DETROIT: Dinner and a Movie…

25 Feb

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It’s a Saturday night in Detroit; there’s an event at the Senate Theater on Michigan Ave at 7pm, Senor Lopez Taqueria is just down the street, perfect! We are no strangers to Southwest Detroit, the amount of restaurants in the area is staggering; Senor Lopez is a little off the beaten path, and a little different from the rest. The owner, Rafael Lopez, is originally from Apan Hidalgo Mexico; using his mother’s recipes he opened his restaurant in Detroit in 2002. The menu is filled with the typical fare you’d expect to find at a Mexican restaurant, what separates Senor Lopez from the rest are the “house specialties”; dishes from Hidalgo. We stepped inside the tiny storefront, there were only two open tables; taking the one furthest from the cold air of the door, we were greeted with menus, chips and two types of salsa’s. It didn’t take long to decide, we chose one item from the list of house specialties and a combination plate.  Our plates arrived, everything looked scrumptious. The Chiles en Nogada is a dish of poblano peppers stuffed with granada, walnuts and other tasty items, the peppers are then fried in a light batter, covered with a sweet white sauce that tastes like honey and cinnamon and garnished with pomegranate, very appealing. As for taste, it is a wonderful blend of sweet and savory with a touch of heat mixed in, delicious, and like nothing else we’ve ever tasted, yum. The combination plate is perfect to split; two beef tacos, two cheese enchiladas, a burrito, rice and beans. It too was tasty, the sauce and seasonings different from most places in Southwest. When we had finished I went up to the counter where our waitress wrote up our bill and collected the money; we left the tip on the table and were out the door, we had a movie to catch!

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 The Senate Theater has called Michigan Ave home since 1926, mainly a neighborhood movie house it also hosted comedians and entertainers from time to time; as a matter of fact Danny Thomas performed here when he was still known as Amos Jacobs. The theater was remodeled several times, in the 30’s it was remade in the Art Deco style so popular at the time and was given a new facade and vertical  marquee. In 1949 it was remodeled in the Art Moderne style, after years of struggling, resorting to the showing of horror and X-rated films, it closed in 1955. In 1962 the Detroit Theater Organ Society had outgrown the space at the Iris Theater and was looking for a new home; there was the Senate, the seats gone, broken glass and mirror scattered about, the basement flooded and a large part of the roof  blown off, the DTOS said “we’ll take it”. After two years and countless man hours the DTOS had a new home.

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Tonight we are seeing five silent film shorts that will be accompanied with music played by Dave Calendine on the Mighty 4/34 Wurlitzer Theater Pipe Organ (Opus 1953), not your average night out on the town!  We enter the theater, the ceiling of the outer lobby is plastered with light bulbs, walls are porcelain coated in pale pink.  We pass through swinging red doors into the main lobby, here we purchase tickets and are tempted by the smell of popcorn. The Senate was never an extremely ornate movie house, the DTOS has been working on the renovations as funds have allowed; they’ve got a ways to go, but have recently done work on the lobby and replaced light fixtures. We have time to investigate before the show starts; a red Art Deco style ticket bin remains in place, the plaster pattern on the ceiling prevails and is trimmed in gold, vintage signs direct patrons to the restrooms. The 800 seat auditorium is plain, large grates flanking the stage were put in place to accommodate the pipe organ. We take our seats as the lights are dimmed, Betty Boop appears on the screen, remember when a cartoon was always played before the movie?

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The films are accompanied by music that is dramatic, whimsical, despairing and merry; reflecting the character’s situation. Buster Keaton is fantastic in One Week, we are introduced to silent actors by the names of “Snub” Pollard and Jimmy Aubrey.  When the last movie ends we are surprised how quickly the time has passed. Anyone interested in seeing the mighty Wurlitzer and the organ chambers is invited onstage for a tour, we are so there. Standing  close to the organ we can really appreciate the craftsmanship and details. Originally built for the Fisher Theater in 1927, it was played there until 1961 when the theater was remodeled. The Fisher brothers spared no expense, the organs specifications allow it to be played for both cinema and concert work, it is the eighth largest organ Wurlitzer ever made. With 34 ranks (rows) of pipes this organ can make almost any sound from chimes and xylophone to castanets and a bird whistle. The console is huge, painted gold it is decorated in Aztec motif; the decoration on the side reminds me of a totem pole, patterns are painted in terracotta, green and blue. There are countless rows of keys and numerous foot pedals; imagine this, the organist is moving both hands, both feet, reading music and watching the film for cues all at the same time, now that’s incredible. We go behind the stage into the chambers, it’s warm in here and there is little room to walk, instruments are made of tin, lead, zinc, brass and wood, labels help us to discern what we are seeing.  Room after room, a maze of pipes, tubing and wire, there’s way more to this then I expected. A 25 hp Spencer turbine blower installed in the basement under the stage makes it all work. When the organ was being installed new chambers had to be built on the old stage in addition to the original chambers that already existed. We finished our tour and thanked our hosts, Cool.

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We finished off the evening with cocktails at Abicks Bar on the corner of Gilbert St and Dennis, in Detroit’s Southwest neighborhood. Manya is the current owner, at nearly 90 years old this is the only place she has ever lived. Her parents bought the bar in 1919, she was born and raised here and when she married, her husband moved in. She raised her own children here and then her grandson who these days helps run the place. This truly is a neighborhood bar; it has a vintage tin ceiling, old photos hang on the walls, there’s a pool table, juke box and a TV, if you’re interested there’s even a cigar room.The bar is the beautiful old-fashioned kind, dark wood, a big mirror and cabinets with pretty stained glass doors on each end. On any given night you will see a variety of folks stopping in for a cold beer or cocktail; hipsters, factory workers, locals and suburbanites, everybody is welcome. The music isn’t too loud, fellow patrons are friendly, it’s a cool place to relax and have a drink.

ANN ARBOR: Really Old Stuff….

20 Feb

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We stepped outside into the cold winter air, high up in the powder blue sky the sun was shining; perfect for a road trip. With so many things to see and do, Ann Arbor is always a good destination. I like Ann Arbor on a Sunday; parking is free and it is the least crowded day of the weekend. The air was frigid, so we planned on indoor activities. The University of Michigan Museum of Art (UMMA) maintains one of the oldest collections of art in the nation in university hands; collecting for 150 years it has amassed more than 18,000 art works. In 1910 the university built the Alumni Memorial Hall, it was to serve as a war memorial, home to the Alumni Association and the UMMA. As the collection grew, so did the need for more space, in 1966 the museum became the sole occupant of the building. In 2009 the museum space was enlarged by 53,000 sq. ft with the addition of the Maxine and Stuart Frankel and Frankel Family Wing; during this time the original building was also restored, new galleries and a new UMMA store were added.

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Smooth stone and simple doric columns, to me the exterior of the building looks serious. Inside the historic apse has been redone and the skylights restored, light floods the oval-shaped space. At the far end, marble statues rest upon pedestals looking as if they were awaiting my arrival, I am excited to be here. We stroll through the main floor galleries then head up the stairway; a large funky glass light fixture livens up the space. We wander from gallery to gallery, the transition from the old to the new seamless. The new wing is three stories, stairways are tucked away neatly, natural light filters in. Pieces not on display are housed in ‘open storage’ galleries, allowing the visitor to see more of the museums collections; I love the Tiffany glass. There are large amounts of Asian and African Art, a large cabinet displays stunning silver serving pieces covered with intricate designs. Ceramic vessels, tiles and platters from the Middle Eastern Collection catch my eye, Kris likes the Modern and Contemporary galleries best. We look at the American Art, prints, drawings and photos until we have seen it all; but wait, there’s still more to see……..across the street.

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If I had to guess, I would say  most Metro-Detroiters have never heard of the Kelsey Museum of Archaeology; today we’re going to change that. I think it is fascinating, a place that most people would find very interesting, even if they don’t think so!  Francis W Kelsey was a professor at the University of Michigan, in 1893 he began acquiring artifacts, thinking that they would help his students understand the ancient world. His first purchase was 108 items from an excavation site in Tunisia, that same year he bought 1,096 objects from dealers in Tunis, Rome, Capri and Sicily. As the collection grew, items began to be housed in a gorgeous Richardson Romanesque stone building named Newberry Hall. Built in 1891 as the home for the Student Christian Association, it is one of the oldest buildings on campus today. One of the unique features of this building is its original Tiffany stained glass window, one of two Tiffany windows in Ann Arbor. By 1953 Kelsey’s collections had taken over the building and it became known as the Kelsey Museum of Archaeology. In 2009 the museum grew by 20,000 sq. ft. with the addition of the William E Upjohn Exhibit Wing.

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Today the museum houses the university’s collection of more than 100,000 ancient and medieval objects including Ancient Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Islamic archaeological artifacts. On the first floor, galleries are white from top to bottom, large glass cabinets line the walls; items here date back to “BC” and Alexander The Great, it’s hard to wrap my brain around that. Statues rest on pillars out in the open, I better watch where I’m going. We see pottery, terracotta figurines and Roman glass. U of M excavated a site southwest of Cairo known as Karanis; between 1926 and 1936 nearly 45,000 objects were uncovered and sent back to Ann Arbor, the largest collection of objects outside of the Cairo Museum. We marvel at a colorfully painted mummy coffin, Greek pottery and Roman sculptures, it’s amazing all of this still exists, even more amazing, it’s right here in Ann Arbor! Jewelry in both delicate and large pieces, ‘magical’ amulets from the ancient Near East are beautiful. We take the stairs to the second level, pieces hanging on the wall relate to ancient sailors. Upstairs is more colorful, walls painted in gold and russet display items and photographs of excavations. A replica of the famous Villa of the Mysteries mural from ancient Pompeii is done in 5/6 scale; I look at the faces of the figures, it seems as though they are looking right at me, their eyes follow me. The museum holds the largest collection of Latin inscriptions in the west, we see ancient coins, Egyptian Tomb sets and Greek papyri, and it’s all real……..It’s a lot to take in. We are definitely planning on coming back.

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The museums are located on State Street across from one another, it is only a short walk to E William St and the Original Cottage Inn, lunch, here we come! Back in 1948 when Cottage Inn opened, it was the first restaurant in Ann Arbor to serve pizza, really. Outside, the orange brick building is decorated with painted ivy climbing the walls, the old-fashioned sign jutting from the entrance let’s us know we’ve arrived. Inside it smells wonderful, a mix of fresh-baked bread, spices, olive oil, and maybe a bit of pepperoni…The menu is filled with Italian and Greek dishes, and most importantly, PIZZA. Kris and I have been coming here for over 20 years, though the space itself has undergone expansions, renovations and redecoration, the food has always remained the same delicious way. We started with the antipasto salad; meats, cheeses,olives, so good. Our grilled chicken pizza arrived piping hot, mozzarella stretching all the way from pan to plate. Grilled chicken, pesto, sun-dried tomatoes, mushrooms and artichoke hearts, the crust is just as good as I remember. Few words passed between Kris and I as we ate, we had some serious eating to do.

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I believe there is some sort of gravitational pull that exists in Ann Arbor, it will always lead you to Zingerman’s! Making sure to save room for dessert, we find ourselves surrounded by sweet goodness at Zingerman’s Next Door; cakes, tortes, cookies, brownies, chocolates and gelato, it is dizzying. The February special was Mississippi Mud Pie; a chewy brownie layer topped with soft, dark chocolate ganache, toasted meringue and chocolate drizzle, need I say more? Paired with house roasted coffee for me and espresso for Kris, it is dessert nirvana. 

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Royal Oak: Dinner and a Show

14 Feb

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We find the Winter season the perfect time to catch up on live theater; with so many venues available the only hard part is choosing which one. Tonight we are headed to Royal Oak, we are making a night of it; dinner, show and dessert! We begin with dinner at Little Tree Sushi Bar on Main Street; serving Nu-Asian Cuisine, selections include dishes from Japan, Thailand and the Philippines, not to mention scores of Asian noodle dishes and some of the best sushi around. It is a Thursday evening, a table for two is readily available; we settle into our booth, a front row seat overlooking busy Main Street. We practically know the menu by heart, but cannot resist looking. We order the shrimp and crab puffs, three sushi rolls, and a glass of plum wine for Kris. Our order arrives all at once, as we had asked; I go for the shrimp and crab puffs first, tender and crisp outside the seafood and cream cheese filling is delightful. Along with the standard rolls found on every menu, every sushi bar has a selection of their own creations; two of our favorite here are the Rice Crispy: Tuna, avocado, spicy creamy sauce, rolled in tempura flakes, delicious! The Veggie Delight: spinach, cream cheese, cucumber, avocado, sweet gourd, asparagus and garlic mayo, rolled in sesame soy paper; one of the best veggie rolls we’ve eaten. We completed our order with the asparagus tempura roll, yum! We finished just in time to head over to the Baldwin Theatre for the 8:00 pm showtime.

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Located in a nondescript building on Lafayette in downtown Royal Oak sits the Baldwin Theatre; you may not realize it, but this building has been around since 1922, really. Here’s what I learned: Designed by local architect Frederick Madison the Baldwin opened in June of 1922 to much fanfare. The place was amazing; neoclassical in style it featured a grand chandelier, frescoed walls and tinted ceilings, it had seating for 1400 eager theatre-goers and  was touted as the “best appointed playhouse in Michigan outside of Detroit” by the Royal Oak Tribune. Back in the day theaters were entertainment centers; in addition to movies there were live performances, dance contests and “Ladies Free Chinaware Night”. The Baldwin played host to comedians, trained dogs, magicians, rollerskaters and escape artists. Back in the 1920’s a quarter bought you a full days entertainment (10 cents if you were a kid); the film would start at 2:30 pm, followed by Vaudeville acts, a newsreel and the theater symphony, ending at 11pm. The theatre was sold, re”deco”rated and renamed the “Washington” in 1936. In the 1950’s it also served as the community bomb shelter; they say during reconstruction a stash of water bottles and crackers turned up! 1976 brought more changes, the balcony was closed, the interior was repainted and repaired, then began showing “B” movies. In 1984 it was finally taken over by the city of Royal Oak, it was abandoned and had suffered extensive damage from a “fire not of natural origin”………..

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About this time Stagecrafters theatre company was in the market for a permanent home; the city offered the building to the non-profit group, they worked out an agreement where Stagecrafters would renovate and run the theatre. One year later the Music Man was performed in what we know today as the Baldwin Theatre. The following decades brought more improvements; a Wurlitzer Pipe Organ, new ticket office, upgraded sound system, modern rigging, new carpet, curtain and seats; restoration and growth continued. Today the Baldwin is home to the Main Stage, Stagecrafters Youth Theatre and the 2nd Stage. Now that we are all up to date…….

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Just as we arrived a blizzard broke out! We walked into the wind, faces downturned, towards the beautiful Baldwin Theatre sign on Lafayette. You enter on 5th avenue, the original Washington lobby is long gone.   Once inside we found our seats, secured them with our coats and took a look around. The place was crowded with patrons, the big buzz was the newly refurbished restrooms upstairs, hey, it’s a big deal! The theatre retains its neoclassical style, painted in soft blue and trimmed in gold it looks elegant; lots of plaster detail here. The stage is encompassed by a proscenium arch, there’s even an orchestra pit. On each side of the stage there’s a decorative painted panel featuring the Greek God Pan, he’s the God of theatrical criticism, cast photos from each show hang on the upstairs walls. The lights flash, signaling us to take our seats; the show is about to start. We are seeing Curtains, a musical/comedy/mystery piece. We are always impressed by the local talent in community theatre, singing, dancing, wonderful sets and costumes, this group is amazing. We worked our way through the show tapping our toes and trying to figure out who-done-it, it was a surprise ending! After the curtain call we bundled up, got back in the Jeep and sought out dessert.

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It was nearly 11 pm when the show ended, limiting our selection of dessert prospects. Luckily Vinotecca on Main street was open and still going strong. The long narrow space is quite attractive, a modern-earthy feel with slate tiles, stainless steel and bistro tables and booths. We were in search of something rich, chocolaty and decadent, one look at the Truffle Cake description and we were sold, it tasted even better than it sounded…..A wedge a of chocolate cake, very soft in texture, like one of those ‘lava cakes’ but even better, dark chocolate drizzle on top, served with a generous scoop of coffee ice cream and whipped cream, YUM! When we ordered our dessert the waitress informed us it was happy hour from 9 pm to close on Thursday, which meant glasses of wine were half off, who could resist that? I ordered a glass of the Tempranillo Capisto, earthy and smooth it was fabulous; what a way to end the evening! Next time you are looking for a night on the town, remember, you don’t have to look far.

Cruisin’ Woodward…..

8 Feb

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If you appreciate fine architecture, Detroit and the Metro area have a plentiful compilation of lavish buildings. When you think of a super ornate structure, most likely the first thing that comes to mind is a church…….and with good reason. Today we are in Royal Oak, we are visiting an amazing Art Deco structure that just so happens to be a church; The National Shrine of the Little Flower. Located on Woodward and 12 Mile Rd, the first thing you notice from the street is the 104 ft Charity Crucifixion Tower, which then causes you to take notice of the rest of the building, which then makes you think, “I’d like to see the inside of that place”, at least that’s what we said; so here we are. We timed it just right; mass was over and it was several hours until the next one.We parked on a side street; the day was cold but sunny, good for taking pictures. We started by walking over to the tower, a 28 ft. high figure of Christ on the cross is carved into the upper portion, additional figures are carved into the sides. Until you are actually standing up close you can’t even imagine the array of symbols, figures and designs that adorn this Art Deco building. The roof is a combination of copper and nickel-steel details; we walk around all sides taking in the different views. The church is built with Massachusetts granite and Indiana limestone, stone blocks representing the states and territories of America bear the state name and flower. We pass several exterior doors, made of brass they are exquisite; each pair embellished with a different design.

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At the main entrance we go inside, it takes a moment for my eyes to adjust to the darkness, it is quiet, peaceful. I find the interior unusual for a church of the 1930’s, it feels more modern. The sanctuary is circular; the altar, a solid block of Carrara marble from Italy, rests at the center of the church. My eyes are adjusting, I focus on a large lit piece that hangs from the center of the ceiling, the Baldacchino. Made of oak and colorful stained glass, it is trimmed in gold leaf, roses are carved into the wood, a reminder of St. Therese, the patron saint of the church. While the overall style of the church is considered Zig Zag Art Deco, there are a multitude of materials used throughout the space.  Every surface has some type of decoration; the ceiling is painted with deco designs around the edges and in the center, wood moldings are carved and painted, windows wear intricate metal coverings. Stations of the cross line the walls, be sure and see the lecturn; Corrado Parducci was hard at work here, the interior sculptural works are fine examples of his exceptional talents. Hand painted angels over the doorways are the work of artist Beatrice Wilczynski, they are lovely, as are all of her paintings, most notably the mural depicting the gifts of the Holy Spirit.

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A series of side altars are visible through octagonal shaped openings along the sides of the chapel; each represent a different saint and are unique in their design. A number of different colored marbles make up floors and walls, brass candle holders are very tall and look Art Nouveau in style, the glass a deep red, blue or green. Another small room off to the side is dedicated to baptisms; the white granite Baptismal Font, new to the church in 2001, is gorgeous, water flows gently from an upper basin into a large 8-sided pool. I’d say this room is the most Art Deco space in the interior. The church was built in two phases, the tower went up first, completed in 1931. The priest, Father Charles Coughlin has a bit of a controversial (to say the least) reputation both as a priest and radio talk show host. Thanks to his radio show, his fund-raising efforts brought in enough money to complete the church in 1936. Designed by Henry J McGill, I would say it is one of a kind.

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Further south on Woodward, in the town of Berkley is another unique building, the Vinsetta Garage.  Called the “oldest garage east of the Mississippi” it has been turned into a cool restaurant serving up great food and drinks. It’s a pretty popular place, but being Sunday, we thought we’d take our chances and see if we could get in; as luck would have it a table for two was available. What we love about this place is, there is no mistaking the fact that this was once a car repair shop; the theme is reinforced with items like a vintage dragster perched near the ceiling, a lamp made from a vintage carburetor, a metal cabinet  plastered with stickers bearing names like Cragar, Mr Gasket and TRW, photos of  funky old cars hang on the walls. Booths are vinyl button-and-tuck, the place has sort of an industrial meets 1960’s feel to it, servers are super friendly and wear Detroit themed T-shirts. The menu is filled with tempting choices, this is the same team that runs the Clarkston Union and Woodshop, so you know whatever you get it’s going to be good. We ordered the Pesto Pizza, it was out before we knew it. Coal fired chicken, lots of rocket pesto sauce, goat cheese, roasted red peppers, shallots and the house cheese blend, topping a tender thin crust, absolutely delicious!

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A bit further down Woodward in the city of Ferndale is an independent shop called Treat Dreams. Known for their innovative, or crazy, as I like to call them, flavor combinations, this is a fun place that will satisfy your sweet tooth. Serving homemade desserts like cupcakes, brownies and cookies, their house made ice cream is the star attraction. Flavors change regularly; there are usually a few flavors with a wide appeal featuring things like Oreos, M&M’s, cookie dough and the like, then there are flavors like Thanksgiving Dinner (complete with turkey & stuffing), Pistachio Wasabi, Honey Lavendar and Bananas Foster. Lots of good stuff on the menu today, I get a scoop of Chocolate Red Velvet; creamy chocolate ice cream with chunks of red velvet cupcake with cream cheese frosting mixed in, it is fabulous! Kris orders something with chocolate and coconut packed into a waffle cone and eats with delight. Not even the cold temperatures keep folks from coming in and getting a scoop of Salty Caramel or the vegan flavor of the day. Next time you  get an ice cream craving come check this place out.

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DETROIT: Gone Fishin’

4 Feb

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The earliest public aquariums in America started springing up in the late 1800’s, large wealthy cities such as Washington D.C, San Francisco and New York were the first to build such an attraction. Detroit was not far behind, calling on Albert Kahn (again) to design the building, the Belle Isle Aquarium opened in August of 1904.  Until 2005, it was the oldest continually operating public aquarium in North America. The city had fallen on hard times, attendance was practically non-existent, so the city decided to close it for good (duh!). Both the building and the fish had a loyal following; people who knew the aquarium could still be a viable attraction. Working together, raising funds, applying for grant money, volunteering countless hours cleaning and repairing the building and tanks, they finally succeeded; the aquarium re-opened in 2012, 108 years after it originally opened it’s doors. Currently you can visit on Saturday’s from 10am to 3pm, admission is free.

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We have been inside the building a few times since its closing for special events, but we had not been back since its official re-opening, until today that is……There were a large number of vehicles in the parking lot, a good sign. We paused outside, getting a good look at the building; brick and stone, it definitely has the look of a different time. The entrance is a large, double stone arch, the very top ornately decorated, the second arch, the entryway, features the face of a mythological figure in the center. On each side large stone columns rise up, thick bands of icicle-like carvings give way to richly detailed capitals. Inside I am always taken aback, the barrel-vaulted ceiling covered in gorgeous green tile makes me feel as if I am underwater. Walls are black tile, tanks are inset, a half-wall runs down the center of the room, separating the two sides, it’s like going back in time. About a dozen tanks have been restored and hold live fish, eels and frogs and a coral reef; feeding times are written in bright colors on the front of tanks. Remaining tanks are ‘dry’ and are used to display work by local artists and items from local merchants, what a great idea. One of my favorites holds all kinds of memorabilia, postcards, and photos of the aquarium in its prime; they even have the original Albert Kahn blueprints for the building on exhibit, so cool! As we check out each tank we come across a young woman hula-hooping, the plastic ring aglow with L.E.D. lights, why not? About half-way down the tunnel-like aisle the ceiling opens up into a grand dome decked out in the same green tile, a skylight opens up to the sunny sky above. We come to the end of one side, turn, and walk back up the other, large free-standing tanks are surrounded by black tiles and are covered with a metal roof, resembling a small building. The space is crowded with visitors, multi-generational families out for a Saturday afternoon in the city, digital cameras and smart phones capturing the memories. The donation box near the entrance is stuffed with dollar bills, a sign of appreciation for this wonderful experience.

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A few steps away is the Anna Scripps Whitcomb Conservatory, don’t ever pass up a chance to stop in. This building too is abuzz with people, we see some of the same faces we saw next door. Nature is always changing, there’s  something different blooming each time we come, today the Orchids are dazzling, fancy cameras rest upon tripods capturing their beauty. Clusters of grapefruit hang from branches, oranges look ready to be picked  The showhouse is winding down from the winter show, Poinsettias are still blooming in reds, pinks and whites. Soon they will be preparing for the Easter show, don’t miss it. We follow the narrow paths through the rest of the building, even a few of the cactus are in bloom. Both the conservatory and aquarium benefit from the newly formed Belle Isle Conservancy, these people volunteer their time and energy to take care of these incredible historic Detroit landmarks. 

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Time to eat! Located just off the river on Joseph Campau is a place called They Say…….Though the restaurant itself is not new, they have recently renovated and it is fantastic. It’s a two-story  brick building, the wood trim painted red, the front a series of large glass windows. Inside feels upscale; exposed brick walls decorated with bold, colorful paintings featuring Jazz artists. The bar sits in the center of this room, counters line the walls inviting you to pull up a chair and have a drink. We are seated in the dining room in a comfy booth overlooking Joseph Campau, this room is also very attractive. The menu has something for everyone, a good place to bring the family or a group, we hear their wings are awesome. I order a cup of chicken potpie soup, it’s delicious. We choose the house salad, it is huge, the lettuce is fresh and crisp. The club sandwich arrives, four triangles surrounding a mountain of french fries. I remove the toothpick from the bread, wondering if I will actually be able to fit my mouth over the point, I sink my teeth in and find it to be wonderful. The bread perfectly toasted, mayo squeezes out from the layers, the bacon is crisp, I think they grilled the turkey, there is melted cheese and the crunch of lettuce and tomato. Kris and I agree it is probably the best Club we have ever had. I go crazy eating, Kris saves room for dessert, our waitress enticed him when she told us about their homemade bread pudding, he cannot resist. A large rectangle of warm bread pudding arrives, it sits in a bourbon sauce and is topped off with a dollop of whipped cream. I can only take a bite, warm and moist it reminds me of a cinnamon roll, the sauce is excellent. I watch as Kris does his best to finish it off, he sets down the fork and asks for a box, there’s always tomorrow! It has been another great day in Detroit.

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DEARBORN: People, Pitas & Pastries….

29 Jan

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Let’s face it: The car put Detroit on the map. We are all familiar with the Big Three, Henry Ford, the Fisher and Dodge brothers and Walter P Chrysler, but there are many others who made significant contributions to the auto industry that you may not be so familiar with. Today we will visit the Automotive Hall of Fame in Dearborn; here we celebrate the people that made the automobile great. Located on Oakwood Blvd adjacent to the Henry Ford Museum this 25,000 sq. ft. building opened in 1997. The museum honors the inventors, engineers, stylists, manufacturers and dealers whose inventions and innovations and creations literally changed the world.

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In the lobby, I proceed to the desk to purchase tickets, Kris is immediately drawn to the red convertible Valiant Signet parked to the right, this is one of about 10 cars on display. He takes a few photos then we continue on to the Hall of Honor, a huge mural draws our attention. At 11 ft high and 65 ft long, the painted images show us the impact the automobile has had on the culture of the world. With the invention of the car everyday people experienced new freedom and mobility, changing the way we live, work and play. The exhibit area is in a timeline format starting with the earliest forms of transportation. Cameo photographs enable us to see the faces that go along with the innovations. The names are well-known, most became major manufacturers; Vincent Bendix produced his own brand of motor buggies, he developed the electric starter drive in 1914, then introduced the first reliable 4-wheel brake system, here’s where you go ah-ha, Bendix Brakes. Clarence Spicer developed the Universal Joint and founded Dana Corporation, Warren E Avis founded Avis Rent-a-car in 1947 at both Willow Run and Miami International airport. Exhibits are user-friendly, lots of actual items on display from an early gas engine to a couple of Richard Petty’s hats. There are some great stories here; Alice Ramsey was the first woman to drive a car across the US from New York to San Francisco. She  made the trip in a Maxwell Touring car; it took her 41 days and 11 tires to make the 3,800 mile trip back in 1909. C Harold Willis worked for Henry Ford and was responsible for designing the famous Ford script on the company emblem. He went on to start his own company Wills-Sainte Claire. Carl Fisher founded the Indianapolis Motor Speedway in 1909 and originated the concept of a coast-to-coast highway. The Lincoln Highway was America’s first cross-country highway. America was a blank slate, the combinations of all these men working together eventually created the world we live in today.

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When you are in the mood for excellent Middle-Eastern food, you come to Dearborn! We were famished so we headed to New Yasmeen Bakery on Warren Ave. The interior is divided into three sections; bakery, prepared food and dining area. We made our way to the prepared food section, two large counters are filled with hot selections and another one with cold items like baba ghanouj, hummus, vegetarian grape leaves, lentils and fatoosh. There are several workers behind the counters eager to help, we select a scoop of this and a scoop of that, a few grape leaves, then move on to the warm food. The meat pies here are awesome, you have to try them, we get two. A spinach pie, and one with cheese and something else, a few falafel, some pita and we are set. We pay at the register, grab some napkins and plastic silverware and find a seat. Very little conversation takes place, instead we dip our tender slices of pita into thick and creamy hummus, I eat my meat pie with my hands, nobody seems to notice. Some of this, a bit of that and soon our plates are empty. 

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There is no need to drive anywhere for dessert, the bakery has some of the best pastries in town. I am sidetracked by the racks spilling over with fresh-baked breads. I select a bag with 4 loaves of  date-filled yellow colored bread, it has a sweet scent. I can’t resist the shelves loaded with imported cookies and candy bars, have you ever seen a hazelnut or peanut butter Kit Kat bar? Kris is at the pastry counter taking photos, I join him there. A small section is devoted to cakes and tortes, although they are pretty we are here for more traditional sweets. Tempted by the piles of honey-soaked dough in different shapes, we choose what looks to be a turnover-type pastry with cheese and pistachio filling. I ask the man behind the counter if he likes this kind and he smiles. He places the pastry on a styrofoam plate, then spoons a thick clear syrup over top…..I better grab a few more napkins. As expected the pastry was delicious, the syrup adding a floral sweetness, the perfect ending to a delicious meal. In this area of Dearborn you feel completely removed from Detroit, it is a world all its own; come check it out!

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DETROIT: Puppets ?

23 Jan

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Detroit is a (highly underrated) mecca for entertainment. Between sports, live theater, the symphony, opera, art, concerts and special events  in the headlines, it is easy to overlook the smaller, independent things going on. Today we are taking you to the PuppetArt Theater on Grand River in downtown Detroit. This unassuming building has been quietly entertaining audiences of all ages since 1998. Founded by a group of puppeteers and artists trained in the former Soviet Union they bring their own unique magic to the stage.  We arrive early so we have time to take in the museum section of the building; we check in at the desk and are given our tickets, the curtained-entry opens, we surrender our tickets to a tall man with a smile, we have now entered the fascinating world of puppetry. There are many different kinds of puppets, most of us are familiar with hand, shadow and string varieties; here you will also see rod, floor and tabletop examples. Each puppet is an individual work of art; big or small, human or animal, musician, knight or gypsy, the detail and craftsmanship is amazing. Look closely, costumes tell us if the character is rich or poor, faces wear a variety of emotions in their expressions. Puppets have been used throughout the ages to tell stories, pass on traditions and share customs. PuppetART shows are based on folktales, legends and fairy-tales. Today we are seeing their original production based on Hans Christian Andersen’s The Snow Queen.

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We enter the 70-person theater and take two seats in the last row, the room is simple and unadorned, the long black curtain awaiting  2:00 to open. A group of young girls, Brownies, arrive with parents and siblings in tow, all excited for the show to begin. We are not the only grown-ups here without children. The room settles down, the lights go out and the show begins. The backdrop is that of a tiny winter village, snow glistens as it falls to the stage, a man (as in human) dressed in a hat and cape paces the floor, I am surprised to see a human character. All voices and music are recorded, so what we hear is what the man is thinking; he introduces us to the story, the tale unfolds. In The Snow Queen, Gerda’s best friend Kai is abducted by the Snow Queen, Gerda embarks on a cold, dangerous journey to rescue her friend. From colorful backdrops to gorgeous costumes, the beauty and artistry of the production is breath-taking. The sets are incredible, a person is a puppet in the form of a tree, the tree shifts and changes to become Gerda’s home, then Gerda and Kai arrive as hand puppets in the tree, it sounds complicated, but it’s simple and lovely. We are introduced to all forms of puppetry; a crow that walks across the stage then flies, people dressed as castles with sweeping staircases, Gerda, as a floor puppet the size of a young girl, and little teeny hand puppets that are flowers in a garden that dance and sing.Oh, and the Snow Queen herself, larger-than-life she looks like an ice princess as she glides across the floor. The tale is mesmerizing, enchanting. After the performance the audience is invited into the studio to create a puppet of their own. 

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Back outside we feed the parking meter for another two hours, it is a balmy day for January, barely under 60 degrees! We walk over to Broadway, we are having lunch at The Detroit Beer Co. Opened in 2003 they were one of the first restaurants to take a chance on Detroit’s revival, by the amount of people seated at tables, I’d say it worked out well. The space is cool, long and narrow it encompasses the first two floors of the historic Hartz Building. The brew house was custom fabricated to fit the building, with four fermentation tanks and five serving tanks they offer up to eight house beers daily. Tall windows make up the front of the space, local art hangs on the walls. We choose a high-top table near the front window. The hostess and servers are friendly and efficient, we get the rundown of the day’s specials. We place our order for a Door County Harvest Salad, the Dagwood Burger, and the People Mover Porter. Salad and burger arrived simultaneously, love that. Lots of fresh greens, fruit, cheese and nuts on the salad; the cherry maple vinaigrette is a great compliment to the mix and is delicious. The burger was prepared perfectly; BBQ sauce, Canadian bacon, cheddar cheese and onion rings on top, so good! The waffle fries were crispy and tasty too. I love a good Porter and was not disappointed in my selection. As we ate we had a good view of folks walking up and down Broadway to or from an event; the Monster Truck Show was at Ford Field, so I suspect that was cause for much of the traffic. It’s good to see the city vibrant and alive, and this is just the beginning.

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Unexpected Nashville

19 Jan

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It is our last full day in Nashville, tomorrow we point the Jeep north toward home. We head out for the day and are greeted by bright sunshine and a clear blue sky, that’s more like it! We drive over to the Farmer’s Market on Rosa L Parks Blvd to get a taste of the real Nashville. Divided into three sections there is the Farm area, Market House and Flea Market. We start at the Farm area under two large covered sheds; heavy plastic hangs in the doorway, we push our way through and are greeted with the familiar scent created by the mingling of fresh fruits and vegetables. There is one center aisle, both sides are lined with vendors offering up brightly colored produce; apples and oranges are stacked in pretty arrangements, potatoes come in white, red and purple here, onions range in size from tiny to huge. Ranchers offer up ham and sausage, there’s fresh-baked bread, artisan cheeses and a whole stall stacked with pickled veggies, jam, jelly and local honey. Someone is making kettle corn and it smells delicious. The Market House is an enclosed space that is home to an international market, restaurants and a coffee cafe. This is the place to come if you are hungry and want to try Indian, Jamaican, Asian, French or Mexican cuisine. There is no shortage of sweets; cookies, cupcakes and cheesecake are readily available, grab a cup of coffee to go along with your selection. The Flea Market is open Fri-Sun, it is Winter and Christmas shopping is done for the year leaving a small number of vendors selling their wares. From handcrafted items like jewelry and pottery to home goods and clothing you never know what you will find on any given weekend.

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We drive a little further north to the historic Germantown neighborhood, as good as everything looked at the market, we could not pass up the opportunity to indulge in one of the best cupcakes we’ve ever tasted at The Cupcake Collection. We stopped in on our last visit to Nashville, I can still remember my first bite of their Sweet Lemonade cupcake…… which led to daily visits the entire time we were in town. The bakery is in a neighborhood home; the house itself is charming, painted a deep blue with white gingerbread trim, the large porch is inviting with a table and chairs. Inside there is a short line at the counter, we peer into the glass case, searching for that Sweet Lemonade, but it’s not there……So, today we are trying something new; Sweet Potato for Kris and Wedding Cake for me…..these truly are the best cupcakes…..ever…….We ate ours on the spot, then took a stroll around the neighborhood enjoying the warmth of the sun. The buildings here were constructed from the 1830’s to present day. Following the same fate as many historic neighborhoods, it went from vital and active to run-down and abandoned by the 1970’s. Locals rediscovered this forgotten gem, they moved in, opened businesses and viola, it has turned into a desirable place to live again. Cool restaurants and independent shops continue to pop up as does new housing.

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Next up, Marathon Village. Kris and I are fond of old industrial buildings, we especially like it when someone finds an adaptive reuse for them. Once upon a time in Nashville, Southern Motor Works built the Marathon Motor Car right here in this block of buildings. Where once 4 models of touring cars were assembled you will now find commercial spaces and studios, the best part is they kept the integrity of the building and celebrate its history as a manufacturing facility; original ads are blown up poster-size and hang on hallway walls. The structure is huge, now divided into small spaces each unit is a different shape and size, all sharing a common corridor. Currently home to Garage Coffee Company, a radio station, Corsair Artisan Distillery and Taproom, and a charming space called the Old Time Pickin’ Parlor, the businesses are thriving! Down the block a little way is the building where Marathon offices were, inside is a recreated showroom floor complete with Vintage Marathon Motor Cars, how cool!

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There’s one more shop that is getting a lot of attention: Antique Archaeology. If you like old stuff, are a channel surfer or watch the History Channel regularly, you will recognize the name from the American Pickers television show; this is the location of their Nashville shop. The place is crazy with people, a live band is playing Bluegrass music, a slew of iPhones take photographs of the place. The shop is much smaller than expected, antiques are everywhere from floor to ceiling, it’s hard to focus on one thing. I find myself turning sideways to walk between people, they have some fascinating pieces; old porcelain signs, Indian motorcycles. Light fixtures are hanging from rafters along with vintage bicycles, suitcases, auto-related items such as grills and name plates are scattered about. Folks stand in long lines to purchase t-shirts, hats and other souvenirs from the show. Time has gotten away from us, it will be a late lunch.

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The 12South district is booming, there’s a walkable main street area with a wonderful variety of shops and restaurants.  Urban Grub looked interesting, a funky modern exterior with an outdoor fireplace we decided to give it a try. A large dining room sits to the right, a cozy bar area to the left. The menu serves up contemporary fare; we ordered the Grubaletta sandwich, smoked pork, capicola, mortadella and a spicy tapenade, it was really flavorful. The Berries & Butternut Salad was huge! Mixed greens, berries, nuts goat cheese and a tiny butternut squash quesadilla, the jalapeno agave vinaigrette was delicious. When we were finished we visited shops up and down the street ending at Frothy Monkey for coffee and dessert. I find independent coffee shops in Nashville are much more likely to serve hot food along with coffee and sweets than places in the north. The place was packed, it smelled good, everything looked good too. We decided on a brownie warmed up and drizzled with chocolate sauce, we grabbed our drinks and settled into a booth; it was all excellent. Definitely a place we’ll come back to in the future. 

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And so we will end our trip to Music City with the Opryland Hotel, everyone knows the importance of a grand finale. Remember in the Wizard Of Oz, when Dorothy’s house slams to the ground? She comes walking out, looks around and says “I don’t think we’re in Kansas anymore”. Well, that’s kind of what this is like. We enter the area called The Delta, a New Orleans-style village complete with two and three-story buildings trimmed in fanciful wrought iron. Giant Palm trees sprout from the ground, trunks decked out in colorful LED lights for the holidays. Wide walkways lead us through the ‘town’ lit by old fashioned light posts, Southern Oaks grow tall, leafy plants and flowers are everywhere, and then there’s the river. Yep, I said river, a quarter-mile long as a matter of fact, you can tour the river on a Delta flatboat, do it! I’d say the boats seat about 20 people, a guide points out interesting focal points as you glide by a waterfall and lots of lovely scenery. In the distance we see a gorgeous antebellum-style mansion, it’s 20,000 sq. ft. and yet it just sort of blends in. This area is what I would call the shopping district, and is it ever charming! There are tables and chairs scattered about the lanes, antique, southern-looking fountains dot the space. Shops run the gamut from exclusive ladies shops to T-shirt stores and Haagen Dazs ice cream to a coffee shop and casual eating spots.

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The larger of the two areas is The Cascades, a virtual tropical paradise. Narrow pathways lead us through thick vegetation several stories high, there are at least ten different waterfalls, nine acres of indoor gardens and more varieties of Poinsettias then I ever dreamed existed. The entire hotel is a glass-domed interior space that rises 15 stories high, white lights drape down from the top of the dome creating an incredible visual experience. This is the land of the water feature; pools with fountains pop up intermittently as we traverse the grounds, tiny streams line walkways, we walk behind a waterfall, it is stunning. As far as dining is concerned restaurants here are higher end. Check out the Falls Bar and Lounge, it’s like sitting on an island eating tapas and having cocktails. Walkways continue at several different levels, taking you from secluded tiny paths to more public spaces where towering Christmas trees draw the attention of every camera in the place, it is one beautiful sight after another, a pretend world where everyday the weather is perfect.

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Time to trade in the Music City for the Motor City, we’ll make the eight hour trek in the morning. Nashville is a fun, cool city with much to explore. Having gotten to know her a little better, we bid the city adieu……next time we’ll try something different, I hear they have some music….

NASHVILLE: Not Just Music City

14 Jan

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We awoke to a chilly Nashville morning, refreshed after a (much-needed) good night’s sleep. We were staying at the historic Union Station Hotel, this place is gorgeous! Downstairs the lobby stood vacant making it perfect for picture-taking. When you enter the lobby your eyes are immediately drawn to the spectacular 65-foot barrel-vaulted ceiling, made of 128 pieces of “luminous prism” stained glass, it is stunning. The lobby itself is 3 stories high, there are large limestone fireplaces at each end on the main level, on the second level bas-relief panels on each end depict transportation; a steam locomotive on one end, the other a horse-drawn chariot. Down the length of the east and west walls a series of ten limestone arches stand tall, decorated with angels of commerce they each hold a symbol of an item coming from Tennessee; wheat, books, whiskey, etc. Decorated in shades of yellow, gold and terracotta the large space has a warmth and coziness to it, divided into several seating areas the furniture is comfy and encourages one to linger and look about. It is Christmas time, a large decorated tree stands in one area, garlands are draped over wrought iron railings that surround the balcony levels. Outside it looks like a castle, chunky limestone and tall towers. The architectural design of the building is Richardson Romanesque, the interior is dressed up in Art Nouveau style; from the patterns inlaid on the glossy marble floors to the free-standing pieces of furniture, sconces, light fixtures and railing designs, the styles blend beautifully. The train station opened  in 1900 as part of the Louisville and Nashville Railroad Company, one of the most unusual features at the time were the two alligator ponds on the track level, gee, wonder why that didn’t last…..By 1979 the building was abandoned, in 1986 it was resurrected and turned into a hotel, an amazing $11 million renovation was completed in 2007. Check this place out, book a room, or just stop in for a drink.

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Across the street stands another architecturally significant Nashville structure;  formerly the main post office, it has been home to the Frist Center For The Visual Arts since 2001. Originally opened in 1934 it screams Art Deco. The exterior is a simple streamline design in white Georgia marble with a little Minnesota granite, but inside it’s an entirely different story. When we walk inside my eyes look from walls to ceiling to floor, all of it ornate. The main lobby is long and narrow, on the ceiling a linear design in black, white and silver runs the length of each wall. The design continues through the center, aluminum and white glass fixtures hang from square black medallions. Walls and floors are marble, a greyish-tan with black marble accents. Incredibly detailed aluminum grillwork pieces cover the upper portions of the walls, each one contains an icon such as an airplane, locomotive, book press, a hammer and anvil are just some of the 20 represented. Everywhere I look I marvel, it is elegant, magnificent. Hard to imagine it was built during the depression. The huge sorting rooms had high ceilings, perfect for turning into galleries. This is a non-collecting museum, so the 24,000 sq ft of gallery space changes exhibits about every 8 weeks. The Center features local, state and regional artists along with major US and international exhibits. By coincidence they were featuring German Expressionism from the DIA collection. It was kind of fun seeing “our” paintings hang in another museum. This is another building you shouldn’t miss.

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For lunch we drove back to the historic Belmont-Hillsboro area, there are lots of cute little places to choose from. Lured in by the promise of good Mexican food we chose Chago’s Cantina. Our waitress was very friendly and guided us through the menu. We picked two house specialties; the carnita stuffed plantain: they take a plantain, split it down the middle and grill it till it’s all warm and caramelized, they pile on  flavorful, tender shredded pork and then top it off with a honey and chili glaze, yum! Our other item was the Chago Roll: grilled peppers, onions, guacamole and rice wrapped up in a wonderful carne asada. They slice it up like a sushi roll, place it on a bed of black beans and drizzle poblano cream on top, delicious! Good choice by us.

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We weren’t far from Centennial Park and the Parthenon, so we went there next. Back in 1897 Nashville hosted the Grand Centennial Exposition, a 100th anniversary celebration of Tennessee’s statehood (actually 101 years, but that’s another story…). Nicknamed the “Athens of the South” because of the number of learning institutions, they used that as the inspiration for the exposition’s theme. The centerpiece, of course, was the full-scale replica of the Parthenon. Originally built as a temporary exhibit, its popularity influenced the decision to leave it standing; the only problem was the materials used were not intended to withstand the elements for an extended period of time. Beginning in 1920 the city began the long process of rebuilding the structure with permanent materials; today it is the world’s only full-size replica of the Greek Parthenon, it is really something to see! The exterior pediment reliefs were created from direct casts of the originals, just incredible. Inside make your way to the upper level, the most mind-blowing feature is the 42′ tall statue of the Goddess Athena. I for one can say I’ve never seen anything like it. There she stands a wonder in gold; a statue of Nike (victory) in one hand and her shield in the other; look closely and you’ll see a serpent slithered up against her shield. The creation of Allen LeQuire, Athena was put in place in 1990 and has been adorned (and photographed) by multitudes of people ever since. Athena is the largest indoor statue in the western hemisphere.The rest of the floor is also a replica of the original building; the 7-ton bronze entrance doors are impressive and the largest of their kind in the world. Back on the lower level the art gallery exhibits its permanent collection, 63 paintings of 19th and 20th century American artists from the James M Cowan collection. Along with other temporary exhibits this area functions as an art museum. This is certainly a one-of-a-kind attraction.

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We took a drive across the Cumberland River to one of Nashville’s oldest neighborhoods, East Nashville. Populated with Victorian-style homes, the area is undergoing a resurgence. We strolled down the lanes taking in the charming, colorful houses, many of them newly painted. There are a couple of business districts just a short walk away for residents, making it a very appealing place to call home. Shops, restaurants and galleries are all the independent sort; Five Points Collaborative is a collective of 8 tiny modular (168-320 sq ft) store spaces that sell everything from beads to apparel. We took our time going in and out of antique shops, galleries and vintage stores; items are eclectic, fun and unique, I bought a pair of earrings made from old bottle caps. When dinner time rolled around we went straight to Far East Nashville on Fatherland Street for Vietnamese. We eat here whenever we are in town, the food is always fabulous. Unfortunately for you our hunger got the best of us and we ate our entire meal before we realized Kris had not shot any pics of the meal…..oops. You’ll just have to trust us on this one, the food tastes as good as it looks! That’s all for today, can’t wait to see what tomorrow will bring.

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On The Road To Nashville

8 Jan

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Spread out along the banks of the Cumberland River lies one of America’s legendary cities: Nashville TN. Probably the first few things that come to mind when you hear” Nashville”, are country music, cowboy hats, boots and the Grand Ole Opry. While all of these things are well represented, it only scratches the surface of this southern belle. Kris and I have been visiting the Music City since the late 1990’s, we have gotten to know her over time, as one does a friend, discovering the many facets  that make up her personality. We had not been back since the devastating flood in May 2010, with the luxury of time to travel between the holidays we expanded our Midwest boundaries and headed south. The local snowfall had delayed our departure,we got out of town later than we had planned, which meant we had no choice but to take the freeway down, darn! While traffic moved at a good pace through Michigan and northern Ohio, in Cincinnati we were at a crawl, Louisville was no better, after a quick lunch stop it was back on I-65.

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When we  reached Bowling Green KY we took a well deserved break to visit the National Corvette Museum. This non-profit museum is dedicated solely to the Corvette nameplate; there are 70 Corvette models on display along with photos, movies, advertisements, models and all sorts of memorabilia. Exhibits are laid out in an easy to follow path, life-size dioramas portray era-correct settings; a large Mobil gas and service station features several beautiful models. I am fond of the older models, the dashboards are so cool, and I love all the chrome; how refreshing to see automobile interiors in bright colors instead of the grey, black or tan of today. One section tells us the history of the Corvette assembly plants from the early days of 1953 when the first 300 cars were built in Flint Michigan to the current plant located right across the road from the museum building; it is the only place in the world Corvette’s are built. Tours of the assembly plant are available Monday-Thursday.

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There are engines with names like L88 and L84, race cars, convertibles and most interesting, concept cars; Chevrolet donated the 1-millionth Corvette to the museum. As we wind through the space we find ourselves in an unusual room that is home to the Corvette Hall of Fame, in it we find images of the likes of Harley Earl, the father of the Corvette, along with famed driver Dick Guldstrand, Larry Shinoda, Bill Mitchell and of course Zora-Arkus-Duntov among many others. The museum is a wonderful tribute to “America’s Sports Car”, and well worth a visit.

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Finally arriving in Nashville, we quickly check into our room then immediately head to the village of Hillsboro for dinner and a movie. Hillsboro is one of those super quaint neighborhoods we often find bordering a big city. I read that it was a street car suburb as the trolley line went right down 21st Ave, which today is the main street. Comprised of a 4 block radius, the streets are lined with lovely boutiques, galleries, cafes, specialty stores and even an independent bookstore. You can do your banking, drop off your dry cleaning, eat lunch, pick up an espresso machine and have a local beer all on the same block. Homes were built between 1910 and 1940, they are soooo charming, we had to take a walk and get a closer look. Many are brick, and all have porches, windows are beveled glass, doors are ornate wood, the Arts and Crafts style is most prevalent. Both Vanderbilt and Belmont Universities are within walking distance giving the neighborhood a lively, vibrant feel.

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Zumi Sushi was our restaurant of choice, located on Belcourt it is just a short walk from the movie theater; we have eaten here before and the food has always been superb. The dining room was bustling, with the inclement weather, mainly cold and rain, nobody wanted to sit in the enclosed patio tonight. The menu has many Japanese favorites to choose from including Udon, edamame and bento boxes;  we were here for the sushi! We started out with the avocado tempura, yum, and then chose a few specialty rolls; washed down with Zumi’s own mango sweet tea, the meal was delicious.

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With just a few minutes before the movie was to start we walked over to the Belcourt Theatre, they were featuring the work of Alfred Hitchcock, showing 24 of his films in 23 days; we were seeing Vertigo tonight. The theatre itself is not one of the fancy ones with gobs of ornate plaster, chandeliers or an elegant lobby, instead paintings from local artists decorate the plain gray walls. Originally opened in 1925 as the Hillsboro Theatre it showed silent movies and sat 800 people. It’s biggest stint came in 1934-1936 when it was home to the Grand Ole Opry. Through the years it went through changes from film to a playhouse and then back to film again before finally closing down. In 1999 it re-opened as a non-profit cultural institution showing independent, documentary, world and classic cinema. The lobby is small but efficient, this is where tickets are sold along with an amazing concession counter. Here at the Belcourt you are not limited to popcorn, candy and soda pop, you can indulge in hot dogs, bratwurst and a full bar offering beer, wine and spirits. Having stuffed ourselves full of sushi, we filed into the auditorium and settled into our seats. The movie trailers began, we were happily surprised that they were vintage Hitchcock trailers, the man definitely had a flair for drama……By the time Vertigo came to an end we were completely exhausted, thankfully it was only a short drive to the hotel where we fell into bed and immediately to sleep. Tomorrow will be full of new adventures.

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