DETROIT: La Marche du Nain Rouge

10 Apr

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There is a tradition in Detroit that began over 300 years ago, it’s called La Marche du Nain Rouge. First, let me translate; La Nain Rouge is ‘The Red Dwarf’. This malicious spirit appears as a dwarf with glowing red eyes, rotting teeth, matted fur and contorted red features. Legend has it that the first sighting of Le Nain Rouge took place when the founder of Detroit, Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac, took a stroll with his wife just outside Fort Pontchartrain’s walls. Le Nain confronted Cadillac shrieking at him, in turn Cadillac drove La Nain off with his cane; in retaliation La Nain cursed Cadillac. Soon bad things began to happen to Cadillac; he was indicted on charges of illegal trafficking, he was removed from power. Cadillac’s fortunes were never the same, eventually he died while still trying to establish his land claims in Detroit. On March 23, 1710 the citizens of Fort Pontchartrain banned together to drive out the evil spirit; they organized the first march beginning at St Anne’s church and ending by driving La Nain into the river. 

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The annual tradition was revived three years ago with a few modern twists. When we found out about the parade I couldn’t wait to go; I wasn’t sure what to expect, which made it even more fun! The activities kicked off in the parking lot of Traffic Jam & Snug; there was a large group of folks already assembled when we arrived, a sea of red clothing and accessories.  At 1:00 La Nain arrived in all his gruesomeness; deep red coloring and over-sized fangs, creature-like hands and claws, even his voice was evil. He ascended high above the crowd  in the bucket of a cherry picker, raising a banner that read “I’m Back”. He exclaimed his desire to rule Detroit and continue the curse, which was met with boo’s and shouts from the crowd. . The master of ceremonies declared the start of La Marche; The Detroit Party Marching Band led the procession toward Masonic Temple where the march would conclude. Revelers fell in behind the band, we stood still off to one side to take it all in. Historical Detroit figures were well represented; Father Gabriel Richard, Pontiac, Pingree and Cadillac himself among others. There were chariots made of bicycles and cardboard, the most impressive was the quadracycle complete with a fire-breathing torch.  It’s a carnival-like atmosphere and anything goes; people are decked out in wigs, masks, fringe and capes. Some characters are recognizable; we saw Big Boy, the Kales Building and Richard Nixon doing the Hula-Hoop! Creativity abounds, from knee-high fur boots and jester caps to alien costumes and stilts. Some participants march in groups;  “Mustaches Against La Nain” was well represented along with a consort of horse-head wearing individuals. The day was unusually warm for March 25, which made it all the more pleasant to be outdoors traversing the streets of the city. 

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At last we arrived at the steps of the Masonic Temple only to find La Nain at the top of the stairs; a banner declaring La Nain for Emergency Manager hung from the building. I couldn’t help but laugh out loud at the sight of it, La Nain had thought of everything…….What he didn’t count on was the spirit and unity of those gathered to drive La Nain from the city and rid Detroit of its woes. One by one, members of the crowd climbed to the top of the steps declaring their commitment to Detroit and the banishing of La Nain, until at last La Nain was gone. A Celebration ensued; music, dance and laughter filled Temple Street. The party was moved indoors via tunnel to the Fountain Ballroom, here the festivities continued. The Marching Band continued to play, food was available from Slows-to-Go along with a variety of adult beverages. The Fountain Ballroom is cool; a sunken dance floor with large decorative columns fill most of the space, the walls are adorned with decorative panels, a balcony of sorts surrounds three sides of the room. When we got inside the place was packed, we enjoyed the festivities for awhile but the lines for food and drink were long. Our stomachs were not that patient, so we headed elsewhere.

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In a normal Michigan March you would be hard pressed to find outdoor seating at a restaurant, but this was no normal Michigan winter. Kris recalled seeing patio seating at Los Galanes in Mexicantown, so that’s where we went. Located on Bagley at 23rd Street Armando Galan and his family (Los Galanes) have made the restaurant into a popular destination. Most people recognize the restaurant by the large, colorful mural painted on the back of the building. When we arrived we were glad to see an open table on the patio, you can’t sit indoors on a day as beautiful as this! The patio is quite lovely; dangling white lights hang from wrought iron arches, plants already filled the window boxes with spring color. Chips and salsa arrived immediately, we ate as we decided what to order for lunch. We find we enjoy the combination plates the best; a taco, enchilada, burrito and tostada, it’s nice to try several different things. We also ordered the Chiles Rellenos; poblano peppers breaded and filled with cheese, topped with a rancherito sauce, they were delicious!  It was another wonderful day in Detroit.

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DETROIT: We got old stuff…..

4 Apr

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There’s something really fascinating about browsing through an antique shop. When I was growing up my parents would take me to flea markets and antique stores, I’d watch their faces light up at the sight of certain items, which often had a story to go with them.Through the years Kris and I have probably visited hundreds of different shops throughout the Midwest and beyond. We never tire of  the adventure of it; seeing the glasses we drank out of at my grandma’s house, the same cookie jar my favorite aunt had on the counter, the rocking chair that resembles the one my mother rocked me in, the bicycle he always wanted but his parents didn’t buy. Now we are the ones smiling and sharing a memory. I reluctantly admit, I have reached the age where I recognize far too many things. It still surprises me when I see things from my own childhood labeled as “antiques”. You never know what you will find, and that’s what makes it so much fun!

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Detroit has plenty great shops; our first stop was at Eastern Market Antiques right there in the market. This 2-story building has about 15,000 square feet of antique, vintage and retro items. Individual dealers each have a given amount of space to display their pieces; some are arranged as individual rooms while others have things arranged on shelves and tables. Furniture, artwork, and lighting are prevalent, funky pieces like a dryer chair, globes and typewriters join the mix. Vintage jewelry, hats, suitcases and dishes add to the variety. There’s something different each time we come, which keeps it interesting. You don’t have to be a collector to enjoy a visit an antique store.

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We cut through Eastern Market on the way to our next stop. Passing through Shed 2, where the gourmet food vendors are located, we noticed a new booth: Ethel’s Edibles. On the table were beautifully packaged Gluten-Free goodies, oh, and bite-sized samples too. I had the Blondie, Kris the Pecan Dandy bar, one look at his face and I grabbed a sample of the Pecan Dandy for myself. It is absolutely the best pecan bar I have EVER had, seriously, you have to try one of these. I would also like to point out the Blondie was quite  incredible too. I can only imagine how happy those who eat gluten-free must be thanks to Ethel’s. With Pecan Dandy in hand we crossed Russell St to try out Germack’s new coffee shop. Residing in the space formerly occupied by Rafal Spice, the coffee shop is a great addition to the market. They did a marvelous job giving the space a real urban feel; brick walls, exposed beam ceiling, indirect lighting and concrete floors. The menu is posted on chalkboard slats: Drip Coffee, Espresso, French Press and Pour Over; all roasted in-house. We placed our order at the counter, glass containers offered sweet treats and a small variety of Detroit’s own Dutch Girl Donuts. While our drinks were prepared we wandered around the store, lots of yummy things on the shelves; from jams and spices to candy and sauces. We drank our delicious coffees seated at the counter watching foot traffic from the market come and go.   Next door is Germack’s new location where you can still purchase all your favorite products like pistachio’s, nut mixes and nut butters.

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Marketplace Antiques Gallery is an unassuming storefront on Gratiot just around the corner from the market. The outside gives little indication of what you will find inside; an incredible array of gorgeous antiques. The pieces here are in perfect to near perfect condition, the collection spans the last century. It’s almost like a museum, except you can actually purchase the items and enjoy them in your own home.  Walls are adorned with paintings, sconces and decorative mirrors. Ginger jars rest atop ornate buffets, art deco and Victorian pieces co-exist on a china cabinet shelf. Chandeliers, oriental rugs and an impressive collection of mid-century modern objects can be found here. It’s worth a visit just to have a look at such beautiful things.

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Jacoby’s German Biergarten has been around since 1904, so it seemed the obvious place to go after spending the day in antique shops. The restaurant stayed in the Jacoby family from 1904 to 1995, the current owner purchased it in 2006. Adorned with window boxes, the exterior of the building is charming; the large vertical  sign out front welcomes you. The inside doesn’t seem to have change much over the years; the original tin ceiling and woodwork give the place a bit of an old world feeling. Pictures of the Jacoby family and newspaper articles hang on the wall. The menu is mainly German dishes but also offers a nice sandwich selection. We ordered the Jaeger Schnitzle with sides of red cabbage,potato pancakes, sauerkraut, and spaetzle, all were very good. 

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We had one more store to visit, Detroit Antiques Mall located on the service drive of the Fisher Freeway. When you get to the door you will have to be buzzed in, once inside you are free to wander. Items here range from antique to quirky, they have a bit of everything. If you are looking for things like doorknobs and hinges, windows and doors, this is a great place to start. The second floor is devoted mostly to architectural salvage items. I love these kinds of stores because each time you come there is something new to see. Next time you’re in the mood to do a little window shopping check out one or all of these marvelous shops.

 

DETROIT: Dinner & A Show

2 Apr

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Detroit is home to a fantastic array of wonderful restaurants, how lucky are we? Every once in a while it’s nice to splurge and visit one of the high-end places, which is exactly what we did on a balmy March evening.  Opus One resides on Larned Street, in what was once an old Taxi garage, you’d never know it by looking at the place! Opened in 1986 by third generation restaurateur Jim Kokas, the quality of the food and service is definitely upscale. We arrived just in time for our 6pm reservation, the Bistro Bar was busy with the after work crowd. Here you can enjoy a delicious meal in an informal setting, or simply have a drink while watching the game. We sat in the swanky dining room; cloth tablecloths, white napkins and candles dress each table, soft lighting and warm tones set the relaxing mood. Our servers were friendly and attentive, rattling off a list of mouth-watering specials. We started with the Chilled Quinoa and Avocado Salad, absolutely scrumptious. I chose the Baked Pinwheel of Norwegian Salmon with spinach and Brie, served with haricot verts and rice with a Buerre Blanc sauce, it was amazing!  Kris ordered the Opus One “All Day” Blueberry Braised Beef; served with cheddar mashed potatoes and haricot verts with roasted corn, it looked delectable. The beef was melt-in-your-mouth tender and a nice portion too. Opus One is also known for their dessert cart, yes, cart not tray. I saw it go by several times and could barely tear my eyes away from it, but after that incredible meal, we just couldn’t do it. There’s always next time! 

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If you like theatre, there is an endless variety of choices in Detroit; from professional and touring companies to local talent, a show is just a ticket away. Since 1963 Wayne State University’s Hillberry Theatre has been the home of the first and only graduate repertory theatre company in the country. From October to mid-May the company performs six classic and modern plays in rotating repertory. They do everything from acting and costume design to lighting, set design and theatre management. All of this takes place in the former First Church Of Christ Scientist, located on Cass Ave in the heart of the WSU campus.Tonight’s show was  Summer and Smoke, I am a big Tennessee Williams fan, so I was looking forward to the production.We entered the theatre itself to locate our seats, pausing at the back to look at the set. The scenery captures the setting of 1916 Mississippi; for this production all activity takes place in two rooms, side by side sections of Alma’s home and Johnny’s office.The story of Summer and Smoke captures all of the Tennessee Williams nuances that I love, his work is timeless. The actors vividly bring the characters to life, we are able to feel their joy and frustration, their pain and finally their resolution. 


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It was late, but we thought we’d make one more stop before calling it a night. Still full from dinner, a nightcap seemed like a good idea. There is always a bar open somewhere in Hamtramck, the only hard part is choosing one. As we drove down Joseph Campau we noticed an open parking space right in front of 7 Brothers, decision made. We have been here before and love the vintage bar, so it’s always fun to come back. 7 Brothers is in a shotgun style building; long and narrow, with Bar only seating. It’s everything you could want in a “dive bar” without the Dive Bar prices….. Entertainment consists of a Jukebox, pool table and dart machine, and they only accept CASH. Owned since 1977 by a man named George, it is not unusual to find him sitting at the bar as he was on this night.  Curious, we asked the age of the Bar (not the building) and were told it went back to pre-prohibition days. Behind the bar is one of those gorgeous wood bar cabinets, the kind with the mirrors and shelves to hold all of the liquor, it looks to be from the 30’s or 40’s. The opposing wall is plastered with headshots of actors both local and famous, this is a popular hang-out for thespians from Planet Ant and beyond. The atmosphere is casual and relaxed, fellow patrons were friendly and talkative, a nice way to end the evening. 

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The city is always full of things to see and do, all you have to do is look!

DETROIT: The Wright Museum

28 Mar

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The Charles H Wright Museum of African-American History is the world’s largest institution dedicated to the African-American experience. Having said that,  I’d like to add, it’s a wonderful museum to visit.  Whichever door you enter, you will find yourself in the Ford Freedom Rotunda. Here the wide open space if filled with light pouring in through the glass dome, at 100 feet in diameter  and 65 feet in height, it is impressive. On the floor of the rotunda is the Ring Of Genealogy; designed by Hubert Massey the piece depicts the struggles of African-Americans in this country. Bronze nameplates of prominent citizens surround the piece, each year new names are added to the Ring. The museum is named for founder Dr Charles H Wright, an obstetrician and gynecologist who practiced in Detroit from 1946-1950 and again from 1955-1986.

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The heart of the museum is “And Still We Rise: Our Journey Through African-American History and Culture”.  The exhibits are laid out in time-line fashion; beginning in Africa with the birth of mankind,then we get a look into ancient and early modern civilization. Beautiful dress and artwork fill displays. From there we start an eerie, haunting trip, the treacherous journey across the ocean, where men and women were transported from their independence into slavery.The ship exhibit demonstrates a small  glimpse of the suffering  that was endured; a moving and at times uncomfortable experience for museum-goers. Continuing forward in time through the days of the underground railroad, up to emancipation. In the end  we are able to celebrate the freedom and success of past and present-day Detroiters.  The building is also home to  the General Motors Theater which hosts live performances, films and lectures. Located in Detroit’s Cultural Center it is one of many great things to do in the area.

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 When Slow’s Bar B Q opened in the shadows of the old train station it seemed an unlikely location for success; they had the guts to take a chance and it has paid off bigger than I think they even imagined. They have paved the way for other fledgling businesses such as Astro Coffee and Sugar House, and all are reaping the rewards. Suddenly this little stretch of Michigan Avenue has come alive. We have been patiently awaiting the opening of Mercury Burger Bar across the street from Slow’s; alas our wait is over!The building is named after the Mercury Train which ran from New York to Detroit and then Chicago in the 1930’s and 40’s. It’s latest incarnation serves burgers, hand-cut fries, grilled bologna sandwiches, milkshakes, and yes, cocktails.

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Situated on a corner lot the building is odd-shaped; very narrow at the entrance and growing wider toward the back. The bar reflects this shape and is at the center of the dining room; aluminum tables and chairs line the windowed walls, red vinyl dresses up the booths. To the left hangs a large mural created by Detroit’s own Jerome Feretti. Play a game of seek and find as you look at the colorful piece; the Penobscot building, ren cen, sails of a tall ship, all play homage to the city. On the back wall a large image of a Mercury automobile grill livens up the space. Then there’s the food; you can’t go wrong with a good burger, and they have plenty to choose from. I had the turkey burger, tender and moist, good toppings, it was delicious. Kris went with the Local, it seemed to have a bit of everything piled high on top, also delicious. The fries are heavenly; fresh-cut, fried to a perfect crisp and seasoned with sea salt and pepper, I could have eaten the entire basket myself! They were doing a swift business this afternoon, it seems the good word is out. Next time you have a burger craving, give Mercury a try.

DETROIT:The Historic Players Club

23 Mar

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We’ve been passing by this place forever,the lovely brown brick building with the tile roof, wondering what secrets it holds inside; a Detroit gem we’ve always wanted to see.  A plaque hangs above the door that  reads “Nunquam Renig”, carved in stone above the door is “The Players”.  We heard it was a Members Only, “what happens at the players, stays at the players” kind of place. It was truly serendipity when Kris noticed the ad for a St Patrick’s Day Eve concert. The Players was open to the public, we’re so there…..

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First a little background: The Players Club was founded in 1910 as a gentleman’s club. Their official purpose is to encourage amateur theater; from acting and writing to set design and building. Their theatre season runs from October to April; on the first Saturday of the month members perform 3 one-act plays at what is called a “frolic”. Performances are all done by members for members. In 1925 the club was able to construct their very own home, the “Beautiful Lady” known as the Playhouse. Member/architect William Kapp designed the Playhouse, and Oh! What a magnificent job he did.
We arrived at 7pm, just as the doors were opening. We took our time admiring the outside of the building; designed in the Florentine Renaissance Style, leaded glass windows are accentuated by stone blocks. Large wood entry doors are surrounded by smooth stone, it appears quaint, like something from another time. And then we went inside……As wonderful as I had imagined it would be, didn’t even come close to how wonderful it is. I felt like I had just stumbled upon a castle; lots of brick and stone, thick wooden beams and wrought iron, a winding staircase lurks to the left. So much to investigate, where to start? We were warmly greeted by members who offered a guided tour before the show started, perfect! We began by ascending the stairs; thick rope strung through wall mounted rings serve as a railing, framed caricatures commemorating each performance hang on the wall. The higher you climb, the more narrow the stairs. At the top a knight in shining armor greets your arrival. The second floor is home to the Founders Room, used as a formal meeting room, an uninterrupted chain of photos of club presidents wrap around the room. A large fireplace anchors one wall; wood plank floors, leather couches and a baby grand piano make the space warm and inviting. When you become a member you are given a mug with your name and the year you joined; they are stored in cabinets in this room. When a member has passed away a black ribbon is placed on the mug. While upstairs we were shown to the recently restored balcony; the view of the theatre from up here is fantastic! The floor plan of the room is laid out before you, the theatre can be taken in as a whole, it’s striking. Aaahhhh, then there’s the ceiling; a beautiful timber structure, dark stain brought to life with richly colored stencils, it’s spectacular.

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On the way back down I was able to take in more details; the ceiling is painted in a reproduction of a night sky, light shone through stained glass windows.We grabbed ourselves some Porter, with glass in hand we proceeded to our table for the evening. I sat in awe while Kris took photos; vintage 1920’s murals hang in the stone archways that line the two side walls, painted by Paul Honore they depict a traveling group of troubadours. The colors are bright, the scenes eye-catching. The columns that divide the archways are capped with decoratively carved capitals. Above, eight smaller banners represent the skills and trades needed to stage a theatrical production. And of course, if you look all the way up there’s that ceiling again. Small details are everywhere you look. With a little time for more exploration we went behind-the-scenes so to speak and took a peek at the dressing rooms and storage rooms. The hallway is narrow and line with more caricatures, these went back even further to like the 40’s. It is interesting to note the difference in style from artist to artist (some you may even recognize) and decade to decade. With the show about to begin we took our seats, we had a great view of the stage.

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The Balduck Mountain Ramblers were introduced and the music began, almost as quickly my toe started tapping. In the spirit of St Patrick’s Day the songs were distinctly Irish, the five member band was extraordinarily entertaining. It was obvious many in the crowd had seen them before, they knew the audience participation parts by heart. During the intermission a light dinner of corned beef sandwiches, chips and pickles was served. The second half of the show began, there was light banter between the band and audience, everybody was having a good time. For a time I felt as if I was actually in a castle in Ireland, listening to songs native to the country, played on traditional instruments, in this most astonishing building. The evening passed much too quickly. 

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Not ready to go home yet, we took a drive over to Corktown for a nightcap. Sugar House on Michigan Ave occupies a beautifully restored space in a century old building. The decor and menu are a throw-back to a pre-prohibition era; classic cocktails are jazzed up with homemade syrups and freshly squeezed juices. The menu changes seasonably and also offers a large selection of international beer and organic wine. It was an exceptionally warm March evening, so the door remained open. The softly lit room portrays a by-gone elegant style; exposed brick walls, brass chandeliers. We chose cocktails off the spring menu; a Johnny Rottenseed for Kris and a Black Palm for myself. The list of ingredients is long and seemingly complicated, but the end result is awesome! It was the perfect ending to an ideal evening. 

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Daytrip: Flint

18 Mar

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I have always had a soft spot for the underdog, which is part of the reason I like  Flint. The city has more going for it than you may have imagined; Great museums, delicious food, and a fascinating history. Don’t look now but downtown is starting to make a comeback too! Did you know the first completed production Corvette rolled off the Flint assembly line in 1953? It was one of 300 hand-assembled ‘Vettes made that year. The 1950’s and 60’s  were the height of the city’s  prosperity and population. The economic and industrial struggles the nation faced through the years were even more magnified in this auto producing town. Today you will find new life in long standing neighborhoods and institutions, and a breath of fresh air sweeping into the city.

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It has been a while since we were at a farmers market; the sky was clear and blue, the sun was shining, what better time to drive out to the Flint Farmers Market?This year-round public building was built in 1940 by WPA workers, it has been a vital part of the community ever since. During the summer there are all sorts of vendors outdoors, this time of year it is mostly contained indoors. As you would expect you’ll find produce, meat, poultry, breads and baked goods. I love the initial scent as I walk into a market, it’s always a wonderful mix of aromas! The building is laid out in one long aisle from end to end, a wine shop caps off one of the ends. d’vine Wines has a generous variety of wines both local and international, along with beer and even dairy items from the ever popular Calder Dairy. 

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We strolled the main aisle, up one side and down the other; spices, jams, dips and cut fruit all available to sample. Ethnic groceries, cool looking sea salt, deli sandwiches fresh cider mill style donuts and hot coffee all beckon to be purchased. The cheese vendor has an especially large variety to choose from, Kris picked one out and we got a chunk to eat while we walked. Upstairs is home to an art gallery; jewelry, ceramics, photographs, and paintings fill the display. Across the hall is a restaurant called Steady Eddy’s Cafe, this place is always packed, today was no exception. Serving breakfast and lunch the menu leans towards vegetarian and vegan selections, they also have homemade soups daily. Satisfied with our market stop it was time to move on.

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If you’ve never been to the Flint Institute of Arts, put it on your to-do list, this is a terrific museum. The museum itself is 150,000 sq ft with 25,000 sq ft of gallery space. The building also houses a cafe, gift shop, art school, library and theater. We were there on a Target Free Saturday, so there was no admission fee; good to keep in mind. We have been here many times and still my favorite space is the Viola E Bray Renaissance Gallery, it is superb! The gallery itself was built for a single purpose: to display the 60 Renaissance and Baroque items donated by Mrs. Bray. The most exquisite being a collection of  10 tapestries made in France in the 17th Century. The tapestries represent the legend of Rinaldo and Armida as told in Jerusalem Delivered, a poem by Torquato Tasso. One of the gallery volunteers told us  that it is quite unusual for anyone to hold a complete set of tapestries. Not only did Mrs Bray donate the items, she also donated the money to build the gallery; it is elegant, ornate, magnificent. Floors are marble, the ceiling coffered, reflecting true renaissance style. The tapestries themselves are made of wool and silk, take a close look; the borders are filled with symbols such as laurel wreaths, Mercury, Urania, Justice and Victory; the detail is awe-inspiring.  Don’t miss the Decorative Arts Gallery, they have a sensational collection of glass paperweights. With the recent expansion the layout guides you easily from gallery to gallery; painted in bold colors such as berry, Celadon and bright yellow, the artwork really stands out. You could easily pass a couple of hours traversing the space.

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On the drive up we had decided to have lunch at Hoffman’s Deco Deli located inside the Carriage Town Antique Center. First we would eat, then we would browse. Being a deli they have a wide variety of sandwiches to choose from along with wraps, salads and gourmet coffee. A large chalk board hangs on the wall; Items are written in colored chalk giving a full description. We picked the Super Veggie sandwich on whole grain bread, the Farmers Market Salad and a side of the southwest barley salad. Place your order at the counter then take a seat at one of the tables in the dining room or a high-top by the window. The building itself is a restored Art Deco warehouse, the interior of the deli is decorated with funky objects, it’s always fun to look around. Our lunch arrived quickly, which was good because we were really hungry. Everything looked so good we didn’t know where to start! The sandwich was stacked high with avocado spread, feta, sprouts, onion, jalapeno, bell pepper, cucumber, leaf lettuce and tomato with a bit of veggie seasoning, delicious. The salad is a bit unusual in that a drizzle of BBQ sauce serves as the dressing; it works well with the other ingredients such as chicken and crumbled bacon, definitely a winner. The barley salad added  a bit of spice to the meal and was a nice change from pasta salad.When we’d had our fill we walked through to the antique center of the building, the pieces here are in good condition. Items run the gamut from antique china cabinets, loads of colored glass and pottery to vintage clothing, period lighting and Christmas items on the second floor. There are shelves and glass cases filled with beautiful items from days gone by. Vintage collectibles rest side by side with period furniture, heirloom jewelry and an antique organ. It’s a great shop with an ever-changing inventory. 

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We enjoyed the time we spent in Flint, there are many more things to see and do, but they will have to wait until next time. If you’re looking for a change of pace give Flint a try, I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

 

All Aboard! Destination Holly

13 Mar

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The Village of Holly is located in the northwest corner of Oakland County. Primarily known for the Michigan Renaissance festival and the Annual Dickens festival, this town has plenty to offer year-round. Saginaw Street is the main street through the village, and what a charming one it is; Victorian-style red brick buildings line the sidewalk,  indeed the city looks straight out of Dickens. The town’s personality has changed throughout the years; good things are happening, new businesses are moving in and people are coming to Holly to shop, eat and have a good time.

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The Detroit Model Railroad Club is located in the old theater on Saginaw, they were having an open house so we thought we’d check it out. Wow, what an amazing set-up! The railroad is 1/4″ to the foot, referred to as “0” scale among railroaders. In layman terms that means that the model of a 40 foot long boxcar will be 10 inches long. The amazing display depicts the fictitious Detroit Union Railroad, a freelance double track line running from Detroit to Dorrance MI. The detail is captivating; a downtown complete with hotel, gas station and train station. Tiny figures wait for long silver passenger trains,  others stroll past minuscule buildings. Vintage passenger cars, buses and taxi’s are at the ready to take the townsfolk where they need to go. Mini street lamps and billboards complete the scene. Trains travel from the city to the country and into the mountains, I counted four levels of tracks. The scenery is beautiful; bridges cross over a river, tunnels cut through the jagged rocks. Signs of life in the country include cabins, wells with diminutive red pumps and horses. You have to look closely, but there is something going on everywhere; a truck that lost a load of tires, policemen chasing down a bad guy. And of course, the trains! It’s very relaxing to watch their travel, notice how they slow down as they go up in elevation, they even sound cool. Check their website for open house dates.

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We stepped outside and headed south towards more shops and restaurants. We ducked into the boutique right on the corner called My Sweet Holly, in addition to home goods they have a large selection of Made In Detroit merchandise. A few doors down is one of the newer stores called Great Lakes Marketplace. A Made In Michigan grocery store featuring; Guernsey Ice Cream, Sanders, American Spoon, Cherry Republic, and loads of other food products, both big name and independents, native to the mitten state. When we came in the door a cheerful woman was handing out samples of her homemade candy, the dark chocolate espresso crunch was to die for! (I couldn’t leave the store without buying some….) Up front you can order an espresso drink or a double dip of your favorite ice cream. It was cool to see so many locally produced food items in one place. I am told beer and wine will be stocked soon! At the back of the store is a hallway connecting to the Great Lakes Artisan Village. What a marvelous find! Here you can purchase artwork crafted by Michigan artists, often using a Michigan product. They have a little bit of everything here; gorgeous jewelry, funky birdhouses, watercolor paintings and folk-art. A nice selection of books written by Michigan authors, intricate woodwork and sculptures for indoors or out are found throughout the space. If you’re looking for something unique, chances are you’ll find something here. The back of the store has been turned into a mini theater; on weekends they offer Movies In The Village featuring silver screen classics. What a fun idea! Most of the shops interiors retain their historic charm; some have exposed brick walls and wooden floors, most have tin ceilings, it really adds character.

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 We crossed Saginaw St to Bittersweet Cafe to catch some lunch. We had become quite hungry from shopping and staring at all the different food products at the marketplace. As we looked over the menu it was easy to be distracted by plates of mouth-watering food passing by. Finally a decision was made; the Vintage Pastrami sandwich and a Maurice Salad. The restaurant has classic Victorian appeal, again complete with an ornate tin ceiling. Up by the register is a glass case filled with scrumptious looking desserts. Passerby’s stop in for a coffee to go and linger over the selection. Our food arrived; the salad was a very generous size. Mixed greens with chopped turkey, ham and swiss, I liked the addition of black olives. The dressing was homemade and excellent. The sandwich was served on grilled pumpernickel bread; two slices filled with thinly sliced pastrami, swiss cheese, red onion and pepperoncini topped off with a creamy horseradish sauce, yum! We enjoyed our time in Holly and are already planning a return trip to visit their array of antique shops and other stores. I just may have to have more of that dark chocolate too….

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Next time you’re in the mood to visit a quaint little town with pretty streetscapes, good restaurants, and great shopping, head on over to Holly.

DETROIT: Autorama; Customs, Candy and Chrome

9 Mar

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Detroiter’s have had a long-standing love affair with the automobile, this has always been and probably always will be a car town.  Every winter for the last 60 years hundreds of custom vintage vehicles roll into town showing off the final results of time, labor and money…….lots of money. This my friends is what we call Autorama! The Michigan Hot Rod Association held the first Autorama as a way to raise money to build a local drag strip, the show took place at the U of D Field-house with 50 cars.  In 1956 the club hired Don Ridler, a professional promotions agent, the show took off from there. Don brought in musical acts and bands such as Bobby Rydell, the Big Bopper and Mitch Ryder. Celebrities such as Adam West, Wolfman Jack and William Shatner made appearances along with wrestlers, Tigers and Red Wings. It was always the cars that were the real stars of the event. After moving to various locations through the years, Autorama found a permanent home at Cobo Hall in 1961. Don Ridler died an untimely death in 1963, thus the Don Ridler Memorial Award was created, honoring the “Best In Show”. This is the most prestigious award on the show circuit, 2012 marked the 49th Ridler award; the winner, Dwayne Peace took the trophy and a check for $10,000 for his 1955 Ford T-Bird. 

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I have been coming to the show for years, I think Kris has been coming since before he could spell C A R. My perspective is that of an admirer of the time and hard work, beauty and creativity these folks put into their cars, the end result is astounding. I am always taken aback walking into Cobo, the show is enormous. Fresh paint  glows under bright lights, chrome is polished to a high shine, proud owners display photo albums taking you through the restoration process. Row after row of custom paint jobs; metalflake is one of my favorites. Painters rule; from stripes and flames to flip-flop colors and original artwork the cars themselves are unique pieces of art. Interiors get a makeover too; upholstery comes in all colors and fabrics here, so much more fun than the gray of today’s cars. Some of the cars start out life as one kind of car, after a body man has had his way, it takes on a completely different appearance. For example, a hard top may now be a convertible, several feet of length may be eliminated, grills, hoods and taillights may be exchanged for something completely different. What I love about Autorama is that individuality is encouraged, and even rewarded. The funkiest ones get the most attention! Someone even made a watermelon themed  pickup truck…… They painted the outside watermelon green, the interior is well, watermelon pink,  didn’t miss a detail, the engine compartment even had a watermelon in it. 

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I walk the aisles in awe of the men and women who take on such a project, the cars are beautiful. Often mirrors are strategically placed on the floor reflecting the underside of the vehicle. Oh, and the engines! From stock to high performance everything is finely detailed; color keyed pieces, braided fuel lines and chrome valve covers. Speaking of chrome, here it reigns supremely; Grills, bumpers, moldings, pipes and wheels, a chrome polish salesman’s dream come true.  The same cannot be said for the lower level of the show. The basement showcases what are known as “Rat Rods”. These are the vehicles you will often see in primer; vintage pick-up trucks, street rods and lowered sedans, they have an appeal all their own. It surprises me how much money can be spent on something you want to look like no money was spent on it. I especially like the really old ones that have some sort of artwork on the door, or the name of the company that owned the truck, with just enough paint left of the lettering that you can barely make it out, I think it’s cool!  This year there were about 1000 cars on display, I heard attendance for the weekend was 151,000 people; I’m  not surprised, after all, this is the Motor City.

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Click here for more cool car photos.

We weren’t sure where we were going  for lunch, when we walked back to the car from Cobo we saw Finn & Porter about 100 feet up on the left, perfect! Located in the lobby of the Double Tree hotel, Finn & Porter offers 2 dining spaces, the main dining room is not open for lunch, so we ate at the Finn & Porter Round Bar. We were seated at a table by the window, I love that.  The room is contemporary in decor, lots of windows on two sides give you a front-row seat to the happenings on the street. We had just missed the Soul food buffet, served from 12-2, so we ordered off the menu. With lots of good sounding items we decided on the Baby Iceberg Salad: a wedge of iceberg lettuce , diced red onion, crumbled apple-wood smoked bacon, blue cheese crumbles topped with a green goddess dressing, delicious.  The Italian Panini  was filled with thinly sliced meats, yellow peppers and tomato, the bread was grilled perfectly giving it a nice crunch. Home made potato chips served alongside were excellent. 

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Bear Claw Coffee is located in the lobby of the hotel, we stopped in for a warm beverage before heading out into the cold and what had become snowy day.  With our drinks in hand we took a seat in the hotel lobby, the couches and chairs were very inviting. Hilton spent $90 million on the restoration of this hotel. Originally opened in 1917 it was known as the Pick-Fort Shelby Hotel. In 1927 the hotel expanded adding a 22-story tower designed by (you know who..) Albert Kahn. The hotel was one of Detroit’s top luxury hotels back in the day, in 1983 it was placed on the National register of Historic Places.  One day I’d like to take a good look around the place, I’ve seen photos of a restored ballroom that were just stunning! We enjoyed our little respite, drinking our coffee and talking about our favorite cars. Even if you’re not a car lover give Autorama a try sometime. Celebrities, Pin-ups, toys and tools there’s something here for everyone. Great for a dose of nostalgia, art and design .

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Here and There in the Metro…

6 Mar

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It was one of those lazy Sunday mornings, our only concrete plan was to check out the Royal Oak Flea Market. Although the activity starts bright and early (8am), it goes on until 3pm, giving us plenty of time to get there and browse. You don’t have to be a collector to enjoy a visit to the flea market; contained in the building is a fascinating array of items both new and old. There are things to wear, books to read, toys that bring back memories. Stuff for your yard, gourmet caramel corn and a coffee stand, and that’s just the tip of the iceberg…..

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 We parked in the adjacent lot and took a look around at the outdoor items first, often this is where you will find the bigger items such as furniture. Inside a large array of tables await your arrival; set up into rows and aisles each flaunts it’s own unique display. There’s so much to see, it’s hard to know where to start; it’s  fun to look around, you never know what you might find. Creative types get clever with discarded items, making them into cool things such as lamps and birdhouses. Vintage toys are painted in primary colors and decorated with clown faces; noisemakers and horns look nearly new, I assume this is because at some point parents couldn’t take the commotion and hid them away. Jewelry abounds; watches, earrings, bracelets and rings; their age spans the decades. Camera’s, beer steins, record albums and signs, tea cups, sports cards, antique radios and colored glassware, what’s not to like? Each time you go the selection is a little different, but always worth the visit. 

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While Royal Oak certainly has an abundance of restaurants, today I had something different in mind. Loui’s Pizza in Hazel Park, located on Dequindre between 9 and 10 mile, is  just a short drive from Royal Oak. I grew up on “Detroit” style pizza; it’s square pizza that’s not too thick, and not too thin. The dough is flavorful, the edges are a little dark, and the crust has a distinct crunch, there’s nothing else like it! As you enter the unassuming building you are greeted by framed photos of famous people that have had the pleasure of eating here, there are reviews clipped from newspaper, and artwork done by Loui’s patrons. Step into the dining room and it seems as if you have been transported to a previous decade; the main color of the decor is dark pink…..in a good way…. A large square soffit, painted pink and dusted in glitter, hangs from the center of the dining room, dangling from the edges are empty straw-wrapped Chianti bottles. It is a tradition for customers to “autograph” the bottles and leave them to be hung up for display. Booths line the mirror covered walls, pink miniature lights hang in clusters against the mirrors intermixed with more bottles. The main dining area consists of tables that can easily be pulled together to accommodate large groups.  Probably the two most popular items are the pizza (of course) and the antipasto salad. The salad is served in large glass bowls; crisp iceberg lettuce is adorned with petite cubes of ham, salami, cheese and slices of tomatoes. Louis Tourtois Sr himself came up with the recipe for the house vinaigrette, tossed right into the salad it’s absolutely delicious! The pizza, well, what more can I add to what I’ve already said? Ours was perfectly cooked, slightly charred on the edges, loaded with delicious toppings, then topped off with a nice coating of tasty red sauce. A small is four pieces, there was none left to take home. Louis Sr, Jr, and the III have been serving up their own unique pizza’s for 35 years, if you’re like me, one taste and you’ll be hooked.

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If you’ve ever driven north on Mound Road at Chicago you may have noticed Kuhnhenn Brewing Company on the east side of the road. Originally Lutz Harware, the Kuhnhenn family decided to take a chance and turn it into a brewery when a large chain hardware store opened just a half mile away. Bret and Eric Kuhnhenn were no strangers to the brewing process; they had sold home brewing supplies for years out of their hardware store and were home brewers themselves. The space has been transformed into an 8-barrel micro-brewery and brew-on-premise shop and has earned a loyal following. It was my first visit, something I had been looking forward to for some time. I was surprised the space was so large, the bar takes center stage, high top tables fill the rest of the room. The “menu” is impressive, be sure to click on their link to see for yourself. I had planned on a glass of dark beer, but after the pizza a glass of wine sounded more appealing. I took my time perusing the menu, best known for their German style Hefeweizen, they have a long list of core beers in addition to seasonal brews. I had no idea they offered such a wide variety of wines; Fruit wines, Red, White and Sweet Wines, something for every taste. On our servers advice I had a glass of the Green Apple Riesling, it was excellent! Light and fresh tasting, with a hint of green apple, just what I was looking for. Kris went with the Creme Brulee Java Stout, WOW! is that good, next time I’ll get that. Pizza, cheese plates and Dan’s Sausage are also available. Kuhnhenn’s is a great place to hang out with a group of friends and enjoy some really wonderful beverages.

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DETROIT: Midtown Art

3 Mar

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With no real plan for the day we headed downtown, we know we can count on the city to provide us with interesting things to see and do. The Scarab Club hosted an opening reception the night before, so we thought it would be fun to see the latest exhibit. Located across John R from the DIA, the Scarab Club has been at this location since 1928. The structure itself is a combination of Italian Renaissance Revival and Arts and Crafts; dark brick, leaded glass windows, and painted tiles make for an attractive exterior. The entrance is on Farnsworth, once inside you go up a short flight of stairs to the first floor. This is the main exhibit space; stark white walls and ceiling are warmed by the hardwood floor, captivating art work hangs on the walls. This area hosts changing exhibits throughout the year. Up another flight of stairs to the second level lounge area. Though the space is large it feels cozy; dark wood walls and floors,  triple light fixtures give the room a golden glow. A large fireplace rests at the far end of the room with seating arranged  nearby. The most interesting feature of the room are the ceiling beams. Large wooden beams are decoratively painted referencing events that have taken place at the club. The sides of the wood are covered in signatures of club members, this tradition began in 1932 when Diego Rivera signed his name. Norman Rockwell followed in 1946, they are joined by many other noteworthy names such as: Elmore Leonard, Eliel Sarrinen, George Booth, Marshall Fredericks and Isamu Noguchi. Along with thought provoking art, the building itself is worth a visit; I love the sound of the creaking stairs as I step from level to level. The ceilings at the top of the stairs are decoratively painted in rich colors with gold leaf; gorgeous. Artist studios occupy the third floor, occasionally they are open to the public. The club hosts exhibitions, workshops and events for artists and art lovers alike.

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Just a short walk away is the College for Creative Studies’ Center Galleries, located inside the Manoogian Visual Resource Center. Here you will find art both traditional and cutting edge. Displays start as soon as you come in the door, the current exhibit is divided into different mediums: Glass, Sculpture, Illustration and Painting. The talent level is staggering, which is part of the reason the art scene in Detroit is so lively. The cool thing about this gallery is it really gives you a sense of what is going on in the world; from car design and furniture to new ways to package things, it’s like looking into the future.

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For the lunch portion of the day we continued the gallery theme and ate at Cass Cafe. A long-time neighborhood fixture, having a meal or a drink at Cass is like sitting in the center of an art gallery with table service. Exhibits change routinely and feature everything from local to nationally known artists. The front section of the restaurant offers seating at round multicolored tables with vintage style chairs, giving it a retro feel. A stairway leads to an upper level reserved for special events. The menu runs the gamut  from Asian chicken wings and a hummus plate to vegetarian lasagna and an Ahi Tuna steak. The crowd varies from Wayne State students to hipsters and suburbanites. Ordering was easy, I love the lentil walnut burger, paired with a large salad it’s enough for two. They make their own “veggie” burger here and it is way superior to store bought versions in flavor and texture, topped with some honey-mustard, delicious.

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The day was still young and I felt like doing a little shopping, fortunately a pair of unique boutiques reside just around the corner on W Canfield. City Bird has been around for just over two years now, the small space is packed tight with goodies from both local artists and designers and work from other Rust Belt cities. The variety is great; jewelry, clothing, bags, paper goods and accessories, many of them Detroit-themed. They even have a small section of vintage clothing. There’s something new each time I come in, so I always look forward to stopping by.

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Right next door is NEST, owned and operated by the same siblings as City Bird, this shop focuses mainly on housewares. The small modern storefront has plenty of appeal; items are artfully placed about on tables and shelves making you want to stop and look at everything. Just inside the door are dozens of glass balls hanging in front of the window, each one contains a tiny plant creating a kind of air terrarium. Stacks of plates and glassware rest on shelves, they have linens and candles too. My favorite find of the day was an ice cube tray that produces ice in the shape of both Michigan peninsulas, the tray is even produced in Michigan using Michigan materials, I love it!  Andy and Emily Linn have done a wonderful job with both places, it’s nice to see independent retail coming back into Detroit. Next time you are looking for a unique gift or just something for yourself be sure and visit.

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