these daily, the size is intimidating….parking spaces must have been bigger in those days….. Next we went to the barns; they are numbered so it makes it easy to keep track of what you have and haven’t seen, meticulously restored, they are beautiful inside. If you asked me what my favorite car is I couldn’t choose, if you asked what is the one thing you shouldn’t miss, I say don’t miss any of it! Automobiles were elaborate, if you spend the time to really study a Pierce Arrow, Franklin, Duesenberg, Packard or Cord, you recognize that each one was different, the design reflecting the time period, the craftsmanship outstanding, they were rolling sculpture.  Barn #5 has a fascinating collection of cars made in “Kalamazoo- The Other Motor City”, this town has a strong automotive heritage, in the same barn are the Brass & Nickel Cars which date back to 1931 and older, the Cars of the 1950’s also share this space and seem to be quite popular with visitors. Vehicles of the 30’s and 40’s are displayed along with Preston Tucker’s office (yes, the real thing) and the Tucker Historical Collection in barn 6, feast your eyes on an authentic Tucker, the single headlight sets it apart from all other vehicles. From the 1800’s to the 1970’s and from the luxurious to the muscle car you can see a little bit of everything at Gilmore.

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CLICK HERE TO VIEW MORE VINTAGE CARS

We had walked, smiled, ogled and photographed for hours, we needed to re-fuel, lucky for us the Blue Moon Diner car on the premises serves lunch from 11-4 daily.  An original 1941 Silk City Diner, this place is cool! Order at the counter, if there’s room I recommend sitting inside, if not, tables are plentiful on the outdoor shaded patio. The food is great; hot dogs, many people ordered the “Chicago”, sandwiches served with a bag of chips, typical diner fare, and of course homemade pie. They do a big frozen custard business too, everywhere you look people had a cone filled with the delicious stuff. We ordered a BLT; bacon was crisp and tender piled on white toast topped with juicy tomatoes, lettuce and a generous coating of mayo. In addition we had the salad special of the day, grilled chicken, crisp lettuce, fruit, nuts and a great homemade dressing, diet coke was served in the petite silver bottles and was icy cold. What fun!

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It was getting late in the day so it was time to check in to our Bed & Breakfast, we booked a room at the Henderson Castle in Kalamazoo. As of August 2011 the Inn has a new owner so it was our first stay since it had changed hands, it was a little rough around the edges, but we expect the new owner will whip it into shape quickly. The house is stunning; built in 1895 of Lake Superior Sandstone and brick this magnificent Queen Ann sits on top of a hill overlooking the city. The original owner, Frank Henderson was a wealthy and successful businessman, he built 25 room home at a cost of $72, 000.00, I’d say it was worth every penny. Francois greeted us at the door and showed us to our room (Tibet) on the second floor, climbing the wooden staircase I had forgotten how extravagant the place was. As the door swung open the brightly painted tin ceiling came into view; one of the previous owners had it removed from a building downtown that was set to be demolished and had it installed in the Tibet Room, then he hired students from nearby WMU to paint it, the last step was the installation of fiber optic lighting around the perimeter and ceiling medallion, it’s gorgeous. The bathroom is huge; the floor is covered in original ceramic tiles, the Tibet theme continues here too. After we settled in we headed back out for dinner.

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There is an area of downtown called the “Mall”, basically it’s several blocks of small shops and restaurants that is quite walkable and charming.  We came across a place called Central City Tap House that looked inviting; tables indoors and out with sliding glass doors to separate the spaces. Our indoor table facing the open doors was perfect, we had a pizza and an Asian salad that really hit the spot, a nice amount of food for a fair price. I had to save a little bit of room for our next visit: the Bell’s Brewery.  Bell’s has been around for a while now, and most Michiganders know it well; the Porter is my favorite. We parked on the street and sat indoors, the place was busy and the list of available varieties was long, but we managed to get both a beer and a table. I selected the Rye Porter and was glad I did, the perfect drinking temperature this beer had nice deep flavor and a smooth finish, it would go well with a meal too. We had a great day in Kzoo, and now it was time to get some sleep. Tomorrow always brings a new adventure.

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Scott Fountain Belle Isle, Hart Plaza, Jazz Festival

9 Sep

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Kris and I have been coming to the Scott Fountain on Belle Isle for as long as I can remember, and we are not alone! Through the years we have witnessed dozens of weddings, numerous family photographs, and countless visitors enjoy the splendor of the fountain. Designed by Cass Gilbert and sculpted out of Vermont White Marble by Herbert Adams there are over 109 water outlets. From the great outer bowl rises the central pedestal of intricately carved figures that upholds the top most basin. Take a good look, the detail is remarkable; You can find Neptune, dolphins, lions, turtles and sweet faced cherubs. The central spray jets water 125 ft into the air and is most impressive. It seems people are always drawn to water, so a fountain on an island is an even greater attraction. Belle Isle Park is the largest city island park in the country, it was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted who also designed Central Park in New York City.

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There is a bit of interesting history that goes along with this amazing tower of cascading of water.  James Scott was a wealthy bachelor who was known as a gambler, womanizer, and a loafer. Scott had inherited his father’s real estate fortune and it was said he was not to have done a days work in his entire life. He told off-color stories, gave big tips, dated beautiful women and played vindictive practical jokes. He was disrespected and disliked by most of the businessmen and city officials in Detroit at the time. In 1910 James Scott died, he left $500,000.00 to the City of Detroit with the stipulation they use it to build a fountain on Belle Isle and a life-sized statue of himself; people were outraged. After 15 years or arguments and debate, the fountain and statue were finally built in 1925 for all to enjoy.

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The fountain itself has changed a bit through the years too; the beautiful Pewabic Tile that graced the interior of great outer bowl was removed last year when repairs were made, sadly it was all destroyed and thrown away. There is a current fundraising effort in the works to raise the money to replace the tiles, Pewabic still has the original plans. The lower area of the fountain bordering the lake is not running this year, there are repairs to be made and little money to work with. It is still worth looking at, I love the giant clam shells, and remember fondly when water sprayed freely. I recently read that the 1973 drama “Scarecrow” had a famous scene between Gene Hackman and Al Pacino that was shot at the fountain, I will have to rent it and check it out! It seems all who married in Detroit back in the day came to Belle Isle to take pictures, it was the place you came for picnics and reunions, it was and still is a magical gathering place.

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 It was a scorching hot Saturday, the kind that drags you down, saps your energy and drives you inside to some air conditioned place. Well, unless the 32nd Annual Detroit Jazz Festival is going on! It’s hard to pass up the Labor Day Weekend event no matter what else is going on, billed as the largest FREE Jazz event in the world you will never see or hear anything like it. The urban setting is quintessential; the Detroit skyline in one direction, in the other, the sparkling blue Detroit River lapping against the Windsor shoreline. Hart Plaza plays host to the event and does a marvelous job. Hart Plaza is said to be the spot Detroit’s founder Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac first landed in 1701. It is home to two amphitheaters, statues and sculpture, the first international memorial to the underground railroad, and of course the Dodge Fountain. Designed by Isamu Noguchi in 1978 this 30 ft tall stainless steel fountain pays tribute to Horace E Dodge. The fountain has 300 water nozzles that spray down into an 8 ft tall walled circular black granite pool, most importantly on a hot day it provides overheated pedestrians a place to cool off. Wander from stage to stage, or sit on the grass under a shade tree; you can  hear everything from traditional, New Orleans style, or Modern Jazz, the entertainment goes on for four days straight. The festival has gotten so big it now spills down Woodward right into Campus Martius, I think I counted six by stages in all. It is an incredible mix of musicians and fans, food and drink, sights and sounds.

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New Center Park, Hot Club of Detroit, The Bronx Bar

6 Sep

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Detroit’s newest entertainment venue is New Center Park, located across from the fabulous Fisher Building on West Grand Blvd and Second Ave, this outdoor urban space is delightful! We went down for the Thursday Jazz & Blues; arriving about 10 minutes before the 6pm start time, street parking was plentiful, and there was no lack of wide open lawn seating. Orange folding chairs are available for your use, many bring their own or simply spread out a blanket. The amphitheater like park can easily accommodate hundreds on the gently sloping lawn. Tall trees provide needed shade while planters filled with flowers add color to the landscape, historic buildings make an eye catching backdrop for it all. Activity surrounds the park, cars drive up and down the boulevard, dogs are being walked by owners curious to see what the all the activity is about, nurses from nearby Henry Ford Hospital have a listen and a snack before heading home.

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Hot Club of Detroit was the evenings entertainment, they are incredible! Their music is pure pleasure for your ears, to watch them play a thrill for your eyes, the guitarists play with amazing speed. They had a female vocalist join them for this performance; she sang in french as her crystal clear voice got carried away in the gentle wind of the summer evening. It was one of those blistering hot days that transforms into a perfect night; cool grass beneath your feet, intoxicating music filling the air, time passes easily.

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Opposite the stage is a bar; enclosed on all sides by glass doors this paprika colored room offers bar and table seating, restrooms are found here too. The alfresco cafe menu is perfect for the venue; appetizers like chips and salsa, crudites and dip or hummus with pita wedges, also available are four sandwiches, salads and nachos, and of course a full bar. Food and beverage purchases are what support the facility and allow all the entertainment to be FREE, no coolers here. New Center Park hosts a variety of events such as the Wednesday Lunch Series, Wednesday Night At The Movies, and Thursday Jazz and Blues, check the website for details.

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The Bronx Bar is a Midtown mainstay, located on Second Ave, word is they have great burgers. It was still kind of early for the bar crowd to file in, so we thought we’d drop in. Walking in your  immediate observation will be that it is dark, very dark, but once your eyes adjust you notice the personality of the place; vintage ceramic tile covers the walls, the wood is stained dark and varnished in high gloss. Posters of Jean Harlow and Raquel Welch compete for every males attention. Tiffany lamps hang from the ceiling providing only dim light. The side by side jukeboxes are legendary for the wide variety of music selections.  Order at the bar and then have a seat, wanting to soak up as much of the pleasant evening as possible we sat outside. Before long our food arrived; a club sandwich with turkey shaved thin and piled high, crispy bacon, mayo, lettuce and tomato served on a delicious bun. The blackbean burger was out of this world; a slice of pepperjack cheese to give it a kick, next a stack of spinach then topped off with sliced ripe tomato, a wonderful mix of flavors. Unable to decide between fries and onion rings we got a half order of each; the fries were fresh cut, crispy and delicious, the onion rings were the small rings fried to a perfect crunch. Definitely a step above your average “bar food”, many items are homemade. Bronx is within walking distance to Wayne State and seems to be a popular hang out for students and hipsters alike. Most weekends you can’t even get in the place, if it seems like someplace you’d like to try I’d say the earlier the better. Prices are fair, portions are good and the bartender was helpful and friendly. 

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Selfridge Air Museum, New Baltimore Farmers Market, Bad Brad’s BBQ

3 Sep

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The tiny community of New Baltimore MI, located on beautiful Anchor Bay, is about 45 minutes north east of downtown Detroit. There have been subtle changes over the last few years making it more appealing to tourists and day-trippers. We take the scenic route whenever possible, in this case that would be Jefferson to M 29, then turn onto Washington Street into town; historic buildings line the two-lane stretch, American flags hoisted high on poles wave in the lake breeze, straight ahead lies a playground, beach, and tree studded park. Go right down to the water; walk to the end of the dock and gaze out over the blue water of Lake St Clair, fisherman cast their lines in hopes of a big catch, swans paddle gracefully by all the activity.

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  From now until October 23 you can visit the Farmers Market on Sundays from 8am-1pm. I can’t get through a summer without homegrown vegetables, so we came to get our fix! There’s nothing like a farmers market to show off the bounty of a Michigan summer; piles of zucchini that are at least a foot long, pickles overflowing from round wicker baskets, brightly colored peppers, corn, tomatoes, purple onions and peaches! Baked goods have their place here as well; breads, pies, cookies and granola all entice you to buy. How about a hot dog, or an ear of roasted corn, come hungry! There are perennials and crafts too, one booth even sells cookies for dogs.

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After shopping at the market take some time to visit some of the local businesses; Washington Street Wine House is one of the newer businesses and a great addition to the area; quite charming in a historic building complete with a tin ceiling and hardwood floor, they offer tastings, bottles, and a variety of wine accoutrements tastefully laid out in the space. The staff is knowledgeable and friendly, I’ll bet you leave with at least one bottle. Stahl’s Bakery is a short walk up the street to the corner of Washington and Main; the smell of fresh baked bread and cookies will lure you in, tasting the samples on the counter will convince you to buy. Famous for their Belly Button Cookie, Stahl’s has been hand baking for 78 years. We were lucky enough to meet the cookie baker on our visit, she was kind enough to take us back where the real work is done; a giant mixer stands on the floor as tall as me, probably older than me too, stacks of huge metal bowls wait to be filled with butter, flour and sugar, an over-sized oven remained warm from the previous days use, a wide butcher block table sat empty this Sunday, worn and warped from years of use. Here is my advice for you: Get the Belly Button cookie!! Thin and crisp, the color of dark brown sugar, its buttery taste and chocolate chips will win you over. 

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Just a short drive away on M 29 is Bad Brads BBQ, our lunch destination. The weather was perfect for outdoor dining so we had a seat on the patio. This is not your ordinary patio; the sizable space offers a variety of seating from picnic tables, high top tables and stools to square tables that seat 4 comfortably, the one thing they all have in common are the thick wood plank tabletops, quite fitting. A brick and stone fireplace sits at the furthermost edge of the patio, a pond with a trickling waterfall is centrally located, there’s even a bar out here. The menu is just what you’d expect; an array of meats smoked in house and made from scratch accompaniments, house made sauces in squeeze bottles rest on each table. We tried a little of everything; The BBQ chicken salad is awesome, smoked chicken atop crunchy greens served with their own BBQ ranch dressing, spicy good! We had a sandwich with their pork; smoked to perfection it was tender and juicy, served with their homemade spicy corn chips it’s a great combination. I liked the spicy sauce best, Kris’s favorite was the sweet. When you eat at a barbecue place you have to try the Mac and Cheese; served in a small pie tin the top was browned and a little crunchy, noodles firm, coated in a mild and creamy white sauce. Servers were friendly and attentive, our glasses were never empty. Be sure and check out the cool artwork by Detroit’s own Jerome Ferretti inside.

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We left on southbound Jefferson and took it all the way to the Selfridge Air Museum and Air Park, this place is cool. I know zero about planes and yet I find this place fascinating. Activated as a military installation July 1, 1917, all branches of the military, active and reserve units alike, are represented on the Base. Selfridge trained pilots, aero mechanics, aerial photographers and gunnery personnel for World War I. Many famous names in aviation history are associated with Selfridge, Charles Lindbergh completed his training here.  The museum is open to the public April through October on weekends from 12:00 – 4:30 pm, adult admission is $4. When you arrive at the Selfridge ANGB gate you will stop at a booth where they will ask you to park you car and then come inside where they will look at your drivers license, car registration and proof of insurance, and issue you a pass, then simply drive over to the museum parking lot and go inside.

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The museum is laid out in chronological order starting with the Wright Brothers. The base was named after aviation pioneer Lt Thomas E. Selfridge; the first military officer to pilot an engine-driven aircraft, and while flying with Orville Wright, the first to meet his death in powered flight. There are great historic photographs throughout the venue, glass cases are filled with uniforms and memorabilia, full size engines are on display along with coordinating diagrams. Climb into the cockpit of a real F-16; It had to be  a tight fit for the pilot, you will be astonished by the number of buttons, switches and levers that surround you. As you proceed through time you will see an old military Jeep, rockets and missiles, taking you all the way to the space age and up to the present. When you are finished indoors, exit through the door to the Air Park.

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Dozens of vintage planes sit at rest in the park, signs tell the significance of each. The day we were there the Lockheed C-130 Hercules was open to visitors; the interior is immense, a full size Jeep is stored inside and is barely noticeable. The cargo bay door is fully opened and will surprise you with its gigantic gateway. Go up front to the cockpit and have a seat, wow! Volunteers are available to answer your questions, and more importantly (to me, anyways), to tell you the stories of the aircraft. I am truly captivated by such things. The array of planes is vast,all the way from World War I to present day, it’s wonderful to be able to get up close to see them. The Lockheed P-3 Orion aircraft was also open, take advantage of the opportunity and go inside. If you like planes you could easily spend a couple of hours here. The museum preserves the heritage and tradition of the Air National Guard in Michigan and the military units past and present headquartered at Selfridge ANG Base. Come see for yourself. 

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Southwest Detroit Murals, El Barzon, The Alley Project, MexicanTown Bakery

29 Aug

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Friday was the perfect Summer day; Bright sunshine, blue sky, and a light breeze; the kind of day that compels you to be outdoors. Southwest Detroit is a  wonderful area to explore, it has a character all its own; lively and vibrant, bright colors and appealing artwork abound, even in the most unsuspecting places. We started our adventure at the recently opened Bagley Pedestrian Bridge, part of the $230 million dollar Ambassador Bridge  Gateway Project, the project itself provides bridge travelers a stunning introduction to Detroit. The pedestrian bridge is an asymmetrical 155 foot high pylon cable-stayed design, it is actually the first cable-stayed bridge in Michigan. From it you have panoramic views of downtown, St. Anne Church (the second oldest Catholic parish in the U.S.), and of course the Ambassador Bridge. The east side of the bridge features a towering metal and concrete sculpture; a dynamic tile mural highlights the crossing showcasing the Detroit River, Detroit landmarks and the local flavor of the neighborhood. The bridge unites the area after many years of separation with the building of I-75, now locals and visitors alike can enjoy the district on foot.

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From there we wandered around Mexican town east of the bridge in search of the murals that decorate Southwest Detroit; a drive down Bagley and Vernor reveal fantastic ironwork and art. Cross over I-75  further into Southwest; the area is dense with restaurants, shops, and local businesses. Large murals occupy the entire side of buildings; a bright purple wall is the background for a portrait of a woman and her guitar, children’s imagination’s are illustrated on one wall, a giant rendering of a farmer in his cornfield reaches out to passerby’s on another, public benches are decked out with mosaic tile decor and embellish the area.

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After a combination of walking and driving to take pictures, we were ready for lunch. We strayed from the beaten path a little bit to Junction and Michigan where El Barzon is located. When you walk through the door you will notice this is not your typical Mexican restaurant; a bit more upscale with white tablecloths, glass stemware and a rose on each table. When you are seated you are offered a wine list and menu, open the menu to the unexpected; one side is traditional Mexican dishes, the other side Italian. Servers are very attentive, our water glasses were filled quickly and the chips and homemade salsa arrived shortly thereafter. Immediately we dug into the chips eager to try both the red and the green salsa; red being spicy, this is a smooth sauce bursting with flavor and just the right amount of kick to it. The green on the other hand was very light and fresh tasting, it had a creaminess to it that I would bet came from avocado, both are delicious! We didn’t stray from the Mexican page and ordered a Tamale; over-sized, moist and flavorful. The enchiladas; filled with cheese and topped off nicely with a green sauce, this is not your usual melted white cheese that oozes out when you cut into the enchilada, but more of a mild crumble type, oh it was so good. We also tried the Pozole, served in a large bowl, it is a spicy broth base with pozole (hominy), vegetables, tostadas, and chicharrones, and we chose the chicken; break up the tostadas and use them like crackers in soup, then top with the vegetables, a little radish, some avocado, so tasty. We have to come back and try the Italian one day soon.

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Refreshed and refueled we were ready for more exploration, this time through the neighborhoods.We had previously noticed a number of residential fences painted with delightful murals designed to beautify the area. This time we came across a building with an impressive graffiti-type mural; the owner explained to us that students from Wayne state were going around to local businesses and offering their services for free, how cool is that? That’s when we stumbled onto The Alley Project (TAP). This walking gallery is awesome; spanning one full city block the project takes you through the alley behind Avis past a multitude of garages serving as canvasses for high quality multi-color murals, Wow! On July 4th of this year The Alley Project opened a common art space comprised of two empty neighborhood lots for neighbors and artists; providing places to sit and gaze at the billboard style displays, there are also raised flower beds and a gravel pathway that takes you from the street to the alley. This is definitely worth checking out!  

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CLICK HERE FOR URBAN ART SLIDESHOW

We parked on Vernor in front of Cafe Con Leche and walked the short distance to the MexicanTown Bakery.  We love this place; the scent of fresh baked goods perfumes the air, tall metal racks with a dozen shelves hold the most recent items to come from the ovens, the wall to the right is cabinet after cabinet filled with sweet delights. Further back are rows of Mexican groceries and canned goods, everything you need to cook and authentic meal. Each time we come I like to try something new, I haven’t found anything yet I didn’t like; cookies, pastries, rolls and cakes they are all delectable. Kris really likes their chocolate cookie covered with tons of mini chocolate chips. Me,I don’t know what it’s called, but I’ll tell you my new favorite; when you look at it you will see that it is covered in granulated sugar, I mean it looks like it was rolled in sugar and then rolled again, really. There are two halves and they are held together with a raspberry filling that has squeezed out the sides. Take a bite to reveal the yellow colored dough, it is more crisp and crumbly than soft and chewy, the cookie part reminds me in the slightest way of a chinese almond cookie in color and flavor. The combination of flavors and textures is just right and went perfectly with my iced americano from the coffee shop.

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DETROIT; Lawrence Fisher House, Aladdin Sweets & Cafe, Lafayette Greens

25 Aug

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There is no shortage of resplendent stately homes in the city of Detroit; the Lawrence Fisher House certainly qualifies for that rank. It has been quite some time since our last visit, so we were anxious to see it again. Let me tell you a little bit about the history first; Lawrence Fisher was one of seven Fisher brothers who formed the company Fisher Body. In 1910 Fisher Body became the supplier of all closed bodies for Cadillac and Buick, by 1914 they became the worlds largest manufacturer of auto bodies. The story goes that in 1926 the brothers sold the company to General Motors for hundreds of millions of dollars, at a time when there was no personal income tax. Not bad eh?

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Lawrence Fisher was characterized as flamboyant, you can definitely see his personality reflected in his home. Designed in 1927 by famed architect C Howard Crane (think Fox Theater), no expense was spared; the exterior resembles a Mediterranean style villa, the interior: anything goes! As you enter the home you find yourself in a small foyer type space, all at once a multitude of visuals vie for your attention; a Pewabic Pottery fountain with striking red and blue tiles built into the wall, large floor tiles trimmed in real gold, light beams through the triple stained glass windows across from the top of the marble stairway. Opposing walls feature hand painted frescoes of the Italian countryside tucked into columned archways, a sizable striking lantern trimmed in wrought iron and detailed in gold hangs from a chain to light the area. Climb the stairs to the second floor to get a closer look at the carved, hand painted wooden ceiling, it is spectacular!

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At 22,000 sq. ft. and only two bedrooms, this house was built for entertaining; they say Fisher was a bit of a playboy, dating Hollywood starlets such as Jean Harlow, his parties were legendary. The once opulent 2-story ballroom has a balcony where the band would play for days on end as champagne flowed from the fountain on the first floor. Fishers quiet time was spent in his personal library; this room is striking with its carved black walnut paneling, hand painted leather wall covering and large fireplace, the beamed ceiling is a work of art. The palatial living room is impressive; beautiful wood is the main feature from the subtle floor to the breath-taking ceiling, it has a distinctly German feel to it. Three large chandeliers are spaced down the middle of the room, matching wall sconces give it a warm glow. Marvelous glass doors adorn the room, letting in an evening breeze or leading to a balcony that overlooks the grounds. Pass through intricately carved doors to the dazzling music room, Wow! The beautiful turquoise walls highlight the metal ceiling we were told was made of brass, the detail is amazing, the original organ still occupies its space. The dining room is one of my favorite rooms in the house, there is not one inch of it that is not decorative; wood-paneled walls, carved walnut columns, marble floors, crystal chandeliers, and another Pewabic fountain featuring their infamous glazed tiles.

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The bedrooms are more subtle but still gorgeous, what I find most interesting are the bathrooms, seriously! Fisher’s mother had her own room at each of her sons homes, the tile in her bathroom is Pewabic and distinctly feminine. In contrast Mr Fishers bathroom is dramatic; bold blue and black tile trimmed in real silver, you have to see it to believe it. It’s incredible from the built-in towel racks and light fixtures to the enclosed shower, there is nothing money can’t buy. This house is truly a one of a kind masterpiece. In 1975 Henry Ford’s Grandson Alfred B Ford and Elisabeth Reuther (daughter of Walter P.) purchased the home and donated it to the Hare Krishna. Now used as the Bhaktivedanta Cultural Center it has taken on a distinctly Indian tone in decor and feel, it is an active temple where people come to worship.

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Though still open for tours, it is not your typical home tour, you must bring an open mind and a sense of adventure with you. I saw a sign that listed tours Saturday and Sunday at Noon, 2:00 and 3:30, but I wouldn’t necessarily say that is accurate. You can try calling ahead, leave a message if there is no answer. We just showed up about 12:30 on a Sunday and asked about a tour, a kindly soft-spoken man said he’d be happy to show us around. They were preparing for a celebration later in the afternoon; a great quantity of food was being prepared as the fragrance of curry permeated the air, a great deal of activity was going on indoors and out. Our tour guide himself worships at the temple, so along with information on the house we learned a bit about the Hare Krishna. We were invited to stay for the party but had to decline. Sadly time has taken its toll on this grand old treasure, the money isn’t there to keep up with the maintenance on such a monumental place. Having said that, it is still definitely worth a visit, you’ll never see another one like it!

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There was only one choice for lunch, it had to be Indian food. We’ve heard about a place in Hamtramck we wanted to try called Aladdin Sweets & Cafe on Conant. We parked right out front and went inside, we were there at an off-time so it wasn’t busy. We sat in the newly added room addition with its brightly painted yellow and green walls, our server was very pleasant as he brought us water and menus. They have a great selection of Bangladeshi dishes; some we were familiar with, others, not so much. It’s always fun to order some type of combination plate so you get to taste many different flavors, we went with #56 the Aladdin Platter featuring a nice selection of meats such as Tandoori Chicken, Lamb Tikka, Shrimp, and Shish Kabob. I must have vegetarian Samosa’s whenever we eat Indian food, and theirs were good! We rounded out the meal with something called Shag Paneer; homemade cheese fried and cooked with fresh spinach, we really liked it. If you’ve never had Indian food they offer a buffet for $7.99 which gives you the opportunity to try several different dishes.

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I have been biding my time waiting for Compuware’s first Urban Garden called Lafayette Greens to open. We took a drive over to the space previously occupied by the Lafayette building next to Lafayette/American Coney Island to check on the progress. To my delight the gate was open and we were allowed in to take a look around; What a sight! This space is gorgeous! Rows and rows of waist-high raised beds abundantly filled with vegetable plants, huge yellow squash dangle from a bed, cone-shaped okra wait to be harvested, cucumber plants climb high above the surface. Flowers are mixed in here and there adding a pop of color to the otherwise lush green plants, different varieties of sunflowers add a bit of personality to the view. The garden is a 3/4 acre oasis sitting right in the middle of the hustle and bustle of downtown. The Book Cadillac is a mere stones throw away, I wonder what out-of-town guests will think as they look out their window onto this lovely green space. This years harvest which includes; lettuce, kale, cabbage, tomatoes, onions and green beans will be donated to Gleaners Food Bank, much of the work is done by employees of Compuware who donate their time. It is so unexpected and refreshing to find such a jewel in the city. The grand opening is right around the corner so watch for it, then be sure to come down and check it out!

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Walter P Chrysler Museum, Red Knapps Dairy Bar, Paint Creek Cider Mill

20 Aug

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What do you like to do on a rainy Summer day? We got off to a late start on Sunday so we began our outing with lunch. Red Knapps Dairy Bar has been a staple of Main Street Rochester since 1950. I have been coming to this place all my life and enjoy it just as much now as I did when I was a kid. The decor is authentic kitschy diner, I like to sit at the dairy bar on the vintage red barstools. The food is exactly what you’d expect;  burgers, fries, onion rings and of course shakes and malts. The burgers are large here; they’re not fancy but you can dress them up with a variety of toppings, onions and relish are delivered to you in tupperware containers. You must try the onion rings, they are massive in size; cut fresh to order, battered and deep fried, they are the best we’ve ever had, one order can easily feed two. I much prefer a malt over a shake, but you can’t go wrong with either here, flavor choices go way beyond vanilla, chocolate and strawberry; how about mocha, peanut butter or butterscotch? I order mine double chocolate (made with chocolate ice cream) and extra malt, you don’t get malts like this just anywhere. It arrives at your table in a tall old fashioned glass with both a spoon and a straw along with the remainder left in the shiny metal mixing container, you can easily get another full glass out of it. Knapps is still owned by the family, Red’s son Gerald and his son Miles are in charge now and they still do things the old fashioned way, and we’re all glad for it.

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With the anticipation of the Woodward Dream Cruise in the air, we paid a visit to the Walter P Chrysler Museum in Auburn Hills. The 55,000 sq. ft. museum is spread out over three floors and has something for everyone. Cars have always been more than just transportation, they tell the history of America and what was going on in the world, they reflect the fashion of the times and the way people lived. Historical exhibits explain the significance of the more than 65 vehicles, and take you through the timeline of the Chrysler Corporation. The cars themselves are gorgeous; huge chrome bumpers, mouldings, and grills. Two-tone paint jobs in pink and cream, high impact colors like Sublime, Plum Crazy, and Vitamin C, and don’t forget wood-grain. Every decade is represented here; From Chrysler’s inception in the mid 20’s to the Art Deco styling of the Air Flow, right through WWII to the fabulous fins, chrome and colors of the 1950’s. Next up Muscle Cars with their stripes, scoops and spoilers; names like RoadRunner, Challenger and Super Bee. I love the clever marketing terms used in this era, a language all it’s own; Mod Top, Air Grabber,Tuff Wheel and Shaker! Would you like your ‘Cuda with a Pistol Grip or Slap-Stik shifter ?  Hood pins or rear window louvers your style? Paint it Sassy Grass Green or Moulin Rouge, it was all up to you. Then continuing into and out of the gas crunch with the Cordoba and Volare, K car, Shelby’s and Mini Vans. Then we arrive at the present with the gorgeous 2011 Dodge Challenger and Charger, I wish I could take them all home.

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Downstairs in addition to race cars and Jeeps you will find one of my favorites the Dodge La Femme,  specifically designed for women, this vehicle came with a matching umbrella and handbag, how cool is that! Kris has a great passion for cars and while he was initially attracted to the Muscle Cars, and he’s had his share, we have both grown to like and appreciate cars of all eras. When we travel we always like to go to the ‘local’ museum, it allows you to get a real sense of the people and the significance of a place when you know more about them.  The same can be said of the Chrysler Museum and Detroit, this city put the world on wheels, we have a truly amazing manufacturing history, one that we can all be proud of. They did a great job with this place, you can easily spend an hour or more just looking around. 

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VIEW  MORE COOL CARS HERE

When we left the museum we made our way over to scenic Orion Rd to get an ice cream at the Historic Paint Creek Cider Mill.  Located just off the Paint Creek Trail they are now open 7 days a week. Inside you can choose from a wide variety of flavors of Hershey’s Ice Cream, try the Cappuccino Crunch; coffee flavored ice cream with bits of crunchy toffee with deep chocolate fudge running through it. Yes, they have donuts even in Summer , how about a Maple Bacon? The massive covered porch allows you to sit outdoors even if the weather is less than ideal. We enjoyed our ice cream and the peaceful setting, before you know it the leaves will be turning and lines will be out the door!

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Detroit; Palmer Woods, Sweetest Heart Of Mary

17 Aug

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In previous posts I have mentioned that Detroit is full of hidden gems, on Saturday Kris and I had the pleasure of visiting another of them; Palmer Woods. The Palmer Woods Historic District is located directly west of Woodward and directly north of Palmer Park. In 1915 the Palmer family sold 88 acres of land to developer Charles W Burton, hence Palmer Woods was born. This is not your ordinary “old” neighborhood; this district breaks the gridiron tradition and instead offers winding drives and wooded vistas, lots are irregular shape and size–no two are alike, there are few through streets to deter traffic. Street names such as Gloucester, Balmoral and Cumberland reflect the English influence of the magnificent homes that reside here.

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Tudor Revival is the most prevalent architectural style; these homes are fitted with heraldic stained glass, ornate twisted chimney stacks,parapets, and slate roofs. Entryways are special; You will find arched doorways with elegant wooden doors and leaded glass windows, many are endowed with opulent lanterns mounted on the sides or hanging above, lighting the way in. Interiors are spectacular; hand carved oak, ornate plaster, ceiling medallions, crystal chandeliers and rose quartz handles on a faucet, we’ve seen it all on the Holiday Home Tours! Homeowners take great pride in their abodes; vintage concrete urns overflow with flowers, the landscaping is picturesque. In addition to the Tudor style you can also see a few Spanish style residences with traditional tile roofs, arched windows and meticulous stonework. Modern architecture is represented as well; sprawling ranches with fieldstone accents, funky 50’s homes with large sections of glass, there’s a little bit of everything.

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The most significant home has to be the 62 room Bishop Gallagher residence; built in 1925 for the Fisher Brothers, this 2-story, 40,000 sq. ft. home is the largest in the city of Detroit. It was home to Bishop Gallagher until his death in 1937, and then to subsequent bishops. Upon the death of Cardinal Dearden the archdiocese sold the home to then Detroit Piston John Salley. What were they thinking?? Today the home is a private residence and is as impressive and majestic as ever.

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The weekend we were here  Palmer Woods was hosting a neighborhood wide yard sale so it was the perfect opportunity to walk the lovely streets, to take our time and really see the details. You have to remember in the early 1900’s many major executives from the auto companies built homes here and lived very wealthy lives. Families with names like Fisher, Van Dusen, Sanders, Briggs, and Prentis called Palmer Woods home. Distinct architects named Frank Lloyd Wright, Minoru Yamasaki, C. Howard Crane and Albert Kahn all designed homes here,they are irreplaceable landmarks. I invite you to come take a walk and discover Palmer Woods for yourself.

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It happens every August; great quantities of superb food, music, dancing, a rummage sale and beer, it’s the Sweetest Heart of Mary Pierogi Fest!  Polish or not this is one annual event you should attend. Lets begin with the church itself; Sweetest Heart Of Mary, commonly referred to as “Hearts”, is a Polish ethnic parish located on Russell St. in Detroit. Constructed between 1890 and 1893 at a cost of over $125,000, the very first mass was said on December 24, 1893. Hearts is the largest Roman Catholic Church in Detroit and is truly the largest and most impressive Neo/Victorian Gothic Revival cathedral churches in the Midwest.

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This place is amazing! The exterior is red brick, the lower level of the facade stone, two towers flank the entrance with identical spires reaching 217 feet into the air. The spires house three large bells named St Mary, St Joseph, and St Barbara. Enter through the main doors to the awe-inspiring, jaw-dropping, imposing interior, it is the prettiest church I know. It’s difficult to take it all in, the first thing to grab your attention is the High Alter, it features the immaculate conception of Mary, there are several saints and on the lower level the Crucifixion, the right and left side alters are smaller but equally detailed, outside the sanctuary are two additional alters. A marble railing with a padded kneeler allow you to linger and wonder at the rich and lavish craftsmanship. The stained glass windows are sure to catch your eye, made by Detroit Stained Glass Works they are dazzling in their rich color, imposing in their size; each tells a story. The church itself is 202 ft. long by 90 ft wide and is illuminated by more than a dozen uniquely decorated glass chandeliers strung from the 88 ft tall ceiling. Exquisiteness and splendor are everywhere you look; marble pillars topped with golden capitals, wooden pews with decoratively carved sides, the intricate mosaic ceiling, a winding staircase to the elevated pulpit. Hearts still utilizes the original 1893 Austin Opus no. 2 Pipe Organ, it is the oldest Austin Organ still in service and the oldest surviving electric organ in the state of Michigan, it has a sound all it’s own.The two angel statues that reside at the back of the church blow their horn in what seems to be a celebration. 

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Outside we purchased tickets for our Polish dinner, with a price tag of $10 you will surely get your fill of pierogi, golabki, sauerkraut, and the most tender  city chicken you will ever eat, all served up with a nice piece of bread and butter.  Since we were sharing we also bought a blueberry nalesnike and a couple of potato pancakes with a scoop of sour cream, they really know how to cook, everything was delicious! Nothing goes better with a meal like that then a nice cold Polish beer, lucky for us Okocim was being sold in one of the tents!  With our stomachs full we wandered around the rest of the festival; tables are set up both under tents and on the lawn, a stage sits under the large tent where children dress in traditional attire and dance to the music of their ancestors. Parents and grandparents alike wear their pride in the smiles on their faces, while looking for the best vantage point to take a photo.  I like to have a seat in the shade and watch families participate in the excitement, older generations always have a story or memory to share with the younger members of the group. After checking out the bake sale with it’s traditional cookies and breads we dropped by the rummage sale; lots of interesting items, well organized and priced to sell. I found a vintage juice glass I had to take home, I only wish there were more….  Before we knew it most of the day had passed and it was time to go home, but what a day it was! Both of these places are such treasures, they are surely worth a visit. 

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A Drive In The Country; Wolcott Farm, Lamb’s Tail Antiques & Time on Main Cafe, Richmond

13 Aug

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Every once in a while you just need to escape from the fast-paced, traffic laden, frenzy of the city; even if it is only for a few hours.  Wolcott Mill Metro Park Farm Center surrounds you with that country feeling, located just outside of the northern suburbs you won’t have to drive all day or spend a small fortune on gasoline. The Farm Center is positioned on Wolcott Rd in Ray, and is actually just one of four parks in the metro park. This is a real working farm complete with a vegetable garden, goats, horses, pigs, chickens, turkeys, a gigantic rabbit, and of course my favorite; cows! I have to admit cows are my favorite farm animal, besides their sweet faces they provide us with milk, cheese, butter and ice cream; what’s not to love? The farm has lots of them; big and small, all brown or white with black spots, Holstein and Jersey, come see them being milked at 10am daily. Amble the farm roaming in and out of barns, take a deep breath of fresh air, listen to the sound of the clucking chickens and the baaa of the sheep, feel the simplicity of it all, it’s a great place to unwind. The center plans many activities through the year; A country fair, Farmers Camp for kids, Cider and Donut Wagon Rides and Farm Halloween. Fall is an especially beautiful time to visit.

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Continuing north on Wolcott past 32 Mile road, it will hook east and become Armada Ridge Road. Just as you round the bend you will come across an antique store called The Lamb’s Tail, do stop in! This is not your average country store; housed inside a Historical barn, this place is charming and whimsical, eye-catching displays lead you from one area to another, items for your home and garden, artwork and local honey. Drift from one room to the next imagining where to place different objects in your home. Dishes and glassware, mason jars in blue, vintage furniture, there’s a bit of everything here. The outside is just as lovely, vintage aprons hang from a clothesline, Victorian teacups and saucers are re-purposed as bird feeders, wonderful shabby wooden signs make declarations such as Beach, Michigan or Lake House, it almost makes you want to buy a cottage to place these enchanting wares.

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From there head east on Armada Ridge, this region bestows some photogenic scenery, then just sit back and enjoy the ride. With the recent rain the grass is a lush green, farm fields are bursting with produce, small stands along the road are piled high with baskets of tomatoes, squash and cucumbers. The corn stands tall waving in the summer breeze creating a perfect backdrop for large red barns and horses grazing. Lovely homes are set back from the road and far apart; from turn of the century to modern country estate. Seemingly every second home has a private pond, most bordered by gorgeous beds of flowers, sunflowers seem to be a popular choice. The smooth road curves and winds leaving you anxious to see what’s around the bend.

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Continue on, passing through the tiny town of Armada with its historic downtown, then proceed into Richmond where you will discover a wonderful cafe appropriately named Time On Main Street. This unexpected surprise would be at home in Birmingham or Rochester yet blends in perfectly in the country enclave of Richmond. Owners Phillip and Mimi have created something truly special here. Step inside this wonderful space with dark wooden floors, bright olive-green walls and a marble fireplace. Chandeliers light the large room giving it an elegant feel, have a seat at a high top table or on the settee, it’s all quite comfortable. Whether you come for coffee or for a meal you are sure to be satisfied.  The espresso is Barzula from Italy and it’s delicious, if you like your espresso sweet ask Phillip to make you a Cubano, and tell him Kris sent you, he’ll fix you up! He also makes a terrific cappuccino. The cafe menu consists of soup, salads and sandwiches, they always have a special of the day. We arrived hungry and ordered the House Salad with spinach, fresh mozzarella, walnuts, strawberries, blueberries and dried cherries with a balsamic dressing, everything was super fresh and flavorful. The special of the day was a Chipotle quesadilla; chicken, Roma tomatoes, purple onion and spicy cheese melted together on the panini press, scrumptious! You couldn’t meet nicer people than Mimi and Phillip, they pay attention to every detail and it shows from the food to the decor.

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Green Detroit

9 Aug

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On Friday, I had the great pleasure of meeting some amazing people; at the same time I witnessed with my own eyes the true meaning of community, kindness, generosity, and compassion. I imagine by now most people have heard about the “green” movement in Detroit, taking empty lots and turning them into gardens and farms. This is an enormous feat and is gone about in several ways; you have your Community Gardens, Urban Farms, and yet other spaces where individuals may rent private raised beds to grow food for their own consumption. I cannot think of a better way to use vacant land and at the same time unite communities, not to mention, feed people. We regularly drive by several of these gardens, but wanted to take some time to really seek out the ones off the beaten path, we were astounded by what we found.

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Our first stop was the Georgia Street Community Garden, we wandered from the car over to squares of land filled with plants bearing summer’s bounty; tomatoes, peppers, green beans and okra were just a few of the vegetables being grown. Kris was hard at work taking pictures when Mark, the Chairman of the Georgia Street Collective came over and struck up a conversation. This is a man who has live in this neighborhood his entire life, he had grown tired of looking at vacant, trash-strewn lots and decided to make a change, thus the community garden was born. Mark is one determined fellow, having gardened with his grandmother growing up he had the needed skills to prepare the land, do the planting, and nurture the plants through to harvest.  The labor is done by volunteers, but all are welcome to take part in the bounty, just come and pick what you need. What started out as a community garden has now grown into a collective made up of several lots, fruit trees, flower beds, even a few animals, and there are plans to expand!Also, the neighborhood now enjoys a community center building, which they acquired for $1, and provides a positive environment and activities for children and families who live here. Mark is one ambitious guy who has proven that one mans vision can become a reality and truly make a difference in people’s lives.

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Truly inspired we set off for the next location on our list, another community garden across from Forestlawn Cemetery; again we found a neighborhood in trouble, but along with that, a symbol of hope, of better days to come. A garden planted by neighbors and shared by neighbors, people coming together on their own, taking things into their own hands to create a better future for themselves. We stopped in at the Earthworks Urban Farm located behind the Gleaners Food Bank, Oh what a sight it was! Rows and rows of vegetables, green and lush reaching for the sky. Ripe red and yellow tomatoes dot the branches of enormous plants, bright purple eggplant dangle from branches, sunflowers stand guard high above the vegetables, you can hardly believe you are in a large urban city. The compost pile is mounded in a sort of berm along the garden getting ready for next season. This place is truly awe inspiring. Driving a little further on is a street named Farnsworth, home to a small community garden and several private ones. It seems as though many people who live here were attracted by the large empty spaces and the opportunity to fill them. On one corner we spotted what we thought to be a community garden, but as it turns out it belongs to a single family. Intrigued by the mass of vegetables, fruit trees and flowers I wanted to get a closer look. Lucky to find to the homeowner outside, he invited us into the fenced in yard to check it out. It took a full minute or two to take in the jaw-dropping expanse of the space; vegetables, herbs, fruits and flowers all growing side by side. Cantaloupe nearly the size of a soccer ball at our feet, hazelnuts clinging to branches on a nearby bush, Pears ripe and ready to pick, they even keep bees here! I have never seen anything like this anywhere, let alone Detroit! Turns out the homeowner outgrew his two lots in Southwest Detroit, and joined the many others taking advantage of the open space in the Farnsworth neighborhood. As you drive around the block even more gardens are sprouting up.

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Looking at all this fresh produce got our appetite going, so to stick with the theme of the day we had lunch at The Raw Cafe on Woodward. Open for lunch and dinner the cafe serves up gourmet organic raw food, the menu changes seasonally, giving you the opportunity to try different dishes. It is just what it says it is, raw food; salads, sandwiches, pizza and pasta all ‘living’ foods. We selected a salad and a wrap;  both had nice flavors, super fresh crisp vegetables, a nice dressing on the salad, and tasty sauce in the wrap. Portion size and prices are consistent with the current organic/raw trend. The service was a little slow, so I wouldn’t stop in on a day you are short on time. They had a consistent flow of customers coming in for carry-outs and smoothies to go. UPDATE: As of December 2012 Raw Cafe is out of business.

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With more gardens to see and the day growing short we visited the Spirit Farm over on Martin Luther King. Another large space, this one has a bit more whimsy to it. Wine bottles decorate a tree stump and are used to border different beds, discarded tires are put to use creating raised beds, chickens have their own fenced in space, and there’s even a small greenhouse, just amazing. In Southwest Detroit we took a stroll through Hubbard Farms Community Garden, I took a ride on the tree swing, the summer breeze gently blowing, as I studied the lovely site. Here again all are welcome; volunteer a little time to share in the upkeep, and the partake in the bounty. The largest area we saw this day was an Urban Farm over on Linwood and Gladstone, this farm is huge! If you see a large Urban Garden sign on the property bearing the Urban Farming logo you know that the food grown here is free to those who need it 24/7. This particular garden is self-sustaining, rainwater is collected and stored for future watering, it’s all so incredible to me. When we were there three people were out picking, toting large plastic containers to cart the farm fresh produce back to their kitchens. Sponsored by Coca-Cola and Home Depot several more of these urban farms are being planned. The Garden Resource Program provides support to more than 875 urban gardens and farms in Detroit, Highland Park, and Hamtramck and “Sweet on Detroit” supports urban bee keeping. I find it uplifting, encouraging, and heart-warming in this day and age where greed and selfishness seem to run rampant, that people are out there extending their hand, volunteering their time and resources to make the city of Detroit a better place for those who live there, and those spending time there.

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