Suburban Gems: Dodge Park Trails & Historic Utica

20 Jul

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Psssssssttt, I have a secret to tell you. There is a place you can go in Sterling Heights where there are no strip malls, Wal-Mart or traffic lights; a place where deer roam freely, the Clinton River runs clear and you can be at one with nature, it’s called Dodge Park. Actually, it is a series of parks that are linked together by bike paths and trails leading you from Sterling Heights to downtown Utica. If you have never visited these parks, wait no longer.

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We ride here often and like to begin at the start of the trail; Clinton River Park South.  Keep your eyes open; just west of Schoenherr on Clinton River Road you will come across Edison Court; at the end you’ll find the trail entrance. As soon as you begin pedaling on the asphalt path you are greeted with a sense of tranquility. It’s astounding how quickly you are immersed in nature; completely unaware of the hustle and bustle taking place outside the park boundaries; here you are literally in the woods. Pathways curve right and then left, a slight uphill and then back down. Before long the Clinton River appears on your left and the path now mimics its route. Squirrels jump from tree to tree, butterflies visit wildflowers while ducks float down the river. I like to pause at the wooden bridge that takes you into Dodge Park to see what kind of activity is taking place on the water; today the Mallard moms were out for a swim with their ducklings.  Back to pedaling we continue to head northwest, the river always in full view now, the scenery picturesque. Once known as the Huron River it was renamed the Clinton in 1824; it was the main reason for this areas early development. At one time farmers tended large farms growing wheat and corn along with apple and peach orchards; looking about, it’s not hard to imagine.  Now the Clinton River Park Trail System passes through over 460 acres of Sterling Heights parkland in Dodge, Farmstead and Clinton River North and South parks. Mature trees keep the temperatures several degrees cooler than it is outside their reach; this summer that’s a really good thing. Bikes share the path with pedestrians, roller blades and plenty of leashed dogs. Where the trail parallels Utica Rd sprawling homes take advantage of  beautiful river views. The only reminder that you are in the suburbs is when the path takes you under the M 53 freeway, but just as quickly you immersed back into the peacefulness of your surroundings. The trail had been thoughtfully laid out so you never have to cross a street; a tunnel takes you under Riverland Drive. The Sterling Heights section of the trail ends at Van Dyke, a tunnel now takes you under the multi-laned road; the city of Utica picks it up from there.

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Heritage Park is on the west side of Van Dyke just south of M 59, this is the newest section of the hike-bike trail. The park has undergone improvements and  is home to a canoe launch and fishing pier, not to mention the newly paved trail. An impressive bridge was constructed last year that at last allows us to cross the river into Utica. Where the trail ends it is a short ride through the neighborhood; a left turn and then a right we find ourselves at yet another bridge. The water moves quicker here; the sound of running water just a little louder. Passing through the decades old tunnel we arrive in Utica’s newest addition Memorial Park. Memorial has been a welcome addition to this tiny city; folks now have a wonderful place to gather. Brick pavers set the stage for modern picnic tables and benches; lush landscaping adds color and interest to the area, massive hanging baskets spill over with fragrant petunias. A stairway leads down to the river; a swing and benches invite you to sit for a while and overlook the water. On warm evenings we often take advantage of the space and find others enjoying it as well.

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A short ride up Auburn Rd into downtown, the best hamburger around awaits you; I’m talking about The Shamrock Pub. Established in 1935 the bar has withstood a couple of fires and change of ownership through its many years. The inside is charming; wood tables and chairs, exposed brick, retro fixtures and a hint of Art Deco. This time of year you cannot beat the patio; brick pavers enclosed on three sides with low brick walls topped with planter after planter of bright red Geraniums, so pretty. The menu is simple stuff done well; just order the burger…..A side of fries is large enough for two to share, we recommend the seasoned variety. The place was doing a brisk business today, but it didn’t take long for our food to arrive. Burgers arrive open-faced on paper plates snapped into red plastic holders; a pile of lettuce tomato onion and pickle wait to be assembled between the burger(cooked over an open flame) and sesame seed bun, a pair of peppers act as garnish. No matter where we eat this is the burger which we measure all others by; this is still our favorite.

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After dinner we took a spin through the town’s historic district; the neighborhood is lovely. Houses 150 years old still stand gracefully on Cass Ave; a large Italianate home was part of the underground railroad. You will find a bit of everything here; Victorians with fancy woodwork, large colonials from the early 1900’s and small brick homes from the 30’s. Residents are proud of their city’s past; from distilleries and farms to the Utica and Romeo stage line, Utica has a surprising amount of history for a town of 1.9 square miles. With the 5 mile ride ahead of us it was time to start back; we’d had a pleasant day and a great meal….you can’t ask for a better day!

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TOLEDO: Historic Old West End Festival

15 Jul

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In 1909 the city of Toledo threw a grand party; a true Mardi Gras festival complete with King Wamba and Queen Sancha.  These days they call it the Historic Old West End Festival and this year was the 103rd anniversary of the King Wamba Carnival Parade. Taking place the first weekend in June, the parade kicks off the festival and celebrates the beginning of Summer. We were up and out of the house early as the parade began at 10am; having experience on our side we knew exactly where to stand on the parade route for the best view. The weather was perfect, sunshine and blue sky with a gentle breeze. As start time got closer, space on  sidewalks became scarce. We stretched our necks looking for some sign of activity; our ears let us know the procession had begun. It was quite a display; stilt walkers, jugglers, pooch parade, vintage cars, Art Cars and our city’s own Detroit Party Marching Band. There were members of Cirque du Soleil and the Glass City Rollers, all smiling and waving to onlookers. Young people, old people, both participating and observing. A cavalcade of bands towed on flatbeds, dancers, bicycles, even a beautiful vintage Chris Craft wood boat. What a spectacle it was! There’s nothing like the pageantry of a parade. King Wamba and Queen Sancha passed by receiving cheers from the crowd on the way to their coronation.

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When the last of the parade had passed us by we made our way over to the rest of the festival; throughout the entire historic neighborhood you will find yard sales. The district itself is made up of 25 city blocks squared, that’s a lot of yards! The architecture here is eclectic and wonderful; Victorian, Edwardian. Queen Ann and Romanesque are side by side with Arts and Crafts, Neoclassical and Colonial Revival. It is truly an amazing collection of homes that are lovingly maintained. House Tours are also available; there is just so much to see we have never taken the time to actually do the tour.

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Simply walking up and down streets like Collingwood and Scottwood showcase some of the neighborhoods finest homes. Yard sales have a bit of everything, antique to modern, artwork to baby items; you never know what you may find. The Old West End looks different from our historic neighborhoods, the homes are definitely unique to the area. Folks seem to all know each other and who’s doing what to their house; these types of quarters are usually tight-knit. We walked and walked, and Kris took photo after photo trying to capture the beauty. All that walking and we didn’t buy a thing…..Next up, the Art Fair.

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The juried Art Fair is held on the grounds surrounding the Toledo Museum of Art’s Glass Pavillion, which is quite lovely. Artists come from surrounding states to display and sell their wares. The art work is always top quality; pottery, jewelry and glass. One booth made “Bots”, these wacky little robot creatures created from spoons, tea strainers and even an old metal Band-Aid box, that was our favorite booth. The Festival is large and also includes children’s activities, food and even beer to go with live music; a very nice setup.

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We were ready to sit and have some lunch; pulling out of the residential area we spotted a fabulous structure on Collingwood, Our Lady Queen of the Most Holy Rosary Cathedral. With a name like that you know it’s going to be pretty awesome! Awesome, doesn’t even begin to scratch the surface of it. The church is built in the Spanish Platteresque style, I’ve never heard of it before but I can tell you it is stunning. The exterior is granite and exquisitely carved limestone; inside the main altar is carved of marble imported from Spain. We just took a quick peek as some worshipers were seated in the pews. Just from that brief look I couldn’t help but be awed by the bays that line the nave, the stained glass windows, most notably the 28 ft in diameter Rose window, the pulpit carved from white oak. This definitely calls for a return visit.

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At last we reached our lunch destination; Maumee Bay Brew Pub located on Broadway. The building is cool; it opened in 1859 as the Oliver House Hotel. It is said that several presidents have stayed here: Abe Lincoln, Grant and Garfield. The interesting thing is at one time it was used as a hospital for wounded soldiers during the Spanish-American war and has been named one of Ohio’s top 10 Most Haunted Buildings. We didn’t see any ghosts on our visit. The restaurant is located on the second floor in the former main ballroom; exposed brick walls, wood plank flooring and tons of memorabilia on the walls. Antique bottles, beer tappers and vintage beer cans are all on display. As we were led to a table I almost stopped in my tracks as a spotted a table of three sharing a 12 inch giant pretzel……for real! Served in what appeared to be a pizza tin it is served with cups of spicy brown mustard, cream cheese and cheddar beer sauce for dipping, if only we had brought a few friends. The menu is typical brew pub fare, 1/2 lb burgers, appetizers and brick-oven pizza. From the seating area you have a great view of MBBC 500 gallon tanks of their own crafted beer. It was pizza and beer for us; I had a porter, Kris a King Prunus, and the signature Oliver House Pizza. All was delicious; toppings of artichoke hearts, pepperoni, Italian sausage, mushrooms and carmelized onions created a tasty combination with their 5-cheese blend. It felt good to sit in the air conditioning and quench our thirst and our hunger.  Toledo  has a lot to offer, check it out sometime.

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Mount Clemens: Wandering through History…

10 Jul

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Residing on the banks of the Clinton River is the city of Mount Clemens; incorporated in 1879 this four square mile city is the county seat of Macomb County. If you are not familiar with the area, you may have heard of the city; it was most famous for its mineral baths. That’s right, back in the day, beginning about 1873, Mt Clemens once had 11 bath houses and many hotels that played host to the rich and famous. Celebrities such as Clark Gable, Mae West, Babe Ruth and Jack Dempsey, along with William Randolph Hearst and the Vanderbilt family all flocked to the city for the well-known baths. In the 20’s the industry began to decline and the Great Depression took its toll on “Bath City”. Today only one of the original bath houses remains; now the Henry Ford Macomb Hospital, they continue to offer the healing baths using mineral water retrieved from an aquifer beneath the hospital. In about 1880 a new industry launched; roses. Yes, Mt Clemens was home to 10 major Rose growers. With over 30 acres under glass, it was once known as the Rose capital of the US. I can remember seeing the greenhouses from the time I was a kid until maybe a decade ago. Metro Detroit is filled with interesting stories and places if you just take the time to look.

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The first stop on our agenda for the day was the Crocker House Museum located on Union Street. The Italianate house-turned- museum was built in 1869 by the city’s first mayor Joshua Dickinson. The home’s furniture and decor reflect the mineral bath era in Mt Clemens.  Our guide shared stories of the Crocker family, artifacts and photos bring the stories to life. Exhibits display city mementos through the decades including pieces from Mt Clemens Pottery.  The photos of the bath houses are amazing! Items like bathrobes, dishes, and souvenirs along with guest registries from the hotels remind us of what a huge industry this was for the area. It’s great to be able to see these cool vintage pieces of the past. The house is quite lovely; you are able to tour both floors and see what life was like then. Space in the basement is used for classes, lectures and themed afternoon teas put on by Macomb County Historical Society. They also host an annual Garden Walk and Cemetery Walk. You do not have to be from the area to really enjoy your visit, there’s a lot of interesting history here. 

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The Anton Art Center is housed in the historic Carnegie Library building erected in 1904.  The center hosts rotating exhibits throughout the year so it’s nice to stop in once in a while and check out the current artists on display, which is what brought us here. The space on the first floor is the Main Gallery, Fiber Hybridity was the current show, there were some cool pieces. The second floor is the Community Gallery and hosts shows by three community groups. The Art Center is more than a gallery; they offer educational programming, community outreach and special events. I love the gift shop; pieces are sold on consignment so the selection is always new. Keep this place in mind for  Christmas shopping, they have a wonderful Christmas Market. If you are interested in honing your artistic skills they offer youth and adult classes in painting, fabric arts, ceramics and jewelry making.

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Lunchtime had arrived; throughout the day several people had recommended the Engine House Bar and Grill on Cass by the railroad tracks. Not ones to turn down good advice, the restaurant was our next stop. The building has been around since the early 1900’s; beginning life as a grocery and meat market, it seems it has always sold food. As we walked inside it had a neighborhood feel to it as though the waitresses could tell you everyone’s name and their favorite food or drink. Sitting at a high top table we looked through the menu; lots of appetizers, salads, sandwiches, and entrees. The pizza came highly recommended so we ordered  the Classic. The Tigers were on the large screen TV as friends gathered together to watch and have a drink. Our pizza arrived; not only did it look good, it was delicious! Service is friendly and prices are fair making it a great place to stop in for a meal or a drink.

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Across the street on Grand Ave is the Michigan Transit Museum, formerly the home of Grand Trunk Western Railroad Depot. Named a Michigan State Historic Site and on the National Register of Historic Places, this one story Italianate structure opened in 1859. This was when GTWR opened their Port Huron to Detroit line traveling through Mt Clemens. The interior has been transformed into a museum complete with a waiting area and a re-created ticket office. Floors and ceiling are hardwood, walls are wet plaster with wainscoting. There is stuff everywhere to look at; take the time to really look around, volunteers are available to answer questions. The depot’s claim to fame is the fact that the railroad hired 12-year old Thomas Edison as a newsboy and candy salesman on the Port Huron to Detroit run. The story goes like this: In 1862 while the train was on lay over, young Thomas Edison pulled a 3-year old boy out of the path of an oncoming train, the boy was the station agent’s son. As a reward for the rescue the agent, J.V. Mackenzie, taught Edison train telegraphy and operation. Sometime later Mackenzie joined Edison at his Menlo Park Lab. Seriously, this town is full of fascinating history. 

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One of the rules of summertime is: eat ice cream. Right? Luckily for us there’s a little place not too far from the museum to get some. Before we get there I have two words for you: Cappuccino Crunch.  At one time several small dairies occupied space in the city. In 1923 John Miller bought out several smaller creameries and opened Miller Bros Creamery. Miller Bros first made ice cream in 1937 and opened several company stores, eventually selling the business to the London Dairy in 1971.  Today, the charming little store on Dickinson Street is owned and operated by 87-year old Irene. She began her career working for Miller Bros in 1955, became store manager in 1962, and finally, bought the store from London Dairy in 1982…… she never misses a days work. The old-fashioned brick building with curved front windows and original Miller Bros sign screams kitsch. Inside it is a combo mini-mart and ice cream store. We headed directly for the ice cream counter that now serves Hershey Ice Cream (not related to the Hershey candy company) and each ordered cappuccino crunch, Kris got a cone, I got a dish. The cappuccino flavored ice cream is smooth and creamy with tunnels of dark chocolate fudge running through it. The perfect bite is a combo of ice cream, fudge and a chunk of crunchy toffee that is scattered throughout. Trust me, try it. Though hardly a big city Mt Clemens has enough to provide you with a full day’s entertainment.  

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DETROIT: Indian Village Home Tour

3 Jul

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Have you ever driven down a beautiful tree-lined street with beautiful, elegant, amazing, grand historic homes residing on each side? And, have you ever wished you could  go inside; you know, just take a look, see if the interior lives up to the exterior? Well, for the last 39 years the residents of Indian Village have been providing people with that opportunity at the annual Historic Indian Village Home & Garden Tour. That’s right, for the price of a ticket you can wander along Burns, Iroquois and Seminole from E. Jefferson to Mack and see where some of Detroit’s most affluent residents once lived. Some of the better known names: Arthur Buhl, Bernard Stroh, J Burgess Book and Detroit sculptor Julius Melchers. The auto industry provided many with luxurious lifestyles; Edsel B Ford, Henry Leland (founder of Lincoln and Cadillac), George Holley (Holley Carburetor)  and autobaron Robert Hupp (Huppmobile) to name a few. This was where the rich built their homes; doctors, lawyers and executives. For the more egotistical residents, if a home larger than their own was built, they simply built another with more square footage. Having said that, the largest home in the neighborhood is 15,000 sq ft and was built by Bingley Fales; a lawyer and assistant general manager of the Edison Illuminating Company. Homes were built between 1895 and the late 20’s in a variety of architectural styles; Arts and Crafts, Tudor Revival, Georgian and Romanesque are a few. If you had enough cash anything was possible; elevators, pewabic tile floors, fireplace surrounds and fountains. Many are adorned with intricate carved wood moldings, third-floor ballrooms, and elaborate chandeliers. Servants quarters and carriage houses were not uncommon.

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We began our tour at the Jefferson Ave. Presbyterian Church on the corner of E. Jefferson and Burns; built in 1926 and Gothic in style, this place is fabulous! Inside the church itself  hardwood floors gleam, ornate  light fixtures dangle from long chains attached to the vaulted ceiling, the altarpiece is carved wood, above it organ pipes rise upwards, sunlight makes the stained glass windows glow. They don’t make them like this anymore…. Outside we began our tour of the homes and gardens; Indian Village is made up of 352 homes, 4 churches and 2 elementary schools; 10 structures and several gardens were on the tour. Residents were not the only “names” associated with the neighborhood, architects were also well-known; C Howard Crane (Fox Theatre), Smith, Hinchman & Grylls (Guardian Building), Louis Kamper, Albert Kahn, and William B Stratton (who married Mary Chase Perry, founder of Pewabic Pottery). The lines to go inside were not long, we started out on Iroquois with the home featured on the cover of this years program; The Austin Elbert Morey House designed by Louis Kamper. WOW! That was my first impression, and my lasting impression. Dark wood planks make up the floor and stairs, it is also carved into columns, archways, a stunning banister and railing that leads to an incredible balcony that over looks the first floor. Oh how I wish I had photos I could share with you, unfortunately this is the only home tour I have ever been on that did not allow photos to be taken. The plaster work in the home is exquisite, original silk wall-coverings remain, it is truly a treasure. Up and down Iroquois we went, taking in beautiful gardens, a Colonial Revival and a couple of English Arts and Crafts homes, all are lovingly cared for. We continued meandering the streets; many homes are brick with stone details, they have stained or beveled glass windows, fancy chimneys and turrets. Window boxes, urns and landscapes overflow with annuals in full bloom, children are selling lemonade, bottles of cold water and cookies. We saw carriage houses, churches, schools, the homes of Albert Kahn, Louis Kamper and an art lot. This area is more than just a neighborhood, it is a community. Together they celebrate the rich history of their homes and Detroit’s glorious past.

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With another pleasant summer day on hand we decided to eat lunch outdoors at La Petit Zinc on the corner of Trumbull and Howard. The plain exterior doesn’t give a clue to what you will find inside; a charming courtyard complete with a fountain, umbrella covered tables, and gardens. Inside walls are brightly colored and vibrant artwork hangs. The restaurant is fashioned after a French cafe, the owner was born and raised in France, the name La Petit Zinc is French slang for a local bar. The menu is made up of French cafe staples; sweet and savory crepes, sandwiches served on freshly baked baguette, meat and cheese plates and salads. Also available are coffee, tea and espresso drinks. Sometimes simple things are the tastiest; this is true for the lemon and sugar crepe. Along with that we  the special of the day; a savory crepe with ham and brie. With a generous amount of filling the crepe is light and tender, the cheese melted and gooey. A small green salad came with the savory crepe; organic mixed greens and sliced tomato tossed in the house dressing, making a nice combination of flavors. A little off the beaten path, once you eat here you’ll want to come back.

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Cleveland Day III : Museums & More…..

27 Jun

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It was our last day in Cleveland and we still had a list of things we wanted to do. The day promised to be a warm one, so we thought we’d check out a few museums in air-conditioned comfort. The University Circle district is home to more than a dozen museum and cultural institutions; anchored by hospitals and universities this part of town has lots going on. We began with a visit to the Cleveland Museum of Natural History. The building is laid out in a way that leads you from gallery to gallery; teaching us about all aspects of nature from prehistoric times to the present. We had just begun to walk around the lobby area when Kris noticed a man walking around holding a skunk; getting ready to do a lecture, the speaker paused for a while to let anyone interested pet the animal. Getting a closer look at the black and white critter, she is really very cute. I stroked her back and the top of her head, the fur is stiff and somewhat bristly. Keeping with the wildlife theme we went outdoors to the Wildlife Center and Woods Garden; just over 2 acres of plants and animals native to the area. Shaded by large trees we saw owls, Bald Eagles (Wow are they big!), fox, bobcats and a deer. The museum itself is a mix of old and new;  a large open space from floor to ceiling, displays divide the galleries. The Kirtland Hall of prehistoric life features a full size replica of a T. Rex and a Triceratops; why is it children are afraid of Santa Claus but the sight of a gigantic skeletal figure with huge teeth is fun? Check out the Dunkleosteus Terrelli…it’s a fossil fish that was found in the shale around Cleveland, don’t think I’ve ever seen one of those before. Follow the formation of the universe, feel the rumble of an earthquake, touch a volcanic rock, a stalagmite and a stalactite. I really liked the section of gems and minerals; colored diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and a large display of mineral eggs, beautiful!

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Next up, the Cleveland Museum Of Art; opened in 1916 the Beaux Arts style building was designed by local architects Benjamin Hubbell and Dominick Benes. Originally two wings flanking a central rotunda, it has undergone many changes and additions throughout the years, its beautiful white Georgian marble facade has remained.  Each time we enter an art museum we are offered a map, we prefer to wander aimlessly and discover things on our own. The interior is elegant; marble columns, exquisite sconces, architectural details everywhere, it feels light and airy. Currently undergoing yet another expansion and renovation, there is still plenty to see; African, Medieval, Greek and Roman art. Decorative art and design showcases incredible items such as furniture, clocks and other household type things that are opulent and magnificent. Hard to believe people actually used such pretty things. The vibrant colors and amazing details of European paintings from 1500-1800 are amazing, the sculpture always fascinates me too. Internationally renowned for its collection of Ancient Egyptian Art, the gallery is impressive. I can’t wait to come back and see the museum when renovations are complete.

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Just a hop and a skip from Little Italy, lunch was close at hand. With more than a dozen restaurants to choose from parking would dictate where we ate. With an open space directly in front of Etna Restaurant, we took it as a sign. Cute cafe tables sit on the sidewalk under a kelly green awning; with the threat of rain looming we chose to dine inside. Traditional in decor with white tablecloths the space is charming. Our server arrived quickly to greet us and recite the specials of the day. When he arrived to take our order he brought along a basket of delicious, fresh, crunchy crust, chewy middle, Italian bread with plenty of butter.  Our Caprese salad arrived first; fresh mozzarella and slices of vine-ripe tomatoes laid across a bed of mixed greens. Drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and torn basil leaves it was seriously good. They were nice enough to divide the ravioli among two plates; tender pasta pillows with a spinach and ricotta filling, covered in a cream sauce that had a hint of tomato sauce….scrumptious!

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We began the drive back westward; before setting out on the journey home we stopped in the neighboring city of Lakewood. We thought it would be nice to take a walk and burn off some calories. The homes in the area are fantastic! Of course the closer you are to the lake, the more incredible they become. Like Detroit, the Clevelanders of the industrial age had money to burn, and what better way to show off than with a grand home. We parked the car on Lake Ave; the street is tree-lined, ornate old apartment buildings are intermixed with distinct homes varying in size from modest to very large. Houses wear tile roofs and sport lush green lawns and professional landscapes. We took a perpendicular street over one street closer to Lake Erie, Edgewater; here the houses grow larger and can be referred to as estates. Usually made of brick or stone it is not uncommon to see a turret, elaborate doorways, large urns and stone statues, window boxes overflow with colorful annuals. Many of the houses are historic and were built by the finest craftsmen of the day.  The neighborhood sits upon a high bluff overlooking Lake Erie; these homes have a picturesque view of the smallest of the Great Lakes right out their back door. It is absolutely wonderful to wander through, I like to  imagine what the homes look like inside. 

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Heading back to Detroit we continue to follow the lake through Lakewood, Rocky River and Bay Village enjoying a lake view until just east of Lorain. Here we drop south to Amherst and continue westward through Ohio farm country, finally going north to the mitten state. Our time in Cleveland was a blast; we revisited old favorites and found new ones. By freeway it takes under three hours  from here to there, making it a perfect weekend getaway. Go see for yourself!



Cleveland Again: Random Acts of Relaxation

22 Jun

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We began our day with a drive through the Rocky River Reservation, our favorite portion of the Emerald Necklace; a parkway linking together 16 parks encircling the City of Cleveland. The view is picturesque; the area dense with mature trees such as Willows, Sycamores and Cottonwoods. The road winds through the natural area mimicking the river’s path; massive shale cliffs provide a breathtaking background. Here in southeast Michigan the landscape is flat; the glaciers were much kinder to Cleveland, providing wonderful elevation changes and fantastic scenery. The road takes you through deep flood plains, forests and meadows, lovely bridges span the water and antique looking  overpasses rise overhead. At Berea we park the car and walk out to the Berea Falls scenic overlook, what a view! We found the trail that takes you right down to the water; huge rocks rise out of the riverbed, making it the perfect vantage point to take it all in.The reservation also includes a marina, stables, bridle trails, three golf courses and a nature center, which we popped into. It was hard to get back in the car, but we had so much more to do! We took the same route back the way we came, driving the leisurely speed limit that allows you to relax and enjoy the ride.

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Lunch time had arrived and we wanted to try a place we had driven by the day before in the Detroit Shoreway District. Stone Mad located on W 65th Street caught our eye; sitting in a residential neighborhood the Irish pub features an incredible stone patio. When I say stone, I mean everything is stone, tables, seats, fountain, you get the idea. I briefly poked my head inside the restaurant, it was very attractive; beautiful black walnut paneling covers the walls, archways behind the bar are light by Chihuly light fixtures, stained glass panels decorate the space above the door and between rooms. But, on such a pretty day one must sit outdoors! One thing we mid-westerners know how to do is enjoy the outdoors every chance we get, so, patio seating it is. Choosing the table closest to the fountain we looked over the menu, all your basics are there; sandwiches, salads, appetizers and burgers. Our friendly waitress recommended the special burger of the day so we followed her advice, we paired that with a house salad, and sat back and listened to the sound of the water cascading down the fountain. For a place not on the main street they had a good lunch crowd. Our salad arrived first, fresh baby spinach, goat cheese, pickled red onions, toasted almonds and a warm currant balsamic dressing, lots of good flavors piled on a plate. Burgers are big, two can easily share; ours was topped with bacon, sautéed onions, melted Gouda, lettuce, tomato, and onion, yum!

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Tremont is one of those places you could use as an example of “don’t judge a book by its cover”. The neighborhood resembles Hamtramck, but the restaurants, bars and boutiques would be perfectly at home in Birmingham. To top it off Tremont has one of the largest concentrations of architecturally notable churches to be found in any neighborhood in America. The original site of Cleveland University; it was only here from 1851 to 1853, but street names such as Literary, College, Professor and University serve as a reminder of the past.  We wandered the shops and galleries taking in the art and architecture of the area, some of our favorites: The Paul Duda Gallery with its striking images of the Cleveland skyline, The Eye Candy Gallery with an eclectic mix of art in multiple media and Deering Vintage (of course) with its cool mid-century items. As a tourist you’ve got to keep up your strength; Lilly Handmade Chocolates will do the trick, the only problem being the decision process. The pieces are gorgeous, the flavor combinations awesome! We have been coming here since the shop opened and have enjoyed watching them grow, they even serve wine now. When we got thirsty it was two iced coffees over at Loop; in addition to great coffee they also sell art and records. As you can see there are a bevy of things to see and do in the neighborhood.

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After a short rest at Stone Gables it was dinner in the Gordon Square Arts District. There is so much activity in this area now we wanted to see it in the evening. Part of the revamped streetscape included new lighting; our favorite part? Newly placed sidewalk benches are lit from below casting a red glow around them, very funky looking. When we were walking around the day before a few locals suggested we have a meal at  XYZ The Tavern, we did. It was a mild evening, the restaurant as a wall of doorways that open out onto a side patio, so again we took advantage of outdoor dining. They were doing a brisk business, I believe a couple of the theatres had shows going on. The bar specializes in whiskey and bourbon, the kitchen, in made from scratch selections. We weren’t terribly hungry; we ordered the Chicken and Waffles from the Small Plates section of the menu, when it arrived we thought it could easily be an entrée. The waffles were a perfect golden color, crisp and tender at the same time with a wonderful malty flavor, dipped in warm syrup they were delectable! The chicken was equally good, boneless chunks of breast meat; crispy outside, juicy inside, dip it in the side of gravy to really indulge. All of the flavors really work well together. We threw in a side of the cheesy grits which were excellent. Service was fast and friendly and prices reasonable, I can see why XYZ is so popular.

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Heading back to the bed and breakfast, we remembered another place we wanted to check out, so we decided to end the evening with drinks at the Tremont Tap House on Scranton Rd. The historic Italianate building has great curb appeal; inside exposed brick walls, hardwood floors and a 40ft concrete bar give the place an industrial feeling. We took a couple of seats at the bar and looked over the extensive beer menu; over 100 beers with 48 on draft! The Taphouse is Clevelands first gastropub; the food looked great, but we were just here for drinks. I chose a porter (which just happened to be from Michigan) and Kris a V O and Coke. The bartender delivered our drinks and started up conversation, ah ha, we found another person who likes Detroit, as a matter of fact he was heading to the D the following morning. Between waiting on patrons we asked Jay about his favorite Cleveland places and we told him our favorites back home. Another couple arrived, sitting a few seats away from us at the bar, they joined the conversation. We sat and sipped our drinks enjoying both the company and the atmosphere; at the end of the night we exchanged cards and emails, Jay and I exchanged lists of cool places to check out when in each other’s cities. We had found ourselves another place to come back to on our next visit.

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Roadtrip Cleveland: The Greater Cleveland Aquarium

16 Jun

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Under the blue umbrella sky we started our drive south and east; destination Cleveland.  We love Cleveland, seriously, this town is highly underrated. Each time we visit we find more and more reasons to come back. Since we were here last, the Greater Cleveland Aquarium had opened, so that was the first place we went when we arrived in town. Located in the historic  FirstEnergy Powerhouse on the west bank of the flats, they have even turned the old coal mining tunnels into underwater displays; what a cool way to re-use a 100-year-old building! We paid for our tickets and started to look around.  The fish are all colorful; yellow angelfish, pink starfish, giant seahorses and clownfish with their whimsical stripes. Displays are eye-catching,  the Coral Reef, amazing! With over 35 tanks the variety of fish runs the gamut from Ohio game fish to alligators, octopus and sharks and rays of the Florida Keys. One area features an 11,000 gallon “touch tank”;  pet a horseshoe crab, sea urchin, sea cucumber, maybe even a shark or stingray. Then we made it to the Sea Tube, WOW, this is definitely the main attraction; an acrylic underwater tunnel that allows you a fascinating  walk-through experience. Home to over 18 sharks, fish and sting rays, you are surrounded by sea life. The tunnel goes on for over 150 feet; sharks swim overhead and alongside as you walk, schools of fish seemingly avoid the shark’s path, stingrays look as if they are flying as opposed to swimming. It’s peaceful and relaxing, it’s the place folks tend to linger. With the temperatures rising outside it was a great respite inside, cool and refreshing , just like a dip in the ocean.

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Cleveland is loaded with great districts, we ventured over to Ohio City for lunch. With many options available we selected La Petit Triangle Cafe; drawn in by its charming sidewalk seating we chose a table in the shade. This is one of those great neighborhood hang-outs; diners and staff all seem to know each other. Menu offerings are definitely French influenced, along with breakfast, lunch and dinner they also serve espresso, wine and other alcoholic beverages. We wanted something cool and refreshing, we chose the Triangle Salad; crisp greens, chevre, walnuts and dried cranberries topped off with a raspberry vinaigrette. For a sandwich the Pan Bagna had a winning combination of ham, swiss, tomato, artichoke, spinach and olive tapenade all piled atop a crisp and chewy French baguette, sounds good doesn’t it? It was! The iced tea of the day was a pomegranate green tea, so nice on a summer day. The funny thing was our waitress remembered us from last time we ate there, she said, aren’t you guys from Detroit? Now that’s some memory. She was actually headed to Detroit for the weekend….the electronic music festival, so we gave her a few tips and she did the same for us.

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Just a short drive from the restaurant, we thought we’d check into our room next. As always, we booked a room at Stone Gables Bed and Breakfast; we have been coming here for years, our favorite place to stay in Cleveland. The accommodations and location suit us perfectly; just a couple of blocks from Lake Erie and close to Westside Market and good restaurants it’s no wonder we keep coming back. I read about a new ice cream place that opened recently in the Gordon Square Arts District, so we took a drive over. The district runs up and down Detroit Street from West 58th to West 73rd; home the Cleveland Public Theatre, the newly restored Capitol Theatre, public art, cafes and funky independent shops this area has really come to life. Before we did anything else we had to find Sweet Moses; named after the city’s founder Moses Cleaveland, we had heard only good things about it, now I know why…Walk in the door and you will find yourself in an old-time soda fountain and treat shop. The space has been completely transformed with an authentic Bastion-Blessings soda fountain; framed in 16 feet of Tennessee marble with bar stools and vintage tables with wrought iron chairs it is a step back in time. The ice cream is all homemade along with hot fudge and caramel toppings, toffee, fudge and nut brittle’s, it’s a sweet-lovers dream come true. We had a seat at the counter and ordered a double chocolate malt made with the Belgian Chocolate ice cream, you know what, it would be worth the drive to go get one right now…it’s that good. With a wonderful real chocolate taste it was the perfect proportion of ice cream and malted milk, blended until still thick but not lumpy; large enough to share, it was fantastic! Served with a topping of fresh whipped cream that came from a chrome-like nozzle that pulled out of the soda fountain itself, it was fun to watch them make up orders as we indulged in our malt. Along with sundaes, cones, malts and shakes they also do old-fashioned phosphates and sodas made with carbonated water…..they even make their own root beer.  If I lived in Cleveland this would be a dangerous place for me. Time to walk off some of those calories; walking down Detroit we saw a sign on a corner directing us down a side street to a shop called Artful Living. Following the arrow we made our way in, what a great place; beautiful items for your home, jewelry, artwork and more. I found a pair of earrings I loved so I paid for them then immediately put them on. Little places like this seem to be popping up in the district. After a walk up and back ,taking our time to browse interesting shops, we went back to the room for a little rest and relaxation.

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Tremont is located on a bluff that overlooks the bend in the Cuyahoga River and provides excellent views of downtown, oh, and it has tons of restaurants, really good restaurants. One fine example would be Lolita, which is where we had dinner. Located on Literary Ave, this is one of Michael Symons early restaurants. Always busy, we were lucky enough to get a table right away, one of the advantages of having a late dinner. Service has always been impeccable and this time was no different. We had an appetizer of roasted dates; bacon wrapped with almonds chiles and parsley, they were outstanding. For our entrée the Olive Pizza sounded good; olives, mozzarella, Fresno chiles and oregano it was a nice combo of salty and spicy. One of the days side dishes was a polenta, I’m thinking it was made with cream cheese, it was so good.

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There was one more place we wanted to check out before the  night was over; The Prosperity Social Club. Opened in 2005, the original barroom building has stood in this spot on Starkweather Ave since 1938. The decor is vintage; from the stunning Art Deco bar and chestnut walls to the super-cool beer light fixtures, all are welcome here. There’s a wood burning fireplace and a game room that features an old-fashioned bowling machine, pool table and vintage board games. Along with a full service bar they also serve micro-brews and a tavern-style food menu, it is truly a neighborhood gem. There were two open seats at the bar, perfect. We ordered our drinks then kicked back. We met a nice couple from the area and ended up chatting with them for a while, how nice. We have always found Clevelanders to be friendly and fun to talk to, afterall Detroit and Cleveland have shared many of the same ups and downs through the decades; looks to me like both places are on the ups.

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MILFORD: Gettin’ Campy

10 Jun

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It’s no secret that Kris and I are into all things vintage; although this event is definitely a little out of the ordinary, I believe most people would find it fun.  About a year ago Kris was out Milford way and stopped in at Camp Dearborn to check out the gathering of the Tin Can Tourists, when he got home he was so excited I wondered how he squeezed in a breath between sentences. This is one of the largest events of its kind and not the sort of thing you see everyday. It was so awesome he has been looking forward to the 2012 event ever since! Camp Dearborn, owned and operated by the city of Dearborn is actually located about 35 miles away in Milford. Celebrating its 60th anniversary it consists of 626 acres of rolling hills, lakes for fishing and swimming, a miniature golf course and lots of activities for campers, making it an ideal location for the annual Tin Can Tourists summer gathering. What is a Tin Can Tourist you ask? They are an all make and model vintage trailer and motor coach club. Members get together to share their love of these vintage RV’s, they share their knowledge and experience in the restoration and preservation of these amazing homes on wheels.

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Kris had told me so much about them I couldn’t wait to get  there and see for myself.  We arrived just as the open house began, yes, open house as in: the door is open come on in! We walked up the hill from the parking area and there they were, like we had gone back in time or wandered onto a Hollywood movie sound-stage; rows as long as I could see of trailers. From travel trailers to pick up cabs, Airstreams and Avions to Shasta and Winnebago’s, I wanted to see each and every one. Not only are the campers vintage, but many of the tow vehicles are too. Outside, owners have set up their “camp”; awnings extend from trailers outward creating a shaded area. People go all out; white picket fences with flower pots, picnic tables set with old-style dishes and linens, lawn chairs with side tables, even a Tiki Bar complete with grass roof! Miniature lights in fun shapes and colors are strung from awnings; it must be absolutely charming at night. Owners are friendly and welcoming, encouraging folks to have a look around. I have seen pictures of old trailers, and been inside new ones, but I just wasn’t prepared for how darling these little homes away from home would be. It’s like being a little girl playing in a doll house; miniature stoves and fridges, tables that fold down and beds that pop up. Tiny little bathrooms with little-bitty sinks, diminutive rooms, but all the comforts of home. Restored to original with honey colored wood, era correct curtains and upholstery, vintage accessories such as radios, dishes and fans, the interiors are over the top! From the Cuban look of the 40’s to Art Deco, 1950’s turquoise or the orange and avocado of the 60’s and 70’s we liked them all. Some folks gut the place and start from scratch making it uniquely their own, those were cool too! One couple created their own Starlight Lounge, now I know where everyone goes after dark.

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I really knew nothing about travel trailers before we came, one thing I learned is that Michigan had to be the RV manufacturing capital of the US, I counted over 75 manufacturers in the state! Here are some you may recognize: Avion, Aladdin, Hiawatha, Travco and Vagabond. As a matter of fact, Ray Frank who is credited with coining the phrase “motor home” built his Frank Motor Homes in Brown City. Built on a bare Dodge truck chassis they were later known as Dodge Frank Motor Homes, eventually Frank sold his company to Travco who continued to build them here. Airstreams are extremely popular; we saw a 1955 Wally Byam Holiday model that was absolutely amazing. Up and down the rows, in and out of Bee Lines, Coachmans and Serro Scotty Sportsmans, each one a reflection of the people who spend their days and nights inside. It was interesting to see the evolution of these tin can wonders. The original Tin Can Tourists Club was organized in 1919, I can only imagine what camping must have been like in those days…..by the 1980’s the club was no longer in existence. Then in 1998 the club was renewed as an all make and model club, you don’t even have to own a trailer to be a member. Their first event was held right here at Camp Dearborn. It is easy to see the appeal of this lifestyle; people getting together in beautiful places to share a common interest, make new friends and have a good time.

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More Cool Campers HERE

When we exited the last trailer we were famished so we drove into downtown Milford for some lunch. Luckily we saw a new place called Le Rendez Vous and decided to give it a try. Two steps in the door and I knew I would love this place! There are two sections, the dining room and the bakery; the bakery is filled with delectable items like scones, muffins and cookies. On the counter are loaves of freshly baked bread with samples of each to try. After about 3 chunks of the chocolate bread (yes, deep dark chocolate) I just asked for a loaf to go. We were seated at a table and given menus to look over. The owner is from France, she trained there as a pastry chef so the place is a combination French bakery and Crepe Cafe, what more could you ask for? We placed our order and sipped on fresh squeezed lemonade and listened to French music as we waited for the meal to arrive; one of the bonuses of crepes is they can be made quickly. In no time our plates arrived; a savory crepe filled with egg, ham, cheese and spinach was absolutely delicious. The crepe itself was lightly browned and tender, inside, the cheese was melted and clung to the rest of the fillings. We like to have one savory and one sweet and split them, it makes a wonderful combination! The sweet one was out of this world, the same tender crepe filled with a warm nutella filling, smothered in fresh strawberries, whipped cream and a scoop of vanilla ice cream, YUM!! What a great find.

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DETROIT: Just Wandering…….

4 Jun

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We started the day off with no plan in mind, just wandering around the city in search of a smile; we knew she wouldn’t let us down . I had gardens on the mind, what better place to start than the Belle Isle Conservatory? There was a definite liveliness outside the building as workers set up chairs for an afternoon wedding, lucky them, they had a perfect day! We took a stroll up and down the rows of gardens; Peonies in varying shades of pinks and reds were in full bloom. Tall spikes of  Lupine in rose, white and blue reached skyward; giant Allium joined them. Irises in multiple varieties added color to the landscape, orange Oriental Poppies were dazzling. The lawn was green and lush, borders of shrubs separate the rows. We walked through an opening in the shrubs to the center of the garden; here we were delighted to see Marshall Fredericks (think: Spirit of Detroit) Leaping Gazelle fountain up and running again. I love this piece! The elegant gazelle is surrounded by an otter, goose, hawk and a rabbit, the four of them native to Michigan. I read that this was the first commissioned work for which Marshall Frederick was paid; it’s lovely.  After we walked through the conservatory we headed out to the Lily pond; this is such a peaceful area. We walked around the pond, stopping at the far end to watch the fish swim around, very relaxing. Volunteers do a wonderful job keeping the pond and grounds looking great.

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Across from the conservatory  there are a series of greenhouses run by the Agriscience students of the Golightly Career and technical Center in Detroit. 10th and 11th grade students who join this urban agriculture program spend a half day, each day, for two years learning about vegetable and flower production, environmental education, food safety and nutrition, sustainability and market sales and services. We noticed a flurry of people and activity over at the greenhouses, we walked over to take a look. It was Friday, they were busy preparing for their annual plant sale scheduled for Saturday and Sunday. With permission,  we were able to walk through the greenhouses; aisles of perennials, annuals, herbs and heirloom tomatoes all ready to be sold. Volunteers were busy placing name tags and prices in the appropriate pots. I saw beautiful Foxglove, Coral Bells and daylilies. Flats of Petunias perfumed the air, Marigolds, Dahlias and Geraniums wait to be planted. It was fun to have a chance to go inside and poke around.

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We had made up our mind to have lunch at Green Dot Stables on West Lafayette; only opened for a short time it has already become quite popular. This horse-race-themed establishment serves a variety of sliders, fries and sides, all right around three bucks each. Newly refurbished, the interior has red brick walls and wood floors; it has a sort of retro feel to me. Two of three televisions had live horse racing on, while the third had soccer; photos of jockey’s adorn the walls. The menu is simple and straightforward, Sliders are served on Detroit’s own Browns Buns and come in an array of choices: Corned Beef, Lamb, Catfish, Shredded Pork to name a few along with traditional and Mystery Meat. French Fries are the super skinny type; crisp and delicious; these are also available in an assortment of ways: Cajun, Ranch, Truffle and Herb and our choice of  malt vinegar. For the ease of ordering we asked our waitress to bring us one of each of the first five sliders on the menu; that makes life easy, next time we get the next five…..The food arrived swiftly; each of the burgers comes in its own little cardboard dish garnished with pickle slices. We cut them in half and dug in; each had its own unique flavor, the combinations of meat and toppings very tasty, the traditional as good or better than any  I’ve ever had. Next time I have to remember to save room for dessert: a Smore Slider; cinnamon, Nutella and marshmallow fluff served on a bun, sounds good doesn’t it?

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We made a stop at Germack Coffee Shop in Eastern Market, after our caffeine fix we headed back outdoors to check out all  the goings-on in preparation for Flower Day.  North of the market The Detroit Mercantile Co was getting ready for their grand opening the following morning. The door was slightly ajar, the owner in view; we asked if we might get a sneak peek in the store, without hesitation we were welcomed in. What a cool store! Seriously, this place is great. The shop carries a little bit of everything; vintage and new items, clothing, gifts, music, souvenirs, even new bikes from the Detroit Bicycle Company. The owner is enthusiastic about carrying products made locally,we’re all for that ! The displays are eye-catching, you want to look everywhere at once, then you want to buy everything….. The mix of old and new really works well together, the owners passion for Detroit is clearly visible. I can tell we will be regular shoppers here.  

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DETROIT: Mexico and a Movie

30 May

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On any given evening you can find something interesting to do in Detroit. Kris read somewhere the movie My Week With Marilyn was showing at the Cass City Cinema at the Burton Theater; cool venue, fun topic, why not? The 140 seat theater is housed in the former Burton International School on Cass Ave. The old auditorium has been renovated into a legitimate movie theater equipped with the latest technology. Showing both Hollywood movies and independent films tickets cost only $5.00. Owner Joel Landy purchased the building in 2009, he owns many properties in the area and thought a movie theater would be a nice addition to the neighborhood.

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The attractive brick building is easy to find; parking is convenient, they have their own fenced in lot adjacent to the structure. We were the first to arrive for the evening showing;  with no other movie-goers to follow, we got out of the car and walked toward a sign with an arrow directing us to the entrance. We trailed from one sign to the next and then the next, where was everybody? Did we have the right time? Alone, we reached the door; once inside we encountered more signs and arrows directing us up the stairs.We came across this wonderful display of vintage projectors; that and the smell of freshly popped popcorn assured us we were on the right track. At the top of the stairs was a small concession stand to the right, ah ha! the source of the popcorn, the left wall displayed posters of upcoming movies.  We purchased our tickets along with a bag of still warm popcorn and proceeded into the theater. The space is small, intimate and cozy; heavy curtains hang in the doorway dividing the lobby from the auditorium. The decor is definitely vintage; dark wood, antique light fixtures, velour seats. More people started to arrive; a mix of regulars and newbies, we all took our seats as the trailers were projected onto the screen. By the time the movie began I was comfy in my seat and surroundings, there’s something really cool about seeing a movie here. It’s like a private screening, your focus is entirely on the story being played out before you, drawing you in. My Week With Marilyn is based on the making of the movie The Prince and the Showgirl filmed in 1956 in England. I thought Michelle Williams did an outstanding job capturing the essence of Marilyn Monroe. We both found the movie quite enjoyable, can’t wait to come back.

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For dinner we drove over to Southwest Detroit, there are just so many restaurants there I don’t know if we’ll ever be able to try them all; it will be fun trying! A little deeper into that section of the city is El Nacimiento on West Vernor.  The dining area is spacious, the decor traditional Mexican. We sat in a booth along the window overlooking all of the activity outdoors. Our server arrived quickly with water and menus, multiple page menus, this wasn’t going to be easy….everything looked delicious. Moments later a big basket of warm chips arrived with a platter that held three different salsas, sliced radishes and lime wedges. We munched on chips sampling each salsa as we perused the menu, when in doubt order one of everything…….well, almost everything. We had a Botana, llomo tostada, chorizo taco, cheese enchilada and chicken flauta, it was all soooo good! There were lots of freshly sliced avocado, jalapeno, ripe tomato, onion and finely shredded lettuce garnishing each, well seasoned, each meat had its own distinct flavor. We could have easily fed at least one other person! 

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After leaving El Nacimiento we drove around a bit; over on Sprigwells St we noticed Sheilas Bakery was still open. Another thing we like about Southwest, things stay open late; where else can you find an open bakery at 8:30pm on a Sunday night? Sheilas is awesome; when you come in the door there is a series of large refrigerators with glass doors displaying a huge selection of beautiful sheet cakes. Sheilas is known for her cakes, especially the Tres Leches. The next section of the bakery is mainly traditional Mexican baked goods, we try something new each visit. This time we selected a flaky type rolled pastry filled with cream cheese and passion fruit, some kind of triangle shaped baked cheese thing, and I couldn’t resist a piece of yellow cake with the pink frosting and sprinkles. Too full to eat on the spot we took it home to enjoy later…….and enjoy we did! The cheese triangle kind of reminded us of a less sweet cheesecake, though equally delicious. The rolled pastry was light and crisp, the filling very tasty. The cake was exactly how good cake should be; moist and tender, the frosting creamy and delectable.  The bakery also sells these amazing looking little desserts that appear to be a flower suspended in gelatin, next time we’re getting one of those. It turned out to be a wonderful evening of new tastes and adventures, I can’t wait till next weekend!