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Marine City: Memories for Sale….

4 Apr

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Sometimes we all get a little stir crazy, you just want to get away, see something different. Maybe you’re short on time, you don’t have a whole weekend, only a Saturday. Let me introduce you to Marine City, this pint-sized town on the St. Clair River has more to offer than you might imagine; shops and restaurants, a beautiful historic City Hall building, a beach and an incredible water view. Today Kris was in the mood for a scenic drive, M-29 was just what he had in mind, bordering Anchor Bay and up along the St. Clair River it is both pretty and relaxing. Our plan is to do some antique shopping, we begin on Broadway, about a dozen different shops line the street, many of them purveyors of antiques; Back Porch, Old Times N Such,  and Girl Next Door to name a few. Each store seems to have its own special niche; one was almost all glassware and china, I had to be extra careful walking around in my winter coat with my purse hung over my shoulder. This lady has the loveliest cups and saucers I have ever seen, attractive patterns, bold colors and gold trim. She has depression glass in yellow, pink and green, even a souvenir plate from the old Ford Rotunda building, cool! We traversed both sides of the street, buildings are close together making it easy to go from one to the next. Some places are little antique malls, independent vendors each have their own booth adding variety to the selection. We see spiffy vintage radios and cameras, shiny black typewriters and early clock radios; we love the offbeat colors and streamlined styles.

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In another shop we see tin toys and rusty metal toy trucks, their wear a tell-tale sign of hours of play. We spy old railroad lanterns with red and blue glass, metal signs, bicycles and vintage instruments. One store has great kitchen ware from tables, stoves and toasters to Fiestaware, cookbooks and aprons. Antique stores are always an adventure, whether you buy something or not; the variety of items and time span covered is pretty amazing. We always see something we have never seen before, today it was a collection of ceramic fish liquor decanters; something that has to be seen to be appreciated. One of the larger places, the Vera Grace Emporium, has a marvelous array of antiques, shabby chic and new items; girls, you will love this place! A perfect blend of new and old items artfully arranged have me ooohing and aahhing at every display. New and vintage jewelry combined with yards of tulle and lace are frilly and attractive. Dark wood china cabinets are filled with delicate glassware, miniature white lights are draped around the pieces for a dazzling effect. An assortment of vintage mirrors, picture frames and upholstered chairs are eye-catching. Outdoor objects and garden pieces mingle side by side with hat boxes and shawls. This store deserves an A+ in eye-appeal and charm.

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At last hunger has distracted us from our shopping, we drive around the corner to Water Street and park in front of “The Original” Marine City Fish Company, where we will be having lunch. The restaurant sports large front windows, in the summer you will notice a steady stream of swimsuit clad pedestrians making their way to the beach. Inside, the theme, as you would expect, is fishing. Dozens of fish in a mixture of sizes, shapes and colors are mounted on the walls, funny sayings and fishing paraphernalia fill the wall space; there’s a nostalgic campy feel to the place. The menu offers much more than seafood; homemade pastas, house-smoked ribs and salmon, sandwiches and salads too, they even make their own beef tenderloin Jerky. We looked up from the menu to get a glance at a sandwich on its way to a table, no need to look any further, “we’ll take that!”  It didn’t take long for the food to arrive, a house salad, a side of crispy hand-cut fries and the sandwich; start with a fresh-baked Asiago roll, add a thick slice of brown sugar peppered bacon, a piece of Gouda cheese that has started to melt, top that with a chunk of fork-tender beef brisket drizzled with the house bbq sauce, and there you have it, one incredibly delicious sandwich. 

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There are more antique shops on this block, we stop in at the Water Street Antique Mall, as we enter I notice a variety a nautical pieces and decoys, an old bicycle and a bright orange Chrysler Sno Runner are displayed in the front window. Small rooms off-shoot from the main space, like items are grouped together. A gorgeous wood dining room set has caught the attention of a pair of shoppers. We finish looking around and head to the last shop a few doors down, it is almost closing time so we cannot linger for long. Many of the objects here are closer to mid-century, there’s a swanky bar cabinet complete with a glass ice bucket and matching glasses, a nifty art deco coffee serving set is mighty tempting. Glass ash trays and paper weights showcase fancy hotels and buildings from the early 20th century, so many interesting things to look at!

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No trip to Marine City is complete without visiting The Sweet Tooth. It is the weekend before Easter, the windows are filled with fanciful pastel-colored eggs, cute ducklings and spring flowers. Inside you will find the makings of an old-fashioned candy store; the left wall is lined with candy sold in bulk. Here you will find Mary Janes, Hershey Kisses, gumballs, black taffy, licorice and every type of ‘gummy’ or ‘sour’ candy you could want. Shelving units offer nostalgic candy from the 1900′s to the 1970′s, been looking for Zots, Pop Rocks, Razzles, Mallow Cups or a Chunky? They have those and more……At the back of the store a tasty array of ice cream flavors from Hudsonville await you. Served up in a dish or cone, it’s hard to resist flavors like Cake Batter, Tiger Traxx, Orange Pineapple and Sleeping Bear Dunes Bear Hug, and it’s all made right here in Michigan! If that’s not enough, owner Todd also sells his own handmade chocolates; from truffles to clusters, brownie pops and chocolate dipped Oreo’s to chocolate covered bacon and the best variety of barks you’ll ever see, his chocolates are divine. Sweet Tooth is whimsical, delightful and  impossible to leave without making a purchase; Kris selected a jalapeno and a peanut butter cayenne truffle, I went with Key lime and red velvet… and some Zagnut bars….and some Hot Tamales and….well, you get the picture, Yum! 

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CLEVELAND: Fun & Festive

18 Dec

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We awoke to a chilly November morning; rooftops had a light dusting of snow, downstairs Richard was busy making chocolate waffles for breakfast. Breakfast at Stone Gables is always scrumptious. Saturday was no exception, the waffles and homemade chocolate sauce were sinfully delicious. We had much to see, and new-found energy from the morning dose of sugar and caffeine to do it with. First stop: the Museum of Contemporary Art Cleveland (MOCA) located in the Uptown District. This is one of those new, funky-cool buildings; designed by Farshid Moussavi it is both her first US commission and her first museum. The building is 4 stories, the base is hexagonal and shoots up 60 feet to a square top. The exterior is a mirror-finish black  Rimex stainless steel, you can see yourself as you approach the entrance. The main floor is home to the lobby, cafe and museum store; as you look around the shape of the building is apparent, one of the main features is a gigantic stairway to the upper floors. There are four floors in all and each can be used for either exhibit space or public programs. The museum was bustling with visitors, it’s nice to see people excited about this recently opened venue. We climbed the stairs to check out the exhibits; gallery after gallery we viewed large paintings and sculptures, some life-like, some abstract. Each floor has windows that allow you a glimpse of the city completing the urban feel. The gallery has no permanent collection so the exhibits are never the same, always making you want to come back and see what’s new.

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We were motoring down Martin Luther King Jr drive near University Circle when our attention was drawn to a magnificent church. The door was open and people were going in and out, so we thought we see if we could take a peek. Just inside the door we were greeted by volunteers gathered to put up the Christmas decorations; they invited us in to have a look around, what luck! Eppworth Euclid United Methodist Church was designed by local architect Bertram Goodhue, his design included a towering steeple affectionately known as the “Holy Oil Can”. Built in 1928 is has many of the wonderful features found in churches back in the day; stained glass windows, granite exterior and stunning woodwork. 

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Back in the Jeep we continued down MLK  to the Rockefeller Greenhouse. Built in 1905 it was originally used to grow plants that would later be planted in the city’s parks, still used as a greenhouse it now includes display gardens. I love stopping in at different times of year to see the seasonal displays; I was anticipating rows of pots filled with Poinsettia’s in multiple colors, Christmas decorations and maybe a Cyclamen or two. Instead we found the seasonal beds full of round indentations, the Poinsettia’s waiting patiently in another area to be installed… bummer. Still the greenhouse was quite lovely with its fern grotto, mum display, fountains and a multitude of other greenery. The sun had come out inviting us to stroll the outdoor gardens. A very unique feature to the grounds is the Betty Ott Talking Garden For The Blind. A cement walkway leads through the garden, recorded messages play at certain points describing surrounding flora. A bronze statue of Helen Keller kneeling at a water pump is a main focal point, visitors can even operate the pump. Admission is free, well worth a look.

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Our stomachs reminded us that it was time for lunch, we drove back to Ohio City to eat at Johnny Mango World Cafe and Bar. Anytime we are in Cleveland we stop here for a meal, the food is excellent. As soon as we were seated Kris ordered a lemonade, they make it on the spot with fresh squeezed lemons and just the right amount of sugar. We knew what we were going to have before we even got here: the veggie quesadilla big plate, it comes with happy beans, grain of the day, Yucatan slaw and a grilled banana. The food arrived without delay, we divided it onto two plates and dug in. The quesadilla is loaded with sautéed veggies, the grain today is Jasmine rice and it is cooked perfectly, the Happy Beans are a red variety and quite tasty as was the slaw, the grilled banana is a sweet finish to the meal. Did I mention the fried tofu? Yum! We are just around the corner from the bed and breakfast, so we head back to relax before the evenings activities.

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Rested and ready to go we head downtown, tonight is the tree lighting and Winterfest. As we get closer to the activities the streets become increasingly busier with both automobile and pedestrian traffic. As we look for parking the fireworks show begins, before long we find ourselves standing street side with a wonderful view. The surrounding trees are strung with thousands of lights, high in the night sky fireworks burst into color, the crowd cheers, children laugh and the tiny dog near my feet looks for cover. When the finale has ended we decide to seek warmth in nearby historic buildings, Cleveland’s downtown has fantastic architecture.

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We follow the crowd to Tower City, once Cleveland’s train station, it is now a shopping mall. Fortunately the building has maintained its architectural integrity, it is stunning, ceilings are coffered and highly detailed. The place is packed, so we go over to the historic Renaissance Cleveland Hotel.…wow! Opened in 1918 this place is gorgeous! The lobby is grand and dripping with early 20th century finery, the place was jammed with people so we just got a quick look and moved on.

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Further on, we stopped in at the Arcade on Euclid, if you ever get to Cleveland, this is one place you shouldn’t miss seeing. Once inside we realized a wedding reception was taking place on the first floor, what a fantastic place to have it. Businesses were closed and just a few hotel guests lingered about as we quietly walked around. A beautifully decorated Christmas tree stood at the top of the stairway, lights were dimmed creating an elegant atmosphere. Even in the low light the fine Romanesque details of the building stand out, just stunning.

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We had been walking around downtown for a while now in 21 degree weather, our hands were cold and we were hungry. There’s a great little district on East 4th Street that has lots of restaurants and bars to choose from, so that was our destination.  Like the rest of downtown this district was all dressed up for the holidays, people were milling about coming and going from dinner or a show. We found ourselves in front of Saigon, the thought of Vietnamese food was appealing, so we went in. Feeling a bit overwhelmed by the enormous menu we asked our waiter for advice on ordering. He pointed out a few selections, we nodded our heads and that was that. First to arrive was Pho Tai (a sort of soup with rare beef) followed by Ga Xe (lettuce wrapped chicken) and for a main course Bun Xao Chay (vegetarian curry vermicelli). With all the food in front of us, it was clear we had over-ordered, but it sure was fun trying everything! The service was great and each dish tasty and unique.

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Walking back to the car we noticed a shop on the corner of 4th and Euclid called CLE Clothing; it was still open and busy with customers, so we went in to check it out. This is the store for all things Cleveland: t-shirts, hoodies, books, art, you name it. All kinds of goods showing pride in their home town. Appealing to both locals and visitors alike they were doing a brisk business tonight, after all the holiday shopping season had officially begun.

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Like Detroit, Cleveland has seen some tough times, but continues to reinvent and endure, c’mon, take a look.

On The Road To Cleveland……

11 Dec

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 There’s something really fun about traveling on Thanksgiving weekend as folks slip into holiday mode; towns are lit up with thousands of miniature lights, children line up to ask Santa Claus for that special gift, eggnog flows freely and Christmas carols become the music of choice. Through the years we have been as far north as Milwaukee and as far south as the Gulf, nobody celebrates the holidays with more enthusiasm than mid-westerners. We were due for a roadtrip, so we loaded up the Jeep and headed for Cleveland. When it comes to decorating for Christmas, this city goes all out. 

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By freeway you can make it from Detroit to Cleveland in just under three hours, but what fun is that? There is much to see and do along the way, for example, the Rutherford B Hayes Presidential Center in Fremont Ohio. Can’t say that we knew much of anything about our 19th President, funny how much more interesting history is to us now than back when we were in school, so we thought we’d stop in. The Hayes estate, named Spiegel Grove is an impressive 31 room mansion and sits adjacent to the Presidential Library and Museum. We arrived just in time for a tour. The home is quite  lovely, I was surprised by its size; the exterior is red brick, most notable is the wrap around veranda and rooftop lantern. Inside, the home remains just as it was when Rutherford and Lucy lived there; books, furniture, paintings, light fixtures, even dishes give you a peek into the private life of the man who was an attorney, served in the military, was a US Congressman, served 3 terms as the Governor of Ohio and one term as President of the United States.

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Rutherford was born about two months after his father passed away, he was raised by his mother and her bachelor brother Sardis Birchard.  Uncle Sardis was himself an attorney, he had the means to provide Rutherford a top-notch education, which included Harvard Law School. Uncle Sardis built his home in Fremont in 1859, he made it large enough for Rutherford and his young family to spend their summers in northern Ohio. Through the years as the family grew so did the home. It was here at Spiegel Grove that Rutherford lived when he was elected as President and the place he returned to after his years in the White House. After his presidency there was a huge addition including a library, reception room, and even indoor plumbing (Lucy must have been so happy!). A gorgeous 4-story walnut and butternut staircase was added, it leads all the way up to the rooftop lantern where you are treated to a 360 degree view of the property. It’s fascinating to see all of their things, and amazing that they all remained in the home. Much of the home has been restored; woodwork is handsome, wallpapers are covered with busy patterns so popular at the time, and lots of color. Everything in the home is accessible to visitors; there are no ropes or plastic runners, unfortunately photos are not allowed to be taken in the home,ugh. Gifts given to Rutherford during his political years are all on view, he brought back a painting of himself that was so large they had to raise the ceiling in the library. Rutherford and Lucy raised 8 children in the home, both passed away at home and are buried on the grounds. Fortunately the home stayed in the family, eventually the Hayes children deeded Spiegel Grove and all of its holdings to the state of Ohio. In 1912 ground was broken for the first presidential library and museum in the country, it opened in 1916 and is just a short walk from the estate.

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The museum is two floors of exhibit galleries and a research library. Here just under 2,000 artifacts are on permanent display, most enclosed in glass cases. They say they have 19,000 artifacts that tell about Rutherford, his family and Ohio history. He was highly respected as a leader and as a man; throughout his life he was concerned with minorities and the poor. He believed all people deserved an education and with it they could achieve better lives. He was active in both local and veterans affairs, they say his policies made business and industry stronger. We also learned Mrs. Hayes was the first president’s wife to be called the “First Lady”, she was also the first wife of a president to graduate from college. President Hayes began the “Easter Egg Roll” in 1878, which still continues today. This was such a great find, I’m so glad we came.

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As usual we were running way behind, we needed to stop for lunch. Luckily we were not far from the Quarry Hill Winery in Berlin Heights. Kris is very familiar with this part of the state and he knows a great route. The temperature had continued to drop and it was now snowing, fitting for the day after Thanksgiving. The wine bar at Quarry Hill sits smack dab in the middle of the vineyard and orchards,  surrounded in glass a fireplace anchors the back wall, there’s not a bad view to be found. It was mid-afternoon so the only food available was a meat and a cheese plate, which was ok with us, add a glass of apple wine and we’re happy. As we sat and ate in the large open room people began to drift in. We made quick work of finishing off the chunks of cheese, baguette, olives and meat, but lingered over the wine. The snow was coming down harder, it was time to continue our journey eastward. The miles pass quickly through the countryside; roads wind around curves and rise and fall over hillsides, every once in a while we pass a home decked out in Christmas attire.

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At last we arrived in Cleveland, first stop: Stone Gables Bed and Breakfast to check in, unload and freshen up. On our last visit we were impressed with the revitalization going on in the Gordon Square Arts District, Kris had checked the movie listings and found Life of Pi was playing at the Capitol Theatre, we had a plan….The schedule worked perfectly, we could have dinner first, then catch the movie (we might have snuck in an ice cream at Sweet Moses….). Detroit St has lots of places to choose from, we had heard good things about LUXE, with any luck we could get in. To our delight there was a high-top table open right in front of the window, we took our seats and scanned the menu as our waiter brought us water and told us the specials of the night. The selection includes something for everyone; we settled on pizza and salad. As we waited for our dinner to arrive, facing the window I noticed all the quotes posted on the glass; from the Dalai Lama and Lord Byron to Alfred Tennyson and Louis Armstrong their words give us food for thought. My reading is interrupted by laughter from a nearby table, I turn and take in the room for the first time; crystal chandeliers hang above, walls are exposed brick, a large antique Art Deco bar leans against the right side wall. Tables are filled with large groups tonight, people are laughing and making toasts, yes, the holidays are here. Our food arrives, we dig right in. The salad is a mix of butter lettuce, chick peas, olives and pickled onion topped with roasted cauliflower and drizzled with a raisin-sherry vinaigrette, it’s wonderful. The De-LUXE pizza is topped with a roasted red pepper sauce, chorizo, black olives, spinach and Manchego cheese, a perfect combination of salty and spicy, yum!

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The Capitol Theatre is a few blocks down from the restaurant, snow continues to fall but fails to accumulate, it’s cold, colder than it’s been in a long time. Detroit St. sparkles with the glow of Christmas lights, storefronts are decked out in holiday splendor. We arrive at the theatre and purchase tickets for The Life of Pi, the cashier hands us our 3-D glasses. We enter the main theatre and have a look around; built in 1923 and vacant for over 20 years, it has recently been restored and upgraded to all digital projection and 3-D capabilities. Once one big space, it is now divided into 3, the original main floor being the largest and most decorative. The ceiling is very ornate, the eclectic chandelier hangs from a large medallion in the center, decorative patterns please the eyes, along each side curtains hang in arches separated by flat plaster columns. What was once home to vaudeville stage shows now welcomes 21st century movie-goers. The lights dim, after the coming attractions have finished we all don our funky glasses and get ready for the main attraction. Time to relax.

OAKLAND COUNTY: Backroads & More….

21 Nov

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 Not yet ready to relinquish all that is autumn we decided to enjoy a scenic drive on a mild November Sunday. We gassed up one of the vintage cars and headed to Rochester, then northwest on Orion Rd, a real beauty with its twists and turns. Our first stop was the Goodison Cider Mill; we parked on the side, the aroma of just fried donuts greeting us as we exited the car. The building sports a fresh coat of blue paint, windows are trimmed in white. Inside we are face to face with all of the standard cider mill offerings; bags of Michigan apples, jars of jam and apple butter, gallons of cider, and an entire glass case filled with donuts, oh, and the specialty of the house: pistachio bread. Kris and I only had one thing on our minds; cider and donuts. I can’t resist the plain old cake style donut, here the blueberry are Kris’s favorite; a glass of cider and we were set. We sat on a bench under the partly sunny sky and ate our goodies, then it was back in the car headed west.

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Up the road slightly we hung a left on Clarkston Rd, the road covers rolling hills and passes several picturesque lakes; leaves are smoldering in large piles, they fill the air with their unmistakable scent. We arrive in downtown Clarkston, a charming village with quaint shops and fantastic restaurants (one of my favorite combinations). We park the car and walk down Main Street, we are heading up the hill to Clarkston Union. We arrive just before 3pm, brunch is ending, the dinner menu starts at 3, so we wait to order. The Lions are on TV, as 3:00 arrives the door continues to open as hungry patrons fill the seats. The building was originally a church, the stained glass window in the front floods the space in colored light, church pews provide ample seating. The menu is filled with really good, hearty dishes, they were known for their Mac & Cheese before it became trendy. We ordered a Plowshares plate and the Union Press of the day, so much good food and so delicious! The ingredients rotate for both selections; we were served salami, Roma tomatoes, red onion, white cheddar, carrot sticks, a baguette and fresh fruit on the Plowshares plate. I’m not exactly sure what was on the panini….roasted red peppers, maybe some artichokes, doesn’t matter, it was fantastic! We ate till we could eat no more.

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Next door is Union General Cupcakery, you can see where I’m going with this… We stepped inside to find a quaint little shop, the centerpiece being, of course, the display case loaded with cupcakes, cookies and dessert bars. Antique furniture fills the room, bookshelves are packed tightly with cookbooks and kitchen do-dads. Unable to decide on a cupcake flavor I continued to walk around the shop; kitchen goods give way to a gift shop stacked with unique and funky goods. After browsing through books, smelling candles, and trying on jewelry I was ready to make my decision. Kris knows what he likes, so the caramel pecan bar caught his eye immediately, the carrot cake cupcake won me over with its tasty batter and heavenly cream cheese frosting. They also serve ice cream, coffee drinks and a variety of hot chocolates, so remember to save room. Barely able to move we walked slowly back to the car; this is definitely one of those towns  worth the drive. Spend the day window shopping, have a great meal and check out the lovely homes.

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Back in the car we made our way to White Lake Rd and continued west through the wooded landscape to Indian Springs Metropark. The Environmental Discovery Center has wonderful exhibits and a cool underwater pond viewing room, that’s where we started. We descend the stairs, the reflection from the water creating a pattern on the walls and floor, we come to the tunnel, we are surrounded on three sides by water, albeit cloudy, for a cool yet creepy effect. Above, a layer of sand and algae lay on the glass, we proceed further into the dome area; fish swim near the bottom, sunlight plays upon the water, we have the area to ourselves. I sit on the bench and look out across the pond, Kris snaps photos of fish as they swim past, it is an interesting perspective of pond life. Down a narrow hall, a series of windows grants us more views, pieces of wood appear to be fuzzy with the growth of underwater vegetation, some resemble sea monsters…… Back upstairs we follow the displays and learn about our surroundings; a giant cattail shoots up from a glass basin mimicking wetlands, an over-sized grasshopper clings to a stem as a giant frog leaps toward a lily pad. We step out onto the deck and gaze at the pond, this time from outdoors. We follow the gravel trail and stop to read the informative signs along the way, all the while keeping an eye open for rattlesnakes, seriously….at last circling the pond. Surrounded by beautiful backroads this 2,200 acre park has plenty to offer, give it a look.

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Port Huron: Blue Water Roadtrip

5 Sep

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With another scorching summer on hand, we often take refuge with a drive along Michigan’s beautiful blue waters. One of our favorite routes is to follow the shoreline from Lake St Clair to Port Huron via M-29; the turquoise blue water and lake breeze does wonders for both mind and body.  In Port Huron the double span of the Blue Water bridge is picturesque as it crosses the St Clair river; the water turns a cobalt blue as it flows into Lake Huron, Canada awaits on the other side. We parked at the Thomas Edison Depot Museum located on Edison Parkway; in front of us the Thomas Edison River Walk stretches south from under the bridge to the USCG dock; a favorite spot for sight-seers, walkers and fishermen, it is always a bevy of activity.  Today we were in search of a little history and some air conditioning; inside the museum we go!

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Built in 1858 for Grand Trunk Railroad the tiny Fort Gratiot Depot is now home to the Thomas Edison Depot Museum. As you can clearly see, young Thomas made a great impression on the city during his boyhood years. The Edison family moved to the area from Ohio, that’s where his story begins. I think it’s cool that this is the actual structure where Thomas worked as a “news butcher”; beginning in 1859 the then 12-year old boy departed daily from this depot on the Port Huron to Detroit run. The young entrepreneur actually published the first newspaper to ever be printed on a moving train, the Grand Trunk Herald; his job was to sell newspapers and candy to train passengers, he was quite successful. There is not a lot of square footage for exhibits, but all look fresh, are done well and give visitors an opportunity to participate hands-on. The timeline continues into Edison’s adulthood and success as an inventor. A restored baggage car is just outside the museum, you are able to go inside and have a look at what Thomas’s printing shop and mobile chemistry lab would have looked like. The museum is really interesting, be sure and stop in.

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We continued our drive south on the parkway to Pine Grove Park where the Huron Lightship Museum is embanked; definitely check this out! Built in 1920 she was launched simply as Lightship 103 of the United States Lighthouse Service. Back in the day, floating lighthouses were used in places where it was too deep or too costly to build an actual lighthouse. A light shone brightly at the top of a mast, ships also sounded fog signals when visibility was difficult. This was the last lightship afloat on the great lakes; it was retired from active service in 1970, enshrined at Grove Park in 1972 and in 1989 the Huron was designated a National Historic Landmark. It is an amazing opportunity to be able to climb aboard such a neat piece of history. We first wandered around the main level and got an idea of what it was like for the crew to live aboard; the galley is long and narrow, complete with stainless steel sinks and counters, a small dining area consists of a simple table and chairs, cots dangle from chains in the sleeping area…..not exactly roomy. We climbed down the ladder into the engine room; originally powered by a compound steam engine, in 1949 it was converted to diesel power using 2, 6 cyl. GM 6-71 engines. Get an up-close look at the gauges, tanks and over-sized components that made this ship run;  hard hats and lanterns hang overhead; I can only imagine how loud it must have been down here. Back up the ladder, a turn, then up another stairway to the weather deck; here you get a complete panoramic view of the dazzling river, bridges and deep blue lake, Wow! Here you also have access to the pilot house, complete with its signature brass steering wheel and numerous gadgets. When we completed our tour it was time for lunch, we drove a little further south to the banks of the Black River to find some outdoor dining.

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This area of downtown in particular seems to be thriving with new life; every time we come there seems to be a new restaurant or cafe. Quay Street Brewing Co. offers both indoor and outdoor dining on two levels with fantastic water views; we chose outdoor. There was a table available right along the river’s edge; we were on the upper deck, mounds of Wisteria vines hang off the side and create a roof over the patio level. As we started to look at the menu our attention was diverted by the rumbling sounds that can only be made by a powerboat; sure enough we had stumbled upon the 2nd Annual International Offshore Powerboat Races at Port Huron/Sarnia. That’s the advantage of living on the great lakes, it seems no matter where you go or what lake you are near you can always find yourself smack dab in the middle of some great event. Kris inspected the boats more closely as they traveled by on the Black River, going to and from Lake Huron, I studied the menu. First order of business at a brewery; choose a beer. I am very fond of dark beers, so it was an easy choice with the Black River Stout. Food was more difficult because everything looked good. We settled on the Muffuletta sandwich; a wonderful diced olive mixture topping a stack of salami, mortadella, capicollo and provolone on a roll. The Garden Salad was large; crunchy romaine and veggies with a unique lemon-mint vinaigrette, delicious and refreshing. We sat at our table under the shade of a bright yellow umbrella; the food was tasty, the beer, excellent and the boat race an unexpected pleasure. Yes, it’s good to live in Michigan!

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A few local folks told us about a new ice cream shop in town, so we went over to have a look. I know I’ve said it before, but, Port Huron has a gorgeous downtown, the lovely Victorian style of a by-gone era still remains here. The Mackinac Island Creamery on Water St is located in one such building; beautiful red brick and fanciful trim painted in shades of green, looking as pretty as it did when it was new. Inside we discover its former life as a bank; along the back wall a safe serves as a reminder; incredibly fancy it even has a landscape painting as part of its decor. The ceiling is unusually stunning; an intricate wood design that carries down a cove. The shop serves, as you may have guessed, Mackinac Island Creamery brand of ice cream in 12 delicious flavors, they also sell Mackinac Island Trading Co. fudge and  POHO popcorn.  The flavors all sounded good, there is a different feature ice cream each month, the flavor for August was a creamy vanilla ice cream with rich cinnamon swirls throughout, like eating a decadent cinnamon roll, yum! The shop was busy with customers; a family stood by the map of the US placing a pin near their hometown in Pennsylvania. It’s good to see people discovering Port Huron and our beautiful Blue Water Area!

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UP NORTH: Old Mission Peninsula, can’t we just stay ……

25 Aug

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 We arose to the peace and quiet of the country, out the back window the cows were already grazing. After a quick breakfast ourselves, we were out the door; we had a full day ahead. Between the place we were staying and the place we were going, is a historic Traverse City landmark now known as The Village At Grand Traverse Commons. One of the largest historic preservation and mixed-use projects in the nation, it took a former mental health facility and turned it into a unique place to shop, eat and live; both cool and creepy at the same time. The size of the complex is daunting; Victorian-Italianate structures are expansive in size and number.We had very little time to investigate; we parked the car and did a quick walk through of one of the buildings, it’s remarkable what they have done. Once abandoned property is now home to thriving restaurants and bakeries, artists sell their creations in individual galleries, entrepreneurs give their dream business a go, it’s all very grass-roots. We passed a coffee shop and winery in one building, a cheesecake shop in another, there’s so much to see; it will have to wait until our next visit, the big lake was calling……..

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Narrowly situated between the east and west arms of Grand Traverse Bay is Old Mission Peninsula (sigh). I think of it as Michigan’s own little piece of paradise. As opposed to using Center Rd (37) take the lesser traveled routes like Peninsula Drive, Smokey Hollow Road and Bluff Rd, they offer spectacular views; for much of the drive the sparkling turquoise water of Lake Michigan is in sight. Lush vineyards heavy with grapes grow on slopes of land as far as the eye can see; apple orchards are getting ready for their big show in the fall, roadside stands offer ripe peaches and “washed” cherries. Fertile farmland is home to tall stalks of corn, ripening tomatoes and lovely red barns sitting in fields. Plots of land are filled with hundreds of leafy green hops climbing up support wires, cherry trees are hoping for better luck next season. From the road we see an amazing array of homes; a tall, narrow, glass house in contemporary design sits right at the shoreline, long modern ranches are terraced into the bluffs, perched way up high grand homes get a panoramic view of both bays. There are no traffic lights, fast food restaurants, gas stations or billboards; a welcome change from city life. A seasonal road invites us to take a ride through the dense woods, two dirt tracks lead the way. Before long, large rocks make it impossible to continue, we park and walk the rest of the way. The terrain of course, is deep sand, bits of sticks poke out so we keep our shoes on, we emerge from the cool shade of the woods into the heat and sun on the beach. The lake is magnificent; the color varies from the clear sandy shore to the azure of the deep water, it is breathtaking. There is not another soul in either direction, the scene is ours for the keeping. Gentle waves lap the shoreline, the air is still, I find a rock to use as a chair as Kris tries to capture the serenity of the setting in photos.

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You may have heard that Michiganders know a thing or two about making wine; seven wineries call Old Mission Peninsula home, giving us the opportunity to see for ourselves what all the buzz is about. Our first stop is Bowers Harbor Vineyards, I love the drive to the parking area; it gives you a up-close look at the vines. Inside our senses are awakened with the aroma of wine; visitors mill about selecting bottles from racks, we head to the bar to indulge in a tasting. We go down the list from dry to sweet, enjoying every pour, making note of the ones we like best, conversation flows easily, you can’t help but enjoy the experience. We carefully place our purchase in the Jeep and make the drive to 2 Lads. Positioned high on a bluff, the building’s design is purely contemporary, the wall behind the tasting bar is all glass, offering an incredible overlook of land and lake. Not usually white wine drinkers, we find the Michigan whites irresistible; we carefully place our bottles besides the others in the Jeep.

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When we are on the peninsula we make it a point to pick up lunch at the Old Mission General Store in Old Mission. Put the store on your list of places to visit; built in the mid 1800′s it has always been a trading post of sorts. Pass through the doorway and back in time; if the owner is there be sure and say hello, if you’re lucky he’ll tell you a few stories. The interior is a hodge podge of things old and new; a black pot-bellied stove sits front and center, antique lanterns and signs hang from the rafters, the wood plank floor creeks as shoppers wander around. Wooden barrels contain ginger snaps, and dill pickles, old-fashioned glass jars tempt with red and black licorice, Moomers ice cream is being scooped onto cones. We head over to the prepared food counter, we order their awesome Italian sandwich and pick up a few sides. With cold root beer from the cooler and a handful of napkins we have all the fixings for a picnic on the beach. Haserot beach is just down the road; picnic tables reside in the sand facing the east arm; kayaks, swimmers and boats all compete for space off shore. We unpack our brown paper bag of delicious edibles and devour our lunch.  There are still five more wineries to visit…..

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Old Mission Peninsula is located at the globe’s 45th parallel; an ideal wine growing region which also includes the Bordeaux region of France and the Piedmont and Lombardy region of Italy. Grapes grown here consist of Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Riesling and more; the local ice wine is excellent. Next on our list was Chateau Chantal; high atop a ridge, it offers the most exquisite view. After our tastings we take a stroll on the patio; both east and west bays can be seen from this vantage point, the land between green with vineyards and orchards, breathtaking. We drop by Brys Estate and Chateau Grand Traverse; the tasting room of each unique, we always find something we like. Peninsula Cellars is a converted one room schoolhouse built around 1896; with the original windows, floor, slate boards and bell still in place it has a great atmosphere. The staff that does the pouring is super friendly and knowledgeable, this was the place we liked the most wines; as a matter of fact, we needed a box to get our selections to the car! At the southern end of the peninsula is Black Star Farms, we make our way to the tasting bar which is made from wine barrels, of course! We sample wine, eat crackers and have nice conversation, not a bad way to spend a day right? I like walking around the ‘showrooms’, as I call them; each winery has its own personality, wine bottles are displayed with award-winning ribbons, some offer fruit and cheese to go, chocolate is always available. The vines themselves are lovely; tight clusters of grapes hang gracefully waiting for the harvest, it is all so picturesque. 

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After resting at the condo we drive to downtown Traverse City for dinner; it’s a perfect evening to be outside, the film festival has come to an end, people are out on the sidewalks in great numbers. Again eateries are staying open late to accommodate the influx of tourists; we are hoping for an open table at Poppycock’s. When we arrived there was a short wait, at 10pm the place was still buzzing with patrons. We were famished, so we swiftly made our selections. The Front Street salad comes with chunks of cherry jalapeno glazed chicken breast and a lemon cherry vinaigrette, quite good. The cherry almond salmon is also a tasty dish; almond crusted salmon is served over a bed of orzo and a side of grilled asparagus, yum.  After dinner we spent some time just walking around, the later it got the quieter the town became; at some point we were two of the very few people left on the streets. Each night as we drive back to the condo we are treated to a star-studded sky, tonight’s was extraordinary. As we drove along the now familiar Cedar Run Rd it hit me that this was our last night here, but I am content, I know that when I leave I will be taking with me the unforgettable experience that is “up north”.

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UP NORTH: From Tip to Traverse…..

19 Aug

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We awoke to the sound of absolutely nothing; all that peace and quiet, we slept later than planned, “Up North” will do that to you. Today would be spent in the Jeep, enjoying another scenic ride. We made the decision to take a direct route up to the ring finger area of the mitten, also known as Sturgeon Bay, then enjoy the slow pace and picturesque views along the water coming back down; this was a good plan. Lakeshore Drive runs along Sturgeon Bay for miles, the length of it remote beach, finally ending in Wilderness State Park. Cars pull off and park roadside; swim suit wearing pedestrians carry beach bags and towels, looking for their own private stretch of beach. It was hot, the temperature near 90 when we left Traverse City, the warm sand squeaking as we walked, the water clean and clear. Finding a spot not too close to anybody else we laid our towels out on the soft sand and sat down; again finding ourselves staring out into the aquamarine lake. I find it a daunting task grasping for words to describe such a scene; remarkable, dazzling, and resplendent come to mind. Lake Michigan is a force, a living, breathing entity, it draws me in and takes me under its spell; no matter how many times I see it, I can never get enough. The drive ahead will provide us with marvelous views of both lake and land; M-119, the Tunnel of Trees

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Because of our late start, it was already lunch time; Cross Village was just ahead, it is one of the oldest settlements in Michigan, but what has really put it on the map, so to speak, is a unique restaurant, built high on a bluff overlooking the big lake, serving Polish Food for over 90 years; this my friends is Legs Inn. Referred to as an “architectural marvel”, the building is the hard work and dream of one Stanley Smolak, a Polish immigrant who created the furniture and structure from tree stumps, limbs, roots, driftwood and stones he found in the surrounding area. Cross the threshold and enter a fantasy land of nature tamed into whimsical usefulness and purpose; tables, chairs, ceiling timbers and benches, it is an incredible sight! This was our first visit ever where there wasn’t a line to be seated. The business has grown through the years and now includes manicured gardens and outdoor dining; it was a perfect August day, we headed straight for the patio. Tourists mill about on the lush green lawn, posing for photos by the different hand carved totem poles, perennial beds, and most popular, standing by the wall that overlooks the lake. Service was swift; before we knew it we were scooping up forkfuls of bigos, golabki, and dutifully dipping pierogi into cups of sour cream. Along with the combination plate we indulged in apple and cheese nalesniki; everything was outstanding. No time to linger, we have over 27 miles of fantastic, twisty, and winding road ahead!

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At first glance the road appears to be a single lane, as a center line is non-existent; with a little give and take, it is accommodating to two-way traffic. Lining the roadway are mature trees giving you the feeling of driving through a forest; the largest ones actually meet over the road creating a tunnel. Adhering to the eastern shoreline, the pavement rewards us with awe-inspiring glimpses of Lake Michigan.

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We find ourselves in Good Hart; a series of small businesses make up the miniscule town. We park roadside, the appeal of the Northern Crepes cart too much to resist; something sweet to follow up our lunch. We stretch our legs with a walk through Primitive Images, a splendid cabin circa 1840 that was moved from Quebec and rebuilt on this spot. Beautiful pieces of furniture made from Birch, Willow and Hickory twigs, etched glass pieces, and an antler chandelier are all browse worthy. In the back the Good Hart and Soul Tea Room resides; we purchased cold drinks then retreat back outdoors for a simple, delicious, butter, sugar and cinnamon crepe. A Studio is filled with more good things, catering specifically to women; scarves, T-shirts, shoes and jewelry, it’s all lovely.  This charming little group of shops is totally unexpected and a fantastic find on a road that is a destination in itself.

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A little further south we find ourselves in a tight horseshoe curve known as Devil’s Elbow, the corners of Kris’s mouth tilt up in a grin as he maneuvers the Jeep. Here and there it is possible to pull over and take in the surroundings; the alluring waterscape, picture perfect farms, and gorgeous countryside. We arrive in Harbor Springs, a well-known resort town that looks like it would be right at home on the east coast. We drive up to the top of the bluff; a residential area with grand old homes and enjoy the remarkable view of Little Traverse Bay. Cutting back through town the sidewalks are crowded with tourists; cars drive up and down the main street in search of parking; wedding guests meander toward the large white tent near the lake.

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M-119 ends at Bayview, part of the Chautauqua movement, it was founded by a group of Methodists to be used as a retreat, it is sensational! There are said to be 440 cottages, most built in the high Victorian style. We parked by one of the community buildings and hit the pavement; you have to go on foot to see all of the amazing details. The array of colors make each cottage unique, many are surrounded by well-tended gardens; plan on spending at least an hour walking around. Now on US 31 we arrive in Petoskey; we ascend into the gaslight district with its wonderful view of the bay. Petoskey is the largest town on this coast, its quaint downtown area is made up of several blocks of shops, restaurants, hotels and cafes. If your sweet tooth is calling, there are plenty of places you can pick up some fudge or ice cream. A visit to American Spoon is a must; in addition to their vast selection of jams, jellies, sauces and salsa’s you can also indulge in Gelato or sorbet, yum!

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And onward we go…..In Charlevoix we check out the whimsical homes built by Earl A Young; the largest concentration located along Park Avenue, Clinton and Grant Streets. Built entirely of stone with cedar shake roofs, they are known as fairy or mushroom houses; no two are alike. As we walk I am continually pointing and saying “make sure you get a picture of that” door, or window or chimney. I’d love to see the inside! Next we take a quick stroll through downtown; standing on a strip of land that separates Lake Michigan from Lake Charlevoix, the vista is awe-inspiring; there needs to be a word  just for this! Throughout the entire day I have seen nothing but smiling faces; of course the ice cream and fudge may have something to do with that……When you visit this area the beauty gets right into your system; it soothes you. We planned the day as a drive, but each one of these attractive old-fashioned towns is worthy of a day spent roaming in and out of shops, a walk on the beach and a fabulous meal. 

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After a stop at the condo to freshen up for dinner we mosey back to Traverse City for dinner. Because of the film festival everything is staying open late, lucky for us because it almost 10 pm. We wanted something light; FireFly on Cass has a broad menu that includes sushi, just what we were looking for. The place was packed, but a table for two was easy to come by. After a wonderful meal we roamed around on foot, the streets still thick with festival-goers. We popped into Phil’s on Front for coffee and dessert, if you like chocolate be sure to stop in any time of day….We split a piece of the Northern Star, along with really good coffee and live music it was a relaxing way to end a perfect day.

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UP NORTH: M-22, The Leelanau Peninsula

14 Aug

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We’ve been trying to get up here for what seems like ages; the proverbial “Up North” getaway, something always seemed to get in the way. Michigan has a plethora of fantastic, beautiful scenery, but to us, the northwest corner is king. Like all of our trips, we cram a lot into a little time; today we’ll show you some of our M-22 favorites. We leave the metro area via M-15, then hop onto M-115 via US10. While certainly not unpleasant, the scenery along the way looks like much of Michigan; then we make our way to the tiny hamlet of Beulah and catch our first glimpse of the perfectly aqua water of Crystal Lake; we have officially arrived.It was already time for lunch when we first set eyes on this gorgeous inland lake; we stopped in Beulah, grabbed a carry-out from L’chayim Deli, and took it to a table lake side to eat. The village does a great job allowing the public access to the lake with its pavilion, small beach and seating areas. With a perfect view of the water, we dug into our sandwiches; the Jerusalem: artichoke hearts, black pepper feta spread, red onion, lettuce and tomato on a salt bagel, and the Oy Vai: Corned beef, pastrami, cream cheese, pepper jack, red onion, lettuce, tomato, and Dijon mustard on multi-grain bread; both were delicious.

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Onward we went; we continued our tour of Crystal Lake driving the perimeter, then on to Frankfort, across Betsie Lake and on to Elberta. Perched on the side of a sand dune is a small gallery/coffee shop called Trick Dog. What a cool place! The building itself is adorned with funky details, the large front porch overlooks the serene Betsie Bay, large sculptures on the grounds encourage smiles. The gallery itself is filled with unique art work, it also sells an interesting array of housewares, dog accessories, jewelry and T-shirts. The espresso bar offers a variety of beverages along with baked goods, yum! We enjoyed our coffee break, stopping briefly for a panoramic view of Lake Michigan, and pointed the Jeep northIt would be impossible to tell you about every charming town and spectacular view we had the pleasure of experiencing on our trip, so I will try to narrow it down to highlights and favorites; then you will have to make the trip and see for yourself what an amazing place this is! 

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The Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore has been swarmed with visitors since being voted America’s Most Beautiful Place by Good Morning America, with good reason, it’s absolutely stunning. Our favorite way to see it? Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive. At just over seven miles long this narrow road leads you through the forest and dunes; scenic turnouts provide spectacular vistas of Glen Lake and of course,  Lake Michigan and Sleeping Bear Dunes. The Lake Michigan overlook is 450 feet above the lake itself; the beach below  a resting spot for those about to embark on the steep climb to the top. Anchored near shore are boats of all sizes, their passengers cooling off with a late afternoon dip. As Kris wanders about taking photos I make myself at home atop the dune; the sand has absorbed the heat of the sun, increasing my body temperature. As I gaze outward the lake seems to go on into eternity; what do you call that color of blue? It’s quiet here, even though the dune is littered with people, I watch the progress of the climbers as family and friends cheer them upward. Kris got my attention, we moved on to the deck that  hangs out over the dune; probably the most popular place to take pictures. It is easy to detect the changes in depth here by the varying shades of blues. There is no end to the comings and goings of tourists.

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We still had much to do before day’s end, Glen Arbor was our next destination. As somebody who likes getting somewhere as much as being there, M-22 is a dream drive for my husband; winding roads are smooth and even, traffic lights do not exist. Orchards, farms and tiny towns speck the vast open land, it is serene and picturesque. We arrived in Glen Arbor and drove straight toCherry Republic , with a motto of  ”Life, Liberty, Beaches and Pie”, what’s not to love? We started at the winery and tasted to our hearts content; after narrowing it down to two bottles we made our purchase and stepped next door to the Great Hall of The Republic. Here you will find a mind-blowing array of cherry products, I will not even attempt to list them, you can click on the link to their website and see for yourself. The store itself has shelf after shelf of items, generous samples abound; it’s a good thing they do not weigh you as you come in and as you leave, it could be embarrassing….The products are truly outstanding; made with the highest quality fruit, nuts and chocolate, they are second to none.

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With our sweet tooth satisfied and a stash of goodies to last us the next few days, it was back on M-22 and up the Leelanau Peninsula. We stopped briefly in Leland, took a quick walk through Fishtown and then drove out to the tip of the peninsula and Lighthouse Point. Again, the view is remarkable, the air feels fresh and clean in my lungs, my body feels relaxed, at ease. We walk the shoreline taking more photos of water, the sight never becomes tiresome. Folks have begun stacking rocks, creating towers of all shapes and sizes. We notice the sun is getting lower, our cue to head back down the peninsula, this time following the east shoreline.

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Northport has grown since our last visit; a quick stop at the quaint Kamp Grounds Coffee and Creamery provided us a much-needed beverage. Omena, Peshawbestown and Suttons Bay are all enchanting little villages, darling shops and cafes call to us, but the clock and water views keep pulling us onward. Next visit we will dedicate an entire day to this lovely peninsula, its towns and wineries. For us it is time to head into Traverse City and get some dinner! When we arrived in the city is was after 9pm and the town was packed; the Traverse City Film Festival was in full swing. For an instant panic set in, would the restaurants be lined up out the door? Only one way to find out….Last time we were in town we ate at a little place on Union called Soul Hole, described as eclectic southern cuisine, the food was excellent; we were hoping to get dinner there tonight. We lucked out with a parking place right in front of the door and no line to be seated, whew! With a quick glance at the menu we placed our order and sat back in our booth, we had been on the go since early morning. Without much delay plates of food arrived at the table; fried green tomatoes, crispy outside, juicy inside with a spicy creole dipping sauce. The house salad was served with a sweet corn vinaigrette, very tasty and then there’s the southern fried chicken…fried to a perfect golden brown, tender and well seasoned it is out of this world; the cornbread and grits were pretty awesome too! When our meal was finished the day had finally settled down upon us, we were in need of a comfy bed and a good night sleep. Fortunately for us it was just a short drive to the place we would call home for the next few days; a condo on loan from dear and generous friends.

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PITTSBURGH: Eye Candy

3 Aug

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We awoke early; it was our last day in Pittsburgh and we had so much to do!  Breakfast at The Priory is out of this world; laid out buffet style, grab a plate and dig in. This Sunday they were serving hard-boiled eggs, fresh fruit platter, a selection of hard and soft cheeses, salami, mustards, a pound cake like sweet bread and an array of pastries that made my mouth water. It is an amazing variety of food accompanied by really good coffee. We filled our plates; juggling dishes, silverware and beverages, we managed to make our way out to the garden courtyard; this is the life! Then, with our appetites satisfied it was time to gather our belongings and hit the sight-seeing trail.

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Pittsburgh is made up of a succession of unique neighborhoods; as you drive around, the city never lets you forget it’s a blue-collar town. Built up by industry and manufacturing it is clear this is where working men lived, I love that about this place. Heading east and south from downtown you pass through The Strip, Bloomfield (their Little Italy), Shadyside (a little more trendy) and then our destination of Oakland.  The Oakland area is home to many cultural attractions; we were here to visit Phipps Conservatory. Open since 1893 this steel and glass Victorian greenhouse is an elegant sight. Inside concrete pathways lead you from room to room; Orchids, Ferns, desert plants and Victorian gardens will enchant you. The Summer Flower Show is titled Fountains of Youth; a collection of displays that incorporate water features with healing plants, aromatic herbs, spices, fruits and veggies. Hibiscus, Zinnia and Lantana dazzle us in oranges, pinks and yellows; fish swim in shallow ponds and tubes of bubbling water catch our attention. On the main floor they were demonstrating the process of extracting honey, fascinating! The Butterfly Forest is popular with both amateur and professional photographers; these flying wonders of color seem eager to pose. 

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Our next destination was the Cathedral of Learning, at 535 feet tall, this is the world’s second tallest tower of classrooms. Decked out in Indiana limestone, the lavish Gothic architecture structure is impressive. Considered the centerpiece of the University of Pittsburgh’s main campus, ground was broken in 1926 and it was  finally dedicated in 1937. Put this on your list of places to visit! Inside we were taken aback by the massive Commons Room; this three-story Gothic masterpiece is used as a general study area. Seriously, I don’t know how anyone could take their eyes away from the view long enough to study. Inside the walls are Indiana limestone, floors are green Vermont Slate; the arches are stunning. Visitors and locals alike come to ramble through the building. Twenty-nine “Nationality Rooms” are located on the first and third floors; these are actually classrooms designed and decorated to represent the culture of different countries. You have to see them; representing countries like Italy, Poland, Ireland, China and France, no detail is left out. My favorite one  was the Austrian Room; Baroque in design,  the room features red tapestry walls, a parquet floor, ceiling murals and of course Lobmeyer crystal chandeliers, it is absolutely gorgeous. Some of the rooms are open most of the time, to see each and every one take the audio tour, along with your listening device you get a key that allows you entry to all the rooms.

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Just outside the cathedral in Schenley Park is the Heinz Chapel, dedicated in 1938 this structure is magnificent. Also made of Indiana limestone, the carvings are exceptional both inside and out. Lanterns, door fittings and railings are wrought iron; the wood is oak, they say each entrance door weighs 800 lbs! From the carvings to the windows the buildings theme is spiritual values in education; concepts Anna Margaretta Heinz believed in. Her son Henry John Heinz, founder of H J Heinz, arranged in his will for the building to be built in her honor. Take the time to check it out.

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We drove back downtown for lunch. We stopped in at Dibella’s Old Fashioned Submarines on Market Square and grabbed some food, then walked over to the plaza at PPG Place to eat. The fountain is the main draw of the plaza; jets of water shoot up from the surface in varying patterns and heights, then disappear back into the surface. On a hot day such as today, its popularity grows. Kids and grown-ups alike dart through 140 columns of water, the smaller ones shrieking in joy. The tiniest of visitors find it all very puzzling, just when they give up and think the water is gone for good it pulses up again; it makes for great entertainment. The plaza is located in the center of the 6 building PPG complex; the buildings are all of matching glass design and boast 231 glass spires. Often referred to as the “crown jewel” of the Pittsburgh skyline, we think it is cool modern architecture. 

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The hours were ticking by too quickly, but we still had time to visit to the Children’s Museum. Spread out over four floors, there is lots to do! The Wizard Of Oz exhibit is based on the classic movie; I think I had as much fun as the kids. Here you can climb the witches castle and retrieve her broom or visit the Gale farm. You see what it felt like in Dorothy’s bedroom when it was caught up in the tornado and then travel to Emerald City. The Attic features a large doll house, the girls love this one. Get your fortune told by Zelda the Fortune Teller machine or walk around at a 25 degree angle in the gravity room. Adults like to gather in the Garage, here you will find things that drive, fly and roll. Play Hide and Seek in 5 and 7 foot tall tires, build a custom racetrack for toy cars or launch parachutes off a vertical conveyor. Upstairs is home to a 53-foot water table, a very active area. The museum provides bright yellow slickers and water clogs to help keep the kids dry, I have my doubts about that…tikes dressed in yellow from head to toe splash around in the shallow pond, older kids work on creating fountains from pipes sprinklers and elbows, some of them are quite good. All in all the place is a bevy of activity and laughter.

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It was nearly 5pm, time to take the scenic route back west to the Motor City. We are still getting to know this complex city, and having a blast doing so. 

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ROADTRIP: Eating up Pittsburgh

30 Jul

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Morning had arrived; after a quick breakfast at the hotel we packed our things and got back on the road; we would be in Pittsburgh in less than three hours. We have visited this city several times, but it can still be intimidating.  Make a wrong turn? In most cases it is not a simple matter of turning around; oh no, here you find yourself on a bridge, crossing one of three rivers, in some cases the road takes you directly into a tunnel….a long tunnel. Once you figure out where you are, you have to reverse the process and try again; if you’re not in a hurry it can lead to some very interesting sight-seeing. Luckily for me Kris has an amazing sense of direction and we can usually get where we want without too much trouble.

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The first stop on the day’s agenda was The Strip. Located just outside of downtown, this is Pittsburgh’s historic market district. Back in the 1820′s this area was mostly industrial; iron mills, glass factories and foundries employed both locals and southern and eastern European immigrants; by 1915 80% of strip district residents were foreign-born, 30% were Polish. Andrew Carnegie got his start in the iron and steel industries here with mills on Smallman and 33rd. In the early 1900′s produce merchants began moving into the strip to be near the Pennsylvania railroad yards; remember back then everything was transported by train. Produce terminals, auction houses and wholesalers took up residence on Smallman and Penn; unfortunately The Depression then a massive flood and finally WWII took their toll on the area. Soon trucks replaced railroads and chain grocery stores took over small independent stores; in the 1970′s 71 wholesale produce dealers remained in the strip, by 1970 only two dozen were left; we in Detroit know the cycle all too well. The good news is today The Strip is alive and well!

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We parked on Smallman and were amazed at the amount of people and activity in the area. Penn is the main street these days, so that’s where we started;blocks are long, the street seems never-ending. If you are looking for something food related I’d be willing to bet you can find it here; meat shops, fresh produce, street-side grills, ethnic food stores, spice shops and chocolate; I counted 4 coffee shops. There are places you must see: Wholey Market is definitely one. This market is amazing; selling every kind of fish and seafood you can think of, the main attraction is their aquariums of live fish located in the back of the store; crowds gather around as customers make their selections. Whole, filleted, fresh or frozen, it’s here. The place is huge, meander around from section to section; meats, poultry, deli, fudge and groceries; they are celebrating 100 years in the business this year! Baked goods are available for sale out front as a man sings and entertains market-goers, it’s an experience in itself. The street is lined with sidewalk merchants selling everything from imported clothing, shoes and jewelry to Steelers wear. The buildings are left over from the glory days; signs are still hand-lettered, second and third generations shop in the same shops their grandparents did. The Pennsylvania Macaroni Company has been around since 1902, definitely stop in. The aroma of food has been penetrating these walls for over a hundred years; salami, capicola, fresh mozzarella, Parmesan, at least 20 varieties of olive oil and more shapes of pasta than I’ve ever seen! There are non-food shops here too; home decor, antiques, cigars, pottery and kitchen ware.

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We were starving, time for lunch! We already knew where we were going to eat since we decided to come to the city; The Enrico Biscotti Co. Biscotti? you say? Well, sort of….The Enrico Biscotti Co. began as a bakery specializing in traditional Italian pastries; all made on site, by hand. A few years ago they opened a small cafe that adjoins the bakery, the food is outstanding. You enter the cafe from an alley sidewalk, tiny tables line the walk. We stepped inside the door, the restaurant was filled to capacity, we asked to sit outdoors and were told to sit anywhere we wanted. The menu is concise; Beans and Greens, brick oven pizzas, sandwich, salad and soup. The food is simple food, deliciously prepared. We ordered the Sanga Weech of the day; their tender, flavorful pizza crust serves as the bread, a selection of meat, cheese and veggies make up the filling, yum! The Big Fat Salad of the day had granny smith apples, toasted pecans and chevre, house made balsamic vinaigrette topped it off, everything here is tasty! You can have your dessert in the cafe, but we preferred to walk the few steps to the bakery itself and see the offerings with our own eyes. As you have gathered by the name, the house specialty is the biscotti; this is not your ordinary biscotti. Loaves of dough are made with real butter and flavorful ingredients, then cut into wedges and baked; the selection is endless. The Macaroons are fantastic, oversized and dunked in chocolate they are always a good choice. Truthfully, I’ve never gotten anything here that I didn’t like. Today Kris found the pecan bars irresistible, we got one to go and walked over to La Prima for a couple of iced coffees. On the way back to the car we noticed the doors to St Stanislaus Kostka Church were open, so we took a peek inside, just gorgeous!

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Time to check in at our hotel. The Priory, located in the North Shore district, is a historic boutique hotel. Built in 1888 this Inn is fantastic a wonderful blend of new and old; originally St Mary’s Church and Priory the buildings now function as a hotel and event space. Desk clerks are helpful, warm and friendly; if you have questions about the building or the city, they have the answers. A recent addition makes the total number of rooms 42, an elevator was also installed, which makes getting luggage up to the third floor a snap! We stayed in the new section this time; the attention to detail is incredible, you’d never know this wasn’t part of the original building. Also new in 2011 is the Monk’s Bar; located on the main floor in the original building this mini bar is quite charming. After getting situated in our room we stopped in for a cocktail then retreated to the lovely outdoor courtyard to relax and sip our drinks. The former St Mary’s church is now known as The Grand Hall, tonight it was rented out for a wedding; guests are free to use the courtyard as well. We strolled over to the hall to have a look, absolutely stunning from the church to the decorations it would be hard to find a prettier place for a wedding.

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We already had plans for the evening; it was no coincidence we found ourselves in Pittsburgh the same weekend as the Detroit Derby Girls, we try to get to one out of town bout a season. It was about a 20 minute drive to Glenshaw and the Romp n’ Roll roller rink; the girls were warming up when we arrived. We sat in the front row ready to cheer our teams on. The first bout was Steel City’s B Unit versus the Motor City Disassembly Line; the bout was fast paced and exciting, even more exciting for us because Detroit won! The second bout featured Steel Hurtin’ versus The Detroit Derby Girls; unfortunately it was not the Derby Girls night and Pittsburgh prevailed, the home town fans were ecstatic! We’ll get ‘em next time …

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The evening had flown by and we had yet to have dinner, we were hoping we could find something open late. Taking the first bridge we saw crossing the Allegheny we ended up on Butler St in the up and coming city of Lawrenceville. The street is packed with bars, sidewalk cafes and restaurants, many of which were still open. Alchemy N Ale looked interesting, the sign called it a Gastro-Pub and we could get seated immediately. Contemporary in design, the menu features a large selection of appetizers, salads, sandwiches and a few entrees. We picked the shrimp tacos and a burger and split both. The food arrived without delay; there were three shrimp tacos each featuring a different sauce, we like all of them. The burger came on a kaiser roll with blue cheese, crispy bacon, a port glaze and sweet onion marmalade, very nice. We were so hungry the food disappeared quickly.

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No visit to Pittsburgh is complete without driving up to Mt Washington; there isn’t a better view of the city. The area is always busy with tourists trying to get that perfect shot. Night time is especially beautiful with all the lights of the city and bridges.  Once at the top there are several overlooks to choose from; we stopped at all of them. You feel as if you could just stand here looking out with complete disregard to time. For us it was time to get back to our room and rested up, there is so much to do tomorrow!

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