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DETROIT : Fall fun at Eastern Market

1 Nov

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No matter the season or what the weather is doing, to me any Saturday is perfect to go to Eastern Market. On our most recent visit the sky was light blue, colorful leaves were still clinging to trees and the market was decked out in Autumn’s glory. It was just a couple of days until Halloween and pumpkins were plentiful, from pie-sized to fully painted we had our pick. Huge bins were piled high with any variety of gourds or squash you could imagine. As we walked from shed to shed the sweet smell of apples filled the air; Gala, Fugi, Mutsu, Honeycrisp, and Pinata to name a few. Did you know Michigan grows more variety of apples than any other state? Baskets of them covered the table tops of individual vendors creating a sort of rainbow of apples.

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It is the end of the harvest in the Great Lakes State and here the yield was gathered and available for purchase; potatoes, peppers, red onions, and the last tomatoes of the season. It wouldn’t be fall without apple cider, would you like it hot or cold? Indian corn, pomegranates, and mass quantities of mums are a delight to see. Buskers perform in and out of sheds, the one-man-band was simply amazing playing several instruments and singing Detroit versions of  old Folk  songs. The somber notes of the saxophone player hung in the chilly air as passerby’s dropped money into his red-lined instrument case. Giant apples decorated by local artists stand in the center of aisles celebrating the fondness of this much appreciated fruit.Every weekend brings something new and it’s always a good time.

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Besides the market itself, this area is also lined with produce and specialty food stores, antique shops, restaurants, and a great little boutique on Riopelle called Savvy Chic. Take a peek inside this charming home decor shop; there is always a wonderful candle scenting the air, items are placed in a thoughtful and pleasing way throughout the 2-room shop. There are pieces for entertaining at home, hostess gifts, unique jams, jewelry and scented soaps and lotions. There are pieces of furniture both new and repurposed, cards, and books. Take your time as you browse so you don’t miss anything, it’s a nice mix of old and new pieces.

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                                                                                                    We had one more stop to make before heading home, Rocky Peanut on Russell. Established in 1969 in Historic Eastern Market this family business is known for, you guessed it, fresh roasted peanuts. They purchase their nuts directly from the growers  and then roast and season them in a number of different ways, each being fresh and delicious. Stop in and have a look around, besides nuts they sell many items in bulk; spices, dried fruit, grains, and baking supplies. The most popular section has to be the bulk candy area; from the old favorite Swedish fish, giant jaw breakers, Hershey kisses, to retro favorites like Bit-O-Honey, no wonder sweet-tooth’s flock here. Recently added is a section of specialty made in Michigan products, I highly recommend Brownwood Farms Cherry Honey Mustard; great for dipping pretzels, but you have to try it on a sandwich! Whether your looking for an old favorite like Bosco, or you need a pinch of that seldom used spice you can find it at Rocky’s.

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DETROIT: Model T’s, BBQ & Beer

28 Oct

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Detroit has an impressive industrial history; from building ships and trains to stoves and of course, the automobile. The Ford Piquette Avenue Plant  built in 1904, is a City, State and Federal Historic Site and a National Historic Landmark. It is significant for several reasons; Here the Model T was designed and the first 12,000 plus produced, Ford Motor Company set the world production record by assembling 101 Model N’s, R’s and S’s in 1908 in a ten hour day, and this building is where the methods and ideas came about that would become the moving assembly line.The museum points out the importance of the building and the magnitude of what went on here and how it shaped history. The structure itself is over 67,000 square feet, there are three floors and 362 of the original 395 original windows are still in place. Ford did everything here from the drafting to the assembly.

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Start your tour on the second floor at the admissions desk; Guided tours are available or you you can grab a self-tour guide from the desk. View the video to put you in the mindset of Detroit 1904-1910. If you do the self guided tour be sure and read the information packet provided to fully understand the building and what went on here. I really like coming here, I think it’s so cool to be standing on the same floor as the likes of Henry Ford, James Couzens, John and Horace Dodge, William Durant and so many others once did. There are beautifully restored cars on display, they are all on loan, so you’re never sure what you will see that day. Check out the 2004 Ford GT, this is the actual car that set the world’s speed record that year. The museum makes changes through the season with different exhibits, they had just taken down the Fashion and the Automobile exhibit, we were disappointed we missed it. There is always something new in the works currently volunteers are reconstructing the Experimental Room exhibit, and a new Ford dealership exhibit will be installed soon. Two floors are open for you to wander through, it’s really fascinating and it’s the only early automotive factory in Detroit that is well preserved and open to the public. The museum closes for the winter, but you have until November 20th to visit.

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The sun was out and the temperature was pleasant enough to eat outdoors, so we drove over to Slows-to-go on Cass Ave for lunch. With the popularity of their Michigan Ave location and subsequent crowds this gives us hungry diners another option. With their recently installed outdoor wooden tables and benches you can eat right there if you wish. The menu is the same, as is the unbelievably delicious food.I highly recommend the Reason; tender and moist pulled pork piled high on Texas toast, topped with cole slaw and dill pickle strips, yum! The Mac & Cheese is always a good choice for a side, creamy sauce with a hint of heat, we ordered a side of potato salad too, good stuff!  I know it sounds crazy, but every time I eat here I am amazed at how delectable everything is. It was great to be sitting outside in October enjoying a scrumptious meal.

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For the last 5 Sunday’s the West Village neighborhood has opened a “Pop-Up” Biergarten called Tashmoo. Located on Van Dyke and occupying 2 empty lots it has been wildly successful. We finally had the opportunity to check it out, I’m so glad we did. As we drove down the residential area of Van Dyke, we knew we were getting close when we started seeing all of the cars parked alongside the street. What a perfect setting on a glorious Fall day; Mature trees line the street, beautiful homes grace the neighborhood, and a slight chill in the air. As you approach the fenced in lots the name Tashmoo is called out in bright red letters across the front, a series if patio stones lead you to the entrance where you must show your ID and receive one of those paper bracelets if you are going to drink beer.

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It was well organized, after you put on your bracelet proceed to the ticket table, tickets are $2 each, you trade them in to the bartender for a glass of your choice of several Michigan beers, easy. It was late afternoon and the Lions were playing at home, we made the right decision by going before the game let out. Tables and benches are made of 2×4’s, tables are topped with discarded doors, as is the bar itself. People were everywhere, communal tables were filled to capacity, dozens of folks were playing the Corn-Hole games, groups of friends were gathered together having a beer and catching up. We had our tickets in hand and made our way to the bar, thankfully the lines moved quickly. We tried the Founders Porter, and both found it enjoyable. What’s a Biergarten without food? No problem, there were two food booths; People’s Pierogi Collective was there serving up bite sized pierogi with your choice of Kraut, Potato or Sour Cherry filling, 3 for $5. We tried one of each, though all were delicious, I  was especially fond of the sour cherry. Corridor Sausage had their booth right next door and seemed to be very popular, offering a variety of sausages with unique toppings and meat and cheese plates that paired perfectly with your favorite beer. 

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This was my first Biergarten experience so I wasn’t sure what to expect, it was absolutely wonderful. The crowd was mellow, the name Tashmoo means “meeting place” and that’s exactly what it is; a place for friends to gather and a place where strangers sit down side by side and make new friends. Every age group was represented; toddlers sat on blankets atop the lush green grass, school age children tried their hand at Corn-Hole, and grown-ups played board games in the afternoon sun. This was the last Sunday for the season, I am already looking forward to next year.

             

Scenic back-roads: Ann Arbor to Hell

26 Oct

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 In Michigan you have to take advantage of every nice day that comes along, so when presented with a beautiful Autumn day jump in the car and take a drive. The Ann Arbor area has some of south eastern Michigan’s most scenic roads, so that’s where we headed.  First stop lunch. Located on S Division at Packard( Krazy Jim’s is now located at 304 S Ashley St) is a tiny unassuming little storefront with a bright red awning. You’d never know by looking at it that this place has been serving up some of the best burgers around since 1953. This is the home of Krazy Jim’s Blimpy Burger, the burgers have won numerous “best of” awards for years and was even featured on “Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives” back in 2008. There’s a reason for all of this attention: these guys know hot to make burgers, they even grind their own meat.

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There are certain rules to ordering here, which of course, we were not aware of. If you aren’t doing it right, they’ll let you know, and being a first-timer is no excuse. You order cafeteria style, each patron is give a tray that you slide along the counter, stopping at each station, or cook. First up, the fryer; what will it be? Fries, onion rings, or a pile of mixed veggies battered and deep fried. Next, tell them how many patties you’d like; 2, 3, 4, or 5, you must also choose your bun at this point. After that is your choice of grilled items, I went with onions, hot peppers, and mushrooms, the list of options is long and you have to think fast if you don’t want to be scorned. Cheese on your burger? Finally, choose your toppings, such as olives, tomatoes, or pickles, followed by condiments. Finally the whole burger is wrapped up in one of those wax paper sheets; the bun gets steamed from the warmth of the burger and the cheese gets gooey and slides out from under the bun. We took our tray loaded with 2 burgers, fries and a pile of veggies over to the window seats and dug in, now I know what all the fuss is about. We finished lunch and headed North on Main street to Huron River Drive , the road starts just as Main is merging onto M-14 , don’t blink or you’ll miss it .

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Huron River Drive is one of the prettiest roads around, it hugs a portion of  the Huron River as it twists and turns through 5 counties and 13 Metro Parks and State Recreation Areas. The river travels a total of 136 miles to the mouth of Lake Erie and is the only state designated scenic river in south east Michigan. We left downtown Ann Arbor and headed north west on Huron River Drive, the scenery is picturesque, especially this time of year. Canoes and kayaks paddle along the calm water, groups of cyclists hold tight to the shoulder as swans float along gracefully. Large windowed homes watch over the activity from their perch up on the hilltops. The view changes with each curve of the road and it’s wonderful. The speed limit is low, 35, and there are no stop signs in this section so you can truly enjoy the ecologically diverse surroundings. Huron River Drive ends in Dexter,  from there we hung a left, cut through town and continued on to Jenny’s Farm Market.

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Jenny’s has been one of our favorite places to visit in Autumn for years. You enter the market area through a covered patio, here you will find glass jars filled with items like sweet hot pickles, a variety of salsa’s, jams, pickled vegetables, maple syrup and apple butter. Walk up to the counter to purchase a gallon of cider and Jenny’s delicious pumpkin donuts, check out the homemade pies and pumpkin bread too. Make your way back outside to visit the animals; donkeys, horses, baby cows and goats all vie for your attention (well, ok they may be looking for food). The animals are friendly and you are close enough that you can pet them too, they’re all so cute. Other activities include a straw maze, hayrides and pony rides for kids, everyone seems to be enjoying themselves here. If you’re in need of decorative items for your home, look no further; cornstalks, mums, and of course an abundance of pumpkins are available.

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From the market we took lovely Dexter-Pinckney Road north; this stretch of road winds through the countryside passing small lakes, charming homes and marshy areas. We made our left on Darwin Road and knew we were going straight to Hell, Hell Michigan that is.  With a name like Hell you have to make the most of it, and the owners of Screams Ice Cream and Miniature Golf have done just that! Inside Screams every day is Halloween; decorations, costumes, and scary masks. There is also a great variety of “Hell” T-shirts, to let everyone know you’ve been to, well…..Hell. We passed on the ice cream and played miniature golf instead.  When it comes to miniature golf, except for the rare miracle shots where I have gotten a hole-in-one I suck, my husband on the other hand plays well, and always wins. The 18 hole course continues the campy Halloween/haunted theme, it is clever, and a lot of fun. Outside there are several large sheets of plywood painted with scenes and a devil or Big Foot with the face missing, just waiting for you to insert yours for those awesome souvenir photos. To one side of Screams runs Hell Creek where there is a small dam, the Dam Site Inn restaurant sits here in case get hungry on your travels. If you find yourself with nothing to do on a gorgeous Autumn day, go to Hell.

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Rochester Cider Mill, Van Hoosen Farm, Chomp

21 Oct

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It’s already mid-October and we haven’t nearly had our fill of cider and donuts. Fortunately southeastern Michigan is laden with wonderful apple orchards and cider mills. The Rochester Cider Mill on N Rochester Rd has been treating families to delicious apple cider for over 30 years. When you are here you feel as though you are out in the country, but in reality you are only about 2 miles north of downtown Rochester.

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Inside you are taken with the aroma of fresh apples, cider, and fried donuts, the quintessential perfume of Autumn. They have a lot to choose from; donuts come in plain, cinnamon sugar, powdered sugar, blueberry, chocolate glazed, and our favorite maple glazed. The maple donuts are so delicious, you have to try one (or a whole dozen) ! They also make apple crisp, and pies, everything is homemade. Caramel apples, Michigan made maple syrup and honey is also available. Be sure and walk around a bit inside; beautiful Autumn displays decorate the space. Haystacks are piled up high and adorned with brightly colored mums in full bloom and gourds in funky shapes and colors. Bunches of Indian corn hang along the wall side by side with antique farm tools. Long tables topped with white paper bags spill over with several varieties of fresh picked apples. A vintage stove holds half gallon containers of home grown popcorn, they have something for everyone. After you have made your purchases have a seat outdoors at one of the picnic tables to enjoy your cider and donuts in the fresh country air.

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The Rochester Hills Museum at Van Hoosen Farm is located in what was originally Stony Creek Village.  Avon Township, which is now Rochester and Rochester Hills is the oldest community in Oakland County. The first settlers  came from New York and New England, this was a typical farm community made even more attractive with the close proximity of the Clinton River, Stony Creek and Paint Creek, the museum shares with us the history of Rochester. 

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The 16 acres of grounds are lovely, and it doesn’t get better than this time of year with the trees draped in reds, golds and oranges. In early October Van Hoosen farms hosts their annual Stonewall Pumpkin Festival. Everyone is invited out for a day of pumpkin carving and fun. Then from 7-9pm the pumpkins are lit and placed on the stone wall, it is quite a sight!  Many folks leave their work of art on display and the museum leaves them out for all to enjoy, I love going out there and checking them out. You can take a stroll along Stony Creek, or have a seat under the gazebo; the scenery is picturesque any direction you look.

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Start your tour in the museum, for a small fee ($5.00 for adults), you can visit the museum and tour the farmhouse. You have to plan it though, as home tours are given at 1:30 and 3:00 Friday and Saturday only. Located in what once was the dairy barn,the museum is top-notch; gleaming knotty pine floors and wonderful exhibits take you back in time to when mills were water-powered and ground your grain into flour.  A lot went on in this town, can you imagine back in 1907, 8 passenger trains and 25 freight trains stopped in Rochester every day? Van Hoosen Farm produced and sold milk and other dairy products such as ice cream, and cottage cheese. It’s a very interesting museum to visit, no matter what area you are from.  

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The farm house tells the story of 5 generations of the Taylor-Van Hoosen families, the women in this family were amazing! The house itself was built in several stages through the years, it has been maintained perfectly and is simply charming. The building itself has been restored, most of the furnishings are original. Pictures on the walls put faces to the names of the families who lived here, items they picked from travels and from past generations reflect who they were. A tour guide takes you through the timeline of the home and its occupants. Both Bertha and Sarah were strong women; ahead of their time, they changed the world and how it did things. The house is filled with little details; electricity in unexpected places , hidden doorways, and fascinating tales. It’s a great way to spend an afternoon.

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Downtown Rochester has changed through the years, but still has that old fashioned appeal. Restaurants, shops and galleries line Main Street, so when it comes to eating, you have several options. We chose a place at the south end of town named Chomp. Family owned, this deli, grille, and juice bar has been opened for about a year now. Classified as “healthy” fast food, the menu has tons of choices from soup and salads to sandwiches and burgers, with plenty of vegetarian choices in the mix. Ok, the Avocado Burger sound too good to pass up, so we ordered it. Kris really, really wanted the fries, but I had too much guilt from the donuts we ate earlier in the day, so we had the classic salad instead. The burgers are made from sirloin and cooked to order, ours was topped with avocado, bacon. blue cheese, sauteed onion, lettuce and tomato; thank goodness we got the salad, right!  We enjoyed both items, sitting on stools along the counter facing Main Street. There’s something fun about a window seat where you can look out and see what’s going on.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 

DETROIT: Elmwood Cemetery, Red Smoke & Astoria Bakery

6 Oct

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Detroit is home to some magnificent cemeteries; we have spent time in them walking around the beautiful grounds, looking at monuments with incredible details, and reading the names of people whom so many streets are named after. Today we were joined by friends to take a guided tour.

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Elmwood Cemetery was established in 1846, it is the oldest non-denominational cemetery in Michigan; Mount Auburn cemetery in Cambridge MA was it’s inspiration. When Frederick Law Olmsted was in Detroit working on Belle Isle, he was asked to come in and give his ideas on how to improve the design and layout of the park; we have him to thank for the many scenic vistas in Elmwood. The cemeteries main buildings are the Gatehouse, built in 1870 in the Victorian Gothic style, and the Chapel built in 1856 in the Norman Gothic style, both are made of limestone and are stunning. The grounds themselves are gentle rolling hills with some unusual and rare fauna enhancing the scenery, it’s really quite lovely. Olmsted said “Elmwood is the kind of place we call peaceful, it invites rest and contemplation”, I couldn’t agree more.

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Elmwood has a great deal of historical significance; There are 6 governors, 30 mayors, judges, doctors, and businessmen entombed here. Some names you may recognize: Lewis Cass, Russell Alger, Elijah Brush, Edwin Denby, Mother Waddles, and Coleman Young. A special lot was designated for those who fought in the Civil War. A creek runs through the valley, originally called “Parents Creek”, it was renamed “Bloody Run” when the Indians led by Pontiac rebelled against British troops. They say Parent Creek ran red from all of the British blood that flowed into it, thus giving it the name The Battle of Bloody Run. The trustees of Elmwood have preserved this historic section of the cemetery. Mausoleum Row is a series of 5 private mausoleums built into a hillside standing side by side ; Prominent family names are etched into the gray granite, ornate doors and windows decorate the structures adding architectural interest. Here monuments come in all shapes and sizes; Celtic crosses, obelisks of varying heights reach up to the sky, female statues grieve loved ones as they are perched upon a bases bearing the name of the deceased, and enchanting angels adorn family memorials. From simple elegance to extremely ornate I could walk for hours taking them all in. Tour guides are filled with fascinating stories, I love being able to connect the dots between the people and the places, it enriches my experience even more. CLICK HERE for slideshow of Elmwood.

October is Cemetery Tour Month with Preservation Wayne, I highly encourage you to check their website and see what tours are available. They are also doing a Haunted Fort Wayne Tour towards the end of the month.

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Lunch was next on the agenda, the tour ran a little long so we were extra hungry. We had made up our minds to eat at Red Smoke in Greektown, and because we were sort of in between lunch and dinner we had no problem getting in. The restaurant is housed in a 2-story historic building on Monroe, the floor plan is open, you can see right up to the second level where an over-sized mobile dangles red and pink cut-outs of pigs. The decor is contemporary; stained concrete floors, light colored wood, black chairs and indirect lighting, very nice. The menu offers a nice variety of BBQ fare, it all sounds so good! There were four of us at our table, all together we ordered the Rib Tips with homemade spicy potato chips, a brisket and pulled pork combo, the Bar B Q Beef Brisket sandwich on Texas Toast, the cole slaw, corn relish and Macaroni and cheese. It was all delicious, my favorite side was the Mac & Cheese; the noodles were cooked perfectly, the sauce creamy, and the topping had a little crunch to it, one of the best I’ve had. We had the Jalapeno Cheddar Corn Bread Skillet for an appetizer, scrumptious, I definitely recommend trying it. The two favorite sauces at our table were the Roasted Poblano and the Michigan Cherry Molasses.

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If you’ve ever been to Greektown chances are you’ve been to Astoria Bakery. Established in 1971 Astoria’s is famous for its splendid baked goods; it has been featured on the Food Network, and is the go-to place for out-of town visitors and locals alike. Come through the door, the left wall of the store is a long glass case filled with mouthwatering items. What are you in the mood for? There are the traditional Greek pastries; Baklava, Birds Nest, Pistachio Baskets, and Walnut Rolls. Maybe you’d prefer a napoleon, macaroon, cannoli, rumball, cookie, slice of cheesecake or torte. We had a pecan pie brownie, fabulous! They also serve ice cream and coffee drinks, you can have a seat and eat in, or fill a white cardboard box to go. The place is always buzzing with activity; don’t be put off if there is a line, these guys are pros, you’ll have your order in no time.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  

Belle Isle: Statues & Monuments

27 Sep

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Belle Isle is often referred to as the Crown Jewel of Detroit’s public park system, I say it is a jewel with many facets. Originally settled by French colonists in the 18th century, Detroit city fathers purchased the island in 1879 for $200,000 from the Campau family. There is the very public side of the island; the Scott Fountain, Casino, Dossin Great Lakes Museum, Conservatory, Giant Slide, and the picnic pavilions. There are also a number of areas and things that go unexplored by the average visitor. Our goal today was to drive around the island pointing out things you may not have noticed or even knew they existed; to take a walk through the nature of the island, and to share some of the 5 magnificent miles of scenic shoreline. Belle Isle provides spectacular views of the Detroit skyline, Canada, the Ambassador Bridge and a steady stream of freighter traffic.

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Statues pay tribute to important figures in business, music and literature. Johann Frederick Von Schiller who wrote “Ode to Joy” is perched upon a pedestal, book in hand, peacefully gazing at nature. A white marble bust of Dante Alighieri, Father of Italian literature stands tall and serious. James Brady founder of the Old Newsboys Goodfellow Fund holds a small child near to him. A single soldier stands at attention representing the Civil War Grand Army of of the Republic. Quite impressive is the tribute to Samuel Francis Smith, author of “America”; Art Deco in style, eagles sit perched at each corner, a flag pole reaches up toward the sky as Old Glory waves in the air.You have probably seen the large statue of a man on a horse; Major General Alpheus Sharkey Williams, the detail is exquisite. One of my favorites is “Partners”, a newsboy and his dog.

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The island is full of beautiful things; a bridge near the Casino building is just gorgeous. The sides of the bridge are incredibly ornate wrought iron bent into loops and curlicues now painted bright turquoise. The fancy carved stone columns at the ends let us know that it was built by the King Bridge Company in 1893. In another area, situated further back from the roadway rests the Nancy Brown Peace Carillon; this neo-gothic tower was designed by Clarence E Day. Stunning in design and detail, it was dedicated in 1940 to the newspaper columnist who raised most of the building fund from her readers. Today the fenced in area surrounding it looks forgotten, tall grass and weeds grow freely, still, the sound of cast bronze bells continue to ring out and delight all of those who hear it. The William Livingstone Memorial Lighthouse is the only all marble lighthouse in the US; located at the east end of the island it’s owned by the city of Detroit. There’s a path that will lead you out to it, it’s a bit of a walk, but I can assure you it is worth the effort. Designed by Albert Kahn and built in the Art Deco style it’s a thing of beauty. Made of White Georgia Marble and topped off with a bronze lantern room, the light is visible up to 15 miles away on Lake St. Clair. They actually extended the eastern tip of the island 1/4 mile into the river back in 1929 just so they could build the lighthouse on this spot.

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The north east end of the island is quiet and secluded, nature has reclaimed much of it. If you’re the adventurous type there are pathways and nature trails that lead past the Blue Heron Lagoon and over to the shoreline, at one point you get a spectacular view of the open waterway leading out to Lake St Clair. Earlier in the year people from Cherry Creek and Sleeping Bear wineries proposed putting in a vineyard in this area, using the Casino building as a tasting room and sales area, we’ll see what happens…… 

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Fenton: A J Phillips Museum, The French Laundry, Cooks Farm Dairy

23 Sep

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At the first sign of cool, crisp Fall weather our road trip season kicks into high gear, so top off the gas tank, buckle your seat belt and get ready to wear your car out! You may not be aware of it, but there are wonderful scenic roads leading to picturesque little towns all around the metro area.

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Today we are heading northwest to Fenton; a lovely small town great for a day trip. The Shiawassee River flows over a dam and through the park in the center of town, take a stroll  along the walkway by the river, or have a seat under the old-fashioned gazebo; the scenery is pretty as a picture. Large pots are spilling over with brightly colored flowers, people in kayaks paddle down the river, a family feeds a large gathering of ducks on this bright Sunday afternoon. The park is overlooked by City Hall, across the street is the Fenton Community and Cultural Center designed by Eliel and Eero Saarinen. We rambled down the street to the AJ Phillips Fenton Museum which tells the story of Fenton’s history; modest in size it contains an abundance of information. From vintage clothing, tools, newspapers and photographs everything has a tie to the city. The Sights and Sounds area has some great old tv’s  and cameras. The main area is devoted to military and war items; the key piece is a sword belonging to Col. William Fenton himself. It’s really a fascinating place and well worth a visit. The downtown still retains much of it’s historical charm and Majestic century old homes grace the neighborhoods.

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On the corner of Shiawassee and Adelaide sits the French Laundry, an awesome, nearly impossible to get into restaurant. We have been coming here for years and have watched it change from a little one room deli to a full service restaurant. They have stuck with their incredible deli menu (think Zingerman’s in Ann Arbor), and just added to that. Sandwiches are served on great breads and piled high with high quality fillings, everything is made with the freshest top-notch ingredients, coffee drinks and baked goods are out-of-this-world. The place is inviting; the original section has that charming deli feel, while the new section is more contemporary, the patio seating is delightful; which all explains why it is so hard to get into! The weather was perfect; we lucked out and sat at a table outdoors, after staring at the menu we ended up with a #40″Floydian Slip”: Homemade chicken salad, cream cheese, raspberry preserves all rolled up in whole wheat flat bread, so good, you have to try it. Along with that we had a #57 “Peanut Butter & Brady Time”: Peanut butter and strawberry preserves, bananas and vanilla marshmallows all squeezed between 2 pieces of grilled cinnamon raisin bread, As much of a dessert as a meal! I had to have a side of their tasty potato salad too, everything was scrumptious.

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We left Fenton heading east on Grange Hall road, this is a great route to take; pretty roads passing through wooded and hilly areas. Head southbound on M15 and continue twisting and turning through the scenic countryside. Go east on Seymour Lake Rd, but stop when you arrive at Cooks Farm Dairy in Ortonville. This place is awesome! This dairy farm has been around for decades; think of it as a sort of petting farm that serves some of the best ice cream and dairy products you will ever have the pleasure of tasting. I start out by visiting the baby cows in their little pens; they don’t get cuter than this. The pigs are a little further back from the barns and are always fun to watch. The big cows are doing all the work; someone has to make all the milk. At Cooks they grow the corn that feeds the cows, the cows produce the milk, and the Cooks turn it into ice cream, chocolate milk, butter and eggnog, all available for you to purchase in their storefront. Portions are HUGE, the flavors are incredible, the experience, priceless.

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More Roadtrip; Kalamazoo Valley Museum, Water Street Coffee Joint

18 Sep

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We awoke at Henderson Castle to a bright, crisp Labor Day morning. The Inn was sold out, so once we sat the large dining room table was full. The breakfast selection ranged from toasted bagels, yogurt and fruit to a tasty almond coffee cake. Due to the recent change in ownership they are not yet able to serve hot foods. The conversation around the table was lively and fun, we were the only visitors from Michigan, others reigned from Chicago and Cleveland, and a foreign exchange student all the way from Germany. After breakfast we had time to spare before the Kalamazoo Valley Museum opened, so we thought we take a walk around downtown. Bronson Park is the center point of Central City; this lovely tree lined green space is surrounded by beautiful historic buildings. The County Building and City Hall are lovely examples of Art Deco, large churches from a bygone era stand tall and graceful along with stunning brick Victorian-style homes. A sizable Aztec looking  fountain sprays water toward the sky, a short walk down the center of the park is a reflecting pool where bronze statues of children sit upon pedestals enjoying the view. Lush colorful gardens line the perimeter; a short distance from the Mall benches offer tired shoppers and visitors an opportunity for a little respite. Festivals, concerts and cultural events all take place here throughout the year.

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After our walk we drove to the museum, on street parking was easy, admission is free. This 60,000 sq. ft. state-of-the art building celebrates history, science and technology offering “Adventure you can touch”. Exhibits are interactive and hands-on; fun for all ages but children are especially delighted they can touch almost everything. The diner was quite popular, a tiny girl stood apron-clad behind the counter preparing lunch for her mother out of felt bread, meats, veggies, hot dogs and buns, I wanted to play too. I found the Kalamazoo history area extremely interesting; did you know the Gibson Guitar Corp. opened here in 1902, and produced their infamous instruments in this area until they moved to Nashville TN in the 1980’s, Heritage Guitars are still produced locally. Upjohn Pharmaceutical was founded here in 1886 and Checker cabs were made here too, who knew? They do a wonderful job arranging things so they are eye-catching, they are informative without being boring. Afterwards we walked around, taking in more of the city until hunger drove us back to the car to find a lunch spot.

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Situated on the corner of Water St and Kalamazoo Ave, next to the train tracks, is a charming little place called Water Street Coffee Joint. The tiny building constructed in 1934, was originally a gas station, the decor in the bathroom fondly recalls it’s former purpose. Across the street from the Coffee Joint is the Bell’s Brewery, if you get a chance try their Java Stout; it is made with Water Street Coffee Joint Coffee.  We have been coming to the Coffee Joint for years; they have great coffee and espresso drinks, along with a killer chocolate espresso shake, fabulous hand made desserts, and a nice selection of savories, soups and salads. This place is always busy with a steady stream of folks coming and going, service is friendly and efficient. We were so hungry it was hard to decide which of the delicious-looking items in the display case we wanted, with a little help from our server we made our choices. The outdoor temperature was just warm enough we could sit outside and be comfortable, we found an open space and dug into our lunch. The Thai Chicken Salad was excellent, the chicken was moist, shredded into bite-sized pieces with crisp veggies, it was perfectly dressed. The Italian Torta was everything a good torta should be; tender flaky crust, layers of delicious fillings like ricotta, spinach and tomatoes, warmed and served up in a generous wedge. The sandwich special of the day was a BLAT, you know, Bacon, Lettuce, Avocado & Tomato; It too was tasty, we ordered the half, which was a good decision. It was time to start heading back; we each ordered an espresso and added one of their out of this world “Incredibars”( the name says it all……) for the road.

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Kris always has in interesting way to get from one place to the other; it will always involve good scenery, a winding road and cute little towns. Our maps are decorated with a series of dots marking favorite routes, stars noting something of particular interest or notes telling us “don’t go this way”, the DeLorme series of Atlas & Gazetteers are a staple on any trip we take, their detail is incomparable to other maps. We headed northwest out of Kalamazoo on 43, the route twists and turns as it goes by several beautiful lakes and continues past picturesque farmland into Hastings. Hastings is a good sized town and was named One Of The 100 Best Small Towns in America. Next we take state road 436 east; meandering by handsome horse farms, pretty country homes and a variety of animals including llamas, goats, bulls and sheep, soon the area will have cartloads of pumpkins for sale. 436 becomes Vermontville Hwy traveling through more tiny towns, jog up and over to Holt road then jog down to Howell/Mason rd into downtown Howell. The sun goes down earlier these days, so we like to enjoy the scenery while we can. From there we got on the freeway and aimed for home, it was a great weekend and a great ride!

Roadtrip……Kalamazoo; Gilmore Car Museum, Henderson Castle B&B

14 Sep

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I don’t know about you, but every time I hear the name” Kalamazoo” the Glenn Miller song starts to play in my head; A,B,C,D,E,F,G,H,  I got a gal in Kalamazoo……There’s something catchy about that name, it has been used in songs, books, and slogans such as “From Timbuktu to Kalamazoo”.  We were looking for a short overnight trip Labor Day weekend and Kalamazoo is what came to mind.

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We pointed the car west, got on I-94 and  covered the miles quickly, there wasn’t time to take back roads both ways; sometimes you have to make sacrifices. Our first stop was the Gilmore Car Museum located in Hickory Corners MI. This place is astounding, and truly one of a kind. Here’s a brief history: Donald Gilmore receives a 1920 Pierce Arrow “project car” as a birthday present from his wife, he restored it with a group of friends, and soon his collection grew to 30 cars. He purchased 90 acres of farm land and several historic barns, which had to be dismantled plank by plank and moved to the site to store the vehicles. The collection eventually became a non-profit foundation and a public museum it opened July 31, 1966. Let me just assure you the Gilmore family is not short on cash; The number of autos and barns has grown substantially through the years, making it one of the top automobile museums in the country. In addition to the autos (200) displayed in eight barns, there is also a re-created 1930’s service station, a small town train station, an authentic Diner Car, and a double-decker bus, all for your enjoyment. The museum also owns one of North America’s largest displays of hood ornaments and name badges, and if you like vintage pedal cars, you’re in luck!

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We were fortunate in that there was a Cadillac La Salle meet going on when we arrived; we immediately set our focus on the gathering of cars, walking up and down the rows among giant tail fins and tons of chrome. Interiors are lush; leather seats and dashboards loaded with gadgets and trimmed in more chrome, it’s hard for me to imagine people drove these daily, the size is intimidating….parking spaces must have been bigger in those days….. Next we went to the barns; they are numbered so it makes it easy to keep track of what you have and haven’t seen, meticulously restored, they are beautiful inside. If you asked me what my favorite car is I couldn’t choose, if you asked what is the one thing you shouldn’t miss, I say don’t miss any of it! Automobiles were elaborate, if you spend the time to really study a Pierce Arrow, Franklin, Duesenberg, Packard or Cord, you recognize that each one was different, the design reflecting the time period, the craftsmanship outstanding, they were rolling sculpture.  Barn #5 has a fascinating collection of cars made in “Kalamazoo- The Other Motor City”, this town has a strong automotive heritage, in the same barn are the Brass & Nickel Cars which date back to 1931 and older, the Cars of the 1950’s also share this space and seem to be quite popular with visitors. Vehicles of the 30’s and 40’s are displayed along with Preston Tucker’s office (yes, the real thing) and the Tucker Historical Collection in barn 6, feast your eyes on an authentic Tucker, the single headlight sets it apart from all other vehicles. From the 1800’s to the 1970’s and from the luxurious to the muscle car you can see a little bit of everything at Gilmore.

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CLICK HERE TO VIEW MORE VINTAGE CARS

We had walked, smiled, ogled and photographed for hours, we needed to re-fuel, lucky for us the Blue Moon Diner car on the premises serves lunch from 11-4 daily.  An original 1941 Silk City Diner, this place is cool! Order at the counter, if there’s room I recommend sitting inside, if not, tables are plentiful on the outdoor shaded patio. The food is great; hot dogs, many people ordered the “Chicago”, sandwiches served with a bag of chips, typical diner fare, and of course homemade pie. They do a big frozen custard business too, everywhere you look people had a cone filled with the delicious stuff. We ordered a BLT; bacon was crisp and tender piled on white toast topped with juicy tomatoes, lettuce and a generous coating of mayo. In addition we had the salad special of the day, grilled chicken, crisp lettuce, fruit, nuts and a great homemade dressing, diet coke was served in the petite silver bottles and was icy cold. What fun!

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It was getting late in the day so it was time to check in to our Bed & Breakfast, we booked a room at the Henderson Castle in Kalamazoo. As of August 2011 the Inn has a new owner so it was our first stay since it had changed hands, it was a little rough around the edges, but we expect the new owner will whip it into shape quickly. The house is stunning; built in 1895 of Lake Superior Sandstone and brick this magnificent Queen Ann sits on top of a hill overlooking the city. The original owner, Frank Henderson was a wealthy and successful businessman, he built 25 room home at a cost of $72, 000.00, I’d say it was worth every penny. Francois greeted us at the door and showed us to our room (Tibet) on the second floor, climbing the wooden staircase I had forgotten how extravagant the place was. As the door swung open the brightly painted tin ceiling came into view; one of the previous owners had it removed from a building downtown that was set to be demolished and had it installed in the Tibet Room, then he hired students from nearby WMU to paint it, the last step was the installation of fiber optic lighting around the perimeter and ceiling medallion, it’s gorgeous. The bathroom is huge; the floor is covered in original ceramic tiles, the Tibet theme continues here too. After we settled in we headed back out for dinner.

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There is an area of downtown called the “Mall”, basically it’s several blocks of small shops and restaurants that is quite walkable and charming.  We came across a place called Central City Tap House that looked inviting; tables indoors and out with sliding glass doors to separate the spaces. Our indoor table facing the open doors was perfect, we had a pizza and an Asian salad that really hit the spot, a nice amount of food for a fair price. I had to save a little bit of room for our next visit: the Bell’s Brewery.  Bell’s has been around for a while now, and most Michiganders know it well; the Porter is my favorite. We parked on the street and sat indoors, the place was busy and the list of available varieties was long, but we managed to get both a beer and a table. I selected the Rye Porter and was glad I did, the perfect drinking temperature this beer had nice deep flavor and a smooth finish, it would go well with a meal too. We had a great day in Kzoo, and now it was time to get some sleep. Tomorrow always brings a new adventure.

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Scott Fountain Belle Isle, Hart Plaza, Jazz Festival

9 Sep

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Kris and I have been coming to the Scott Fountain on Belle Isle for as long as I can remember, and we are not alone! Through the years we have witnessed dozens of weddings, numerous family photographs, and countless visitors enjoy the splendor of the fountain. Designed by Cass Gilbert and sculpted out of Vermont White Marble by Herbert Adams there are over 109 water outlets. From the great outer bowl rises the central pedestal of intricately carved figures that upholds the top most basin. Take a good look, the detail is remarkable; You can find Neptune, dolphins, lions, turtles and sweet faced cherubs. The central spray jets water 125 ft into the air and is most impressive. It seems people are always drawn to water, so a fountain on an island is an even greater attraction. Belle Isle Park is the largest city island park in the country, it was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted who also designed Central Park in New York City.

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There is a bit of interesting history that goes along with this amazing tower of cascading of water.  James Scott was a wealthy bachelor who was known as a gambler, womanizer, and a loafer. Scott had inherited his father’s real estate fortune and it was said he was not to have done a days work in his entire life. He told off-color stories, gave big tips, dated beautiful women and played vindictive practical jokes. He was disrespected and disliked by most of the businessmen and city officials in Detroit at the time. In 1910 James Scott died, he left $500,000.00 to the City of Detroit with the stipulation they use it to build a fountain on Belle Isle and a life-sized statue of himself; people were outraged. After 15 years or arguments and debate, the fountain and statue were finally built in 1925 for all to enjoy.

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The fountain itself has changed a bit through the years too; the beautiful Pewabic Tile that graced the interior of great outer bowl was removed last year when repairs were made, sadly it was all destroyed and thrown away. There is a current fundraising effort in the works to raise the money to replace the tiles, Pewabic still has the original plans. The lower area of the fountain bordering the lake is not running this year, there are repairs to be made and little money to work with. It is still worth looking at, I love the giant clam shells, and remember fondly when water sprayed freely. I recently read that the 1973 drama “Scarecrow” had a famous scene between Gene Hackman and Al Pacino that was shot at the fountain, I will have to rent it and check it out! It seems all who married in Detroit back in the day came to Belle Isle to take pictures, it was the place you came for picnics and reunions, it was and still is a magical gathering place.

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 It was a scorching hot Saturday, the kind that drags you down, saps your energy and drives you inside to some air conditioned place. Well, unless the 32nd Annual Detroit Jazz Festival is going on! It’s hard to pass up the Labor Day Weekend event no matter what else is going on, billed as the largest FREE Jazz event in the world you will never see or hear anything like it. The urban setting is quintessential; the Detroit skyline in one direction, in the other, the sparkling blue Detroit River lapping against the Windsor shoreline. Hart Plaza plays host to the event and does a marvelous job. Hart Plaza is said to be the spot Detroit’s founder Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac first landed in 1701. It is home to two amphitheaters, statues and sculpture, the first international memorial to the underground railroad, and of course the Dodge Fountain. Designed by Isamu Noguchi in 1978 this 30 ft tall stainless steel fountain pays tribute to Horace E Dodge. The fountain has 300 water nozzles that spray down into an 8 ft tall walled circular black granite pool, most importantly on a hot day it provides overheated pedestrians a place to cool off. Wander from stage to stage, or sit on the grass under a shade tree; you can  hear everything from traditional, New Orleans style, or Modern Jazz, the entertainment goes on for four days straight. The festival has gotten so big it now spills down Woodward right into Campus Martius, I think I counted six by stages in all. It is an incredible mix of musicians and fans, food and drink, sights and sounds.

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