Edsel and Eleanor Ford House, Grosse Pointe

30 Nov

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When people are on vacation they seem to develop a certain sense of curiosity and adventure, they visit a museum or two, tour a mansion, they drive around a bit, see new things, maybe even try a new type of cuisine.  I’d like to challenge you to take that same sense of adventure and do something you’ve never done right here in the metro Detroit area. Detroit is home to top museums, we have the second largest historic theatre district in the country, fine dining, art and culture. Men of wealth and power lived here, worked here, and changed the world from here, one of those men was Edsel Ford.

Edsel was the only child of Henry and Clara, he began working for his father at a young age and found the automobile business suited him perfectly. Edsel’s wife Eleanor lost her father at the age of twelve, it was then that her family moved in with her Uncle, J.L. Hudson. The fact that they came from affluent families paid a big part in their sense of appreciation for fine things. They were both known as extraordinary and generous, thanks to Eleanor their home is open to the public so we too can experience the beauty and elegance of the past. On an unseasonably warm November day we visited the Edsel and Eleanor Ford House on Lake Shore Drive.

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Construction on the home began in 1926, it took one year to build and two additional years to finish the interior. The home was designed by Albert Kahn; the Ford’s traveled with Kahn to England to choose the style of home they desired, there they decided on a Cotswold style home. Paneling and fireplaces were purchased from manor homes across England, rooms were disassembled, shipped to Grosse Pointe, then the pieces were fitted into the home. The exterior is sandstone, vines cover the walls, the roof is made up of hundreds of pieces of slate. The home sits on 3,100 feet of Lake St Clair waterfront, the view is stunning!

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Enter through the front door into the main hall, the ceiling is low, it is plaster with a beautifully carved pattern, the walls are sandstone, it feels cozy. A gorgeous Christmas tree sits in front of a large stained glass window. It is an old fashioned tree, green and flocked as if there had just been a snowfall. Elongated ornaments hang from the limbs, these were custom made for Mrs Ford by Ford Motor Company. The tree is a replica of one of Eleanor’s favorites they had put up for a party years ago, the ornaments are the originals. One of my favorite things about visiting this home is that it looks the way it did when the family lived here. These are their furnishings, dishes, books, the things they used in their everyday life. It is thanks to Eleanor’s forethought that we can visit her home; she put the house in a trust so that it would be open to the public. She was devastated when the nearby Dodge mansion was demolished, and did not want her home to share that same fate.

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As you walk from room to room really look around, the paneling is 16th century oak, the carvings are finely detailed, the linen fold amazes me. The stained glass windows are 14th century, fireplaces are centuries old. The Gallery is the largest room in the home, measuring 25 x 60 feet this is where the family held large gatherings. Here you’ll find another carved plaster ceiling, English paneling and a huge Gothic chimney piece. This is a great time of year to visit, the house is decked out for the holidays, the Christmas trees are lovely and many of the ornaments are original. The Fords had purchased many paintings from significant artists, the ones that were donated to the DIA or were taken by the children have been replaced by reproductions, some originals still hang. Yes, the house is huge, but each room has it’s own feel, the rooms are decorated and arranged in such a way that they feel welcoming and comfortable. I think I like the dining room the most; furnished in dark Pine from a 1740 home in England, it is lit only by sunlight during the day and candelight and the glow of the fireplace in the evening, it is a spectacular room. The table is set for a holiday  meal with Mrs Fords china; an elaborate lace tablecloth covers the wooden table, delicate stemware awaits the evening’s wine. Like many homes, they also had a children’s table, this one sits in front of the window overlooking the grounds.

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The Fords raised four children here, the youngest William was only four when they moved in. Their bedrooms were redone as guest rooms after the children moved away, other rooms were updated as well. The modern room is a great example of Art Deco; done in the 1930’s it is still stylish by today’s standards. Everything for this room was custom made, much of it is built-in and bolted to the floor. The Steinway piano is custom made and one of a kind. If you like ultra modern style be sure and check out Henry’s bathroom; the walls are a grey glass called Vitrolite, it’s really cool.  As you may have noticed by now, photos are not allowed inside the home. You are allowed to photograph outdoors and inside the garage, which is where we are heading next.

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The home rests on 87 acres of land, on the property is the main house, gate house, power house, pool house, garage and the playhouse. If you can, walk around a bit outside, the exterior detail on the house is exquisite; simple things like downspouts and brackets are detailed and elegant. If you’re lucky you may catch a glimpse of a passing freighter. The grounds were landscaped by Jens Jenson, he also designed the grounds at Henry and Clara’s home in Dearborn. The man made lagoon once opened out onto the lake, but was closed off for the family’s privacy. Be sure and see Josephine’s playhouse; it was a gift to her from grandma Clara in 1930. It is adorable; everything is scaled down to perfectly fit a little girl, it even has electricity and plumbing!

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Walk a little further to the garage; it was built to hold eight cars, and there’s a turntable so you never have to back out of the garage. One of the most impressive vehicles is the 1941 Lincoln Continental Cabriolet, which was designed by Edsel himself, Frank Lloyd Wright called it the “most beautiful car in the world”. It is still one of the most highly thought of designs of all time. The Cabriolet, 1934 Brewster Town Car and the 1938 Lincoln Brougham were all owned by the Ford’s. Check out the kids go-karts.   People from all over the world visit the Ford house, come see it for yourself.

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For lunch we drove to the area of Grosse Pointe known as “The Village”. On the corner of Kercheval and St Clair is a little restaurant called TN Thai. They have a great selection of sushi on the menu, 35 different sushi rolls alone! We have not had their Thai as of yet, but every plate that went by looked appetizing. In the warmer months we like to sit out on the patio, but those days are gone now. We like to start with their Fresh Rolls, these are some of the best we’ve ever had; rolled tight and packed with delicious fillings like tofu, bean sprouts, noodles and cilantro. They serve a cup of soup with all meals, broth based, with bits of cilantro, it’s really good. We’ve never been disappointed with their sushi, and we’ve tried many varieties, today’s was no exception. I love the Jasmine tea either hot or iced, Kris prefers the raspberry iced tea, either way, you can’t go wrong.

Vintage Hamtramck

27 Nov

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Located within the city of Detroit, is the city of Hamtramck, only 2.1 sq. miles  in size, it is Michigan’s most internationally diverse city. Known mostly for it’s Polish heritage, Hamtramck has many facets. Our plan for today was to check out the vintage shops in town. We parked in the centrally located parking lot behind the shops on the east side Joseph Campau, the mild temperature made it a nice day for walking. 

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There was a great deal of activity down one of the side streets; trucks, cables, and huge lights, a now familiar sight around the Detroit area, which means they are filming. Rumor has it GM is making a commercial for the Volt, which is built at the assembly plant right in Hamtramck. Using the city as a backdrop and featuring local residents, the commercial is supposed to air on Superbowl Sunday. Our first stop was the Record Graveyard on Caniff, dealing exclusively in vintage vinyl records, this is a vinyl collectors nirvana. I know nothing about vintage records, yet I find this place fascinating. The album covers immediately grab your attention, with just one look you can usually identify the decade the the album was released. The records are organized by genre; the male vocal selection is dominated by Frank Sinatra, Gene Autry, Country Western section, if you like Jazz, you’ve come to the right place. As I walk around and see names like Glady’s Knight and the Pips songs start playing in my head.(Are you humming Midnight Train to Georgia now?) I recognize the names of artists from my parents generation; Steve and Eydie, Frankie and Annette, Boots Randolph,I even saw Pat Boone. Movie soundtracks are always fun to look through, I find myself saying “Oh yeah, I remember that movie”. Lining the top portion of the walls is a collection of the more risque covers featuring scantily clad women in seductive poses.Back in the day it seems that the cover art was as important as the record inside and is now recognized as such. This is a great place to come and browse, you may even find a piece of your past that you want to take home. The building Record Graveyard now occupies is currently for sale, but the owners are committed to staying in Hamtramck, therefore it is a good idea to call before you make the trip! 313-870-9647.

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Detroit Threads specializes in vintage items and new clothing by local merchants, along with records, CD’s and DVD’s. Every inch of the store is packed with merchandise, aisles are narrow and items are displayed floor to ceiling. I like to take my time, there is so much to see I usually have to walk through twice. New t-shirts and hoodies in all sizes and colors feature both Detroit and Hamtramck. The quantity of used clothing is vast; snazzy sport coats for men in tweed, shark skin and metallic  lame, dressy coats for women in leopard print, wool and even fur.They have great accessories for both men and women including hats, shoes, purses and neck ties. When film crews are in town they often stop in when looking for vintage items.  If you look carefully you can find cool items from Detroit icons like Vernor’s , Stroh’s and Kowalski.  Detroit Threads is also well known for their extensive collection of LP’s, they have it all from local techno to disco and import records, local DJ’s are regular shoppers. They have a little bit of everything and each time you go there’s something new to see. 

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A couple of doors down at 10022 Jos. Campau is a shop called Lo and Behold. Only open for a few months now, the selection is quite random; old furniture, records, posters,knick-knacks, books, clothing, kitchen items, even an old saxophone; the plan is to transition more into records and books. It’s always fun to shop in a store like this because you never know what you’ll find. I always like it when there are several resale type shops grouped together, I can park once and browse for hours.

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Keeping the vintage theme going, we had lunch at Polonia Polish Restaurant on Yemans. Serving up some of Hamtramck’s best Polish and Eastern European food for over 40 years, it has a loyal following. The inside is quaint, a mural depicting life in old Poland covers the back wall, tables and booths line the dining space, authentic Polish dishware is displayed on shelves, Polish music plays in the background. The front of the menu is a Polish Short Dictionary, it includes: Good Day, Please and Thank You, and of course, Kiss Me and I Love You. The phrase is first written in English with the Polish next to it, now if I only knew how to pronounce it……. The combination plate gives you a bit of everything; pierogi, kilebasa, sauerkraut, mashed potatoes, and golabki, it’s so good! My mouth waters just thinking about it. We love potato pancakes so we ordered those too. Fried to a crispy brown outside, tender and moist inside, slathered with sour cream of course, delicious. Back in 2009 Anthony Bourdain filmed a segment here for the Travel Channel and introduced a whole new audience to the restaurant.

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On our way back home we made one last stop at Bozeks Market on Caniff, not that we needed anything, it’s just fun to look around. The store specializes in central and eastern European foods, especially Polish. The selection of chocolates and sweets is huge; the packaging is pretty, pictures on labels aid in determining what each item is, I’d like to try one of each. Fresh produce, meats and breads are all reasonably priced, everything looks good. Many of the shoppers speak their native language to store employees, the language sounds soft and kind. Besides food you can find cosmetics, magazines and newspapers written in Polish along with liquor packaged in attractive bottles. Before leaving we revisited the candy aisle and indiscriminately chose a candy bar to share, I’m not sure exactly what it was, but it sure was good!

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The Fabulous Fisher Building

23 Nov

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In August 1927, ground was broken for a new building that would be home to the offices of Fisher and Company. Having purchased seven acres, and employing architect extraordinaire Albert Kahn, the Fisher brothers spent $9 million dollars to create The Fisher Building. A little background here; the seven Fisher brothers developed the closed body for auto manufacturing, you may remember GM cars had “Body by Fisher” at one time, these are the men responsible for that. They amassed fortunes, so money was no object in creating what they wanted to be the world’s most beautiful office building. Often referred to as “Detroit’s largest art object”, it is one of those places you have to see to believe.

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Enter the building from from Grand Blvd or Lothrop for the most impressive view. The main arcade is 30 feet wide 44 feet high and 600 feet long, this place is incredible! It’s difficult to decide what to focus on, my eyes are usually drawn to the towering art deco chandeliers first; ranging from 5 to 8 feet tall they hang from the center arcade and softly illuminate this work of art. Everywhere you look there is something beautiful; 3 original mosaics enhance the grand arcade, solid bronze medallions are laid into the floor, 40 different varieties of marble from all over the world, brass and bronze decorate the interior. The elevator doors are incredibly detailed and vary from floor to floor. Geza Maroti was brought from Hungary to Detroit by Eliel Saarinen to work on Cranbrook, while he was here Kahn hired him to work on the Fisher. Maroti hand painted the frescoes, he also created the lunettes, plaques and mosaics.

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Take the stairway to the second floor; here you can get an up close view of the magnificent chandeliers. From this level you can really appreciate the intricate floor patterns, notice the same architectural design is repeated throughout the building. Walk up to the third floor, now you are in the thick of things. Find yourself surrounded by hand painted decor; there are 60 nude figures painted on the ceiling of the arcade, no two are alike, dozens of eagles, hemlock, and oranges fill up the space. 40 % of the ceiling is gold leaf, and from here it is stunning. Standing in the archway at the end of the hall you are completely surrounded by decoration, it’s tempting to reach out and touch the walls, but don’t! When you have had your fill of sightseeing on the third and second floor return to the main floor for a snack and a little shopping.

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Start at Stella International Cafe for a beverage and a snack, carry it over to the lobby that is across from the Fisher Theatre. Have a seat at one of the tables, make yourself comfortable and just sit there and take in the surroundings. This is my favorite little area, the ornamentation here is insanely gorgeous. The blending of marble and bronze, exotic sconces and more chandeliers, wow! While you are sitting there think about this; this was built as an office building, seriously. Since the 20’s  regular people like you and I would come here to shop, have a bite to eat, maybe see their dentist or accountant. Men would smoke their pipes, couples would dress up to attend a show at the renowned Fisher Theatre.  Looking to do a little shopping? Stop in the Detroit Gallery of Contemporary Crafts, if you are looking for something unique, you can find it here. From glassware, pottery and jewelry to clothing and art objects their selection is first class. While inside note the amazing Pewabic Pottery flooring. If you’re looking for something Detroit, then by all means stop in at Pure Detroit. T-shirts, music, Sanders, Faygo, Pewabic Pottery, and a great book selection; chances are if it’s a Detroit thing they have it here.

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You may not know this but the Fisher building connects to the Albert Kahn building and the old GM building through a series of underground corridors, how cool is that? You have to check it out; from the lower level of the Fisher building follow the the tiled corridors from building to building, they even made these pretty. I love the mailboxes that are built into the walls and the drinking fountains that can be found here and there. This is a great convenience on those cold winter days. We usually come up through the Kahn building, another fine example of beautiful design. Once outdoors take the time to really look at the Fisher building, the main tower is 28 stories, it was originally covered with gold-leaf tiles, but has since been replaced with tiles made of green terracotta. If you listen to WJR you have heard them say they are coming to you “from the Golden Tower of the Fisher Building”, now you know why. Since 1928 this golden tower has  brightened the Detroit skyline, that same year Albert Kahn received the Architectural Leagues Silver Medal, designating this as the most beautiful structure of the year. In 1989 the building was designated a National Historic Landmark.  I invite you to come and experience it for yourself, it is a must-see Detroit landmark!

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Time to eat! We drove a few blocks over to Baltimore to Northern Lights Lounge, you can park in their lot or right on the street. The sign out front is indicative of what you will find inside, that cool 50’s lounge style. They do a nice job with it, great retro furniture and lighting, and shuffleboard too. There’s a roomy sitting area in the front, seating is laid out in a way that makes it easy for small groups to converse. The dining area is large and offers regular or high top tables and booth seating. All the old standards were represented on the lunch menu, we had the cobb salad with their spicy homemade ranch dressing. The salad was huge, thick strips of ham, turkey and swiss cheese were placed on top alongside halved hard boiled eggs; the dressing was good, I liked the kick of spice it added. The sandwich decision was little harder, the Baltimore Burger caught our eye, so we gave it a try. Similar to a Big Boy the burger was topped with cheese, onions, and thousand island dressing, it was served with a pile of seasoned fries that were crisp and tasty. Our waitress couldn’t have been nicer and the service was quick. It’s a good place to keep in mind when you are in this section of the city.

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Cranbrook Art Museum, Village of Franklin

16 Nov

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After two years and much anticipation, the Cranbrook Art Museum re-opened 11-11-11 with their first exhibition in the renovated space. Designed by Eliel and Eero Saarinen and opened in 1942 the museum was due for some sprucing up. Additionally the museum was expanded by 20,000 sq. ft. with the attachment of the new collections wing. To celebrate the grand re-opening the museum is offering expanded hours and tours, lectures and events for 11 days, and each day the museum will be open for, you guessed it, 11 hours.These special tours are only offered until November 21, don’t miss your chance to see the vault! Kris was itching to get in an old car and go for a scenic drive; between the two lane roads, magnificent homes, and remaining fall color, a trip out to Bloomfield Hills fit the bill perfectly.

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We didn’t know what to expect when we got to Cranbrook, would there be parking, would there be a line to get it, would it be so crowded we wouldn’t be able to see anything if we did get in? We were pleasantly surprised when we found a great parking spot right by the museum, and then again, when we walked right in. Our timing was right on, as there was a tour of the vault, aka the collections wing at 1pm. The new exhibit is called “No object is an Island”, it was an interesting pairing of artists who previously went to Cranbrook with today’s contemporary artists.

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We had just enough time to finish looking around when the guide gathered us together to go down to the vault. It was all very surreal to me, like being in some Hollywood film where a big heist is about to take place. We entered through the curved steel door to the faint sound of a tripped alarm in the background. The door slid closed behind us and we started our walk down the concrete block hallway. It is all so modern and high-tech looking,  a grey maze of dimly lit hallways, the ceiling has a cage like covering suspended over it, art objects are displayed in small rooms behind a glass walls, it feels very futuristic. We were taken into different rooms where the collections are stored; the brilliance of the new wing is that whatever is not on view in the museum is stored in a manner where it can be easily accessed and observed by students and the public community when desired. It was a fascinating tour.

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We continued our lovely drive, stopping in at the Village of Franklin. This tiny enclave oozes charm, from the historic homes to the quaint shops, it’s hard to pass through town without stopping. We were ready for lunch and the Franklin Grill and Tavern looked very inviting. Built in the 1840’s the building was originally home to the local carriage and blacksmith shop, the uses changed over the years and in 2001 it became the grill. The building is painted barn red with pretty white trim, the outside is adorned in Autumn decor. The inside has a sort of rustic-contemporary feel to it, a wood rafter ceiling and the same barn red colored walls works well and feels very comfortable. The menu changes with the seasons, and supports Michigan farmers. Everything sounded delicious, and every plate that went by made us rethink our selection. Finally we settled on the Art of Sicily sandwich; artichokes, mushrooms, spinach, and red onion all grilled and placed on a wonderful focaccia bread then topped with mozzarella and a balsamic marinade, it was sooooo good! Served alongside were the best sweet potato fries I have ever eaten. Thick, steak cut pieces of sweet potato, so crispy on the outside, there was a nice crunch biting into them, yet moist and tender on the inside. The Turkey Stretch salad was wonderful too; roasted turkey breast cut into thick strips placed on a bed of fresh baby spinach, sprinkled with toasted walnuts, dried cherries, the perfect amount of goat cheese and a tasty chive vinaigrette, it was outstanding. $8 for the sandwich and $12 for the salad, not bad, the quality of food is worth it. It was a really nice experience, the staff was great, the atmosphere relaxing, and a menu that left us wanting to come back soon.

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We left the car parked in the back parking lot and walked over to the Franklin Cider Mill. Completed in 1837, the mill has been a staple of Franklin for generations and has a huge local following. We make at least one trip here each Fall, you are always guaranteed hot donuts and great cider. The outside has that great cider mill appeal; quaint historic structure situated on a river, offering everything from apples, jams, local honey, caramel and candy apples and Michigan squash to pies, scones, breads, and their famous cinnamon spice donuts. They only serve the one kind of donut here, which makes it easy for people who have a hard time making up their mind. We purchased our donuts which were handed over to us in a brown paper bag, you could feel the heat coming through. By the time we made our way outdoors to eat them, a small grease stain had formed on the bottom of the bag, assuring us that they would be excellent! We ate two each and washed them down with cups of cider. Standing on the small wooden deck with an empty  cup in one had and remnants of donut on the other, I looked around the place; dozens of mallards floating in the river waiting to be fed, the last remnants of Autumn color in the trees, hold out stacks of pumpkins and cornstalks and the combined scent of apples and fried donuts in the air. Wearing only a light jacket in November, going for one last ride in an old car for the season; it doesn’t get much better than this.

DETROIT: John King Books, Mexicantown

12 Nov

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 For as long as I can remember I have loved books, from fairy tales and nursery rhymes to Dr Seuss and Nancy Drew, my childhood was filled with stories, and I have never lost my affection for them. Once I learned to read on my own, I never stopped. I love the way a book feels in my hands, the sound of opening a brand new hardcover to the first page, placing my favorite bookmark between the pages, you’ll never be able to convince me to give that up for some electronic device. Located in Detroit, west of downtown on Lafayette, in what used to be a glove factory, is an amazing store by the name of John King Books.

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The store is pretty easy to spot, it’s four stories tall, painted light blue, and sits near the Lodge Freeway. There is a small lot alongside for free parking. Enter through the front doors; here, inside the lobby, is where you will find an assortment of free books, yep, free, but bring your own bags. Enter the actual shop through a single glass door, you have to make a quick right turn and then you are in the thick of things. Take in a deep breath, appreciate the scent of thousands of books, the sheer volume is mesmerizing, where do you start? It really doesn’t matter, just enjoy the fact that you are here, and begin the process of wandering four floors of the written word.

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   John King is Michigan’s largest used and rare bookstore, directly behind the main building is a smaller one that houses the sizable collection of art books and a rare book room, this building is open by appointment only. People come from all over to peruse shelf after shelf, every subject and category is represented; you can take something home from Henry James, Betty Crocker, Shakespeare, and Michael Connelly.  Mixed in the store are framed prints, maps and postcards displayed on walls, glass showcases contain other types of vintage treasures. The floors are old and wooden they creak as you cross from section to section. It’s quiet in here, almost like a library; quite a contrast to when this was a factory filled with workers and the sound of industrial sewing machines. The space is mammoth, large cast iron radiators line the walls but are unable to keep up with the chill that emanates from the outdated windows. Dozens of fluorescent light fixtures are suspended from the ceiling, turn them on while you are browsing, but be sure to turn them off before you leave. Each floor has a map as you come through the door, or you can pick one up from the desk when you enter the store, it is a very handy tool. There are clerks scattered on the different floors to help you out if you are looking for something specific, I recommend wandering aimlessly on your first visit. 

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It’s easy to lose track of time, but my stomach reminded me it was time to eat. We made the short drive over to Mexicantown and stopped in at Evie’s Tamales. Sitting on Bagley as it has for over 25 years, Evie’s is, of course, famous for the tamales. We chose a table in the compact restaurant, glanced at the menu, then placed our order. We had to get the Tamales, the menu listed several varieties that had my mouth watering, but they only had the pork. Let me say, they were absolutely delicious! It is no wonder this is the place to get Tamales. The rest of the food was standard, good Mexicantown fare. They also do a big carry-out business here as you can buy Tamales by the dozen, fresh or frozen.

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                                                                                                                                       It was a nice day so we walked up and down Bagley and stopped in at a few of the shops. We both love the colors and style of Mexico, so bright and lively. We went into the local party supply store, Creaciones Lina, and found ourselves surrounded by pinata’s; many hang from the ceiling in different shapes and sizes to choose from. Mickey and Minnie Mouse pinata’s stand on the floor about 4 feet tall, they even had a Cinderella pinata that little girls would go crazy over. Custom pinata’s are what they are known for, whether it be a character, a logo, or a person, just bring them a photo and they will custom build it.  

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While visiting Mexicantown be sure and drop by Xochi’s Gift Shop. As soon as you step in you detect the rich smell of leather, Xochi’s has a really nice selection of cowboy boots. I am charmed by the tiny Mexican trinkets; miniature versions of food on minuscule plates, toy vases, minute guitars, cowboy hats and chili peppers. Having recently celebrated the Day Of The Dead the selection of skulls and skeletons was at it’s peak, my husband liked these the best; he found them both fascinating and beautiful. The store carries Wrangler Jeans, authentic apparel and handicrafts of Mexico, it’s all lovely. From traditional costumes and cowboy hats to the hand-painted ceramics and terracotta. Toward the back of the store you can find larger pieces and engaging paintings of Mexico. Everything here is vibrant in color and feels cheerful.

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There was a bit of a chill in the air, so it was a necessity we stop in at Cafe Con Leche for one of Jordi’s special Spanish Hot Chocolates. I’m telling you, you’ve got to try one! So heavenly, so rich and thick and chocolately. This is seriously good stuff, eat it with a spoon. 

Grosse Ile

9 Nov

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Residing in the south end of the Detroit River with Michigan to the west and Ontario Canada to the east is Grosse Ile. Purchased in 1776 by William and Alexander Macomb from the Potawatomi Indians it seems the island is relatively unknown to the general masses, I’m guessing the current population of just over 10,000 people prefer it that way. Grosse lle is one of those places we love to take a drive to from time to time; from West Jefferson Ave pay your $2.00 and cross over the toll bridge that has welcomed folks to the island since 1913. As soon as you are on the island you will notice life takes on a slower pace here; made up mostly of residential and open spaces Macomb Street is the only district zoned for business and where residents go to shop, gather, eat and visit the Post Office.

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                                                                                                               Sunday was another gorgeous Autumn day, perfect for a drive to and around the island. Coming across the bridge we noticed dozens of swans taking in the sunshine. Off the toll bridge we made a right turn and followed scenic West River Drive along the shoreline. It’s hard to decide what direction to look; on one side is the beautiful blue water and what remains of the last bit of fall foliage, on the other side are lovely homes, some of which have been enjoying this panorama since the 1800’s. We made a left on Groh to head to the other side of the island but were distracted by a sign that read “Alpaca’s”. Located at the NE end of the Grosse Ile Municipal Airport is the Gibraltar Bay Alpaca Farm. I’m never one to turn down an opportunity to visit with animals, so Kris pulled into the parking lot and we went to check it out. The extremely friendly owner greeted us at the gate and asked if we’d like to see the Alpaca’s, we said yes, he led the way. He took over from the original owner 12 years ago and has a visible fondness for these animals. Some are his, some are boarded there; each one has a name and it’s own distinct personality. We started with the boys, boys and girls are kept apart and each have a large area in which to graze and roam. As we got closer to the gate a few curious Alpacas came over to see what we were all about; these animals are striking, large eyes surrounded by long lashes give them a gentle appearance, they are mild mannered and these boys in particular seemed to enjoy the attention from us humans. Next it was over to the girls section. The girls were a little more nonchalant, they would look over at us, some would walk towards us, and then go back to what they were doing. They are sheared on the farm by the owner, he gives each one a little different look that fits their character; it’s easy to pick out the glamour girls! There were a few youngsters running around, they are a bit more apprehensive, and just adorable. What a cool experience just to be there among these docile creatures. Don’t leave without visiting the gift shop, there is some wonderful Alpaca merchandise for sale. The farm is open daily from 10am to 5pm and is definitely worth seeing.

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We continued east on Groh to East River and made a left, this is where many of the elite built homes for Summer or year-round living. One of my favorites is the Victorian Wedding Cake House, located on East River between Parkway and Macomb, you can’t miss it… it’s stunning! The architectural styles vary from the very old to the very modern, somehow each looking like that’s exactly where they belong. Whatever your taste, I’m sure you’ll find something that appeals to you. If you look closely you can catch a view of the Detroit skyline in the distance. The people who built and lived here combine to create an amazing history of the island.

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Next stop the Grosse Ile Historical Museum; housed in the former Michigan Central Grosse Isle Depot building this tiny museum retains it’s historical charm inside and out. Since 1969 pertinent items reflecting life on the island have been stored and displayed here, it’s kind of like visiting your grandparents or great aunt. Take a little time to really look around, volunteers are happy to answer your questions and even make suggestions as to what to see while on the island. I always enjoy a little local museum, it makes me feel as if I know a place a little better for having stopped in.

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The day was flying by and we were past due for lunch, the business district was mostly closed down on a Sunday so we drove back over to West River to eat at Sharky’s Tavern. Located south of the free bridge, it’s across the road from the river and the closest thing to riverfront dining you’ll get. The casual restaurant seems to be a meeting place for locals to hang out, have a few beers and catch up. The menu has a nice selection of salads, sandwiches, and their famous Walleye Chowder. It was too nice a day to order soup, it somehow puts me in the mind of cold weather. We actually thought it was nice enough to eat out on the patio, but being November it was closed for the season. We ordered typical lunch fare; a club sandwich and the Traverse City salad. There’s something so appealing about a club sandwich, and this one was good, just the right amount of everything, and perfectly cooked crisp bacon. Our waitress couldn’t have been nicer and the service was great. Before returning home, we took one more lap around, soaking up the picture-perfect views. Grosse Ile, an island getaway just a half hour south of The D!

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Halloween in Romeo

3 Nov

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It was another beautiful Fall Sunday, which means we had a chance to visit yet one more cider mill. This time we went north to 32 Mile to Miller’s Big Red, the oldest U-Pick apple orchard in Washington Township. You’ll recognize Miller’s immediately by the giant smiling apple wearing a green hat. We took a walk through the greenhouse first to check out the pumpkin selection, it was the day before Halloween, so the pumpkins that remained were displayed down the center aisle. Families walked about pushing their cart deciding which ones would serve as their jack-o-lanterns. It seems the children always go for size, the bigger the better, dad reluctantly agrees as he loads it on the cart and pushes towards the check out. Next up, the cider mill; they were not pressing the apples but it was still interesting to see the equipment and the cider making process. Miller’s offers a nice variety of goodies; fresh baked pies, breads, caramel apples with nuts, sprinkles, or candies. There are jams and jellies and of course cider and donuts! It’s impossible to leave the building without a warm donut and a cup of cider, for me that is the essence of Autumn. Groups of people were arriving, some heading to the petting farm, others gathered for a hayride, all enjoying the mild temperatures and brilliant colors of an October day in south eastern Michigan.

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Just a short drive away you will find the charming Village of Romeo. The actual downtown and original neighborhood have changed very little from the 1850’s when wealthy timber families were building Victorian beauties up and down local streets. Drive through the village on any ordinary day, the homes are nurtured and well-kept with large trees that line the streets. It is all quite peaceful and takes you back to a time when things were simple and slow-paced. But, drive through in October and things look a little different; skeletons and ghouls reign as front yards are turned into cemeteries, clusters of carved out pumpkins rest on porches, the windows of houses are boarded up, and entire homes are wrapped up in webs of what must be gigantic spiders. This is Tillson Street in October! For over 20 years and counting Terror On Tillson has become one of Romeo’s biggest tourist draws. Beginning early in the month neighbors begin the slow and complicated process of decorating for Halloween, you might be asking yourself, what’s she talking about? It’s Halloween, how complicated can that be? Well, let me first say, these are no ordinary decorations! I would compare it more to a movie set than decorating, scenes are elaborate; from graveyards complete with wrought iron looking fences and clever headstones, to a cornfield complete with scarecrows, and a grand masquerade ball. There’s a castle and a pirate ship, one house even has an electric chair. The creativity is awe-inspiring; fog machines, spooky music, cellar doors clamor and light peeks through as something tries to escape, nearby a hearse is parked on a lawn. It is absolutely amazing, really. If you have small children I would recommend visiting during daylight hours, at night the scariness level goes up a whole bunch of notches, adults gasp as they are startled by special effects.  One house sells T-shirts, a neighborhood cookbook, and refreshments, with all of the proceeds going to academic and athletic scholarships for Romeo High School Students. The homeowners pay for everything, including the candy they pass out to trick-or-treaters on Halloween. They estimate they get about 2000 children! The street is closed off at that time for safety reasons. It is truly a unique event that you have to see for yourself.

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CHECK OUT MORE HAUNTING PHOTOS HERE

Thee Office Pub & Cookery is located on South Main in downtown Romeo. They say as a small town Romeo is unique because the downtown never suffered a major fire, therefore many of the buildings and their interiors are original, most with ornate tin ceilings. Thee Office Pub is one such example, exposed brick walls, rich dark wood and decorative ceiling give it that historic charm. Opened since 1980 it is a neighborhood favorite, on our visit it seemed as though patrons and staff were all old friends. The menu’s offerings include sandwiches, homemade soups, burgers and pizza. On the suggestion of a friend we ordered a small pizza with our selected toppings and an antipasto salad. The pizza was 8 good-size slices, the crust thin and tender, very good. The antipasto could probably feed more than 2, but we were really hungry. Crisp lettuce, chunks of ham and salami, peppers, onions, tomatoes and shredded cheese, delicious.  All in all we had a great afternoon get away.

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DETROIT : Fall fun at Eastern Market

1 Nov

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No matter the season or what the weather is doing, to me any Saturday is perfect to go to Eastern Market. On our most recent visit the sky was light blue, colorful leaves were still clinging to trees and the market was decked out in Autumn’s glory. It was just a couple of days until Halloween and pumpkins were plentiful, from pie-sized to fully painted we had our pick. Huge bins were piled high with any variety of gourds or squash you could imagine. As we walked from shed to shed the sweet smell of apples filled the air; Gala, Fugi, Mutsu, Honeycrisp, and Pinata to name a few. Did you know Michigan grows more variety of apples than any other state? Baskets of them covered the table tops of individual vendors creating a sort of rainbow of apples.

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It is the end of the harvest in the Great Lakes State and here the yield was gathered and available for purchase; potatoes, peppers, red onions, and the last tomatoes of the season. It wouldn’t be fall without apple cider, would you like it hot or cold? Indian corn, pomegranates, and mass quantities of mums are a delight to see. Buskers perform in and out of sheds, the one-man-band was simply amazing playing several instruments and singing Detroit versions of  old Folk  songs. The somber notes of the saxophone player hung in the chilly air as passerby’s dropped money into his red-lined instrument case. Giant apples decorated by local artists stand in the center of aisles celebrating the fondness of this much appreciated fruit.Every weekend brings something new and it’s always a good time.

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Besides the market itself, this area is also lined with produce and specialty food stores, antique shops, restaurants, and a great little boutique on Riopelle called Savvy Chic. Take a peek inside this charming home decor shop; there is always a wonderful candle scenting the air, items are placed in a thoughtful and pleasing way throughout the 2-room shop. There are pieces for entertaining at home, hostess gifts, unique jams, jewelry and scented soaps and lotions. There are pieces of furniture both new and repurposed, cards, and books. Take your time as you browse so you don’t miss anything, it’s a nice mix of old and new pieces.

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  bbbb 068                                                                                                                                                                                                                 We had built up our appetite walking around, so we stopped in at Vivio’s for lunch. The Vivio family has been feeding market-goers in this location for over 40 years. The first thing most folks think of when you mention Vivio’s Food and Spirits is a full pint of Bloody Mary served with a generous slice of dill pickle and a shot of beer along side it, and it’s easy to see why. I don’t think there was a single table that did not have at least one of their famous cocktails. The building itself has a homey feel to it, like when you were a kid and you’d visit you Aunts and Uncles for large family gatherings, The decor runs the gamut from vintage Budweiser and sports memorabilia to animal heads  and collectibles.  Stained glass lamps light the room along with a large stained glass piece over the bar. Service is quick and friendly even when there’s a crowd. We had the Pastrami Burger, one of their specialties; an Angus burger topped with pastrami and melted Swiss served on a baked pretzel roll with a side of McMahon’s Irish ale mustard, it makes for a nice combination of flavors, they give you a stack of fries along side, add some soup and there’s enough for two.

                                                           

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                                                                                                    We had one more stop to make before heading home, Rocky Peanut on Russell. Established in 1969 in Historic Eastern Market this family business is known for, you guessed it, fresh roasted peanuts. They purchase their nuts directly from the growers  and then roast and season them in a number of different ways, each being fresh and delicious. Stop in and have a look around, besides nuts they sell many items in bulk; spices, dried fruit, grains, and baking supplies. The most popular section has to be the bulk candy area; from the old favorite Swedish fish, giant jaw breakers, Hershey kisses, to retro favorites like Bit-O-Honey, no wonder sweet-tooth’s flock here. Recently added is a section of specialty made in Michigan products, I highly recommend Brownwood Farms Cherry Honey Mustard; great for dipping pretzels, but you have to try it on a sandwich! Whether your looking for an old favorite like Bosco, or you need a pinch of that seldom used spice you can find it at Rocky’s.

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DETROIT: Model T’s, BBQ & Beer

28 Oct

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Detroit has an impressive industrial history; from building ships and trains to stoves and of course, the automobile. The Ford Piquette Avenue Plant  built in 1904, is a City, State and Federal Historic Site and a National Historic Landmark. It is significant for several reasons; Here the Model T was designed and the first 12,000 plus produced, Ford Motor Company set the world production record by assembling 101 Model N’s, R’s and S’s in 1908 in a ten hour day, and this building is where the methods and ideas came about that would become the moving assembly line.The museum points out the importance of the building and the magnitude of what went on here and how it shaped history. The structure itself is over 67,000 square feet, there are three floors and 362 of the original 395 original windows are still in place. Ford did everything here from the drafting to the assembly.

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Start your tour on the second floor at the admissions desk; Guided tours are available or you you can grab a self-tour guide from the desk. View the video to put you in the mindset of Detroit 1904-1910. If you do the self guided tour be sure and read the information packet provided to fully understand the building and what went on here. I really like coming here, I think it’s so cool to be standing on the same floor as the likes of Henry Ford, James Couzens, John and Horace Dodge, William Durant and so many others once did. There are beautifully restored cars on display, they are all on loan, so you’re never sure what you will see that day. Check out the 2004 Ford GT, this is the actual car that set the world’s speed record that year. The museum makes changes through the season with different exhibits, they had just taken down the Fashion and the Automobile exhibit, we were disappointed we missed it. There is always something new in the works currently volunteers are reconstructing the Experimental Room exhibit, and a new Ford dealership exhibit will be installed soon. Two floors are open for you to wander through, it’s really fascinating and it’s the only early automotive factory in Detroit that is well preserved and open to the public. The museum closes for the winter, but you have until November 20th to visit.

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The sun was out and the temperature was pleasant enough to eat outdoors, so we drove over to Slows-to-go on Cass Ave for lunch. With the popularity of their Michigan Ave location and subsequent crowds this gives us hungry diners another option. With their recently installed outdoor wooden tables and benches you can eat right there if you wish. The menu is the same, as is the unbelievably delicious food.I highly recommend the Reason; tender and moist pulled pork piled high on Texas toast, topped with cole slaw and dill pickle strips, yum! The Mac & Cheese is always a good choice for a side, creamy sauce with a hint of heat, we ordered a side of potato salad too, good stuff!  I know it sounds crazy, but every time I eat here I am amazed at how delectable everything is. It was great to be sitting outside in October enjoying a scrumptious meal.

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For the last 5 Sunday’s the West Village neighborhood has opened a “Pop-Up” Biergarten called Tashmoo. Located on Van Dyke and occupying 2 empty lots it has been wildly successful. We finally had the opportunity to check it out, I’m so glad we did. As we drove down the residential area of Van Dyke, we knew we were getting close when we started seeing all of the cars parked alongside the street. What a perfect setting on a glorious Fall day; Mature trees line the street, beautiful homes grace the neighborhood, and a slight chill in the air. As you approach the fenced in lots the name Tashmoo is called out in bright red letters across the front, a series if patio stones lead you to the entrance where you must show your ID and receive one of those paper bracelets if you are going to drink beer.

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It was well organized, after you put on your bracelet proceed to the ticket table, tickets are $2 each, you trade them in to the bartender for a glass of your choice of several Michigan beers, easy. It was late afternoon and the Lions were playing at home, we made the right decision by going before the game let out. Tables and benches are made of 2×4’s, tables are topped with discarded doors, as is the bar itself. People were everywhere, communal tables were filled to capacity, dozens of folks were playing the Corn-Hole games, groups of friends were gathered together having a beer and catching up. We had our tickets in hand and made our way to the bar, thankfully the lines moved quickly. We tried the Founders Porter, and both found it enjoyable. What’s a Biergarten without food? No problem, there were two food booths; People’s Pierogi Collective was there serving up bite sized pierogi with your choice of Kraut, Potato or Sour Cherry filling, 3 for $5. We tried one of each, though all were delicious, I  was especially fond of the sour cherry. Corridor Sausage had their booth right next door and seemed to be very popular, offering a variety of sausages with unique toppings and meat and cheese plates that paired perfectly with your favorite beer. 

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This was my first Biergarten experience so I wasn’t sure what to expect, it was absolutely wonderful. The crowd was mellow, the name Tashmoo means “meeting place” and that’s exactly what it is; a place for friends to gather and a place where strangers sit down side by side and make new friends. Every age group was represented; toddlers sat on blankets atop the lush green grass, school age children tried their hand at Corn-Hole, and grown-ups played board games in the afternoon sun. This was the last Sunday for the season, I am already looking forward to next year.

             

Scenic back-roads: Ann Arbor to Hell

26 Oct

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 In Michigan you have to take advantage of every nice day that comes along, so when presented with a beautiful Autumn day jump in the car and take a drive. The Ann Arbor area has some of south eastern Michigan’s most scenic roads, so that’s where we headed.  First stop lunch. Located on S Division at Packard( Krazy Jim’s is now located at 304 S Ashley St) is a tiny unassuming little storefront with a bright red awning. You’d never know by looking at it that this place has been serving up some of the best burgers around since 1953. This is the home of Krazy Jim’s Blimpy Burger, the burgers have won numerous “best of” awards for years and was even featured on “Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives” back in 2008. There’s a reason for all of this attention: these guys know hot to make burgers, they even grind their own meat.

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There are certain rules to ordering here, which of course, we were not aware of. If you aren’t doing it right, they’ll let you know, and being a first-timer is no excuse. You order cafeteria style, each patron is give a tray that you slide along the counter, stopping at each station, or cook. First up, the fryer; what will it be? Fries, onion rings, or a pile of mixed veggies battered and deep fried. Next, tell them how many patties you’d like; 2, 3, 4, or 5, you must also choose your bun at this point. After that is your choice of grilled items, I went with onions, hot peppers, and mushrooms, the list of options is long and you have to think fast if you don’t want to be scorned. Cheese on your burger? Finally, choose your toppings, such as olives, tomatoes, or pickles, followed by condiments. Finally the whole burger is wrapped up in one of those wax paper sheets; the bun gets steamed from the warmth of the burger and the cheese gets gooey and slides out from under the bun. We took our tray loaded with 2 burgers, fries and a pile of veggies over to the window seats and dug in, now I know what all the fuss is about. We finished lunch and headed North on Main street to Huron River Drive , the road starts just as Main is merging onto M-14 , don’t blink or you’ll miss it .

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Huron River Drive is one of the prettiest roads around, it hugs a portion of  the Huron River as it twists and turns through 5 counties and 13 Metro Parks and State Recreation Areas. The river travels a total of 136 miles to the mouth of Lake Erie and is the only state designated scenic river in south east Michigan. We left downtown Ann Arbor and headed north west on Huron River Drive, the scenery is picturesque, especially this time of year. Canoes and kayaks paddle along the calm water, groups of cyclists hold tight to the shoulder as swans float along gracefully. Large windowed homes watch over the activity from their perch up on the hilltops. The view changes with each curve of the road and it’s wonderful. The speed limit is low, 35, and there are no stop signs in this section so you can truly enjoy the ecologically diverse surroundings. Huron River Drive ends in Dexter,  from there we hung a left, cut through town and continued on to Jenny’s Farm Market.

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Jenny’s has been one of our favorite places to visit in Autumn for years. You enter the market area through a covered patio, here you will find glass jars filled with items like sweet hot pickles, a variety of salsa’s, jams, pickled vegetables, maple syrup and apple butter. Walk up to the counter to purchase a gallon of cider and Jenny’s delicious pumpkin donuts, check out the homemade pies and pumpkin bread too. Make your way back outside to visit the animals; donkeys, horses, baby cows and goats all vie for your attention (well, ok they may be looking for food). The animals are friendly and you are close enough that you can pet them too, they’re all so cute. Other activities include a straw maze, hayrides and pony rides for kids, everyone seems to be enjoying themselves here. If you’re in need of decorative items for your home, look no further; cornstalks, mums, and of course an abundance of pumpkins are available.

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From the market we took lovely Dexter-Pinckney Road north; this stretch of road winds through the countryside passing small lakes, charming homes and marshy areas. We made our left on Darwin Road and knew we were going straight to Hell, Hell Michigan that is.  With a name like Hell you have to make the most of it, and the owners of Screams Ice Cream and Miniature Golf have done just that! Inside Screams every day is Halloween; decorations, costumes, and scary masks. There is also a great variety of “Hell” T-shirts, to let everyone know you’ve been to, well…..Hell. We passed on the ice cream and played miniature golf instead.  When it comes to miniature golf, except for the rare miracle shots where I have gotten a hole-in-one I suck, my husband on the other hand plays well, and always wins. The 18 hole course continues the campy Halloween/haunted theme, it is clever, and a lot of fun. Outside there are several large sheets of plywood painted with scenes and a devil or Big Foot with the face missing, just waiting for you to insert yours for those awesome souvenir photos. To one side of Screams runs Hell Creek where there is a small dam, the Dam Site Inn restaurant sits here in case get hungry on your travels. If you find yourself with nothing to do on a gorgeous Autumn day, go to Hell.

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