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Detroit: Out For The Evening

5 Jul

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We begin our evening in Eastern Market, we park in front of Cutter’s Bar & Grill and head inside, your stereotypical Detroit dive bar, good food, good times. The space is dark, I turn towards a television and let my eyes adjust, the Blues flows from a nearby speaker, the bartender tells us to sit anywhere we want. We take a high-top table in the bar area, surrounding conversation leads us to believe many of the patrons are regulars. Yellow paper menus are kept on the tables, we have a look. Burgers are the main feature here, the meat is fresh, never frozen, high quality and hand-pattied; you can get everything from a 4 oz slider to a full 1 pound burger. What catches my eye is the selection of “stuffed” burgers, I read the list of choices, they all sound good, but the 8 oz burger stuffed with pepper jack cheese and pepperoncini is definitely the winner. We wait for our food to arrive, the variety of music changes, some sing along, the restaurant is small and windowless giving no clue as to whether it is night or day. Our burger arrives in a basket along with a pile of hand-cut fries, I dress it up, cut it in half for us to share, and take a bite. The meat is perfectly cooked and tender, the cheese and pepper rings are  a tasty addition. The fries are delicious, there is no mistaking these for the typical frozen variety. When the burger is gone we linger long enough for Kris to finish his drink and then we are off; we have a party to go to!

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Detroit Mercantile on Russell Street is celebrating its 1st Anniversary and we’re invited. This is one of those shops where you just want to buy everything; each shelf, every display and item is presented in an attractive way. Each item, whether new or vintage is carefully chosen; the store specializes in goods Made in the USA, many are made in Michigan and even more are made right here in Detroit. A large american flag hangs from the back wall, on a nearby shelf I see a vintage roller skate, old Faygo pop cans and a beer stein from Stroh’s. There’s a huge variety of books, they all have something to do with the motor city, I find them stacked on an antique safe and on lovely old trunks. If you are in the market for a Detroit-centric T-shirt, look no further, they have many to choose from. From purses, jackets and Stormy Kromer hats to tins of Better Made chips, handmade chocolates and Germack gift baskets, the store has something for everyone.

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We proceed through the showroom into the warehouse, this area is reserved as rental space for parties, weddings and events such as tonight. Immediately in front of us on the floor a pair of acrobats are in the middle of their routine, in the distance a woman is sifting through guests on stilts. In the center of the room  a young woman is performing on the aerial ring, to the left a juggler takes turns throwing a set of three pins into the air; these would all be members of the Detroit Flyhouse Circus. The space is super cool;’ exposed brick and block walls, red ceiling beams and polished concrete floors. Folding chairs are scattered about the space, a cozy sitting area to the right includes a couch and comfy chairs. A representative from Civilized Vodka (Traverse City) is making drinks with Faygo soda pop, next to him they are serving up coffee made from Great Lakes coffee beans. Whole Foods has set up an amazing buffet of cheese, fruit, crackers and wraps, so much to taste! We wander about in the 5000 sq ft warehouse, a weathered car from an old amusement park ride sits off to one side. In the year that The Detroit Mercantile has been in business we have seen them grow from a small showroom, to a larger showroom with the added rental space. The owners started with a nice variety of goods and now carry everything from jewelry and leather goods to Carhart clothing and bicycles, I can’t wait to see what they do next!

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Before turning in for the evening we make one last stop; the Ghost Bar at the Whitney. We enter through the oversized wooden doors, this 1894 mansion turned restaurant is absolutely stunning! We go directly up the magnificent stairway, passing by elegant stained glass windows, to the third floor. The room is gorgeous; the unique barrel-vaulted ceiling is highlighted with narrow wooden beams, the original skylight is still in tact. We have ourselves a seat at one of the few round tables scattered about and order up cocktails. We sip our drinks surrounded by the elegance of days gone by.

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Hamtramck: Saint Florian Strawberry Festival

4 Jun

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There are certain things you can count on in life: Spring follows Winter, night follows day, cake on your birthday, fireworks on the 4th of July and the St Florian Strawberry Festival every May. This year we met up with a couple of our friends who had not yet been to the church or the festival. The four of us packed ourselves into our 2-door Wrangler, we arrive at St Florian, surrounding streets have been declared Strawberry Festival Blvd for the weekend. The imposing brick and stone building can’t help but attract your attention with its handsome wood doors, stained glass windows, finely carved stone a spire that rises 200 feet into the sky. People and activity are everywhere; from a large tent we hear music as Polish dance ensembles perform traditional dances, the air carries the distinct aroma of Polish food. There is a buffet of items such as perogi and meatball dinners, Polish beer and chrusciki (angel wings). Next we head to social hall where the festivities continue.

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The party continues downstairs, the space reminds me of the days when big family gatherings were held in basements. Fold-out paper strawberries hang from the drop ceiling, round tables are covered in pastel colored cloths, a large bar hugs one side of the wall, and then there’s the food! Volunteers have spent countless hours preparing city chicken and stuffed cabbage, Polish Village supplies the sauerkraut, Kielbasa comes from Bozek, New Palace Bakery makes the cheesecake, cookies and everybody’s favorite, paczki; it is a true neighborhood affair. At a nearby table parishoners are hard at work pouring homemade batter into a waffle iron, I gaze dreamily as the baked waffle is topped with fresh strawberries in their own syrup, a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a dollop of fresh whipped cream, I immediately take my place in line. Each of us gets something different; we take a seat at one of the tables and dig in. The warmth of the waffle melts the ice cream ever so slightly, Kris and I take large bites being sure to get a bit of everything on the fork; strawberries are sweet, the waffle tender, simple and delicious! The Dyna Dukes are onstage, they begin to play a polka, suddenly the dance floor is crowded with couples wearing smiles of delight. Upstairs, tours of the church are being offered, we make our way there and wait for it to begin.

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I love to see the look on people’s faces when they enter the church for the first time; a mixture of wonder and amazement. Designed by Ralph Adams Cram in the Gothic style, the church opened in 1928. It is visually stunning; the nave is made up of six bays topped with a rib vault ceiling painted a deep blue, ribs are accentuated with gold paint. The main aisle is flanked by 2 smaller aisles, stained glass windows made by Kase Company in New York line the walls. The altar is magnificent; a series of five windows depict polish saints, the altar piece a work of art from Florence Italy. The organ loft is illuminated by a large, jewel-like, rose stained glass window, the organ itself, a 1928 Austin Electric Opus # 1528, completely renovated in 2008. Walls look like stone, stenciled designs decorate every surface, light fixtures dangle from long chains, large round ones are made of wood, smaller elongated fixtures are glass, all are exceptional. We walk around in awe, Kris, busy as usual, taking photos until the tour begins.

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We take our seats in the first few rows of pews, a local man, knowledgeable in the history of both St Florian and Hamtramck will be our guide. He tells us about the early days, about 1901, when Hamtramck was still a village filled with farms. Soon afterward automobile manufacturers began setting up shop; Dodge, Packard and Ford. Eastern European immigrants began to settle in the area, there were many jobs to fill. In 1910 the population in Hamtramck was 3559, in 1920 it was 48,615 and in 1930 it rose to 56,000 people; imagine it, all those people living in a city of only 2 square miles! St Florian parish began in 1908, before long they had outgrown their church, with a plan for a new building, working class parishoners sacrificed what they could to build the new church at a cost of $500,000.00 The current building opened in 1928, American Architecture Magazine named it the best new church in America in 1929. They say at one time there were 23 factories and 43 grocery stores in Hamtramck, then as now there was no shortage of bars. At one time Dodge Main employed 45,000 people, sadly the factory closed in 1979. The good news is GM built a new factory on the land where they proudly build the Chevrolet Impala and Volt. Today’s Hamtramck is a mix of people from Eastern Europe to the Middle East, there are Mosks, and churches of Catholic, Baptist and Evangelical faiths. St Florian still offers mass in both Polish and English and looks as good as ever.

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Coming from St Florian and being in Poletown we have lunch exactly where you’d expect….a Bosnian restaurant! Located on Caniff across the street from the post office Restaurant Palma is located inside what looks to be a family home. The inside is quaint; a stained wood wainscoting lines the walls, tiny white lights shine from behind it. Tables are round and covered with linen table cloths, a single rose decorates each table, walls are pale green and yellow and hanging plants add an airiness to the space. Our young waitress arrives with menus in hand, we order diet cokes and look them over, yikes….it’s written in Bosnian! When she brings our drinks we ask for assistance in ordering, nice as can be she tells us about different dishes, we place our order and wait for the food to arrive. The dishes come out together, we have a small cabbage salad: finely shredded cabbage with a mild vinegar type dressing. The Cevapi is a Bosnian main-stay; tiny skinless sausages of ground meat served on a huge roll called Lepinja. The bread or Lepinja is fantastic, soft, fluffy and delicate there is nothing I can compare it to, slightly sweet, it has soaked up some of the juice from the Cevapi, delicious! The Cevapi itself is very tasty, it reminds me a bit of a Croation dish I have had. Served with sour cream for dipping, sliced raw onion and seasoned french fries, it is a hearty meal. We picked the stir fry for a bit of variety, tender chicken chunks and a large variety of veggies it is well seasoned and flavorful, yum! It has been wonderful day filled with beautiful architecture, interesting stories from the past and delectable food, giving us an even greater appreciation for all that surrounds us.

Hola Detroit!

23 May

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It is a  gorgeous Sunday afternoon in Southwest Detroit as throngs of people line Vernor Hwy in anticipation of the Cinco de mayo parade. Cinco de mayo is a celebration of the victory of the Battle of Puebla and is celebrated annually in the Mexican-American communities in the US.  People are stacked four and five deep along the route, as we near Most Holy Redeemer we see a break in the crowd and take our place among them. The mood is distinctly festive, the street a sea of green, white and red, Mexican flags in a variety of sizes are being waved high in the air. Alongside Luna’s Bakery a stand is selling glasses of cold juice; mango, pineapple, honeydew and pomegranate. We duck inside for a cookie, purchase our juice and are back on the other side of the street before the parade begins. Pedestrians continue to crowd the sidewalks as the activity begins.

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Music fills the air as the sun shines brightly overhead; folks in traditional Mexican dress stride down the street, vaqueros wearing sombreros and embroidered shirts ride high upon perfectly groomed horses. Banners bearing names of local restaurants are draped across the front of antique cars and semi trucks, a huge black semi carries a multi-piece band on its bed. Representatives of Wayne State University, community groups and mounted police join in the fun. Senorita’s in colorful dresses toss strands of beads into the crowd, others toss handfuls of candy to the smallest spectators; the line of participants stretches long into the horizon. As the parade finally winds up we  head over to see the Blessing of the Low Riders near the Michigan Welcome Center.

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Cool custom low riders are parked irregularly up and down the street, swarms of people make the lanes nearly impassable. A Cadillac Brougham in silver and magenta wears intricate pinstripe patterns, a red Buick Regal resting on the driver’s side tires gives us insight into what kind of stunts the hydraulics are capable of. 1960’s Chevy Impalas seem to be the vehicle of choice here, many are convertibles, decked out in amazing paint jobs, they are simply works of art. Chunky red metalflake  adorns one vehicle, designs in orange and yellow jump out at you, the red velvet interior is ultra sweet. There are lowered Monte Carlos and more unusual, a vintage car from the 40’s in white with a brown painted roof. At first a blue Buick Regal looks rather plain, that is until you notice the amazing abstract design  in turquoise, silver and lavender that adorns the roof! Pinstriping is found everywhere; colors, width and style vary from vehicle to vehicle, the scene is eye candy for professional and amateur photographers alike. We spend a little more time at the celebration, off to the left a DJ plays tunes as a group of break dancers take turns showing off their best moves. A Mariachi band assembles on a nearby stage an begins to play traditional Mexican songs. White tents cover tables selling souvenirs, T-shirts and food. Speaking of food, it’s time for lunch!

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When looking for fried chicken in Detroit, the southwest district is probably not the first area that comes to mind, it will now. Over on Junction just north of Vernor is Pollo Chapin; a little yellow house trimmed in green, serving up some of the best fried chicken in the D along with Guatemalan specialties. Inside you will find a small dining room and a counter for placing carry-out orders; a large brightly colored menu is mounted on the wall. We are eating in, we seat ourselves at a small round table and begin the process of deciding what to eat. Chicken comes in regular and spicy versions, combos vary by the number of pieces and sides. We order a three-piece; two regular fried, one spicy, our sides are curtido and egg noodle salad. On our waitresses suggestion we add a chicken tamale and a side of slaw. First to arrive is a bowl of house made chicken noodle soup, it’s delicious. On the table a large glass jar is filled with homemade pickled vegetables. Only halfway through the soup the rest of our food arrives, plates are piled high with scrumptious fried chicken and colorful salads. While Kris digs into the chicken I unwrap our Guatemalan tamale (tamal), wrapped in a banana leaf the masa is made with broth and lard producing a moist, rich and fluffy outside to a tasty filling of chicken, vegetables and spices, yum! The slaw is a combination of cabbage and cilantro, there’s some heat to it too, very tasty. The chicken is cooked perfectly, juices flow as we peel off chunks, the spicy sauce is flavorful without being overpowering. The egg noodle salad is excellent, lots of black pepper, the curtido a blend of cabbage and beets has a nice taste. We rest our forks and sit back in our chairs as our server reappears with a complimentary plate of sopapillas for dessert. Portions are generous and the food is excellent.

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On our way out of southwest we make one last stop at Chilango’s Bakery on W. Vernor; a tip from our friend The Detroit Foodie. Before we enter we are greeted by the aroma of fresh-baked goods filling the air, we open the door to find rack after rack of fresh from the oven items cooling on metal trays. On the left, glass cases are filled with everything from cookies to sweet breads. The bakery is self-serve, simply grab a tray and a pair of tongs and help yourself. Spanish is the primary language spoken here, but staff members are happy to answer questions as best they can. The empanadas with fruit filling are one of my favorites, bright pink cookies are dusted with a layer of powdered sugar, cream cheese and cherry filling spill out from  pastries on the cooling rack, it all looks wonderful. We fill a tray with an assortment of goodies, the cashier packs them carefully in a white paper bag. Back in the car I am already thinking about which one I will have for breakfast.

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Wyandotte

3 May

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Every once in a while the opportunity arises to see or do something out of the ordinary; such was the case on a lovely Saturday morning when we found ourselves in Wyandotte at the North American Model Engineering Society (NAMES) Expo. Modelers of all ages, from all over, gather to show off their amazing creations and promote the hobby of model engineering. Held at Yack Arena the expo fills 30,000 sq ft of space with miniature, functioning models of things like engines, trains, tractors, aircraft and boats; it’s something you have to see to believe!Tables with shiny metal objects near the arena entrance immediately grab our attention, on the left a crowd forms around a scale cylinder radial engine, the proud modeler answers one question after another, I don’t even know what it is and I’m impressed! Kris is extremely mechanical and understands the way things work, with me as his companion he will quickly grow tired of having to explain what everything is.

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We start down the first aisle, a sea of exhibitors display incredible, real working examples of  mechanical items scaled down to table-top size, lines of compressed air operate tiny steam engines creating a rhythmic popping sound. Trains are popular, there are several examples each done in a different scale, they are perfect down to the smallest detail. Men stand proudly behind their tables,  I have as much fun looking at the items as I do watching their creators talk with passing admirers. As we round a corner I spot a 1/4 scale Whizzer motor bike, further down a 1/5 scale bridgeport, the featured model this year is a V8 engine, complete with radiator and mini spark plugs. Many pieces are mounted on pretty wooden bases, often times engraved plates tell us what each item is. One modeler has made an entire old-fashioned machine shop complete with an arbor press, wood lathe and saw table, the exactness is mind-blowing.

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We see several different engines, some run on gasoline, all it takes is a little bit of revving to draw an audience. I recognize items like transmissions, cylinder heads and a super charger, each teeny tiny piece is a work of art. Every aisle has something amazing; a cannon, clock, guns and meticulous recreations of race cars and Chris Craft boats, these guys even make their own tools! Kris had his hands full taking pictures. Often times the builder would show us the way things work, truly fascinating stuff.

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When lunch time arrived we thought we’d check out downtown Wyandotte, we see  a restaurant  sign that says Sushi Bar Japanese Cuisine, we’re in. When we step inside I notice the attractive iridescent tile on the back wall, wind chimes hang lazily over the sushi bar. We are seated near the window and handed menus. After a quick scan we choose three sushi rolls, a salad and the age dashi tofu. Drinks and salad arrived quickly, good, we’re hungry. The lunch crowd thins out, the rest of our meal arrives. The tofu is excellent, a crisp sesame crust and tasty dipping sauce, one of the better ones we’ve had. The sushi was fresh and delicious.

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We walk over to Biddle, which is Wyandotte’s main street, drawn in by the appealing window display, we stop in at River’s Edge Gallery. The first floor is a combination art gallery, interior design studio and custom framing shop, as we wander through I recognize names of many Detroit artists. We ascend the stairs to the second floor, a new exhibit has just opened, the artist’s pieces are engaging, the space a delightful array of art. The gallery owner concentrates on the art of New Detroit, the city is becoming known as a hotbed for the creative community.

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I had ice cream on my mind, Wyandotte is lucky enough to have both a Sanders and a Stroh’s, since I can get Sanders locally Stroh’s was our destination. As we walk up the block Kris is intrigued by a charming 2-story building. Curious as to what the interior looks like he opens the door and proceeds in, just inside the foyer are a set of saloon-style swinging doors, we push through those and find ourselves inside an enchanting German pub known as R P McMurphy’s. This place is awesome! The brick building was built in the 1890’s, it started out as Schroeder’s Pub, Dr. Schroeder had his medical practice on the second floor. We take a seat at the gorgeous dark wood bar and strike up a conversation with Joe the bartender; he answers our questions as he prepares the absolute best Spanish Coffee I’ve ever had. One of the waitresses we talked to told us it used to be a joke that you could stop in at the pub for a ‘shot’ before you went upstairs to get your shot. As we sit we swivel in our chair to take in our surroundings, the tile floor is original as is most everything in the place. The most striking feature is the hand painted period mural that runs the full length of the far wall. The characters and scenes look like they are out of a story book during the days of Robin Hood, they have stood the test of time perfectly. Pewabic tile fills the space below the murals, we’re told that was added later, chandeliers look medieval, thick wood beams divide the ceiling, the place is like a time capsule. Can’t wait to come back for dinner.

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Wyandotte is home to a bevy of architectural styles, making it a great place to take a stroll. If you’re into the “Pop” style of the late 1960’s early 70’s be sure and poke your head into the Chelsea menswear store, also on Biddle. The building was renovated in 1970, outside the “Chelsea” lettering  and oblong cut-out for the window are fab, the Pop theme continues inside with the circle panels in the ceiling creating polka dots of light. Focusing in clothing made locally and in the USA, it’s also a great place for guys to shop! 

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With so much to offer and just a short ride from Detroit,we’ll be back in the summer for dinner, ice cream and a stroll along the river. Who knows what else we may discover.

DETROIT: 3rd Thursday

27 Apr

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As the art scene continues to grow at an astonishing rate in Detroit there is an increasing number of cool things to do most any night of the week. Tonight is the 3rd Thursday of the month, Art Detroit Now has  big plans for the evening; a combination of contemporary art, amazing artists and extraordinary venues; let’s go! We arrive at the Pioneer Building on East Grand Blvd, years ago we heard that it had been turned into studio spaces for artists, we’ve always wanted to check it out, tonight we finally get our chance. We park alongside the building, rain is coming down in buckets, we make a dash for the door. Inside, we grab a studio floorplan, we hear voices nearby and use them as a guide to find the first studio. Spaces come in all shapes and sizes, often larger studios are shared by two or more artists. The first one we enter is a small, cozy space, completed pieces dot the walls, the smell of paint thinner and oil paint hang heavy in the air, music plays quietly in the background. After we  look around we proceed back down the hall, pieces of art from studio tenants grace every wall, the work is fantastic. We meander in and out of first floor studios; styles range from striking to serene, colors cover the gamut from subtle to intense. We are greeted warmly by Joan Farago, for the last two years she’s had pieces in Art Prize in Grand Rapids; it’s wonderful to have an opportunity to talk about her art and Detroit’s continually expanding art scene.

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We climb the stairs to the second floor and then the third, the structure feels solid, indestructible in the way only old buildings do. The wood plank floor is quiet and easy on my feet, huge load bearing  beams are made of wood, remnants of its early history are still visible. Built in 1908 by the Trippensee brothers, the building was originally used to manufacture enclosed bodies for Buick and Ford. In the early 1920’s it was the home of Rickenbacker Motor Co. It spent most of its days as a manufacturing facility, in 1960 Pioneer Office Products took it over. In 1994 the building was purchased and renovated by the current owners who turned it into 29 distinct studio spaces complete with large windows and fantastic industrial views.

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We wander into studio # 303, Birgit Huttemann-Holz stands off to the side as we admire her work. A large table sits central in the space, on it are jars of what appears to be hardened wax, open containers of powdered pigment represent every color of the rainbow. She approaches us, I compliment her work.  She explains  that she does not use paint, that each piece is ‘painted’ with beeswax. Having never heard of this she sees she has piqued our interest and demonstrates the procedure, we are fascinated. She lights the blow-torch, yes, a blow torch, and completes the process, the beeswax gives the colors a luminescent look, as if you can peer right into them, absolutely stunning!

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We continue our journey through the Pioneer Building stopping into each open studio, hosts offer a variety of goodies; cookies, candy, even wine, we meet an array of interesting folks. The back wall of Jeanne Biere’s studio is lined with vintage black and white photos, as we draw closer we realize that they are not photos, but paintings of photos, each image is captured perfectly. Teresa Petersen  creates art from found objects, her collages use vintage items, they are whimsical and fun.   The building is generally not open to the public with the exception of 3rd Thursday. If you can’t make it down on a Thursday, write this down, on the first Saturday of October they host the annual Artist Open Studios, an open house of sorts complete with food and live music; you are welcome to come in, tour the building, meet the artists and purchase their work. It’s already on my calendar!

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Having spent way more time than expected at the Pioneer we can no longer ignore our hunger. Since there are more activities  going on in Eastern Market we head to Supino Pizza for a quick dinner. We place our order at the counter and have a seat at one of the smaller tables, I love the homey feel of the place; black and white checkered floors, community tables and quirky art formed from ordinary items. Kris sets our drinks on the table just as the house salad arrives, that was fast. We douse the tender greens in the house made lemon basil citronette, delicious. Our pizza arrives just as we finish off the salad, a tasty combination of pepperoni, mushrooms, green pepper and a kick of spice melded together by gooey mozzarella.

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We dodge the raindrops once again as we head down Russell Street to Germack Coffee, open until 10pm for the occasion, they have live music tonight.  The Chili Mexican is my favorite drink, but tonight I want something warm; I order a cappuccino, unfazed by the weather Kris asks for an iced coffee with a splash of  house made vanilla simple syrup. Steven whips up our drinks, we move to the back of the shop where the music is set to start. A trio by the name of The  Marble Fauns, begins to play; two guitars, two women and one man, their music would probably be described as folk, I would call it old-time folk. Voices blend beautifully in simple harmonies, the music, uncomplicated tunes are played effortlessly. The girls do most of the singing, after a little coaxing the guy agrees to do a number where his voice is showcased, he’s great! Drinking my coffee and listening to the music I feel like I could sit here for hours. I can’t wait for the next 3rd Thursday.

DETROIT: Art X Encore

21 Apr

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As Art X Detroit continues its stronghold on the Sugar Hill Arts District we carefully scan the schedule of performances. We coordinate our times and venues and head out for another evening of music and art. We begin with a visit to the Music Box at the Max M Fisher Music Center, Xiao Dong Wei is performing in the 450 seat recital hall. This is our first time in the Music Box, in honor of Xiao lovely orange lanterns hang above the stage, we ascend the stairs about halfway up to find open seats. Born in China and studying the Erhu (2-stringed Chinese violin) since age 5, Xiao is a versatile musician. She plays several instruments in a variety of genres including, traditional Chinese folk tunes, Jazz, Classical and American Bluegrass. She now lives in Detroit and is a 2012 recipient of a Kresge Artist Fellowship. Before long the music begins, Xiao, dressed in an exquisite coral colored qi pao, is accompanied by Yuki Mack, a Japanese born Steinway Roster piano virtuoso, who also just so happens to be an old high school classmate of mine. The melody is distinctly Asian, I have never seen an Erhu being played in person, it is fascinating to watch. Basically a stick with a box on the end and a couple of strings, how can it create such beautiful music? We stay for the first four pieces, at times she was joined by the Detroit Symphony Orchestra Chamber Ensemble, other pieces were done as duets. For us it is an incredible opportunity to experience enchanting music in a fresh environment.

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Next on the schedule, Terry Peake introduces his new band Fireloom at the DIA. We are anxious to check out the performance; the band is termed an instrumental, progressive rock band, they will play in front of a screen where a 1960’s era oil light show will be projected by Jon Hudson, sounds cool!  There’s something special about going to the DIA at night, we climb the front steps, give The Thinker a wave and enter through the stunning glass and wrought iron doors; the lighting inside low and mysterious. It’s difficult not to proceed to the Grand Hall and have a look around, but we have a show to catch…..We arrive at the lecture hall to find every seat taken, there is barely enough room for us to stand at the back of the room, it is very warm, we can only glimpse the screen, after a few songs we decide to move on.

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We continue on foot to the Charles H Wright Museum of African American History ; Ara Topouzian is performing in the General Motors Theater. Born in Detroit, the Armenian-American is a widely recognized kanunist,  someone who plays the Kanun, a 76-stringed lap-top harp. We enter the theater and are relieved to find open seating. Seats surround the stage in a semi-circle, the angle is steep, allowing even the shortest visitor a perfect view of the performers. The music has already begun, we quietly sit down. Four musicians dressed in black are onstage, they play traditional Armenian instruments. The song comes to an end and Ara introduces the next piece; a large screen acts as a backdrop, vintage photos of people and events appear, I am guessing the faces are of family and friends. The music is delightful, it feels happy, celebratory, audience members clap and sway along. When the last note is played we make our exit, a table selling CD’s is set up in the hall, it is Ara’s own label American Recording Productions, we pick one out, anxious to give it a listen later.

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We are back outside walking toward MOCAD, in the distance we see Maccabees at Midtown and decide to stop in for a drink. Inside we take a seat at the bar, the atmosphere is lively, it is Friday night after all. The bar top is a gorgeous white marble, lit from underneath it seems to glow, the hanging light fixtures too are attention-getting. We sip our drinks overlooking Woodward Ave, foot traffic is heavier due to Art X. We don’t sit for long as we have one more show to catch. 

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Over at MOCAD Chris Pottinger will perform Congealed: A Festival of Solo Experimental Sound & Art; this will definitely be the most unusual performance of the evening. Once again the room is packed with people, the lights are low, permitting the original artwork being shown on the screen to stand out. Pottinger is both musician and visual artist, he explores the connection between sight and sound. We watch him, guitar laying flat across his lap, amplifier cranked up, as he strikes the strings with his hands, the sound resonates throughout the building. A smattering of foot pedals are scattered about on the floor, the tone and sound change when a bow passes over the strings. This continues as the scenes behind the artist change, the artwork the inspiration for the sound. I look around, fascination plays upon the faces in the audience, a constant stream of people pass the stage pausing to take a photo. I glance over at Kris and notice we share the same perplexed look, clearly we’re not this musically advanced….but the audience sure enjoyed it! The show wraps up at about 11pm. It has been a full evening; we feel as if we have visited China, Africa and on to Armenia, we have gone from traditional to experimental and we never had to leave Detroit.

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DETROIT: Art X

15 Apr

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Detroit has always had a deep connection to the arts; much attention has been paid to the city in recent years from both artists and art lovers alike. On any given weekend Detroit is buzzing with opening exhibits, music performances and panel discussions. This week the Kresge Foundation hosted Art X Detroit; a free 5-day, 60 event happening taking place at twelve venues celebrating art and culture in Detroit.

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It is Wednesday, opening night  of Art X, as we near Midtown Woodward comes alive with hot pink X’s, pedestrians, art installations and cars making a second and third trip around the block looking for a parking space. We stop to view the new mural on the side of the WSU Press Building: The People’s Vision by Hubert Massey. We park a few blocks away; though it is cold and raining we don’t mind the walk, the city feels vibrant, alive! We arrive at the Historic First Congregational Church, the building is stunning; terracotta colored stone, beautiful archways and colorful detail. Only a few other people are inside, Kris gets busy taking photos, I walk around the perimeter of the sanctuary, eyes glued first to the spectacular domed ceiling; divided into four sections each features a medallion with a different scene, a pair of angels flank each side. Arches are found throughout the space, the largest, the entrance to the altar area. The half-domed space is a wonder of gold-painted design, tonight it takes on an entirely different mood with its concert-style lighting and instruments in waiting. I take a seat in one of the beautiful wooden pews, the top and sides handsomely carved, each time I come here I notice something I hadn’t before. Brass wall sconces jut out from painted arched sections of the wall like spiny arms holding up the light, large rosette windows let light in from each side, a series of pipes border the organ loft at the back of the church. My attention is diverted by the sound of percussion instruments in the distance, Kris hears it too and takes his seat next to me.

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The sound grows louder, the doors of the church open, the Detroit Party Marching Band begins to file into the sanctuary. Pedestrians filter into the church and fill the pews as the band takes up residence at the back of the room. A woman enters wearing black and glittering gold, her hat is majorette-style with a large black plume shooting up from front and center, this is Shara Worden, lead singer and songwriter for My Brightest Diamond. The marching band continues to play a piece written especially for this occasion, it is rhythmic, contagious. Shara and her band members take the stage, the music stops, the marching band recedes from the church. The singer is greeted with loud applause, a Detroit resident we welcome her home. The music begins…….Shara has done it all; traveled the world, studied multiple instruments, voice, opera and composition, she takes all of her experiences and rolls it into an amazing performance. Her voice is clear and beautiful, makes me think Annie Lennox, she becomes characters telling a story, singing a lullaby. At times the music is Folk with a trombone part thrown in. The ensemble is an interesting combination of trumpet, flute, guitar, trombone, 2 saxophones, drums and keyboard played by the lady herself. It is eclectic, experimental and at times rocks! 

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Next we venture over to MOCAD, this is the hub for the event, there is constant activity in the building. The current exhibition is made up of works by 2011-2012 Kresge Fellows. We come through the door, the place is packed, the sweet sound of Jazz hangs in the air; Kris Johnson & Friends are performing. We drift into the crowd and make our way to the music, we recognize the melodies, standards that have been around for generations. The trumpet player is magnificent, the band, spectacular, we see them often at Northern Lights Lounge. We snatch cupcakes from a tray then wander through the galleries, the art is amazing.

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 Art X features Kresge’s Eminent Artists and Artist Fellows working in the visual, performing and literary arts. A tidbit about the Kresge Foundation:  In 1912 Sebastian Spering (SS) Kresge opened the first 5 &10 cent store in Detroit, he went on to build a chain of stores, S S Kresge, which in turn became K Mart, the guy was loaded! In 1924 he established the Kresge Foundation in Detroit, his goal was to create opportunity for low-income people and to promote the integration of arts and culture in community revitalization. Since that time the foundation has provided continuous philanthropic support to the area’s non-profit organizations and community initiatives, in 2012 it paid out $150.3 million dollars to 410 grants. Today it is a $3.1 billion dollar private national foundation; quite impressive! Good things happen when you buy local!

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We decide to end the evening with a nightcap, everything in the Sugar Hill Arts District is crowded, we walk back to the car and drive over to Traffic Jam and Snug on Canfield and Second. We pull up a couple of chairs to the bar, it’s a weeknight, so it’s quiet. Kris orders his ‘usual’ while I read the menu of hot drinks, the cold and wet have gotten to me. On the bartender’s advice I choose the Nutty Irishman, good decision! We sit back and enjoy our drinks, the vibe is laid back, we make some new friends. Travis put it best, to those that know Detroit the problem isn’t finding something to do, it’s wondering what  you’re missing out on….yep. I flip through the Art X program and realize there is still much to see, we’ll be back.

Kirk in the Hills: Sunday Night Music

9 Apr

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Detroit has always been home to industry and innovation, creating great wealth among men; many of these men turned out to be extremely generous philanthropists. Edwin S George is one such man, in 1947 he donated Cedarholm, his home and estate for the creation of the Kirk in the Hills congregation of the Presbyterian Church. Kirk hosts special music events and concerts throughout the year, tonight we are attending a performance of The Passion according to St John by Johann Sebastian Bach. The Kirk campus resides on a 40 acre setting on Island Lake, the Gothic designed sanctuary is an imposing sight; the interior is equally impressive. Completed in 1958, the sanctuary looks and feels straight out of the 13th century. We purchase our tickets and have a look around, true to Gothic architecture my eyes are immediately drawn upward; I take in pointed arches, vertical lines and stately flying buttresses. Majestic stained glass windows in deep blue, red, white, with  a touch of yellow and green are immense and line both walls. Distinctive light fixtures dangle from long chains casting light both up and down. The floor is slate, a main aisle splits the nave in half, multiple rows of wooden pews make up each side. We find ourselves a seat and get comfortable; the concert is about to begin.

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The musicians have taken their seats in front of the altar, a group of about 20 white-robed choir members take their places. This is our first experience attending an oratorio. An Oratorio is a musical composition including an orchestra, choir and soloists using various characters and arias to tell a story. The tale of The Passion begins with the betrayal and capture of Jesus; the choir starts by singing a powerful chorus, a soloist playing an Evangelist stands at the lectern performing a recitative (sung speech), another plays the part of Jesus; voices are strong, dramatic. The story continues to be told by members of the Kirk Chancel Choir, the accompanying orchestra is magnificent, a beautiful Knight Vernon harpsichord rests between the front pews.  The music is stirring, it completely sets the mood; at times it is haunting. The church is exquisite, the ideal setting for this piece, the acoustics are perfect. I am following along in my program and see we are nearing the end; the final chorus has begun, it is loud, extravagant and moving. When it is finished there is a beat of silence before the applause begins. The sanctuary is an amazing place to attend musical events, the DSO will be performing here on April 13 and May 18. The 20th Annual Great Lakes Chamber Music Festival takes place here June 8-23, come check it out!

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It is nearly 10pm on Sunday, dinner is long past due. Birmingham is just a short drive away, we are sure something will still be open. We park in front of Dick O Dow’s on Maple, we luck out, they are still serving food. The chill of the night air disappears immediately as we step inside, the space is warm, cozy and oozes Irish charm. The floor is made up of wide wood planks, wainscoting and walls are rich, dark wood, as is the bar, the ceiling is painted and treated giving the whole room a rustic feel. Authentic instruments and knick knacks find homes on shelves throughout the restaurant; our waitress tells us everything came directly from Ireland, pretty neat! Our hunger has gotten the best of us and we order as quickly as possible; Irish Sliders which are made up of corned beef, Swiss cheese, cole slaw and 1000 Island Dressing are tasty and hit the spot. The Carey’s Special sandwich layers Irish bacon (think Canadian bacon), fried egg, Irish cheddar, lettuce and tomato on a baguette, fries come on the side, yum! We eat speedily, but enjoy each bite; afterward we kick back and relax for a bit soaking up the atmosphere. In one night we feel as if we have traveled back to 13th century Scotland and then to an old pub in Ireland. Who says there’s nothing to do on a Sunday?

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DETROIT: Rock City ?

30 Mar

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I’m not sure what it is about Detroiter’s, maybe it’s the hard working blue-collar mindset; all I know for sure is that when it comes to the weekends, we know how to have fun! What do you like? Broadway shows, professional sports, casino gambling, guided tours on foot, bike or bus, the symphony, ping-pong, art, concerts, movies, fine dining, taco trucks, grand architecture, festivals? You’re in luck, Detroit has all of that and more! Tonight we are set for a night on the town; dinner, concert and cocktails, sounds good doesn’t it? We will spend our entire evening in the Bricktown district, beginning with dinner at Sweetwater Tavern. Housed in a charming 1800’s orange-brick building, Sweetwater has been a local favorite for over 30 years. It’s almost 8 pm on a Friday night,the warmth feels good when we step inside; exposed brick walls, large arched windows and stained glass light fixtures give the room a cozy glow. Every seat at the bar is taken, lucky for us a booth remains empty, platters of chicken wings and ribs are being delivered to hungry patrons. We scan the menu, everything is homemade and it all sounds good. Deciding on a burger and Cajun Steak Bites we take turns between watching the Pistons on TV and checking out Detroit memorabilia that hangs on the walls. The food arrives; the burger is cooked just right, grilled onions and crispy bacon make a tasty combination, fries are served in a small deep-fry basket making a nice presentation. The steak bites are well-flavored, served with grilled pita bread and slaw, the mild pepper rings go great with the meat. We ate every last thing on the plate! A line was forming near the door, and our show was about to start; time to go.

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We cross the street and arrive at St. Andrews Hall, we are seeing Jessica Hernandez and the Deltas. The brick and stone building was originally built by the St. Andrews Society of Detroit, the Society was made up of Scotchmen and Scottish descendants to provide relief for Scots in need. The handsome space was used for meetings, celebrations and entertaining.  St. Andrews Hall has been a music venue since 1980, hosting trend-setting bands such as New Order, REM, Red Hot Chili Peppers, Nirvana, Nine Inch Nails and Green Day.  In true concert fashion there are two warm-up bands before the headliner. There’s a short wait to get inside, the sound of music drifts out onto the street. We make our way in to the main floor ballroom, a crowd is beginning to form, people stand in small groups, drinks in hand, smiles on their faces. James Linck is on first, his music is dreamy and mellow, red and blue lighting drifts across the crowds. The Mexican Knives are up next, they are louder, more rockin’ and seem to pump up the crowd. We wander around, checking out the building, there is a second floor balcony that allows you a birds-eye view of the goings-on below, there is additional meeting space on this floor too. The Knives play their last number, the stage goes dark, instruments are interchanged preparing for the big show of the night. Female bartenders hustle behind the black Art Deco style bar, the wall behind is antique wood with pastel colored back lighting, the joint is jumpin’

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We find ourselves a spot with a good view away from the crowd, the anticipation grows as individual spotlights shine down onto the empty stage, stilted members of the Detroit Circus announce Jessica and the Deltas, the crowd cheers for the hometown star and the music begins. Jessica is a 25-year-old beauty who does it all; singing, songwriting, she even manages the band. The product of a Mexican mother and Cuban father, she  grew up above the family business, Mexicantown Bakery, on Vernor in Southwest Detroit (YUM!). Her music is a combination of influences; Latin, New Orleans, gypsy, producing a one-of-a-kind sound. Tonight she is performing with six other band members, sure there’s a guitar player or two, a drummer and a keyboard, throw in a Tuba and saxophone and you have the Deltas. Her music is powerful and happy, it consumes her; you hear it in her voice, see it in her dance, feel it in your soul, even sad songs feel upbeat and make you want to dance. The audience was filled with family and friends, a true homecoming for an up and coming artist returning from touring and recording an album. She transitions from song to song, applause, cheers and whistles filling the space between, everybody is having a great time. The hour she played flew by, I wasn’t still for a moment, my mood was light, I had been thoroughly entertained. 

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With a spring in our step we walked around the corner to Jacoby’s on Brush Street to wind down with a night-cap. This is another one of those places that has been around forever, well, actually since 1904. The interior is endearing; antique tin ceiling, lots of wood, through the generations it has retained a bit of old world charm. We take a seat at the bar, order cocktails and drink in the surroundings; regulars are easy to spot with their easy-going conversation with staff members. As we sip our beverages we feel relaxed, another week has ended, but the weekend fun has just begun.

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DETROIT: Let it Snow !

6 Mar

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It’s late February in Detroit; the sky is overcast and gray, snow blankets the ground and the temperature hovers around 30 degrees. The People For Palmer Park are hosting Winterfest at the park; we put on our heavy socks and long johns, bundle ourselves up in our coats, scarves, gloves and we’re ready ! You may not realize it, but Palmer Park has acres of lawns, woodlands, hiking and biking trails and Lake Frances; perfect for a winter playground. We arrive just as the festivities begin, a line has already formed for the horse and carriage rides. We make our way through the snow to the shoveled sidewalk that surrounds Lake Frances, at a table volunteers are handing out a list for the scavenger hunt, nearby, folks are signing up  for the doggie fashion show to take place a little later. We pop in the warming tent, the heat feels great, musicians are setting up equipment, there’s a buzz in the air. The Green Zebra food truck is at the ready to provide food and beverages to attendees, mmmmmmm, smells delicious! We continue our walk around the lake, a portion of the ice surrounding the lighthouse has been cleared and is waiting for the skaters to arrive. Past the log cabin a large pile of snowshoes lay under a tent, volunteers invite us to give snowshoeing a try, why not? After we are safely buckled in to our over-sized footwear a guide offers to take us through the woods, she tells us there is a fire pit where we can warm ourselves. As we trek across the snow-covered trails I am struck by the beauty of the park, as we get deeper into the woods we are surrounded by the peaceful quiet that only comes from nature. I am no longer cold as the effort it takes to walk with snowshoes is far greater than boots alone. It is just the three of us, Kris, myself and our guide; as someone who has lived in the neighborhood for most of her life she tells us about the park and the changes she has seen through the years.

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The smell of firewood permeates the air, in the distance we see the low flames from the fire pit. When we reach the fire we lean against makeshift benches, a row of long sticks rests on a log across from us, wait, is that a bag of marshmallows? Why yes it is! Being careful not to trip and actually fall into the fire, we make our way to the other side, push a jet-puffed marshmallow into the end of our stick and begin the age-old ritual of roasting marshmallows over an open fire, it doesn’t get much better than this! When they are a perfect golden brown we extract them from our stick, put them in our mouth and smile with pleasure that comes from such a simple act. Our fingers become tacky with leftover white bits; a small price to pay for such deliciousness. A group approaches the fire, the children spot the bag of marshmallows and immediately get to work. We leave the cozy fire and head back into the woods, taking a different trail back to the festivities. We return our snowshoes to the tent and thank our guide. The time has almost arrived for the fashion show to begin; the line of canines stretches far down the sidewalk.  Dogs of every size and color are dressed for the occasion, from the simple fleece coat to full costume, we see a pirate, bumble bee and a super hero, some accessorize with scarves and sunglasses. The announcement is made and the parade begins; cameras click as both pet and owner pose, everybody is having a good time, including us!

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It’s time for lunch, we drive down Woodward into downtown and stop at Ye Olde Butcher Shoppe; not only are we hungry, but I need a few things for home. The building is created in the Art Deco style; its tan-colored stone and black trimmed windows make it an attractive part of the streetscape.  Seemingly modeled after the old-fashioned neighborhood markets, the shop carries a modest selection of groceries, fresh produce and household items. The main attraction is the fresh-cut meat, seafood and deli counter. Also featured are ready-made meals, soups, rotisserie meats, and a fantastic salad and olive bar. We choose a sandwich from the deli counter, employees are very friendly, we sample a few salads and settle on the pesto pasta salad, I scoop out chicken noodle soup from a large pot and we have ourselves a lunch. Another nice thing about the shop is the seating area along the Woodward facing windows, we have a seat enjoying both the food and the scenery. When we finish I grab my few items for home and we are off. UPDATE: Ye Olde Butcher Shoppe closed February 2014

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With so many new businesses opening in Detroit, it is fun to check them all out. We drive the few blocks over to 3rd Street where The Bottom Line Coffeehouse resides in the Beethoven Building. Through the black wrought iron gate and down a few steps the coffeehouse is located in the basement; exposed brick walls, counter seating and tables around the perimeter give the space a warm and welcoming feeling. Daily selections are posted on the chalkboard menu near the register; in addition to espresso and coffee drinks, they serve pastries from Traffic Jam & Snug, soups from Beautiful Soups and a variety of sandwiches and salads, all of it looks appetizing. I order a mocha and Kris an espresso to go, the barista informed me they used Calders chocolate milk for their mochas and hot chocolates……Yum! A splendid ending to our winter day.

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